Everyone who makes instructional videos should copy the The DIY Guy. Simple, concise and perfect, unlike some who waffle on and on ad nauseam before actually getting to the point. Thank you, DIY Guy.
Two additions, that may increase savety, when working on electric installations. 1) Always start with the earth wire. If you do that, earth will always be connected first and provide that scant more of sefety, if something goes wrong. 2) Always make the earth wire a bit longer than the other two. So if something gets pulled out, or pulled apart, it loses connection last.
This is exactly what I do when working on anything that requires mains voltage it's also good to remember when your soldering onto tabs for a battery or the battery onto a circuit board that you do negative first positive second and always cover the end of the positive when it's not soldered to anything no-one will thank you for a direct short on a lithium battery
I have to add this after reading one of the comments below. I played a practical joke on an electrician once. I’m a carpenter and was fitting a fancy electric cupboard in a posh flat in London. The electrician had left about six feet extra on all the cables coming into the cupboard of which there were about 50 or more because it was for a complex system of lighting, audio, video, power sockets, etc with points for everything in every room, you name it this place had it and all the cables were carefully labelled. I had now reached the stage where I had to fit doors on this cupboard but try as I might I could coil up this mass of wires and stuff them into the cupboard far enough to be able to fit the doors. So there was nothing for it but to figure out how much I needed to reduce the bundle while still leaving reasonable lengths on the wires and cut them back. I figured about 3 feet would do it. So I sat down and painstakingly relabelled each wire four feet further up carefully copying precisely all his letters and hieroglyphs, then I cut them all off at three feet but I kept the bundle of ends with the original labels. Next day I was first on the job as usual and waited for the electrician to turn up then I approached him as he entered saying “ Oh Steve, sorry mate I had to fit doors on that electric cupboard but couldn’t get the wires in so I had to cut them back a bit, but don’t worry I saved all the ends with your labels on”! Well his face was a picture, he dropped his bag and just stood in the hallway open mouthed, looking from me to the wires then to the now fitted and closed doors on the cupboard then back to the wires and his labels then me again and finally managed to splutter out “ you twat!” ( actually he used a worse word than that but I can’t write it here) I managed to keep a straight face and said, “ there’s no need for that it took me ages to cut through this lot” then spitting and snarling he rushed over to the cupboard and tanked the doors open and looked inside… and then after a pause collapsed on the floor in a quivering heap letting out a noise that was somewhere between agonising pain and ecstasy jibbering the words “Thank Christ you cruel bastard I nearly had a heart attack!” It was priceless! Best joke I ever played on a tradesman!
I'm an electrical engineer, and I'm still glad I took 2 residential wiring courses at the local VoTech. I've run a lot of circuits in my house and it was money well spent. Excellent Video.
Wow I am amazed how simple it is in your country. Especially the part where the entire switch board is connected once and not individually to all switches and sockets
Thank you DIY Guy. Had this problem last week for a relative and was unsure the best way to tackle this. I also used your Amazon links and saved a load of money. Thumbs up from me.
Guys if extending a socket with only one cable supplying it ALWAYS DOUBLE OVER THE END GOING IN TO THE BACK OF THE SOCKET. It's reduces the chance of the copper breaking off when tightening. The rest of the video is Spot on 👌👊👊
Brilliant video. A previous owner has placed 2 double sockets on top of the skirting board and they look daft! I’ve been searching for a video that shows how to extend the cables so that I can move the sockets up the wall. Thank you so much! 👍👍
I am a 68 year old time served electrician, the first thing I would do is put pressure on the cable to release it from tower clips to gain enough slack if possible.
I've always been a little afraid of electrics , largely because I found the tec jargon confusing so i shyed away and never learnt, but you make your video so clear and understandable I feel confident too have a go . Don't worry though, a friend of mine is an electrician so he can check 😂
You've never done electric because you're afraid of the jargon? Wow. And I thought sure when I started reading your comment that you were going to say that you are afraid of getting electrocuted. So you're more concerned about the jargon then you are the electricity. Gotcha. 😊
When showing the use of either crimp- or in-line pushfit connectors, it would be helpful also to show their removal, in the case that there is faulty connection, and you need to remove the connector without shortening the already short conductors. I know how, but it is not necessarily intuitive that the push fit connectors can be twisted off, and the crimped connectors may be loosened with pliers to open up the crimped section.
Tips like these are SO useful for us DIYers. Especially those getting on a bit who may have picked up some 'tricks' over the years but now find that such 'tricks' are so out of date. Thanks for posting!
Please, a solution looking for a problem, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
I use WAGO connectors. You can easily remove them if you need to , but they do lock on tight with the lever. They sell multiple different types. Really good...WAGO is UL approved and legal.
Crikey, things have moved on a lot, always used crimps, now will defo get those new fangled connectors. My crimp tools are far inferior to your posh ones anyway, so the job takes far longer. Very well and clearly explained, no gimmicks, just good professionalism. Well done. and thanks. Now subscribed.
