There's a reason this video is used as reference on so many forums - this gave me the confidence to do this job myself and I'm glad I did! Rear suspension fitted today, front tomorrow! Thank you for making this video, I'm sure it took you a lot longer to do the job whilst getting all the video shots 👍
@@FaRKle0079 follow up - just got finished on the fronts. Took me the best part of 4 hours... But its done. A couple of points for others - buy some decent spring compressors, trying it with cheap ones took a while and felt sketchy. Also, the counter holding whilst using the torque wrench wasn't necessary for me once you tighten it enough with a ratchet, made it easier and didn't have to use crows foot and open socket. Also note that if you installed bilsteins, the new nut on the top of the front damper will be 19mm instead of 18mm on the video, so don't buy a 18mm open sided socket like me.. Thanks!
@@FaRKle0079 appreciate your guidance, i will change my oem edc front shocks to oe bilstein b4 edc shocks in one week on my f36 due to leaking. I am not changing shocks first time but on bmw first time. Really helpful to see all specs and tricky points and the tools that i need to add my inventory would i need for the job. I wonder would i need to take the headlight leveling sensor if i use your method please? My car is rwd, thanks.
Wow! Excellent and detailed tutorial. This has given me the confidence that I could fit these to my M140i rather than pay a garage. Brilliant work, thanks 👌
Best tutorial I found. Took me 10 hours because of missing tools, broken bits, and just random things lol. If I did it again it would probably take me about 3.5-4 hours.
Thank you for making this video. I watched it a few times and then changed all the suspension on my M140i on my driveway. Seeing the tools I would need was dead handy too.
Very good and informative video. I benefited from it when I was going to do the same job. .... but, I see in this video, like many others the tip to use an impact gun to remove and install end links. As a former car mechanic and today an aviation technician, I get shivers when I hear it again and again. These joints are not designed to spin. They will not fall apart, but their service life will be shortened. The method you use (removing front end link) on your M2 is the one referred to by the manufacturers. Felt I wanted to write it to you as you seem to be serious about doing the right thing in your videos. Keep up the good work 👍.
Dude, thank you. I actually feel like I can do this instead of paying the stealership $3600 to do JUST my fronts. Thank you for your detailed video and explaining your "preferred" way vs the "bmw" way, it looks a lot easier than I'd actually thought it was!!
so glad you included your method which circumvents removal of the axle bolts! I just did the thrust arms with monoball upgrade on my f31 xdrive and noticed my front shocks leaking a bit, now I can procure parts without getting yet another set of those bolts! haha
This is one of the best DIY BMW tutorials I've seen in years. Very informative and your method of swapping the struts on X drive is so much better! Thanks a lot!
Thanks for this video! By far, this is the most detailed instructions I can find on youtube! I followed your steps to replace bilstein b6 struts and shocks on my 2015 435i xDrive Gran Coupe. However, I want to point out 2 things: 1. Your xDrive way does not work for me, I have to go with BMW way, my rotor simply won't drop from the strut. 2. I bought the crow foot tool, but later found out it does not fit the pass through socket. I was quite frustrated as I can't torque to spec. Then I later found out, you can just use through socket and center hold to get it tight enough, then with tension on the thread, you can use normal socket and torque wrench and torque it to spec without center hold. No crow foot needed. I hope this helps someone!
2017 440i Gran Coupe RWD here. Got the strut off the steering knuckle with foot pressure, but couldn't get it to drop low enough when putting the new strut (Bilstein B6 Damptronic) in. Also didn't have enough room to rotate the strut and knuckle in through the fender opening. Finally disconnected the ball joint on the LCA and that let the steering knuckle drop enough. I do have the F8x control arms installed, so maybe that makes a difference.
FYI, I used 5/8" spark plug instead of the the 16mm pass though socket for the sway bar link end nut removal. and it is perfect for using crowfoot socket to tight up torque.
Fantastic walk through…thank you! I used the video to install Eibach’s and Koni Yellows this past weekend and this video was a HUGE help. Also, the tool list was awesome to prepare ahead of time for someone who is not a mechanic with limited tools.
Congrats on the new setup! Try starting those Konis at full soft and slowly raising the rebound damping from there. You probably wont have to go too far from soft to find the optimal point.
This video was very helpful. The only problem i had was torquing to spec the shock mount to the shock without a pass through torque wrench. I had to wing it. Thank you
Thanks for this exceptionally detailed video. Your decision to flow through and provide both methods in a logical flow instead of splitting into two videos made it easy to compare the methods and validate your suggested way. I used this video this weekend to help a friend swap his front struts and springs on a 2015 xdrive
Hi from across the pond. Great video! I’d already installed B16s on my F30 (wish I’d used this tutorial when I did it🙄) anyway, it’s such a transformation over standard. I used it this time as I needed new top mounts and needed reminding of the steps! Your videos are so good, I know this is old and you’ve probably upgraded since but even so, keep up the great work. Recently replaced my sway bar using your video too 👍👍 Cheers uk Dave
Thanks much, was about to disassemble much more than I needed to when installing the front Street Comforts in the f31 tonight. Used your method but since I had new lemforder mounts for the KW, it really was as easy as loosen top mounts remove pinch bolt and sway bar link, then vibrate the knuckle off the strut, then tilt out at bottom to remove. For future viewers note, 3 bolt strut mounts use a larger bolt than featured here 15mm iirc, but the lemforder 3 bolt replacements from ECS use the same smaller shanked bolts the 5 bolts do. Luckily I bought the complete set with gaskets bolts etc. suggest you do the same!
