Can you think of any other mistakes made when installing these light switches? Hopefully this was helpful and maybe a good refresher. Please let me know! Thanks!
Those J bends hooks are a terrible way to connect a wire under a screw head. Instead you should make a Shepard's Hook with the extra up turned bend at the end of the hook. You then slip the hook over and under the screw head and then use your needle nose pliers to pinch the upturned end to make the hook loop very tight around the screw.
I am an 80 year old woman, and I just replaced two light switches, after folowing your excellent ande clear directions. The old ones had the wires just stuck in the back, but I stripped the wires, bent them as you showed, and used the two side screws. THANK YOU SO MUCH !
Good for you ! It’s never too late to learn a new skill. If you had to have hired an electrician to do the job it probably would’ve cost you $200 at least.
An excellent example of how you can be a successful RUclipsr without the need to be flashy, and annoying .. you are great at what you do. Keep it up. Straight to the point. I love it.
I am a single woman DYI-er. I absolutely fear doing electrical work myself, but felt like a switch is a good place to start. So far I like your delivery. You don't talk in a condecending way, but in an educational way. Exactly what I am looking for!
I’m an electrical engineer and electricity genuinely scares me too 😂 but it SHOULD scare you or you WILL end up getting hurt. Get a voltmeter/ohmmeter, learn how to use them, and always double check you’re not live before you touch anything. Happy fixing!
I'm a licensed electrician. The most important thing, is to make sure the power is off. Learn how to use a tester, the right way...basically every device needs a hot and a neutral, except a switch . There's alot of good information on you tube. But remember, if you're not comfortable, then hire a professional. It's not worth a fire,or injury
That was actually a good tutorial. I've been an electrician over 30 years. Most of the time these type of videos make me cringe, but you did a good job. One of the first things I learned about switches was not installing them upside down. If correct it will say"ON".. If upside down it says "NO".
Lol! As a non tradesman, this made me think of the 1st rule of plumbing, "water" runs downhill. This would have to be the second rule of electricians, though, because the first rule is always, "Make sure the power's off."
As a general rule the switch is a disconnect. So the hot wire goes on the top and the switch leg goes on the bottom it may seem trivial but trained electricians will do it this way or at least they should.
At 1:15 you point out that we need to wrap the wire around the screw clockwise, so that the wire is pulled under the screw rather than pushed out. Lol! This took me all the way back to 1962 when my physics school teacher showed us this! And I have followed this tip ever since. Rock on!
Very informative. I'm an electrical engineer that has been doing DIY house wiring for 40 years, but never professionally. But being an engineer doesn't automatically qualify you to do house wiring. You have to follow the code and best practices as well. The prior video on pre-twisting wire before applying wire nuts was something I'd not seen. I put them in the wire nut untwisted, assure I'm using the correct size wire nut for the volume of wire I'm connecting, tighten partially, check each wire for security, then perform the rest of the twist continuing to the insulated portion by cranking the wire nut with pliers. I think doing it the way the video recommends is easier and the quality of connection is verifiable. Also, I NEVER do the double decker connection on a screw terminal, but have repaired a number of them other clowns have done. In fact, I just repaired one yesterday in this older house I bought. They had actually used black lamp cord to make the jumpers and double decked that (egad)! Another cardinal sin is using the back stabbing to connect the jumper for to the next device in the box. The device then becomes part of the branch circuit and we don't want that. I've seen this type of connection fail over time, go intermittent and even arc as they corrode. I've seen certified master electricians do this since the push in terminals are "legal", in fact, a new build house I bought had some connections made that way. But using backstab is very fast and these guys are trying to make money ... I'm not since I'm working for myself. Once you get a flaky backstabbed connection that's part of (in series with) your branch circuit, you have no idea where it is. You have to take out every device in the branch circuit (usually one at a time) and wiggle it with the power on till you find the fault. Don't touch the black terminal and anything white or grounded simultaneously when you do this! Backstabbed connections? Not in my house! When jumpers are needed between switches or receptacles, I like to cut a jumper long enough to connect all of the devices that need it in a box, and in as many cases as possible, strip about 3/4" in the middle of the jumper and wrap the bared copper around the terminal. This makes a minimum resistance, durable, busbar-like connection that is even more reliable than a wire nut, can NEVER go intermittent, takes up less room in the box, and is easy and fast to implement. I've even done this in branch circuits between boxes by sequentially wiring them. I strip about 1' of the jacket off the Romex where needed, strip 3/4" of insulation off the individual black and white conductors in the middle of the 1' unjacketed length, bend over at the strip to form a bare copper loop, insert into the box, then wrap the stripped copper loops around the device connection screws. The ground wire of course gets bonded to each box (if metallic) without cutting the conductor, or for a non-metallic box it's connected to the device's ground terminal. Be sure to secure the jacketed Romex using the retaining system in your box ... don't clamp down on unjacketed wire! Speaking of jumpers, I do like back wiring ... not back stabbing, but true back wiring. CAUTION ... when back wiring, the length of the strip must be precise. I'm sort of comfortable using back wiring to connect a jumper wire for another device in the box, sort of a legal double decker, but still prefer the wrapped around the screw jumper made with wire stripped in the middle and bent into a loop. Then you are not relying on the device to make part of the branch circuit ... you are doing it with wire instead. Anyway, excellent videos. Keep up the good work.
I'm an electrician but it never hurts to watch these videos to make sure I'm still on point lol very good informative video for sure brotha pass the knowledge
Lots of good tips in your videos. I'm a DIYer, been wiring stuff for years, way before the internet came along. I learned most of this stuff the hard way by making these mistakes. It's a miracle that I didn't burn a house or two down. When I look at some of my attempts at wiring from 30 or 40 years ago it scares hell out of me. My advice to beginners is to buy a CURRENT copy of "Wiring Simplified", study and learn it until you know it by heart. When an updated copy comes out buy it. Someone's life may depend on it. Follow the code, it is not only for safety but it is a standard that the next sparky expects, a standardized procedure so there are no nasty surprises for the next guy.
Thank you!! I was changing out a switch and I noticed the previous switch didn't use J-hooks - instead using the commercial method of installing the wires under the plate. I really appreciate knowing this is a secure method - saves me stripping down the wires and bending them into hooks.
I appreciate Ms. Lori comment. Much like her this video is exactly what I needed as well. Im a DIYer and a woman but I enjoy fixing things around the house or my rentals. There’s nothing wrong with hiring a professional but it’s not always worth it. This video is informative and simple to understand. Thanks! 🙏 ❤
All excellent information. I recently had to replace all switches & outlets in our home as the contractor used the backstabbing method of wiring. 80% of all connections were failing. The structure of the outlet/switch became unstable, breaking the plastic causing arcing. I noticed the problem one quiet evening while walking past a switch that was on & making a snspping noise. Please pay attention to this. It can become very dangerous.
I am finally buying my first house at age 49. I've done remodel jobs for others quite a bit. These videos are great. I'm seeing some mistakes I've made in the past. (No dangerous ones) Your videos filled with "right" way really assures me that I won't make those mistakes again. Thank you so much for creating this content. It's funny how small little tricks can save so much time and frustration.
The last minute was the best. I had a problem with some cheap switches and wall plugs. Replaced them all with the commercial versions. Much easier then using the J hook and better than back stabbing. These are more expensive, but well worth it. I also purchased a screwdriver with the tip your showed, works great on all electrical screws
I found this video to be so much more helpful than any of the others on this same topic. Very informative! Every question I had was answered and I had tons. I'm trying to learn how to repair things myself, without a man's help. Thanks to this video I feel pretty confident that I can make this repair on my own. I will definitely be checking out your other videos.
Thank-you! I watched 5 videos and you were the only one that clearly explained that it doesn't matter which line (hot or neutral) goes to the upper or lower screw. You are also the only one that explained what the switch does, it interupts the current flow. Awesome!
Be careful, in some wiring configurations the white wire may not be a neutral. So it’s not always a good idea to blindly connect all the white wires together unless you know what’s going on with the circuitry! Thanks for posting!
You are absolutely right that electrically, it doesn't matter which terminals are line and load on a two-way (single throw). However, consistency is important, and I always follow the convention of using the bottom terminal for line. This is similar to how we tape the white wire on a backfed cable and use that for the supply. In my estimation, being consistent, even if it doesn't matter, goes a long way to eliminating guesswork and easing troubleshooting.
