Excellent video, it helped me a lot! If changing the spark plug tube seals (valve cover), like me, you may be inclined to knock them out with a hammer and large flat bladed screwdriver from the top side. Don't do this, the bottom part will just break off. Instead take your screwdriver from the underside and insert it under the entire seal and pry it out. It will pop right out, no problems. Use the old seal to set on top of the new seal, tap it with your hammer, and the new seal will go in easily. In removing the valve shims, if the shim won't come out using the spacer tool, insert a larger flat bladed screwdriver to create more clearance and the shim will come out. I just completed this service on my 2000 Tacoma prerunner 2.7 with 140k. All valves were in spec, however I had two exhaust valves that were measuring .010in that I brought back to the optimal .012. Timing chain seemed fine. I have used Toyota filters and Mobile 1, 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer. Great Video, thanks for sharing your experience!
+thomas7770 Great job on your Prerunner 2.7! Your engine must have been very well cared for if you only had to adjust two exhaust valves at 140K. I use Mobil 1 in my vehicles also. Its a good-value synthetic oil. I still change at 3000 to 4000 miles though. Thanks for your comments.
If you'd like to save some money, Kawasaki offers a similar tool that is much less expensive (Motion Pro Valve Shim Tool Kawasaki 08-0019). You can find it on EBay or Amazon for less than $10 (1/4 the price of the Honda part). You can also buy the wedge tool without the pliers (Schley 88251 Replacement Spacer Wedge - Toyota & Lexus).
I was studying up on replacing some of my valve shims when I came across this video. I bought Schley pliers shown in your video a long time ago and was going to use them. The wedge tool looks ten times easier to use. As one commenter mentioned the Kawasaki 08-0019 is just about the same tool and I will be ordering one on Amazon for $8.75. Another tool listed on Amazon that may work with is the Motion Pro Honda Valve Shim Tool 08-0019 or the 08-0017.
Great video!! I'm in the middle of checking my 2.7 in a 2003 Prerunner, and exhaust is tight. Looked for that Schley tool, and most sites say 'discontinued'. Sounds like I need to look at the Honda holddown tool, but dont' see a p/n anywhere. Is this the same as that Kawasaki tool mentioned in older posts? Thx.
Great video man! This shows exactly what needs to be done so much better than other videos. By the way... your voice kinda sounds like Dane Cook... LOL. Any ideas where one might be able to get that Honda bucket depresser tool? I looked all over the internet and couldn't find it by that part number. I'm sure Honda probably charges an obscene amount for it.
With that Honda bucket compressor, is there any concern with scratching the surface of the cam lobe by wedging that tool in there like you show in the video? The Toyota FSM shows the use of the tool like Schley makes and I'm wondering if it's to avoid marring up the surface of the lobes.
This tool has a precisely machined face that is just like the face on the cam that presses down on the bucket. It does not put any marks on the cam or on the shim. Also the motor oil film helps the tool to ride on the film of oil. Finally, the bottom of the cam (called the heel) never touches anything as it spins around. This is the "clearance" part of the interface with the buckets. So, even though this tool does not mark anything up, it wouldn't be of much importance if it did. That's a great question that I also asked many years ago!
Good Job, Thanks a lot!! Will do this yo my Infiniti FX 45, will replace valve seals, and timing chain, might pull heads off and take pistons out, and replace pistonrings too??, anyway, has to pull out camshafts anyway, and need to do valve adjusment, I bet Infiniti-Nissan is pretty much like Toyota, right?? So, after I do final adjustment, just do the calculations, and go to dealer, and buy those needed shims?? How much they cost, about?? Thanks a lot, youtheman =)Where can I buy/order that bucket pressing tool??
nice job you don btw in saudi arabia all mechanics send the cylinder head to machine shop to grind a little pit of the valve end they do not swap or change any shim :(
Thanks for your response. One more question - once i finish checking all 12 shims in one side of my engine, and say i find 2 out of range, would it be alright for me to just change those two? Or is it necessary for me to change all of them even if the other 10 are within the required range?
Loved the video. I gave up on this job with the snap-on tool and took it to a pro. Next time I will try it with the Honda tool. I have a question about the bucket 'hold down' tool. It has 2 ends. Which end did you use? and what is keeping it in place?
Glad you liked the video! I think I was using the wider end of the hold-down tool. When you pull out the bucket depressor (the wedge tool), the hold-down tool is held tightly between the edge of the bucket and the underside of the cam (by valve spring pressure). There is quite a bit of pressure so it's important to place the hold-down tool very accurately on the edge of the bucket. Since the shims stick up above the edge of the bucket, I bring the hold-down tool right up to the edge of the shim.
The "holder" tool has two ends with different widths. I use the widest end that will fit once the bucket is depressed. The bottom of this tool presses against the outer edge of the bucket, and the top of the holder tool presses against the bottom of the rough cast part of the cam shaft that is adjacent to the lobe.