Thank you very much. This is the best video on the topic I've come across so far!!! Also applies specifically to my own car. Once again - thanks a lot!
These videos NEVER mention it, but when working on suspension components, keep a can of PB Blaster handy and soak everything you can the day before in penetrating oil. It'll make disassembly an order of magnitude easier, especially if you live in the rust belt.
Thank you so much for this video! I was able to tackle replacing my front struts on my ‘13 F30 335i rwd. I have the electronic dampers so I had to remove the wheel wheel plastic covers to replace the old connection to strut with new ones from Bilsteins. Easy peezy!
Hmm. I was wondering why the adapter cables were so long, and how to secure them. On my car, the stock cables would be long enough to work, and I don't understand why Bilstein wouldn't just supply a short adapter cable to connect the stock cable to the strut.
I love how are proper and even torquing the swaybar endlink :) I also try to torque everything correctly, really easy to get the correct information for BMWs
This is amazing, I was really struggling to get the rear camber bolts off though and ended up giving up. Might give it another go with some penetrating oil to see if that loosens them. Also noticed I had some slightly different bolts on my euro F30 328.
Guys there is a good reason to get the nicer spring compressor.. trust me. I’m in the process of wrestling with the cheap one and its burning hours and a total pain
Very useful video! there are two things I'd like to add counterholds should not be spun, spin the nuts. 2nd some of the bolts need to be torqued but also adder 90° of rotation. You got all the torques right bit not mention about the degrees... on newtis you can look that up.
I'm thinking of changing renewing the shock absorbers and springs after having a look at them since I'll have everything off to do the boots. I have recently fitted a towbar to tow a caravan possibly once every 5 weeks. Do I have to upgrade springs on the rear. Not really wanting to lower the car want like for like springs. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
"kpgray" on the F30 Bimmerpost forums kindly made the below checklist of items needed to do the job in this video. Wow, great job to him! Sockets: □ 1/2" and 3/8" Ratchet/s □ 1/2" Breaker Bar/s □ 1/2" and 3/8" Extensions □ 8 MM Standard 5-Bolt Shock Tower □ 10 MM Standard 3-Bolt Shock Tower / Front Plastic Cover Cam Studs □ 13 MM Standard Front Shock Tower Top Strut □ 16 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut □ 16 MM-Pass Through Rod Ends / Rear Upper Shock Nut □ 17 MM Wheel Studs □ 18 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt □ 18 MM Pass Through Shock Mount Strut / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut □ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Nut / Bolt Combination Ratcheting Wrenches: □ 13 MM Front Shock Tower Top Strut □ 16 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut □ 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut □ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Knuckle Bolt or Nut (Could be either) □ 3/4" For Pass Through Sockets (set dependent) Torx Center-hold: □ T30 Long, Rod End (for 16 MM Pass Through Socket above) E-Torx Socket: □ E12 Rear Upper Shock Bolts □ E18 Front Strut Brace Stud / Rear Camber Arm Bolt □ E20 Rear Arm Nut (Could be either OR 20 MM / 21 MM) Hex Allen Wrench: □ 5 MM, can be socket, Rear Shock Upper Mount (with 16 MM Pass Through Socket above) □ 6 MM, can be socket, Front Shock Mount Strut (with 18 MM Pass Through Socket above) Special Tools: □ Outside Spring Compressor □ 1/2" and 3/8" Torque Wrench/s for ranges 10-150 lbs □ Knuckle Spreader (to open strut clamp) (1 required **ESC Tuning # 2652181) □ Crows Foot for Pass Through Sockets ( 19mm or 3/4" optional due to your personal tools usage) □ Trim Tool for Front Strut Rubber Cover Expand Rivet Removal □ 17 MM Male Hex Socket for xDrive Front Axel Wheel Nut (if removing BMW way)* *IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: ECS # 2859492) □ Pick Tool for removal of BMW Wheel Center Cap (if removing 17 MM Front Axle Wheel Nut, the BMW way) □ Pry Tool for xDrive Headlight Leveling Sensor □ Floor Jack □ Jack Stands Front Torques: 32.5 lbs. 16MM Rod End 41.5 lbs. 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle 47 lbs. 18 MM Shock Damper 5-Bolt Shock Tower = 22 lbs. (8 MM) 3-Bolt Shock Tower = 41.5 lbs. (10 MM) 103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts Rear Torques: 122 lbs. Camber Arm 75 lbs. Shock Bolt 28 lbs. Top Shock Mount (16 MM) 20.65 lbs. E12 Upper Shock Mount 103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts NOTES: *IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: **ECS # 2859492) ** Special Note: ESC Tuning: www.ecstuning.com/
Man I wish I saw this video before I did my rear shocks. I managed to strip both hex’s and it was an ordeal to torque them. I didn’t mangă to reach 38Nm but it think it should be fine as they are locking nuts.