The second type of fitting reminds me of the "backstab" connections they still put on outlets in N. America. They work the same way, but are known for overheating. Maybe the ones in this video (which I've seen at Home Depot) are better made, maybe with higher quality contacts and/or anti-oxidation paste. The insulated crimps are probably fine with a proper (and expensive) crimping tool, but I've had terrible luck trying to crimp them with vise grips, though, for some reason, vise grips work fine with un-insulated copper crimps & heat shrink tubing (which may or may not be legal). They even have a special type of crimp, and crimper, over here that's supposed to cold-weld copper pigtails to the aluminum wiring they used for a while in the 1960s; it's supposed to be one of the only reliable ways to connect aluminum to normal switches and outlets.
This guy reminds me of photonic induction, minus the impulsiveness, self-destruction, and little regard for safety. So put another way, thanks for the coherent and simple tutorial!
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time No. Solder can fail on fault condition as the wires can heat up and melt the solder. It is bad practice to resort only to solder for joining wires for high load (ie house mains) as can fail due to heat cycling. It is OK to solder multi-strand wire - then clamp - to protect the strands being cut by the clamp, but we still physically clamp the wires and they will not release in fault condition.
Thanks for the video. This reminds me when my Dad was project managing the build of our new house many years ago - He was always tidying up every evening when trades would leave the site - He cut the tails of the cables unaware the electrician had them labelled. When the electrician did turn up hung over from drink he walked straight of the job and never came back - I thought it was hilarious but my Dad was furious.
I know that code differs between countries but where I'm from conduit is required when running cables in walls. That has the side effect that it is a bit easier to replace too short wiring or adding. So even if it is not required, if it is allowed I highly recommend adding proper conduit when adding electrical to new walls.
All these guys killed it, I ain't heard that version of cam in a minute, it amazes me though how much Mas$ and fan sound identical, I could hear fab rapping that entire verde
I would have doubled over the socket side of the wires to get a better connection in a large opening. It gives a much better and secure connection the screw.
if you want a good and secure connection then PULL A NEW CABLE AND STOP CLOWNING AROUND. Real electricains NEVER come across the issue of "oh I pulled a short cable woopsie" because we're not incompetent idiots. This is basic. You're not an electrician, you got no business messing with wires, HANDS OFF. If I see you do this, I know you got no clue as to what you're doing. And don't think that sockets are as gigantic as the one in the video, even the english ones, but you didn't knew that because you're not an electrician. You won't have space to clown around making a spaghetti inside with loops "for a much better and secure connection". You don't even realize your oxymoron, you want a secure connection yet you use a butt connector? Oh wait, you didn't even knew what they were called.
Blimey I've been crimping for years (and messed up a few due to not ensuring the wire was inserted fully before squeezing the handles on the crimp tool). This in-line splice idea is brilliant.
so... you're been crimping wrong... and somehow you didn't learn how to crimp right after YEARS of failing... and you're gonna continue doing it. You think this is a game? You're gonna get someone killed. And this comment has 24 likes. Wow.
Your box there is way better than any box I’ve ever seen in the US. I love that the plate mounting holes are tapped with a deeper thread. Our receptacles have very cheap mounting threads.
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time electricians generally don't solder cables together in a situation like this.the only time we ever really solder is when connecting to led tape,or similar. Sometimes we solder the ends of flex to make it easier to connect to a terminal too,but we never solder cables together in a situation like this. Through crimps are the general go to,and the inline push connectors he mentioned in the video are becoming more popular. You're right about using heat shrink,but the soldering isn't common for electricians. More so in the electronics world,and BMS type work
Hi there As a retired Electro-Mechanical Engineer (75) I would have thought that terminating the three wires in the socket while sitting at a table/sat on the floor/ etc and then when that's done taking your socket down to the position where it is going and push the three wires using a splice (or SIX if working on a ring) into the socket, saves all that messing about. It's all about time which contributes to your bottom line. BUT always remember safety first. As of 15th January 2024, I have just watched this again, but this has been nagging me. Please correct me if I am wrong but I am almost positive that you need an IEE certification ( 16th / 17th Edition etc. ) to install a NEW socket, this does not apply when changing like for like, I have been out of the industry now for several years, so things might have changed, but this is a safety aspect so I can't imagine this would not change.
You are correct. However you have to be realistic as well. Please try this......Ring your local electricians and see how many are interested in coming out to put a new socket in (just the one) and tell us how many out of the 10 your rang were: 1. Willing to come out and do it. 2. Came and gave you a ridiculous price. 3. Said 'yes' they would come out and do it and actually showed up ! Electricians are in short supply (as are other trades) and you are really going to struggle to find your 'ideal' qualified engineer who charges a reasonable sum. Finally, what would you consider a reasonable charge for putting a new socket in.
if you got the bs7671 and 1000x ESPECIALLY if you are a so-called "electro-mechanical engineer (75)' then you should never start with "please correct me if I am wrong" especially not with something as simple as a freaking WALL SOCKET or WIRES EXTENDED WITH BUTT CONNECTORS IF THEY'RE TOO SHORT. You have to be senile, incompetent, or lying. Electricians have to be confident, we can put our hands on wires with NO FEAR because we know what we're doing, we know how to properly test wires, we know when it's 100% safe to touch and when it can be energized. But then you're talking about "new sockets"? What? New or old, it's irrelevant. stop clowning around. You know that when the inspections and testing comes around, we're gonna detect your little mistake on the impedence test, right? Especially when you got one of those old houses with DIY electrics full of butt connectors and we can both bet that you're gonna crimp it poorly with the wrong size. Since you love youtube vids, go on artisan electrics and count how many times you see them using butt connectors "cause the cables are too short". And notice how many times they just pull a whole new cable. Or how many times they use butt connectors AT ALL. That's the difference between you and them, they're electricians, you're not. Next you're gonna suggest using isolation tape too.
