How To Wire a 3 Gang Switch Box With 2 Circuits
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
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Here we go through the step by step process of wiring a triple gang switch box that is being fed from two separate circuits. There are a few additional things that you need to keep in mind when working in a box like this in order to keep everything wired correctly.
0:00 - 3 Gang Switch Box With 2 Circuits
0:20 - Trim Cables & Strip Sheathing
1:20 - Keep Circuits Separate With Labels
3:40 - Tie Only Ground Wires Together
6:28 - Neutrals On Main #6
8:21 - Hot Wires On Main #6
10:14 - Neutrals On Sub #2
11:08 - Hot Wires On Sub #2
12:38 - Basic Electricity Explanations
14:22 - How To Install Single Pole Switch
15:58 - Testing The Circuit
17:45 - SUBSCRIBE!!!
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Blessings from Minnesota,
Ben
You are a smart electrician and an even better teacher, Benjamin. Your videos have taught me more than even coworkers have. I admire your willingness to share your knowledge and again, the step by step clear way with which you do it.
In my country its against code to bring 2 circuits in the same box due to safety reasons
My dude you've helped me so much. I'm rebuilding my 120 yr old family farmhouse by myself. It all makes perfect sense being a builder with minimal electrical experience things are going smoothly with rough wire for me from your videos. I like that you keep closest attention to detail as you can with out overkill. Thanks again
This video has enlightened me on a recent upgrade in my house. I’m a mechanically inclined DIY-er. And I just couldn’t figure out for the life of me what the previous owners did in a switch box. They didn’t label anything so a simple addition of a smart switch took me a few hours between looking up you tube videos and just sitting back staring at it trying to figure it out in my head. This video came a little late as I already figured it out. Buttt I do have a full on renovation of an addition that was added in 2000. I will be gutting it to the studs and doing all new electrical all the way to the panel. It will be done the right way as I will be having it inspected by the local inspector. This video has given me a lot of ideas as to when I do go to do this renovation. Thanks and keep up the good work!
When my house was wired years ago, the electricians connected together the "hots" from two separate circuits in one upstairs switch box. Whenever both switches were turned on, one of the two breakers feeding the switch box would trip. The electricians couldn't figure out their mistake, so they changed one breaker location effectively powering the two breakers by the same phase in the main panel. This of course only compounded the problem since both breakers had to be turned off to de-power the combined circuits. It took me a little while to figure out where they had combined the "hots". Your work in this video is excellent.
That's such a bummer. Its amazing how much headache such a simple mistake can cause. That is also a good reason to keep multiple circuits out of a box. If at all possible I avoid having multiple circuits in a box but sometimes it is somewhat unavoidable.
Thanks for sharing your experience! Not all electricians do work of equal quality that's for sure.
Great story. No electrician worth his/her salt should ever have made such an error.
This video was a huge help and I can't stress it enough. I do mostly trim, tiles, doors, sheetrock, windows etc. A lady I work for couldn't figure out why the three gang box wasn't working that had three 3-ways in it. So I opened it up and nothing was hooked up. I couldn't figure out why I kept tripping the fuse and now I know why it's because there's two circuits and I kept putting all the neutrals together. Now I know what I was doing wrong because I got confused with the four 14/3 and three 12/2 and 2 separate circuits. I will definitely be watching a lot more of your videos
One of the better teachers on RUclips. Thank you!
Try that box with 12Awg and you will build muscles in places you thought muscles couldn't be built.
Haha for sure! My fingers start to hurt in short order when twisting wire nuts on 12awg wire. Wagos help reduce that of course.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom I sometimes use Channellocks to wirenut a bunch of 12s!
Ha ha child's play, try working on an old house with 20a circuits... 10 gauge aluminum wire + pigtails for cu only divices and noalox
@@mr.3phase228 Aw yuck, I've never seen aluminum wiring in homes. My 1890 house even has copper (knob & tube). That stuff is kind of obnoxious.
@@aaron74 ' I rewired a older single wide Mobil Home back in '85 that had all AL Wiring . Tore out all of the AL wiring , installed a new 200 Amp Main on a New Service Pole and then installd the service feeder underground in Schedule 80 PVC to the new Main Panel which I relocated to the the Hallway between the Liv area and the Master Bedroom and Rewired with all CU !