Luckily the rears don't really need to be at full torque spec, and if you used nylock type locking nuts, those actually use a lower torque spec (stated in the damper mfg's instructions).
@@FaRKle0079unfortunately I did not had the nylon lock nut and I've used new oem style. Although I don't think they would back up either. As they are also locking nuts. Last 2-3 threads are deformed intentionally .
Fantastic!!! Thank you so much !! I am still hesitating doing the B6 installation myself on my F20.. Also i have been told to buy new bump stoppers at the front and rear + shock absorber bellows (to prevent dust - whatever you call it - im french haha). What do you guys think ? I cant just use the old ones ? Plus this video says we dont need bump stoppers for front absorber as its integrated in the damper.
PS! Front spring: you can NOT use simple claw spring compressors, you get to remove your spring , but its almost impossible to remount the new spring with a simple claw spring compressor, especially if there are few winding on the spring. I had to buy the type of spring compressor used in this video, so: any spring clamp will NOT do. F30
Wonderful video! I found my front left adaptive damper leaking, so was not looking forward to parts + labor from a garage on this one; will do it myself! One thing I noticed, TIS recommends replacing the hardware and doing the torque values like you mentioned + 90* - any reason to reuse old components?
If you're only going to do this once, it's not much to replace a lot of the fasteners. If you constantly tinker, and play with adjustments, then that adds a decent amount of cost and logistics making sure you have a whole set every time you want to go in there.
Would the car throw any codes or faults if the new Bilsteins do not have EDC? I am new to BMW’s and I’m having a difficult time finding the proper replacement struts for my RWD 435i. I would prefer to purchase struts without EDC since they’re more readily available, but I’m afraid to run into larger problems. Amazing Tutorial!
Yes, unfortunately you'll get errors if you disconnect your EDC dampers. That said it's possible to program/code the EDC system off in your car to allow you to run regular non-EDC dampers just fine. This is what I did for my car and I offer that service (can be done remotely as long as you have a windows laptop with ethernet port and an obd2 to ethernet cable).
Love the video! Just ordered b8 shocks and H & R springs will definitely be using this when I go to install them. Will adjustable/aftermarket end links be needed for the setup I ordered? If so do you have any recommendations and what length? Thanks!
You won't "need" adjustable end links, but they're nice to have. I like the KC Design ones I have, but I'd say more importantly is to look for ones with boots over the ball joints if you drive the car in dirty/wet conditions.
Thank you for the video! Very detailed. I have a question though. How far does the new front strut go into the knuckle? It looks to me you can push it as far as you want in the knuckle? There is no stop for it?
@@mickl6867 The top mounts are probably fine. What would degrade in them is the rubber encapsulating the part where the damper piston mounts to the top mount and the plastic thrust bearing on the underside. Typically it's the thrust bearing that gives out first due to dirt/contamination getting in there. If that doesn't spin well, then I'd get a new assembly. I had my top mounts for like 60k mi before swapping to camber plates and both the rubber and thrust bearings were fine.
Nice video, I have a question about the 18mm pass-through with 6mm counterhold. I saw my mechanic installed my new strut and coil spring without the 6mm counterhold. He just use a socket wrench to tie up the strut and mount. Does that cause strut and mount tie-up not properly? Thank you for your answer.
Mmmmhhhh, so the DIY person has to be sure to lift the car high enough to allow the knuckle assembly to drop down far enough to release the strut. Not an easy thing to do with jack and jack-stands....just a thought.....from someone who is contemplating doing this. Please let me know if I'm mistaken. Thanks.
Great video! Can you answer a question for me? Did you replace all the nuts and bolts you used or just re use the ones that were on there? Replacing mine soon and I'll definitely be revisiting your video during the install. Thanks so much for such an awesome and detailed video, it's very much appreciated!
I reused all of the nuts/bolts. BMW would like you to use new ones for some of them, but that's unnecessary. Just make sure you only tighten them to their fastening torque spec and not torque to yield spec (typically fastening torque +90deg).
@@FaRKle0079 Great, thanks for the reply and the great video. It's helped immensely in figuring out the tools and I'm sure it'll be even more helpful when I do the install.
Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharing~ Is the suspension set in the video M performance spring + bilstein b6? According to your theory, bilstein b6 is so overdamped for stock springs or even eibach pro kit springs for f3x platform, so will the bilstein B6/B8 still overdamped if paired with M performance springs? I am considering this spring shock combo recently😁
10:50 The cheap compressor really could not work. The one u are using barely work when the strut + thread is not short. The coil has only 2-3 "rounds", giving no place to mount the compressor paws, or not much compression possible. It is not easy with this 2-3 round coil.... Just FYI. I was struggling with this.
Thank you for this, it is very detailed. I want to upgrade my suspension, i've got 2017 340i, i knew the damper is the issue, but EDC makes upgrade option very limited. I probably will go BILSTEIN B6 Dampertonic, should I go Spring first? I want ACS springs. But I do want to keep the standard ride height.I am so confused. Please share some experience with me. I saw you did a lot of F30 suspension upgrades.
For coilovers you can go to non EDC versions. You'll either have to use a EDC delete/blank off kit, or disconnect the EDC module in the trunk and code out EDC from the car. If you want to go to stiffer springs but don't want to lower the height you'll have to look at getting springs from other models, like F8x, F33, or F34. Some of those springs should allow you to maintain your current height but be stiffer. You'll need to find someone with the special knowledge of those spring rates and lengths though.