@@wayland7150 you could use your teeth, but if you do it too much, one day you'll lose a tooth or chip it. it's a matter of time. not recommended to use your teeth to strip wire unless it's an absolute emergency
They're excellent. The one he has is Stanley but there are Chinese knock offs as well now. Some much quicker than old strippers and weirdly satisfying as well!
Those push connectors are awesome , never seen them before . I would of used those crimping connectors . Great video , short to the point and no waffling . Thanks
Everyone will try the crimp method, but will be using those cheap £5 crimp tools designed for low votlage stuff. The more expensive "ratchet" type crimp tools like you are using are so much better!
or, here is an idea, just pull a new cable and stop cutting cables so short next time. I see you use butt connectors "cause you cut the cable too short", you're out. This is basic stuff, stop clowning around.
On the very day I was looking to how to extend wiring i was lucky enough to find your channel and was very impressed by your presentation. But my problem is, short wiring from the loft into a ceiling rose, that has to be changed because water got into after having a leaking roof! I guess with the amount of wiring involved, I won't use this method but would be using a junction box instead, installed & left in the loft space. Then bring a single cable down to fit into the new rose? Any thought's on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
@@stevesawyer7330 Thank you, I will check them out. Still wondering if it's OK to just drop a single cable down to the ceiling rose or best to extend all the cables?
The movement and the multitude of varying resonant vibrations experienced by a vehicle and its components don't lend well to push type fittings,which rely solely on a sprung type clamp to grip the conductor and are therefore vulnerable to these vibrations,jolts,movement etc.. Remember that many 12 and 24 volt systems operate at higher amps than their mains voltage equivalents any resistance will result in a lot of heat quickly,and they don't grip multi-strand cable properly and even with single core cable which its self sn't ideal in a vehicle, the join will still experience the same movement,you will be forever chasing faults or worse still fighting a fire. Vehicles need proper solid mechanical connections, crimps or bolted terminals (no soldering) and decent cable support.
The amount of times I’ve have larger boxes to light switches and socket boxes using Wago connectors. Have just bought the last packet of 10 from Screwfix for my next task. Thank You
They should make the backs of sockets a standard . Hate replacing sockets to find the cable are on opposite sides and there’s not enough length left on the cable
I had that recently , wire a new socket on?- ---- 15 minutes leisurely. Two half days trying to do it, wires too short, get the wire in, tilt to do the screw , wire pops out, factor in a fixed cabinet above your head ,you bang your head on , a LOT!! Gave up. Called a Sparky, ------- frustrated and humiliated..........
I'm nervous about crimping a wire that might get pushed and shoved near the crimp, e.g. in order to connect to a socket or switch (especially when pushing the switch or socket back into the box) as I fear that the pushing and shoving may stress the crimp and damage the integrity of the connection. I'm not worried about a crimp on a long run or where the cable is secured on either side of the crimp. Am I over cautious?
It’s not a problem for static wiring by which I mean, as in the video, for fixed electrics in a house etc as it is only pushed once back into the wall and probably never touched or pulled about again. But crimps or in-line splicers are not suitable for portable situations like extending a flex on a lamp or an extension lead etc as the wires will flex and bend too much locally at the crimps and then the copper will work harden and break exposing live ends. In those situations the safest recourse really is to replace the whole lead or flex with the longer length you require. FYI, crimps are more likely to pull out if yanked than the in-line splicers which have a kind of one way barbed system. Hope that answers your question. Regards Guy
I use either 2.5 mm Sq bare ferrules with a good crimping and recently Wago commector got our bureau of standards approval. I find the bare ferrules work better than those blue crimps. I had to do this today.
An alternative way (to your last method) may be the WAGO connectors - also available in 2-pin variant. Also tiny and also give a great (reliable) connection.
Thubs up for the wagos. Last install was inside a few split boxes in a 70 year old house in eastern Europe, wired up up with some ancient cables. Nice, neat and reliable setup.
I've had several of those splice connectors fail on me because of bad manufacture in the molding. Now i prefer in-line Wago type connectors because of their positive lever action
@@rogerblack7883 These are defined as "maintenance free connectors" in the UK (unlike screw connectors) and are permitted to be located where they cannot be inspected. However the single insulated wires should not be outside/behind the box as the protection is not sufficient.