I've never seen such conscientious labelling in a box! so good
Happy new year! thanks for the help along the way
I find this video to be really helpful. You are a great teacher. Thank you
Love the video. Only thing I would add is that when you make your loop for the terminals on the switch, let viewers know that it matters which direction the loop faces. You’ve been doing it so long you probably just take it for granted. Keep up the good work!
Totally! I've said it so many times in other videos that I totally spaced it here. So funny how your muscle memory takes over and you don't even think about it. Thanks for pointing that out!
And you still didn’t say. The wire curl clockwise to pull it in as you tighten. If you go counter-clockwise it can actually back the wire off the screw.
Good video. When you twisted the wire to be attached to the strip, I did not hear you mention to twist them in the direction the screw turns when tightening them so the wire gets 'pulled' in under the screw rather than backwards and pushing the wire out.
They way you showed in the video was correct. It makes life easier if you have not done them before.
You're absolutely right! I totally forgot to point that out specifically. I'll definitely have to point that out better next time.
Real good instructional video. I would love if you would demonstrate a box fill calculation for this particular box so we can see how full it actually is! Super job!
Always impressed and left more knowledgeable...thank you
Nice work! Very informative.
Look aIm not the only person who said you're a good teacher Jaja. I too appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and teach in a step-by-step approach.... Most Respectfully Andrew Allen
You make the best videos allways
I'm a Licensed Journeyman Electrician with over 52 years in the trade, mainly Residential and Light Commercial, and I have never '' twisted the wires together '' with pliers prior to installing wire nuts or wingtips wire connectors and never had any problems or complaints from any of my customers or clients ! I've been doing it the way as I was taught in the State Vocational 4 yr. Apprenticeship Trade School !
Let the wire nut do what it was designed to do. 😉
? Explain why not to wire twist before the nutz???
@@graken22 ; not required as the Wingtip Wire Splice connector will do that if the ends of the wires being spliced are even. The inner metal screw shell inside the Wingtip Wire connector will grab and twist the wires for you !
Cool story boomer
@@graken22 Have you not ever put a wire nut on wires without pre twisting them? Try it and then unscrew the wire nut carefully and you will see that the connection is identical to a pre twisted one. Usually I only pre twist if I have more then 3 wires because in that case you have to give them a little taper to fit in the nut and twisting helps with that.
Very helpful . Thanks
Your right about the Wago lever nuts and the Ideal pushins ... It makes life a lot easier ... Good vid Benji ...
I hadn't use Wagos until recently and man are they nice! I have a video coming up very soon comparing the two. I think that "wire nuts" have a very limited future in the work I'll be doing!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Wago splice devices are very cool, they've been used in European countries for decades (on their standard 230V circuits no less). Wago is a German brand and actually pronounced "vah-go", but everyone in English-speaking countries say way-go. In the most extreme technical sense, they are a higher-resistance splice than a well-twisted wirenut splice just due to the bridged metal-to-metal spring contact, but there is probably only micro-ohms of difference so it doesn't matter--it's more of an academic rather than practical debate.
If you get them, be sure they're the Wago brand and not a Chinese knock-off that you can get on like aliexpress or whatever. They must be UL listed, which Wago is. They are absolutely amazing for doing splices of LOTS of wires together!
Ideal wire twisting drill attachment helps on large groups of 12-2!
Great video. Subscribed.
Excellent help, I have to wire a four gang with three circuts tomorrow.
Great job! Thanks for sharing!!!!!
Learning a lot from your vids. Muchas gracias!
Good job ,thank You
Great job!!
How I was taught: Use the razor on the last few inches of the romex. Skin it up into the box. Use diagonal cutters to cleanly cut sheathing leaving a 1/2 inch.
A sound mechanical connection is a sound electrical connection.
Wire twisting (Linesman pliers) creates a mechanical connection, wire nuts insulate those connections.
Create a tight braid of the grounds. (Not so tight you pull on the other wires.)
In "short" USE YOUR KLEINS MAN!
That cleared that up…thanks.
Great video bud!!
