"Standard height is 48" to top of the box" Best tip so far on all the countless wiring of electrical I have seen. Thanks for taking a second to include that.
I found this video very clear to follow and very instructional for an amateur like me. I was able to understand why I was having some issues with a timer switch that I want to install. Thanks
That was an excellent demonstration of twisting 4 #12 gauge wires. I need to practice that more as I seem to make a good looking spiral only about 70% of the time. My limited experience tells me that connecting 3 or more 12 gauge wires makes pre twisting mandatory. Then again, I could not worry about it and just use Wago 221 lever nuts. I think they are the gold standard currently.
Your video was extremely helpful. I put a half bath in the basement and had to run a new line for the ceiling fan and light. After watching the video I had no problem putting the fan and light combo in. Thanks
Another excellent video. I've been using the Wago connectors for a while now instead of the twist caps and prefer the space savings in the box. Long-term I think they will perform better as any changes in the box won't require untwisting wires and having to shorten them to remove the damage from the twist. They also save time.
I agree that the Wagos are convenient if there is a chance you will be adding or subtracting wires from a junction box especially when field conditions require a change of plans. For example, I just added 12/3 to an outlet box to power a switch for undercabinet lights. And the video showed a great applicaton for Wagos to test the switch circuit by simulating the switch being on. Another great application is using the new inline Wago to lengthen a short wire. My problem with Wagos is that it is easy for the levers to accidently open when folding wires into the box and the wires don't always seat if you are not careful. If space is not an issue, I may remove the Wagos and replace them with wire nuts before folding the wire into the box. If space is an issue, or if I decide to keep the Wago, I tape the levers down before folding.
I was watching your "Live sink" and water fixture that is causing your touchless sensor to show live power. Reminded me of another place, where that happened in a bar. They had a un-used roof top spinning sign, (1970's). and when that circuit breaker was on, then the whole place - every metal stud or wall panel, they where all "Hot". By disconnecting that one wire, it all went back to normal. Easy way to discover the problem is shut off 1 CB at a time, until the fault goes away. In some homes, you need to shut off all of the breakers, then turn on 1 at a time, until the fault shows up. Then shut off that breaker, and turn on the rest, one at a time, until the fault comes back. So now you have 2 circuit breakers that someplace in that home are connected together. Good luck finding that problem. Yes I have seen it in a couple of homes. It is actually far more danger than you might think. So say that if CB #2 is on, the circuit is energized and rated at 20 amps. Shut off #2 and turn on #6, and now both circuits have power, and the #6 breaker can also feed 20 amps into the same circuit, without tripping. So in reality, you could be pulling 35 amps and not trip breaker #2 or #6. This can happen when you feed one receptacle to another, and then you get two circuits connected through 1 receptacle. Many times this happens when you have a table light that is controlled by a wall switch, and they mess it all up! Good luck with your project!
Ben you did excellent on this one (not that my opinion matters) but in all aspects you nailed it, yes you are beyond what’s required but doing a lot for future is what separates the true craftsman from everyone else. especially liked the staple requirements 👍. Informational note many blue plastic boxes for new work don’t actually have a clamping mechanism it’s more of a knockout...very common, on new builds..
Great job on how you present the information to the audience. I'm a fan and you have earned another subscriber. Researching this stuff to run my own electric into my soon to be constructed workshop. I have yet to see any video that takes you through the complete setup from the breaker panel to connecting lights, switches, receptacles and fans. I will keep looking.
Well informed and well explained video. I do have a question in regard to installing a bathroom exhaust fan with a light. Do have any videos that show how to add a bathroom exhaust fan switch to an existing light switch? So I would like to add another switch in my bathroom that will control the exhaust fan. Can I piggyback off the existing light switch? Thanks in advance
Hey I've seen a couple of your videos and I love how you take it slow and explain very well. But I watched a different video with you wiring a 4 gang box and you told your friend that all of the neutrals are not supposed to be connected because they're different circuits but in this one you did. So if I'm wiring a 3 or 4 gang box with one power supply coming in are all the neutrals supposed to be connected for all the switches? also would I be able to jump another hot wire from a box like in this video to another box with a single pole switch.I'd really love to see a video with you showing step by step of wiring everything together in a deep junction box in a attic for lights and fans, 3way switches etc. Just to go more in depth a little. And by the way I'm gonna subscribe
When I lived in a home in Garden Grove, I wanted to install a ceiling fan in my bedroom, without opening the walls, and put in the three speed fan switch and light control where my existing light switch is. So I have access to the attic above, and put in a box near the light switch. The wire going to the switch was then connected to one of the romex that was going to the switch, and to the wire leaving the switch to the next one. so I now have 3 extra wires. It made hooking up the light easy. I had three romex going to that switch, in from the circuit breaker, out to the next light switch, and out to the existing ceiling light fixture. It's been 30 years, so not all is remembered right, but I did get it done without needing to install more wires. For the living room, I put in a steel box in the attic, nailed to a 2X6, and then cut a hole in the drywall below that, and put 1 romex to that box. Then put in a ceiling fan that has a built in remote control, so easy! Glad I did that, and every new ceiling fan after that one. I put it on the same circuit breaker as my furnace, and that has plenty of extra power before reaching the 15 amp limit.
While it is code now to have a neutral present at every switch box...adding the pigtails for them when not needed is unnecessary. You have them capped off in the back in case it's needed for a future change, but since you're using regular switches adding the pigtails is just taking up more space in the box. Plus more of a chance to have a wire nut come off and cause a short. Yes, it's convenient to have the pigtails ready to go if they're eventually needed but the cons far outweigh that. Otherwise great job and very neat work. Union apprentice electrician here from LA and enjoy your vids.