In-line splicers are used across Europe, where the inspectors are just are robust as anything in the USA. Your country is just a little slow, as it takes you a long time to adopt new ideas and technology - think about it, there's only 3 countries left in the world using feet and inches, USA, Liberia and Miramar,] while the other 172 countries in the world are all using metric.
@@ruzziasht349 Remember, there are only two kinds of countries in the world, the ones that use the metric system, and the ones that have been to the moon..........
I vowed not to use Wago. Until I used some!!! Changed my life
👍
I've never used Wago yet. I have a large supply of wire nuts I need to use up.
Lots of this sort on RUclips, the difference is the clarity of the explanations, thank you.
Everyone who makes instructional videos should copy the The DIY Guy. Simple, concise and perfect, unlike some who waffle on and on ad nauseam before actually getting to the point. Thank you, DIY Guy.
Appreciate this 😊
do NOT put butt connectors just because your cable is too short. You pull a new cable.
Two additions, that may increase savety, when working on electric installations.
1) Always start with the earth wire. If you do that, earth will always be connected first and provide that scant more of sefety, if something goes wrong.
2) Always make the earth wire a bit longer than the other two. So if something gets pulled out, or pulled apart, it loses connection last.
Actually you’d rather the Neutral is pulled out last, especially considering how many devices and appliances we have today with no ground pin
Savety/sefety first. Couldn't acree more.
@@srpacific With AC, neutral is just another live.
This is exactly what I do when working on anything that requires mains voltage it's also good to remember when your soldering onto tabs for a battery or the battery onto a circuit board that you do negative first positive second and always cover the end of the positive when it's not soldered to anything no-one will thank you for a direct short on a lithium battery
@@hippopotamus86 it is not.
I have to add this after reading one of the comments below.
I played a practical joke on an electrician once. I’m a carpenter and was fitting a fancy electric cupboard in a posh flat in London. The electrician had left about six feet extra on all the cables coming into the cupboard of which there were about 50 or more because it was for a complex system of lighting, audio, video, power sockets, etc with points for everything in every room, you name it this place had it and all the cables were carefully labelled.
I had now reached the stage where I had to fit doors on this cupboard but try as I might I could coil up this mass of wires and stuff them into the cupboard far enough to be able to fit the doors. So there was nothing for it but to figure out how much I needed to reduce the bundle while still leaving reasonable lengths on the wires and cut them back. I figured about 3 feet would do it. So I sat down and painstakingly relabelled each wire four feet further up carefully copying precisely all his letters and hieroglyphs, then I cut them all off at three feet but I kept the bundle of ends with the original labels.
Next day I was first on the job as usual and waited for the electrician to turn up then I approached him as he entered saying “ Oh Steve, sorry mate I had to fit doors on that electric cupboard but couldn’t get the wires in so I had to cut them back a bit, but don’t worry I saved all the ends with your labels on”!
Well his face was a picture, he dropped his bag and just stood in the hallway open mouthed, looking from me to the wires then to the now fitted and closed doors on the cupboard then back to the wires and his labels then me again and finally managed to splutter out “ you twat!” ( actually he used a worse word than that but I can’t write it here) I managed to keep a straight face and said, “ there’s no need for that it took me ages to cut through this lot” then spitting and snarling he rushed over to the cupboard and tanked the doors open and looked inside… and then after a pause collapsed on the floor in a quivering heap letting out a noise that was somewhere between agonising pain and ecstasy jibbering the words “Thank Christ you cruel bastard I nearly had a heart attack!” It was priceless! Best joke I ever played on a tradesman!
😝
Those connectors are a smart bit of technology. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
I'm an electrical engineer, and I'm still glad I took 2 residential wiring courses at the local VoTech. I've run a lot of circuits in my house and it was money well spent. Excellent Video.
👍
or you're a shill for VoTech given the random unusual comment to place below such a video unless you had vested interests to do so.
@genome616 lol VoTech is just short for vocational technical school of any kind 😂. don't think he has a vested interest in any and all of them
@@genome616 🙄😂
@genome616 There's always one know-nothing conspiracy theorist for us to laugh at. 😂
Wow I am amazed how simple it is in your country. Especially the part where the entire switch board is connected once and not individually to all switches and sockets
I no longer do any DIY stuff because I'm old and not good at it. I just enjoy watching this guy and trying to figure out what he's saying. 😊
Figure out what he's saying? He's speaking English Ken, what country are you from? By the way, your written English is very good for a foreigner.
Cool! I love watching all kinds of stuff too.
Click the subtitle button!
If he is speaking too quickly, you can run the video at a lower speed. Click the 'gearwheel' button.
@@ruzziasht349hahaha
He likes watching diy videos but doesn’t actually “diy cause he’s old” lol
Thank you DIY Guy. Had this problem last week for a relative and was unsure the best way to tackle this. I also used your Amazon links and saved a load of money. Thumbs up from me.
Guys if extending a socket with only one cable supplying it ALWAYS DOUBLE OVER THE END GOING IN TO THE BACK OF THE SOCKET. It's reduces the chance of the copper breaking off when tightening. The rest of the video is Spot on 👌👊👊
Brilliant video. A previous owner has placed 2 double sockets on top of the skirting board and they look daft! I’ve been searching for a video that shows how to extend the cables so that I can move the sockets up the wall. Thank you so much! 👍👍
Mate this is brilliant! I've just found out about your video. It solves a multitude of troubles for me! 10 out of 10 for this guy!!!!
