Hello everyone and thank you for watching and please SUBSCRIBE! Here’s the DTC’s that the test mode is capable of showing: 9202 Fuel sender open circuit 9204 Fuel sender short to ground 9213 Anti-theft number of programmed keys is below minimum A103 or 9232 Antenna not connected-defective transceiver 9317 Battery Voltage high 9318 Battery voltage low 9342 ECU is defective 9356 Ignition run circuit open 9364 Ignition Start circuit open 9600 PATS Ignition Key Transponder Signal is Not Received - Damaged Key or non-PATSKey 9601 PATSReceived Incorrect Key-Code from Ignition Key Transponder (unprogrammed Encoded Ignition Key) 9602 PATS Received Invalid Format of Key - Code From Ignition Key Transponder (Partial Key Code) 9681 PATSTranceiver Signal is Not Received (Not Connected, Damaged, or Wiring) A139 PCM ID does not match between Instrument Cluster and PCM A141 NVM Configuration Failure (No PCM ID exchange between Instrument Cluster and PCM) A143 NVM memory failure 5284 Oil Pressure Switch Failu re D027 SCP Invalid or Missing Data for Engine RPM D041 SCP Invalid or missing data for Vehicle Speed D043 SCP Invalid or missing data for Traction Control D073 SCP Invalid or missing data for engine coolant D123 SCP Invalid or missing data for Odometer D147 SCP Invalid or missing data for vehicle security D262 Missing SCP message. Thank you...
EST TEST Initial entry display into self-test mode. SWEEP GAUGES SWEEP GAUGES Carries out the gauge sweep of all the gauges, then displays the present gauge values. Also carries out the checksum test on the ROM and EEPROM. All segments illuminated All segments illuminated Illuminates all integrated circuit/message center segments. BULB TEST TELLTALES Illuminates all micro-controlled lamps and LEDs. ####-10849-## PART NUMBER, ####-10849-## Displays the alpha-numeric part number. #### - Suffix (last 2 digits of the part number are displayed as a 2 byte hexadecimal number). ###### SERIAL NUMBER ###### Displays the serial number in decimal. IGN # IGNITION KEY, # Displays the key-in-ignition status. ROM #### ROM LEVEL ####, CHKSUM #### Returns to normal operation of all micro-controlled lamps and LEDs and displays hexadecimal value for read-only memory (ROM) level. ROM #### - Displays the hexadecimal ROM level as stored in the nonvolatile memory (NVM). NVM #### mmmm NVM ##, CHKSUM #### The message center displays #### representing hexadecimal NVM level and mmmm representing ROM level as stored in NVM. The base cluster displays #### representing hexadecimal ROM level as stored in NVM. DATE #### FINAL DATE, #### Displays the hexadecimal coding of the final manufacturing test date. CONFIG1-CONFIG5 ## MODULE CONFIG, BYTE1-BYTE5= ## Displays the hexadecimal of bytes 1-5 of the module configuration settings. DTC #### DIAG TROUBLE, CODE: #### Displays a 16-bit DTC in hexadecimal format. DTCs displayed are those detected in continuous operation, not during self-test. SPEED E ###.# VEHICLE SPEED, ###.# MPH Displays the English speed value being input. The speedometer indicates the present speed. SPEED M ###.# VEHICLE SPEED, ###.# KPH Displays the metric speed value being input. The speedometer indicates the present speed. TACH #### TACH VALUE, #### RPM Displays the tachometer value being input to the instrument cluster (IC). The tachometer indicates the present rpm. F A/D ### FUEL LEVEL A/D, ### Displays the present fuel level analog/digital ratio input in decimal. The instrument cluster (IC) indicates the present fuel level. FUEL P ### FUEL LEVEL %, ### Displays the present fuel level percent status in decimal. C TEMP ### COOLANT TEMP, ### Displays the last temperature gauge input value from SCP. The temperature gauge indicates the present temperature. ODO CAN ### ODO CAN INPUT, ### Displays the odometer input received through SCP in decimal. OIL ### OIL PRESSURE, ### Displays the last analog/digital reading of the engine oil pressure switch contact resistance. The oil gauge indicates the present level. BRAKE # BRAKE FLUID AD, # Displays the brake fluid level received from the ABS module. VOLTS ##.# BATTERY VOLTS, ##.# Displays the present SBATT reading in 10th of volt. DIM ### PWM DIM INPUT ### Displays the present rounded duty cycle (%PWM). PRNDL ## PRNDL ## Displays the hexadecimal value of PRNDL inputs packed into a single byte. PARK # PARK BRAKE, # Displays the input status of the park brake switch. DOOR # DOOR AJAR, # Displays the input status of any door ajar input. DOOR2 # JET DOOR AJAR, # Displays the input status of jet door ajar input. SEATBLT # SEATBELT # Displays the input status of safety belt switch. - RUN/START, # RUN/START sense circuit check. - RUN/ACC, # RUN/ACC sense circuit check. PA, Pb, PE, PG, PH, PP, PS, PT and PCAn ## PORT A, B, E, J, H, IB, P, S and T ## Displays an 8-bit hexadecimal value for the ports. AD00-AD07 ## PORT AD00-AD07 ## Displays an 8-bit hexadecimal value for the ports AD00-AD07 in analog/digital readings. AD10-AD17 ## AD10-AD17 ## Displays an 8-bit hexadecimal value for the ports AD10-AD17 in analog/digital readings.
