Not a pro, I'm a DIYer and "enthusiast" - the only mistake I would potentially make from this list is putting a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit. I would've reasoned it is over-built and therefore safer, less likely to have a heating/contact issue. However, I see the point that it might encourage someone to plug in a load that would be too much for the wiring and breaker and then you are counting on the breaker to save your backside. It is worth noting that many of the tips and "don'ts" from this video apply to wiring switches too. Finally, I was expecting something about using an outlet as part of a daisy chain. Personally, if I was connecting a mid-run outlet I would use pigtails rather than connecting both the incoming and outgoing lines to the outlet.
These are some of the best explanations of how to properly wire outlets (and light switches). Can't tell you how many outlets I replaced in my old house that were improperly installed over the years. I think I found only 1...yes, just ONE outlet that was done properly out of about 20. Excellent video!!! With solid wire I like to make a little more than just a "J" hook...after running the wire under the terminal screw clockwise and just snugging the screw down lightly, I then take my needle nose pliers and give that "J" a bit more of a curl...nearly a circle is made before I then fully tighten down the terminal screw. Full contact, and that wire is NOT coming out after that (just a tip I'm sure you've already seen, but many others won't bother with it). You can't be too safe when installing switches, outlets, or any other devices...it's just not worth doing it wrong or you'll be doing it AGAIN sometime down the road. Once again, excellent video!! Keep up the great work! 👍 EDIT: Oh yeah, and new sub from me!
Yes. I replaced my outlets. The electrician used back stabbing to install the receptacles. One outlet the wire had a big nick in the wire. I'm glad I caught that before any issues appeared.
Thank you for this. I learned alot. I have always been deathly afraid of anything electrical, but as a homeowner, I find myself doing more and more. This is SUPER helpful. Thanks again.
As a retired interior remodeler, my master electrician taught me well. I have adhered to these practices and still do for personal home repair... Great Video👍
Absolutely confirm backstab/speedwiring failure and danger. In my daughters room, the lights were flickering and we thought it was the light fixture or bulbs. Did it for too long... I am embarrassed I waited days to take a closer look. I finally noticed there was something plugged in the wall that usually wasn't... I wiggled that plug and sure enough... not only bad connection, but wall was hot! Never use those stab in connecters! Great vid and new subscriber
Thanks, awesome video. I upgraded all our outlets 12 years ago then suddenly on one circuit power went out. We found a loose black burnt wire that partially melted the receptacle and the breaker didn't trip!! I replaced it with a new 15 amp outlet and tightened it correctly.
This is a great tutorial for replacing a receptacle. Excellent for continued education or first timers. I recently completed updating all the switches and outlets in my residence. It’s a simple task, but it's also easy to make mistakes. Always make sure the power is off before you begin working. Additionally, inspect the wires for any cracked insulation during the replacement process. Since the wires are often bent inside the boxes, it's important to secure any cracks with electrical tape before seating the receptacle. The first step is in this video is very critical. Never disable your electrical protection by using undersized wire or circuit breakers. - DIY'r / Avioncis electrical tech turned electrical engineer
excellent teaching! im one that has an inner narural need of knowing WHY😊 and you came across where I feel confident in replacing a outlet ( i watched many videos, as I always do first) your voice was easy for me stay focused. Thank you for your time in sharing your knowledge in the manner you did. Very helpful! ❤
I've been working with a pyro crew the last few summers doing firework shows, and the point at 13 about not unbending wire, reminds me of how we ALWAYS chop the ends off and strip new leads when wiring because we've had wire break before and cause misfires.
My dad was an electrician he taught me well. Whenever I wire a house for myself I do "code plus one". That means go one better than code. For example a 15 amp recepticle is legal for 14 gauge wire..but.. 12 gauge gives you that extra safety for virtually the same price. Heck 10 gauge wire makes the circuit even more idiot proof if, in the future somebody adds on or changes recepticles or the breaker. My own house uses 10 gauge on all receptacles and 12 gauge on even the lights. For wire-nuts I solder the joint. A little butane jet lighter and low temp solder and you are done in 30 seconds. Then screw the nut tight AND tape it..all inside a junction box. Leave slack in the cables in the walls..that way when somebody hammers a nail into the wall the wire can be pushed out of the way instead of punctured. Remember folks..you wire things for your great grandchildren to use. Good wiring should be safe and sound a hundred years from now. Thats an electricians legacy..
Yes agree. Wire with 12 gauge but the breaker needs to be 15Amp. Devices shouldn't technically be used with larger wire and larger breakers. See it all the time. Convenience outlets. Once I saw a constant load of 18 amps. Device eventual failed due to heat build up (15amp device on 20 amp breaker.. It dryed up and cracked and terminal burnt with hooked wire. (Never push on.)
Daddy didn’t raise no electrician, that’s for sure…. Not pulling permits is going to cost ya a whole lot when you try to sell your house, or when your insurance won’t payout for the fire. Hate to be the NEC tekashi69, but you might want to make like those 3 blind deaf-mute monkeys, and burry all that deep down inside, cus you self-snitchin.
@@iamthundermug I agree with that - both copper and aluminum wire are soft enough to be mechanically bonded just by squeezing them together with ample pressure lol
But it is so much fun to pull an old metal box, being held by 4 roofing nails, out of the wall to get additional slack to strip the correct length! That's assuming it hasn't been stabled somewhere and you are forced to use a Wago connector instead with a pigtail.
Well I absolutely agree with almost all of your best practice suggestions and I love the receptacles with the clamps. I just noticed one thing that I would like to point out. In my program in Electrical Technician, I was told when using the wire strippers pictured in the video that one should use them to cut the insulation ONLY and not use them to pull the insulation off in one motion as shown in the video. We were told that this introduces a huge likelihood of scalping the copper conductor. So I recommended pulling the insulation off with your finger nail, or if you pull it with the strippers, position your hand at the jaws of the stripper to pull the insulation straight inline with the wire.
I'm in my second house. Both houses had mis-wired receptacles (the prior house was new construction). My brother's new construction house had miswired receptacles. My nearly new apartment before my first house had miswired receptacles. Problems include reverse polarity and missing grounds. I'm convinced every homeowner and I recommend also every renter should have an outlet tester, with GFCI test functionality.
@@Sylvan_dBHow do you trace the wiring back to where the wires are reversed if the wires at the outlet are ok, but the circuit tester shows it's reversed? In my case, it might be somewhere in the ceiling or wall.
@@DblIre It is probably not buried, unless your place was done with no consideration for code, which does not allow inaccessible connections (and hasn't since insulated wire became a thing). This means the problem will most likely be in a box somewhere. Start with breaker/fuse panel, then remove covers from other outlets and switches on the same circuit. I had miswiring behind lights on the ceiling (the last place I wanted to look) and in switch boxes. Lighting might be the most likely to cause wiring confusion because of using the white as a hot in a switch loop. (The last 20 or 25 or so years has required marking the wires used that way but not for most of the 20th century.)
With my penchant for overbuilding things I’ve put 20 amp receptacles on a 15 amp line thinking they were “stronger or higher quality”. Not any more! I’ll be using the commercial grade 15 amp from here on. Thank you so much for this tip!
This is actually one of the silly things in the video. You can plug a 20A device into a 15A circuit as easily with a 20A outlet as with a 15A outlet. The caveat in the presentation is, "if the circuit breaker does not do its job". That is NOT the fault of using the wrong outlet....and so not that fault of you doing so in the past.
Of course you can plug a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit. The reason is just imagine even if you have 15A wire with 15A receptacle, if the load require more current with a faulty CB, the wire and receptacle will still burn: the receptacle does not protect the wire from burning if CB does not work properly.
@dave242able Yup there are very few portable devices using 20A plugs (1 horizontal, 1 vertical blade) so most of the time there is no issue other than making sure the thinner 14 gauge wire is securely attached. But, there are a few devices like professional hair dryer, some heaters, etc that have 20A plugs so in that case it would not be a good idea to have a 20A receptacle on a 15A breaker and 14GA wire ...
12:30 - I LOVE this style of connection. So simple. Though what he’s saying here is really important, also. Easy enough to trim that but. I know in my home, that hook was made in 1948.
I know I've made a couple of the mistakes shown. Thankfully I learned the right way rather quickly from a close family friend who was a journeyman electrician. This is a very valuable video. In my opinion it should be on a loop displayed at every home improvement & hardware store.