I'm just wondering why you wouldn't use the top as line, and bottom as load. That is how all disconnects are labeled and one of the first things you learn in Electrical 101
I find your comment interesting because as a retired electrician with close to forty years experience, I was taught the saying early in my apprenticeship hot to top and that is the industry standard at least in my area which is the west coast of the United States but it may not be the industry standard in your area I suppose.
Well i can say a few things about these. Yes most disconnects are line on top and meters as well but here in the south i have seen a lot of electricians do line on bottom. I have redone some 90+ year old houses that was very well done that also had line on bottom. Of course like my 90 year old great uncle who was a engineer for Honey Well told me it doesn’t really matter where it goes. But for some residential electricians they put the line on bottom as usually most pulls have the power come from a plug underneath. So at a glance you always know. Where the hot is.
I rely on these videos as guides for small diy projects. Most just tell you what to do, but they don't show what can go or be wrong. This video is really helpful. Thank you.
You put out very helpful videos for people that aren't 100% sure how to do the installs, thank you. I think one of the worst electrical mistakes being made is continuing to allow mobile home and modular home manufacturers to use those "self-contained" switches and outlets. I've had to replace way too many of those for people that live in those homes. Some not too long ago in a brand new doublewide. I don't know if you have any videos out there for those types or not. Thanks again for your great informative work.
Yes, this was very helpful. I just had an issue with my bathroom switches. I didn't know there was a difference between switches. I had what I thought was a shorting problem with my light switch. It turned out to be problem with how they added the pigtail for a second switch in the switch box. So, I went back and fixed the pigtail problem. Thanks
A tricky mistake is in assuming the existing stuff in the wall is normal/done correctly. Having someone experienced advise as you learn is invaluable. Miscolored wires, improper multiwire branch circuits, partial faults, are examples of things that could be lead to trouble without the right theory and experience background to recognize. A dangerous case I had was someone who fixed a tripping breaker by disconnecting the ground (EGC). It stopped the tripping, but what they didn't know is it was caused when someone crushed a hot in a clamp which made the box cases all live. I was looking at different circuit completely. This was in a bathroom next to a shower, and it's a miracle no one was hurt.
@@r_j_p_ 👍 Just like in programming (and software engineering in general) expect that the previous guy did something stupid, made some questionable decisions, or failed to document. Even if, and _especially if_, the previous guy was you.
@@jtsather4535 Yeah, I learned that one the semi-hard way (there was voltage, but not the full 110) many years ago. I turned off the breaker for the circuit where I was replacing an outlet... verified that the hot was deenergized using a non-contact tester, and went ahead and started wiring the outlet. As soon as I touched the "neutral" trying to make a j-hook... ZAP!!! What had happened was the this circuit's counterpart on the other phase was still on... and the two neutrals were had been tied together in one of the junction boxes rather than keeping them isolated until the panel. In addition, there were some poor connections along that path leading to there being significant residual potential between the neutral wire and ground (i.e., me). That one was fun to debug.... I disconnected the neutral-neutral connection and (part of) the other circuit stopped working because that was its only (decent) return path, at which point I had to work my way through a long daisy chain of outlets (including both indoor and outdoor ones on the same circuit 😡) correcting _many_ bad connections along the way until the whole thing had a decent return path. So like in the video, poor connections matter, even a little extra resistance can add up over an (absurdly long) daisy chain.
Helpful! I'm about to do a little rewiring. I've done it before, but as a DIYer who has years between doing this, I always want a refresher on what to do and not to do. I like you packed with info your video is, and no fluff!
Great video, my husband and I just installed a switch I wasn't aware of this.now I know I will go back and check our install to see if we did it correctly thanks for sharing. Very informative and detailed
Other problem with what you cover at 7:50, the "back stabbing method" is if you push the wires in from the back, yet leave the sidewire screws OUT, those screws are now HOT and sticking out the side of switch a substantial amount. This makes is much easier for them to accidentally come in contact with another wire or even touch another switch or outlet in the box. If you use this method, you still need to turn the screws all the way in even though they aren't actually retaining the wire.
I have seen that happen a lot. People will use the backstab and not tighten the screws. If you are installing that device into a metal box you are asking for problems leaving those screw loose. If you are installing quad outlets then those screw are extremely close to one another risking either a short or arching situation. Always tighten all the screws, even the unused screws on a receptacle.
@@nancykeslar7656 To play devils advocate, so don't shoot me. Backstabs when used properly should never fail. Problem is they are almost never used the right way. The failures happened then they get daisy chained. If they only get a dead end connection like from a pigtail it should never fail. Passing current through the backstabs is what causes them to fail.
Gold. Just gold, these videos. I'm learning so much, and doing basic wiring feels much more approachable than I thought it would be. I've already come across some of these no-nos in prior wiring at my house and it feels so good to know how to leave things better than I found them. I am so grateful to you for sharing this information!
After going through and updating the plugs and switches in a 40+ yr old house, I have seen almost all of these mistakes (and made a few myself before fixing them). Thanks so much for the wonderful video and taking the time to explain these.
I love how thoroughly you cover all of the issues. It's like you have asked those questions yourself and found out for us. Great attention to detail while showing what you are talking about.
FYI, I have been an electrician for over 24 years. I make many service calls for the stab in the back fails especially on outlets. Then especially in semi damp to damp locations like bathrooms where there is water vapor in the air where you can get corrosion. In my opinion, this should be outlawed in near ocean or other water bodies locations. Outlet and switch device connections get a lot of movement and cause the stab in the back or the wrong way wire wrap to move. Hence flickering or failure. In a worst case scenario you get overheat and wires and insulation melt and fire is possible. Almost every older track home I have worked on has stab in the back because it is fast to do. Keep it up guys, job security for me. Thanks for the video, people need to know this even if they don't work on electrical. I will refer my customers to watch this to understand what I am doing during repairs.
I’ve been watching your channel for a few months now. I’m getting ready to buy a fixer-upper home and now I feel much more comfortable and confident with rewiring a box if I need to I love your channel. Thank you so much for doing this.
Ty, I'm changing all the switches and receptacles in an old mobile home, and its been crazy. The wiring in this thing is chaos, so my mind has been all over the place. This video helped me focus. Again, Thank you.
This is one of the most helpful videos I’ve found so far on light switches. Thanks for covering a broad range of mistakes people make and providing context on the wires.
Excellent presentation!! Please continue to provide your experience to people like me that try to do this type of work to save some money. Again keep up the good work. God bless!
I just learned how to change out outlets this week (son taught me). I got ready to change my garbage disposal switch & and it's a bit different! So far, you cleared up my confusion on why I had no copper ground. Hopefully, before it's over, I'll find out why I have 3 black wires & no white.
Never comment, but this was so helpful, clear, and to the point that I have to comment on this one. Really helpful. Thank you. I'm to the point that I don't do any electrical projects without looking for and watching your "mistakes" video.
Great video. My 2 cents on backstabbing: Last week the outlet behind my refrigerator was throwing sparks and beginning to catch fire. Thankfully, I was home at the time and cut the power and put out the fire. When removing the outlet, I discovered it was wired with backstabbing, and the wire just fell out of the bottom holes (where the fire started) when I pulled the outlet away from the box. Clearly there was arcing inside the outlet due to the connection failure. Backstabbing should not be allowed in code, and should be banned. I've since found that the previous owner, who remodelled the kitchen had backstabbed all the outlets. All have been replaced.
Glad your house is safe I've been waiting to here stories of back stabbing failures and as I assumed it would be on a heavy amp load circuit such as ac,fridge,freezer.
@@derekdavies7374 Thanks, I was very fortunate. Unfortunately, though, I have no idea what other electrical work the former owner did, so now I have to go over everything in my house. Ugh.
I don’t understand why the US code hasn’t required that the ground wire be insulated 😮. In a switch box you have hot wires on open terminals and double that when a switch is on, then bare copper ground wires floating around in that same box.
Backstabbing an LED ceiling light?....yea, I'm OK with that...I may have even done that. But.... Backstabbing for heavier/heavy loads (AC, Fridge, pool pump, dryer)....why take a chance? just wrap the wire on the screw as shown in the video. Also, I pretty much always wrap the switch longitudinally with electrical tape to cover the screw terminals.