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for the advise, I will ask few local shop see if they can coding my BMW, i am in Australia. If i can non EDC suspension,option will be a lot more to choose from. Yeah I probably should look for those springs if I really want to keep the ride height.
Are the strut mount M8 bolts reusable? I read they are non-reusable because they stretch when tightened and do not provide the same clamping force once untightened.
Hey, I also have 18mm for shock to rear camber bolt like you, but on all F2x/F3x real oem, it says it’s e-torx? I can’t find 18mm hex on realoem for any car F2x/F3x
BMW will use whatever bolt head type they have in stock that day, so it could be 6pt or E-Torx for some of the bolts. The main thing that matters is the thread size, length, and grade, and those will be common between the two head types.
Wow awesome job, I have a small question, let’s say hypothetically you need to replace the front struts would go OEM for 700$ or Bilstein B4 for 400$ ? Appreciate your feedback !
If the rear dampers stayed stock, then I'd look to use OEM dampers for the front. If I was changing all four, I might be more inclined to do the B4s. As much as Bilstein says the B4 is a OE replacement, they use the exact same part number for every F2x/F3x, versus BMW having different PNs (and damping curves) for every individual model.
Hi just want to ask for your feedback on the ride experience with your Bilstein B6 if you don’t mind. I am thinking of upgrading to Bilstein B6 Damptronic for my 2018 F36 xDrive and not sure if this upgrade would totally compromise the ride quality. Thank in advance and hoping for your feedback
It was meant for the F2x/F3x cars, not SUVs unfortunately. That said, the F25 suspension layout is super similar to the cars'. IIRC the rear spring is a coil over though.
@FaRKle0079 thanks for the reply mate, just making sure I hand missed something, your video is fantastic by the way, I was just unsure as I managed to get them off and back on and torqued without using a counterhold! Cheers!
I have a bmw f30 330i and plan on having springs on my car what springs should I get because I want my car to be more stiff and make the car feel more agile
Hi, please I have a question. I have a xdrive model. If I was doing it not the bmw way then I don’t have to remove the collar bolt or the headlight levelling right ?
The "BMW way" is more difficult and requires you to remove the collar bolt and detach the headlight leveling arm. My way only requires you to detach the headlight leveling arm.
There's a reason this video is used as reference on so many forums - this gave me the confidence to do this job myself and I'm glad I did! Rear suspension fitted today, front tomorrow! Thank you for making this video, I'm sure it took you a lot longer to do the job whilst getting all the video shots 👍
Congrats on doing it yourself! Enabling others is exactly why I make these.
@@FaRKle0079 follow up - just got finished on the fronts. Took me the best part of 4 hours... But its done. A couple of points for others - buy some decent spring compressors, trying it with cheap ones took a while and felt sketchy. Also, the counter holding whilst using the torque wrench wasn't necessary for me once you tighten it enough with a ratchet, made it easier and didn't have to use crows foot and open socket. Also note that if you installed bilsteins, the new nut on the top of the front damper will be 19mm instead of 18mm on the video, so don't buy a 18mm open sided socket like me.. Thanks!
@@IggyBam Congrats!
@@FaRKle0079 appreciate your guidance, i will change my oem edc front shocks to oe bilstein b4 edc shocks in one week on my f36 due to leaking. I am not changing shocks first time but on bmw first time. Really helpful to see all specs and tricky points and the tools that i need to add my inventory would i need for the job. I wonder would i need to take the headlight leveling sensor if i use your method please? My car is rwd, thanks.
Wow! Excellent and detailed tutorial. This has given me the confidence that I could fit these to my M140i rather than pay a garage. Brilliant work, thanks 👌
Best tutorial I found. Took me 10 hours because of missing tools, broken bits, and just random things lol. If I did it again it would probably take me about 3.5-4 hours.
Thank you for making this video.
I watched it a few times and then changed all the suspension on my M140i on my driveway.
Seeing the tools I would need was dead handy too.
Very good and informative video. I benefited from it when I was going to do the same job. .... but, I see in this video, like many others the tip to use an impact gun to remove and install end links. As a former car mechanic and today an aviation technician, I get shivers when I hear it again and again. These joints are not designed to spin. They will not fall apart, but their service life will be shortened. The method you use (removing front end link) on your M2 is the one referred to by the manufacturers. Felt I wanted to write it to you as you seem to be serious about doing the right thing in your videos. Keep up the good work 👍.
This video is gold, no other way to put it. Thank you!
Dude, thank you. I actually feel like I can do this instead of paying the stealership $3600 to do JUST my fronts.
Thank you for your detailed video and explaining your "preferred" way vs the "bmw" way, it looks a lot easier than I'd actually thought it was!!
so glad you included your method which circumvents removal of the axle bolts! I just did the thrust arms with monoball upgrade on my f31 xdrive and noticed my front shocks leaking a bit, now I can procure parts without getting yet another set of those bolts! haha
This is one of the best DIY BMW tutorials I've seen in years. Very informative and your method of swapping the struts on X drive is so much better! Thanks a lot!