Can't believe how much I learn from your videos...awesome!!! And having the link to get those commercial grade receptacles in different colors is worth the price of admission. Thanks bunches!
Sometimes you find things backwards. When I moved into my new home I started looking to add two new circuits in addition to the existing circuit already there. The existing circuit has a 15A GFI and two additional outlets. The wiring is 14 guage. When I opened up the panel to add two additional 15A breakers I found a 30A breaker feeding the existing wiring. Needless to day I changed that breaker to a 15A first.
I'm still watching the video and will comment as this is important IMO. I approximately 8 or more years ago I replaced quite a few outlets in a family member's house. I used the inserts as seen in #4 for all of them. About a year ago, when selling their house, I ended up going through the house to wire all of the terminals to the screw holes. Quite a bit of them had failed too with problems like the wall outlet shutting off when moved. Of course I did them for free as it was very easy to re-strip and coil them around the screws. This fixed all the issues that some of the outlets had. I'm surprised that they didn't tell me that they had issues as I don't even remember that they were all wired using the holes in the back.
Nice job….You are not just being informative, you may have saved someone’s life!! We in the field, see damaged receptacles and just say “wow” glad you are replacing this.
I have spent many a free moment searching for the combination bit drivers. Even looked in the Klein catalog (online) to no avail. Finding them here in your tool list was the best use of my time. I know a few electricians whom I have asked that don't know/own these drivers. I ordered the set having #1 & #2 drivers. Thanks.
Look close at the work harden wire at the edge of the insulation. You ringed the wire with your stripper. That's your break point. And it don't take much movement to break. Use the correct hole of the stripper they are sized marked for that reason.
One correction and one pro tip: 1) You can only put 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit if there is more than one receptacle in that circuit. If there is only one receptacle on the circuit, it must remain 20A rated by using the 20A receptacle. 2) Directly terminating stranded wire to a receptacle screw is bad practice, regardless of the direction you install the wire. Use proper terminating materials like fork crimps for a much better install. There will be less of a chance of a hot spot.
I'm guilty of the last one. I only buy commercial grade outlets especially because they're just better made, but I would straighten the j hook out because a lot of times the wiring isn't very long to begin with. Now I know better. Although I did run into two wires around one terminal while replacing an outlet and I fixed it with Wagos.
A couple electricians have recommended actually using commercial receptacles for my house. No need to loop your wire, just insert and use the right sized flathead to close the plate securely. I replaced all the backstabbed receptacles (house built in 94) in my whole house.
I did not see in your video plus reading a lot of the comments (but not all) but did not see this addressed. On future videos show the difference of the screwdriver heads - Phillips vs the bit DESIGNED for screwing the receptacle side screws in. As a DIYer, I did not know the difference. I happened to notice it at Loews in the electrical tools section. I paid the extra few $ and noticed the difference when installing new receptacles on a small remodel. One can torque the screws much easier with the bit designed for those receptacle screws. But like the idea of the torque screwdriver also. YES - agree with your assessment of using the commercial outlets for residential that has the plate that clamps the screw thus allowing a straight wire versus a J hook.
Retired service electrician here. On the reverse polarity, ac will not damage an appliance as the direction of the current alternates. However, there is a risk of electrocution. Also, a GFCI will not work properly if wired backwards. Unless the NEC has changed, you can use the 15a. Receptacle you are holding on a 20a. Circuit or else the 20a receptacle would not allow a 15a. Plug to fit into it. Last I heard it was the single outlet, not the duplex outlet like you are holding.
The 20a receptacle will allow a 15a plug because it exceeds the 15a requirements. It is compatible with both. It would be silly if the 20a receptacle worked only with 20a devices.
@@kd5you1 for a duplex receptacle this is correct. However, there are single 20 amp receptacles commonly known as a bullseye that will not accommodate a 15 amp plug.
DIYer here. I take the "J" hook one step further. (proper direction, proper amount stripped etc.) I take fine needle-nose pliers and close the "J" hook. Love the WAGO clips...they are fantastic for ceiling fan hookups.
You mean home owner who gives a sh*t. No pro is going to wast that much time. Remember how many of those connections he has to make so Mr. Pro is not going to bother because that will double his time on job. I am building a basement bedroom and wiring it all up and I will bother to pinch that j loop on each connection.
@@robert5 If he had just practiced making that j loop from the get-go then it wouldn't slow him down as he'd build "muscle" memory and get more proficient at it. Most of them are taught to do it the faster (wrong) way because "time is money" heh
I pinch it, but I'm not in the field and I don't make as many in a yesr as residential guys do in a week. Made properly, there is no problem. Or, just use commercial grade. Problem solved.
Double stacking fix- Make up both your neutral and hot leads with wire nuts inside box. Adding a short lead for each. Those leads can then be attached to the outlet. Just be sure to make a solid connection and use proper size wire nuts.
on top of what you are teaching, i would like your opinion on adding electrical tape around the entire switch or receptacle which covers all of the screws. I also would like your opinion on electrical taping the wire nuts.
Thanks for the informative content. I caught myself making mistake number one just this week. It seemed like a good idea, to overdo the capacity of the receptacle, until I realized the perpendicular slots could give someone the wrong impression about the circuit’s true limit!
12:07 Thanks for being one of the extremely few people that I watch that doesn't pronounce especially as ecspecially/expecially. Since this is the comment section and it is sometimes difficult to differentiate the difference between sarcasm or legitimacy, I am 100% serious.
Reverse polarity is super dangerous. Thanks for pointing that one out. I only do electrical work once a month or so. So I don’t trust my memory on this one. It’s important enough for me to look it up every time.
Great video! Very useful and good explanations of why you shouldn't wire receptacles a certain way and why the correct method is superior. I would also add that you shouldn't assume that the existing wiring has the correct polarity. I've seen several situations where someone ran a new circuit and reversed the polarity on the wire.
Great video, I’ve replaced a lot of receptacles in my house where the electrician used the stab connections. You see a lot of garbage in new home construction
Great videos! Thank you. You did confuse me when you showed two black (power) wires connected to the separate brass screws (not two hooks on one screw). Where would you use that unless you were breaking the tabs to use different breakers on the same outlet or for back wiring? If to back wire, isn't that also against code too? I was taught by an electrician to use pigtails and wire nuts to back wire multiple outlets. I am DIY, not an electrician.
I think overfilling a jbox is also something diy people do when adding a new circuit receptacle somewhere. At my brothers new house we found a single gang box with 7 romex going into it. Once I had pulled all the connections out I had no idea how the previous owner got them to fit. There is no way I could have gotten them back in. That was the first time I actually could imagine wires just overheating. There was no airflow at all. Oh I’m not an electrician. Just someone who likes code books. :)
Question on reverse polarity: I replaced a bad outlet in an old house that had the wires running to the wrong poles. I wired it correctly: hot to brass and neutral to silver. Was that the correct decision, or should I have wired the new receptacle like the old one?
Great video. I have a bathroom outlet that only works when the light switch is on. Had bathroom remodeled a few months ago and never noticed it because the bathroom doesn't get used a lot, especially the outlet. Now that I noticed it, what did the contractor do wrong?
They probably connected the wire going to the outlet together with the wire coming from the switch going to the light. Either in the switch box or they ran a wire going from the light to the outlet (which would be very strange)
The switch is run off the light, not from the gang of wires to the light switch. Lazy and or stupid contractor. Besides, depending where the outlet/receptacle is, should have been a GFI.
@@zacharymonroe1325 True, depending on the type of bathroom, also some are even wired from the receptacle, though in that case, it would be a GFCI. Still, in most of the bathroom renos I had done, a separate connection to the lights, and fan if there were any, was always preferred. The homeowners had a preference for that, once I informed them of the wiring setup.
That's true indeed , When my mom bought a new condo , I've had to replace a number of receptacles and switches because when they wired the place , They used those cheap receptacles and switches and found them back stabbed which caused light fixtures to flicker and receptacles to cut in and out such as plugging in a vacuum sweeper , So I replaced them with commercial grade receptacles and switches And there has never been any trouble since , For safety , it's well worth it to spend the couple extra bucks for a commercial grade receptacle and switch , I never use those cheap ones , Ever , Plus the commercial grade receptacles and switches last very much longer than the cheap ones
My parent's house had outlets in the finished basement (circa 1964) that only had backstab connections, no screws. I assume they don't make those anymore.
Cuts down on material cost and labor costs (faster to stab the back on 50 outlets versus making J-hooks & screwing them down. Multiply that by 50 homes in a new development tract, and the developer is saving $ and time.