@@davidrosa3856how much are you shaking your box to make wires dance? I mean are you hosting clogging parties on floor boxes? Running paint mixers on top of floor boxes? Or do you just not take the half second to sort your wires before you put the outlet in? Cuz wires in a box don't move much and any contact trip breaker immediately. If it's hot to ground it's a hard trip. If your that worried put in an arc fault
What a great video. When my new fairly expensive house was built years ago the electrical contractor used cheap 79 cent switches with stab wiring or ganged multiple wires onto the screw connection. 9 of the light switches failures in first 2 years, replaced all with commercial grade back wired clamp switches and no problems since 2010.
People need to be careful when buying the ECX or combo bits. There are two sizes #1 and #2 (KLEIN uses C1 and C2). #1 (C1) is smaller and used more for residential work and #2 (C2) is larger and used more for commercial work on items like EMT connectors and boxes. So, watch out for which one you are trying to buy. For switches and outlets, you need #1 (C1)
It was really uncertain to me what to use, wrapping hooks or pushing wire under pressure plates. Now I know it's called backwiring and it's legit and recommended. Thanks a lot!
I have learned this when I was a child. Seems like common sense. Understanding current flow / conductivity is pretty important for anyone doing electrical work.
Current flow,ac or dc. Conductivity,divide the wattage by the applicable voltage to get the amperage. Chose a wire size that carries the current without overheating.
Interesting, I just bought my first house and replaced a few switches with smart switches and the original switches were all using that back stab connection you suggested to avoid. We've noticed a number of lights that flicker on occasion. Not sure if that's the cause but I may change those out as well. Great info!
I discovered your page roughly a week ago upon trying to understand how to do basic household electrical work. I want to say I’ve truly learned something from every single video I’ve watched of yours so far. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I love that you provide the what, how, and why behind every lesson. Very helpful in helping me successfully and safely tackle household projects.
I'm digging these - thanks. I should've watched before I swapped out half the lights in my house, and now I'm doing my smart switches. This also helps me troubleshoot some stuff from before I moved in.
My brother who is a retired electrician who worked for a large college, always told me to wrap the screws with electrical tape. Lowers risk of contact an helps keep wiring secure.
You shouldn't wrap screws unless absolutely necessary, ie.: handybox, multi-ganged box or small ci. metal cut-in box. It will turn into a sticky mess for the next electrician that has to work in that box.
Late to this video but I just ordered that Milwaukee 13 in 1 ECX Screwdriver. Seeing that ECX bit in action sold me. Now I'll take apart all the outlets in my house just so I can use this to tighten the connections! Yes... I need help. Just ask my wife.
I have wired alot of switches and I always have to think about where the neutral goes, I then realize it bypasses the switch. Your explanation finally made sense thank you
@So Isaidtogod sometimes it helps to encourage someone who is a good teacher. I try to always be positive and let someone know when they are doing a good job. I appreciate your blunt honesty, but my comments were to encourage and also to let those watching the instructional Video with less experience, know even simple tasks can be difficult if not used every day
As an electrician I've replaced numerous failed switches and receptacles which were installed with the wires being "back stabbed". The internal surface contact on a back stabbed switch/receptacle is minimal compared to using a side wired application.
You did a really good job using the job specific jargon in a clear way that made it easy to understand from context, which is rare for some of these type of videos.
Thanks for the video especially the upgraded switch. Electric repairs scare me since I feel like a mistake could cause a fire, so unless it’s an even swap out, I don’t attempt it. Even when I do attempt it, I’m so overly cautious that I turn off practically every circuit breaker in the house, triple check with a meter, take pictures with my phone to make sure I’m hooking things back up properly and then feeling like fool when it takes 30 seconds to swap a switch out (including putting the plate back on with the screws perfectly aligned) 😂
As a rule of thumb when I did commercial work, we made the top of the switch line side, and the bottom of the switch the load side. This helped us when we were trouble shooting.
Isn't that because in residential the lines usually come up from the floor so line side is from the bottom? In commercial it is usually from the ceiling so line side is up?
I love your content! Your explanations, and camerawork are so, so good. Thank you for providing such an informative and well made RUclips channel! I will be recommending you to anyone looking for a reliable, informative, and well produced channel.
I am glad to hear you found that helpful. That is a fantastic idea Richard. I have added it to the list of videos to film. Thanks a lot for that. That is something I did not even think about and is an important topic that I if we are all being honest, most of us probably would admit we have damaged the wires from time to time removing the insulation. Thank you again!
@@HowToHomeDIY I'd like to see some on how to strip the jacket back on Romex :) I see these guys like Dustin from Electrician U just rip it out, but I always end up having to slit and then use nippers to cut inside the box. I've use electrician's scissors, but those are too small for my hand.
I’m not a professional and you didn’t ask me…. But I just want to say - that as a person who doesn’t do this every day- simple - not fancy tools …. Are much better! I prefer Klein products…. And mine is affordable…. Cuts the gauges that I would ever need it to cut …. Has the stripping capacity for those gauges…. Has holes for helping to properly bend the wires and has a safety lock. Got mine on line for around $30 I think and used it to replace several outlets in my house and very happy with it. Just my 411.
@@JCWren Try to have some spare cable in the wall (called a service loop) When preparing the cable you can pull some of that to the front of the box so you don't need to reach in to the back. When you are ready to fit the switch or socket just push that spare back in to the wall.
People may not like back-stabbies, but as you said, they are legal. Making a proper J-hook is a skill and, like any skill, it takes some practice and a DIYer can get rusty between projects. I will submit that a proper back-stab is safer than any improper J-hook. (I side-step the problem and only use commercial grade outlets and switches.)
All the brands of spec/commercial grade switches and receptacles I have used still have to have the ground J hooked-although without the insulation it’s a much easier task and only one necessary vs a minimum of 3 usually.
The last part was good information for me. I replaced all the switches in my house with Eaton Commercial Grade switches. All but the first two I installed were using the clamps. Watching this video reminded me to change the first two switches I did to use the clamps.
I have replaced a couple of backstab connections made by our builder's electrician that had failed over time. One of them almost caught fire from arcing. It smoked and melted half the switch. As a rule i do not use them at all, and would advise everyone not to use them either. Don't care if it is approved by code or not. In my experience it has proved to be outright dangerous.
OMG, the builders electricians for mass-built new subdivisions! So much laziness and silly mistakes. You would think the electricians on those projects would be more careful than the other tradesmen, even when the pressure is on, but I guess not...
I've seen too many backstabbed devices fail, and the first time I encountered them I knew it was a fire waiting to happen, even before I saw any failures, and refuse to connect that way. I can't for the life of me understand why the Code would approve of these, unless a brown envelope changed lands and a boatload of hookers was involved.
Those back stab connections where introduced to deal with aluminium wires. Those wires are softer, easier to flatten and expand more when heated than copper. As the contact is made using spring, the aluminium wire expanding and contracting when the temperature change don't cause the wire to flatten and degrade the connection.
@@graemebr Aluminium wires are NO LONGER legal in Canada. They where, and there are still a LOT of houses with aluminium wiring. The owners of houses with existing aluminium wiring are not required to replace those as long as all connection are adequate.
Your videos are excellent. they are explained completely with understanding of how to for the DIY"ER. I come to your videos before looking elsewhere for complete DIY.
On the commercial grade switch, it’s still best to make a j hook when using solid wire. The hold down plates are actually to accommodate stranded wire which is commonly used in commercial buildings.
Actually, the mfg says the wire under the plate or back wiring (NOT back stab) is for solid and stranded wire. So therefore, both are code approved. However, the under the screw or J-hook can only be used for solid and not stranded. Another advantage of the under the plate/back wiring is that it is easy to add a additional wires without having to make a pigtail.
Have been using solid #14, 12, & 10 guage copper solid wires on devices that have the plate for over 50 years and never had trouble. NEC states that you must use a torque driver or torque wrench to properly tightened all electrical screws & bolts.
Came here just for this. I'm not an electrician but I've always back wiring/under the plate. It seems to me not bending wire and not having to think about the direction of the hook saved time and possible mistakes
@greense65 two wires under a screw is bad. The back wiring either so pressure plate u d usually approved for two wires. Many electricians still prefer pigtails, unless the box is very crowded.
I have always placed the feed wire at the bottom. It helps when having to remove/replace & locate where to start if power isn't 'currently' (pun) on. If you need to trace out the load, follow the top. If having to trace the direction of the feed (hot), merely start at the bottom (floor). Of course, you will have to verify your work before the power is on again. Hopefully you will know the answer as you trace it out.