Benjamin tells us that the more you manipulate copper wire, the stiffer it becomes. He likes to connect the wires and push them into the box ONE TIME. That is HIS particular custom. You are not wrong but he - and I - really don't like pulling wires out and reconnecting them.
As an apprentice, please make sure you are reading the code carefully. Does 90.4 really say that ahj can toss out all the NEC rules? Does 110.3.(B). Really demand we follow the manufacturer's instructions? Does 404.2.(C). Really have about 6 exceptions to the, "neutral in every box"? And is it ahj or NEC that lets us not fill those 1/4 in holes in 4 x 4 metal boxes? They are un-used openings. Your friends and family are probably already looking to you as an expert. Work hard, be that guy.
Excellent channel Ben. Not rough in related but I really like to install fan timer switches with ten minute run time up to an hour run time to help get rid of shower humidity to help prevent mildew. Not sure if I trust the humidity sensor switches to run long enough.
I use the Edwards timer myself. Considering we now know that, in Canada, the shower moisture penetrates the drywall and condenses on the poly sheet when it is cold out, and then can drip back in when it warms up, causing black mold on the drywall. The timer lets the occupant leave the fan on for an hour after a shower while they head out to work, etc. It saves coming home at night to find a fan still running. The hour of fan seems to vent the moisture nicely.
Benjamin, I wanted to rough wire up for a ceiling fan and light on separate switches, one a dimmer and the other a single pole in one of the rooms. How many wires do I need? For BTW for all your excellent videos.
Hello, I just subcribed to your channel now,,, I 'm an industry electrian, I hope someday can go to usa to work this, cheers from Dominican Republic...
Thank you so much for your good explanation, but I have a question! after twisted together the neutral wires, Why did you put two neutral wires? is switch need to neutral wire? I think it doesn't need, Usually a switch has 3 terminals; one for ground, one for power entering and one for power out, Am I right? please answer me I became confused. thanks brother.
I appreciate your strong physical connection before twisting on the wire nuts, looks like a best practice. I am currently troubleshooting a switch that turns on 2 lights, only the first light from the switch turns on. I have continuity from one fixture to the next. I only have voltage on the first fixture. All of the light fixtures have wire feeds with black twisted to white which is foreign to me. Perplexed.
Great video. Very thorough. All the detailed explanations are spot on.I like to also write the "light/fan" on the edge of the sheeting before putting it in the box so it's visible inside on entry. I don't do the sheeting sleeve as you have done. I liked the stripper with the sheeting cutter, but I'm not sure I want to get a stripper. It's such a hassle pinch tearing it with the linesmen.
at @1:30 you set up a receptacle box below. As you mentioned the power comes from down below (basement or first floor) and it meets that receptacle and you mentioned GFCI thereafter therefore I assumed that receptacle will be GFCI. Does any incoming connection need to meet a GFCI receptacle then distribute per code when working in wet areas?. I'm working on a setup similar to that and I need to run power from an outside receptacle that is not GCFI. I'd assume that the first connection in the bathroom needs to be GFCI. I'm not an electrician but I'm familiar with the theory of electricity and magnetism, digital systems, and ac/cd circuits, Ohms, Gauss etc. Excellent video, subscribed.
Your description left me thinking about to many code sections and mentally kicking myself to remind me that each jurisdiction can select different rules, even throw the code book out. So, I would encourage you to call in a local electrician. Not to do the work, but to "consult" for you on easy fixes and best practices. Remind them that all you need is the pathway to go so you can do it and give them a little cash for looking and recommending. Permits might be required, they may have fought your same problem before and can give you the playbook. Also, I am not an inspector but find them very helpful and eager to have safe buildings. A call there might get you the rules before you do anything. Finding out your cable was the wrong type before you hang sheetrock might save you more than if the pros did it once.
Interesting how you wire up in America compared to here in Australia and the UK which are similar. We wire bathroom fans and heater lamps to the light circuit of 10 amps 240v. A dedicated lighting circuit is often used in larger builds to bathrooms only. I like the boxes even though we don't see boxes used at the stitch points over here in domestic builds.
In Europe many people use washing machines in their bathrooms (often illegally cause distance from bath/shower to electric appliances should be at least 2 foot, but people install them close to bath), so 10A circuit is very small and bathroom requires two circuits. In large European bathrooms some people organise saunas, which requires 3-phase electric power. In America quarter is powered with high voltage and each consumer has dedicated transformer, but in Europe districts have common transformer and such saunas in bathroom sometimes cause voltage drop, especially in historical districts.
I was looking for instant hot water heater until I was told 60Amp service is required for electric units or run gas We passed on instant hot water maybe loop back system we had old house
There have been times when you’ve used a 14 gauge green insulated wire in creating the grounded connection from the device to the mechanical ground. Should a person always be using the 12 gauge green insulated wire with a 12 gauge 20 amp circuit?
I agree with andy. Per haps you could save on a couple safe off nuts if you just cut a 12" com pigtail strip both ends and insert them in your com bundle. Then just roll them into the box and if there is a future need all they need do is cut the com loop in half and use as needed. But I am splitting hairs. Beautiful work as usual.
Love your content. Would like to see a video on how to install a surge protector on a 50 amp sub panel in a detached garage. Presently I have found no videos on RUclips. Thanks.
Yes a surge protector, I have blinking lights and on street with 10 homes with one feed from electrical grid line to one transformer feeds total street I am think surgery protector might minimize the blink in lights
I have an outlet that’s reading open neutral. Pretty sure the double light switch that on the line is whats wired wrong that causing it. However I’m only my second week into an electrical helper. I can’t follow this but it has helped me
Your white/blue wire, (wire that has no current) is not properly connected. Either its loose or not properly connected to where its making contact with the connectors to the light switch or wall plug/outlet to where it completes the current.
