"Standard height is 48" to top of the box" Best tip so far on all the countless wiring of electrical I have seen. Thanks for taking a second to include that.
I found this video very clear to follow and very instructional for an amateur like me. I was able to understand why I was having some issues with a timer switch that I want to install. Thanks
That was an excellent demonstration of twisting 4 #12 gauge wires. I need to practice that more as I seem to make a good looking spiral only about 70% of the time. My limited experience tells me that connecting 3 or more 12 gauge wires makes pre twisting mandatory. Then again, I could not worry about it and just use Wago 221 lever nuts. I think they are the gold standard currently.
Your video was extremely helpful. I put a half bath in the basement and had to run a new line for the ceiling fan and light. After watching the video I had no problem putting the fan and light combo in. Thanks
When I lived in a home in Garden Grove, I wanted to install a ceiling fan in my bedroom, without opening the walls, and put in the three speed fan switch and light control where my existing light switch is. So I have access to the attic above, and put in a box near the light switch. The wire going to the switch was then connected to one of the romex that was going to the switch, and to the wire leaving the switch to the next one. so I now have 3 extra wires. It made hooking up the light easy. I had three romex going to that switch, in from the circuit breaker, out to the next light switch, and out to the existing ceiling light fixture. It's been 30 years, so not all is remembered right, but I did get it done without needing to install more wires. For the living room, I put in a steel box in the attic, nailed to a 2X6, and then cut a hole in the drywall below that, and put 1 romex to that box. Then put in a ceiling fan that has a built in remote control, so easy! Glad I did that, and every new ceiling fan after that one. I put it on the same circuit breaker as my furnace, and that has plenty of extra power before reaching the 15 amp limit.
I was watching your "Live sink" and water fixture that is causing your touchless sensor to show live power. Reminded me of another place, where that happened in a bar. They had a un-used roof top spinning sign, (1970's). and when that circuit breaker was on, then the whole place - every metal stud or wall panel, they where all "Hot". By disconnecting that one wire, it all went back to normal. Easy way to discover the problem is shut off 1 CB at a time, until the fault goes away. In some homes, you need to shut off all of the breakers, then turn on 1 at a time, until the fault shows up. Then shut off that breaker, and turn on the rest, one at a time, until the fault comes back. So now you have 2 circuit breakers that someplace in that home are connected together. Good luck finding that problem. Yes I have seen it in a couple of homes. It is actually far more danger than you might think. So say that if CB #2 is on, the circuit is energized and rated at 20 amps. Shut off #2 and turn on #6, and now both circuits have power, and the #6 breaker can also feed 20 amps into the same circuit, without tripping. So in reality, you could be pulling 35 amps and not trip breaker #2 or #6. This can happen when you feed one receptacle to another, and then you get two circuits connected through 1 receptacle. Many times this happens when you have a table light that is controlled by a wall switch, and they mess it all up! Good luck with your project!
Another excellent video. I've been using the Wago connectors for a while now instead of the twist caps and prefer the space savings in the box. Long-term I think they will perform better as any changes in the box won't require untwisting wires and having to shorten them to remove the damage from the twist. They also save time.
I agree that the Wagos are convenient if there is a chance you will be adding or subtracting wires from a junction box especially when field conditions require a change of plans. For example, I just added 12/3 to an outlet box to power a switch for undercabinet lights. And the video showed a great applicaton for Wagos to test the switch circuit by simulating the switch being on. Another great application is using the new inline Wago to lengthen a short wire. My problem with Wagos is that it is easy for the levers to accidently open when folding wires into the box and the wires don't always seat if you are not careful. If space is not an issue, I may remove the Wagos and replace them with wire nuts before folding the wire into the box. If space is an issue, or if I decide to keep the Wago, I tape the levers down before folding.
Great job on how you present the information to the audience. I'm a fan and you have earned another subscriber. Researching this stuff to run my own electric into my soon to be constructed workshop. I have yet to see any video that takes you through the complete setup from the breaker panel to connecting lights, switches, receptacles and fans. I will keep looking.
15:04, Thought or suggestion: Well, it'd be great if you went ahead and installed the 2 switches for the sake of demonstration - pretending about drywall of course.
6:00 if I’m not mistaken you could make your own greeny wire nut by just drilling a small hole in the top of a normal wire but if you need one in a pinch or don’t want a huge pack from a small job.
@@turboflush I don't see why code wouldn't allow it if the factory greeny does it like that, unless the greeny is banned. It would only be the wrong color but depending on the wire going to it any electrician should know what it is.
