I was 100% sure that I had nothing to learn about a pair of strippers. BUT, I didn't know how the bolt cutters work. I knew they were for cutting those "bolts," but I would never have used them because I figured they would destroy the threads. I never noticed they were actually threaded. I haven't cut many of those screws, but when I have I have gone through the trouble of dragging out the dremel and putting a cutting blade on it and all that. Just pulled my old trusty well-worn Klein Tools stripper out and tried it and it's actually really good. Thanks for teaching an old man something new about a tool I've used for probably thousands of hours.
You've used them for thousands of hours, and in all that time you never thought that they were included on that tool for a reason other than destroying the threads? 'Cause that’s a good business decision for a tool company, and customers would love to have that feature. FFS
@@curt2742 no joke. Along with.......dragging out the Dremel and putting on a cutting wheel and then of course finding the wrench in the same case as the cutting wheel to tighten it all down..... But that's exactly why you buy a Dremel, for small intricate tasks like this.
I've been doing my own wiring (including hot panel (YIKES) change outs) and home re-wires for decades and am embarrassed to admit that I had no idea that the strippers could be used to make hooks for switches and outlets AND "bolt" cutting and shearing! Oh how much time and more importantly frustration, that would have saved me over the years! Great video!!!
I've always used that oval tip on the Klein as a wire connection crimper. It wouldn't work well for that on smaller wire, but for the heavier stuff it's fine. Also, I have one of those cheap, stamped steel and plastic auto strippers like the orange and blue one in the background. I think I paid $10 for mine 20 years ago at a state fair and it served me well during my time working in telecomm. Works just like the Knipex you featured.
You beat me to it. Yes, they are both coarse thread machine screws, having a thread pitch of 32 threads per inch, versus the fine pitch versions at 40 threads per inch. 🙂
To be super theoretical, in a sense 8-32 is actually a finer thread than 6-32. To maintain the same number of threads at a larger diameter, their angle is slightly increased. Like the other comment mentioned, at this size, 32 is coarse and 40 is fine, but at 1/4" 20 is coarse and 28 is fine. 32 would be extra fine.
I’ve been using kline wire cutters forever. Thanks for posting. This video is great for my wife and daughter. I’m try to teach my wife to do maintenance around the house because I won’t be around much longer ( maybe 2-3 months) and this is something she can reference if she needs to.
A couple of points you missed on features of wire strippers: The needle nose teeth are meant to grab insulated wire ends (ring terminals, quick disconnects, ferrules and such) without damaging the insulation. This feature is great when you need to install these wire ends in a tight space. The next part down is a pseudo crimper for crimping these ends on, but it sucks and I hate using them for that job.
Agreed. Don't use the strippers as a crimp tool...not reliable crimp. Also, use your lineman's to take off the 'Ears' of the device. They will do it faster and cleaner!
Oh, it SHOULD BE, huh? What if you don't use this particular tool? Why can't the owner of the tool learn about his tools? And just who is it that's supposed to be doing all this? Isn't this why manuals and instructions and even videos exist. The world doesn't need hand holders. It needs responsible people
@@risaoramPeople who use tools should be responsible enough to learn what they're for. BTW, female technicians tend to do this for themselves. It's the males I come across that tend to need babysitters and hand holders and on site mamma's
I have had those knipex wire strippers for awhile now and use them daily. They are by far the best I’ve used and have not stopped working like all my other versions of universal wire strippers.
Interesting. I would never had thought the little hole was used to put a loop on the end of the wire. I normally just use the tips on mine since they are about the right width to create a perfect loop for most terminal screws on outlets and switches. Well thought out and presented information...probably very helpful for folks who have not done a lot of wiring.
i'm using these tools regularly and like many others only understood the basic stripper and cutter functionalities. The pliers, bolt cutter, and hook maker features are new to me.
No, number 2 is an extremely poor excuse for a crimper. Anybody that as ever used a ratchet crimper will agree. They are cheap enough that you can do the job and connection cleanly these days. Any tradesman that comes to me house or business and used that for crimping will get my eyebrows raised.
@@gottliebdee263 Very true. And what's more than that(*) there isn't actually such a thing as a generic "crimper". Each type of terminal and connector requires a different crimping die to properly crimp and not using the correct one will oftentimes leave you with a weak connection or an otherwise insufficient one, often leading to pull-out, pinched cables, damaged insulation or conductors, arcing, intermittent contact or other shenanigans. I recently bought a proper set which contains a ratcheting crimping tool with interchangeable dies, which covers most of the common types of terminals and connectors. It was quite pricey and contains twelve different sets of dies for fourteen different types of crimp terminals and connectors, each with a significantly different shape. You can tell just by looking at the shapes that they are absolutely not interchangeable, while the crimp terminals themselves oftentimes do look quite similar in shape, especially the part where the crimp is applied (*)You obviously already know this
@@gottliebdee263 So, actually "yeah, but i dont like it" is what you say. Its not great for sure, but if its one of these or some random pliers, or even the good old mangling side cutters, the "cirimper" crimper is brilliant.
@@BinaryBlueBull Ah, yes. I'd actually forgotten that point. That said, to get a set that does the red, yellow and blue (ring, but and blade crimps), is well with investing in. They are reasonably universal. Once you get to 10mm2 cable it's a different game
Besides the Milwaukee guy using the wrong way(timestamp:-11:15) to do a proper crimp on the crimp connectors this video was well put together. The pin side of the crimper goes on the flat side of the crimp connector while the wire side of a crimp connector goes on the Crimpers cup side to get a solid crimp on the wire. Otherwise you will get a loose crimp connection and wire can loosen and slip out of the connector overtime especially in any kind of place were there is constant vibration for the connector to deal with. The good thing if you did the crimping the wrong way and find the crimp connection of the connector loose to the wire, then you can always flip the loose crimped wire in the crimper and re-crimp your connector to the wire right way and have a solid well crimped wire altogether for use.