Ray, you can also cover with a baggie (Ziploc, etc) or plastic sheeting, like cut offs from masking the windows for painting. I agree with keeping the wiring clean with other trades following afterwards.🙂
The neutral wires look into using wagos or the ideal push ins I grabbed a bag of the 4 port push ins those where a great time saver and using 2 of them was less space than a orange wirenut. I'm really starting to phase out wirenuts over the wagos and the ideal pushins especially for ground wires with multi feeds in a j-box where separating them for testing is so much easier
An hvac guy came and did some service on my unit I wired in with Wago's... first the apprentice said "what the hell is this?" Then the lead guy said something like "those are telephone connectors" Haha.
Can you let me know what make/model number the automatic wire strippers are. I clicked the link and seems that the link is no longer active. Also - your favorite tools on amazon does not have it listed.
I've watched a few of your videos that I've subscribed a long time ago. My question is: I want to wire the light and the fan onto the same motion light circuit. (Both on and off same time.)Even though there separate units. (Light is over vanity and sink. Exhaust fan is a standalone item added completely as there was a window before with no fan) 20 amp circuit. Not to make matters worse there was no GFCI before (older home) I installed that a while ago. But shouldn't they be on a different circuit so I'm not standing in the dark if the wife hair dryer trips it. ( I'm just curious about that) I don't have to change that if it involves a lot more work. Add another switch for a new led water rated light for over the shower. Upgraded to a 2 gang box total.
Connect the fan a light wires and pigtail to switch. I don't think that this an always desirable setup. On your second question the answer is yes, but it had to be roughed in that way. Most likely an enormous job at this point, not worth it.
I had a question when placing the switches can you get away with placing 2 standard single pole light switches? or does it have to be a two 3 way switches?
Your rough in videos teach well, but I wish you had videos that showed installation of the switches/outlets etc. What conductors attach to which screws may not be intuitive to the DIYer. Do you have follow up videos like that? If so, please let us know. You could refer to them when you end the rough in videos and get more views/likes/subscribers!! Thanks.
Great video! The only thing I would probably done different is use crimp copper sleeve (Buchanan) to hold the ground wires together and eliminate the “greenie” and I would leave the black wire power in wire a bit longer to cut the insulation twice, one loop for the first switch and the 4” down the wire to make a loop for the second switch thereby eliminating the another wire connector. Keep up the great work!!
Hey Ben, I have a question. In my apartments the connected the fan to run all the time! This are new apartments and I frankly don’t want to pay any extra to run them 24/7. Wha do you think they did to do this? And all the apartments are the same! I’m not an electrician! I can turn off the breaker of the bathrooms light and fans turn off. I turn them off during the day time when we leave. Just drives me crazy! I’m thinking of hiring an electrician to come and fix this! Thanks Oh my son is the gamer! I’m Oscar.
@@rodgerhatfield3068 ok thanks!....would love to put a generator in that will run 100% everything for the house....I think preferably that runs off nat gas.....thanks again...
Ben; You do a very good job. Your explanations are clear and easy to understand. As an Electrical Instructor, the only thing I would say you are missing is Safety Glasses.
Excellent demonstration! Enjoy your videos. Have they made any cheap, throw away electrical box covers yet? I see so many boxes filled with drywall mud or spray texture.
Sir, unchanged for the 2020 NEC section 300.14 in the last sentence talks about the opening of a outlet, junction or switch point is less than 8 inches in any dimension, each conductor shall be long enough to extend at least 3 inches outside the opening. Was that the section you were talking about? I am studying for a test so if I got that wrong, if it must be 6 inches, please let me know the code section.
Neutrals are NEVER broken. They must provide a direct path to the panel. Only the hot/black side gets the switch. Thus, they are all connected -- on the same circuit. If you have two different circuits, they may share a neutral if both circuits disconnect at the same time with a switch clamp in the service panel.
It depends. Are you sourcing your power from an existing circuit or are you adding a new circuit and breaker? If it an existing circuit and it's 20 amp, then you must use 12 gauge. If the circuit is 15 amp, then it's your choice. Keep in mind, continuing with 12 gauge in a 15 amp circuit that already has 14 gauge wire will not add safety. In both cases you need to consider the additional power draw. If it's a new circuit and the anticipated load on the entire circuit will be 12 amps maximum, 14 gauge and a 15 breaker would be ok. My recommendation in this case would be to use 12 gauge as greater safety margin. You can use a 15 or 20 amp breaker which ever is appropriate. Use a 15 amp "spec grade" duplex receptacle regardless of the breaker rating. A 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit is a code violation and a 20 amp duplex receptacle is completely unnecessary even if the circuit is 20 amps.
6:00 if I’m not mistaken you could make your own greeny wire nut by just drilling a small hole in the top of a normal wire but if you need one in a pinch or don’t want a huge pack from a small job.
@@turboflush I don't see why code wouldn't allow it if the factory greeny does it like that, unless the greeny is banned. It would only be the wrong color but depending on the wire going to it any electrician should know what it is.
@@FishFind3000 You can't modify the way something is manufactured. An inspector could fail it. The NEC 2020 says: "110.3 (B) Installation and Use. Equipment that is listed, labeled, or both shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling."
Could you leave the 2 neutral pigtails for possible future use connected as a loop instead of cutting and wire nuts on the ends? Then you could just cut the loop to create the pigtails if you need them.