Wow thanks for this! I cant believe that with all these countless Ford mechanics helping every one of us out here with there yt vids, I don't believe i have ever come across a video that exposes this awesome gem. Once again, thank you for taking the time in doing this video👏
OK... HERE WE GO! 1. Put the key in the ignition, but don't turn it. Push and hold the trip / reset counter button. Don't release it. 2. Next turn the key to the accessory on position. NOT starting your stang, but just to the first click. Leave the key there. 3. Look at your display while you are holding down the button. When you see it say "test" (like shown in the pic), then LET GO the button. You have only a few seconds to do this. 4. What will happen next is all your analog needles will "sweep" to their max positions and then drop back to normal. The digital readout will say "GAGE" like shown. 5. Push the button once and the next diagnostic is all the segments in the digital display will show up lit. Like the pic shows. 6. Push the button again and the readout will say "bulb" and light up all the bulbs like the batt, traction control and other cluster bulbs. Neat huh ?..  7. Push the button again and the ROM version is displayed. 8. Push the button again and you get the EE level. Part of the id. 9. Push it again and you see the hex value for the manufacturing test date. 10. Push it again and you will get any diagnistoc trouble codes or DTC's (if any). See table below for a list of codes. This code is for an oil pressure switch failure (example). 11. THE COOL PARTS START HERE. push it again and you will see "eng" followed by your speed in miles per hour. We were standing still but if we were moving, we could get a digital speedo reading in real time. 12. Push it again and you will see an "M" followed by your METRIC speed reading. 13. Push it again and you will see a "tac" followed by your tachometer numbers. All updated in real time. The engine was off here so it was 0000. CLICK HERE for a video 126k Mpeg of the digital tach in action. (recorded from our Mustangworld project 00 stang) 14. Push it again and you see your fuel level, see chart below for what the numbers mean. 15. Push it again and you see your oil pressure. The engine was off so ours read 255. 16. Push it again and you will see your engine temperature "deg" see chart below for what the numbers mean. 17. Push it again and the battery voltage input to your cluster is shown (current battery level) 0 - 255. See chart below for normal settings. 18. Push the button again for the RH codes (there are a few screens of them and they flash). 19. Eventually you will end up at the Cr code, this shows the current RUN/START here it shows "-h" meaning in the key was in the start position. 20. You will make it to the PE codes then back to the "GAGE" and the cycle starts all over again. TO EXIT the diagnostic mode, press and hold the trip meter for 5 seconds or until your odometer is displayed again. You can also just remove your key and it will return to normal. To see your digital speed / tach, etc.. as your stang drives All you do is once in this diagnostic test mode, simply start your stang and the display will revert to this mode again and you can scroll through until the digital speedo is showing and see your speed digitally.
So can see both ways, what about tach, I wonder if I can change my idling at all. Runs great, gave a tune-up years ago and I drove very slowly for good 100 miles and babied it so my mpg would increase, instead it seems to go down a bit and tach is idling up around 9 instead of 6.5 to 7 rpm's now, do 70 and tach is 2200, before was 2000 even, so other than tune-up with new coils because ones on was new 13 months old from Denco, better than Ford from the person I bought suv Explorer from, after 4 times of check engine light coming on on left side up front #5 I believe on Ford, and 6 to. He replaced both of them like 5 times of going back for check engine, said he never had that issue said they should be under warranty, just say your me and get new ones, I looked and 13 months old from place he bought from. He's a mechanic and side job's as one too plus pickups junk vehicles for free or as cheap as possible, takes good stuff off and puts in his storage in his garage. Gave me 2 of them, I'm like I don't need problems dropping son off 300 miles away at college. Only reason why I bought it, I trust you, we knew each other since 5 years old and kindergarten. Great friends, still have issues, I'm disabled and deal we made as he's old school like me, a handshake means your word. He went back and blew me off, he fixed the cluster. Had to call a Ford tech on this one, he States wasn't him, but he dropped a socket on his $5,000 snap-on tool to read out what's wrong and nothing. So he put on drivers floor, I'm like move that before you drop something on it, 5 minutes later, he dropped his socket attached to rachat to unbolt screws to get to cluster. It put a crack in it, he was surprised since it had gorilla glass protection on it. He installed auto Starr and wife drove it for 32,300 miles on Reman engine, lots of new parts put in, he traded some vehicles that needed coils on Fords from breaking and giving to him, company swamped a few cars over the suv that needed alot more work and time. Was worth $18,800 @ the time he made trade, even with blown engine, he paid taxes on that, it's how our state works, book value. I paid on $7,900 and paid $4,500 for it. It's what he had in it and drove it for 3 years, so got his money back from me. That had 164,400 at time, it has 199,550 roughly on it, since then, I put about $8,000 into it, I named it the money pit to him, I said to him if knew, I looked at the $1,800 in last 10 months you put into it. My 1st year was brakes because rotors were junk, not new like he said, pads were but 1/3 of pads touched rotors, that cost me an accident as brakes didn't stop me in time. I replaced 2 calipers also or he did and new brakes, he said take those back and say there junk, I'm like you do it, your name or I wouldn't bought $100 in pads if that's the case. Also ball joints needed badly. Great mechanic and was great friend. Wished he was still around. Thing rotted, water pump let go as he used many old parts on some stuff. Cheap part that cost me $35 some 7 years later. He has account to get big discounts and would of cost back then, about $15 max. Easy swap. 2 exhaust systems from Walker, there cheap but don't last with this 10% Ethanol in gas. Cluster goes out, next thing you don't have radio or interior lights. All it is, the Cluster only, just take apart, UNPLUG THE CLUSTER AND PLUG BACK IN, THEN AWD WILL WORK WITH RADIO AND LIGHTS AND HEAT TO, ALSO THE SPEEDO WITH TACH TO. The lock clip is broken off, every now and then since, it unplug just a bit. It wiggles out just enough to stop alot of things not working at all over a plug, that auto start he installed, the wire goes to ignition switch area and has no choice to snake wire to it. Takes about 45 minutes even if you don't know, look at RUclips video on how to remove Cluster. It's very easy. Don't take all the way out. One wire that is like a cable for speedo I think. It's easy if you have some mechanical stuff you can do. Hardest part is unplugging headlight switch. I've done it 4 times after he done once. On his snap-on tool, I said don't take apart, can't replace screen, they have to, he's like it's just glass, I said no, it's touchscreen, they can sell me the part, no they can't. I fixed a few free TVs and got some with cracks I called manufacturers on it like LG I have a 35 day old TV that some guy sold to me that cost him $2,100 plus taxes on sale, son through a toy at the screen and cracked. Was $1,500 if LG can get one but won't sell to me, they have to fix it. I said nobthanks, I'll sell the parts inside with remotes, came with 4 of them, made almost $300 off boards and remotes with shipping. My 1st TV, power supply wasn't working, cost me $59.95 plus taxes and free shipping. Still have it. Could of replaced the parts that let go on board, need special tools to test and tell, might of cost just $0.10 or $10 only
4l34 10849 oco2 is the casting number for the instrument cluster in that truck. That way the technician could retrieve the part number for the cluster without pulling it out if they needed to order one, or if original part number needed for some reason or another.