Try crimping some wire connectors onto wires in person for yourself and then say that you haven't done/seen any crimping in-person so you don't have any idea of bad and good crimping for yourself.
@@chettiarsirusraj9501 Good point. My first crimps were not the best but with practice they're much better now. As for crimping though, I prefer to use a crimping tool over the strippers. The strippers are great for this in case you don't have the tool handy but I find they're not always the best.
Criticism is always easy. It generally says more about the one doing the criticizing. Especially if they have a need to be watching something instructional. Also, it's a great way to cause people around you not to want to be around you. When will it be their turn to be criticized? There are always polite and proper ways to note an error. Unless of course, you get off on trying to show up others. But that ain't you, right?
@@nothankyou5524 Correcting bad information on RUclips is always a good thing to do. There is a lot of it. The demonstration of the crimp function is completely wrong. Not only is the pin on the wrong side, but he is using the non-ins part of the tool for an insulated connector. If only people who actually knew what they weer talking about made videos RUclips would be much more helpful to DIYers. @Chet is actually doing the community a service here.
Here in the UK nearly 50 years ago I bought a tool similar to the Knipex stripper made by Plasplug. Although I don't do much wiring nowadays, when I need to these strippers are still up to the challenge. Nothing fancy just does the job it was designed for which probably explains how it's survived for so long.
Awesome tutorial! That bolt cutter feature is something I could have used recently as I encountered the exact use case you described: replacing a ceiling light with one that needed shorter screws.
Those tabs on the switches and plugs in this video make good #6 washers on the fly for non-critical applications or stacking on mounting screws when the box is set a little too deep and a good, flush switch or receptacle plate installation is required. I've also used the jaws of that yellow handle stripper as a reamer for 1/2 " EMT or PVC.
Cool video on this type of tool. I knew several of the features already but I wasn't sure what the holes were for that you used to bend loops in the wire. So I am still learning. Unfortunately they make many different types of these type tools and some have even more features and at that point I think it comes down to personal preference. I think I might pick up a new set to keep in my little toolbox in the house.
4:45 - Using the (uninsulated) ground conductor to determine gauge of the insulated conductors. Be aware that on older "Romex" (NM cable) the ground conductor may be a size smaller than the current carrying conductors. IIRC, the NEC started requiring a full sized ground in the early 70's
Which is stupid as anything. If you need the ground wire because of a short, you don't want the ground wire to fuse. It should be larger than the others.
I always wrap a few turns of black tape on the handle along with red/white/green and wire number strips just because it always seems like I’m on a 12’ ladder and I need an inch of electrical tape and it’s sitting on the floor or something. Depending on what kinda work you’re doing. It always comes in handy especially if you got yourself into a tight spot.
VERY good video and excellent information that I didn’t know (as a mechanic) but I have to do electrical work at times. Thank you for putting out one of the most quality RUclips videos out there!!! You do have my respect)
Great video. Others have commented about 8/32 and 6/32 have the same number of threads per inch and thus the same coarseness. I will point out something else also. When demonstrating the crimper on the Klein stripper, you are crimping an insulated connector in the non-insulated position, the correct position to crimp the insulated connector is the one closer to the hinge point and is shaped much like the 'wire grabber' (#2 in your video) near the tip of the pliers. Some suggest you can use the 'wire grabber' to crimp, but that point is so far from the hinge point that unless you have extraordinary hand strength you will be unable to achieve an adequate crimp. While I have used such pliers, and other cheap crimping tools with good success, a dedicated crimping tool which uses compound lever action to achieve greater pressure, and a ratcheting mechanism to keep the pliers from releasing before a full crimp is achieved, will yield far superior results. These type of pliers usually have dies which crimp the connector at 2 points simultaneously and are specific to the size of the connector being used. I bought several different pairs to compare different brands, I returned all but the Klein pliers. The Klein pliers were at least twice the price, but the dies they had were far superior and achieved the best crimp by far. The best crimps are achieved in a single crimping action, crimping a connector more than once generally causes the the first crimp to loosen.
Don't twist , it scores a line in the wire. You don't try to cut all the way through the insulation , you just cut the outer sheath and tear the rest of the way. The "wire cutter" blade is a strip gauge , the straight blade is the standard length you strip off the wire, if you need a longer amount stripped you use the holes to consistently get the same length.
@@queueeeee9000 the length of the blade is the same as the distance you normally strip the wire. If you want to go a longer , and keep it consistent you use the holes as a measurement
I HATE stripping wires with this type of stripper, but this was really helpful! Hopefully I'll remember some of these when I need them. 😂 I'm still using my automatic strippers 99% of the time though!
I use a scrap piece of wire bent in a U to go through the hook holes and keep the strippers closed when not in use. Protects the sharp tool edge, and fingers (for strippers without a close latch)
To avoid the focus issue youre having try to set the camera to a larger F-stop (aperture). This is the focal length of the lens and determines how deep the focus gets. Basically, the Portrait feature on phones use smaller F-stops in order to keep the focus on a narrow depth of field, ie the person, while redusing focus on the background. For your case, you need a larger F-stop which would give more focus leeway and allow you to move your tools up and down without affecting the video.
Love this video! I learned what I never knew! Even took out my pair of cheap Harbor Freight strippers to examine and try all those features! Thank you so much!!