So glad to see your stripping your wires before putting them in the box. Also glad your using the old cover insulation to mark your wires. You are improving. I have one question. You leave 6 in of wire outside the box. Where does the code say that ? In my code book it says 6 in. of conductor total. I do enjoy your videos . With all the wire and wingnuts i don't know how you get the switches in. what is the depth of your boxes ?
I just prefer a bit more wire. At most it's only about 2 or 3 inches more wire per conductor. You are correct that 6 inches is the minimum. Maximum is 12 inches for the purpose of calculating box fill capacity. It comes down to preference to some level.
@@BenjaminSahlstromOk I see why you are doing this. I just find with some devices that take up more room it get harder to put them in with all that wire and connectors. I always leave a 6 to 8 in. loop before the box. That way if you do need more wire down the road you can always pull it in. Keep up the good work. I really like how you take pride in your work. Just showing you how some others do it also.
I personally agree with Ben on this one, and technically it’s 6 measured from box entry point..300.14, but if it is a box less than 8in in any dimension then it has to at least stick past the edge 3 inches....so for Ben’s box which is approx 2.5” deep 6 would be minimum. If he had a 4in deep box like a big Junction box he would have to have 7” minimum.
He did get those unsheathed cables into the box fairly easily. In my experience, an unsheathed cable always seems to snag on the integrated clamps of the box before I can pull in the required 1/4 inch of sheath. So I have always just unsheathed (very carefully!) the cable from within the box using a utility knife. I've done it enough times to have consistent results. Doesn't look as pretty as those square cuts of sheath with that stripper tool, though.
I have two wires in the ceiling of my bathroom going to my ceiling fan from a double switch and the other comes from the light fixture. The power starts at the switch and I need to know how to wire the new ceiling fan in as well as the light fixture12/3 to 12/3
You do not need AFCI protection for a bathroom that has a dedicated 20 amp circuit just for each bathroom, you can if you want, but you do not need a dual function breaker, just gfi protection so the bath plug is gfi protected. I would just use a gfi receptical to meet code, instead of a gfi breaker, its about $30 cheaper. Some day afci may be required for the bathroom. Great channel, keep it up!
I think I heard that the most recent NEC calls for AFCI. It's important to remember though that NEC is optional and most states use NEC codes that are a decade or more older than the most up to date NEC iteration
Box looks a little crowded from my view maybe you should explain how you sized the box, you could get two regular switches in the box but getting a wifi enabled one or a GFI in there would be a stretch especially with #12. wire.
Is it Code to continue with 12/2 to all devices in a 20A circuit? Obviously, receptacle can have large and variable loads and it makes sense to wire them for the circuit's maximum current capability, but It seems a bit overkill to route 12g wire to fixtures like lights and fans. I believe my bathrooms use 20A GFI receptacle and a separate 15A Lighting /Fan circuit.
ALL cable on a circuit needs to be sized for the CB or larger cable/wire, Period! 20amp CB, ALL 12 awg. Any smaller cable/wire than max circuit amperage is against code and dangerous.
"Standard height is 48" to top of the box" Best tip so far on all the countless wiring of electrical I have seen. Thanks for taking a second to include that.
I personally roughed my house at 42" to bottom, because children and we have stuff in our hands often.
This dude has some of the best videos on electrical outlet there. Nice work man
I found this video very clear to follow and very instructional for an amateur like me. I was able to understand why I was having some issues with a timer switch that I want to install. Thanks
That was an excellent demonstration of twisting 4 #12 gauge wires. I need to practice that more as I seem to make a good looking spiral only about 70% of the time. My limited experience tells me that connecting 3 or more 12 gauge wires makes pre twisting mandatory. Then again, I could not worry about it and just use Wago 221 lever nuts. I think they are the gold standard currently.
Your video was extremely helpful. I put a half bath in the basement and had to run a new line for the ceiling fan and light. After watching the video I had no problem putting the fan and light combo in. Thanks
I like ur instruction..as a retired educator I appreciate mastery
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Another excellent video. I've been using the Wago connectors for a while now instead of the twist caps and prefer the space savings in the box. Long-term I think they will perform better as any changes in the box won't require untwisting wires and having to shorten them to remove the damage from the twist. They also save time.
I agree that the Wagos are convenient if there is a chance you will be adding or subtracting wires from a junction box especially when field conditions require a change of plans. For example, I just added 12/3 to an outlet box to power a switch for undercabinet lights. And the video showed a great applicaton for Wagos to test the switch circuit by simulating the switch being on. Another great application is using the new inline Wago to lengthen a short wire.
My problem with Wagos is that it is easy for the levers to accidently open when folding wires into the box and the wires don't always seat if you are not careful. If space is not an issue, I may remove the Wagos and replace them with wire nuts before folding the wire into the box. If space is an issue, or if I decide to keep the Wago, I tape the levers down before folding.
I was watching your "Live sink" and water fixture that is causing your touchless sensor to show live power. Reminded me of another place, where that happened in a bar. They had a un-used roof top spinning sign, (1970's). and when that circuit breaker was on, then the whole place - every metal stud or wall panel, they where all "Hot". By disconnecting that one wire, it all went back to normal.
Easy way to discover the problem is shut off 1 CB at a time, until the fault goes away. In some homes, you need to shut off all of the breakers, then turn on 1 at a time, until the fault shows up. Then shut off that breaker, and turn on the rest, one at a time, until the fault comes back. So now you have 2 circuit breakers that someplace in that home are connected together. Good luck finding that problem. Yes I have seen it in a couple of homes. It is actually far more danger than you might think. So say that if CB #2 is on, the circuit is energized and rated at 20 amps. Shut off #2 and turn on #6, and now both circuits have power, and the #6 breaker can also feed 20 amps into the same circuit, without tripping. So in reality, you could be pulling 35 amps and not trip breaker #2 or #6. This can happen when you feed one receptacle to another, and then you get two circuits connected through 1 receptacle. Many times this happens when you have a table light that is controlled by a wall switch, and they mess it all up!