1. The 4L34 10849 is the part number for the cluster 2. Second set of numbers is the calibration 3. Ign b is the position the is the position of the key in the ignition 4. Dtcs shown are cluster related, will show dtcs if there is faults within the gauge cluster not the pcm (engine computer)
To turn off your Alert for your seatbelt all you need to do is turn ignition switch on until lights go out, after they’re out insert seat belt in and out 3 times as fast as you can and it will turn off that annoying alert, that can be done for Both Sides but one seat at a time. I haven’t heard my alert in 4 years now! I love that, I can’t wear my seatbelt because of multiple surgeries and that dinging sound drives me crazy! So turn ignition on until lights go out and plug that seatbelt in and out 3 x fast, you only have 5 seconds to do it so quickly as possible, NOT RUNNING!! Just turn your ignition on. After doing it start truck and drive around block to make sure you got it. Good luck.
Thanks you for sharing this had a 99 and just bought a 2002 this info is vey helpful. Being a female I try to do a lot of my easy work myself to avoid being ripped off. Thanks again for sharing
There's also a Flux Capacitor if you know how to access it, I travel back to the 80s now and then, especially if I'm being pulled over I'm Outta-Time.......
GK7 DIY Great tip for Ford owners! Thanks. One of the comments on your page listed the steps for doing this. I took your list and added the comments to put them on a page that I put in a notebook for my truck.
I've had my '07 F150 for years and I never knew this, amazing! Thanks alot man, you have no idea how bad I've wanted a tach! Best video I've seen in awhile. Subbed!
I know this is old video, but just in case , I have a 93 f150 4x4 it started as an automatic and was changed to a 5 speed Manuel at some point before I got it. It had no tach on the dash, I took the instrument cluster from a 96 that had the tach and it was plug and play, you can even keep your own odometer if you want as Ford instrument clusters are module based , in the 92 Thur 96 range you can just switch out individual gauges and get what you want. You might have to switch the whole cluster for your year , but they are normally super easy to switch and takes 15 minutes or less to do. The ease of it is why I figured I would mention it and you could check out the procedure for your year modLE. if your like me, you don’t ever give up your Ford truck ,unless it’s for a different Ford truck, lol. Hope this was relevant.
In the 92 through 96 years you can even reprogram your speedometer for what ever tire size you wish to run. The module will allow you to change its calibration to a different 6 times and then it shuts u out, so you are stuck with that 6th calibration.
Older Trucks can do something similar. I have a 92 F-150 with the digital ODO and you can access a similar feature. If this feature is like it is on my truck. The numbers that pop up after the test sequences are to program the computer to calibrate for tire size. That code is the code needed for the size tire that was/is on the truck to accuratly display MPH.
I’ve had my ‘21 for a little over a year now and never tried this but had it in the shop 4x. This may actually help me so thank you, whether it works or not!!
Thanks alot. helped me check the driver seat buckle would at times think the seatbelt not buckled even though it is, which would cause the belt alarm to go off.
Very good video. As one who bleeds Ford Blue, and a prior Ford LM Salesman, I didn't even know this feature existed. And no, I was not the type of sales rep that we hear all the negative comments about. In fact, I got on the bad side a GM or two because I refused to lie about car deals. Getting back to the Test Feature, if one really wanted to know what all the codes represent, stop by a Ford Service Department and ask the advisor to tell ya. If the advisor can't/won't, hang around and ask a tech when they go on break or getting off work. Oftentimes, all ya have to do, write your email addy on a piece of paper, tell the tech what you're wanting, let em know you're not wanting to delay them, and ask if they wouldn't mind sending you the info when they have time. If they're agreeable, give em your email addy. I'm pretty certain you'll hear back with the Test Code breakdown. Tks again. Appreciate you taking the time to let folks know about this Feature.
The dtc codes feature is really helpful. I had to take my explorer to autozone several times before I knew this. Older jeeps and chrysler products have a similar feature where you turn the ignition switch 3 times.
My Exploder is manufactured 04/01 2001 XLT and my oil trip to lmk when it's due for my Next change in I found it and it says OFF... IDK HOW TO TURN IT ON IF I CAN. ANY ADVICE REALLY APPRECIATED THANKS & ADVANCE
Everyone talking about how cool it is to have all these different readings, which is cool, but honestly Sweeping the Gauges like a sports car?! Definitely gotta try lmao 😂😂😂😂
Your scan tool is more valuable than that little read out , that is if your scanner can do a running view of your engine and recording it, imagine trying too look at that little screen while driving? Lol
1st I've heard of this and I just tried it on 2006 F150 5.4 and it works! Going to do some more research on what each step means and how to make changes. Example seatbelt said "G" and I clicked driver side in and it went to "B" I plugged passenger belt in and it didnt change, unbuckled both and it didnt change, buckled driver back in and it didnt change. I hope I just did a magic trick to shut up the seatbelt "DING" cause I've tried everything else even splicing the wires to make it think it's always buckled in, that didnt work either. Thanks for this info!
hmmm i have a '96 ranger. i reasoned that the circuit that controls the audible alarm includes a normally Open momentary switch; built into the seat. sitting on the seat Closes the switch. by disconnecting the switch (wires beneath the driver's seat), the circuit is Never closed. googletranslate
Brad Suarez I would still keep the scan tool. The DTCs don’t pick up all of the MIL codes. I have a ‘13 F-150 and use the Engineering Mode occasionally. The DTC for a P0151 error doesn’t show anything.