Excellent video! One thing you should have said something about regarding stripping solid wire that applies to stranded also. Nicking the wire causes damage that if the wire is bent, such as pushing it back into a box, the wire could partially or fully break. Even a minor break can cause enough damage that should the wire be fully loaded or repeatedly overloaded, this damage will reduce the wire current carrying capacity and cause local overheating. Bad enough of a nick and it could cause an electrical fire or melt the wire. Replaced many electrical devices that showed signs of overheating, insulation damage or burned wires requiring cutting back the wires. I've seen this done by electricians too! Most common simple mistake!
When using the Bolt Shears, make sure to thread in from the threaded side. If you thread it in from the other side & cut, you will have difficulty getting the threaded shaft out.
As an electrician I’ve learned it’s easier to, while gripping the strippers down onto the wire, hold the wire in your opposite hand, and with your thumb push against the head of the strippers, so you don’t struggle to do everything with your hand/arm that’s holding the strippers. Possibly wacking someone in the face if they stood next to you
Very nice video. Really helpful. Knipex are on the expensive side of things but they are reliable and you can change it's blades when they become dull.
@@eraldylli the Knipex 13718 are very similar minus the crimping feature, but they cut bolts really great too. Highly recommended if in search in the European market.
Find you a metric pair for the bolt shears... They work great with brass screws. Brass rews are good for 3D prints, you can use them to quickly heat set holes
Handyman here. I use both the Milwaukee 7-in-1 and the Klein auto wire stripper, though I cut off the depth stop on the Kleins because it kept loosening. I hear the Irwin auto-strippers are better. I use a Knipex off-set mini bolt cutters as my diagonal pliers. Helps with my elbow, which is prone to inflammation. They've fit in every situation I've needed them to.
I have the Klein Tools 11063W automatic strippers. They are like the Knipex shown in the video, but with the form of the Klein he showed. They have individual blade sections for each wire gauge, like the standard wire strippers. So, they are a bit more manual than the completely automatic strippers, but I feel they give the cleanest result for the effort. I use them a lot when doing automotive wiring and they are my go to over an automatic set similar to the ones he showed or over a standard manual stripper.
Thank you, this is a useful video. However, at 11:13 the crimper should go the other way around, with the pin on the flat side of the terminal. The open barrel junction of the terminal needs to be closed by the round side of the crimper rather than opened up by the crimper pin.
I always liked my older Cornwell LS series wire strippers. Cutter is on the same portion of the strippers which are below the pivot. The older versions, the non insulated crimper was rounded enough you could use it on insulated terminals as well for an even better crimp without tearing through.
The Knipex strippers don't remove the cut insulator on purpose. You can leave the cut insulator over the stranded wires until you are ready to use the wires. The plastic insulator keeps the wire strands from separating and spreading out, leaving them much easier to deal with.
Yeh if I want to land stranded wire on a receptacle without a crimp connector I’ll leave the insulation on the end of the stranded wire and twist it nice and tight, wrap it around the screw on your switch or receptacle and it keeps the stranded wire tight enough to make a tight connection. Works well in a pinch.
Well done, informative video. Thanks for your effort. One small nit-pick though, the 6/32 and 8/32 screw cutters have the same (32 threads/inch) "coarseness". Difference being the diameter of the screw.
On the Milwaukee 6 in 1 strippers you showed. You can use the bolt cutter as a hook bending point and if it’s in the closed position it sort of acts as a depth gauge too.
One favorite trick I use for solid wire is tilt the cutter 30-45 degrees to cut, then straighten it out. This pushes the insulation just a hair, breaking its bond to the wire, making it easy to push off. I also always crimp the wire on screw terminals; if the screw ever backed loose, the wire can't wander off in the box. Never use the push-in holes if you don't absolutely have to.
I use your wire grabber hole for pre crimp as it will allow the stake on to stay in position till you are ready to crimp. If you are in a jam and or do not mind risking damage to your strippers you can force a crimp with it as well.
The "mouse" ears are actually "plaster ears." The "ground" that he used is actually called a bar wire and if it is a grounded wire it is frequently one size smaller than the current carrying conductors. If both bolts have 32 teeth per inch the larger is not coarser. He did not shear the head off, hr cut off the excess bolt. Ron W4BIN
When you strip a wire, I have found that cutting at a slight angle gives you a little bit of leverage to pop the tip loose so you don't have to rock or twist.
I personally really like my Klein Tools 11063W, which are similar to the Knipex you showed, but in the same form factor as the Klein set you showed. I feel they give a really tidy result even if they take slightly more effort than the other type of automatic strippers. I still go back to the manual strippers when I need to tidy up a strip that didn't go well or I have to take off the smallest amount of insulation. Also, I personally hate the style of crimper included in most wire stripper cutters. That little dimple press makes such a crap connection and I would only ever use it for temporary wiring and testing. A proper pair of ratcheting crimpers or at least one with bigger dies and more surface area is totally worth it.
So many connections are not properly made, especially in automotive. I use my Kliens . Rats nests is a real problem in any field but pronounced in manufacturing maintenance . Glad to be retired .
Can you also use the tip to squeeze across the insulation to split it? In telecom, i used the underside of my diagonal cutters that had a set of teeth similar to the ones at the tip of these strippers in between the handles. I would squeeze the jacket of the solid ground wire, move up a little, squeeze again, and then peel the insulation jacket off and cut it. It could be used in case you need to take a little bit more insulation off of a hooked conductor. Just like you showed that you had a little bit more insulation then you wanted on the wire after hooking it. Split it with the teeth, remove it, and dont need to bend the hook again or cut the wire.