I just wanted to say thanks for your videos....because of them I am going to get a raise alot sooner.....lol 😆 👍
You are great , Thank you so much for the great videos I learned a lot from this. I know nothing about electric wiring and I was able to wired Broan 9093wh which is complicated for me. Took me hours trying figured it out how to wires but after watching your video making me understand more about electric wiring and it took me 5 min to get it done. Thanks again🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼. By the way what city do you live in I am living in Las Vegas 😀
This video was very helpful I appreciate your time and enjoyed watching.😁😎👍 and I’m curious are you going to put drywall around it
Great video! And yes, you're smart!
I love your label idea. Surly beats using white tape to label, etc
Well done. Very informative and to the point. Video recording was great. So many vids have way too much unnecessary dialog (often personal) and shakey video. I will use your channel for references. Good job!
My father was an electrician but a terrible teacher and one time I shorted a wire....thanks for explaining so I can understand.
I don’t like to put more than 6 #14/2 in those shallows 3gang boxes, good video
Just curious if you sized the box for the amount of conductors and devices?
It appears the volume of the box is inadequate from what I can see.
Thanks.
Ben, Is it OK to run a jumper on a single circuit feed at a switch box for the commons and hots? I have one feed 14/2 wire from my main panel to the box which will also have to feed another box nearby. Along with all the wires for the switches needing to be wired I suddenly am needing to wire nut like 8-9 wires together. Jumping like you did with the grounds here in this video is what I am referring to. Thanks in advance.
Thanks
nice job
I was taught to grab the bare ground with my linesman pliers and use it to split the sheathing.
Since you asked, one nit picky detail. On the grounds I would have preferably used a red nut like you mentioned but if I was using two tans I would have done them each by their corresponding panel. It really makes no difference but since you had everything so nicely labeled it would have added that extra layer of continuity to your presentation. Well done either way, there was nothing you did wrong here. I might say I liked when the other guy started asking questions, you were able to play off of that and it added depth to your explanation. :)
What do you do if you're working after someone else, and you find separate mutuals in the same box that were tied together, but there's only hot power in?
I can't seem just figure out neutrals on different circuits in the same box, but only one power in black wire.
I wired a similar switch box only with three switches and one separate circuit feeding a GFI Receptacle. I may have wired all the neutrals together consequently I have 60 volts at the light fixtures when the switches are off. Is this a back feed problem. Suggestions?
Always twist the ends before installing wire nuts, red or blue wire nuts make more room in box, and alwys curl wire when attaching to device in same direction of screw, then tighten with FLATHEAD screw driver. Wago's only make a small contact point. Just like the stab loc on devices. Never use them n never will. After 40 years as a journeyman, have seen my fair share of burnt up devices or screws on devices loose from a phillips head drill or screw driver. Tinhgs need to be tight. Even newer devices with tab under the screw, i still curl the wire around the screw in proper direction. Doing service, way to many times pulling out devices, n the wire came off. Tight is right. I found that a no1 robertson bit works the best, even in a driver drill with clutch turned down, then test with flat head till you find the correct torque setting on your drill. No impact drivers. Nice job, just things i would have done a little different.
Great video! I think Wagos would work better in this application, just my 2 cents....
Hi Ben, love your videos! I was wondering if you could do a video on wire nut sizes in depth. The biggest ones available to me are the gb ultra wingard 14-6 blue. It says min. 3 #12 and Max 5 #10. On the back it says 3-6 #12 and 5/6 #14. This confuses me a little. Does that mean a max of 6 14 gauge wires? I appreciate any info you can provide. Thanks
I'll get that added to the list! Thanks for asking!
No problem. Thank you!
always hook up the ground first, always remove the ground last. extra insurance in case of knicked wires.
That's what I do whenever I replace or install a switch or outlet.
Benjamin, the can you explain , you mentioned tge power is coming in , and going out where is it going to after that ?
Hey Benjamin, can you tie the neutrals in a 14/3 run together? Technically they're on separate circuits.
Separate circuits should NOT share neutrals.
Have a problem Ben with lighting circuit to bathroom. Installed 2 new outlets, 1 light switch to bathroom vanity. 1 outlet as normal. 1 outlet near sink a GFI.
Above the GFI, a light switch for above sink light bar. PROBLEM-
When light swich is OFF, lights have a dim glow. GFI tests/works fine. What can i check?