@@FishFind3000 You can't modify the way something is manufactured. An inspector could fail it. The NEC 2020 says: "110.3 (B) Installation and Use. Equipment that is listed, labeled, or both shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling."
Ben you did excellent on this one (not that my opinion matters) but in all aspects you nailed it, yes you are beyond what’s required but doing a lot for future is what separates the true craftsman from everyone else. especially liked the staple requirements 👍. Informational note many blue plastic boxes for new work don’t actually have a clamping mechanism it’s more of a knockout...very common, on new builds..
Well informed and well explained video. I do have a question in regard to installing a bathroom exhaust fan with a light. Do have any videos that show how to add a bathroom exhaust fan switch to an existing light switch? So I would like to add another switch in my bathroom that will control the exhaust fan. Can I piggyback off the existing light switch? Thanks in advance
Excellent channel Ben. Not rough in related but I really like to install fan timer switches with ten minute run time up to an hour run time to help get rid of shower humidity to help prevent mildew. Not sure if I trust the humidity sensor switches to run long enough.
I use the Edwards timer myself. Considering we now know that, in Canada, the shower moisture penetrates the drywall and condenses on the poly sheet when it is cold out, and then can drip back in when it warms up, causing black mold on the drywall. The timer lets the occupant leave the fan on for an hour after a shower while they head out to work, etc. It saves coming home at night to find a fan still running. The hour of fan seems to vent the moisture nicely.
The neutral wires look into using wagos or the ideal push ins I grabbed a bag of the 4 port push ins those where a great time saver and using 2 of them was less space than a orange wirenut. I'm really starting to phase out wirenuts over the wagos and the ideal pushins especially for ground wires with multi feeds in a j-box where separating them for testing is so much easier
An hvac guy came and did some service on my unit I wired in with Wago's... first the apprentice said "what the hell is this?" Then the lead guy said something like "those are telephone connectors" Haha.
Hello, I just subcribed to your channel now,,, I 'm an industry electrian, I hope someday can go to usa to work this, cheers from Dominican Republic...
@@rodgerhatfield3068 ok thanks!....would love to put a generator in that will run 100% everything for the house....I think preferably that runs off nat gas.....thanks again...
I agree with andy. Per haps you could save on a couple safe off nuts if you just cut a 12" com pigtail strip both ends and insert them in your com bundle. Then just roll them into the box and if there is a future need all they need do is cut the com loop in half and use as needed. But I am splitting hairs. Beautiful work as usual.
Interesting how you wire up in America compared to here in Australia and the UK which are similar. We wire bathroom fans and heater lamps to the light circuit of 10 amps 240v. A dedicated lighting circuit is often used in larger builds to bathrooms only. I like the boxes even though we don't see boxes used at the stitch points over here in domestic builds.
In Europe many people use washing machines in their bathrooms (often illegally cause distance from bath/shower to electric appliances should be at least 2 foot, but people install them close to bath), so 10A circuit is very small and bathroom requires two circuits. In large European bathrooms some people organise saunas, which requires 3-phase electric power. In America quarter is powered with high voltage and each consumer has dedicated transformer, but in Europe districts have common transformer and such saunas in bathroom sometimes cause voltage drop, especially in historical districts.
I was looking for instant hot water heater until I was told 60Amp service is required for electric units or run gas We passed on instant hot water maybe loop back system we had old house
I appreciate your strong physical connection before twisting on the wire nuts, looks like a best practice. I am currently troubleshooting a switch that turns on 2 lights, only the first light from the switch turns on. I have continuity from one fixture to the next. I only have voltage on the first fixture. All of the light fixtures have wire feeds with black twisted to white which is foreign to me. Perplexed.
Hey I've seen a couple of your videos and I love how you take it slow and explain very well. But I watched a different video with you wiring a 4 gang box and you told your friend that all of the neutrals are not supposed to be connected because they're different circuits but in this one you did. So if I'm wiring a 3 or 4 gang box with one power supply coming in are all the neutrals supposed to be connected for all the switches? also would I be able to jump another hot wire from a box like in this video to another box with a single pole switch.I'd really love to see a video with you showing step by step of wiring everything together in a deep junction box in a attic for lights and fans, 3way switches etc. Just to go more in depth a little. And by the way I'm gonna subscribe
I have an outlet that’s reading open neutral. Pretty sure the double light switch that on the line is whats wired wrong that causing it. However I’m only my second week into an electrical helper. I can’t follow this but it has helped me
Your white/blue wire, (wire that has no current) is not properly connected. Either its loose or not properly connected to where its making contact with the connectors to the light switch or wall plug/outlet to where it completes the current.
Love your content. Would like to see a video on how to install a surge protector on a 50 amp sub panel in a detached garage. Presently I have found no videos on RUclips. Thanks.