I am glad to say, none of those issues found their way into my work. I am not an electrician and work on my own house as needed, including rewiring and adding circuits. All code requirements are followed. No, I would not do this for friends. At the age of 13 I was repairing appliances. I had the ability to look at schematic diagrams and figure out how something was supposed to work. At the age of 15 I drew house plans for the principal of my junior high school. He saw me in mechanical drawing class as I was drawing a house plan. He liked what I was doing and asked if I could do a plan for him. At 15 I also repaired our color TV and other electronic equipment. At the age of 19 my uncle asked if I could draw plans for an addition to his house. I accommodated his request, work being done according to plans and approved by the building inspector. Perhaps I was gifted to be able to do these things, but I always analyzed the problem and made a point to do things properly and neatly. My father spent 33 years in the navy and became a licensed electrician when he retired. My wiring met his approval. At the age of 28 I was taken advantage of by a car repair at a dealership. No, I would not let that happen again. I bought the manufacturer's manual and plenty of tools to do my own work. I say all this to point out that one should never blindly tackle such projects unless he has the knowledge or will research how it should be done. DIY can save you thousands of dollars. And your extended family will always treat you with respect. 😀
I like the wago connector but find that while you can't pull the wire out, you can still twist the wire in the connector. Makes me wonder how secure the connection really is. Wire used is in the size range for the connector.
I despise those connectors. A twisted pair of wires covered with the correct wire nut is a much better connection. They been used for years and no problems ever arise. The problem people don't put the nut on properly or use too big or too small of a wire nut. The new wire nuts that Ideal came out with are excellent. Push in connectors are ok with small loads like LED lighting. I use the Ideal brand of those push connectors for upgrading ballast to direct wire lighting. They save time and many times I must work with live wires. Turn off power when possible. 73
Great video! Quick question what is the brand or make of the yellow electrical tester called with the light. I want to purchase one for my husband and want to make sure I buy a good one. Thanks and keep up the great work.
I believe you are talking about a non-contact voltage detector. With it being yellow I am guessing you are referring to Klein brand which is what I use and think are some of the best available. Here is an affiliate link to the one I personally use in many of my videos and think is the best one they have: amzn.to/46LihYW Thank you very much for the feedback and kind words!
Insane that over time things have gotten so budget/profit focused that we ride this fine edge of danger, instead of just over protecting everything. Deep boxes, heavier gauge wire, etc. Greed is wild.
Here in Ontario Canada 15 amp breakers with 14ga is code for most outlets. The kitchen counter area calls for 20amp 12ga circuits. Modern LED lighting makes sense as it draws a fraction of the incandecent bulbs of 20 years ago. With few exceptions washers, refrigerators all draw way less than a generation ago. Larger guage wire doesnt address the elephant in the room....sloppy instalation..cheap receptacles back wired...flimsy 18guage extension cords running space heaters etc.
Good video.....this is why I don't do DIY electrical stuff or plumbing or any kind of housework at this scale.....I'll burn the damn place down without even trying lol Did have one question about the video though. On the part talking about the proper amount of insulation to strip so as not to have exposed wire or the screw resting on the jacket, you never showed a good rule of thumb or shortcut to get it just right. I assume there has to be one right? Good to know about the level sockets, I'll log that away if I ever find myself in a situation were I'm facing this....which hopefully is never! Because there's some things I have high respect for and those tend to be electricity, high pressure gas, and any machine that can exert more force than required to break bones or that weighs more than I do.
Thanks for the video! I like that digital torque screwdriver. Just an FYI… appreciate the added link, but as of today at least (10/19/24), it’s currently unavailable on Amazon. 🤷🏼♂️ That said, I Googled it & found it online at Cabela’s + a few other places… & wow! $75-$85! The Wheeler must be a really good quality brand. Similar digital torque drivers I saw on Amazon were in the $50-$80 range. For the avg. DIY’er, that’s a bit pricey for something I may only need occasionally. Although, I like the idea of having a torque screwdriver in my tool box j.i.c. I need it. There were several mechanical torque drivers btwn $25-$40. Is there any less expensive mechanical drivers that you’d recommend?
I've been doing all the upgrades and repairs on my house myself since 1981. According to the videos I've watched recently, my house should have burned down half a dozen times, flooded at least 3-4 times and I should have died more times than I can count. I must have an expert Guardian Angel. I build my own cars from scrap too.
And one of the biggest mistakes that almost all people make when changing out receptacles, is not using the right screwdriver, and or using an impact driver. Yes I’ve seen maintenance guys use impact drivers. The screws on most receptacles can accept a Phillips, flathead, Robertson or an ECX (recommend) driver. Most people don’t realize it, but the center of the screws are actually square, which is the reason why most improperly sized Phillips drivers will cam out, causing you to switch to a flat head to get more torque. The ECX driver is like a combination of a Phillips, flathead and Robertson driver all in one, and is almost impossible to cam out.
There are screws that resemble a flathead/Phillips screw but don’t have a square in the middle. The center is deeper than the edges and one of the X’s leg is shorter.
@@akbychoice I have seen those. It surprises me that the electrical code does not specify the type of screw heads to be used. They have only had a about 100 years to make them standard. The Phillips were designed to cam out under so much pressure. I have seen some receptacles that will not take the square heads. There is a JIS driver that I have not tried on the screws that may work ok for those screws. Looks like a Phillips but is a Japan screw.
I'm not an electrician but i play one for my customers quite regularly. Backstabbing... I had a series of calls over a couple of years with the complaint, "my outlets don't work." In all of those cases, the receptacles were backstabbed. Additionally, the receptacles were all bulk buy contractor grade - no branding whatsoever. 1) at one house while troubleshooting i wiggled the loose receptacle and could see arcing through the cover plate of the adjacent receptacle. 2) absolute worst case I found was that the receptacle was completely burnt on the backside inside the box.
Electrical engineering trivia verifiable through Leviton tech support: 15A outlets are not rated for 20A pass through. If you break up some end of service life outlets and compare side by side that little wire bar between the side screws on a 15A vs 20A outlet, you will find that the 20A is more robust to carry the extra amperage, just as a #12 wire is required rather than a #14 for the same reason. The proper way to connect a 15A outlet to a 20A circuit is to pigtail it, dead end, no passthrough that would end up overheating with a 20A load running through it. All my frequently used outlets get heavy duty outlets, everything inside them is more robust, your heavier cords aren’t going to start falling out of them any time soon.
But what if someone plugs a 1500 W heater and a 900W iron into that 15A receptacle? The 20A breaker won't trip, but there will be 20A going through the 15 amp receptacle.
@@pcno2832 As it’s said, you can’t fix stupid. When it comes to safety from an engineering design standpoint for certain things for the masses is that you can’t save the worst 15% of the general public from themselves no matter what so it’s not cost effective to try. There’s nothing but your common sense stopping you from trying to boil gasoline on your kitchen stove is there?
I am suprised you didn't talk more about the ground wire since its generally uninsulated and a good portion of outlets i pull from the box the wires were twisted as the outlet was mounted and many times when the outlet was rotated to put the ground pin up as per code nowadays. does anybody make any cords that hang naturally with the ground pin up? All in all and excellent video will then and yes you do have a calm narration voice. Looking forward to see the other video you pointed to. Thank you sir i know you saved somebody's house or their Life there
I'll disagree. You can pigtail it, dead end it but once you plug into the opposite side (top or bottom) you're going through that connector tab anyway. The receptacle is rated for 20amps period.
Because it comes down to installation quality. It is true that back-stabbing is an inferior connection compared to sire-wiring or back-wiring, but the connection itself, if properly installed is perfectly fine. It is just that back-stabbing is much easier to stall poorly, reducing its functional life. The Code assumes the installation is completely properly. That being said, it is likely that they will be banned in the near future.
You didn't mention another HUGE no-no. Some old houses do not have grounded circuits and their outlets have 2-prong plugs. If one of these 2-prong outlets quits working or looks old, never replace it with a modern 3-prong grounded outlet, which gives the false impression that you are plugging into a grounded circuit.
As a GC I find the most common cause for for doing things wrong is knowledge but number two is not having the right parts or tools and just cutting corners even when knowing better.