I "REALLY" don't like using the Snap-On tool for this (even though I love their tools and most of my took kit comes from them). This is kind of a poorly thought out design. This particular Snap-On tool was designed and is made by "Kent-Moore Tools, a Brand of SPX Service Solutions". K-M/SPX makes some great special tools, but this is not one of them.
Hi,i have a question,after i check all my valve lashes,the valve shims that are below or above specs those are the one i need to change the shims?also can you provide me with the data to determine which shim to use,thank you
Replace the shim if the measured valve clearance is not within your desired range. Remove the shim, and measure it's thickness using a micrometer. Add or subtract from that value to calculate the replacement shim size. For example, if you measure a clearance of .007" and you want it to be .010" you would replace the shim with one that is .003" thinner.
No, the shims don't have a part number on them. The shims that are original to the engine will often have a printed 2-digit code like 28 or 30. If they were purchased from a Toyota dealer, they will usually have a thickness listed in mm as a 4 digit number. You should just measure the shims using a micrometer. By the way, the micrometer is a much better tool for this than a dial caliper because you can read a micrometer to 0.0001". You get a much more accurate measurement to help you decide on which shim to select.
That was an awesome video! Looks so easy with the right tools. I just might tackle it myself. My Toyota has 210000 miles on it and am sure it needs done. Do you know how long one can let it go and the consequences of not doing it?
There is no way to tell just based on miles on the vehicle. The best thing to do is take the valve cover off and measure all the clearances. Then you'll know for sure. Put on a new valve cover gasket, and replace all of the washers under the valve cover bolts. This truck had about 185K on it and most of the intakes were OK, but all of the exhaust valves were too tight. The engine simply won't run properly with valves out of adjustment, you can really tell the difference, less engine shake, smoother sound, better mileage, etc. The danger is if they tighten up to the point where clearance approaches zero, the valves will not be able to close fully, and they will burn and you will have to replace them. The valves cool when they are fully closed against the valve seats. Zero clearance can also cause cams to become scored because there is no space between the cam and shim to pick up oil for lubrication.
Thanks very much for the informative video. I'm preparing to adjust valves on my Toyota Tacoma this spring, and like you, I've also done many shim-over-bucket and shim-under-bucket valve adjustments, but they've all been on motorcycles. The good news is that I own and service my own Honda CB-X, so I already have the bucket depressor and holding tools shown in the video, but seeing the configuration under the valve cover before opening it up will save me a lot of time bc now I know what I'm faced with. One other question, do you happen to know the diameter of the Toyota shims? I ask because I already have an assortment of 25mm dia shims for the CB-X so I may be able to use some of them in the Taco if they're the same dia in the thicknesses that I'll need. Tks again!
Doing this to my 2000 4 cylinder Tacoma. Having trouble removing the shims from cylinder 4. Any recommendations or tricks? Also what magnet are you using?
The magnet I'm using is made by Snap-On. You can probably find something very similar on their web site. Sorry, I have not checked this video in a while. Did you manage to get your valve adjustment completed? Another trick I've used in the past if a shim is stuck in the bucket is to use an air blower nozzle with a rubber tip (I use a Snap-On nozzle for this). This is connected to the air line from your compressor. You simply put the tip of the nozzle into the groove that you see me using to pick out the shims, and then give it a blast of air. This will almost always pop the shim out very quickly.
Hey great video, Quick question. I have a 2002 Lexus ES300 3.0 V6 which is a Camry. I think I have a one cylinder in the front that is giving me that clicking noise. If I change only the shim that is out of range you think that's ok, Or I have change the whole 12 shims on that side or the whole engine? The reason I'm asking is because here in Georgia the Lexus dealership is charging me $30 for each shim plus taxes which is alot of money for a college student like me.( Not including labor and doing it myself) Is there a way you could also guide me for where I can find the formula for the new shim I might have to replace in my car
I would say that if you have the valve cover off, it would be a mistake not to measure all of the valve clearances and replace any that are out of spec. You should able to get them much cheaper than that if you shop around, I think the Toyota shims are around $7.50 each. The formula is this: Measure the valve clearance with a feeler gauge. Determine what change you need to make in the clearance. For example if you measure .007" and you want it to be .010" your shim will be .003" thinner than what is in there. Remove shim, measure thickness with a micrometer, subtract .003" from this measurement. That will give you the thickness of the replacement shim. Good luck!
z399y Do you know where I can find the the specific clearance range for my car. Which has the same engine as a Camry. Last question, how do I get to move the cam to be at top? Ive done brakes,tunes ups and oil changes but never mess with the engine.
camilo11315 You need to look in the service manual to find the valve clearances for the intake and the exhaust valves. On some cars these specs are on the vehicle sticker on the underside of the hood. The crankshaft will have a pulley mounted with a large bolt. Your use a wrench or socket on this bolt to turn the crankshaft, that will rotate the cam. Generally, you only want to turn this in the direction the engine rotates while running.
Sounds good thank you and I thought all engines rotate to the right. Thank you very much for your help. Sorry to bother you. but can a car has lifters and valve shims, because my friends has a Camry same year 4 cylinders and he say he put some liquid to fix the lifters sounds and it went away. apparently 4 cylinders camry's have a lifters and 6 cylinders camry's have shim valves?