If I have 12-3 wire coming in from two individual 20 amp breakers should I have a separate neutral wire ? I have a GCFI that keeps tripping but it takes like 12 hours before it does.
Ben, Thanks for a great channel. I have a question about multiple 3 way switches in the same J-Box. So, when you enter my Tiny House and on the left is a wall switch, with 4 different 3 way switches. Each 3-way switch controls a different operation. One does ceiling lights, the other does Front porch lights, the third 3-way controls the deck lights and the Fourth 3 way switch controls an outlet at ceiling level for a rope light (LED). I know I can run 14/2 from the panel to the J-box and get power to the switches. Here is where I'm a bit unsure! I need to run 14/3 to the other J-Box that has Four 3 way switches that operates the same as the front door J-box. Do I have to run 4 different 14/3 runs? is there a way to combine those runs onto just one run? and if so how might that work? Thanks for your help!
Buchanan crimps for your ground wires works great and you can leave your wires long and use them as your pig tails for your devices
I was just thinking about that and started searching comments to see if anyone does that. I don't think it's against code, makes for a less congested box and makes all kind of sense !
It’s not against code at all. Actually inspectors like seeing it because it is a way better connection. 👍🏻
Also great for connections that you don't want pple to mess with snap on a plastic cap almost as good as a weld been using em for 25yrs with the proper crimp tool
Yes I love crimp and caps are great
@@frankgorgone4879 i will say though he did a great job getting it done with what he had. im sure you have been there when you need to get the job done and only have limited resources may not be ideal but its done safe and reasonable quality.
3:34. I really appreciate your videos so far, they've been very helpful. Just wondering why you have 7 sets of wires going into this box and also why you had to pigtail the ground wires.
The Tan wire nuts he is using technically only accommodate 5 wires,
All the grounds need to be connected to each other, but their are limitations to how many grounds can go in a wire nut (5 in his case) and how many grounds can go into a switch (which is only 1). Pig tails make all of this possible.
As always, nice job Ben! Thank you
Thanks for being a subscriber! Out of curiosity, do you think I should start doing electrical videos exclusively on this channel? It seems that my non electrical videos don't do very well and some people even unsubscribe when I post them. Thanks for watching!
Hell Ben, my primary interest is on the electrical instruction but I do enjoy a side topic now and then.
Great video. Question for you Benjamin - how can you determine if wires coming into a box all belong to one circuit or to two circuits? I’m trying to determine if a gangbox in my bathroom has wiring belonging to one or two circuits. Aside from the wiring for the bathroom there is a cable going from the box to a first hallway switch which in turn has a cable going to a second switch in that hallway at the entrance to the kitchen. Is that cable part of one bathroom circuit or part of a different circuit? I need to know if I can connect the neutral and hot wires of that cable with the neutrals/hots of the bathroom wiring.
every german electrican be like there is bare copper in this fucking box
Extremely helpful. You impressed me. I learnt a lot. I would like to talk to you personally. What is your email to contact you? Also, I need your guidance. I am trying to install Moes -Two gang 3way switch in the current two circuits switches. I can see power coming in the switch. But the lights are not getting turned on. This switch requires Line, Neutral and L1 and L2 Out.
I generally prefer steel boxes in general for their quality and strength, and the #6-32 tapped holes for the mounting screws of devices. But where steel boxes REALLY shine is with multi-gang installations. NEC permits you to use self-grounding devices with steel boxes if the box is grounded. Many of the low cost (often called residential-grade) devices are not marketed as self-grounding ONLY because there is little piece of plastic that prevents the mounting screw of the device to fall out of its yoke. BUT if you remove this piece of plastic and make sure the device makes solid metal-to-metal surface contact when you tighten it in place, then the device will be grounded if the steel box is grounded, and it won't need another pigtail ground to its ground screw. This is a huge benefit with 3-gang or more boxes, it really cuts down on wire fill congestion.
@ Aaron Kassel Thanks for the input. As we speak I am making a decision about plastic vs. steel 3 gangs I'm installing. Going steel.
@@youvegottoseethis5615 Glad to help. A three gang welded steel box can be hard to find, so you may need to purchase three single gang device boxes and assemble them. If I were a welder, I'd weld them together so there is no chance they can come apart.