2 questions 1 I replaced a outlet on a switched outlet. Now the switch doesn't control the outlet, do I need to break one of those tabs on the side. 2 is it ok to use washers to space an outlet ? The previous owner installed new outlets but they are all sunken
Are the commercial outlets in your link "tamper resistant"? I believe that the residential code for my area calls this out. Maybe it's implied due to being "commercial"? I like that they accept more than 2 pairs of wire. If they're not "tamper resistant" do you know of an outlet that is and also has the wiring style of the commercial outlet you recommend?
Well, I bought my house around 5 years ago (new build). My CAT6 cable outlets were all wired (pinned out) wrong and ALL of my outlets were backstabbed. Needless to say, it took awhile to fix all of this myself.
On the receptacle there is a catch nub for the end of the loop -- so you can pull the hook past 180° and get a tighter fit around the screw. It is easy to reason that the shorter slot is the "hot" prong. If you plan you leads well you will work harden the wires less.
I ran a separate breaker and line for my shop. However....to put the wire into the back is only for 14 ga. wire. 12 ga. will not fit. Been putting a loop around the screw for years and never had any problems. The trick is to make a loop and close it around the screw with needle nose pliers. Saw one application where only a straight line was under the screw. No-no!
It would be nice to hear you explain to people (when talking about proper screwdriver use) to go over the differences in screwdriver sizes. Most notably how some "generic" #2 Philips heads will have more of a point like a #1 has, which is not good for most work. Having the head more pointed on these generic screwdrivers just means you can use it on #1 and #2 screw heads, making it more of a multipurpose, but because it is more pointed it will cam out more often when used on #2 screw heads when higher torque is applied. A proper #2 Philips will have a shorter tip (more rounded, or even flat) so the cross section of the head fits more firmly into the screw's grooves, for better and higher torque. I would say to try to stick with more notable brands when it comes to tools, but to the average person who doesn't know tools very well, that could be any brand that's been advertised to you more often. In the time of ads being over every inch of a website these days, this could get confusing. Even tool specialty stores still have "off-brands" fighting for your dollar. Some of these off-brands have even started to make a name for themselves, whether through ads or even sales. And some of them even make the tools very well, and should I say "properly". But not all do. Ironically, I'm partly convinced it's unknowing or even careless diy'ers (and workers) that caused the eventual downfall/downgrading of companies like Craftsman. A tool manufacturer that charged a lot more, for better quality and a LIFETIME warranty, just wasn't what the average person cared for. They wanted cheap tools that only lasted "more than the one time they needed it", or for other delivery type services. Which you've got to hand it to Snap-on for their ingenuity. I still buy Craftsman when I can, just because a family member of mine had a tool break after 20 years (none of mine ever have, yet), and they just handed them a new one, no questions. I like your graphical "red" flashing "nono" screen. Every time it flashes, it reminds me of every time I got a shock, lol. And while looking at you holding the receptacle in your hand when it goes off, is almost a jump scare.
Excelente information. Unfortunately, I found this channel one day late as I just replaced all my receptacles and confirmed these were done correctly just by using common sense. Always enjoy learning all I can, especially, electrical. Thank you!!!
What do you do if you're running out of wire to cut off inside an existing box? Would you just add an extra wire nut or wago an attach an extra piece of wiring? How do I minimize on how much space would have to get used up?
Another problem, especially for those in houses built in the mid 1970's is aluminum wiring. You have to use receptacles listed for aluminum wire when replacing old receptacles. Also if connecting copper wire to the aluminum wire, special connectors are required.
Every outlet in my house was backstabbed, until the first time I had an outlet fail. When I realized that the failed outlet was backstabbed, I checked the rest, and fixed them. There were four of them, with scorch marks. My kids and I were living in a fire trap, for three years, before I realized it.
thanks I watched a few of your videos this morning and I went and bought a new receptical and changed it. I live with my sister in a really OLD house. no ground and she uses the adapter for the three prong plugs. I plan on changing more. I want to change her breaker box to a more modern one. this one is ancient. she now has a GFI for her stove and I want to change all of her plugs to make things safer'
I guess what you're saying makes sense. Too people that don't do wiring much, but for somebody. That's been wearing houses for 30 years. It's a little bit silly. However, I thought that when you talk about the last Leviton. Receptacle that you didn't explain anything about the internals and if it's got the same amount of metal touching metal as the push in type. In the back of the receptacle that you had a problem with.
I always tighten the screws for the unused terminals. The screws are usually all the way out and are at risk of shorting against the inside of a metal outlet box
@35 yr ago I entered my woman's walk-in closet and flipped the light switch; I heard a "clunk" noise, didn't think much fora few seconds, then took the cover off the handy box. Old wooden house with conduit & metal baxes; box filled with lint. Carbonized lint arcing against box! Gained new respect for taping around conectors - especially in metal 2 X 4 box. Another time yrs later, newly rented apartment, went to change the lamp above the bathroom wash basin (switch down) and skin contacted threaed base in fixture - major buzz - hot going up to base of fixture where ought be neutral. Any place new check everything.
Let's clarify something about outlets. It is true that a 15 amp rated outlet is only designed to handle 15 amps. A 20 amp rated outlet for 20 amps. However the load meaning how many things you have plugged in determines how many amps you will draw on the circuit. The outlet by itself is not producing any load .
as a retired electrician , i found all these mistakes made by DIYers and from their electricians that was hired by the home builder. It would blow my mind to even wonder how the electrical inspector would miss that or the electrical supervisor let that practice go.
I've seen several people who even claim to be electricians saying to put the black wire to the silver screw and the white to the brass. That scares me cause I'm a DIY'er but I've always attached black to brass and white to silver so I guess I'm good according to this. I assume they think the taller port is automatically HOT wire
Be honest, how many of these did you find yourself doing? It is not abnormal for folks to find they have been doing 2-3 of them!
Not a pro, I'm a DIYer and "enthusiast" - the only mistake I would potentially make from this list is putting a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit. I would've reasoned it is over-built and therefore safer, less likely to have a heating/contact issue. However, I see the point that it might encourage someone to plug in a load that would be too much for the wiring and breaker and then you are counting on the breaker to save your backside.
It is worth noting that many of the tips and "don'ts" from this video apply to wiring switches too.
Finally, I was expecting something about using an outlet as part of a daisy chain. Personally, if I was connecting a mid-run outlet I would use pigtails rather than connecting both the incoming and outgoing lines to the outlet.
How often do you see a real 120v 20AMP plug? I used on of those for my work bench, but that's it.
None. But, I've been at this for almost 60 years too. 😉
80% of them ‼️ Thank God the building didn't burn down ❗
I have definitely used the quick wire holes. I need to double check, but I think some smart switches I have recommend it in the instructions.
These are some of the best explanations of how to properly wire outlets (and light switches). Can't tell you how many outlets I replaced in my old house that were improperly installed over the years. I think I found only 1...yes, just ONE outlet that was done properly out of about 20. Excellent video!!!
With solid wire I like to make a little more than just a "J" hook...after running the wire under the terminal screw clockwise and just snugging the screw down lightly, I then take my needle nose pliers and give that "J" a bit more of a curl...nearly a circle is made before I then fully tighten down the terminal screw. Full contact, and that wire is NOT coming out after that (just a tip I'm sure you've already seen, but many others won't bother with it). You can't be too safe when installing switches, outlets, or any other devices...it's just not worth doing it wrong or you'll be doing it AGAIN sometime down the road.
Once again, excellent video!! Keep up the great work! 👍
EDIT: Oh yeah, and new sub from me!
Yes. I replaced my outlets. The electrician used back stabbing to install the receptacles. One outlet the wire had a big nick in the wire. I'm glad I caught that before any issues appeared.
Thank you for this. I learned alot. I have always been deathly afraid of anything electrical, but as a homeowner, I find myself doing more and more. This is SUPER helpful. Thanks again.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Clay!
Excellent. Always enjoy these videos.
I love all the new receptacles and light switches. The problem is there is no room in the boxes.
As a retired interior remodeler, my master electrician taught me well. I have adhered to these practices and still do for personal home repair... Great Video👍
Absolutely confirm backstab/speedwiring failure and danger. In my daughters room, the lights were flickering and we thought it was the light fixture or bulbs. Did it for too long... I am embarrassed I waited days to take a closer look. I finally noticed there was something plugged in the wall that usually wasn't... I wiggled that plug and sure enough... not only bad connection, but wall was hot! Never use those stab in connecters! Great vid and new subscriber
Black is Brass, Chrome is Common, Green is Ground.... how I was taught. it helps some folks to remember.