Good luck with your project!
Nice job, loved your presentation on DIY wiring. Learned quite a lot with your video!
Thank you, keep up the good work!
Ben you did excellent on this one (not that my opinion matters) but in all aspects you nailed it, yes you are beyond what’s required but doing a lot for future is what separates the true craftsman from everyone else. especially liked the staple requirements 👍. Informational note many blue plastic boxes for new work don’t actually have a clamping mechanism it’s more of a knockout...very common, on new builds..
You're from which country, am also into electrical
Great job on how you present the information to the audience. I'm a fan and you have earned another subscriber. Researching this stuff to run my own electric into my soon to be constructed workshop. I have yet to see any video that takes you through the complete setup from the breaker panel to connecting lights, switches, receptacles and fans. I will keep looking.
Well informed and well explained video. I do have a question in regard to installing a bathroom exhaust fan with a light. Do have any videos that show how to add a bathroom exhaust fan switch to an existing light switch? So I would like to add another switch in my bathroom that will control the exhaust fan. Can I piggyback off the existing light switch? Thanks in advance
Easy to follow, easy to understand, simple basic instructions makes for a great learning experience. Great video.
Great video. Your explanations are clear and easy to understand. I look forward to your other videos.
Hey I've seen a couple of your videos and I love how you take it slow and explain very well. But I watched a different video with you wiring a 4 gang box and you told your friend that all of the neutrals are not supposed to be connected because they're different circuits but in this one you did. So if I'm wiring a 3 or 4 gang box with one power supply coming in are all the neutrals supposed to be connected for all the switches? also would I be able to jump another hot wire from a box like in this video to another box with a single pole switch.I'd really love to see a video with you showing step by step of wiring everything together in a deep junction box in a attic for lights and fans, 3way switches etc. Just to go more in depth a little. And by the way I'm gonna subscribe
When I lived in a home in Garden Grove, I wanted to install a ceiling fan in my bedroom, without opening the walls, and put in the three speed fan switch and light control where my existing light switch is. So I have access to the attic above, and put in a box near the light switch. The wire going to the switch was then connected to one of the romex that was going to the switch, and to the wire leaving the switch to the next one. so I now have 3 extra wires. It made hooking up the light easy. I had three romex going to that switch, in from the circuit breaker, out to the next light switch, and out to the existing ceiling light fixture. It's been 30 years, so not all is remembered right, but I did get it done without needing to install more wires.
For the living room, I put in a steel box in the attic, nailed to a 2X6, and then cut a hole in the drywall below that, and put 1 romex to that box. Then put in a ceiling fan that has a built in remote control, so easy! Glad I did that, and every new ceiling fan after that one. I put it on the same circuit breaker as my furnace, and that has plenty of extra power before reaching the 15 amp limit.
What a great instructor you are. You seem to cover all the bases.
Thank u for the closeups or zooming and the detailed explanation, heads up and time. Will certainly subscribe
While it is code now to have a neutral present at every switch box...adding the pigtails for them when not needed is unnecessary. You have them capped off in the back in case it's needed for a future change, but since you're using regular switches adding the pigtails is just taking up more space in the box. Plus more of a chance to have a wire nut come off and cause a short. Yes, it's convenient to have the pigtails ready to go if they're eventually needed but the cons far outweigh that. Otherwise great job and very neat work. Union apprentice electrician here from LA and enjoy your vids.
Benjamin tells us that the more you manipulate copper wire, the stiffer it becomes. He likes to connect the wires and push them into the box ONE TIME. That is HIS particular custom. You are not wrong but he - and I - really don't like pulling wires out and reconnecting them.
As an apprentice, please make sure you are reading the code carefully.
Does 90.4 really say that ahj can toss out all the NEC rules?
Does 110.3.(B). Really demand we follow the manufacturer's instructions?
Does 404.2.(C). Really have about 6 exceptions to the, "neutral in every box"?
And is it ahj or NEC that lets us not fill those 1/4 in holes in 4 x 4 metal boxes? They are un-used openings.
Your friends and family are probably already looking to you as an expert. Work hard, be that guy.
I agree
@@ricoludovici2825it’s not a big deal to pull out a splice and add a pigtail to it, done it hundreds of times
I'm a noob and curious. Love the video and hope to DIY one day. Why did you choose 12 gauge wire over 14 gauge?
Open an amazon store and get paid for your expertise and videos. Thanks for making these. They are very helpful.
This was by far the best video on this.
Very good video! For 2 switch, what about if I want to add fan and lite to same switch?
Hi Ben, great video. So for regular switches the white wires are not used and just capped off in the box?
Excellent channel Ben. Not rough in related but I really like to install fan timer switches with ten minute run time up to an hour run time to help get rid of shower humidity to help prevent mildew. Not sure if I trust the humidity sensor switches to run long enough.
I use the Edwards timer myself. Considering we now know that, in Canada, the shower moisture penetrates the drywall and condenses on the poly sheet when it is cold out, and then can drip back in when it warms up, causing black mold on the drywall. The timer lets the occupant leave the fan on for an hour after a shower while they head out to work, etc. It saves coming home at night to find a fan still running. The hour of fan seems to vent the moisture nicely.
I have went to using humidity sensor switch as my step kids won't turn the fan on, also installing one on my rental.