Ugadda Seedis not sure where you live but in Canada the CEC doesn’t require switches to be grounded. If that has any effect on you in anyway
@@Nick-bh1fy Canadian CSA-listed boxes require grounding, whether steel or plastic. Plastic boxes have a metal strap jumping the ground screws in the back of the box to the mounting screws in the front of the box. By virtue of that, all devices marketed as "self-grounding" are grounded anyway, whether a pigtail was made to a device's ground screw or not.
Aaron Kaase yea I get u, I meant the switches themselves don’t need a bonding jumper directly to the box but yes the box it self needs to be grounded
Thank you, I am benefiting from your's channel, I will like to know more from u. Am I allow ask? Thankyou so much.
8:21 I'm a bit confused as why you are pigtailing the hot wires here and where exactly they are going. Is the one black pigtail going to a separate box?
The construction job he is working on is still in the middle phase. He said he is not fully installing the switches until after the drywall is up. By pig tailing the blacks together it is essentially the same as having a switch that is always on. Doing this allows the rest of the circuit after the switch (or in this case the pigtail) to be tested even if the switch is not yet installed. HTHs
Its all about that roll
I noted that all the devices (switches) that you were using were standard switches. The head scratcher for me is trying to wire-in smart wifi switches which are wider and much deeper. All the wiring that you have stuffed in the back of the boxes makes getting those smart switches difficult to get into the box and screwed down. I am just curious how an electrician solves this problem. Thanks.
Hey Ben, can you do a video on floating neutral generator and bonded neutral generator? Differences and potential hazards and whys. Thanks!
I would love to! I've read some about the topic but am by no means an expert on it as of yet. I'll have to do some more learning before that one will be ready. Thanks for asking!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom I had a customer wanting to put a cord on a furnace so she can plug into extension cord with generator when power went out. Told her it has to stay hardwired but found a cool product called EzGenerator Transfer Switch box which will be perfect. ezgeneratorswitch.com/generator-switch-installation/
Would love to see that
I only worked with metal boxes and plaster rings some 30 years ago and nothing is worse than spending all that time wiring a box full of wires and when you have a device screw the shorted the wire out. I can still hear the breaker tripping and seeing and smelling the smoke from the square to round coming out of the ceiling fixture. I thought of that see the plastic box and the device screws are not exposed.
When two circuits are run into on box, is there anything special that needs to be done in the panel? For example, what happens if someone else come in later and thinks they have turned off one breaker but not the other?
You should always test to make sure power is completely off, don’t rely on believing the breaker shut off power entirely. Also keeping a clear panel schedule is very helpful as well
yep, you potentially (both meanings...) have 240V in that oulet box. always use your voltage tester or meter.
For this reason, it is forbidden in Germany to install two circuits in one junction box.
Why would bonding the neutrals together cause a short circuit? Isn’t this what a shared neutral in a multiwire branch circuit does?
Sometimes I catch a little bit of the wire insulation under the screw when installing a switch or outlet. Is that a big deal?
Usually not, but it may make it loosen if the insulation degrades.
Great job. Only comment comes from industrial world. The line always feed on top. The Load always on bottom.
Thanks for sharing that. Is that a code mandated thing or just a best practice? You're referring to the connection on the switches correct?
@@BenjaminSahlstrom It makes absolutely no difference. If the switch required it, it would be marked on the switch.
its best practice
Hey Ben!
1-Please get a pair of Klein lineman pliers and twist your joints first. I prefer ideal strippers with nm sheathing cutters also has 6/32&8/32 machine screw cutters.
2- i prefer ideal red wirenuts with wings for everything and ideal orange wirenuts for stranded fixture wires.
Thanks for the advice! There seems to be some debate as to if pretwisting is required. Someone recently said that it is required by code now? Where would I find that requirement?
If you go by the manufacturer's instructions for the connector many times they state that pretwisting is not required. I realize that it does hurt to pretwist but I just want to understand the pros and cons. Wagos or push connectors seem like they are the way of the future since they don't damage the wires as much as pretwisting does. What do you think of them?