That's a good one. I was taught Black gold (oil). Silver was a white horse (Lone Ranger)
Black gold was the only word I was told but yours is much more complete for a novice to remember all the wires. 👍
Black/Brass (5 letter B words), White to white metal, bare copper/green to green/ground (green grass on the ground)
White is bright. Black is bronze.
I've seen some off brands use chrome all the way around.. just look at the slots/blades the shorter/smaller one is the HOT
Thanks, awesome video. I upgraded all our outlets 12 years ago then suddenly on one circuit power went out. We found a loose black burnt wire that partially melted the receptacle and the breaker didn't trip!! I replaced it with a new 15 amp outlet and tightened it correctly.
This is a great tutorial for replacing a receptacle. Excellent for continued education or first timers. I recently completed updating all the switches and outlets in my residence. It’s a simple task, but it's also easy to make mistakes. Always make sure the power is off before you begin working. Additionally, inspect the wires for any cracked insulation during the replacement process. Since the wires are often bent inside the boxes, it's important to secure any cracks with electrical tape before seating the receptacle. The first step is in this video is very critical. Never disable your electrical protection by using undersized wire or circuit breakers.
- DIY'r / Avioncis electrical tech turned electrical engineer
excellent teaching! im one that has an inner narural need of knowing WHY😊 and you came across where I feel confident in replacing a outlet ( i watched many videos, as I always do first) your voice was easy for me stay focused. Thank you for your time in sharing your knowledge in the manner you did. Very helpful! ❤
I've been working with a pyro crew the last few summers doing firework shows, and the point at 13 about not unbending wire, reminds me of how we ALWAYS chop the ends off and strip new leads when wiring because we've had wire break before and cause misfires.
My dad was an electrician he taught me well. Whenever I wire a house for myself I do "code plus one". That means go one better than code. For example a 15 amp recepticle is legal for 14 gauge wire..but.. 12 gauge gives you that extra safety for virtually the same price. Heck 10 gauge wire makes the circuit even more idiot proof if, in the future somebody adds on or changes recepticles or the breaker. My own house uses 10 gauge on all receptacles and 12 gauge on even the lights. For wire-nuts I solder the joint. A little butane jet lighter and low temp solder and you are done in 30 seconds. Then screw the nut tight AND tape it..all inside a junction box. Leave slack in the cables in the walls..that way when somebody hammers a nail into the wall the wire can be pushed out of the way instead of punctured. Remember folks..you wire things for your great grandchildren to use. Good wiring should be safe and sound a hundred years from now. Thats an electricians legacy..
Yes agree. Wire with 12 gauge but the breaker needs to be 15Amp. Devices shouldn't technically be used with larger wire and larger breakers. See it all the time. Convenience outlets.
Once I saw a constant load of 18 amps. Device eventual failed due to heat build up (15amp device on 20 amp breaker.. It dryed up and cracked and terminal burnt with hooked wire. (Never push on.)
NEVER use solder on house wiring! Dissimilar metals create problems!
Daddy didn’t raise no electrician, that’s for sure…. Not pulling permits is going to cost ya a whole lot when you try to sell your house, or when your insurance won’t payout for the fire. Hate to be the NEC tekashi69, but you might want to make like those 3 blind deaf-mute monkeys, and burry all that deep down inside, cus you self-snitchin.
@@iamthundermug I agree with that - both copper and aluminum wire are soft enough to be mechanically bonded just by squeezing them together with ample pressure lol
@@3nertia never mix copper and aluminum. Aluminum requires special connectors also.
I've definitely done the "straighten the j-hook" thing, usually when I'm replacing a receptacle and there's very little wire in the box.
But it is so much fun to pull an old metal box, being held by 4 roofing nails, out of the wall to get additional slack to strip the correct length! That's assuming it hasn't been stabled somewhere and you are forced to use a Wago connector instead with a pigtail.
Well I absolutely agree with almost all of your best practice suggestions and I love the receptacles with the clamps. I just noticed one thing that I would like to point out. In my program in Electrical Technician, I was told when using the wire strippers pictured in the video that one should use them to cut the insulation ONLY and not use them to pull the insulation off in one motion as shown in the video. We were told that this introduces a huge likelihood of scalping the copper conductor. So I recommended pulling the insulation off with your finger nail, or if you pull it with the strippers, position your hand at the jaws of the stripper to pull the insulation straight inline with the wire.
This is the only way to strip insulation. Seen many times where wire gets cut and the loop fails (ie breaks off the end)
I'm in my second house. Both houses had mis-wired receptacles (the prior house was new construction). My brother's new construction house had miswired receptacles. My nearly new apartment before my first house had miswired receptacles. Problems include reverse polarity and missing grounds.
I'm convinced every homeowner and I recommend also every renter should have an outlet tester, with GFCI test functionality.
Did you use a receptacle tester to find the mis-wiring.
@@Rhaspun Yes. Those 3 little lights are easy and sufficient.
@@Sylvan_dBHow do you trace the wiring back to where the wires are reversed if the wires at the outlet are ok, but the circuit tester shows it's reversed? In my case, it might be somewhere in the ceiling or wall.
@@DblIre It is probably not buried, unless your place was done with no consideration for code, which does not allow inaccessible connections (and hasn't since insulated wire became a thing).
This means the problem will most likely be in a box somewhere. Start with breaker/fuse panel, then remove covers from other outlets and switches on the same circuit. I had miswiring behind lights on the ceiling (the last place I wanted to look) and in switch boxes. Lighting might be the most likely to cause wiring confusion because of using the white as a hot in a switch loop. (The last 20 or 25 or so years has required marking the wires used that way but not for most of the 20th century.)
For the life of me, I can’t understand how anyone wires an outlet backwards. Especially a subcontractor who supposedly does electrical for a living
With my penchant for overbuilding things I’ve put 20 amp receptacles on a 15 amp line thinking they were “stronger or higher quality”. Not any more! I’ll be using the commercial grade 15 amp from here on. Thank you so much for this tip!
This is actually one of the silly things in the video. You can plug a 20A device into a 15A circuit as easily with a 20A outlet as with a 15A outlet. The caveat in the presentation is, "if the circuit breaker does not do its job". That is NOT the fault of using the wrong outlet....and so not that fault of you doing so in the past.
Of course you can plug a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit. The reason is just imagine even if you have 15A wire with 15A receptacle, if the load require more current with a faulty CB, the wire and receptacle will still burn: the receptacle does not protect the wire from burning if CB does not work properly.
🤦🤦🤦
He is wrong. Your thinking is correct. Electrician, 35 years, contractor for 20 of those.
@dave242able Yup there are very few portable devices using 20A plugs (1 horizontal, 1 vertical blade) so most of the time there is no issue other than making sure the thinner 14 gauge wire is securely attached. But, there are a few devices like professional hair dryer, some heaters, etc that have 20A plugs so in that case it would not be a good idea to have a 20A receptacle on a 15A breaker and 14GA wire ...
Been using those commercial grade outlets for a long time now. Discovered them 20 years ago. Cost a little more but well worth it.
12:30 - I LOVE this style of connection. So simple.
Though what he’s saying here is really important, also. Easy enough to trim that but. I know in my home, that hook was made in 1948.
I know I've made a couple of the mistakes shown. Thankfully I learned the right way rather quickly from a close family friend who was a journeyman electrician. This is a very valuable video. In my opinion it should be on a loop displayed at every home improvement & hardware store.
Can't believe how much I learn from your videos...awesome!!! And having the link to get those commercial grade receptacles in different colors is worth the price of admission. Thanks bunches!
Sometimes you find things backwards. When I moved into my new home I started looking to add two new circuits in addition to the existing circuit already there. The existing circuit has a 15A GFI and two additional outlets. The wiring is 14 guage. When I opened up the panel to add two additional 15A breakers I found a 30A breaker feeding the existing wiring. Needless to day I changed that breaker to a 15A first.
I'm still watching the video and will comment as this is important IMO. I approximately 8 or more years ago I replaced quite a few outlets in a family member's house. I used the inserts as seen in #4 for all of them. About a year ago, when selling their house, I ended up going through the house to wire all of the terminals to the screw holes. Quite a bit of them had failed too with problems like the wall outlet shutting off when moved. Of course I did them for free as it was very easy to re-strip and coil them around the screws. This fixed all the issues that some of the outlets had. I'm surprised that they didn't tell me that they had issues as I don't even remember that they were all wired using the holes in the back.