Thank you so much. You have such excellent habits and systematic ways of doing the job. I learned a lot!
Excellent video. I'd use a 2 port Wago lever nut for the unused neutral pigtails.
You’re not keeping that box hot during the drywall install correct? Just checking to ensure the power to the lights and fan is good before drywall?
Great video and I did subscribe-I’m in the process of adding a bathroom to my house so this will come in very handy.
Benjamin, I wanted to rough wire up for a ceiling fan and light on separate switches, one a dimmer and the other a single pole in one of the rooms. How many wires do I need?
For BTW for all your excellent videos.
I love your videos. I find them thorough and easy to understand.
Hello, I just subcribed to your channel now,,, I 'm an industry electrian, I hope someday can go to usa to work this, cheers from Dominican Republic...
Thank you so much for your good explanation, but I have a question! after twisted together the neutral wires, Why did you put two neutral wires? is switch need to neutral wire? I think it doesn't need, Usually a switch has 3 terminals; one for ground, one for power entering and one for power out, Am I right? please answer me I became confused. thanks brother.
The neutral pigtails are there if the owner wants to add smart switches later that require a neutral wire. He mentioned this.
What was that wire stripping tool you used for the insulation on the white and black wires? Those were awesome.
I wondered why the green caps had holes in them 🤭
Nice....
I appreciate your strong physical connection before twisting on the wire nuts, looks like a best practice. I am currently troubleshooting a switch that turns on 2 lights, only the first light from the switch turns on. I have continuity from one fixture to the next. I only have voltage on the first fixture. All of the light fixtures have wire feeds with black twisted to white which is foreign to me. Perplexed.
Great video. Very thorough. All the detailed explanations are spot on.I like to also write the "light/fan" on the edge of the sheeting before putting it in the box so it's visible inside on entry. I don't do the sheeting sleeve as you have done. I liked the stripper with the sheeting cutter, but I'm not sure I want to get a stripper. It's such a hassle pinch tearing it with the linesmen.
at @1:30 you set up a receptacle box below. As you mentioned the power comes from down below (basement or first floor) and it meets that receptacle and you mentioned GFCI thereafter therefore I assumed that receptacle will be GFCI. Does any incoming connection need to meet a GFCI receptacle then distribute per code when working in wet areas?. I'm working on a setup similar to that and I need to run power from an outside receptacle that is not GCFI. I'd assume that the first connection in the bathroom needs to be GFCI. I'm not an electrician but I'm familiar with the theory of electricity and magnetism, digital systems, and ac/cd circuits, Ohms, Gauss etc.
Excellent video, subscribed.
Your description left me thinking about to many code sections and mentally kicking myself to remind me that each jurisdiction can select different rules, even throw the code book out.
So, I would encourage you to call in a local electrician. Not to do the work, but to "consult" for you on easy fixes and best practices. Remind them that all you need is the pathway to go so you can do it and give them a little cash for looking and recommending. Permits might be required, they may have fought your same problem before and can give you the playbook.
Also, I am not an inspector but find them very helpful and eager to have safe buildings. A call there might get you the rules before you do anything. Finding out your cable was the wrong type before you hang sheetrock might save you more than if the pros did it once.
Sir, which brand of wire stripper you are using, what ever we bought they are not pulling the wire sleeve.
Interesting how you wire up in America compared to here in Australia and the UK which are similar. We wire bathroom fans and heater lamps to the light circuit of 10 amps 240v. A dedicated lighting circuit is often used in larger builds to bathrooms only. I like the boxes even though we don't see boxes used at the stitch points over here in domestic builds.
In Europe many people use washing machines in their bathrooms (often illegally cause distance from bath/shower to electric appliances should be at least 2 foot, but people install them close to bath), so 10A circuit is very small and bathroom requires two circuits. In large European bathrooms some people organise saunas, which requires 3-phase electric power. In America quarter is powered with high voltage and each consumer has dedicated transformer, but in Europe districts have common transformer and such saunas in bathroom sometimes cause voltage drop, especially in historical districts.
I was looking for instant hot water heater until I was told 60Amp service is required for electric units or run gas
We passed on instant hot water maybe loop back system we had old house
Wow no boxes I would love to see that !!!!!!
There have been times when you’ve used a 14 gauge green insulated wire in creating the grounded connection from the device to the mechanical ground. Should a person always be using the 12 gauge green insulated wire with a 12 gauge 20 amp circuit?
Well explained it .I watched so many videos but this one was the perfect one . Thanks so much 🙏
Good video. Nice close up views of all work. What switch needs neutrals connected?
I agree with andy. Per haps you could save on a couple safe off nuts if you just cut a 12" com pigtail strip both ends and insert them in your com bundle. Then just roll them into the box and if there is a future need all they need do is cut the com loop in half and use as needed. But I am splitting hairs. Beautiful work as usual.
OOps Andy H... Sorry Andy
Love your content. Would like to see a video on how to install a surge protector on a 50 amp sub panel in a detached garage. Presently I have found no videos on RUclips. Thanks.
Yes a surge protector, I have blinking lights and on street with 10 homes with one feed from electrical grid line to one transformer feeds total street
I am think surgery protector might minimize the blink in lights
Hey Ben, Thanks for great video do you have the finished video after the rough in
What tool
did you use to cut the cable sheath? Thank you.
I have an outlet that’s reading open neutral. Pretty sure the double light switch that on the line is whats wired wrong that causing it. However I’m only my second week into an electrical helper. I can’t follow this but it has helped me
Your white/blue wire, (wire that has no current) is not properly connected. Either its loose or not properly connected to where its making contact with the connectors to the light switch or wall plug/outlet to where it completes the current.