As a junior biomed engineer my favorite tool for stripping very small wires (24 awg or smaller) is the black xcellite universal strippers (similar to the kinipex at the end of the video, though I haven't tried that brand). However there is still a limit before it starts to damage the conductors. Starting on a loose (-) setting and gradually tightening until it strips helps. For extremely small wires (30 awg or less) I guess that heated tweezers may be better, but would love to hear from someone with more experience with small wires!
My favorites are similar to those Milwaukees, but its got more of a needle nose head. The middle is thick enough so they don't bend out of place. They last forever, but don't quite have the same leverage if you're trying to strip a hot wire without touching the metal clamp that holds it closed.
When he was showing the use of the needle nose, twisting the pliers back and forth like he was showing will loosen up the jaws and destroy the tool. Use the tool with the jaw pointing straight into what you trying to bend, that is using it the strong direction. Other than that, this is an informative video.
Doing some DIY ADU wiring and coming from a machine shop career, I was splicing a new 12 ga wire to an existing 12ga circuit and double-checked the new wire size because the Romex felt small compared to the old Romex. I put calipers on both stripped wires, confirming they both measured .080, which, in my sheet metal side of my machine shop experience, was 14 ga. Digging further I found wire ga is not the same as sheet metal ga. 12 ga in my world is .102, while AWG 12 ga is .080
After watching this I’m wondering if i should buy a better wire stripper. Mine shows AWG on one side and MM on the other. It also doesn’t have several of the other features.
The needle nose pliers end also fits the knurled rings that hold toggle switches in place in dashboard’s ect. Easy way to tighten or loosen when installing or remove without damaging toggle switches or dash.
Little fun fact from Germany, where Knipex is based: Those pliers and cutters from Knipex are cheaper here than the prices brands like Klein or Milwaukee are asking you for in the US. Considering all these things cheaper in the US compared to our market, tools seem to be the other way around, which I love as a tool enthusiast :)
I was 100% sure that I had nothing to learn about a pair of strippers. BUT, I didn't know how the bolt cutters work. I knew they were for cutting those "bolts," but I would never have used them because I figured they would destroy the threads. I never noticed they were actually threaded. I haven't cut many of those screws, but when I have I have gone through the trouble of dragging out the dremel and putting a cutting blade on it and all that. Just pulled my old trusty well-worn Klein Tools stripper out and tried it and it's actually really good. Thanks for teaching an old man something new about a tool I've used for probably thousands of hours.
You've used them for thousands of hours, and in all that time you never thought that they were included on that tool for a reason other than destroying the threads? 'Cause that’s a good business decision for a tool company, and customers would love to have that feature.
FFS
@@curt2742 no joke.
Along with.......dragging out the Dremel and putting on a cutting wheel and then of course finding the wrench in the same case as the cutting wheel to tighten it all down..... But that's exactly why you buy a Dremel, for small intricate tasks like this.
The easiest way to learn you don't know 100% of evrrything about anything, is to start believing you do.
Ppppp😅aqqqqqoxjvsj w. Q bsjanshjz😂h,e😊fhicj😊😅4oohhjdeirbbdjdñ😊@@curt2742
You're not a real man
I've been doing my own wiring (including hot panel (YIKES) change outs) and home re-wires for decades and am embarrassed to admit that I had no idea that the strippers could be used to make hooks for switches and outlets AND "bolt" cutting and shearing! Oh how much time and more importantly frustration, that would have saved me over the years! Great video!!!
I've always used that oval tip on the Klein as a wire connection crimper. It wouldn't work well for that on smaller wire, but for the heavier stuff it's fine. Also, I have one of those cheap, stamped steel and plastic auto strippers like the orange and blue one in the background. I think I paid $10 for mine 20 years ago at a state fair and it served me well during my time working in telecomm. Works just like the Knipex you featured.
8-32 is not more "coarse threaded" than 6-32. It's just thicker. The "-32" part _is_ the thread size. Otherwise great video! Thanks!
You beat me to it. Yes, they are both coarse thread machine screws, having a thread pitch of 32 threads per inch, versus the fine pitch versions at 40 threads per inch. 🙂
To be super theoretical, in a sense 8-32 is actually a finer thread than 6-32. To maintain the same number of threads at a larger diameter, their angle is slightly increased. Like the other comment mentioned, at this size, 32 is coarse and 40 is fine, but at 1/4" 20 is coarse and 28 is fine. 32 would be extra fine.
As @paulholmes672 said, it’s actually thread pitch, not thread size.
@@Lethal_Bite You are technically correct, which is the best kind of correct :)
Thread pitch, not size
I’ve been using kline wire cutters forever. Thanks for posting. This video is great for my wife and daughter. I’m try to teach my wife to do maintenance around the house because I won’t be around much longer ( maybe 2-3 months) and this is something she can reference if she needs to.
woah what? you wont be around much longer??
@@aesthetictap3401 people die man. illness sucks.
@@aesthetictap3401Don't worry she will happily remarry soon.
This is an awesome tutorial. Well thought out and put together. I will say it's the best one i've seen on wire strippers. Thank you for this video.
Cool!! Been using those for years and had no idea. Speed square is another tool that usually gets used for one purpose but has many.
Unlike the flat-head screwdriver. It has one purpose, but gets used for many. 😂
@@Guitarplayer724 I thought the flathead started life as a paint can opener and someone figured out they could make screws.
Sounds like you may be more of a Carpenter than an Electrician?