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Nah, I think they are full of bull. The instructions for splicing lie with the manufacturer of the splicing device. If the manufacturer says to pre-twist, then you must do it in order for them to warranty their product and to meet the specifications of their UL listing. Workmanship is largely out the NEC's purview.
Benjamin Sahlstrom
It’s not code but a good practice.
Push on are expensive and you can’t beat a good joint.
@@toddiman8739 Agreed, I would use the push-ons or Wago lever nuts when I'm joining 5 or more conductors. I pretty much stop at the red wirenut. I don't want to use the big blue or gray ones, it just gets too messy and looks bad too.
Aaron Kaase sometimes you just have to have them big gray or blue guys though
Not an expert - but is there any problem when you tie grounds together from two different panels? Even if one is a sub-panel?
All grounds should be....ground potential so yes technically it does matter, they shouldnt be at different potentials from one another or have the possibility to be, ...please connect them.
As long as there's a main panel feeding a subpanel (or multiple subpanels), then there's no issue tying grounds together. In fact, they must be all connected to create a return path to the transformer. Now if it's two main panels, then there's a problem.
I like to leave grounds a little longer, twist them couple of times, then crimp. 😎
I think you could have used a red wirenut for simplicity for the grounds ;).
Or a green with integrated pigtail
@@TomCee53late comment but I did see those greenies before but was taught the old school way
I have not found any good videos on adding a separate switch for ceiling fan when the power comes into the light. Would be great for you to do a video on adding another wire and switch for separate light and fan operation when power comes into the light. Lots of videos on how to do this when you have power coming into the switch first.
I am struggling with you tying the grounds together. This will make a ground loop at this box. How come this is legal ? Especially, when many circuits have to have GFI / Arc fault on them now this might interfere with that.
When using a wire nut, use your nose wire strippers to grip the nut barrel! Works great in the field…all day.
Great vid. I am against the grain here, but when I wire circuits I ONLY put one feed per multigang box. I hate different neutrals and power feeds. This is just my preference. When time to kill the breaker, I ONLY ever have to find One. Lates.
I totally agree that that is the way to go if at all possible. It is so much cleaner and worth while to do it the way you suggest. Unfortunately not everyone does it that way so it is still beneficial for people to know what they may encounter from time to time. Thanks for sharing!
Ideally, yeah, one circuit per box keeps things far less complicated. Sometimes it's just unavoidable with how circuits land in the construction process, as I'm sure what happened in this case. It's usually not a deliberate design, just more circumstantial.
I’ve done boxes with three circuits hahaha
When one twists on the Wirenuts or Wingtip Connectors, they twist the conductors together as one screws them on !!!!!
Sometimes.
Good video but I would say it matters which way you twist the wire
Doesn't matter which side is up? Technically, but many homeowners prefer up = on and down = off plus the writing on the outlet says off right side up when down
True. It says no upside down lol
I always connect the power at the top of the switch, so to turn on I switch up and to switch off I switch up..
I'm a little confused by one thing. If there are two separate circuits coming into the box, why are the grounds from each circuit tied together as if it were all one circuit? Would the grounds from each circuit be spliced to their respective circuits ONLY?
Ground is ground.
ground has to be all one ckt.
Because grounds aren't current carrying conductors.; they only carry current momentarily when clearing a ground fault. For that reason, grounds are always tied together regardless of which circuit they're from. But yes, when bonding those wires, you can make separate joints for each circuit and tie them together to further indicate they're different circuits inside a box.
Video showing how to not contact a cable in XXl,
Connecting""
So could you have just twisted all 7 ground wires together tightly without using a nut, then cut off 4 of the unneeded grounds, and push them to the back of the box, leaving 3 of the grounds long enough to be used on the 3 switches? Or would that be against the code? Seems like a lot of extra steps to make 3 ground pigtails when you already have 7 ground wires to begin with
Cutting 4 off and leaving three for the switches would only be against code if those 4 short wires stick out less than 3 in from the outside of the box. Otherwise, there's nothing wrong with doing that, as long as you put a crimp sleeve (steel or copper) where those 4 wires end. In fact, this is how my house is wired and it saves space.
I'd throw some tape around the switch, especially with them bare ground wires. Great vid Ben
Yea, I have started doing that by habit. Many moons ago I didn't with the older/smaller remodel boxes that were metal. Good Times back then.