The best repair video i've ever seen. Thumbs up!!!
Thanks for this video! By far, this is the most detailed instructions I can find on youtube! I followed your steps to replace bilstein b6 struts and shocks on my 2015 435i xDrive Gran Coupe. However, I want to point out 2 things: 1. Your xDrive way does not work for me, I have to go with BMW way, my rotor simply won't drop from the strut. 2. I bought the crow foot tool, but later found out it does not fit the pass through socket. I was quite frustrated as I can't torque to spec. Then I later found out, you can just use through socket and center hold to get it tight enough, then with tension on the thread, you can use normal socket and torque wrench and torque it to spec without center hold. No crow foot needed. I hope this helps someone!
Broooo, I was just wondering how to do this and if that would work! Thanks!
2017 440i Gran Coupe RWD here. Got the strut off the steering knuckle with foot pressure, but couldn't get it to drop low enough when putting the new strut (Bilstein B6 Damptronic) in. Also didn't have enough room to rotate the strut and knuckle in through the fender opening. Finally disconnected the ball joint on the LCA and that let the steering knuckle drop enough. I do have the F8x control arms installed, so maybe that makes a difference.
FYI, I used 5/8" spark plug instead of the the 16mm pass though socket for the sway bar link end nut removal. and it is perfect for using crowfoot socket to tight up torque.
Fantastic walk through…thank you! I used the video to install Eibach’s and Koni Yellows this past weekend and this video was a HUGE help. Also, the tool list was awesome to prepare ahead of time for someone who is not a mechanic with limited tools.
Congrats on the new setup! Try starting those Konis at full soft and slowly raising the rebound damping from there. You probably wont have to go too far from soft to find the optimal point.
DUDE -- THANKS for everything. Your vid saved me a lot of agony doing my rear shocks today. Being prepared helped immensely!
Congrats on getting your new shocks in!
Thanks for the great tutorial... Saves a lot of time and avoids extra work with the half shaft!
Yup, and you don't have to stress about getting a new collar bolt, or worrying you didn't mate your axle to hub properly either!
This video was very helpful. The only problem i had was torquing to spec the shock mount to the shock without a pass through torque wrench. I had to wing it. Thank you
Thanks Farkle!!! Just got done installing Koni Yellows with Eibach springs on my 340i. Your video was the best I've found and it helped tremendously.
Glad it helped!
Wow, great tutorial, Andrew!
Thanks for this exceptionally detailed video. Your decision to flow through and provide both methods in a logical flow instead of splitting into two videos made it easy to compare the methods and validate your suggested way. I used this video this weekend to help a friend swap his front struts and springs on a 2015 xdrive
Perfect level of detail and explanation
Excellent video! A great help when swapping the springs on my F21 M140i. Many thanks from the UK 🙂
Glad you found it helpful!
Excellent video. Best described and demonstrated video by far. Look forward to viewing your tutorials!
Hi from across the pond. Great video! I’d already installed B16s on my F30 (wish I’d used this tutorial when I did it🙄) anyway, it’s such a transformation over standard. I used it this time as I needed new top mounts and needed reminding of the steps! Your videos are so good, I know this is old and you’ve probably upgraded since but even so, keep up the great work.
Recently replaced my sway bar using your video too 👍👍
Cheers uk Dave
Thanks Dave! Glad the content is still helpful!
Thx for this tutorial. Yesterday I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein B6. Peace of cake with this video! Also very handy with those torque specs.
Glad it helped you! Enjoy your new dampers!
Thank you! You made an excelent tutorial. Really came in handy for me during installing B6 on M140i XDrive.
Never knew crow's feet needed to be at 90°. Thanks for that!
Invaluable walk through thanks. Nice step by step method with a calm delivery, very nice. I’m off for a drive 😅
Thanks much, was about to disassemble much more than I needed to when installing the front Street Comforts in the f31 tonight. Used your method but since I had new lemforder mounts for the KW, it really was as easy as loosen top mounts remove pinch bolt and sway bar link, then vibrate the knuckle off the strut, then tilt out at bottom to remove.
For future viewers note, 3 bolt strut mounts use a larger bolt than featured here 15mm iirc, but the lemforder 3 bolt replacements from ECS use the same smaller shanked bolts the 5 bolts do. Luckily I bought the complete set with gaskets bolts etc. suggest you do the same!
Awesome explanation! Very thorough and well thought out!!
Thank you very much. This is the best video on the topic I've come across so far!!! Also applies specifically to my own car. Once again - thanks a lot!
These videos NEVER mention it, but when working on suspension components, keep a can of PB Blaster handy and soak everything you can the day before in penetrating oil. It'll make disassembly an order of magnitude easier, especially if you live in the rust belt.
Thank you so much for this video! I was able to tackle replacing my front struts on my ‘13 F30 335i rwd. I have the electronic dampers so I had to remove the wheel wheel plastic covers to replace the old connection to strut with new ones from Bilsteins. Easy peezy!
‘Wheel wells’, not wheel wheels :)
Congrats! Glad it helped.
Hmm. I was wondering why the adapter cables were so long, and how to secure them. On my car, the stock cables would be long enough to work, and I don't understand why Bilstein wouldn't just supply a short adapter cable to connect the stock cable to the strut.