Looks great. I would consider covering the wire with a piece of paper, to keep texture and paint off. I hate wires covered with paint and texture.
Hi BenI really enjoyed your Video learn slots.
Thanks
Bill
Ray, you can also cover with a baggie (Ziploc, etc) or plastic sheeting, like cut offs from masking the windows for painting. I agree with keeping the wiring clean with other trades following afterwards.🙂
Ben, excellent videos keep them coming thank for sharing your experience, fantastic 👍
Awesome thank you 2nd video of yours that I really needed to finish my basement!
Thank you so much for this video. I recently installed a bathroom fan and was able to wire it today after watching your video.
The neutral wires look into using wagos or the ideal push ins I grabbed a bag of the 4 port push ins those where a great time saver and using 2 of them was less space than a orange wirenut. I'm really starting to phase out wirenuts over the wagos and the ideal pushins especially for ground wires with multi feeds in a j-box where separating them for testing is so much easier
An hvac guy came and did some service on my unit I wired in with Wago's... first the apprentice said "what the hell is this?" Then the lead guy said something like "those are telephone connectors" Haha.
@@sparks6666 I cld see it. I just started using em so I w
Excellent clean work my friend!
Subscribed my friend very good the way you explain on how to do electric work
Excellent video Ben. I would just add a ladder diagram to get more information. Thanks
Great video bro,, and what if I want to run the heater as well? Can you do another video or ??
Subscribed 👍
Hi Ben! Is this fan with light included?
Excellent clear instructions! Subscribed.
Can you let me know what make/model number the automatic wire strippers are. I clicked the link and seems that the link is no longer active. Also - your favorite tools on amazon does not have it listed.
Do you still have room in the box for the switches?
I've watched a few of your videos that I've subscribed a long time ago.
My question is: I want to wire the light and the fan onto the same motion light circuit. (Both on and off same time.)Even though there separate units. (Light is over vanity and sink. Exhaust fan is a standalone item added completely as there was a window before with no fan) 20 amp circuit.
Not to make matters worse there was no GFCI before (older home) I installed that a while ago. But shouldn't they be on a different circuit so I'm not standing in the dark if the wife hair dryer trips it. ( I'm just curious about that) I don't have to change that if it involves a lot more work.
Add another switch for a new led water rated light for over the shower.
Upgraded to a 2 gang box total.
Connect the fan a light wires and pigtail to switch. I don't think that this an always desirable setup.
On your second question the answer is yes, but it had to be roughed in that way. Most likely an enormous job at this point, not worth it.
Thanks for explaining it in detail. Loved it man. Keep rocking 👍cheers
I have been watching all your videos and have learned a lot. Thank you!
What is your opinion on wago lever nuts versus traditional wire nuts?
exelent work very clean and professional
I had a question when placing the switches can you get away with placing 2 standard single pole light switches? or does it have to be a two 3 way switches?
Can you connect these in some way in the box to run the fan by itself at times and simultaneously with the shower light when it is on?
Your rough in videos teach well, but I wish you had videos that showed installation of the switches/outlets etc. What conductors attach to which screws may not be intuitive to the DIYer. Do you have follow up videos like that? If so, please let us know. You could refer to them when you end the rough in videos and get more views/likes/subscribers!! Thanks.
Fantastic video. Just what I was looking for with no b.s.
Great video! The only thing I would probably done different is use crimp copper sleeve (Buchanan) to hold the ground wires together and eliminate the “greenie” and I would leave the black wire power in wire a bit longer to cut the insulation twice, one loop for the first switch and the 4” down the wire to make a loop for the second switch thereby eliminating the another wire connector. Keep up the great work!!
Hey Ben, I have a question. In my apartments the connected the fan to run all the time! This are new apartments and I frankly don’t want to pay any extra to run them 24/7. Wha do you think they did to do this? And all the apartments are the same! I’m not an electrician! I can turn off the breaker of the bathrooms light and fans turn off. I turn them off during the day time when we leave. Just drives me crazy! I’m thinking of hiring an electrician to come and fix this! Thanks
Oh my son is the gamer! I’m Oscar.
Wiring in a standby generator would be a good vid....real good channel....
Check the videos. It’s in there already
That's great thank you.
The way ben explains it makes it easier to follow!!
@@rodgerhatfield3068 ok thanks!....would love to put a generator in that will run 100% everything for the house....I think preferably that runs off nat gas.....thanks again...
I wouldn’t change a damn thing. Beautiful
Here in Germany I switch the Light in the Bathroom, and the Fan turns on 30 sec later, when I turn off the Light the Fan turns off after 5 min.
Funny hazardous Wirenuts.
Ben; You do a very good job. Your explanations are clear and easy to understand. As an Electrical Instructor, the only thing I would say you are missing is Safety Glasses.
Excellent showing.
Great work and video my friend 👏
Very helpful video, thank you so much!
Excellent demonstration! Enjoy your videos. Have they made any cheap, throw away electrical box covers yet? I see so many boxes filled with drywall mud or spray texture.
Will you use 15 amp switches?
Good video, btw the code does state that the minimum free conductor length is 6" from the box
Sir, unchanged for the 2020 NEC section 300.14 in the last sentence talks about the opening of a outlet, junction or switch point is less than 8 inches in any dimension, each conductor shall be long enough to extend at least 3 inches outside the opening.
Was that the section you were talking about? I am studying for a test so if I got that wrong, if it must be 6 inches, please let me know the code section.
Excellent explanation Benji ... Good vid as usual ...
Subscribed only because we have the same automatic wire strippers😂. Great work!
i am a novice but you will put black wires on switch and wire nut neutrals together ???