Yes a surge protector, I have blinking lights and on street with 10 homes with one feed from electrical grid line to one transformer feeds total street I am think surgery protector might minimize the blink in lights
There have been times when you’ve used a 14 gauge green insulated wire in creating the grounded connection from the device to the mechanical ground. Should a person always be using the 12 gauge green insulated wire with a 12 gauge 20 amp circuit?
I have two wires in the ceiling of my bathroom going to my ceiling fan from a double switch and the other comes from the light fixture. The power starts at the switch and I need to know how to wire the new ceiling fan in as well as the light fixture12/3 to 12/3
Great video. Very thorough. All the detailed explanations are spot on.I like to also write the "light/fan" on the edge of the sheeting before putting it in the box so it's visible inside on entry. I don't do the sheeting sleeve as you have done. I liked the stripper with the sheeting cutter, but I'm not sure I want to get a stripper. It's such a hassle pinch tearing it with the linesmen.
While it is code now to have a neutral present at every switch box...adding the pigtails for them when not needed is unnecessary. You have them capped off in the back in case it's needed for a future change, but since you're using regular switches adding the pigtails is just taking up more space in the box. Plus more of a chance to have a wire nut come off and cause a short. Yes, it's convenient to have the pigtails ready to go if they're eventually needed but the cons far outweigh that. Otherwise great job and very neat work. Union apprentice electrician here from LA and enjoy your vids.
Benjamin tells us that the more you manipulate copper wire, the stiffer it becomes. He likes to connect the wires and push them into the box ONE TIME. That is HIS particular custom. You are not wrong but he - and I - really don't like pulling wires out and reconnecting them.
As an apprentice, please make sure you are reading the code carefully. Does 90.4 really say that ahj can toss out all the NEC rules? Does 110.3.(B). Really demand we follow the manufacturer's instructions? Does 404.2.(C). Really have about 6 exceptions to the, "neutral in every box"? And is it ahj or NEC that lets us not fill those 1/4 in holes in 4 x 4 metal boxes? They are un-used openings. Your friends and family are probably already looking to you as an expert. Work hard, be that guy.
Towards the end of the video, you wired the hot wires simulating a switch being turned on so you could check for a breaker trip. You mentioned going to drywall next. Would it be good to check for a trip before drywall or is that overkill?
at @1:30 you set up a receptacle box below. As you mentioned the power comes from down below (basement or first floor) and it meets that receptacle and you mentioned GFCI thereafter therefore I assumed that receptacle will be GFCI. Does any incoming connection need to meet a GFCI receptacle then distribute per code when working in wet areas?. I'm working on a setup similar to that and I need to run power from an outside receptacle that is not GCFI. I'd assume that the first connection in the bathroom needs to be GFCI. I'm not an electrician but I'm familiar with the theory of electricity and magnetism, digital systems, and ac/cd circuits, Ohms, Gauss etc. Excellent video, subscribed.
Your description left me thinking about to many code sections and mentally kicking myself to remind me that each jurisdiction can select different rules, even throw the code book out. So, I would encourage you to call in a local electrician. Not to do the work, but to "consult" for you on easy fixes and best practices. Remind them that all you need is the pathway to go so you can do it and give them a little cash for looking and recommending. Permits might be required, they may have fought your same problem before and can give you the playbook. Also, I am not an inspector but find them very helpful and eager to have safe buildings. A call there might get you the rules before you do anything. Finding out your cable was the wrong type before you hang sheetrock might save you more than if the pros did it once.
Can you let me know what make/model number the automatic wire strippers are. I clicked the link and seems that the link is no longer active. Also - your favorite tools on amazon does not have it listed.
Benjamin, I wanted to rough wire up for a ceiling fan and light on separate switches, one a dimmer and the other a single pole in one of the rooms. How many wires do I need? For BTW for all your excellent videos.
+1 for not changing anything. Excellent job. Don't forget I'm still looking for a video on installing a 0-10 volt dimmer switch to multiple LED style florescent lights fixtures.
Typically the power pack will require you’re regular line voltage connect as well as a 18/2 LVT cable. Each fixture will receive a 120v whip to supply power and a 18/2 wire going in and out using the grey and purple leads
Ray, you can also cover with a baggie (Ziploc, etc) or plastic sheeting, like cut offs from masking the windows for painting. I agree with keeping the wiring clean with other trades following afterwards.🙂
Your rough in videos teach well, but I wish you had videos that showed installation of the switches/outlets etc. What conductors attach to which screws may not be intuitive to the DIYer. Do you have follow up videos like that? If so, please let us know. You could refer to them when you end the rough in videos and get more views/likes/subscribers!! Thanks.