I am a 68 year old time served electrician, the first thing I would do is put pressure on the cable to release it from tower clips to gain enough slack if possible.
Got a box of these wago things …..
I put 3 lights and a switch in basement’few
Days ago ..
They worked really well ….. nice and clean …
What a great wire cutter
I've always been a little afraid of electrics , largely because I found the tec jargon confusing so i shyed away and never learnt, but you make your video so clear and understandable I feel confident too have a go . Don't worry though, a friend of mine is an electrician so he can check 😂
You've never done electric because you're afraid of the jargon? Wow. And I thought sure when I started reading your comment that you were going to say that you are afraid of getting electrocuted. So you're more concerned about the jargon then you are the electricity. Gotcha. 😊
That’s what I prefer, short explanations all necessary info included without ballast.
You could always use Wago single splice connectors. They're awesome. Good video mate!
Yeah, I much much prefer the wago myself. I've always hated crimps with an absolute pasion, they're only 1 better than those woeful wire nuts.
@@IAmThe_RAActually Wago 221-2411 will work better for this application.
When showing the use of either crimp- or in-line pushfit connectors, it would be helpful also to show their removal, in the case that there is faulty connection, and you need to remove the connector without shortening the already short conductors. I know how, but it is not necessarily intuitive that the push fit connectors can be twisted off, and the crimped connectors may be loosened with pliers to open up the crimped section.
Tips like these are SO useful for us DIYers. Especially those getting on a bit who may have picked up some 'tricks' over the years but now find that such 'tricks' are so out of date. Thanks for posting!
Or you know... use wago's like a normal person :)
Please, "tricks" are for kids, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time I'd imagine you've started some fires using that method.
he's a bit sick isnt he
covid 19
You’re the best lifesaver man. I don’t even comment on videos normally
My vote for the second method, but I've done the first method many many times, especially working on car electrical systems. Great vid!
Please, a solution looking for a problem, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
Great video. I've actually been using the orange push fits for years, so simple to use
I use WAGO connectors. You can easily remove them if you need to , but they do lock on tight with the lever. They sell multiple different types. Really good...WAGO is UL approved and legal.
Crikey, things have moved on a lot, always used crimps, now will defo get those new fangled connectors. My crimp tools are far inferior to your posh ones anyway, so the job takes far longer. Very well and clearly explained, no gimmicks, just good professionalism. Well done. and thanks. Now subscribed.
The second type of fitting reminds me of the "backstab" connections they still put on outlets in N. America. They work the same way, but are known for overheating. Maybe the ones in this video (which I've seen at Home Depot) are better made, maybe with higher quality contacts and/or anti-oxidation paste. The insulated crimps are probably fine with a proper (and expensive) crimping tool, but I've had terrible luck trying to crimp them with vise grips, though, for some reason, vise grips work fine with un-insulated copper crimps & heat shrink tubing (which may or may not be legal). They even have a special type of crimp, and crimper, over here that's supposed to cold-weld copper pigtails to the aluminum wiring they used for a while in the 1960s; it's supposed to be one of the only reliable ways to connect aluminum to normal switches and outlets.
This guy reminds me of photonic induction, minus the impulsiveness, self-destruction, and little regard for safety. So put another way, thanks for the coherent and simple tutorial!
Thank God. Finally a no bullshit clear explanation. Thanks.
One of the real great tunes in the Piobaireachd repertoire, and played by one of the great players of the last thirty years!
That strip tool is fantastic
Brilliant buying the crimping tool is the best DIY purchase I’ve ever made thanks for your clear and precise instructions
Glad to help
Thanks man! That looks so much easier than the wire caps I've used in the past which don't work so well with short wires anyway.
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time No. Solder can fail on fault condition as the wires can heat up and melt the solder. It is bad practice to resort only to solder for joining wires for high load (ie house mains) as can fail due to heat cycling.
It is OK to solder multi-strand wire - then clamp - to protect the strands being cut by the clamp, but we still physically clamp the wires and they will not release in fault condition.
@@tomooo2637 Exactly! I've had too many solder joints fail.
@deependz3231 Never cut corners to save money. That's a recipe for disaster.
If you've watched Towering Inferno you'll know what I mean.
Thanks
Thanks for the video. This reminds me when my Dad was project managing the build of our new house many years ago - He was always tidying up every evening when trades would leave the site - He cut the tails of the cables unaware the electrician had them labelled. When the electrician did turn up hung over from drink he walked straight of the job and never came back - I thought it was hilarious but my Dad was furious.
I bet he was!😂
More like micro managing with just enough knowledge to be dangerous.😅🤣😂
You’ll love my story above!
Feeding the RUclips algorithm. Informative video. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I know that code differs between countries but where I'm from conduit is required when running cables in walls. That has the side effect that it is a bit easier to replace too short wiring or adding. So even if it is not required, if it is allowed I highly recommend adding proper conduit when adding electrical to new walls.