It would not be uncommon to find a white wire connected to the switch and going to the light or whatever is being switched. In this case the white wire is not a neutral wire, but it's being used as a hot wire (switch leg) in a case where /2 wire cables are used instead of/3, and the power comes into the switched device first, aka a switch loop. The white wire should be marked on both ends with black electrical tape or hs tubing to indicate hot, but it's not always done. This is not allowed anymore in most cases, since a neutral wire must reside in the switch box. A 14/3 or 12/3 between the switch and the light or whatever would be used in a switch loop scenario.
But yet that same trick with using a 14/2 is still done between a switched outlet and its switch, I can't see how that's still allowed, but maybe it's leftover from older installations. Sure the outlet has a neutral but does the switch box? That depends on what else is in the box... Often there's neutral in there, but not usable by that particular the switch because it's from the wrong circuit. I mean seriously, how hard would it have been to pull 14/3 instead of 14/2?
I've never stumbled onto the horrible case with two wires around one screw, however I've seen several installations like this where the backstab is used for the second wire. I guess this is not against code, but I sure do prefer using a pigtail. Never use the back stab :) Oh, and the ultimate horror: A receptacle where all 4 screws and all 4 backstabs were used - 8 wires plus ground connected to one lone duplex receptacle. Is this even within code?!?
One thing you could have added. If you ever remove a back stab, NEVER use that switch back stab again. Removing wire damages the internal device that holds wire in.
Really informative and well explained. Thank you. You put it all in very simple and understandable terms without making us feel stupid in the process.....
One little thing....there most definitely are times when you connect the neutral line to a switch. Obviously, I am referring to those times when the power source is coming into the fixture and not into the switch. You may have skipped that to avoid confusion.
I could be wrong but I believe that in that instance the white wire is not a neutral. I belive what should happen is at the light fixture the black line wire should hook to the black going to the switch and the white wire of the Romex to the switch would get hooked to the other terminal of the switch but it should be marked by being colored with a black permanent marker or wrapped in black electrical for as much you can reach in the switch box. The white from the switch to the light fixture box should be marked the same as in the switch box. The white of the line Romex at the light fixture gets connected to the neutral of the light socket. I belive whenever possible you should never break your neutral.
Im a professional handyman and I came to this video looking to brush up my electrical knowledge. This is exactly the kind of info I needed to boost my skills for my clients. Subbed!
If we are all being honest, I think we all have made a few of them at some point or another early on. But we learn from them and always look to improve! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I think if most were being honest just about everyone has made some of these mistakes at some point. But what is important is learning about and from them and making ourselves better! Thanks a lot for the honest feedback Ron!
Great info and I love how detailed you get when explaining things. I was messing around as a DIY until i got hit and forced me to learn more about electricity.
Glad I found this. Commercial roofer by trade, so I've got enough common sense to know when something isn't right, and when I opened up my 4-gang light switch panel and immediately noticed a double wire on every single one I knew I needed to look this up. Very glad I found this for education, cause I actually got replacement rockers with a third post for piggybacking if needed. Maybe it's worked til now with no issues, but I'm an ABSOLUTE zero chances kind of person with the things I use in my home that have potential to cause fires, etc. For anyone without experience in the trades, using the double wire per post thing for a perfect example, if you see something related to building that doesn't look like it was made to do EXACTLY what it's doing, i.e. two wires on one post when it's clear there should only be one, SOMETHING IS PROBABLY WRONG. Did it last a while without causing a problem? Maybe so, but that doesn't mean there's zero percent chance of something going wrong. If it helps, say this to yourself and see how it makes your feel: "If it's not done right but it's not a 100% chance it will fail and cause an accident, that means there isn't a 0% it could burn your house down with you and your family inside. Are you willing to settle for ANYTHING more than a 0% chance of your family dying?” Maybe it's a little extra work, time, or money, but remember: that extra work, time, or money are small prices to pay for you and your family's safety and lives. Be safe out there friends.
Really appreciate all of the input! I also was a Commercial Roofer. Did it from when I was a kid and then 15 years as an adult. My Dad got me into it as it was his company. Left it about 2 years ago. Y'all doing any foam and coatings systems or mostly mod bit, TPO, etc?
Just something I learned in the Air Force as a electrical power production specialist and on the *prime beef team was to the wrap electrical tape around the switch or outlet body so it covers the connection screws to ensure that you dont short two the device against another device or in older building to the metal mounting boxes that were common back in the day. Since in older construction you never know if they labeled the breakers correctly or have the switches and outlets wired correctly.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. I've done some low voltage home electronics projects and want to change a light switch to a dimmer in a room. This will help me not to make some mistakes,
I’ve been replacing switches all in my house because the person that wired everything used the back stabbing and not the screws. I’ve had 4 of these with broken wires from the back. After watching this video I’m going to start going thru my whole house and replacing all of the switches. Great video.
My mother broke her basement stairs light switch by hitting it with a basket full of clothes. I saw your tutorial, bought the switch you recommended and followed your directions but the light didn't turn on. But I looked up at the light and I said to myself " I'll change the bulb and see if that helps." It did,and now my mother can use the steps safely. Thanks.
Can you think of any other mistakes made when installing these light switches? Hopefully this was helpful and maybe a good refresher. Please let me know! Thanks!
This was very helpful thank you so much!
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you found it helpful. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Those J bends hooks are a terrible way to connect a wire under a screw head. Instead you should make a Shepard's Hook with the extra up turned bend at the end of the hook. You then slip the hook over and under the screw head and then use your needle nose pliers to pinch the upturned end to make the hook loop very tight around the screw.
Lmao!!!!
B
😮😮m😮m no mommy be Iiiio😅😅 😅k@@deshawnmoon35 look
I am an 80 year old woman, and I just replaced two light switches, after folowing your excellent ande clear directions. The old ones had the wires just stuck in the back, but I stripped the wires, bent them as you showed, and used the two side screws. THANK YOU SO MUCH !
Good for you ! It’s never too late to learn a new skill. If you had to have hired an electrician to do the job it probably would’ve cost you $200 at least.
Nice! Yeah, back-stabbing is bad practice. You’re better off now than you originally were. 😊
My hat is off to you.
Good on ya, ma’am. There’s no stopping a lady that gets the job done on her own.
I think it's awesome you chose to learn how to do it yourself. Good job.
I think the thing I love most about ur vids is that u start your vids w no BS intros. You just get straight to the point. Love it!
An excellent example of how you can be a successful RUclipsr without the need to be flashy, and annoying .. you are great at what you do. Keep it up. Straight to the point. I love it.
I am a single woman DYI-er. I absolutely fear doing electrical work myself, but felt like a switch is a good place to start. So far I like your delivery. You don't talk in a condecending way, but in an educational way. Exactly what I am looking for!
Guys, girls, we all need to learn somewhere.
Everyone starts from scratch.
I’m an electrical engineer and electricity genuinely scares me too 😂 but it SHOULD scare you or you WILL end up getting hurt. Get a voltmeter/ohmmeter, learn how to use them, and always double check you’re not live before you touch anything. Happy fixing!
I'm a licensed electrician. The most important thing, is to make sure the power is off. Learn how to use a tester, the right way...basically every device needs a hot and a neutral, except a switch . There's alot of good information on you tube. But remember, if you're not comfortable, then hire a professional. It's not worth a fire,or injury
Electric is simple. Watch videos
Find a Man to help you or hire an Electrician.
That was actually a good tutorial. I've been an electrician over 30 years. Most of the time these type of videos make me cringe, but you did a good job. One of the first things I learned about switches was not installing them upside down. If correct it will say"ON".. If upside down it says "NO".
Great added point. Never thought of it that way with it saying no. Thanks for the feedback!
Since there is an up orientation, incoming hot goes on top. This makes switching the toggle up match with a lit room.
Lol! As a non tradesman, this made me think of the 1st rule of plumbing, "water" runs downhill.
This would have to be the second rule of electricians, though, because the first rule is always, "Make sure the power's off."
As a general rule the switch is a disconnect. So the hot wire goes on the top and the switch leg goes on the bottom it may seem trivial but trained electricians will do it this way or at least they should.
@@save_from_commentsonly in the USA. On in other countries is in the opposite position.