I didnt know fords had this feature but dodge amd older obd1 vehicles along with lawnmowers and small engines with check engine lights you can turn the key on and off 5 or 8 times in a row (differs between vehicles) and get check engine light codes. The ones without a digital display flashes a 2 digit code in which you count the flashes then theres a pause and another set of flashes to count and that gives the code its throwing. For the door amd seatbelt throwing a ~~G i believe that means open ground for anyone doing future repairs. Most switches are activated by ground instead of hot on fords meaning the seatbelt lights stay on because its causing a open circuit when not buckled, then when you buckle the seatbelt it completes the ground circuit. You can also just click the seatbelt buckle button to get the chime and light to go away on most fords
In the 92 through 96 years of f-150 4x4’s you can reprogram the speedometer and change the calibration to whatever tire size your running. It only allows you to change it 6 times though, so your stuck with the last one. It’s pretty simple , a search on RUclips brings up the procedure, anyone could do it, it’s also super easy to change your instrument cluster around or even just switch it out. 15 minutes or less for most of it. Hope this is relevant to someone, I still have my 93 , my tach came from a 96, lol.
Hello everyone and thank you for watching and please SUBSCRIBE!
Here’s the DTC’s that the test mode is capable of showing:
9202 Fuel sender open circuit
9204 Fuel sender short to ground
9213 Anti-theft number of programmed keys is below minimum
A103 or 9232 Antenna not connected-defective transceiver
9317 Battery Voltage high
9318 Battery voltage low
9342 ECU is defective
9356 Ignition run circuit open
9364 Ignition Start circuit open
9600 PATS Ignition Key Transponder Signal is Not Received - Damaged Key or non-PATSKey
9601 PATSReceived Incorrect Key-Code from Ignition Key Transponder (unprogrammed Encoded Ignition Key)
9602 PATS Received Invalid Format of Key - Code From Ignition Key Transponder (Partial Key Code)
9681 PATSTranceiver Signal is Not Received (Not Connected, Damaged, or Wiring)
A139 PCM ID does not match between Instrument Cluster and PCM
A141 NVM Configuration Failure (No PCM ID exchange between Instrument Cluster and PCM)
A143 NVM memory failure
5284 Oil Pressure Switch Failu re
D027 SCP Invalid or Missing Data for Engine RPM
D041 SCP Invalid or missing data for Vehicle Speed
D043 SCP Invalid or missing data for Traction Control
D073 SCP Invalid or missing data for engine coolant
D123 SCP Invalid or missing data for Odometer
D147 SCP Invalid or missing data for vehicle security
D262 Missing SCP message.
Thank you...
Fuel P is for sending unit I have 150 about half a tank. So 40 u have less than a 1/4 tank of gas
So u press how many times or to what n then on position
EST TEST Initial entry display into self-test mode.
SWEEP GAUGES SWEEP GAUGES Carries out the gauge sweep of all the gauges, then displays the present gauge values. Also carries out the checksum test on the ROM and EEPROM.
All segments illuminated All segments illuminated Illuminates all integrated circuit/message center segments.
BULB TEST TELLTALES Illuminates all micro-controlled lamps and LEDs.
####-10849-## PART NUMBER, ####-10849-## Displays the alpha-numeric part number.
#### - Suffix (last 2 digits of the part number are displayed as a 2 byte hexadecimal number).
###### SERIAL NUMBER ###### Displays the serial number in decimal.
IGN # IGNITION KEY, # Displays the key-in-ignition status.
ROM #### ROM LEVEL ####, CHKSUM #### Returns to normal operation of all micro-controlled lamps and LEDs and displays hexadecimal value for read-only memory (ROM) level.
ROM #### - Displays the hexadecimal ROM level as stored in the nonvolatile memory (NVM).
NVM #### mmmm NVM ##, CHKSUM #### The message center displays #### representing hexadecimal NVM level and mmmm representing ROM level as stored in NVM. The base cluster displays #### representing hexadecimal ROM level as stored in NVM.
DATE #### FINAL DATE, #### Displays the hexadecimal coding of the final manufacturing test date.
CONFIG1-CONFIG5 ## MODULE CONFIG, BYTE1-BYTE5= ## Displays the hexadecimal of bytes 1-5 of the module configuration settings.
DTC #### DIAG TROUBLE, CODE: #### Displays a 16-bit DTC in hexadecimal format. DTCs displayed are those detected in continuous operation, not during self-test.
SPEED E ###.# VEHICLE SPEED, ###.# MPH Displays the English speed value being input. The speedometer indicates the present speed.
SPEED M ###.# VEHICLE SPEED, ###.# KPH Displays the metric speed value being input. The speedometer indicates the present speed.
TACH #### TACH VALUE, #### RPM Displays the tachometer value being input to the instrument cluster (IC). The tachometer indicates the present rpm.
F A/D ### FUEL LEVEL A/D, ### Displays the present fuel level analog/digital ratio input in decimal. The instrument cluster (IC) indicates the present fuel level.
FUEL P ### FUEL LEVEL %, ### Displays the present fuel level percent status in decimal.