You know, I did that for years and stopped doing so about 10 years ago. The main reason being is I found over time, the adhesive of the tape breaks down, and the tape sort of unravels itself and leaves residue on the device if you ever have to deal with it later. It's just not necessary... a bare ground should never come into contact with it if it's pushed to the back neatly as Ben did. Plus you may want to put a test probe on one of the screws while the device is mounted, and you can't do it with the tape in the way. It's definitely a good intention, to be sure, but I've determined it unnecessary and impractical in my experience.
@@aaron74 Ideal is coming out with those armour band insulators early next year, seems like a better option.
@@mr.3phase228 Armour band insulators? What's that? It goes around a device to cover its screws? I could see a fat rubber band could be a nice accessory. Thing is, there are a lot of electrical accessories and tools and that are nice, but not necessary...
@@aaron74 Check out Bill from Sparky Channel, the video is called Ideal Armourband insulating wraps coming soon!
You should do a video about changing a 4 way light circuit to a 3 way. 4 way smart switches are much more expensive and don't have the same features as smart 3 way switches.
I have never seen a 4 way light switch. I believe that you really wouldn't need a 4 way smart switch as you could just use one smart 3 way switch on the first box where the power comes in. Then in effect you have control of all of the 3 or 4 way switches involved. Comment with the manufacturer and model of the smart 4 way switch you are talking about if you have it as that sounds very interesting to learn more about!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Well I just changed out a 4 way to a 3 way and removed one of the switches. I am just saying a lot of people would like to see a video about it.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Traditional 4-way switches simply reverse the travelers in-between the two 3-way switches. You can wire as many 4-way switches between the two 3-way switches as you want, because all that happens with both 3- and 4-way switches is they switch which traveler is getting current, and any other switch changes it back.
Smart switches are a whole different and new thing. They are just electronic relays that switch 120V and use RF communications with remote switches. The "hub" switch is a single-pole relay and all the other switches are just remotes that mount in box and look like switches but are really just buttons that transmit RF to the hub to turn on the light.
I thought all the LINES in an outlet had to be from the same panel. Also, maybe connected together in that panel.
0:56 min. i dont agree how youuse the knife.. you can cut your finger.
i want to find a electrical job on nyc i love to do electrick jobs i have don on eu and i searching here now can u help me to find some electrick company to hire me ?
This isn't overfill?
Why not use any crimps for the grounds?
To be totally honest I don't have any experience using crimped grounds. What are the benefits of crimping versus using standard connectors? Maybe I'll have to research and make a video about crimping the grounding conductors. Thanks for asking!
I have heard those crimp sleeves are requires in some jurisdictions. Not here in MN. Just standard wire connectors are good here. Those crimps sleeves are super good, though.
Benjamin Sahlstrom I just left a comment on one of the benefits of crimps.
Way less connections and takes up less room, also you can leave the wires long and use them as your pig tails for your devices.
And the crimp is tight and way better then a wire nut.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Ben if you haven't yet see a cple of videos on them if you use the proper tool they hold as well as a weld and you can place a plastic cap over them very hard to get apart unless you know how just need to squeeze twice with lineman's and they pull off most noobs just cut them off lol been using em almost 25 yrs there almost a good tamper seal too many a job we went to and home owner cut them off and we nailed em with a service call instead of a warranty call back
Why would it trip right away?
They have these devices now that one puts into the chuck of a variable speed drill and it slips over the outer plastic shell of the wing tip or wire nut connector and it aids on putting them on and it makes it a lot easier than by doing it with your fingertips ! Amazon sells them ! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087TBPS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If u liook at light switch it says on and off the switch wiring she be oriented for switch to work in that direction
Haven't seen 14awg in a while...
and when I saw it I was like whew dat ez. 12awg u need muscles. 14awg is childs play.
Wrapping the ground wire around the hot wire by itself creates a transformer inducing current into ground wire.
Where I live I do not believe we are allowed to run two different circuits into the same box.
Where do you live and how come?
@@lordperezident I live in Manitoba Canada. It is a safety issue. When someone goes to work in the box they shut off a breaker figuring everything is deenergized in the box when it may not be.