Thank you so much for your good explanation, but I have a question! after twisted together the neutral wires, Why did you put two neutral wires? is switch need to neutral wire? I think it doesn't need, Usually a switch has 3 terminals; one for ground, one for power entering and one for power out, Am I right? please answer me I became confused. thanks brother.
Great video! The only thing I would probably done different is use crimp copper sleeve (Buchanan) to hold the ground wires together and eliminate the “greenie” and I would leave the black wire power in wire a bit longer to cut the insulation twice, one loop for the first switch and the 4” down the wire to make a loop for the second switch thereby eliminating the another wire connector. Keep up the great work!!
I've watched a few of your videos that I've subscribed a long time ago. My question is: I want to wire the light and the fan onto the same motion light circuit. (Both on and off same time.)Even though there separate units. (Light is over vanity and sink. Exhaust fan is a standalone item added completely as there was a window before with no fan) 20 amp circuit. Not to make matters worse there was no GFCI before (older home) I installed that a while ago. But shouldn't they be on a different circuit so I'm not standing in the dark if the wife hair dryer trips it. ( I'm just curious about that) I don't have to change that if it involves a lot more work. Add another switch for a new led water rated light for over the shower. Upgraded to a 2 gang box total.
Connect the fan a light wires and pigtail to switch. I don't think that this an always desirable setup. On your second question the answer is yes, but it had to be roughed in that way. Most likely an enormous job at this point, not worth it.
Could you leave the 2 neutral pigtails for possible future use connected as a loop instead of cutting and wire nuts on the ends? Then you could just cut the loop to create the pigtails if you need them.
Technically, yes. But in an electrical ground fault issue, you lose lighting if you use the load side. This is why you should never do it. Take it from the feed side (pigtail)
"Standard height is 48" to top of the box" Best tip so far on all the countless wiring of electrical I have seen. Thanks for taking a second to include that.
I personally roughed my house at 42" to bottom, because children and we have stuff in our hands often.
This dude has some of the best videos on electrical outlet there. Nice work man
I found this video very clear to follow and very instructional for an amateur like me. I was able to understand why I was having some issues with a timer switch that I want to install. Thanks
That was an excellent demonstration of twisting 4 #12 gauge wires. I need to practice that more as I seem to make a good looking spiral only about 70% of the time. My limited experience tells me that connecting 3 or more 12 gauge wires makes pre twisting mandatory. Then again, I could not worry about it and just use Wago 221 lever nuts. I think they are the gold standard currently.
Your video was extremely helpful. I put a half bath in the basement and had to run a new line for the ceiling fan and light. After watching the video I had no problem putting the fan and light combo in. Thanks
When I lived in a home in Garden Grove, I wanted to install a ceiling fan in my bedroom, without opening the walls, and put in the three speed fan switch and light control where my existing light switch is. So I have access to the attic above, and put in a box near the light switch. The wire going to the switch was then connected to one of the romex that was going to the switch, and to the wire leaving the switch to the next one. so I now have 3 extra wires. It made hooking up the light easy. I had three romex going to that switch, in from the circuit breaker, out to the next light switch, and out to the existing ceiling light fixture. It's been 30 years, so not all is remembered right, but I did get it done without needing to install more wires.
For the living room, I put in a steel box in the attic, nailed to a 2X6, and then cut a hole in the drywall below that, and put 1 romex to that box. Then put in a ceiling fan that has a built in remote control, so easy! Glad I did that, and every new ceiling fan after that one. I put it on the same circuit breaker as my furnace, and that has plenty of extra power before reaching the 15 amp limit.
I like ur instruction..as a retired educator I appreciate mastery
Of Subject Matter.
Outstanding..I
Share u with my People
Stay Safe
I was watching your "Live sink" and water fixture that is causing your touchless sensor to show live power. Reminded me of another place, where that happened in a bar. They had a un-used roof top spinning sign, (1970's). and when that circuit breaker was on, then the whole place - every metal stud or wall panel, they where all "Hot". By disconnecting that one wire, it all went back to normal.
Easy way to discover the problem is shut off 1 CB at a time, until the fault goes away. In some homes, you need to shut off all of the breakers, then turn on 1 at a time, until the fault shows up. Then shut off that breaker, and turn on the rest, one at a time, until the fault comes back. So now you have 2 circuit breakers that someplace in that home are connected together. Good luck finding that problem. Yes I have seen it in a couple of homes. It is actually far more danger than you might think. So say that if CB #2 is on, the circuit is energized and rated at 20 amps. Shut off #2 and turn on #6, and now both circuits have power, and the #6 breaker can also feed 20 amps into the same circuit, without tripping. So in reality, you could be pulling 35 amps and not trip breaker #2 or #6. This can happen when you feed one receptacle to another, and then you get two circuits connected through 1 receptacle. Many times this happens when you have a table light that is controlled by a wall switch, and they mess it all up!