A couple of points you missed on features of wire strippers:
The needle nose teeth are meant to grab insulated wire ends (ring terminals, quick disconnects, ferrules and such) without damaging the insulation. This feature is great when you need to install these wire ends in a tight space.
The next part down is a pseudo crimper for crimping these ends on, but it sucks and I hate using them for that job.
Agreed. Don't use the strippers as a crimp tool...not reliable crimp. Also, use your lineman's to take off the 'Ears' of the device. They will do it faster and cleaner!
I didn't know about the bolt sheer way cool to learn something new and handy . Thank you
This should be should be shown to every man with tools, and especially young electricians!
And every woman with tools :)
@@risaoram Too small of a demographic but good for you. You got your virtue signalling points for the day!
Oh, it SHOULD BE, huh? What if you don't use this particular tool? Why can't the owner of the tool learn about his tools? And just who is it that's supposed to be doing all this? Isn't this why manuals and instructions and even videos exist. The world doesn't need hand holders. It needs responsible people
@@risaoramPeople who use tools should be responsible enough to learn what they're for. BTW, female technicians tend to do this for themselves. It's the males I come across that tend to need babysitters and hand holders and on site mamma's
I have had those knipex wire strippers for awhile now and use them daily. They are by far the best I’ve used and have not stopped working like all my other versions of universal wire strippers.
Knipex is the best !!! Better than Klein 1,000%
Interesting. I would never had thought the little hole was used to put a loop on the end of the wire. I normally just use the tips on mine since they are about the right width to create a perfect loop for most terminal screws on outlets and switches. Well thought out and presented information...probably very helpful for folks who have not done a lot of wiring.
The holes in the "Ears" of the receptacle or switch can be used to make loops as well
I'm more concerned how people didn't figure this out already. I knew every function of wire strippers since I was 8.
@@yaboidustin2447 True and after checking both my pair neither even have that little hole and there are better ways to do that anyway.
I know all these functions because they are written on the tool itself 😆 "loop" "cut insert screws" "crimp" etc
@@yaboidustin2447 then you had a good teacher
i'm using these tools regularly and like many others only understood the basic stripper and cutter functionalities. The pliers, bolt cutter, and hook maker features are new to me.
#2 is a crimper. Use them to crimp the little crimp caps or "beans".
No, number 2 is an extremely poor excuse for a crimper.
Anybody that as ever used a ratchet crimper will agree. They are cheap enough that you can do the job and connection cleanly these days. Any tradesman that comes to me house or business and used that for crimping will get my eyebrows raised.
@@gottliebdee263 Very true. And what's more than that(*) there isn't actually such a thing as a generic "crimper". Each type of terminal and connector requires a different crimping die to properly crimp and not using the correct one will oftentimes leave you with a weak connection or an otherwise insufficient one, often leading to pull-out, pinched cables, damaged insulation or conductors, arcing, intermittent contact or other shenanigans. I recently bought a proper set which contains a ratcheting crimping tool with interchangeable dies, which covers most of the common types of terminals and connectors. It was quite pricey and contains twelve different sets of dies for fourteen different types of crimp terminals and connectors, each with a significantly different shape. You can tell just by looking at the shapes that they are absolutely not interchangeable, while the crimp terminals themselves oftentimes do look quite similar in shape, especially the part where the crimp is applied
(*)You obviously already know this
@@gottliebdee263 So, actually "yeah, but i dont like it" is what you say. Its not great for sure, but if its one of these or some random pliers, or even the good old mangling side cutters, the "cirimper" crimper is brilliant.
@@BinaryBlueBull Ah, yes. I'd actually forgotten that point.
That said, to get a set that does the red, yellow and blue (ring, but and blade crimps), is well with investing in. They are reasonably universal. Once you get to 10mm2 cable it's a different game
Yes it is a cheap crimp, it will be effective for the gauge of the wire that you can strip
Ive been using strips for 40 years , never knew these functions ! Thanks 😊😊
Don't feel like the lone ranger. LOL I have learned something here to.
@@brianhouting5017 too
Besides the Milwaukee guy using the wrong way(timestamp:-11:15) to do a proper crimp on the crimp connectors this video was well put together.
The pin side of the crimper goes on the flat side of the crimp connector while the wire side of a crimp connector goes on the Crimpers cup side to get a solid crimp on the wire.
Otherwise you will get a loose crimp connection and wire can loosen and slip out of the connector overtime especially in any kind of place were there is constant vibration for the connector to deal with.
The good thing if you did the crimping the wrong way and find the crimp connection of the connector loose to the wire, then you can always flip the loose crimped wire in the crimper and re-crimp your connector to the wire right way and have a solid well crimped wire altogether for use.
Ya if you pause on his crimp you can see it's not solid.
Great tip!
Try crimping some wire connectors onto wires in person for yourself and then say that you haven't done/seen any crimping in-person so you don't have any idea of bad and good crimping for yourself.
@@chettiarsirusraj9501 Good point. My first crimps were not the best but with practice they're much better now. As for crimping though, I prefer to use a crimping tool over the strippers. The strippers are great for this in case you don't have the tool handy but I find they're not always the best.
Criticism is always easy. It generally says more about the one doing the criticizing. Especially if they have a need to be watching something instructional. Also, it's a great way to cause people around you not to want to be around you. When will it be their turn to be criticized? There are always polite and proper ways to note an error. Unless of course, you get off on trying to show up others. But that ain't you, right?
@@nothankyou5524 Correcting bad information on RUclips is always a good thing to do. There is a lot of it. The demonstration of the crimp function is completely wrong. Not only is the pin on the wrong side, but he is using the non-ins part of the tool for an insulated connector. If only people who actually knew what they weer talking about made videos RUclips would be much more helpful to DIYers. @Chet is actually doing the community a service here.