Neutrals are NEVER broken. They must provide a direct path to the panel. Only the hot/black side gets the switch. Thus, they are all connected -- on the same circuit.
If you have two different circuits, they may share a neutral if both circuits disconnect at the same time with a switch clamp in the service panel.
What explanation step by step easy to understand, thank you very much for your time
I would have used Wago connectors instead of wire nuts. I love your wire organization.
good info, good delivery ! Thank you ~
Hi. I am doing wiring myself for my basement lights, switch and outlet, can i do it all with 14/2 wire or is it safer to go with 12/2, thanks
It depends. Are you sourcing your power from an existing circuit or are you adding a new circuit and breaker? If it an existing circuit and it's 20 amp, then you must use 12 gauge. If the circuit is 15 amp, then it's your choice. Keep in mind, continuing with 12 gauge in a 15 amp circuit that already has 14 gauge wire will not add safety. In both cases you need to consider the additional power draw. If it's a new circuit and the anticipated load on the entire circuit will be 12 amps maximum, 14 gauge and a 15 breaker would be ok. My recommendation in this case would be to use 12 gauge as greater safety margin. You can use a 15 or 20 amp breaker which ever is appropriate. Use a 15 amp "spec grade" duplex receptacle regardless of the breaker rating. A 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit is a code violation and a 20 amp duplex receptacle is completely unnecessary even if the circuit is 20 amps.
How do u test to determine the hot wire
6:00 if I’m not mistaken you could make your own greeny wire nut by just drilling a small hole in the top of a normal wire but if you need one in a pinch or don’t want a huge pack from a small job.
Depends or your nut. Some work some dont. Idk if code would allow though.
@@turboflush I don't see why code wouldn't allow it if the factory greeny does it like that, unless the greeny is banned. It would only be the wrong color but depending on the wire going to it any electrician should know what it is.
@@FishFind3000 You can't modify the way something is manufactured. An inspector could fail it. The NEC 2020 says: "110.3 (B) Installation and Use. Equipment that is listed, labeled, or both shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling."
Won't be the risk to modify the part.
@@illestofdemall13 true.. But the ground is usually at the back. They may not catch it.
Could you leave the 2 neutral pigtails for possible future use connected as a loop instead of cutting and wire nuts on the ends? Then you could just cut the loop to create the pigtails if you need them.
Yes
So glad to see your stripping your wires before putting them in the box. Also glad your using the old cover insulation to mark your wires. You are improving. I have one question. You leave 6 in of wire outside the box. Where does the code say that ? In my code book it says 6 in. of conductor total. I do enjoy your videos . With all the wire and wingnuts i don't know how you get the switches in. what is the depth of your boxes ?
I just prefer a bit more wire. At most it's only about 2 or 3 inches more wire per conductor. You are correct that 6 inches is the minimum. Maximum is 12 inches for the purpose of calculating box fill capacity. It comes down to preference to some level.
@@BenjaminSahlstromOk I see why you are doing this. I just find with some devices that take up more room it get harder to put them in with all that wire and connectors. I always leave a 6 to 8 in. loop before the box. That way if you do need more wire down the road you can always pull it in. Keep up the good work. I really like how you take pride in your work. Just showing you how some others do it also.
I personally agree with Ben on this one, and technically it’s 6 measured from box entry point..300.14, but if it is a box less than 8in in any dimension then it has to at least stick past the edge 3 inches....so for Ben’s box which is approx 2.5” deep 6 would be minimum. If he had a 4in deep box like a big Junction box he would have to have 7” minimum.
He did get those unsheathed cables into the box fairly easily. In my experience, an unsheathed cable always seems to snag on the integrated clamps of the box before I can pull in the required 1/4 inch of sheath. So I have always just unsheathed (very carefully!) the cable from within the box using a utility knife. I've done it enough times to have consistent results. Doesn't look as pretty as those square cuts of sheath with that stripper tool, though.
Im part of the 11.6% that did subscribe!
I have two wires in the ceiling of my bathroom going to my ceiling fan from a double switch and the other comes from the light fixture. The power starts at the switch and I need to know how to wire the new ceiling fan in as well as the light fixture12/3 to 12/3
You do not need AFCI protection for a bathroom that has a dedicated 20 amp circuit just for each bathroom, you can if you want, but you do not need a dual function breaker, just
gfi protection so the bath plug is gfi protected. I would just use a gfi receptical to meet code, instead of a gfi breaker, its about $30 cheaper. Some day afci may be required for the bathroom. Great channel, keep it up!
I think I heard that the most recent NEC calls for AFCI. It's important to remember though that NEC is optional and most states use NEC codes that are a decade or more older than the most up to date NEC iteration
Your information is good and useful
What kind of stripper you use to remove the yellow shielding? Pleas
Love that wire stripper.
Box looks a little crowded from my view maybe you should explain how you sized the box, you could get two regular switches in the box but getting a wifi enabled one or a GFI in there would be a stretch especially with #12. wire.
Is it Code to continue with 12/2 to all devices in a 20A circuit? Obviously, receptacle can have large and variable loads and it makes sense to wire them for the circuit's maximum current capability, but It seems a bit overkill to route 12g wire to fixtures like lights and fans. I believe my bathrooms use 20A GFI receptacle and a separate 15A Lighting /Fan circuit.
I'm not sure about code on this, but my rule is if it's on a 20 amp circuit, all wires should be 12 gauge. More likely to get inspector approval.
ALL cable on a circuit needs to be sized for the CB or larger cable/wire, Period! 20amp CB, ALL 12 awg. Any smaller cable/wire than max circuit amperage is against code and dangerous.