Good luck with your project!
Thank you. I’m not roughing in but this helps explain what all those wires are for when I am installing a switch for light or fan.
Easy to follow, easy to understand, simple basic instructions makes for a great learning experience. Great video.
Another excellent video. I've been using the Wago connectors for a while now instead of the twist caps and prefer the space savings in the box. Long-term I think they will perform better as any changes in the box won't require untwisting wires and having to shorten them to remove the damage from the twist. They also save time.
I agree that the Wagos are convenient if there is a chance you will be adding or subtracting wires from a junction box especially when field conditions require a change of plans. For example, I just added 12/3 to an outlet box to power a switch for undercabinet lights. And the video showed a great applicaton for Wagos to test the switch circuit by simulating the switch being on. Another great application is using the new inline Wago to lengthen a short wire.
My problem with Wagos is that it is easy for the levers to accidently open when folding wires into the box and the wires don't always seat if you are not careful. If space is not an issue, I may remove the Wagos and replace them with wire nuts before folding the wire into the box. If space is an issue, or if I decide to keep the Wago, I tape the levers down before folding.
Nice job, loved your presentation on DIY wiring. Learned quite a lot with your video!
Thank you, keep up the good work!
Great job on how you present the information to the audience. I'm a fan and you have earned another subscriber. Researching this stuff to run my own electric into my soon to be constructed workshop. I have yet to see any video that takes you through the complete setup from the breaker panel to connecting lights, switches, receptacles and fans. I will keep looking.
Great video. Your explanations are clear and easy to understand. I look forward to your other videos.
What a great instructor you are. You seem to cover all the bases.
Open an amazon store and get paid for your expertise and videos. Thanks for making these. They are very helpful.
Thank you so much. You have such excellent habits and systematic ways of doing the job. I learned a lot!
15:04, Thought or suggestion: Well, it'd be great if you went ahead and installed the 2 switches for the sake of demonstration - pretending about drywall of course.
This was by far the best video on this.
great video, thanks for sharing. I'm about to swap out y bath fan that has 'the fan on one switch, and the dimmer/light on the other.
I love your videos. I find them thorough and easy to understand.
Thank u for the closeups or zooming and the detailed explanation, heads up and time. Will certainly subscribe
6:00 if I’m not mistaken you could make your own greeny wire nut by just drilling a small hole in the top of a normal wire but if you need one in a pinch or don’t want a huge pack from a small job.
Depends or your nut. Some work some dont. Idk if code would allow though.
@@turboflush I don't see why code wouldn't allow it if the factory greeny does it like that, unless the greeny is banned. It would only be the wrong color but depending on the wire going to it any electrician should know what it is.
@@FishFind3000 You can't modify the way something is manufactured. An inspector could fail it. The NEC 2020 says: "110.3 (B) Installation and Use. Equipment that is listed, labeled, or both shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling."
Won't be the risk to modify the part.
@@illestofdemall13 true.. But the ground is usually at the back. They may not catch it.
Ben you did excellent on this one (not that my opinion matters) but in all aspects you nailed it, yes you are beyond what’s required but doing a lot for future is what separates the true craftsman from everyone else. especially liked the staple requirements 👍. Informational note many blue plastic boxes for new work don’t actually have a clamping mechanism it’s more of a knockout...very common, on new builds..
You're from which country, am also into electrical
I wondered why the green caps had holes in them 🤭
Nice....
Well informed and well explained video. I do have a question in regard to installing a bathroom exhaust fan with a light. Do have any videos that show how to add a bathroom exhaust fan switch to an existing light switch? So I would like to add another switch in my bathroom that will control the exhaust fan. Can I piggyback off the existing light switch? Thanks in advance
Thank you so much for this video. I recently installed a bathroom fan and was able to wire it today after watching your video.
Excellent video. I'd use a 2 port Wago lever nut for the unused neutral pigtails.
Excellent channel Ben. Not rough in related but I really like to install fan timer switches with ten minute run time up to an hour run time to help get rid of shower humidity to help prevent mildew. Not sure if I trust the humidity sensor switches to run long enough.