Here in the UK nearly 50 years ago I bought a tool similar to the Knipex stripper made by Plasplug. Although I don't do much wiring nowadays, when I need to these strippers are still up to the challenge. Nothing fancy just does the job it was designed for which probably explains how it's survived for so long.
i miss when things were made to last 50 years. I'll take my grandpas tools over new tools any day.
I’m just here to tell you how amazing the thumbnail is
Haha - thanks, brother. I tested three but one crushed the other two in the test. Great to see you in FL, by the way!
This is a fantastic easy to follow. Super comprehensive video. Thank you.
Damn! I've been doing home improvement for 30 years and didn't know alot of those functions. Excellent video. Saved to my "Reference" Playlist
Very helpful information for what these special pliers are suppose to do, thanks
Awesome tutorial! That bolt cutter feature is something I could have used recently as I encountered the exact use case you described: replacing a ceiling light with one that needed shorter screws.
This just followed another video i was watching and i am glad it did. i knew most of the functions on those but learned a few, thanks.
Those tabs on the switches and plugs in this video make good #6 washers on the fly for non-critical applications or stacking on mounting screws when the box is set a little too deep and a good, flush switch or receptacle plate installation is required. I've also used the jaws of that yellow handle stripper as a reamer for 1/2 " EMT or PVC.
Unbelievable that i have been using these for 30 years and never paid attention to stranded vs non-stranded side of the jaws. Thanks!
8-32 and 6-32 screws have the same thread pitch being 32 threads per inch.
6:10 Thanks for showing a failure and then how to fix it I truly appreciate that 😊
This was one of the most helpful and informative DIY videos I've watched in a long time. Great job!
Cool video on this type of tool. I knew several of the features already but I wasn't sure what the holes were for that you used to bend loops in the wire. So I am still learning. Unfortunately they make many different types of these type tools and some have even more features and at that point I think it comes down to personal preference. I think I might pick up a new set to keep in my little toolbox in the house.
4:45 - Using the (uninsulated) ground conductor to determine gauge of the insulated conductors. Be aware that on older "Romex" (NM cable) the ground conductor may be a size smaller than the current carrying conductors. IIRC, the NEC started requiring a full sized ground in the early 70's
Which is stupid as anything. If you need the ground wire because of a short, you don't want the ground wire to fuse. It should be larger than the others.
True that. My house was built in 1960 and the ground wire is smaller gauge than the other two.
I always wrap a few turns of black tape on the handle along with red/white/green and wire number strips just because it always seems like I’m on a 12’ ladder and I need an inch of electrical tape and it’s sitting on the floor or something. Depending on what kinda work you’re doing. It always comes in handy especially if you got yourself into a tight spot.
VERY good video and excellent information that I didn’t know (as a mechanic) but I have to do electrical work at times.
Thank you for putting out one of the most quality RUclips videos out there!!!
You do have my respect)
Thank you sir! I learned a few things.
Great video. Others have commented about 8/32 and 6/32 have the same number of threads per inch and thus the same coarseness. I will point out something else also. When demonstrating the crimper on the Klein stripper, you are crimping an insulated connector in the non-insulated position, the correct position to crimp the insulated connector is the one closer to the hinge point and is shaped much like the 'wire grabber' (#2 in your video) near the tip of the pliers. Some suggest you can use the 'wire grabber' to crimp, but that point is so far from the hinge point that unless you have extraordinary hand strength you will be unable to achieve an adequate crimp. While I have used such pliers, and other cheap crimping tools with good success, a dedicated crimping tool which uses compound lever action to achieve greater pressure, and a ratcheting mechanism to keep the pliers from releasing before a full crimp is achieved, will yield far superior results. These type of pliers usually have dies which crimp the connector at 2 points simultaneously and are specific to the size of the connector being used. I bought several different pairs to compare different brands, I returned all but the Klein pliers. The Klein pliers were at least twice the price, but the dies they had were far superior and achieved the best crimp by far. The best crimps are achieved in a single crimping action, crimping a connector more than once generally causes the the first crimp to loosen.
Thanks for sharing....I did not know most of the items the stripper does until now
Don't twist , it scores a line in the wire.
You don't try to cut all the way through the insulation , you just cut the outer sheath and tear the rest of the way.
The "wire cutter" blade is a strip gauge , the straight blade is the standard length you strip off the wire, if you need a longer amount stripped you use the holes to consistently get the same length.
Can you elaborate on the strip gauge? What holes?
@@queueeeee9000 the length of the blade is the same as the distance you normally strip the wire.
If you want to go a longer , and keep it consistent you use the holes as a measurement
@@glennchartrand5411 I see. Thanks for replying!
I don't twist, I make two cuts, the 2nd cut is 90 degrees from the 1st. No scoring.
@@John-jd7mm
I usually just cut once , grab the wire with my fingers and push against the strippers with my thumb and then rock my hand back
I HATE stripping wires with this type of stripper, but this was really helpful! Hopefully I'll remember some of these when I need them. 😂 I'm still using my automatic strippers 99% of the time though!
I use a scrap piece of wire bent in a U to go through the hook holes and keep the strippers closed when not in use. Protects the sharp tool edge, and fingers (for strippers without a close latch)
To avoid the focus issue youre having try to set the camera to a larger F-stop (aperture). This is the focal length of the lens and determines how deep the focus gets. Basically, the Portrait feature on phones use smaller F-stops in order to keep the focus on a narrow depth of field, ie the person, while redusing focus on the background. For your case, you need a larger F-stop which would give more focus leeway and allow you to move your tools up and down without affecting the video.