Thank you for the tutorial. It was very thorough and helped me replace the bump stops in the rear dampers.
Glad I found your tutorial, great work! Having trouble finding a 18mm 'Difficult Access' socket. Common sizes are 17mm or 19mm, but no 18mm.
Thanks for your thorough tutorial.
Outstanding video. Well done for getting so much detail in there.
Thanks!
Brilliant tutorial, so much detail! Thanks for sharing
Very clear - best video I've found on this topic
I love how are proper and even torquing the swaybar endlink :) I also try to torque everything correctly, really easy to get the correct information for BMWs
This is amazing, I was really struggling to get the rear camber bolts off though and ended up giving up. Might give it another go with some penetrating oil to see if that loosens them.
Also noticed I had some slightly different bolts on my euro F30 328.
Guys there is a good reason to get the nicer spring compressor.. trust me. I’m in the process of wrestling with the cheap one and its burning hours and a total pain
Great video mate! Going to be putting Bilstein's on my M135i soon :)
Thank you for this great detailed video, it’s much appreciated! 👍
Very useful video! there are two things I'd like to add counterholds should not be spun, spin the nuts. 2nd some of the bolts need to be torqued but also adder 90° of rotation. You got all the torques right bit not mention about the degrees... on newtis you can look that up.
Great tutorial - very detailed, and lots of helpful tips!
Superb video I need to replace the suspension boots/ gaiters. So this in invaluable to me. 😊
I'm thinking of changing renewing the shock absorbers and springs after having a look at them since I'll have everything off to do the boots. I have recently fitted a towbar to tow a caravan possibly once every 5 weeks. Do I have to upgrade springs on the rear. Not really wanting to lower the car want like for like springs.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Did today on my M140i. Great tutorial. One thing I’d recommend people do is get a impact gun (400nm did me).
Awesome tutorial... Thank You :)
This is just fabulous
Thank you so much for this video. Great information and details.🙏🏼🙏🏼
Perfectly described and demonstrated 👌
thank you for this how to guide
"kpgray" on the F30 Bimmerpost forums kindly made the below checklist of items needed to do the job in this video. Wow, great job to him!
Sockets:
□ 1/2" and 3/8" Ratchet/s
□ 1/2" Breaker Bar/s
□ 1/2" and 3/8" Extensions
□ 8 MM Standard 5-Bolt Shock Tower
□ 10 MM Standard 3-Bolt Shock Tower / Front Plastic Cover Cam Studs
□ 13 MM Standard Front Shock Tower Top Strut
□ 16 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut
□ 16 MM-Pass Through Rod Ends / Rear Upper Shock Nut
□ 17 MM Wheel Studs
□ 18 MM Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt
□ 18 MM Pass Through Shock Mount Strut / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut
□ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Nut / Bolt
Combination Ratcheting Wrenches:
□ 13 MM Front Shock Tower Top Strut
□ 16 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut
□ 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut
□ 21 MM Rear Camber Arm Knuckle Bolt or Nut (Could be either)
□ 3/4" For Pass Through Sockets (set dependent)
Torx Center-hold:
□ T30 Long, Rod End (for 16 MM Pass Through Socket above)
E-Torx Socket:
□ E12 Rear Upper Shock Bolts
□ E18 Front Strut Brace Stud / Rear Camber Arm Bolt
□ E20 Rear Arm Nut (Could be either OR 20 MM / 21 MM)
Hex Allen Wrench:
□ 5 MM, can be socket, Rear Shock Upper Mount (with 16 MM Pass Through Socket above)
□ 6 MM, can be socket, Front Shock Mount Strut (with 18 MM Pass Through Socket above)
Special Tools:
□ Outside Spring Compressor
□ 1/2" and 3/8" Torque Wrench/s for ranges 10-150 lbs
□ Knuckle Spreader (to open strut clamp) (1 required **ESC Tuning # 2652181)
□ Crows Foot for Pass Through Sockets ( 19mm or 3/4" optional due to your personal tools usage)
□ Trim Tool for Front Strut Rubber Cover Expand Rivet Removal
□ 17 MM Male Hex Socket for xDrive Front Axel Wheel Nut (if removing BMW way)*
*IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: ECS # 2859492)
□ Pick Tool for removal of BMW Wheel Center Cap (if removing 17 MM Front Axle Wheel Nut, the BMW way)
□ Pry Tool for xDrive Headlight Leveling Sensor
□ Floor Jack
□ Jack Stands
Front Torques:
32.5 lbs. 16MM Rod End
41.5 lbs. 18 MM Strut Clamp Knuckle
47 lbs. 18 MM Shock Damper
5-Bolt Shock Tower = 22 lbs. (8 MM)
3-Bolt Shock Tower = 41.5 lbs. (10 MM)
103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts
Rear Torques:
122 lbs. Camber Arm
75 lbs. Shock Bolt
28 lbs. Top Shock Mount (16 MM)
20.65 lbs. E12 Upper Shock Mount
103.25 lbs. 17mm Wheel Bolts
NOTES:
*IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: **ECS # 2859492)
** Special Note: ESC Tuning: www.ecstuning.com/
The front strut clamp knuckle torque should be 32 ft lbs as indicated in the video plus 90 degree turn
@@TrackandBuild Yup, but you only want to do the +90deg if using a new bolt, otherwise you'll have "double stretched" a used one.