I use the Edwards timer myself. Considering we now know that, in Canada, the shower moisture penetrates the drywall and condenses on the poly sheet when it is cold out, and then can drip back in when it warms up, causing black mold on the drywall. The timer lets the occupant leave the fan on for an hour after a shower while they head out to work, etc. It saves coming home at night to find a fan still running. The hour of fan seems to vent the moisture nicely.
I have went to using humidity sensor switch as my step kids won't turn the fan on, also installing one on my rental.
The neutral wires look into using wagos or the ideal push ins I grabbed a bag of the 4 port push ins those where a great time saver and using 2 of them was less space than a orange wirenut. I'm really starting to phase out wirenuts over the wagos and the ideal pushins especially for ground wires with multi feeds in a j-box where separating them for testing is so much easier
An hvac guy came and did some service on my unit I wired in with Wago's... first the apprentice said "what the hell is this?" Then the lead guy said something like "those are telephone connectors" Haha.
@@sparks6666 I cld see it. I just started using em so I w
Well explained it .I watched so many videos but this one was the perfect one . Thanks so much 🙏
Hello, I just subcribed to your channel now,,, I 'm an industry electrian, I hope someday can go to usa to work this, cheers from Dominican Republic...
Great video and I did subscribe-I’m in the process of adding a bathroom to my house so this will come in very handy.
Awesome thank you 2nd video of yours that I really needed to finish my basement!
Wiring in a standby generator would be a good vid....real good channel....
Check the videos. It’s in there already
That's great thank you.
The way ben explains it makes it easier to follow!!
@@rodgerhatfield3068 ok thanks!....would love to put a generator in that will run 100% everything for the house....I think preferably that runs off nat gas.....thanks again...
I agree with andy. Per haps you could save on a couple safe off nuts if you just cut a 12" com pigtail strip both ends and insert them in your com bundle. Then just roll them into the box and if there is a future need all they need do is cut the com loop in half and use as needed. But I am splitting hairs. Beautiful work as usual.
OOps Andy H... Sorry Andy
Interesting how you wire up in America compared to here in Australia and the UK which are similar. We wire bathroom fans and heater lamps to the light circuit of 10 amps 240v. A dedicated lighting circuit is often used in larger builds to bathrooms only. I like the boxes even though we don't see boxes used at the stitch points over here in domestic builds.
In Europe many people use washing machines in their bathrooms (often illegally cause distance from bath/shower to electric appliances should be at least 2 foot, but people install them close to bath), so 10A circuit is very small and bathroom requires two circuits. In large European bathrooms some people organise saunas, which requires 3-phase electric power. In America quarter is powered with high voltage and each consumer has dedicated transformer, but in Europe districts have common transformer and such saunas in bathroom sometimes cause voltage drop, especially in historical districts.
I was looking for instant hot water heater until I was told 60Amp service is required for electric units or run gas
We passed on instant hot water maybe loop back system we had old house
Wow no boxes I would love to see that !!!!!!
I appreciate your strong physical connection before twisting on the wire nuts, looks like a best practice. I am currently troubleshooting a switch that turns on 2 lights, only the first light from the switch turns on. I have continuity from one fixture to the next. I only have voltage on the first fixture. All of the light fixtures have wire feeds with black twisted to white which is foreign to me. Perplexed.
How do u test to determine the hot wire
Ben, excellent videos keep them coming thank for sharing your experience, fantastic 👍
Hey I've seen a couple of your videos and I love how you take it slow and explain very well. But I watched a different video with you wiring a 4 gang box and you told your friend that all of the neutrals are not supposed to be connected because they're different circuits but in this one you did. So if I'm wiring a 3 or 4 gang box with one power supply coming in are all the neutrals supposed to be connected for all the switches? also would I be able to jump another hot wire from a box like in this video to another box with a single pole switch.I'd really love to see a video with you showing step by step of wiring everything together in a deep junction box in a attic for lights and fans, 3way switches etc. Just to go more in depth a little. And by the way I'm gonna subscribe
I have an outlet that’s reading open neutral. Pretty sure the double light switch that on the line is whats wired wrong that causing it. However I’m only my second week into an electrical helper. I can’t follow this but it has helped me
Your white/blue wire, (wire that has no current) is not properly connected. Either its loose or not properly connected to where its making contact with the connectors to the light switch or wall plug/outlet to where it completes the current.
Love your content. Would like to see a video on how to install a surge protector on a 50 amp sub panel in a detached garage. Presently I have found no videos on RUclips. Thanks.
Yes a surge protector, I have blinking lights and on street with 10 homes with one feed from electrical grid line to one transformer feeds total street
I am think surgery protector might minimize the blink in lights
There have been times when you’ve used a 14 gauge green insulated wire in creating the grounded connection from the device to the mechanical ground. Should a person always be using the 12 gauge green insulated wire with a 12 gauge 20 amp circuit?