Nice job….You are not just being informative, you may have saved someone’s life!!
We in the field, see damaged receptacles and just say “wow” glad you are replacing this.
I have spent many a free moment searching for the combination bit drivers. Even looked in the Klein catalog (online) to no avail. Finding them here in your tool list was the best use of my time. I know a few electricians whom I have asked that don't know/own these drivers. I ordered the set having #1 & #2 drivers. Thanks.
Look close at the work harden wire at the edge of the insulation. You ringed the wire with your stripper. That's your break point. And it don't take much movement to break.
Use the correct hole of the stripper they are sized marked for that reason.
Nice job!
Clear, concise and very informative!
Thank you!
One correction and one pro tip: 1) You can only put 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit if there is more than one receptacle in that circuit. If there is only one receptacle on the circuit, it must remain 20A rated by using the 20A receptacle. 2) Directly terminating stranded wire to a receptacle screw is bad practice, regardless of the direction you install the wire. Use proper terminating materials like fork crimps for a much better install. There will be less of a chance of a hot spot.
#2 is actually not allowed in some codes, i.e Ontario. One must crimp proper connectors on a stranded wire before terminating at an outlet
@@TveTop agree, it probably should be a code everywhere.
@@Tom-6502 I wasn't confused. I said one receptacle, not one duplex receptacle. So in essence, we are aligned in our thinking.
I'm guilty of the last one. I only buy commercial grade outlets especially because they're just better made, but I would straighten the j hook out because a lot of times the wiring isn't very long to begin with. Now I know better. Although I did run into two wires around one terminal while replacing an outlet and I fixed it with Wagos.
Thank you for this excellent "safety reminder" So easy to make this mistake if you are not careful. We all need this little reminder. Carry On Sir!
A couple electricians have recommended actually using commercial receptacles for my house. No need to loop your wire, just insert and use the right sized flathead to close the plate securely. I replaced all the backstabbed receptacles (house built in 94) in my whole house.
I did not see in your video plus reading a lot of the comments (but not all) but did not see this addressed. On future videos show the difference of the screwdriver heads - Phillips vs the bit DESIGNED for screwing the receptacle side screws in. As a DIYer, I did not know the difference. I happened to notice it at Loews in the electrical tools section. I paid the extra few $ and noticed the difference when installing new receptacles on a small remodel. One can torque the screws much easier with the bit designed for those receptacle screws. But like the idea of the torque screwdriver also. YES - agree with your assessment of using the commercial outlets for residential that has the plate that clamps the screw thus allowing a straight wire versus a J hook.
What is the name of the proper screwdriver bit for receptacles?
It ain’t an ‘Outlet’ Sparky, it’s a ‘Receptacle. 🙄 😆
Good Content as usual! 👍
Retired service electrician here.
On the reverse polarity, ac will not damage an appliance as the direction of the current alternates. However, there is a risk of electrocution. Also, a GFCI will not work properly if wired backwards. Unless the NEC has changed, you can use the 15a. Receptacle you are holding on a 20a. Circuit or else the 20a receptacle would not allow a 15a. Plug to fit into it. Last I heard it was the single outlet, not the duplex outlet like you are holding.
The 20a receptacle will allow a 15a plug because it exceeds the 15a requirements. It is compatible with both. It would be silly if the 20a receptacle worked only with 20a devices.
@@kd5you1 for a duplex receptacle this is correct. However, there are single 20 amp receptacles commonly known as a bullseye that will not accommodate a 15 amp plug.
DIYer here. I take the "J" hook one step further. (proper direction, proper amount stripped etc.) I take fine needle-nose pliers and close the "J" hook. Love the WAGO clips...they are fantastic for ceiling fan hookups.
A pro technique is to pinch the J loop with your needle nose before tightening the terminal screw.
You mean home owner who gives a sh*t. No pro is going to wast that much time. Remember how many of those connections he has to make so Mr. Pro is not going to bother because that will double his time on job. I am building a basement bedroom and wiring it all up and I will bother to pinch that j loop on each connection.
@@robert5 If he had just practiced making that j loop from the get-go then it wouldn't slow him down as he'd build "muscle" memory and get more proficient at it. Most of them are taught to do it the faster (wrong) way because "time is money" heh
@@robert5 Whenever some makes a helpful and sensible comment, there's always someone who finds something wrong with it.
@@robert5 Every licensed electrician will do the proper loop, it is the fool home owner that will not.
I pinch it, but I'm not in the field and I don't make as many in a yesr as residential guys do in a week. Made properly, there is no problem. Or, just use commercial grade. Problem solved.
Double stacking fix-
Make up both your neutral and hot leads with wire nuts inside box. Adding a short lead for each. Those leads can then be attached to the outlet. Just be sure to make a solid connection and use proper size wire nuts.
on top of what you are teaching, i would like your opinion on adding electrical tape around the entire switch or receptacle which covers all of the screws.
I also would like your opinion on electrical taping the wire nuts.
Yeah good question. I've seen it in a few crowded boxes.
Thanks for the informative content. I caught myself making mistake number one just this week. It seemed like a good idea, to overdo the capacity of the receptacle, until I realized the perpendicular slots could give someone the wrong impression about the circuit’s true limit!
12:07 Thanks for being one of the extremely few people that I watch that doesn't pronounce especially as ecspecially/expecially. Since this is the comment section and it is sometimes difficult to differentiate the difference between sarcasm or legitimacy, I am 100% serious.
Thanks for a comprehensive report.
Reverse polarity is super dangerous. Thanks for pointing that one out. I only do electrical work once a month or so. So I don’t trust my memory on this one. It’s important enough for me to look it up every time.
Great video! Very useful and good explanations of why you shouldn't wire receptacles a certain way and why the correct method is superior. I would also add that you shouldn't assume that the existing wiring has the correct polarity. I've seen several situations where someone ran a new circuit and reversed the polarity on the wire.
Good video explaining for DIY ! You should also mention don't ring the wire when stripping copper will break at the ring!
Thanks for this refresher course, good reminders here.
Comercial grade is my go to as well.
Great video, I’ve replaced a lot of receptacles in my house where the electrician used the stab connections. You see a lot of garbage in new home construction
Great videos! Thank you. You did confuse me when you showed two black (power) wires connected to the separate brass screws (not two hooks on one screw). Where would you use that unless you were breaking the tabs to use different breakers on the same outlet or for back wiring? If to back wire, isn't that also against code too? I was taught by an electrician to use pigtails and wire nuts to back wire multiple outlets. I am DIY, not an electrician.
Old Phone guy here. We used punch down blocks for wire connections, but I would NEVER use those speed wiring holes. Seem too sketchy.
I think overfilling a jbox is also something diy people do when adding a new circuit receptacle somewhere.
At my brothers new house we found a single gang box with 7 romex going into it. Once I had pulled all the connections out I had no idea how the previous owner got them to fit. There is no way I could have gotten them back in.
That was the first time I actually could imagine wires just overheating. There was no airflow at all.
Oh I’m not an electrician. Just someone who likes code books. :)
Question on reverse polarity: I replaced a bad outlet in an old house that had the wires running to the wrong poles. I wired it correctly: hot to brass and neutral to silver. Was that the correct decision, or should I have wired the new receptacle like the old one?
Thanks for all this info! I knew most of it, but I did learn a couple new things
Great video. I have a bathroom outlet that only works when the light switch is on. Had bathroom remodeled a few months ago and never noticed it because the bathroom doesn't get used a lot, especially the outlet. Now that I noticed it, what did the contractor do wrong?
They probably connected the wire going to the outlet together with the wire coming from the switch going to the light. Either in the switch box or they ran a wire going from the light to the outlet (which would be very strange)
The switch is run off the light, not from the gang of wires to the light switch. Lazy and or stupid contractor. Besides, depending where the outlet/receptacle is, should have been a GFI.
Prob nothing wrong. That's how a lot of older homes used to be wired.
@@zacharymonroe1325 True, depending on the type of bathroom, also some are even wired from the receptacle, though in that case, it would be a GFCI. Still, in most of the bathroom renos I had done, a separate connection to the lights, and fan if there were any, was always preferred. The homeowners had a preference for that, once I informed them of the wiring setup.
Maybe they wired it for a Radio to come on when bathroom in use
We all appreciate you taking the time to wiring properly !
I suggest a P2R2 bit for doing receptacles. Especially if your doing a bunch of them. It makes it much easier.
I prefer the Klein combination bits like I used in a lot of this video or the Milwaukee ECX.