Thanks for all the great info. I just do minor around the house electrical work and this will make it easier and probably safer.
Love this video! I learned what I never knew! Even took out my pair of cheap Harbor Freight strippers to examine and try all those features! Thank you so much!!
Perhaps the most informative and useful video I’ve watched EVER! Thank you!
When I make the hook and put it around the terminal, I always squeeze the ends tighter around the screw.
Good video!
This was an informative wire stripper guide.
Love this video. So efficient and good safety points other videos do not cover.
Excellent video! One thing you should have said something about regarding stripping solid wire that applies to stranded also. Nicking the wire causes damage that if the wire is bent, such as pushing it back into a box, the wire could partially or fully break. Even a minor break can cause enough damage that should the wire be fully loaded or repeatedly overloaded, this damage will reduce the wire current carrying capacity and cause local overheating. Bad enough of a nick and it could cause an electrical fire or melt the wire. Replaced many electrical devices that showed signs of overheating, insulation damage or burned wires requiring cutting back the wires. I've seen this done by electricians too! Most common simple mistake!
When using the Bolt Shears, make sure to thread in from the threaded side.
If you thread it in from the other side & cut, you will have difficulty getting the threaded shaft out.
The fact that you felt you had to write this worries me lol😂😂😂😂😂
You would be surprised what some do
As an electrician I’ve learned it’s easier to, while gripping the strippers down onto the wire, hold the wire in your opposite hand, and with your thumb push against the head of the strippers, so you don’t struggle to do everything with your hand/arm that’s holding the strippers. Possibly wacking someone in the face if they stood next to you
Very nice video. Really helpful. Knipex are on the expensive side of things but they are reliable and you can change it's blades when they become dull.
I knew about the other features, but I had no idea my wire strippers had a bolt cutter! Wow
I had never had a wire stripper with a good bolt cutter. I think its a myth. I go for a mini grinder and small disk usually.
@@eraldylliklein tools hybrid strippers cut bolts like butter
@@andrewlacerenza667 Never had the chance to use their products here in Eastern Europe.
@@eraldylli the Knipex 13718 are very similar minus the crimping feature, but they cut bolts really great too. Highly recommended if in search in the European market.
@@andrewlacerenza667 - Knipex tools are great in the USA too
I love the Knipex automatic stripper, definitely worth the money.
Find you a metric pair for the bolt shears... They work great with brass screws. Brass rews are good for 3D prints, you can use them to quickly heat set holes
Handyman here. I use both the Milwaukee 7-in-1 and the Klein auto wire stripper, though I cut off the depth stop on the Kleins because it kept loosening. I hear the Irwin auto-strippers are better. I use a Knipex off-set mini bolt cutters as my diagonal pliers. Helps with my elbow, which is prone to inflammation. They've fit in every situation I've needed them to.
I bought an Irwin auto stripper and it absolutely sucks. Klein and Milwaukee so much better.
The Irwin auto stop is nearly useless and loosens all the time as well.
@@Obtuse94 Thanks for the tip, you guys. May have saved me a bad purchase.
I have the Klein Tools 11063W automatic strippers. They are like the Knipex shown in the video, but with the form of the Klein he showed. They have individual blade sections for each wire gauge, like the standard wire strippers. So, they are a bit more manual than the completely automatic strippers, but I feel they give the cleanest result for the effort. I use them a lot when doing automotive wiring and they are my go to over an automatic set similar to the ones he showed or over a standard manual stripper.
I have a couple of “name brand” auto strippers - believe it or not, one for Harbor Freight out performs them…
Great job making the video, excellent tips and tutorial.
Thank you, this is a useful video. However, at 11:13 the crimper should go the other way around, with the pin on the flat side of the terminal. The open barrel junction of the terminal needs to be closed by the round side of the crimper rather than opened up by the crimper pin.
I always liked my older Cornwell LS series wire strippers. Cutter is on the same portion of the strippers which are below the pivot. The older versions, the non insulated crimper was rounded enough you could use it on insulated terminals as well for an even better crimp without tearing through.
I'm an electrician and I use my kliens to strip everything. Unless it's a main feeder, other wise kliens for everything and I never have had a problem
wow I didn't know about the bolt cutter feature! Thks
I have no plans to strip wires. But now I'm ready.
Great video thank you for the information. I knew most of it but could refresher.
The Knipex strippers don't remove the cut insulator on purpose. You can leave the cut insulator over the stranded wires until you are ready to use the wires. The plastic insulator keeps the wire strands from separating and spreading out, leaving them much easier to deal with.
Makes sense. Kind of like how many fixtures are sold with the jacket separated but not removed.
Yeh if I want to land stranded wire on a receptacle without a crimp connector I’ll leave the insulation on the end of the stranded wire and twist it nice and tight, wrap it around the screw on your switch or receptacle and it keeps the stranded wire tight enough to make a tight connection. Works well in a pinch.
Well done, informative video. Thanks for your effort. One small nit-pick though, the 6/32 and 8/32 screw cutters have the same (32 threads/inch) "coarseness". Difference being the diameter of the screw.
On the Milwaukee 6 in 1 strippers you showed. You can use the bolt cutter as a hook bending point and if it’s in the closed position it sort of acts as a depth gauge too.
One favorite trick I use for solid wire is tilt the cutter 30-45 degrees to cut, then straighten it out. This pushes the insulation just a hair, breaking its bond to the wire, making it easy to push off. I also always crimp the wire on screw terminals; if the screw ever backed loose, the wire can't wander off in the box. Never use the push-in holes if you don't absolutely have to.