Excellent explanation Benji ... Good vid as usual ...
Thanks for explaining it in detail. Loved it man. Keep rocking 👍cheers
Volunteering with habitat they drywall everything first then we wire the boxes with switches and outlets
I have two wires in the ceiling of my bathroom going to my ceiling fan from a double switch and the other comes from the light fixture. The power starts at the switch and I need to know how to wire the new ceiling fan in as well as the light fixture12/3 to 12/3
I have been watching all your videos and have learned a lot. Thank you!
Very good video! For 2 switch, what about if I want to add fan and lite to same switch?
Great video. Very thorough. All the detailed explanations are spot on.I like to also write the "light/fan" on the edge of the sheeting before putting it in the box so it's visible inside on entry. I don't do the sheeting sleeve as you have done. I liked the stripper with the sheeting cutter, but I'm not sure I want to get a stripper. It's such a hassle pinch tearing it with the linesmen.
While it is code now to have a neutral present at every switch box...adding the pigtails for them when not needed is unnecessary. You have them capped off in the back in case it's needed for a future change, but since you're using regular switches adding the pigtails is just taking up more space in the box. Plus more of a chance to have a wire nut come off and cause a short. Yes, it's convenient to have the pigtails ready to go if they're eventually needed but the cons far outweigh that. Otherwise great job and very neat work. Union apprentice electrician here from LA and enjoy your vids.
Benjamin tells us that the more you manipulate copper wire, the stiffer it becomes. He likes to connect the wires and push them into the box ONE TIME. That is HIS particular custom. You are not wrong but he - and I - really don't like pulling wires out and reconnecting them.
As an apprentice, please make sure you are reading the code carefully.
Does 90.4 really say that ahj can toss out all the NEC rules?
Does 110.3.(B). Really demand we follow the manufacturer's instructions?
Does 404.2.(C). Really have about 6 exceptions to the, "neutral in every box"?
And is it ahj or NEC that lets us not fill those 1/4 in holes in 4 x 4 metal boxes? They are un-used openings.
Your friends and family are probably already looking to you as an expert. Work hard, be that guy.
I agree
@@ricoludovici2825it’s not a big deal to pull out a splice and add a pigtail to it, done it hundreds of times
Towards the end of the video, you wired the hot wires simulating a switch being turned on so you could check for a breaker trip. You mentioned going to drywall next. Would it be good to check for a trip before drywall or is that overkill?
Fantastic video. Just what I was looking for with no b.s.
What was that wire stripping tool you used for the insulation on the white and black wires? Those were awesome.
Excellent video Ben. I would just add a ladder diagram to get more information. Thanks
Subscribed only because we have the same automatic wire strippers😂. Great work!
at @1:30 you set up a receptacle box below. As you mentioned the power comes from down below (basement or first floor) and it meets that receptacle and you mentioned GFCI thereafter therefore I assumed that receptacle will be GFCI. Does any incoming connection need to meet a GFCI receptacle then distribute per code when working in wet areas?. I'm working on a setup similar to that and I need to run power from an outside receptacle that is not GCFI. I'd assume that the first connection in the bathroom needs to be GFCI. I'm not an electrician but I'm familiar with the theory of electricity and magnetism, digital systems, and ac/cd circuits, Ohms, Gauss etc.
Excellent video, subscribed.
Your description left me thinking about to many code sections and mentally kicking myself to remind me that each jurisdiction can select different rules, even throw the code book out.
So, I would encourage you to call in a local electrician. Not to do the work, but to "consult" for you on easy fixes and best practices. Remind them that all you need is the pathway to go so you can do it and give them a little cash for looking and recommending. Permits might be required, they may have fought your same problem before and can give you the playbook.
Also, I am not an inspector but find them very helpful and eager to have safe buildings. A call there might get you the rules before you do anything. Finding out your cable was the wrong type before you hang sheetrock might save you more than if the pros did it once.
I would like a mention of controtter that is used in bath fan and wi fi for music
Can you let me know what make/model number the automatic wire strippers are. I clicked the link and seems that the link is no longer active. Also - your favorite tools on amazon does not have it listed.
Can you connect these in some way in the box to run the fan by itself at times and simultaneously with the shower light when it is on?
Benjamin, I wanted to rough wire up for a ceiling fan and light on separate switches, one a dimmer and the other a single pole in one of the rooms. How many wires do I need?
For BTW for all your excellent videos.
Sir, which brand of wire stripper you are using, what ever we bought they are not pulling the wire sleeve.