At 1:15 you point out that we need to wrap the wire around the screw clockwise, so that the wire is pulled under the screw rather than pushed out. Lol! This took me all the way back to 1962 when my physics school teacher showed us this! And I have followed this tip ever since. Rock on!
Very informative. I'm an electrical engineer that has been doing DIY house wiring for 40 years, but never professionally. But being an engineer doesn't automatically qualify you to do house wiring. You have to follow the code and best practices as well. The prior video on pre-twisting wire before applying wire nuts was something I'd not seen. I put them in the wire nut untwisted, assure I'm using the correct size wire nut for the volume of wire I'm connecting, tighten partially, check each wire for security, then perform the rest of the twist continuing to the insulated portion by cranking the wire nut with pliers. I think doing it the way the video recommends is easier and the quality of connection is verifiable. Also, I NEVER do the double decker connection on a screw terminal, but have repaired a number of them other clowns have done. In fact, I just repaired one yesterday in this older house I bought. They had actually used black lamp cord to make the jumpers and double decked that (egad)!
Another cardinal sin is using the back stabbing to connect the jumper for to the next device in the box. The device then becomes part of the branch circuit and we don't want that. I've seen this type of connection fail over time, go intermittent and even arc as they corrode. I've seen certified master electricians do this since the push in terminals are "legal", in fact, a new build house I bought had some connections made that way. But using backstab is very fast and these guys are trying to make money ... I'm not since I'm working for myself. Once you get a flaky backstabbed connection that's part of (in series with) your branch circuit, you have no idea where it is. You have to take out every device in the branch circuit (usually one at a time) and wiggle it with the power on till you find the fault. Don't touch the black terminal and anything white or grounded simultaneously when you do this! Backstabbed connections? Not in my house!
When jumpers are needed between switches or receptacles, I like to cut a jumper long enough to connect all of the devices that need it in a box, and in as many cases as possible, strip about 3/4" in the middle of the jumper and wrap the bared copper around the terminal. This makes a minimum resistance, durable, busbar-like connection that is even more reliable than a wire nut, can NEVER go intermittent, takes up less room in the box, and is easy and fast to implement. I've even done this in branch circuits between boxes by sequentially wiring them. I strip about 1' of the jacket off the Romex where needed, strip 3/4" of insulation off the individual black and white conductors in the middle of the 1' unjacketed length, bend over at the strip to form a bare copper loop, insert into the box, then wrap the stripped copper loops around the device connection screws. The ground wire of course gets bonded to each box (if metallic) without cutting the conductor, or for a non-metallic box it's connected to the device's ground terminal. Be sure to secure the jacketed Romex using the retaining system in your box ... don't clamp down on unjacketed wire!
Speaking of jumpers, I do like back wiring ... not back stabbing, but true back wiring. CAUTION ... when back wiring, the length of the strip must be precise. I'm sort of comfortable using back wiring to connect a jumper wire for another device in the box, sort of a legal double decker, but still prefer the wrapped around the screw jumper made with wire stripped in the middle and bent into a loop. Then you are not relying on the device to make part of the branch circuit ... you are doing it with wire instead.
Anyway, excellent videos. Keep up the good work.
Definitely worth the time for anyone that has ever even thought about wiring to watch. Will be using this as a training video for my coworkers.
I'm an electrician but it never hurts to watch these videos to make sure I'm still on point lol very good informative video for sure brotha pass the knowledge
You are a smart and impeccable man!!
Lots of good tips in your videos. I'm a DIYer, been wiring stuff for years, way before the internet came along. I learned most of this stuff the hard way by making these mistakes. It's a miracle that I didn't burn a house or two down. When I look at some of my attempts at wiring from 30 or 40 years ago it scares hell out of me. My advice to beginners is to buy a CURRENT copy of "Wiring Simplified", study and learn it until you know it by heart. When an updated copy comes out buy it. Someone's life may depend on it. Follow the code, it is not only for safety but it is a standard that the next sparky expects, a standardized procedure so there are no nasty surprises for the next guy.
Thank you!! I was changing out a switch and I noticed the previous switch didn't use J-hooks - instead using the commercial method of installing the wires under the plate. I really appreciate knowing this is a secure method - saves me stripping down the wires and bending them into hooks.
I appreciate Ms. Lori comment. Much like her this video is exactly what I needed as well. Im a DIYer and a woman but I enjoy fixing things around the house or my rentals. There’s nothing wrong with hiring a professional but it’s not always worth it. This video is informative and simple to understand. Thanks! 🙏 ❤
All excellent information. I recently had to replace all switches & outlets in our home as the contractor used the backstabbing method of wiring. 80% of all connections were failing. The structure of the outlet/switch became unstable, breaking the plastic causing arcing. I noticed the problem one quiet evening while walking past a switch that was on & making a snspping noise. Please pay attention to this. It can become very dangerous.
I am finally buying my first house at age 49. I've done remodel jobs for others quite a bit. These videos are great. I'm seeing some mistakes I've made in the past. (No dangerous ones) Your videos filled with "right" way really assures me that I won't make those mistakes again. Thank you so much for creating this content. It's funny how small little tricks can save so much time and frustration.
Congrats on the house 👏
The last minute was the best. I had a problem with some cheap switches and wall plugs. Replaced them all with the commercial versions. Much easier then using the J hook and better than back stabbing. These are more expensive, but well worth it. I also purchased a screwdriver with the tip your showed, works great on all electrical screws
I found this video to be so much more helpful than any of the others on this same topic. Very informative! Every question I had was answered and I had tons. I'm trying to learn how to repair things myself, without a man's help. Thanks to this video I feel pretty confident that I can make this repair on my own. I will definitely be checking out your other videos.
Thank-you! I watched 5 videos and you were the only one that clearly explained that it doesn't matter which line (hot or neutral) goes to the upper or lower screw. You are also the only one that explained what the switch does, it interupts the current flow. Awesome!
Be careful, in some wiring configurations the white wire may not be a neutral. So it’s not always a good idea to blindly connect all the white wires together unless you know what’s going on with the circuitry! Thanks for posting!
Hands down, this is the BEST light switch wiring tutorial I've seen!!!
You are absolutely right that electrically, it doesn't matter which terminals are line and load on a two-way (single throw). However, consistency is important, and I always follow the convention of using the bottom terminal for line. This is similar to how we tape the white wire on a backfed cable and use that for the supply. In my estimation, being consistent, even if it doesn't matter, goes a long way to eliminating guesswork and easing troubleshooting.
I'm just wondering why you wouldn't use the top as line, and bottom as load. That is how all disconnects are labeled and one of the first things you learn in Electrical 101
Hi Casey, I too use consistency but I put the line on top, so I wonder where did you find the convention of putting line on bottom? Thank you
I find your comment interesting because as a retired electrician with close to forty years experience, I was taught the saying early in my apprenticeship hot to top and that is the industry standard at least in my area which is the west coast of the United States but it may not be the industry standard in your area I suppose.
Well i can say a few things about these. Yes most disconnects are line on top and meters as well but here in the south i have seen a lot of electricians do line on bottom. I have redone some 90+ year old houses that was very well done that also had line on bottom. Of course like my 90 year old great uncle who was a engineer for Honey Well told me it doesn’t really matter where it goes. But for some residential electricians they put the line on bottom as usually most pulls have the power come from a plug underneath. So at a glance you always know. Where the hot is.
so true
straight to the point without delusions of grandeur announced in the intro. Thank you sir!
Clear and concise explanation in all you vids, including this one. You're a wealth of info brother. Thank you.
You are very welcome. Really glad to hear you are finding value in the channel. Thanks a lot for leaving feedback! See ya in the next video!
I rely on these videos as guides for small diy projects. Most just tell you what to do, but they don't show what can go or be wrong. This video is really helpful. Thank you.
You put out very helpful videos for people that aren't 100% sure how to do the installs, thank you. I think one of the worst electrical mistakes being made is continuing to allow mobile home and modular home manufacturers to use those "self-contained" switches and outlets. I've had to replace way too many of those for people that live in those homes. Some not too long ago in a brand new doublewide. I don't know if you have any videos out there for those types or not. Thanks again for your great informative work.