+Sep Mirtazavi The cam lobe and shim never really contact, but rather float (in relationship to each other) on a film of oil between them. You can remove a shim that has been in an engine for a long time, measure it in the center and on the edge and not see any difference to .0001"
Yes, that's what it means. The valve adjustment is simply using what ever thickness shim is required to give you the correct clearance between the shim and the cam heel.
Great video! I need to do the shims on my 2RZ tacoma it has 195K and the valve cover has never been off. I also have an '09 CBR 600RR that is going to need adjustment #2 at 32K
Well, I will just have to put up with the lifter ticking. This is way beyond anything an owner should have to do and this will be my last Toyota. Cadillac introduced hydraulic valve silencers in 1930 and every auto I have ever owned had them. This is an unacceptable design flaw, I did not buy a motorcycle, it is supposed to be a truck.
URGENT One of my valves gave me a clearance gap (when measuring the shims with the feeler gauge) way out of range. The clearance range was between 0.006-0.010, but we measured it at 0.056. The bucket that holds this shim can be moved slightly up and down, so we belive the problem is the spring (none of the other buckets move this way). We dont want to change the spring because of a lack of expertise. We were thinking of getting the thickest shim that Lexus offers, just to make the gap smaller, but it would still be way out of range from what it should be. Would you recommend getting a thicker shim made to reduce the gap, or should we just get the thickest one from Lexus? Or just put another one around the normal size and hope is dirty and after a engine flush the spring will work normal. P.s. whoever owned this car before me did not change the oil enough so there is a lot of carbon deposits around that valve area. We are going to do an engine flush to try and clear out whatever has built up inside. I dont know if the spring is old and dont have that much strenght. Or just dirty Thank you for your time and help. I greatly appreciate it!
Did you have to stack two feeler gauges to measure the .056"? All of the buckets can be moved up and down when the cam is pointed away from them. You probably notice it more in this one because it has more than 5 times the clearance that it should. As hours are put on an engine, the valves nearly always get tighter not looser, so this is an indication of a problem. It could possibly be a bent valve, or one with very heavy carbon deposits. Either of these conditions will prevent a valve from closing completely. It is also possible that the heel of the valve has been shortened previously. Let me know what you find out.
z399y yes, I did have to stack them. We put the thickest shim that lexus offers in the one that was way off, closed things up, turned the engine on. We drove around for a bit and then the engine light and engine oil light started flashing and then stayed on. The ticking noise was also a little worse. We took the car and checked its code which was P0012 - camshaft bank 1 retarded. We figured this was due to the too thick shim, so we opened it up and put a thinner one in. We cleared out the OPC valve and filter as well, cause maybe it was clogged causing the light to turn on. We also changed the oil and the oil filter. We closed things up and the same thing happened again - produced the same code. Any thougts on what we ahould do? My car is a lexus es300 2002. Thanks!
Putting in a shim that is too thick would not cause a 'camshaft retarded' code. Based on what you are describing, I would start by verifying the cam timing. Look in your service manual. There should be a timing mark on the crankshaft pulley, and on each camshaft pulley. If this is off, it is possible that you could have a bent valve, and that would be the reason one valve is not closing all the way (making it impossible to set the clearance using standard shims). Did you get all of the other valves clearances in spec? Make sure you are measuring clearance for each valve with the valve pointed directly away from the bucket. Measure them one by one as your rotate the engine. Always rotate the engine the direction it turns when running. Some engines don't like to be turned backwards, and can skip a tooth on a timing belt. Also, always use the crankshaft pulley to rotate the engine, not the cam pulleys.
z399y Hello, I found what happened. What happen is that my engine had alot of carbon deposit and I clean some out and put brake cleaner a few times which put all the dirt down the engine. So Because it was so much dirt the oil could not travel as normal and mess the oil pressure and the bad oil pressure made to camshaft to react that way. My friend took the oil pump out and clean the filter and everything and now works great. I still have the ticking noise. When I put the thickest shim the sound was louder. (WHY?) I HAVE A CLEARANCE THAT NOT SHIM COULD MAKE UP. WHAT SHOULD I DO WHEN MY CLEARANCE IS WAY TO BIG? Some told me to change the shim bucket and that will help some? Could I put some of that rislone lifters liquid or take the camshaft off and change the shim bucket. PS the car still have the old shim.