Would your customers enjoy paying for this unnecessary extra expense?
@@stargazer7644 as I wrote, they do not have a choice as it is required by code here.
Why do you highly recommend it?
All these guys killed it, I ain't heard that version of cam in a minute, it amazes me though how much Mas$ and fan sound identical, I could hear fab rapping that entire verde
I would have doubled over the socket side of the wires to get a better connection in a large opening. It gives a much better and secure connection the screw.
if you want a good and secure connection then PULL A NEW CABLE AND STOP CLOWNING AROUND. Real electricains NEVER come across the issue of "oh I pulled a short cable woopsie" because we're not incompetent idiots. This is basic. You're not an electrician, you got no business messing with wires, HANDS OFF. If I see you do this, I know you got no clue as to what you're doing. And don't think that sockets are as gigantic as the one in the video, even the english ones, but you didn't knew that because you're not an electrician. You won't have space to clown around making a spaghetti inside with loops "for a much better and secure connection". You don't even realize your oxymoron, you want a secure connection yet you use a butt connector? Oh wait, you didn't even knew what they were called.
Extremely useful. SpliceLine - just what I could have done with in the past, and may need oin the furture. Thank you.
Blimey I've been crimping for years (and messed up a few due to not ensuring the wire was inserted fully before squeezing the handles on the crimp tool). This in-line splice idea is brilliant.
so... you're been crimping wrong... and somehow you didn't learn how to crimp right after YEARS of failing... and you're gonna continue doing it. You think this is a game? You're gonna get someone killed. And this comment has 24 likes. Wow.
Loving the pliers. Been using wagons for everything including my cars
Wago now make in-line versions of the 221. As an alternative.
Amazing ! Very much appreciated 👍
You cannot find them in the USA for a reasonable price.
That's a useful tip. 👍
Where can I find Wago in-line version.
But any good electrical factor will stock them
Thanks!
2.5mm twin and earth only has a 1.5mm earth so you should use a red crimp on the cpc conductor
Your box there is way better than any box I’ve ever seen in the US. I love that the plate mounting holes are tapped with a deeper thread. Our receptacles have very cheap mounting threads.
Absolutely love this guy’s videos, he explains everything in easy simple terms 👌many thanks again
With disgusting tattoo on the arms, why is this normal? Oh, God.
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
Just remember the sleeved bare cable is the earth and not the neutral as spoken. A slip of the tongue but a serious one.
@@seanleith5312 100% agree with you
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time You're average DIYer who's competent to do a job like this isn't going to mess around with soldering. This method is perfect.
Wago 221..nuff said..
I'm thinking you may struggle to fit one in the back of a UK patress box especially with the multiple wires required on a UK ring circuit.
Short and sweet, clear and concise instructions, not like most videos that just go on and on. Ta
Love that tool, never seen that before. I’m still using old school wire strippers. Gonna look them up so I can get one.
please don't. You're not an electrician. Go back to school and don't touch cables.
Man, RUclips saved my ass once again! Thank you so much sir 😍
Anytime
A common problem which I sorted out in the past the old joins or insulating tape 😱
This is brilliant and much safer 👍
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time electricians generally don't solder cables together in a situation like this.the only time we ever really solder is when connecting to led tape,or similar. Sometimes we solder the ends of flex to make it easier to connect to a terminal too,but we never solder cables together in a situation like this. Through crimps are the general go to,and the inline push connectors he mentioned in the video are becoming more popular. You're right about using heat shrink,but the soldering isn't common for electricians. More so in the electronics world,and BMS type work
I am an electrician, I swear, I learnt a lot from you
Hi there
As a retired Electro-Mechanical Engineer (75) I would have thought that terminating the three wires in the socket while sitting at a table/sat on the floor/ etc and then when that's done taking your socket down to the position where it is going and push the three wires using a splice (or SIX if working on a ring) into the socket, saves all that messing about.
It's all about time which contributes to your bottom line. BUT always remember safety first.
As of 15th January 2024, I have just watched this again, but this has been nagging me.
Please correct me if I am wrong but I am almost positive that you need an IEE certification ( 16th / 17th Edition etc. ) to install a NEW socket, this does not apply when changing like for like, I have been out of the industry now for several years, so things might have changed, but this is a safety aspect so I can't imagine this would not change.
You are correct. However you have to be realistic as well. Please try this......Ring your local electricians and see how many are interested in coming out to put a new socket in (just the one) and tell us how many out of the 10 your rang were: 1. Willing to come out and do it. 2. Came and gave you a ridiculous price. 3. Said 'yes' they would come out and do it and actually showed up ! Electricians are in short supply (as are other trades) and you are really going to struggle to find your 'ideal' qualified engineer who charges a reasonable sum. Finally, what would you consider a reasonable charge for putting a new socket in.
if you got the bs7671 and 1000x ESPECIALLY if you are a so-called "electro-mechanical engineer (75)' then you should never start with "please correct me if I am wrong" especially not with something as simple as a freaking WALL SOCKET or WIRES EXTENDED WITH BUTT CONNECTORS IF THEY'RE TOO SHORT. You have to be senile, incompetent, or lying. Electricians have to be confident, we can put our hands on wires with NO FEAR because we know what we're doing, we know how to properly test wires, we know when it's 100% safe to touch and when it can be energized. But then you're talking about "new sockets"? What? New or old, it's irrelevant. stop clowning around.