C TEMP ### COOLANT TEMP, ### Displays the last temperature gauge input value from SCP. The temperature gauge indicates the present temperature.
ODO CAN ### ODO CAN INPUT, ### Displays the odometer input received through SCP in decimal.
OIL ### OIL PRESSURE, ### Displays the last analog/digital reading of the engine oil pressure switch contact resistance. The oil gauge indicates the present level.
BRAKE # BRAKE FLUID AD, # Displays the brake fluid level received from the ABS module.
VOLTS ##.# BATTERY VOLTS, ##.# Displays the present SBATT reading in 10th of volt.
DIM ### PWM DIM INPUT ### Displays the present rounded duty cycle (%PWM).
PRNDL ## PRNDL ## Displays the hexadecimal value of PRNDL inputs packed into a single byte.
PARK # PARK BRAKE, # Displays the input status of the park brake switch.
DOOR # DOOR AJAR, # Displays the input status of any door ajar input.
DOOR2 # JET DOOR AJAR, # Displays the input status of jet door ajar input.
SEATBLT # SEATBELT # Displays the input status of safety belt switch.
- RUN/START, # RUN/START sense circuit check.
- RUN/ACC, # RUN/ACC sense circuit check.
PA, Pb, PE, PG, PH, PP, PS, PT and PCAn ## PORT A, B, E, J, H, IB, P, S and T ## Displays an 8-bit hexadecimal value for the ports.
AD00-AD07 ## PORT AD00-AD07 ## Displays an 8-bit hexadecimal value for the ports AD00-AD07 in analog/digital readings.
AD10-AD17 ## AD10-AD17 ## Displays an 8-bit hexadecimal value for the ports AD10-AD17 in analog/digital readings.
@@LLeonha104 🤯🤯🤯 Wow that's a lot of information to take in!!!🤤 lol
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Hey Man: I'm a ford truck owner and I never knew this feature was in it. A big thank you Brother!
You’re absolutely welcome
Wow thanks for this! I cant believe that with all these countless Ford mechanics helping every one of us out here with there yt vids, I don't believe i have ever come across a video that exposes this awesome gem. Once again, thank you for taking the time in doing this video👏
Thank you
OK... HERE WE GO!
1. Put the key in the ignition, but don't turn it. Push and hold the trip / reset counter button. Don't release it.
2. Next turn the key to the accessory on position. NOT starting your stang, but just to the first click. Leave the key there.
3. Look at your display while you are holding down the button. When you see it say "test" (like shown in the pic), then LET GO the button. You have only a few seconds to do this.
4. What will happen next is all your analog needles will "sweep" to their max positions and then drop back to normal. The digital readout will say "GAGE" like shown.
5. Push the button once and the next diagnostic is all the segments in the digital display will show up lit. Like the pic shows.
6. Push the button again and the readout will say "bulb" and light up all the bulbs like the batt, traction control and other cluster bulbs.
Neat huh ?.. 
7. Push the button again and the ROM version is displayed.
8. Push the button again and you get the EE level. Part of the id.
9. Push it again and you see the hex value for the manufacturing test date.
10. Push it again and you will get any diagnistoc trouble codes or DTC's (if any). See table below for a list of codes. This code is for an oil pressure switch failure (example).
11. THE COOL PARTS START HERE. push it again and you will see "eng" followed by your speed in miles per hour. We were standing still but if we were moving, we could get a digital speedo reading in real time.
12. Push it again and you will see an "M" followed by your METRIC speed reading.
13. Push it again and you will see a "tac" followed by your tachometer numbers. All updated in real time. The engine was off here so it was 0000. CLICK HERE for a video 126k Mpeg of the digital tach in action. (recorded from our Mustangworld project 00 stang)
14. Push it again and you see your fuel level, see chart below for what the numbers mean.
15. Push it again and you see your oil pressure. The engine was off so ours read 255.
16. Push it again and you will see your engine temperature "deg" see chart below for what the numbers mean.
17. Push it again and the battery voltage input to your cluster is shown (current battery level) 0 - 255. See chart below for normal settings.
18. Push the button again for the RH codes (there are a few screens of them and they flash).
19. Eventually you will end up at the Cr code, this shows the current RUN/START here it shows "-h" meaning in the key was in the start position.
20. You will make it to the PE codes then back to the "GAGE" and the cycle starts all over again. TO EXIT the diagnostic mode, press and hold the trip meter for 5 seconds or until your odometer is displayed again. You can also just remove your key and it will return to normal.
To see your digital speed / tach, etc.. as your stang drives
All you do is once in this diagnostic test mode, simply start your stang and the display will revert to this mode again and you can scroll through until the digital speedo is showing and see your speed digitally.