Yes, this was very helpful. I just had an issue with my bathroom switches. I didn't know there was a difference between switches. I had what I thought was a shorting problem with my light switch. It turned out to be problem with how they added the pigtail for a second switch in the switch box. So, I went back and fixed the pigtail problem. Thanks
You are very welcome! Glad you were able to figure it out and get it working properly again. Thanks for the feedback Steve!
A tricky mistake is in assuming the existing stuff in the wall is normal/done correctly. Having someone experienced advise as you learn is invaluable. Miscolored wires, improper multiwire branch circuits, partial faults, are examples of things that could be lead to trouble without the right theory and experience background to recognize. A dangerous case I had was someone who fixed a tripping breaker by disconnecting the ground (EGC). It stopped the tripping, but what they didn't know is it was caused when someone crushed a hot in a clamp which made the box cases all live. I was looking at different circuit completely. This was in a bathroom next to a shower, and it's a miracle no one was hurt.
Never assume the guy begore you knew what he was doing. I learned that one 30 years ago the hard way.
AMEN Brother! Don't even trust yourself. Test and check, retest, recheck assumptions.
@@r_j_p_ 👍 Just like in programming (and software engineering in general) expect that the previous guy did something stupid, made some questionable decisions, or failed to document. Even if, and _especially if_, the previous guy was you.
@@jtsather4535 Yeah, I learned that one the semi-hard way (there was voltage, but not the full 110) many years ago. I turned off the breaker for the circuit where I was replacing an outlet... verified that the hot was deenergized using a non-contact tester, and went ahead and started wiring the outlet. As soon as I touched the "neutral" trying to make a j-hook... ZAP!!!
What had happened was the this circuit's counterpart on the other phase was still on... and the two neutrals were had been tied together in one of the junction boxes rather than keeping them isolated until the panel. In addition, there were some poor connections along that path leading to there being significant residual potential between the neutral wire and ground (i.e., me).
That one was fun to debug.... I disconnected the neutral-neutral connection and (part of) the other circuit stopped working because that was its only (decent) return path, at which point I had to work my way through a long daisy chain of outlets (including both indoor and outdoor ones on the same circuit 😡) correcting _many_ bad connections along the way until the whole thing had a decent return path. So like in the video, poor connections matter, even a little extra resistance can add up over an (absurdly long) daisy chain.
Helpful! I'm about to do a little rewiring. I've done it before, but as a DIYer who has years between doing this, I always want a refresher on what to do and not to do. I like you packed with info your video is, and no fluff!
Great video, my husband and I just installed a switch I wasn't aware of this.now I know I will go back and check our install to see if we did it correctly thanks for sharing. Very informative and detailed
Other problem with what you cover at 7:50, the "back stabbing method" is if you push the wires in from the back, yet leave the sidewire screws OUT, those screws are now HOT and sticking out the side of switch a substantial amount. This makes is much easier for them to accidentally come in contact with another wire or even touch another switch or outlet in the box. If you use this method, you still need to turn the screws all the way in even though they aren't actually retaining the wire.
Really great point! I'm surprised he didn't cover that in the video.
I have seen that happen a lot. People will use the backstab and not tighten the screws. If you are installing that device into a metal box you are asking for problems leaving those screw loose. If you are installing quad outlets then those screw are extremely close to one another risking either a short or arching situation. Always tighten all the screws, even the unused screws on a receptacle.
Best thing to do is never ever use the back stab method. I’ve replaced tons of outlets & switches all because the connections failed. -gary-
@@nancykeslar7656 To play devils advocate, so don't shoot me. Backstabs when used properly should never fail. Problem is they are almost never used the right way. The failures happened then they get daisy chained. If they only get a dead end connection like from a pigtail it should never fail. Passing current through the backstabs is what causes them to fail.
Interesting
Ty
Gold. Just gold, these videos. I'm learning so much, and doing basic wiring feels much more approachable than I thought it would be. I've already come across some of these no-nos in prior wiring at my house and it feels so good to know how to leave things better than I found them. I am so grateful to you for sharing this information!
After going through and updating the plugs and switches in a 40+ yr old house, I have seen almost all of these mistakes (and made a few myself before fixing them).
Thanks so much for the wonderful video and taking the time to explain these.
You are very welcome. I bet you saw quite a bit updating all of that. Thanks a lot for the feedback David!
I love how thoroughly you cover all of the issues. It's like you have asked those questions yourself and found out for us. Great attention to detail while showing what you are talking about.
FYI, I have been an electrician for over 24 years. I make many service calls for the stab in the back fails especially on outlets. Then especially in semi damp to damp locations like bathrooms where there is water vapor in the air where you can get corrosion. In my opinion, this should be outlawed in near ocean or other water bodies locations. Outlet and switch device connections get a lot of movement and cause the stab in the back or the wrong way wire wrap to move. Hence flickering or failure. In a worst case scenario you get overheat and wires and insulation melt and fire is possible. Almost every older track home I have worked on has stab in the back because it is fast to do.
Keep it up guys, job security for me. Thanks for the video, people need to know this even if they don't work on electrical. I will refer my customers to watch this to understand what I am doing during repairs.
A great refresher video for us DIYers. Thanks for the tutorial.
I appreciate the helpful tips. I am a DIYer and basic and advanced electrical knowledge to keep things safe is always a great idea
Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I’ve been watching your channel for a few months now. I’m getting ready to buy a fixer-upper home and now I feel much more comfortable and confident with rewiring a box if I need to I love your channel. Thank you so much for doing this.
Delivery of info is very good - better than many University profs I have witnessed.
Great explanations on proper wiring techniques!
Well done!
Ty, I'm changing all the switches and receptacles in an old mobile home, and its been crazy. The wiring in this thing is chaos, so my mind has been all over the place. This video helped me focus. Again, Thank you.
You always do an excellent job explaining things-much appreciated!!😁👍
This is one of the most helpful videos I’ve found so far on light switches. Thanks for covering a broad range of mistakes people make and providing context on the wires.
Great job! Thank you for doing this in such step by step process.
Excellent presentation!! Please continue to provide your experience to people like me that try to do this type of work to save some money. Again keep up the good work. God bless!
Thanks for helping me not burn my house down.
I just learned how to change out outlets this week (son taught me). I got ready to change my garbage disposal switch & and it's a bit different! So far, you cleared up my confusion on why I had no copper ground. Hopefully, before it's over, I'll find out why I have 3 black wires & no white.
Thank you so much for the break down on installing and light switch.
You are very welcome. I am really glad to hear that you liked it. Thank you very much for the feedback Leroy! Take care!
THANKS! you gave me the answer i was looking for in the first 60 seconds and ... IT WORKED PERFECT!
Thanks for the screwdriver information. Thumbs up 👍
You are very welcome. Thanks a lot for the feedback Clarence. Take care!
Never comment, but this was so helpful, clear, and to the point that I have to comment on this one. Really helpful. Thank you. I'm to the point that I don't do any electrical projects without looking for and watching your "mistakes" video.
Great video. My 2 cents on backstabbing: Last week the outlet behind my refrigerator was throwing sparks and beginning to catch fire. Thankfully, I was home at the time and cut the power and put out the fire. When removing the outlet, I discovered it was wired with backstabbing, and the wire just fell out of the bottom holes (where the fire started) when I pulled the outlet away from the box. Clearly there was arcing inside the outlet due to the connection failure. Backstabbing should not be allowed in code, and should be banned. I've since found that the previous owner, who remodelled the kitchen had backstabbed all the outlets. All have been replaced.
Glad your house is safe I've been waiting to here stories of back stabbing failures and as I assumed it would be on a heavy amp load circuit such as ac,fridge,freezer.
@@derekdavies7374 Thanks, I was very fortunate. Unfortunately, though, I have no idea what other electrical work the former owner did, so now I have to go over everything in my house. Ugh.
I don’t understand why the US code hasn’t required that the ground wire be insulated 😮. In a switch box you have hot wires on open terminals and double that when a switch is on, then bare copper ground wires floating around in that same box.
Backstabbing an LED ceiling light?....yea, I'm OK with that...I may have even done that.
But....
Backstabbing for heavier/heavy loads (AC, Fridge, pool pump, dryer)....why take a chance?
just wrap the wire on the screw as shown in the video. Also, I pretty much always wrap the switch longitudinally with electrical tape to cover the screw terminals.
@@davidrosa3856how much are you shaking your box to make wires dance?
I mean are you hosting clogging parties on floor boxes? Running paint mixers on top of floor boxes?