+1 for not changing anything. Excellent job. Don't forget I'm still looking for a video on installing a 0-10 volt dimmer switch to multiple LED style florescent lights fixtures.
Typically the power pack will require you’re regular line voltage connect as well as a 18/2 LVT cable. Each fixture will receive a 120v whip to supply power and a 18/2 wire going in and out using the grey and purple leads
Looks great. I would consider covering the wire with a piece of paper, to keep texture and paint off. I hate wires covered with paint and texture.
Hi BenI really enjoyed your Video learn slots.
Thanks
Bill
Ray, you can also cover with a baggie (Ziploc, etc) or plastic sheeting, like cut offs from masking the windows for painting. I agree with keeping the wiring clean with other trades following afterwards.🙂
Sooooo what’s dosage of adderall are you prescribed
What tool
did you use to cut the cable sheath? Thank you.
Your rough in videos teach well, but I wish you had videos that showed installation of the switches/outlets etc. What conductors attach to which screws may not be intuitive to the DIYer. Do you have follow up videos like that? If so, please let us know. You could refer to them when you end the rough in videos and get more views/likes/subscribers!! Thanks.
Im part of the 11.6% that did subscribe!
You’re not keeping that box hot during the drywall install correct? Just checking to ensure the power to the lights and fan is good before drywall?
@10:45 this is where I needed your help.
I wouldn’t change a damn thing. Beautiful
Here in Germany I switch the Light in the Bathroom, and the Fan turns on 30 sec later, when I turn off the Light the Fan turns off after 5 min.
Funny hazardous Wirenuts.
What explanation step by step easy to understand, thank you very much for your time
Excellent clean work my friend!
Hi Ben, great video. So for regular switches the white wires are not used and just capped off in the box?
I would have used Wago connectors instead of wire nuts. I love your wire organization.
Do you have a video showing how to wire the switches?
Hey Ben, Thanks for great video do you have the finished video after the rough in
exelent work very clean and professional
Very helpful video, thank you so much!
Very nice job, thank you very much. 👍
Thank you so much for your good explanation, but I have a question! after twisted together the neutral wires, Why did you put two neutral wires? is switch need to neutral wire? I think it doesn't need, Usually a switch has 3 terminals; one for ground, one for power entering and one for power out, Am I right? please answer me I became confused. thanks brother.
The neutral pigtails are there if the owner wants to add smart switches later that require a neutral wire. He mentioned this.
Great video! The only thing I would probably done different is use crimp copper sleeve (Buchanan) to hold the ground wires together and eliminate the “greenie” and I would leave the black wire power in wire a bit longer to cut the insulation twice, one loop for the first switch and the 4” down the wire to make a loop for the second switch thereby eliminating the another wire connector. Keep up the great work!!
Excellent clear instructions! Subscribed.
I'm a noob and curious. Love the video and hope to DIY one day. Why did you choose 12 gauge wire over 14 gauge?
Excellent showing.
I've watched a few of your videos that I've subscribed a long time ago.
My question is: I want to wire the light and the fan onto the same motion light circuit. (Both on and off same time.)Even though there separate units. (Light is over vanity and sink. Exhaust fan is a standalone item added completely as there was a window before with no fan) 20 amp circuit.
Not to make matters worse there was no GFCI before (older home) I installed that a while ago. But shouldn't they be on a different circuit so I'm not standing in the dark if the wife hair dryer trips it. ( I'm just curious about that) I don't have to change that if it involves a lot more work.
Add another switch for a new led water rated light for over the shower.
Upgraded to a 2 gang box total.
Connect the fan a light wires and pigtail to switch. I don't think that this an always desirable setup.
On your second question the answer is yes, but it had to be roughed in that way. Most likely an enormous job at this point, not worth it.
Subscribed my friend very good the way you explain on how to do electric work
Love that wire stripper.
Could you leave the 2 neutral pigtails for possible future use connected as a loop instead of cutting and wire nuts on the ends? Then you could just cut the loop to create the pigtails if you need them.
Yes
So if gfci trips lights go out also?
what is the cause of hamming sound & vibration in3 phase contactor.
You are the pro werito,, good job!!!
Thanks Ben 😊👍
What is your opinion on wago lever nuts versus traditional wire nuts?
Can I get power from a bathroom gfci for the vanity light and bath fan ?
Technically, yes. But in an electrical ground fault issue, you lose lighting if you use the load side. This is why you should never do it. Take it from the feed side (pigtail)
Hi I asked you a question about the cell range extender on that video I don't know if you can see that
Great work and video my friend 👏
What kind of stripper you use to remove the yellow shielding? Pleas
Will you use 15 amp switches?