So can see both ways, what about tach, I wonder if I can change my idling at all. Runs great, gave a tune-up years ago and I drove very slowly for good 100 miles and babied it so my mpg would increase, instead it seems to go down a bit and tach is idling up around 9 instead of 6.5 to 7 rpm's now, do 70 and tach is 2200, before was 2000 even, so other than tune-up with new coils because ones on was new 13 months old from Denco, better than Ford from the person I bought suv Explorer from, after 4 times of check engine light coming on on left side up front #5 I believe on Ford, and 6 to. He replaced both of them like 5 times of going back for check engine, said he never had that issue said they should be under warranty, just say your me and get new ones, I looked and 13 months old from place he bought from. He's a mechanic and side job's as one too plus pickups junk vehicles for free or as cheap as possible, takes good stuff off and puts in his storage in his garage. Gave me 2 of them, I'm like I don't need problems dropping son off 300 miles away at college. Only reason why I bought it, I trust you, we knew each other since 5 years old and kindergarten. Great friends, still have issues, I'm disabled and deal we made as he's old school like me, a handshake means your word. He went back and blew me off, he fixed the cluster. Had to call a Ford tech on this one, he States wasn't him, but he dropped a socket on his $5,000 snap-on tool to read out what's wrong and nothing. So he put on drivers floor, I'm like move that before you drop something on it, 5 minutes later, he dropped his socket attached to rachat to unbolt screws to get to cluster. It put a crack in it, he was surprised since it had gorilla glass protection on it. He installed auto Starr and wife drove it for 32,300 miles on Reman engine, lots of new parts put in, he traded some vehicles that needed coils on Fords from breaking and giving to him, company swamped a few cars over the suv that needed alot more work and time. Was worth $18,800 @ the time he made trade, even with blown engine, he paid taxes on that, it's how our state works, book value. I paid on $7,900 and paid $4,500 for it. It's what he had in it and drove it for 3 years, so got his money back from me. That had 164,400 at time, it has 199,550 roughly on it, since then, I put about $8,000 into it, I named it the money pit to him, I said to him if knew, I looked at the $1,800 in last 10 months you put into it. My 1st year was brakes because rotors were junk, not new like he said, pads were but 1/3 of pads touched rotors, that cost me an accident as brakes didn't stop me in time. I replaced 2 calipers also or he did and new brakes, he said take those back and say there junk, I'm like you do it, your name or I wouldn't bought $100 in pads if that's the case. Also ball joints needed badly. Great mechanic and was great friend. Wished he was still around. Thing rotted, water pump let go as he used many old parts on some stuff. Cheap part that cost me $35 some 7 years later. He has account to get big discounts and would of cost back then, about $15 max. Easy swap. 2 exhaust systems from Walker, there cheap but don't last with this 10% Ethanol in gas. Cluster goes out, next thing you don't have radio or interior lights. All it is, the Cluster only, just take apart, UNPLUG THE CLUSTER AND PLUG BACK IN, THEN AWD WILL WORK WITH RADIO AND LIGHTS AND HEAT TO, ALSO THE SPEEDO WITH TACH TO. The lock clip is broken off, every now and then since, it unplug just a bit. It wiggles out just enough to stop alot of things not working at all over a plug, that auto start he installed, the wire goes to ignition switch area and has no choice to snake wire to it. Takes about 45 minutes even if you don't know, look at RUclips video on how to remove Cluster. It's very easy. Don't take all the way out. One wire that is like a cable for speedo I think. It's easy if you have some mechanical stuff you can do. Hardest part is unplugging headlight switch. I've done it 4 times after he done once. On his snap-on tool, I said don't take apart, can't replace screen, they have to, he's like it's just glass, I said no, it's touchscreen, they can sell me the part, no they can't. I fixed a few free TVs and got some with cracks I called manufacturers on it like LG I have a 35 day old TV that some guy sold to me that cost him $2,100 plus taxes on sale, son through a toy at the screen and cracked. Was $1,500 if LG can get one but won't sell to me, they have to fix it. I said nobthanks, I'll sell the parts inside with remotes, came with 4 of them, made almost $300 off boards and remotes with shipping. My 1st TV, power supply wasn't working, cost me $59.95 plus taxes and free shipping. Still have it. Could of replaced the parts that let go on board, need special tools to test and tell, might of cost just $0.10 or $10 only
Wtf
Does not work for f250 Superduty just tried. There is a test system button but it doesn’t do those features 😊
Sweet. Just bought a 2004 F 150 4X4 and I had no idea this little feature was there. Gonna try it tomorrow, thanks
same bro!
oil press read 0 on mine 04 5.4. while running. Ford didn't want people to know evidently by not programming that in.
Careful with the truck man, 04 are known to have the worst engine in any truck
4l34 10849 oco2 is the casting number for the instrument cluster in that truck. That way the technician could retrieve the part number for the cluster without pulling it out if they needed to order one, or if original part number needed for some reason or another.
1. The 4L34 10849 is the part number for the cluster
2. Second set of numbers is the calibration
3. Ign b is the position the is the position of the key in the ignition
4. Dtcs shown are cluster related, will show dtcs if there is faults within the gauge cluster not the pcm (engine computer)
Everyone gonna think its for the pcm and not read your post. And most cars show some type info or rest by holding in the odometer reset button.
✔️
Thank you for explaining it correctly
Great tip!! Thanks for taking the time to share this tip!! Will put this to use!!
I've owned my truck for like right years and NEVER knew this. Greatly appreciated good sr!!!
Huh?
@@OptimusPrime12190 Eight years
2 years later and this was cool to learn. Much thanks.
I've had my '03 Expedition since 2006 and did not know this. Thanks.
Yes that was excellent news. Thanks for the information. Working on a 2007 f-150 xl 4.2 with the manual transmission.
To turn off your Alert for your seatbelt all you need to do is turn ignition switch on until lights go out, after they’re out insert seat belt in and out 3 times as fast as you can and it will turn off that annoying alert, that can be done for Both Sides but one seat at a time. I haven’t heard my alert in 4 years now! I love that, I can’t wear my seatbelt because of multiple surgeries and that dinging sound drives me crazy! So turn ignition on until lights go out and plug that seatbelt in and out 3 x fast, you only have 5 seconds to do it so quickly as possible, NOT RUNNING!! Just turn your ignition on. After doing it start truck and drive around block to make sure you got it. Good luck.
just bought an 01 f150, this will save me some trouble and time in the future. thanks
glad it helps
I have an 03, does it work?
Thank you for this video. My 2003 f350 has a code and this has helped find my problem!! Didn’t know about this test so thank you again!!!
Big help! Thank you!
DANG SON!! GREAT INSIGHT!!! THANKS!!
Very cool, I've been driving these since 2007 and never new that. Thanks for sharing!
You’re absolutely welcome
As a Ford guy all my life...I didn't know this. Thank you! I'll go check my 150 and the wife's focus and my sons mustang in 5 minutes. Thanks again!