Or do you just not take the half second to sort your wires before you put the outlet in?
Cuz wires in a box don't move much and any contact trip breaker immediately. If it's hot to ground it's a hard trip. If your that worried put in an arc fault
What a great video. When my new fairly expensive house was built years ago the electrical contractor used cheap 79 cent switches with stab wiring or ganged multiple wires onto the screw connection. 9 of the light switches failures in first 2 years, replaced all with commercial grade back wired clamp switches and no problems since 2010.
People need to be careful when buying the ECX or combo bits. There are two sizes #1 and #2 (KLEIN uses C1 and C2). #1 (C1) is smaller and used more for residential work and #2 (C2) is larger and used more for commercial work on items like EMT connectors and boxes. So, watch out for which one you are trying to buy. For switches and outlets, you need #1 (C1)
It was really uncertain to me what to use, wrapping hooks or pushing wire under pressure plates. Now I know it's called backwiring and it's legit and recommended. Thanks a lot!
I have learned this when I was a child. Seems like common sense. Understanding current flow / conductivity is pretty important for anyone doing electrical work.
Indeed. Appreciate the feedback.
Current flow,ac or dc. Conductivity,divide the wattage by the applicable voltage to get the amperage. Chose a wire size that carries the current without overheating.
@@georgerow5025 ss
Common sense isn't so common you'd be surprised
You're lucky - some of us were told to "go play outside-" and never gained that particular "common sense"
Interesting, I just bought my first house and replaced a few switches with smart switches and the original switches were all using that back stab connection you suggested to avoid. We've noticed a number of lights that flicker on occasion. Not sure if that's the cause but I may change those out as well.
Great info!
I discovered your page roughly a week ago upon trying to understand how to do basic household electrical work.
I want to say I’ve truly learned something from every single video I’ve watched of yours so far. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I love that you provide the what, how, and why behind every lesson. Very helpful in helping me successfully and safely tackle household projects.
You are welcome! Glad you liked it! Thank you so much for the feedback Zachary!
I'm digging these - thanks. I should've watched before I swapped out half the lights in my house, and now I'm doing my smart switches. This also helps me troubleshoot some stuff from before I moved in.
My brother who is a retired electrician who worked for a large college, always told me to wrap the screws with electrical tape. Lowers risk of contact an helps keep wiring secure.
You shouldn't wrap screws unless absolutely necessary, ie.: handybox, multi-ganged box or small ci. metal cut-in box. It will turn into a sticky mess for the next electrician that has to work in that box.
Late to this video but I just ordered that Milwaukee 13 in 1 ECX Screwdriver. Seeing that ECX bit in action sold me. Now I'll take apart all the outlets in my house just so I can use this to tighten the connections!
Yes... I need help. Just ask my wife.
I have wired alot of switches and I always have to think about where the neutral goes, I then realize it bypasses the switch. Your explanation finally made sense thank you
You are welcome. Thanks a lot for the feedback John!
LOL, if that has you wondering stop doing electrical work.
@So Isaidtogod sometimes it helps to encourage someone who is a good teacher. I try to always be positive and let someone know when they are doing a good job. I appreciate your blunt honesty, but my comments were to encourage and also to let those watching the instructional
Video with less experience, know even simple tasks can be difficult if not used every day
Thank you for the DIY mistakes. It explains all of the various construction of switches. And your explanation of neutral wire connection was great!
As an electrician I've replaced numerous failed switches and receptacles which were installed with the wires being "back stabbed". The internal surface contact on a back stabbed switch/receptacle is minimal compared to using a side wired application.
Twist your wires together with pliars before installing wire nut
Duh Are you safe in all respects?
Yep common sense..tks
You did a really good job using the job specific jargon in a clear way that made it easy to understand from context, which is rare for some of these type of videos.
Thanks for the video especially the upgraded switch.
Electric repairs scare me since I feel like a mistake could cause a fire, so unless it’s an even swap out, I don’t attempt it. Even when I do attempt it, I’m so overly cautious that I turn off practically every circuit breaker in the house, triple check with a meter, take pictures with my phone to make sure I’m hooking things back up properly and then feeling like fool when it takes 30 seconds to swap a switch out (including putting the plate back on with the screws perfectly aligned) 😂
Nothing wrong with hiring stuff out that you aren't comfortable doing or don't enjoy.
There is no such thing as too much caution.
@@kw6713a have a little bit of a sense of humor 🙄
@@dr.stacey7283 make better jokes
@@kw6713a it wasn’t a joke it was just something with a little humor; which apparently you have no concept of.
As a rule of thumb when I did commercial work, we made the top of the switch line side, and the bottom of the switch the load side. This helped us when we were trouble shooting.
Isn't that because in residential the lines usually come up from the floor so line side is from the bottom? In commercial it is usually from the ceiling so line side is up?
Really appreciate the way you share info! Thanks man!
It is my pleasure! I am really glad that you are finding value in it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Scott!
I love your content! Your explanations, and camerawork are so, so good. Thank you for providing such an informative and well made RUclips channel! I will be recommending you to anyone looking for a reliable, informative, and well produced channel.
Nice ! Really like the commercial grade and tool suggestions. I might suggest you talk about tools for stripping wire without damaging the conductor?
I am glad to hear you found that helpful. That is a fantastic idea Richard. I have added it to the list of videos to film. Thanks a lot for that. That is something I did not even think about and is an important topic that I if we are all being honest, most of us probably would admit we have damaged the wires from time to time removing the insulation. Thank you again!
@@HowToHomeDIY I'd like to see some on how to strip the jacket back on Romex :) I see these guys like Dustin from Electrician U just rip it out, but I always end up having to slit and then use nippers to cut inside the box. I've use electrician's scissors, but those are too small for my hand.
I also wonder when making j hooks, are needle nose pliers with grooves in them damaging the wire, or do ghe little nicks matter ?
I’m not a professional and you didn’t ask me…. But I just want to say - that as a person who doesn’t do this every day- simple - not fancy tools …. Are much better!
I prefer Klein products…. And mine is affordable…. Cuts the gauges that I would ever need it to cut …. Has the stripping capacity for those gauges…. Has holes for helping to properly bend the wires and has a safety lock.
Got mine on line for around $30 I think and used it to replace several outlets in my house and very happy with it.
Just my 411.
@@JCWren Try to have some spare cable in the wall (called a service loop)
When preparing the cable you can pull some of that to the front of the box so you don't need to reach in to the back.
When you are ready to fit the switch or socket just push that spare back in to the wall.
I have changed most of the switches and outlets with your help, thanks a lots. God bless.
People may not like back-stabbies, but as you said, they are legal. Making a proper J-hook is a skill and, like any skill, it takes some practice and a DIYer can get rusty between projects. I will submit that a proper back-stab is safer than any improper J-hook. (I side-step the problem and only use commercial grade outlets and switches.)
All the brands of spec/commercial grade switches and receptacles I have used still have to have the ground J hooked-although without the insulation it’s a much easier task and only one necessary vs a minimum of 3 usually.
The last part was good information for me. I replaced all the switches in my house with Eaton Commercial Grade switches. All but the first two I installed were using the clamps. Watching this video reminded me to change the first two switches I did to use the clamps.
I can't figure out how YT creators always post exactly what I need to see on any given day. Doing a light switch tomorrow.
That is in the next video. How RUclipsrs read their audiences minds 😂. Glad it was good timing for you. Thanks for the feedback!
Google knows what you had for breakfast.....
Very helpful and presented in a simple way way that almost anyone can understand! Thank you.
I have replaced a couple of backstab connections made by our builder's electrician that had failed over time. One of them almost caught fire from arcing. It smoked and melted half the switch.
As a rule i do not use them at all, and would advise everyone not to use them either. Don't care if it is approved by code or not. In my experience it has proved to be outright dangerous.
OMG, the builders electricians for mass-built new subdivisions! So much laziness and silly mistakes. You would think the electricians on those projects would be more careful than the other tradesmen, even when the pressure is on, but I guess not...
I've seen too many backstabbed devices fail, and the first time I encountered them I knew it was a fire waiting to happen, even before I saw any failures, and refuse to connect that way. I can't for the life of me understand why the Code would approve of these, unless a brown envelope changed lands and a boatload of hookers was involved.
The problem is with "Listed Devices", not with the Code. The listing agencies messed up big time.