I bought a 2000 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 new that year with this 2.7 liter 3RZ motor & automatic trans. I now have 330,000 miles on it. Timing chain is just fine. Same for the water pump. Thankfully, I befriended TWO guys who both are certified Toyota tech/mechanics. In addition to still working for a Toyota dealership, they partnered years ago to operate a nice shop as their own side business, that they still have. ( IMAGINE HOW LUCKY & BLESSED I AM.....AND THESE GUYS CHARGE ME PEANUTS COMPARED TO ANY OTHER SHOP, NO KIDDING. NOTHING ABOUT ANY TOYOTA ESCAPES THESE GUYS. ) Just this past week, I had them replace a leaky valvecover gasket including sparkplug seals, a new exhaust manifold ( old one was cracked ), REPLACED the rear brake adjusters (it's common for those things to malfunction & quit working, resulting in NO back brakes, even though the shoes are fine, and mine has the "factory tow package" which has the bigger rear brake drums ), replaced all of the bushings and 2 new bolts in the front stabilizer bar, replaced the lower radiator hose & new coolant ( I replaced the upper hose myself only weeks earlier ), replaced a broken door handle, and cleaned out the EGR valve. They did all of that.......PARTS & LABOR......for only $500. THAT'S CHEAP!!! They told me the engine is doing GREAT to have 330,000 miles on it, at 18 years old. Good ole tried & true Castrol GTX 10w30 oil, is all I've ever used in this engine, w/NO additives. I'm gonna have them replace my belts & service the transmission next. Ya just can't beat these engines, and they told me: "Yes, there ARE people who are getting 500,000 to 1 MILLION miles out of their original engine & drivetrain with NO rebuild".
See my previous response from over 2 yrs ago. My 3RZ-FE now has 361,000 miles......still running great, but I did just buy an entire timing chain/gears, balance shaft chain, tensioner & guide kit AND new water pump from LC Engineering. My buddy ( the long time Toyota tech ) is going to do the job for me next weekend. ( 11-14-20 ) Might as well replace the water pump because it has to come out anyway to replace the timing chain, gears, etc, etc. That's free labor. I just installed a stainless steel header to finally get rid of the crappy cast iron exhaust manifolds that ALWAYS crack after 6 to 18 months. WHAT A DIFFERENCE IN PERFORMANCE. I have gobs of torque at low rpm's now. Even the automatic transmission behaves much better, because it downshifts much easier for passing slower traffic. The transmission worked fine before, never any slippage.......but it really works better now. Before, ya had to nearly floor the accelerator pedal to kick it down a gear......now, just a mediocre stab of the throttle makes it happen. Even with 361,000 miles, my engine has better performance than it ever had with a cast iron manifold. Had I known this, I would've installed a header years ago.
@@howabouthetruth2157 I wrote this just after selling my 95 4x4 standard with the 22re, was thinking about a Tacoma. Totally regret selling it even though I got 9k for it
@@shckltnebay Oh man, I bet you do regret it. The 22r and 22re are great little motors. The 3RZ is just as good, but in a slightly different way. It actually replaced the 22re, but is found ONLY in the 4x4 and Pre-Runner among the Tacoma's. The 3RZ was offered from 1994 to 2004. I'm damn lucky my timing chain hasn't broken yet, but that'll be replaced next week. Already have all the parts/kit. My Toyota tech buddy says anything newer will NOT be as durable as the 3RZ or 22r/re motors due to simplicity of design. Everything newer has variable valve timing that has too many parts to wear out much sooner. He should know.......seeing as how he works on them all. Cheers.
@@shckltnebay ........and PS.......the timing chain & balance shaft chain should at least be inspected at 120 to 150,000 miles. If it stretches beyond the limits of the tensioner, it starts slapping the chain guide too hard causing both to break, dropping valves on pistons. Now ya need a total engine rebuild. But mine still had plenty of tension at 330k miles when he replaced the valve cover gasket. But we're done "tempting fate" at 361k.
Was all ready to dive into this project but checked the clearance on my kids 97 tacoma and all were within spec- after 290,000 miles.
Impressive! I'm just looking this up to check valves on my tacoma, but its at 190k lol
Excellent video, it helped me a lot! If changing the spark plug tube seals (valve cover), like me, you may be inclined to knock them out with a hammer and large flat bladed screwdriver from the top side. Don't do this, the bottom part will just break off. Instead take your screwdriver from the underside and insert it under the entire seal and pry it out. It will pop right out, no problems. Use the old seal to set on top of the new seal, tap it with your hammer, and the new seal will go in easily. In removing the valve shims, if the shim won't come out using the spacer tool, insert a larger flat bladed screwdriver to create more clearance and the shim will come out. I just completed this service on my 2000 Tacoma prerunner 2.7 with 140k. All valves were in spec, however I had two exhaust valves that were measuring .010in that I brought back to the optimal .012. Timing chain seemed fine. I have used Toyota filters and Mobile 1, 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer. Great Video, thanks for sharing your experience!
+thomas7770 Great job on your Prerunner 2.7! Your engine must have been very well cared for if you only had to adjust two exhaust valves at 140K. I use Mobil 1 in my vehicles also. Its a good-value synthetic oil. I still change at 3000 to 4000 miles though. Thanks for your comments.
If you'd like to save some money, Kawasaki offers a similar tool that is much less expensive (Motion Pro Valve Shim Tool Kawasaki 08-0019). You can find it on EBay or Amazon for less than $10 (1/4 the price of the Honda part). You can also buy the wedge tool without the pliers (Schley 88251 Replacement Spacer Wedge - Toyota & Lexus).