You know that when the inspections and testing comes around, we're gonna detect your little mistake on the impedence test, right? Especially when you got one of those old houses with DIY electrics full of butt connectors and we can both bet that you're gonna crimp it poorly with the wrong size.
Since you love youtube vids, go on artisan electrics and count how many times you see them using butt connectors "cause the cables are too short". And notice how many times they just pull a whole new cable. Or how many times they use butt connectors AT ALL.
That's the difference between you and them, they're electricians, you're not.
Next you're gonna suggest using isolation tape too.
Thanks!
Your welcome
I am amazed by the wire stripping tool you are using. Looks great!
Yes... I want one of them...
They've been around for ages, I don't particularly like them as they can "nick" the cores weakening them.
Normally I'd use my teeth but with the cable so short I could not get my face close enough.
@@wayland7150 you could use your teeth, but if you do it too much, one day you'll lose a tooth or chip it. it's a matter of time. not recommended to use your teeth to strip wire unless it's an absolute emergency
They're excellent. The one he has is Stanley but there are Chinese knock offs as well now.
Some much quicker than old strippers and weirdly satisfying as well!
wow, look at those tattoos 👍
so fresh and original looking, like nothing anymore has seen before
wow
Brilliant. Great for putting sockets up to height they’re supposed to be in my older house. Wondered how to safely extend wires to do this.
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time I disagree if your not a competent solderer dry joints are the last thing you want . Pushfits for me every time
@@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time wagos are better than soldering tbh
As I understand it (I’m not an electrician) the height regs don’t apply for existing older buildings - only for new build?
These new connectors on the market now certainly make like easier
Great video, well explained ( no waffle!) crystal clear techniques. Thanks for posting,
Those push connectors are awesome , never seen them before . I would of used those crimping connectors . Great video , short to the point and no waffling . Thanks
Explained clearly for the complete novice. Great video.
Sure why not
Always interesting and very clear instructions, just love seeing the new ideas and how easy they are to use. Thanks
Everyone will try the crimp method, but will be using those cheap £5 crimp tools designed for low votlage stuff. The more expensive "ratchet" type crimp tools like you are using are so much better!
Wooow that's that's what I'm talking about .. you're the best !
JUST USE WAGO!
We ain’t always got it
or, here is an idea, just pull a new cable and stop cutting cables so short next time. I see you use butt connectors "cause you cut the cable too short", you're out. This is basic stuff, stop clowning around.
Push fit wago are the absolute best
Brilliant. Great video, never knew those existed, will save a lot of time and effort! Thank you.
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
Thanks for the video mate, just needing to move my ceiling light by a foot and this is really helpful.
On the very day I was looking to how to extend wiring i was lucky enough to find your channel and was very impressed by your presentation. But my problem is, short wiring from
the loft into a ceiling rose, that has to be changed because water got into after having a leaking roof! I guess with the amount of wiring involved, I won't use this method but would
be using a junction box instead, installed & left in the loft space. Then bring a single cable down to fit into the new rose? Any thought's on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Have a look for Wago junction box using Wago connectors simple way of joining wire and much better connections than the old round junction boxes
Hager J501 Downlighter Junction Box
@@stevesawyer7330 Thank you, I will check them out. Still wondering if it's OK to just drop a single cable down to the ceiling rose or best to extend all the cables?
I love my in-line Wagos just for this purpose.
Great video, thankyou. Could you also use wago connectors if you had enough room in back box. Look forward to your other videos.
Yep you could use wagos also
Wago 221 connectors are perfect for this, and they now do straight connectors.
Great video, but i am a WAGO convert.
Love their whole range of connectors, boxes etc.
Great video. Wish I had known about these in line splicers before I wired loads of new lights into our motorhome 🤦🏻
You have solid cabling in your motorhome ?
The movement and the multitude of varying resonant vibrations experienced by a vehicle and its components don't lend well to push type fittings,which rely solely on a sprung type clamp to grip the conductor and are therefore vulnerable to these vibrations,jolts,movement etc.. Remember that many 12 and 24 volt systems operate at higher amps than their mains voltage equivalents any resistance will result in a lot of heat quickly,and they don't grip multi-strand cable properly and even with single core cable which its self sn't ideal in a vehicle, the join will still experience the same movement,you will be forever chasing faults or worse still fighting a fire. Vehicles need proper solid mechanical connections, crimps or bolted terminals (no soldering) and decent cable support.
Not a great idea, use the proper crimps, these pushfits are never meant for mobility.
Wago 222 came out like 15 years ago 😅
The amount of times I’ve have larger boxes to light switches and socket boxes using Wago connectors. Have just bought the last packet of 10 from Screwfix for my next task. Thank You
Would using wago connectors work too?