Well done.. 'thanks for taking the time.
I'm a diesel mechanic and work on Class 8 trucks. I use the Knipex almost daily.
I use your wire grabber hole for pre crimp as it will allow the stake on to stay in position till you are ready to crimp. If you are in a jam and or do not mind risking damage to your strippers you can force a crimp with it as well.
The "mouse" ears are actually "plaster ears." The "ground" that he used is actually called a bar wire and if it is a grounded wire it is frequently one size smaller than the current carrying conductors. If both bolts have 32 teeth per inch the larger is not coarser. He did not shear the head off, hr cut off the excess bolt. Ron W4BIN
Everyone knows the ears are for plaster/sheetrock. Bar wire is a term basically never used anymore. Shear/Cut same/same
never knew the cutting screw function. worth watching the video. thanks
When you strip a wire, I have found that cutting at a slight angle gives you a little bit of leverage to pop the tip loose so you don't have to rock or twist.
Another tip dont touch the tips of copper wires.they cut quietly and will show and feel pain later
Are you saying they will cut the user if you touch them?
I personally really like my Klein Tools 11063W, which are similar to the Knipex you showed, but in the same form factor as the Klein set you showed. I feel they give a really tidy result even if they take slightly more effort than the other type of automatic strippers. I still go back to the manual strippers when I need to tidy up a strip that didn't go well or I have to take off the smallest amount of insulation. Also, I personally hate the style of crimper included in most wire stripper cutters. That little dimple press makes such a crap connection and I would only ever use it for temporary wiring and testing. A proper pair of ratcheting crimpers or at least one with bigger dies and more surface area is totally worth it.
So many connections are not properly made, especially in automotive. I use my Kliens . Rats nests is a real problem in any field but pronounced in manufacturing maintenance . Glad to be retired .
Excellent video. Thanks for going over the different types of wire strippers and demo than.
yup, knew em all. also a stripping tip, lay the wire down in the groove, cut, twist it so its perpendicular, then pull. clean strip every time.
Thank you Sir, very good knowledge, two things learned today!
I Thank You! (Kleins data sheet was so very thin!)
Can you also use the tip to squeeze across the insulation to split it? In telecom, i used the underside of my diagonal cutters that had a set of teeth similar to the ones at the tip of these strippers in between the handles. I would squeeze the jacket of the solid ground wire, move up a little, squeeze again, and then peel the insulation jacket off and cut it. It could be used in case you need to take a little bit more insulation off of a hooked conductor. Just like you showed that you had a little bit more insulation then you wanted on the wire after hooking it. Split it with the teeth, remove it, and dont need to bend the hook again or cut the wire.
This video made me subscribe did not know a few of these things on a pair of strippers as I’m just a diy harry home owner thank you for your content
Great video! I agree not to twist when stripping.
As a junior biomed engineer my favorite tool for stripping very small wires (24 awg or smaller) is the black xcellite universal strippers (similar to the kinipex at the end of the video, though I haven't tried that brand).
However there is still a limit before it starts to damage the conductors. Starting on a loose (-) setting and gradually tightening until it strips helps.
For extremely small wires (30 awg or less) I guess that heated tweezers may be better, but would love to hear from someone with more experience with small wires!
Heated blades in general, but that means a battery to replace.
My favorites are similar to those Milwaukees, but its got more of a needle nose head. The middle is thick enough so they don't bend out of place. They last forever, but don't quite have the same leverage if you're trying to strip a hot wire without touching the metal clamp that holds it closed.
Amazing cinematography
When he was showing the use of the needle nose, twisting the pliers back and forth like he was showing will loosen up the jaws and destroy the tool. Use the tool with the jaw pointing straight into what you trying to bend, that is using it the strong direction. Other than that, this is an informative video.
Now that is one smart tool!
Doing some DIY ADU wiring and coming from a machine shop career, I was splicing a new 12 ga wire to an existing 12ga circuit and double-checked the new wire size because the Romex felt small compared to the old Romex. I put calipers on both stripped wires, confirming they both measured .080, which, in my sheet metal side of my machine shop experience, was 14 ga. Digging further I found wire ga is not the same as sheet metal ga. 12 ga in my world is .102, while AWG 12 ga is .080
Thanks great explanations on how these thing work.
Muy buen video. Muchas gracias por compartirlo. Bendiciones
Grainger carries the 7-1s I love them 😊
Thanks-a-lot!!! I knew of some, but not all of the applications. Great video !
After watching this I’m wondering if i should buy a better wire stripper. Mine shows AWG on one side and MM on the other.
It also doesn’t have several of the other features.
The needle nose pliers end also fits the knurled rings that hold toggle switches in place in dashboard’s ect. Easy way to tighten or loosen when installing or remove without damaging toggle switches or dash.
Excellent review. Appreciate your clear voice and absence of unnecessary background music.
Excellent explanation, thank you.
at 3:44 "wire puller" I have been using as a crimper. takes a little technique, but works in a pinch
Little fun fact from Germany, where Knipex is based:
Those pliers and cutters from Knipex are cheaper here than the prices brands like Klein or Milwaukee are asking you for in the US.
Considering all these things cheaper in the US compared to our market, tools seem to be the other way around, which I love as a tool enthusiast :)
Bien explicado 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. Muchas gracias 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great, a tool most people need
Learned a couple things thanks!
I use the “wire grabber” part to crimp connectors onto the wire, not sure if that’s correct but it gets the job done
Great video. I learned something new.