Very clear and concise
Good video sir, really nice editing too I might add, thanks for posting
I was studying up on replacing some of my valve shims when I came across this video. I bought Schley pliers shown in your video a long time ago and was going to use them. The wedge tool looks ten times easier to use. As one commenter mentioned the Kawasaki 08-0019 is just about the same tool and I will be ordering one on Amazon for $8.75. Another tool listed on Amazon that may work with is the Motion Pro Honda Valve Shim Tool 08-0019 or the 08-0017.
Valve adjustment is about the only service on the 3rz, maybe torque/re lube drive shafts
I really liked your explanations and manual illustrations. Great Job.
Thank you!
Thank you. I did learn something.
Awesome video!! Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
Nice video...very clear and easy to understand! AA+
Thanks! I got the Kawi valve tool and it was super easy to use
Great suggestion for the Honda tool. However FINDING one of these is another matter entirely.
Just search on the part number for the tool. I've seen these for sale on eBay.
Five of the sixteen valve gap measurements increased by .001" after 26000 miles in my 1997 Tercel. None of the valve clearances decreased.
Great info vid i was waiting for the cams to come out.
Great video!! I'm in the middle of checking my 2.7 in a 2003 Prerunner, and exhaust is tight. Looked for that Schley tool, and most sites say 'discontinued'. Sounds like I need to look at the Honda holddown tool, but dont' see a p/n anywhere. Is this the same as that Kawasaki tool mentioned in older posts? Thx.
Ok, correction, my bad, I see the p/n at 6:01 of the video. Not sure why some Honda sites don't show it, tho!
Thank for the tutorial GREAT VIDEO
Great video man! This shows exactly what needs to be done so much better than other videos.
By the way... your voice kinda sounds like Dane Cook... LOL.
Any ideas where one might be able to get that Honda bucket depresser tool? I looked all over the internet and couldn't find it by that part number. I'm sure Honda probably charges an obscene amount for it.
With that Honda bucket compressor, is there any concern with scratching the surface of the cam lobe by wedging that tool in there like you show in the video? The Toyota FSM shows the use of the tool like Schley makes and I'm wondering if it's to avoid marring up the surface of the lobes.
This tool has a precisely machined face that is just like the face on the cam that presses down on the bucket. It does not put any marks on the cam or on the shim. Also the motor oil film helps the tool to ride on the film of oil. Finally, the bottom of the cam (called the heel) never touches anything as it spins around. This is the "clearance" part of the interface with the buckets. So, even though this tool does not mark anything up, it wouldn't be of much importance if it did. That's a great question that I also asked many years ago!
Great video, straight to the point 👍
Good Job, Thanks a lot!! Will do this yo my Infiniti FX 45, will replace valve seals, and timing chain, might pull heads off and take pistons out, and replace pistonrings too??, anyway, has to pull out camshafts anyway, and need to do valve adjusment, I bet Infiniti-Nissan is pretty much like Toyota, right?? So, after I do final adjustment, just do the calculations, and go to dealer, and buy those needed shims?? How much they cost, about?? Thanks a lot, youtheman =)Where can I buy/order that bucket pressing tool??
nice job you don
btw in saudi arabia all mechanics send the cylinder head to machine shop to grind a little pit of the valve end they do not swap or change any shim :(
what is the factory clearance for intake/exhaust? 2.4
nice job I worked on suzuki 660 engines and the buckets did not move what a pain when replacing head gaskets
Thanks for your response. One more question - once i finish checking all 12 shims in one side of my engine, and say i find 2 out of range, would it be alright for me to just change those two? Or is it necessary for me to change all of them even if the other 10 are within the required range?
Was just about to buy the other tool but I like the Honda tool. Thanks! Spreadsheet great idea. Just as cold here now too :(.
Loved the video. I gave up on this job with the snap-on tool and took it to a pro. Next time I will try it with the Honda tool. I have a question about the bucket 'hold down' tool. It has 2 ends. Which end did you use? and what is keeping it in place?
Glad you liked the video! I think I was using the wider end of the hold-down tool. When you pull out the bucket depressor (the wedge tool), the hold-down tool is held tightly between the edge of the bucket and the underside of the cam (by valve spring pressure). There is quite a bit of pressure so it's important to place the hold-down tool very accurately on the edge of the bucket. Since the shims stick up above the edge of the bucket, I bring the hold-down tool right up to the edge of the shim.
The "holder" tool has two ends with different widths. I use the widest end that will fit once the bucket is depressed. The bottom of this tool presses against the outer edge of the bucket, and the top of the holder tool presses against the bottom of the rough cast part of the cam shaft that is adjacent to the lobe.
What is a valve adjustment good for? My toyota i bought i noticed it started to lose some power
Thanks
Do you know if the specs for 2.4 liter are the same??
Great video! Question: if I don't have the Honda tool is it possible to do the job with the plier type tool you have? If so how would you use them?