Yes, works also perfectly
@@Dutch-Maker Thanks. Didn't get any notification for this, which is weird.
Mate, this video saved my bacon today! The inline splice connectors are genius! 😀👍
👍😁
They should make the backs of sockets a standard . Hate replacing sockets to find the cable are on opposite sides and there’s not enough length left on the cable
I had that recently , wire a new socket on?- ---- 15 minutes leisurely.
Two half days trying to do it, wires too short, get the wire in, tilt to do the screw , wire pops out, factor in a fixed cabinet above your head ,you bang your head on , a LOT!!
Gave up. Called a Sparky, ------- frustrated and humiliated..........
Wires are too short, they need to be long enough that they can always wrap around either side of the socket
Absolutely fantastic. Really big thanks. Pramendra from Ireland.
I'm nervous about crimping a wire that might get pushed and shoved near the crimp, e.g. in order to connect to a socket or switch (especially when pushing the switch or socket back into the box) as I fear that the pushing and shoving may stress the crimp and damage the integrity of the connection.
I'm not worried about a crimp on a long run or where the cable is secured on either side of the crimp.
Am I over cautious?
It’s not a problem for static wiring by which I mean, as in the video, for fixed electrics in a house etc as it is only pushed once back into the wall and probably never touched or pulled about again.
But crimps or in-line splicers are not suitable for portable situations like extending a flex on a lamp or an extension lead etc as the wires will flex and bend too much locally at the crimps and then the copper will work harden and break exposing live ends.
In those situations the safest recourse really is to replace the whole lead or flex with the longer length you require. FYI, crimps are more likely to pull out if yanked than the in-line splicers which have a kind of one way barbed system.
Hope that answers your question.
Regards
Guy
Thanks buddy ,I been having trouble over this issue, there's no need to buy a crimping tool for this job.
use a WAGO, done :D 30 seconds video instead of the 7 minutes one xD
DIY Guy, you are truly a STAR.
Excellent ! Informative, well filmed with good sound.
Great vid. Love those in line guys. Looks a lot better than a crimper considering how little space you have in those wall boxes.
Repeat after me!
WAGO!!!
I use either 2.5 mm Sq bare ferrules with a good crimping and recently Wago commector got our bureau of standards approval. I find the bare ferrules work better than those blue crimps. I had to do this today.
An alternative way (to your last method) may be the WAGO connectors - also available in 2-pin variant. Also tiny and also give a great (reliable) connection.
Thubs up for the wagos. Last install was inside a few split boxes in a 70 year old house in eastern Europe, wired up up with some ancient cables. Nice, neat and reliable setup.
The Wago connectors are made after EU-guidelines you can´t use these in the UK anymore.
@@Pum1ce ...
Yes you can.
@@Pum1ce UK has adopted EU guidelines. Nothing has changed.
I did expect a wago show off.
Great bit of info there. Everyday is a school day, thanks.
I've had several of those splice connectors fail on me because of bad manufacture in the molding. Now i prefer in-line Wago type connectors because of their positive lever action
I always would use a crimp if space permitted. Its a fool proof solid connection.
Great job and the good way to explain things appreciate the way you did it 🇩🇰🙏👍thanks once again for the efforts and for sharing this with us
You should use wago connectors instead! Faster and easier!
Not really any faster and they're larger and considerably more expensive.
Eh? They're effectively the same thing.
Great little tip about the inline connectors.
If you need more access to the cable, remove the dry lining box (not always possible in every instance though.)
But fo NOT make a connection behind the box, leave it where it can at least be inspected.
@@rogerblack7883 not just to be inspected it is a requirement that the single insulated cores are not inside the wall
@@rogerblack7883 These are defined as "maintenance free connectors" in the UK (unlike screw connectors) and are permitted to be located where they cannot be inspected. However the single insulated wires should not be outside/behind the box as the protection is not sufficient.
I like your stripping and crimping tools. Fast and neat job.
Yep 👍
Somewhere in the United States, an electrical inspectors head just exploded lol. Amazing how the code differs from one part of the world to another.
What's the difference? Would this be considered unsafe?
In-line splicers are used across Europe, where the inspectors are just are robust as anything in the USA. Your country is just a little slow, as it takes you a long time to adopt new ideas and technology - think about it, there's only 3 countries left in the world using feet and inches, USA, Liberia and Miramar,] while the other 172 countries in the world are all using metric.
@@ruzziasht349 Remember, there are only two kinds of countries in the world, the ones that use the metric system, and the ones that have been to the moon..........
@@ruzziasht349 nothing better to expect from the person with such username. Insult first check for facts later.
@@AtlasofInfo
I always bend the ends over when fitting sockets with only one cable which will give a better connection and prevent the cable snapping.
Take the back box out and make a joint inside the wall.
I would absolutely grab a good handful of these and keep em handy
Wagos ALL long. Those inline crimps aren't great.
Never had a problem with them maybe your crimper needs updating.
I truly agree mate
We used these crimp connectors on F-16s in the USAF. I never had a problem with them.
Wages are by far the easiest for the non-professional.
😊❤