⁰⁰L
I'm VERY IMPRESSED. Cool. Find!
Thanks you for sharing this had a 99 and just bought a 2002 this info is vey helpful. Being a female I try to do a lot of my easy work myself to avoid being ripped off. Thanks again for sharing
There's also a Flux Capacitor if you know how to access it, I travel back to the 80s now and then, especially if I'm being pulled over I'm Outta-Time.......
😂🤣😂👍🏾
M
.
What model of Flux Capacitor do you have? Mine only allows me to travel to odd years not even years. 😅
Marty is that you?
Great to know I bought a truck that I can go back in time now
I'll def be trying this specially for the oil pressure if it actually gives a real psi number that's worth gold in our trucks with the 5.4L 3v
Yes glad it helps
Dude I have a 2004 ford with the 5.4 and yeah you are right
This is so awesome. Thank you for the information.
GK7 DIY Great tip for Ford owners! Thanks. One of the comments on your page listed the steps for doing this. I took your list and added the comments to put them on a page that I put in a notebook for my truck.
And they say FORD is a bad product. Tsk.
Awesome video I appreciate it!
Good Find, I will have to check mine tomorrow
Good job bro, I didn’t know about this and I’ve had my expedition for 20 years😂
Good stuff
I've had my '07 F150 for years and I never knew this, amazing!
Thanks alot man, you have no idea how bad I've wanted a tach!
Best video I've seen in awhile. Subbed!
Thank you, glad it helped!
I know this is old video, but just in case , I have a 93 f150 4x4 it started as an automatic and was changed to a 5 speed Manuel at some point before I got it. It had no tach on the dash, I took the instrument cluster from a 96 that had the tach and it was plug and play, you can even keep your own odometer if you want as Ford instrument clusters are module based , in the 92 Thur 96 range you can just switch out individual gauges and get what you want. You might have to switch the whole cluster for your year , but they are normally super easy to switch and takes 15 minutes or less to do. The ease of it is why I figured I would mention it and you could check out the procedure for your year modLE. if your like me, you don’t ever give up your Ford truck ,unless it’s for a different Ford truck, lol. Hope this was relevant.
In the 92 through 96 years you can even reprogram your speedometer for what ever tire size you wish to run. The module will allow you to change its calibration to a different 6 times and then it shuts u out, so you are stuck with that 6th calibration.
Thank you...really informative
I just came across your channel. Thx for the info i just got an 05. I didn't know about this option.
Absolutely Feckin Awesome I put that cluster in my 93 250
I wish I would have seen this video right after you posted it. IT is extremEly useful to me with my motorhome on a Ford e450 CHASSIS.
Great video bro!
thanks man good post 👍
I'm going to buy a 2005 F150 later today, I'll be checking for codes. Thanks to this video!
Thanks buddy I had no idea.thats something I do often an never wanted to buy a scanner so now I can do it myself
Awesome, glad it helps
Just bought a 400 dollar scanner and it was built on the whole time🤦♀️
Thanks very helpful I have a 05 f150 and my wife a 2010 explorer this will help me very much
Definitely a Thumbs-up ! Amazing good find !
Older Trucks can do something similar. I have a 92 F-150 with the digital ODO and you can access a similar feature. If this feature is like it is on my truck. The numbers that pop up after the test sequences are to program the computer to calibrate for tire size. That code is the code needed for the size tire that was/is on the truck to accuratly display MPH.
Very helpful,thank you
Great video! I have a 2007 and didn’t know about feature. Thanks buddy !
Thanks man.i just got a high miles 06 f150 and this is a helpful self diagnosis and sensor awareness option that I didn't even know about.
Thanks alot. I knew there was a way to check other systems out on the f150. But this did it for me. Thanks.
Love that my 2007 ford expedition has this feature i love using the battery display helps having a subwoofer setup 👍👍👍
Tried it on my 2006 explorer and works great... Got fuel pressure oil pressure readings and more they are spot on no issues
Thanks for sharing
Isn't oil pressure a simple on/off type switch? The gauge just reads if there is pressure not amount of pressure
Tremendous THANK YOU I didn't know all this
Awesome. Thank you sir!
What a great helpful video. I just subbed .
Thank you very cool !
Just tried this on my 2007 explorer and it works!
I had this on my 1988 Chevy s10. I think ? Good video. Thanks.
I’ve had my ‘21 for a little over a year now and never tried this but had it in the shop 4x. This may actually help me so thank you, whether it works or not!!
Thank you man that help me. Alot
And knowing is half the battle 🇺🇲 , thanks for sharing , had no idea about this
Dude thank you. This is awesome didn't know this, really excited to get out there and try this out. Your the man.
Thank you
Thanks alot. helped me check the driver seat buckle would at times think the seatbelt not buckled even though it is, which would cause the belt alarm to go off.
Hey that's pretty cool buddy specially if you can read the codes I kind of like that one !!
Yes it does, thanks
Great info, thanks bro.
Great videos
THANK YOU!
i legit just went to grab a scanner today cause i just baught an 05 f150 and now all i needed was this
Pretty cool never knew about this, don’t know if it’s majorly helpful to me but it is pretty cool to have those features that I didn’t know about.
Way to go man. Who freaking knew about this?
Thanks buddy
Very good video. As one who bleeds Ford Blue, and a prior Ford LM Salesman, I didn't even know this feature existed.
And no, I was not the type of sales rep that we hear all the negative comments about. In fact, I got on the bad side a GM or two because I refused to lie about car deals.
Getting back to the Test Feature, if one really wanted to know what all the codes represent, stop by a Ford Service Department and ask the advisor to tell ya. If the advisor can't/won't, hang around and ask a tech when they go on break or getting off work. Oftentimes, all ya have to do, write your email addy on a piece of paper, tell the tech what you're wanting, let em know you're not wanting to delay them, and ask if they wouldn't mind sending you the info when they have time. If they're agreeable, give em your email addy. I'm pretty certain you'll hear back with the Test Code breakdown.