I "REALLY" don't like using the Snap-On tool for this (even though I love their tools and most of my took kit comes from them). This is kind of a poorly thought out design. This particular Snap-On tool was designed and is made by "Kent-Moore Tools, a Brand of SPX Service Solutions". K-M/SPX makes some great special tools, but this is not one of them.
Hi,i have a question,after i check all my valve lashes,the valve shims that are below or above specs those are the one i need to change the shims?also can you provide me with the data to determine which shim to use,thank you
Replace the shim if the measured valve clearance is not within your desired range. Remove the shim, and measure it's thickness using a micrometer. Add or subtract from that value to calculate the replacement shim size. For example, if you measure a clearance of .007" and you want it to be .010" you would replace the shim with one that is .003" thinner.
did do see an improvement by doing this? is the ticking noise reduced?
Yes, the engine is quiet and smooth running. Adjusting the valves reduces engine shake, and improves mileage.
Will the shims that were in before the new ones have a part number under them?
No, the shims don't have a part number on them. The shims that are original to the engine will often have a printed 2-digit code like 28 or 30. If they were purchased from a Toyota dealer, they will usually have a thickness listed in mm as a 4 digit number. You should just measure the shims using a micrometer. By the way, the micrometer is a much better tool for this than a dial caliper because you can read a micrometer to 0.0001". You get a much more accurate measurement to help you decide on which shim to select.
That was an awesome video! Looks so easy with the right tools. I just might tackle it myself. My Toyota has 210000 miles on it and am sure it needs done. Do you know how long one can let it go and the consequences of not doing it?
There is no way to tell just based on miles on the vehicle. The best thing to do is take the valve cover off and measure all the clearances. Then you'll know for sure. Put on a new valve cover gasket, and replace all of the washers under the valve cover bolts. This truck had about 185K on it and most of the intakes were OK, but all of the exhaust valves were too tight. The engine simply won't run properly with valves out of adjustment, you can really tell the difference, less engine shake, smoother sound, better mileage, etc. The danger is if they tighten up to the point where clearance approaches zero, the valves will not be able to close fully, and they will burn and you will have to replace them. The valves cool when they are fully closed against the valve seats. Zero clearance can also cause cams to become scored because there is no space between the cam and shim to pick up oil for lubrication.
Thanks very much for the informative video. I'm preparing to adjust valves on my Toyota Tacoma this spring, and like you, I've also done many shim-over-bucket and shim-under-bucket valve adjustments, but they've all been on motorcycles. The good news is that I own and service my own Honda CB-X, so I already have the bucket depressor and holding tools shown in the video, but seeing the configuration under the valve cover before opening it up will save me a lot of time bc now I know what I'm faced with. One other question, do you happen to know the diameter of the Toyota shims? I ask because I already have an assortment of 25mm dia shims for the CB-X so I may be able to use some of them in the Taco if they're the same dia in the thicknesses that I'll need. Tks again!
I'm not sure the diameter of the shims, but I really prefer to install brand new shims from Toyota.
Doing this to my 2000 4 cylinder Tacoma. Having trouble removing the shims from cylinder 4. Any recommendations or tricks? Also what magnet are you using?
The magnet I'm using is made by Snap-On. You can probably find something very similar on their web site. Sorry, I have not checked this video in a while. Did you manage to get your valve adjustment completed? Another trick I've used in the past if a shim is stuck in the bucket is to use an air blower nozzle with a rubber tip (I use a Snap-On nozzle for this). This is connected to the air line from your compressor. You simply put the tip of the nozzle into the groove that you see me using to pick out the shims, and then give it a blast of air. This will almost always pop the shim out very quickly.
Yes I did. Found myself back at your video for a review. Thanks for making the video that Honda tool is absolutely key.
Hey great video,
Quick question.
I have a 2002 Lexus ES300 3.0 V6 which is a Camry.
I think I have a one cylinder in the front that is giving me that clicking noise. If I change only the shim that is out of range you think that's ok, Or I have change the whole 12 shims on that side or the whole engine?
The reason I'm asking is because here in Georgia the Lexus dealership is charging me $30 for each shim plus taxes which is alot of money for a college student like me.( Not including labor and doing it myself)
Is there a way you could also guide me for where I can find the formula for the new shim I might have to replace in my car
I would say that if you have the valve cover off, it would be a mistake not to measure all of the valve clearances and replace any that are out of spec. You should able to get them much cheaper than that if you shop around, I think the Toyota shims are around $7.50 each. The formula is this: Measure the valve clearance with a feeler gauge. Determine what change you need to make in the clearance. For example if you measure .007" and you want it to be .010" your shim will be .003" thinner than what is in there. Remove shim, measure thickness with a micrometer, subtract .003" from this measurement. That will give you the thickness of the replacement shim. Good luck!
z399y
Do you know where I can find the the specific clearance range for my car. Which has the same engine as a Camry.
Last question, how do I get to move the cam to be at top?
Ive done brakes,tunes ups and oil changes but never mess with the engine.
camilo11315 You need to look in the service manual to find the valve clearances for the intake and the exhaust valves. On some cars these specs are on the vehicle sticker on the underside of the hood. The crankshaft will have a pulley mounted with a large bolt. Your use a wrench or socket on this bolt to turn the crankshaft, that will rotate the cam. Generally, you only want to turn this in the direction the engine rotates while running.