Excellent video thanks
Lots of new house builds have been using the backstabbing holes.
That's true indeed , When my mom bought a new condo , I've had to replace a number of receptacles and switches because when they wired the place , They used those cheap receptacles and switches and found them back stabbed which caused light fixtures to flicker and receptacles to cut in and out such as plugging in a vacuum sweeper , So I replaced them with commercial grade receptacles and switches And there has never been any trouble since , For safety , it's well worth it to spend the couple extra bucks for a commercial grade receptacle and switch , I never use those cheap ones , Ever , Plus the commercial grade receptacles and switches last very much longer than the cheap ones
I’ve changed 6 house’s worth, varying from the 80s to the 2010s all of them were backstabbed. This has been a common practice for a long time
My parent's house had outlets in the finished basement (circa 1964) that only had backstab connections, no screws. I assume they don't make those anymore.
Cuts down on material cost and labor costs (faster to stab the back on 50 outlets versus making J-hooks & screwing them down. Multiply that by 50 homes in a new development tract, and the developer is saving $ and time.
Most of my Recepticle get very rare plugging into and unplugging. ..
Most get plugged in once ...and stay that way ...😂😂@@ironmartysharpe8293
I am glad to say, none of those issues found their way into my work. I am not an electrician and work on my own house as needed, including rewiring and adding circuits. All code requirements are followed. No, I would not do this for friends. At the age of 13 I was repairing appliances. I had the ability to look at schematic diagrams and figure out how something was supposed to work. At the age of 15 I drew house plans for the principal of my junior high school. He saw me in mechanical drawing class as I was drawing a house plan. He liked what I was doing and asked if I could do a plan for him. At 15 I also repaired our color TV and other electronic equipment. At the age of 19 my uncle asked if I could draw plans for an addition to his house. I accommodated his request, work being done according to plans and approved by the building inspector. Perhaps I was gifted to be able to do these things, but I always analyzed the problem and made a point to do things properly and neatly. My father spent 33 years in the navy and became a licensed electrician when he retired. My wiring met his approval. At the age of 28 I was taken advantage of by a car repair at a dealership. No, I would not let that happen again. I bought the manufacturer's manual and plenty of tools to do my own work. I say all this to point out that one should never blindly tackle such projects unless he has the knowledge or will research how it should be done. DIY can save you thousands of dollars. And your extended family will always treat you with respect. 😀
I like the wago connector but find that while you can't pull the wire out, you can still twist the wire in the connector. Makes me wonder how secure the connection really is. Wire used is in the size range for the connector.
I despise those connectors. A twisted pair of wires covered with the correct wire nut is a much better connection. They been used for years and no problems ever arise. The problem people don't put the nut on properly or use too big or too small of a wire nut. The new wire nuts that Ideal came out with are excellent. Push in connectors are ok with small loads like LED lighting. I use the Ideal brand of those push connectors for upgrading ballast to direct wire lighting. They save time and many times I must work with live wires. Turn off power when possible. 73
@@ronb6182 Wagos have been used for decades in Europe without issues.
The wago plugs are awesome, and for polarity issues, GET A SIMPLE PLUG IN 3 LIGHT POLARITY CHECKER
Great info. Any tips on grounding?
Great video! Quick question what is the brand or make of the yellow electrical tester called with the light. I want to purchase one for my husband and want to make sure I buy a good one. Thanks and keep up the great work.
I believe you are talking about a non-contact voltage detector. With it being yellow I am guessing you are referring to Klein brand which is what I use and think are some of the best available. Here is an affiliate link to the one I personally use in many of my videos and think is the best one they have: amzn.to/46LihYW Thank you very much for the feedback and kind words!
Insane that over time things have gotten so budget/profit focused that we ride this fine edge of danger, instead of just over protecting everything. Deep boxes, heavier gauge wire, etc. Greed is wild.
Thanks for making this video. I found it to be very informative.
All good instructions for the young folks and correct reminders for the Pros....Well done, thanks.
You are very welcome. Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Ralph!
Here in Ontario Canada 15 amp breakers with 14ga is code for most outlets. The kitchen counter area calls for 20amp 12ga circuits. Modern LED lighting makes sense as it draws a fraction of the incandecent bulbs of 20 years ago. With few exceptions washers, refrigerators all draw way less than a generation ago. Larger guage wire doesnt address the elephant in the room....sloppy instalation..cheap receptacles back wired...flimsy 18guage extension cords running space heaters etc.
Good video.....this is why I don't do DIY electrical stuff or plumbing or any kind of housework at this scale.....I'll burn the damn place down without even trying lol
Did have one question about the video though. On the part talking about the proper amount of insulation to strip so as not to have exposed wire or the screw resting on the jacket, you never showed a good rule of thumb or shortcut to get it just right. I assume there has to be one right?
Good to know about the level sockets, I'll log that away if I ever find myself in a situation were I'm facing this....which hopefully is never! Because there's some things I have high respect for and those tend to be electricity, high pressure gas, and any machine that can exert more force than required to break bones or that weighs more than I do.
Useful. Thanks for being to the point
Thank you!
Thanks for the video!
I like that digital torque screwdriver. Just an FYI… appreciate the added link, but as of today at least (10/19/24), it’s currently unavailable on Amazon. 🤷🏼♂️
That said, I Googled it & found it online at Cabela’s + a few other places… & wow! $75-$85! The Wheeler must be a really good quality brand.
Similar digital torque drivers I saw on Amazon were in the $50-$80 range.
For the avg. DIY’er, that’s a bit pricey for something I may only need occasionally. Although, I like the idea of having a torque screwdriver in my tool box j.i.c. I need it.
There were several mechanical torque drivers btwn $25-$40. Is there any less expensive mechanical drivers that you’d recommend?
I've been doing all the upgrades and repairs on my house myself since 1981. According to the videos I've watched recently, my house should have burned down half a dozen times, flooded at least 3-4 times and I should have died more times than I can count. I must have an expert Guardian Angel. I build my own cars from scrap too.
Overall it was pretty good!
And one of the biggest mistakes that almost all people make when changing out receptacles, is not using the right screwdriver, and or using an impact driver. Yes I’ve seen maintenance guys use impact drivers.
The screws on most receptacles can accept a Phillips, flathead, Robertson or an ECX (recommend) driver.
Most people don’t realize it, but the center of the screws are actually square, which is the reason why most improperly sized Phillips drivers will cam out, causing you to switch to a flat head to get more torque.
The ECX driver is like a combination of a Phillips, flathead and Robertson driver all in one, and is almost impossible to cam out.
There are screws that resemble a flathead/Phillips screw but don’t have a square in the middle. The center is deeper than the edges and one of the X’s leg is shorter.
@@akbychoice I have seen those. It surprises me that the electrical code does not specify the type of screw heads to be used. They have only had a about 100 years to make them standard. The Phillips were designed to cam out under so much pressure. I have seen some receptacles that will not take the square heads. There is a JIS driver that I have not tried on the screws that may work ok for those screws. Looks like a Phillips but is a Japan screw.
Hang out on a job site - almost all commercial builder sparkies use impact drivers now.
I have an ECX screwdriver.
What a PITA!
I never use it anymore.
It must be dead straight to work.
And it is too long! Why?
@@VideoArchiveGuy I’m on one now 😂
Great info on basics helped me out to be safe
I'm not an electrician but i play one for my customers quite regularly.
Backstabbing... I had a series of calls over a couple of years with the complaint, "my outlets don't work." In all of those cases, the receptacles were backstabbed. Additionally, the receptacles were all bulk buy contractor grade - no branding whatsoever.
1) at one house while troubleshooting i wiggled the loose receptacle and could see arcing through the cover plate of the adjacent receptacle.
2) absolute worst case I found was that the receptacle was completely burnt on the backside inside the box.
I have been thinking about putting hospital grade outlets in my house. Is this recommended?
Electrical engineering trivia verifiable through Leviton tech support: 15A outlets are not rated for 20A pass through. If you break up some end of service life outlets and compare side by side that little wire bar between the side screws on a 15A vs 20A outlet, you will find that the 20A is more robust to carry the extra amperage, just as a #12 wire is required rather than a #14 for the same reason.
The proper way to connect a 15A outlet to a 20A circuit is to pigtail it, dead end, no passthrough that would end up overheating with a 20A load running through it.
All my frequently used outlets get heavy duty outlets, everything inside them is more robust, your heavier cords aren’t going to start falling out of them any time soon.