Great video! Very informative!
A full aligment is essential afterwards too
thanks bro, great guide.
thank you for the good tutorial. I am much better prepared to start this job myself.
thank you very much for doing this
Man I wish I saw this video before I did my rear shocks. I managed to strip both hex’s and it was an ordeal to torque them. I didn’t mangă to reach 38Nm but it think it should be fine as they are locking nuts.
Luckily the rears don't really need to be at full torque spec, and if you used nylock type locking nuts, those actually use a lower torque spec (stated in the damper mfg's instructions).
@@FaRKle0079unfortunately I did not had the nylon lock nut and I've used new oem style. Although I don't think they would back up either. As they are also locking nuts. Last 2-3 threads are deformed intentionally .
Very Nice video 👍👍👍
Great video. Well done!
Thanks for this video
Great job. Much appreciated.
Great video!
Fantastic!!! Thank you so much !! I am still hesitating doing the B6 installation myself on my F20.. Also i have been told to buy new bump stoppers at the front and rear + shock absorber bellows (to prevent dust - whatever you call it - im french haha). What do you guys think ? I cant just use the old ones ? Plus this video says we dont need bump stoppers for front absorber as its integrated in the damper.
PS! Front spring: you can NOT use simple claw spring compressors, you get to remove your spring , but its almost impossible to remount the new spring with a simple claw spring compressor, especially if there are few winding on the spring. I had to buy the type of spring compressor used in this video, so: any spring clamp will NOT do. F30
Wonderful video! I found my front left adaptive damper leaking, so was not looking forward to parts + labor from a garage on this one; will do it myself!
One thing I noticed, TIS recommends replacing the hardware and doing the torque values like you mentioned + 90* - any reason to reuse old components?
If you're only going to do this once, it's not much to replace a lot of the fasteners. If you constantly tinker, and play with adjustments, then that adds a decent amount of cost and logistics making sure you have a whole set every time you want to go in there.
you ever had the front axel pull out on the front from twisting the hub too much going in?
Very informative thanks for sharing
Pro detail explain 👍🏽👍🏽👌🏽
Would the car throw any codes or faults if the new Bilsteins do not have EDC? I am new to BMW’s and I’m having a difficult time finding the proper replacement struts for my RWD 435i. I would prefer to purchase struts without EDC since they’re more readily available, but I’m afraid to run into larger problems.
Amazing Tutorial!
Yes, unfortunately you'll get errors if you disconnect your EDC dampers. That said it's possible to program/code the EDC system off in your car to allow you to run regular non-EDC dampers just fine. This is what I did for my car and I offer that service (can be done remotely as long as you have a windows laptop with ethernet port and an obd2 to ethernet cable).
Love the video! Just ordered b8 shocks and H & R springs will definitely be using this when I go to install them. Will adjustable/aftermarket end links be needed for the setup I ordered? If so do you have any recommendations and what length? Thanks!
You won't "need" adjustable end links, but they're nice to have. I like the KC Design ones I have, but I'd say more importantly is to look for ones with boots over the ball joints if you drive the car in dirty/wet conditions.
Thank you for the video! Very detailed. I have a question though. How far does the new front strut go into the knuckle? It looks to me you can push it as far as you want in the knuckle? There is no stop for it?
Superb!
@FaRKle0079 Excellent detailed DIY! I’ll be following this guide when installing B6 Damptronics on my 440i RWD next week. Thanks 👍
Thanks and congrats on the new dampers!
FaRKle0079 Would it be ok to reuse the front top strut mounts as the vehicle has cover 50k miles or replace with new?
@@mickl6867 The top mounts are probably fine. What would degrade in them is the rubber encapsulating the part where the damper piston mounts to the top mount and the plastic thrust bearing on the underside. Typically it's the thrust bearing that gives out first due to dirt/contamination getting in there. If that doesn't spin well, then I'd get a new assembly. I had my top mounts for like 60k mi before swapping to camber plates and both the rubber and thrust bearings were fine.
You the man FaRKle !!
Top merci , je me posais quelques questions pour le remplacement des ressorts courts sur mon Xdrive , me voila rassuré ! merci
Nice video, I have a question about the 18mm pass-through with 6mm counterhold. I saw my mechanic installed my new strut and coil spring without the 6mm counterhold. He just use a socket wrench to tie up the strut and mount. Does that cause strut and mount tie-up not properly? Thank you for your answer.
If he was able to hold the strut shaft securely some other way, he might not have needed the 6mm hex counter hold.
Mmmmhhhh, so the DIY person has to be sure to lift the car high enough to allow the knuckle assembly to drop down far enough to release the strut. Not an easy thing to do with jack and jack-stands....just a thought.....from someone who is contemplating doing this. Please let me know if I'm mistaken. Thanks.
Great video! Can you answer a question for me? Did you replace all the nuts and bolts you used or just re use the ones that were on there? Replacing mine soon and I'll definitely be revisiting your video during the install. Thanks so much for such an awesome and detailed video, it's very much appreciated!