Sounds good thank you and I thought all engines rotate to the right. Thank you very much for your help.
Sorry to bother you. but can a car has lifters and valve shims, because my friends has a Camry same year 4 cylinders and he say he put some liquid to fix the lifters sounds and it went away.
apparently 4 cylinders camry's have a lifters and 6 cylinders camry's have shim valves?
would the cam lobes only wear the center of the shims?
I was wondering if you could just flip the shims.
+Sep Mirtazavi The cam lobe and shim never really contact, but rather float (in relationship to each other) on a film of oil between them. You can remove a shim that has been in an engine for a long time, measure it in the center and on the edge and not see any difference to .0001"
Amazing how to. Thank you very much.
ey nice video question evry shim has diferent mesure or can go in any bucket ?
+karen trujillo All of the shims in this engine have the same diameter, and are interchangeable in any bucket. They only differ in their thickness.
Very detailed. Thank you
Excellent video. Very informative. So when people say "valve adjustment", they mean replacing the shims for this 3rzfe? Thanks.
Yes, that's what it means. The valve adjustment is simply using what ever thickness shim is required to give you the correct clearance between the shim and the cam heel.
Thanks for the detailed video! Are you doing this adjustment cold or hot?
The valve adjustment is done with the engine fully cold. That is how the Toyota service manual says to do it.
Great video. Many thanks
Thank you!
Very helpful video!
where can you purchase the shims? im in california sandiego..
You can get them from the parts department at any Toyota dealer. I recommend using the genuine shims from Toyota.
Great Video Thanks
Great video! I need to do the shims on my 2RZ tacoma it has 195K and the valve cover has never been off.
I also have an '09 CBR 600RR that is going to need adjustment #2 at 32K
its this method used for 05 tacoma prerunner V6 also??
This is the method for the Toyota 3RZ-FE. The 16 valve dual overhead cam 2.7 L.
thank you
Good video, thank you!
Very good,Thanks
Very nice, thanks for sharing.
Well, I will just have to put up with the lifter ticking. This is way beyond anything an owner should have to do and this will be my last Toyota. Cadillac introduced hydraulic valve silencers in 1930 and every auto I have ever owned had them. This is an unacceptable design flaw, I did not buy a motorcycle, it is supposed to be a truck.
Verry helpfull thanks jentlemen
URGENT
One of my valves gave me a clearance gap (when measuring the shims with the feeler gauge) way out of range. The clearance range was between 0.006-0.010, but we measured it at 0.056. The bucket that holds this shim can be moved slightly up and down, so we belive the problem is the spring (none of the other buckets move this way). We dont want to change the spring because of a lack of expertise. We were thinking of getting the thickest shim that Lexus offers, just to make the gap smaller, but it would still be way out of range from what it should be. Would you recommend getting a thicker shim made to reduce the gap, or should we just get the thickest one from Lexus? Or just put another one around the normal size and hope is dirty and after a engine flush the spring will work normal.
P.s. whoever owned this car before me did not change the oil enough so there is a lot of carbon deposits around that valve area. We are going to do an engine flush to try and clear out whatever has built up inside.
I dont know if the spring is old and dont have that much strenght. Or just dirty
Thank you for your time and help. I greatly appreciate it!
Did you have to stack two feeler gauges to measure the .056"? All of the buckets can be moved up and down when the cam is pointed away from them. You probably notice it more in this one because it has more than 5 times the clearance that it should. As hours are put on an engine, the valves nearly always get tighter not looser, so this is an indication of a problem. It could possibly be a bent valve, or one with very heavy carbon deposits. Either of these conditions will prevent a valve from closing completely. It is also possible that the heel of the valve has been shortened previously. Let me know what you find out.
z399y yes, I did have to stack them. We put the thickest shim that lexus offers in the one that was way off, closed things up, turned the engine on. We drove around for a bit and then the engine light and engine oil light started flashing and then stayed on. The ticking noise was also a little worse. We took the car and checked its code which was P0012 - camshaft bank 1 retarded. We figured this was due to the too thick shim, so we opened it up and put a thinner one in. We cleared out the OPC valve and filter as well, cause maybe it was clogged causing the light to turn on. We also changed the oil and the oil filter. We closed things up and the same thing happened again - produced the same code. Any thougts on what we ahould do? My car is a lexus es300 2002. Thanks!