@@joelee2371
great video. I use a small square drive bit for electrical fasteners it works fine and I agree back stabbing connection do fail sometimes
Those back stab connections where introduced to deal with aluminium wires. Those wires are softer, easier to flatten and expand more when heated than copper. As the contact is made using spring, the aluminium wire expanding and contracting when the temperature change don't cause the wire to flatten and degrade the connection.
I'd never heard that. I think the aluminum is not legal here in Canada.
Thanks.
@@graemebr Aluminium wires are NO LONGER legal in Canada. They where, and there are still a LOT of houses with aluminium wiring. The owners of houses with existing aluminium wiring are not required to replace those as long as all connection are adequate.
. @Kualinar OK. But I would never use aluminum. Thanks for the new info
Your videos are excellent. they are explained completely with understanding of how to for the DIY"ER. I come to your videos before looking elsewhere for complete DIY.
On the commercial grade switch, it’s still best to make a j hook when using solid wire. The hold down plates are actually to accommodate stranded wire which is commonly used in commercial buildings.
Actually, the mfg says the wire under the plate or back wiring (NOT back stab) is for solid and stranded wire. So therefore, both are code approved. However, the under the screw or J-hook can only be used for solid and not stranded. Another advantage of the under the plate/back wiring is that it is easy to add a additional wires without having to make a pigtail.
@@kentuckyken6479 Isn't adding additional wires, instead of making a pigtail, one of the things the video says not to do?
Have been using solid #14, 12, & 10 guage copper solid wires on devices that have the plate for over 50 years and never had trouble. NEC states that you must use a torque driver or torque wrench to properly tightened all electrical screws & bolts.
Came here just for this. I'm not an electrician but I've always back wiring/under the plate. It seems to me not bending wire and not having to think about the direction of the hook saved time and possible mistakes
@greense65 two wires under a screw is bad. The back wiring either so pressure plate u d usually approved for two wires. Many electricians still prefer pigtails, unless the box is very crowded.
I have always placed the feed wire at the bottom. It helps when having to remove/replace & locate where to start if power isn't 'currently' (pun) on. If you need to trace out the load, follow the top. If having to trace the direction of the feed (hot), merely start at the bottom (floor). Of course, you will have to verify your work before the power is on again. Hopefully you will know the answer as you trace it out.
It would not be uncommon to find a white wire connected to the switch and going to the light or whatever is being switched. In this case the white wire is not a neutral wire, but it's being used as a hot wire (switch leg) in a case where /2 wire cables are used instead of/3, and the power comes into the switched device first, aka a switch loop. The white wire should be marked on both ends with black electrical tape or hs tubing to indicate hot, but it's not always done. This is not allowed anymore in most cases, since a neutral wire must reside in the switch box. A 14/3 or 12/3 between the switch and the light or whatever would be used in a switch loop scenario.
But yet that same trick with using a 14/2 is still done between a switched outlet and its switch, I can't see how that's still allowed, but maybe it's leftover from older installations. Sure the outlet has a neutral but does the switch box? That depends on what else is in the box... Often there's neutral in there, but not usable by that particular the switch because it's from the wrong circuit.
I mean seriously, how hard would it have been to pull 14/3 instead of 14/2?
The video helps me understanding about where the 'white' wires on the light switch should be connecting to.
I've never stumbled onto the horrible case with two wires around one screw, however I've seen several installations like this where the backstab is used for the second wire. I guess this is not against code, but I sure do prefer using a pigtail. Never use the back stab :) Oh, and the ultimate horror: A receptacle where all 4 screws and all 4 backstabs were used - 8 wires plus ground connected to one lone duplex receptacle. Is this even within code?!?
My exact problem at 3:07. Can't believe they did that. lots of arching suddenly one day. Thanks for this!
One thing you could have added. If you ever remove a back stab, NEVER use that switch back stab again. Removing wire damages the internal device that holds wire in.
Golden rule is to just never use them. Haha
Even just pulling hard on the wires can damage the connectors.
Really informative and well explained. Thank you. You put it all in very simple and understandable terms without making us feel stupid in the process.....
One little thing....there most definitely are times when you connect the neutral line to a switch. Obviously, I am referring to those times when the power source is coming into the fixture and not into the switch. You may have skipped that to avoid confusion.
Question I had. I opened up a single light switch and the hot and neutral were connected to switch. Is that correct?
I could be wrong but I believe that in that instance the white wire is not a neutral. I belive what should happen is at the light fixture the black line wire should hook to the black going to the switch and the white wire of the Romex to the switch would get hooked to the other terminal of the switch but it should be marked by being colored with a black permanent marker or wrapped in black electrical for as much you can reach in the switch box. The white from the switch to the light fixture box should be marked the same as in the switch box. The white of the line Romex at the light fixture gets connected to the neutral of the light socket. I belive whenever possible you should never break your neutral.
Just because the wire has white insulation doesn't -prove- mean it is neutral. In fact those should be wrapped in black tape or heat shrink.
Im a professional handyman and I came to this video looking to brush up my electrical knowledge. This is exactly the kind of info I needed to boost my skills for my clients.
Subbed!
Pretty sure I made all these mistakes at one point
If we are all being honest, I think we all have made a few of them at some point or another early on. But we learn from them and always look to improve! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Me too. Been there done that. But have gone back to make the correction right. Stay safe and God bless.
I knew about most of the tips on here but it’s nice to get a refresh. Very professional and informative video. Thank you
Common mistakes I've made.
I think if most were being honest just about everyone has made some of these mistakes at some point. But what is important is learning about and from them and making ourselves better! Thanks a lot for the honest feedback Ron!
Great info and I love how detailed you get when explaining things. I was messing around as a DIY until i got hit and forced me to learn more about electricity.
Glad I found this. Commercial roofer by trade, so I've got enough common sense to know when something isn't right, and when I opened up my 4-gang light switch panel and immediately noticed a double wire on every single one I knew I needed to look this up. Very glad I found this for education, cause I actually got replacement rockers with a third post for piggybacking if needed. Maybe it's worked til now with no issues, but I'm an ABSOLUTE zero chances kind of person with the things I use in my home that have potential to cause fires, etc. For anyone without experience in the trades, using the double wire per post thing for a perfect example, if you see something related to building that doesn't look like it was made to do EXACTLY what it's doing, i.e. two wires on one post when it's clear there should only be one, SOMETHING IS PROBABLY WRONG. Did it last a while without causing a problem? Maybe so, but that doesn't mean there's zero percent chance of something going wrong. If it helps, say this to yourself and see how it makes your feel: "If it's not done right but it's not a 100% chance it will fail and cause an accident, that means there isn't a 0% it could burn your house down with you and your family inside. Are you willing to settle for ANYTHING more than a 0% chance of your family dying?” Maybe it's a little extra work, time, or money, but remember: that extra work, time, or money are small prices to pay for you and your family's safety and lives. Be safe out there friends.
Really appreciate all of the input! I also was a Commercial Roofer. Did it from when I was a kid and then 15 years as an adult. My Dad got me into it as it was his company. Left it about 2 years ago. Y'all doing any foam and coatings systems or mostly mod bit, TPO, etc?
Great Video, I learned a lot. I was on planning on inspecting all my switches since I bought a house that is over 30 years old.
Just something I learned in the Air Force as a electrical power production specialist and on the *prime beef team was to the wrap electrical tape around the switch or outlet body so it covers the connection screws to ensure that you dont short two the device against another device or in older building to the metal mounting boxes that were common back in the day. Since in older construction you never know if they labeled the breakers correctly or have the switches and outlets wired correctly.
I've seen all of the issues you have all the issues you have pointed out, thanks for making this video.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. I've done some low voltage home electronics projects and want to change a light switch to a dimmer in a room. This will help me not to make some mistakes,
I’ve been replacing switches all in my house because the person that wired everything used the back stabbing and not the screws. I’ve had 4 of these with broken wires from the back. After watching this video I’m going to start going thru my whole house and replacing all of the switches. Great video.
I’ve seen all of these mistakes on a job I’m currently correcting! Unbelievable how complacent some can be when wiring!
My mother broke her basement stairs light switch by hitting it with a basket full of clothes. I saw your tutorial, bought the switch you recommended and followed your directions but the light didn't turn on. But I looked up at the light and I said to myself " I'll change the bulb and see if that helps." It did,and now my mother can use the steps safely. Thanks.