I reused all of the nuts/bolts. BMW would like you to use new ones for some of them, but that's unnecessary. Just make sure you only tighten them to their fastening torque spec and not torque to yield spec (typically fastening torque +90deg).
@@FaRKle0079 Great, thanks for the reply and the great video. It's helped immensely in figuring out the tools and I'm sure it'll be even more helpful when I do the install.
one of the most valuable pieces of info in here. thank you!
❤ thank you
if RWD would you suggest doing it your way rather than pull the knuckle and stut down together?
Legend
Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharing~ Is the suspension set in the video M performance spring + bilstein b6? According to your theory, bilstein b6 is so overdamped for stock springs or even eibach pro kit springs for f3x platform, so will the bilstein B6/B8 still overdamped if paired with M performance springs? I am considering this spring shock combo recently😁
10:50 The cheap compressor really could not work. The one u are using barely work when the strut + thread is not short. The coil has only 2-3 "rounds", giving no place to mount the compressor paws, or not much compression possible. It is not easy with this 2-3 round coil.... Just FYI. I was struggling with this.
Thank you for this, it is very detailed. I want to upgrade my suspension, i've got 2017 340i, i knew the damper is the issue, but EDC makes upgrade option very limited. I probably will go BILSTEIN B6 Dampertonic, should I go Spring first? I want ACS springs. But I do want to keep the standard ride height.I am so confused. Please share some experience with me. I saw you did a lot of F30 suspension upgrades.
For coilovers you can go to non EDC versions. You'll either have to use a EDC delete/blank off kit, or disconnect the EDC module in the trunk and code out EDC from the car.
If you want to go to stiffer springs but don't want to lower the height you'll have to look at getting springs from other models, like F8x, F33, or F34. Some of those springs should allow you to maintain your current height but be stiffer. You'll need to find someone with the special knowledge of those spring rates and lengths though.
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for the advise, I will ask few local shop see if they can coding my BMW, i am in Australia. If i can non EDC suspension,option will be a lot more to choose from. Yeah I probably should look for those springs if I really want to keep the ride height.
Hey, thanks for the tips this DIY video is great. Would you happen to know if the F34 GT is the same?
64 Nm torque should be applied to top nut when spring is compressed, isn't it?
Are the strut mount M8 bolts reusable? I read they are non-reusable because they stretch when tightened and do not provide the same clamping force once untightened.
Yeah you can re-use those, just don't add the additional 90deg angle after the fastening torque.
Hey, I also have 18mm for shock to rear camber bolt like you, but on all F2x/F3x real oem, it says it’s e-torx? I can’t find 18mm hex on realoem for any car F2x/F3x
BMW will use whatever bolt head type they have in stock that day, so it could be 6pt or E-Torx for some of the bolts. The main thing that matters is the thread size, length, and grade, and those will be common between the two head types.
Wow awesome job, I have a small question, let’s say hypothetically you need to replace the front struts would go OEM for 700$ or Bilstein B4 for 400$ ? Appreciate your feedback !
If the rear dampers stayed stock, then I'd look to use OEM dampers for the front. If I was changing all four, I might be more inclined to do the B4s.
As much as Bilstein says the B4 is a OE replacement, they use the exact same part number for every F2x/F3x, versus BMW having different PNs (and damping curves) for every individual model.
Great Vid. I didn't realize you could swap out the adaptive shocks and replace it with standard shocks. What did you use to code out the EDC?
I used ESYS to code out EDC.
Hi just want to ask for your feedback on the ride experience with your Bilstein B6 if you don’t mind. I am thinking of upgrading to Bilstein B6 Damptronic for my 2018 F36 xDrive and not sure if this upgrade would totally compromise the ride quality. Thank in advance and hoping for your feedback
New to bimmers and bought some Vogtland springs for my 17 x3. Does f2x mean this tutorial applies to my f25?
It was meant for the F2x/F3x cars, not SUVs unfortunately. That said, the F25 suspension layout is super similar to the cars'. IIRC the rear spring is a coil over though.
I've managed to remove and torque the sway bar/droplink without using a counterhold..am I missing something?
You got lucky! It means the ball joint in the ends of the sway bar are tighter than others.
@FaRKle0079 thanks for the reply mate, just making sure I hand missed something, your video is fantastic by the way, I was just unsure as I managed to get them off and back on and torqued without using a counterhold! Cheers!
@FaRkLe0079 great DIY video. noticed in beginning you had edc. i would like to ask, did the your new strut/ shocks come with edc plug in location?
I coded EDC out and disconnected the module. My Fat Cat Motorsports suspension setup is passive. I don't miss EDC.
I have a bmw f30 330i and plan on having springs on my car what springs should I get because I want my car to be more stiff and make the car feel more agile
I think dampers would be a better upgrade than springs for handling Bilstein B6/8 would probably give you what you're looking for.
Hi, please I have a question. I have a xdrive model. If I was doing it not the bmw way then I don’t have to remove the collar bolt or the headlight levelling right ?
The "BMW way" is more difficult and requires you to remove the collar bolt and detach the headlight leveling arm. My way only requires you to detach the headlight leveling arm.
@@FaRKle0079 thank you. I thought your method required removing the collar bolt but I understand now. I shall attempt this with confidence.
Great work! Which bilstein shocks and springs are these? Cheers
Good job 👏