Putting in a shim that is too thick would not cause a 'camshaft retarded' code. Based on what you are describing, I would start by verifying the cam timing. Look in your service manual. There should be a timing mark on the crankshaft pulley, and on each camshaft pulley. If this is off, it is possible that you could have a bent valve, and that would be the reason one valve is not closing all the way (making it impossible to set the clearance using standard shims). Did you get all of the other valves clearances in spec? Make sure you are measuring clearance for each valve with the valve pointed directly away from the bucket. Measure them one by one as your rotate the engine. Always rotate the engine the direction it turns when running. Some engines don't like to be turned backwards, and can skip a tooth on a timing belt. Also, always use the crankshaft pulley to rotate the engine, not the cam pulleys.
z399y
Hello, I found what happened. What happen is that my engine had alot of carbon deposit and I clean some out and put brake cleaner a few times which put all the dirt down the engine. So Because it was so much dirt the oil could not travel as normal and mess the oil pressure and the bad oil pressure made to camshaft to react that way. My friend took the oil pump out and clean the filter and everything and now works great. I still have the ticking noise.
When I put the thickest shim the sound was louder. (WHY?) I HAVE A CLEARANCE THAT NOT SHIM COULD MAKE UP. WHAT SHOULD I DO WHEN MY CLEARANCE IS WAY TO BIG? Some told me to change the shim bucket and that will help some?
Could I put some of that rislone lifters liquid or take the camshaft off and change the shim bucket.
PS the car still have the old shim.
please more videos
How do the timing chains hold up on these motors?
I bought a 2000 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 new that year with this 2.7 liter 3RZ motor & automatic trans. I now have 330,000 miles on it. Timing chain is just fine. Same for the water pump. Thankfully, I befriended TWO guys who both are certified Toyota tech/mechanics. In addition to still working for a Toyota dealership, they partnered years ago to operate a nice shop as their own side business, that they still have. ( IMAGINE HOW LUCKY & BLESSED I AM.....AND THESE GUYS CHARGE ME PEANUTS COMPARED TO ANY OTHER SHOP, NO KIDDING. NOTHING ABOUT ANY TOYOTA ESCAPES THESE GUYS. ) Just this past week, I had them replace a leaky valvecover gasket including sparkplug seals, a new exhaust manifold ( old one was cracked ), REPLACED the rear brake adjusters (it's common for those things to malfunction & quit working, resulting in NO back brakes, even though the shoes are fine, and mine has the "factory tow package" which has the bigger rear brake drums ), replaced all of the bushings and 2 new bolts in the front stabilizer bar, replaced the lower radiator hose & new coolant ( I replaced the upper hose myself only weeks earlier ), replaced a broken door handle, and cleaned out the EGR valve. They did all of that.......PARTS & LABOR......for only $500. THAT'S CHEAP!!! They told me the engine is doing GREAT to have 330,000 miles on it, at 18 years old. Good ole tried & true Castrol GTX 10w30 oil, is all I've ever used in this engine, w/NO additives. I'm gonna have them replace my belts & service the transmission next. Ya just can't beat these engines, and they told me: "Yes, there ARE people who are getting 500,000 to 1 MILLION miles out of their original engine & drivetrain with NO rebuild".
See my previous response from over 2 yrs ago. My 3RZ-FE now has 361,000 miles......still running great, but I did just buy an entire timing chain/gears, balance shaft chain, tensioner & guide kit AND new water pump from LC Engineering. My buddy ( the long time Toyota tech ) is going to do the job for me next weekend. ( 11-14-20 ) Might as well replace the water pump because it has to come out anyway to replace the timing chain, gears, etc, etc. That's free labor. I just installed a stainless steel header to finally get rid of the crappy cast iron exhaust manifolds that ALWAYS crack after 6 to 18 months. WHAT A DIFFERENCE IN PERFORMANCE. I have gobs of torque at low rpm's now. Even the automatic transmission behaves much better, because it downshifts much easier for passing slower traffic. The transmission worked fine before, never any slippage.......but it really works better now. Before, ya had to nearly floor the accelerator pedal to kick it down a gear......now, just a mediocre stab of the throttle makes it happen. Even with 361,000 miles, my engine has better performance than it ever had with a cast iron manifold. Had I known this, I would've installed a header years ago.
@@howabouthetruth2157 I wrote this just after selling my 95 4x4 standard with the 22re, was thinking about a Tacoma. Totally regret selling it even though I got 9k for it
@@shckltnebay Oh man, I bet you do regret it. The 22r and 22re are great little motors. The 3RZ is just as good, but in a slightly different way. It actually replaced the 22re, but is found ONLY in the 4x4 and Pre-Runner among the Tacoma's. The 3RZ was offered from 1994 to 2004. I'm damn lucky my timing chain hasn't broken yet, but that'll be replaced next week. Already have all the parts/kit. My Toyota tech buddy says anything newer will NOT be as durable as the 3RZ or 22r/re motors due to simplicity of design. Everything newer has variable valve timing that has too many parts to wear out much sooner. He should know.......seeing as how he works on them all. Cheers.
@@shckltnebay ........and PS.......the timing chain & balance shaft chain should at least be inspected at 120 to 150,000 miles. If it stretches beyond the limits of the tensioner, it starts slapping the chain guide too hard causing both to break, dropping valves on pistons. Now ya need a total engine rebuild. But mine still had plenty of tension at 330k miles when he replaced the valve cover gasket. But we're done "tempting fate" at 361k.
good job!
Thank you!
Just trying to sell something
Thank you much!!