But what if someone plugs a 1500 W heater and a 900W iron into that 15A receptacle? The 20A breaker won't trip, but there will be 20A going through the 15 amp receptacle.
@@pcno2832 As it’s said, you can’t fix stupid. When it comes to safety from an engineering design standpoint for certain things for the masses is that you can’t save the worst 15% of the general public from themselves no matter what so it’s not cost effective to try. There’s nothing but your common sense stopping you from trying to boil gasoline on your kitchen stove is there?
I am suprised you didn't talk more about the ground wire since its generally uninsulated and a good portion of outlets i pull from the box the wires were twisted as the outlet was mounted and many times when the outlet was rotated to put the ground pin up as per code nowadays.
does anybody make any cords that hang naturally with the ground pin up?
All in all and excellent video will then and yes you do have a calm narration voice.
Looking forward to see the other video you pointed to.
Thank you sir i know you saved somebody's house or their Life there
I'll disagree. You can pigtail it, dead end it but once you plug into the opposite side (top or bottom) you're going through that connector tab anyway. The receptacle is rated for 20amps period.
Excellent advice.
I'm amazed that the speed wiring holes haven't been banned.
Because it comes down to installation quality. It is true that back-stabbing is an inferior connection compared to sire-wiring or back-wiring, but the connection itself, if properly installed is perfectly fine. It is just that back-stabbing is much easier to stall poorly, reducing its functional life. The Code assumes the installation is completely properly. That being said, it is likely that they will be banned in the near future.
You didn't mention another HUGE no-no. Some old houses do not have grounded circuits and their outlets have 2-prong plugs. If one of these 2-prong outlets quits working or looks old, never replace it with a modern 3-prong grounded outlet, which gives the false impression that you are plugging into a grounded circuit.
As a GC I find the most common cause for for doing things wrong is knowledge but number two is not having the right parts or tools and just cutting corners even when knowing better.
Fridays and Mondays are 3rd and fourth.
Operator error is #5.
2 questions 1 I replaced a outlet on a switched outlet. Now the switch doesn't control the outlet, do I need to break one of those tabs on the side. 2 is it ok to use washers to space an outlet ? The previous owner installed new outlets but they are all sunken
Are the commercial outlets in your link "tamper resistant"? I believe that the residential code for my area calls this out. Maybe it's implied due to being "commercial"? I like that they accept more than 2 pairs of wire. If they're not "tamper resistant" do you know of an outlet that is and also has the wiring style of the commercial outlet you recommend?
The one shown is not tamper resistant. However, there are commercial grade outlets available that are.
Well, I bought my house around 5 years ago (new build). My CAT6 cable outlets were all wired (pinned out) wrong and ALL of my outlets were backstabbed. Needless to say, it took awhile to fix all of this myself.
On the receptacle there is a catch nub for the end of the loop -- so you can pull the hook past 180° and get a tighter fit around the screw. It is easy to reason that the shorter slot is the "hot" prong. If you plan you leads well you will work harden the wires less.
I ran a separate breaker and line for my shop. However....to put the wire into the back is only for 14 ga. wire. 12 ga. will not fit. Been putting a loop around the screw for years and never had any problems. The trick is to make a loop and close it around the screw with needle nose pliers. Saw one application where only a straight line was under the screw. No-no!
It would be nice to hear you explain to people (when talking about proper screwdriver use) to go over the differences in screwdriver sizes. Most notably how some "generic" #2 Philips heads will have more of a point like a #1 has, which is not good for most work. Having the head more pointed on these generic screwdrivers just means you can use it on #1 and #2 screw heads, making it more of a multipurpose, but because it is more pointed it will cam out more often when used on #2 screw heads when higher torque is applied. A proper #2 Philips will have a shorter tip (more rounded, or even flat) so the cross section of the head fits more firmly into the screw's grooves, for better and higher torque.
I would say to try to stick with more notable brands when it comes to tools, but to the average person who doesn't know tools very well, that could be any brand that's been advertised to you more often. In the time of ads being over every inch of a website these days, this could get confusing. Even tool specialty stores still have "off-brands" fighting for your dollar. Some of these off-brands have even started to make a name for themselves, whether through ads or even sales. And some of them even make the tools very well, and should I say "properly". But not all do. Ironically, I'm partly convinced it's unknowing or even careless diy'ers (and workers) that caused the eventual downfall/downgrading of companies like Craftsman. A tool manufacturer that charged a lot more, for better quality and a LIFETIME warranty, just wasn't what the average person cared for. They wanted cheap tools that only lasted "more than the one time they needed it", or for other delivery type services. Which you've got to hand it to Snap-on for their ingenuity. I still buy Craftsman when I can, just because a family member of mine had a tool break after 20 years (none of mine ever have, yet), and they just handed them a new one, no questions.
I like your graphical "red" flashing "nono" screen. Every time it flashes, it reminds me of every time I got a shock, lol. And while looking at you holding the receptacle in your hand when it goes off, is almost a jump scare.
Wonderfully informative. Thank you.
Excelente information. Unfortunately, I found this channel one day late as I just replaced all my receptacles and confirmed these were done correctly just by using common sense.
Always enjoy learning all I can, especially, electrical.
Thank you!!!
What do you do if you're running out of wire to cut off inside an existing box? Would you just add an extra wire nut or wago an attach an extra piece of wiring? How do I minimize on how much space would have to get used up?
Another problem, especially for those in houses built in the mid 1970's is aluminum wiring. You have to use receptacles listed for aluminum wire when replacing old receptacles. Also if connecting copper wire to the aluminum wire, special connectors are required.
Every outlet in my house was backstabbed, until the first time I had an outlet fail. When I realized that the failed outlet was backstabbed, I checked the rest, and fixed them. There were four of them, with scorch marks. My kids and I were living in a fire trap, for three years, before I realized it.
thanks I watched a few of your videos this morning and I went and bought a new receptical and changed it. I live with my sister in a really OLD house. no ground and she uses the adapter for the three prong plugs. I plan on changing more. I want to change her breaker box to a more modern one. this one is ancient. she now has a GFI for her stove and I want to change all of her plugs to make things safer'
I guess what you're saying makes sense. Too people that don't do wiring much, but for somebody. That's been wearing houses for 30 years. It's a little bit silly. However, I thought that when you talk about the last Leviton. Receptacle that you didn't explain anything about the internals and if it's got the same amount of metal touching metal as the push in type. In the back of the receptacle that you had a problem with.
I always tighten the screws for the unused terminals. The screws are usually all the way out and are at risk of shorting against the inside of a metal outlet box
@35 yr ago I entered my woman's walk-in closet and flipped the light switch; I heard a "clunk" noise, didn't think much fora few seconds, then took the cover off the handy box. Old wooden house with conduit & metal baxes; box filled with lint. Carbonized lint arcing against box! Gained new respect for taping around conectors - especially in metal 2 X 4 box. Another time yrs later, newly rented apartment, went to change the lamp above the bathroom wash basin (switch down) and skin contacted threaed base in fixture - major buzz - hot going up to base of fixture where ought be neutral. Any place new check everything.
Thanks very much for all the info ... Very helpful
Let's clarify something about outlets.
It is true that a 15 amp rated outlet is only designed to handle 15 amps.
A 20 amp rated outlet for 20 amps.
However the load meaning how many things you have plugged in determines how many amps you will draw on the circuit.
The outlet by itself is not producing any load .
Wonder.. should the black and white wires be chriss crossed on the back of the outlet..ex..black to the upper outlet and white to the lower outlet??
@@spencerdavis5257 black wire always on the gold color screw.
White on the silver color screw.
@@spencerdavis5257 black wire always on the gold color screw.
White on the silver color screw.
@@spencerdavis5257 black wire always on the gold color screw.
White on the silver color screw.
@@spencerdavis5257It makes no difference unless the tab between them is broken off.
Tyfs Adam. Electrical is my biggest fear, so I will never ever try to Diy anything electrical in my house. Too frightening to me.
as a retired electrician , i found all these mistakes made by DIYers and from their electricians that was hired by the home builder. It would blow my mind to even wonder how the electrical inspector would miss that or the electrical supervisor let that practice go.
I've seen several people who even claim to be electricians saying to put the black wire to the silver screw and the white to the brass. That scares me cause I'm a DIY'er but I've always attached black to brass and white to silver so I guess I'm good according to this. I assume they think the taller port is automatically HOT wire