Tks again. Appreciate you taking the time to let folks know about this Feature.
Excellent video! Curious if this works for later years? If not can you point me in the direction for an 09 F150 King Ranch? Thanks again.
The dtc codes feature is really helpful. I had to take my explorer to autozone several times before I knew this. Older jeeps and chrysler products have a similar feature where you turn the ignition switch 3 times.
Yes, it’s very helpful. Thanks
My Exploder is manufactured 04/01 2001 XLT and my oil trip to lmk when it's due for my Next change in I found it and it says OFF... IDK HOW TO TURN IT ON IF I CAN. ANY ADVICE REALLY APPRECIATED THANKS & ADVANCE
Thanks for sharing, great video, nice to know you can pull up DTCs
Yes, great feature
Awesome help-Thanks!
Thx man i really needed this info.
Glad I could help
Everyone talking about how cool it is to have all these different readings, which is cool, but honestly Sweeping the Gauges like a sports car?! Definitely gotta try lmao 😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the upload. Guess I bought my scan tool for nothing, lol.
Lol, this is an awesome on board tool
Your scan tool is more valuable than that little read out , that is if your scanner can do a running view of your engine and recording it, imagine trying too look at that little screen while driving? Lol
SUPER 👍
I just did my 2004 ford expedition and it works ty
Thanks for the info I have the same truck ill give it a shot
How long will a serviced on time 2008 4.2l last? I'm looking at one with 200k miles but it's a company truck so it was always serviced on time yaknow
I would have it inspected by a trusted mechanic
Hey thanks for the tip I just bought 04 at 150 Again thank you
1st I've heard of this and I just tried it on 2006 F150 5.4 and it works! Going to do some more research on what each step means and how to make changes. Example seatbelt said "G" and I clicked driver side in and it went to "B" I plugged passenger belt in and it didnt change, unbuckled both and it didnt change, buckled driver back in and it didnt change. I hope I just did a magic trick to shut up the seatbelt "DING" cause I've tried everything else even splicing the wires to make it think it's always buckled in, that didnt work either. Thanks for this info!
Did it work for the seat belts?
@@bryangoedicke8671 No sadly it did not. Still don't know what "G" and "B" mean, hard to find info on each item and what they change
hmmm i have a '96 ranger. i reasoned that the circuit that controls the audible alarm includes a normally Open momentary switch; built into the seat. sitting on the seat Closes the switch.
by disconnecting the switch (wires beneath the driver's seat), the circuit is Never closed. googletranslate
Thanks for sharing
Absolutely welcome
Fantastic video. Thank you for sharing.
You’re absolutely welcome
Man Scotty Kilmer is gonna be pissed that his 5000 scan tool is no longer needed!
Brad Suarez I would still keep the scan tool. The DTCs don’t pick up all of the MIL codes. I have a ‘13 F-150 and use the Engineering Mode occasionally. The DTC for a P0151 error doesn’t show anything.
It's going to "rev up his Engine" and blow smoke from his ears¡
@@josephdickinson852
Rev up your scan tools.
Then roll up your windows over at Uncle Tony's Garage.
Brad Suarez I love Scotty Kilmer - my neighbours watch him too! Rev up your engines!
When it says “sweep gauges” what kind of broom should you use?
I absolutely love your accent! And your pronunciations! Where are you from kid? Hello from Boston!
I just bought one ago I always try it but I didn't know all those. Thanks brother
just found this and tried it.....holly shit it works
Yesss 😊
I didnt know fords had this feature but dodge amd older obd1 vehicles along with lawnmowers and small engines with check engine lights you can turn the key on and off 5 or 8 times in a row (differs between vehicles) and get check engine light codes. The ones without a digital display flashes a 2 digit code in which you count the flashes then theres a pause and another set of flashes to count and that gives the code its throwing. For the door amd seatbelt throwing a ~~G i believe that means open ground for anyone doing future repairs. Most switches are activated by ground instead of hot on fords meaning the seatbelt lights stay on because its causing a open circuit when not buckled, then when you buckle the seatbelt it completes the ground circuit. You can also just click the seatbelt buckle button to get the chime and light to go away on most fords
Sumbitch!!
Had a FF150 year YEARS.
THANKS
I don’t think ford ever made a FF150 lol
Sir great video, Question how do you use the tach when truck is in test mode and engine off, ,let me know thks,
Do the same thing but turn on the truck and the test mode is still going then you can press the stick until it displays tach readings..
You are a godsend! Thank you!!!!
How do you keep the Tach on while driving, if you don't have one?
Great video 👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you
It's Fuel Percentage Not Pressure. This Mode Only Gives I/C DTC's And Gauge Function.
Thanks brother good too know 👍👍
No problem 👍
Ok you showed how to access that menu when it's off but how do you get the tachometer on the screen when you're driving
In the 92 through 96 years of f-150 4x4’s you can reprogram the speedometer and change the calibration to whatever tire size your running. It only allows you to change it 6 times though, so your stuck with the last one. It’s pretty simple , a search on RUclips brings up the procedure, anyone could do it, it’s also super easy to change your instrument cluster around or even just switch it out. 15 minutes or less for most of it. Hope this is relevant to someone, I still have my 93 , my tach came from a 96, lol.
Thanks good info!!!
You’re absolutely welcome
Great video, thanks !!!!
You’re absolutely welcome
Super helpful thanx
You’re absolutely welcome
works good for my 1999 f150 4.6 triton
Cool video! Learned a lot! Any ideas on where I can grab a short throw dip stick?
Thanks man, I'm really not sure
@@GK7GARAGE lol