BMW F2x F3x Tension Strut Replacement (RWD & xDrive)
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- I've been waiting for an excuse to make a video on swapping the tension strut control arm (also referred to as thrust arm, upper control arm, and forward control arm), and a failing press fit on a beta test monoball gave me just that opportunity this past weekend... This video covers the replacement of this arm for both xDrive and sDrive (RWD) vehicles.
Index:
0:00 Intro
0:26 Loosening the collar bolt (xDrive only)
2:00 Removing the wheel and identifying the tension strut arm
3:02 Removing the collar bolt (xDrive only)
3:25 Removing underbody panels
3:44 Removing tension strut from subframe
4:21 Removing tension strut from knuckle
6:08 Installing tension strut on knuckle
7:27 Installing tension strut to subframe
12:14 Installing underbody panels
12:36 Securing drive shaft and inserting collar bolt (xDrive only)
13:25 Putting the wheel back on and lowering the car
13:42 Torquing collar bolt and installing dust caps (xDrive only)
14:36 Torquing wheel bolts
14:43 Closing remarks and alignment
*Affiliated Links
-sDrive/RWD tension strut (left, driver's side): amzn.to/3ej6Lr9
-sDrive/RWD tension strut (right, passenger's side): amzn.to/3c6Il2G
-xDrive tension strut (left, driver's side): amzn.to/3c6HGye
-xDrive tension strut (right, passenger's side):amzn.to/2LVCyT5
-xDrive collar bolt: amzn.to/3d4XjaD
-17mm hex socket: amzn.to/2TGJ98d
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DISCLOSURE:
Some of the product links on this page are Amazon affiliated so I earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support 
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Awesome info and very clear directions!
Good job pal but might be ordering one of those car lifts for Christmas. ✅
Thanks! This was a very helpful tutorial that crosses many platforms. I used the steps to replace the tension struts on my 2019 X3.
Got mine done yesterday rwd thank you.
Lol, your videos are coming to my rescue. I showed the OFHG leak that I was asking you about on the catch can video, they pointed out that the leak is from this thrust arm bushing and now you have this DIY.. Just superb stuff.
Well that's certainly preferable to an engine gasket leak! Glad it could help!
Just happened across this as I research getting monoball UCAs for my 440 (RWD). Specific to the UCA, it actually looks pretty straight forward! Thank you for running through this slowly, step by step. Seems like since I don't have to even deal with the front driveshaft, it's just a matter of loosening bolts and swapping out the arm.
Great job bro! Very thorough and informational...I appreciate your video!
Thanks!
You Sir seem to know what you are doing.Thank you
Nice lift
Great content again 😅
I just got my 240i 2018 rwd, have to go through same steps as you did))
Congrats on your new ride! At least with RWD it's not that difficult!
I feel that the car is shaking after 60mph , do you think it might be this tension struts?
HOLY CRAP!!!! I ended up getting the replacement kit from FCP. My bushings were leaking, that was the only reason why.
Good thing you caught that dude!
Yup, after I loctited the monoball it's hasn't budged.
@@FaRKle0079 lol I saw the massive amount. Lol
Thanks a lot fella.
Mine is a BMW F30 but the procedure should be the same. :)
Yup, same procedure!
@@FaRKle0079 I bought the rocker cover on eBay for £83 & a new seal for £33.
Then the labour cost me £298 including 4 new injection seals!
It looked a bit more complicated than a MK 2 Escort!
Good video though. 🙂
Hey! Great videos, you really covered many options for these cars but im looking at something a little different. I'm considering the Millway sealed monoball (as im in a snowy climate), any experience with these? Also any experience with the lower control arm bushing, looking to swap that as well? thanks!
I haven't had those Millway parts in hand before, but given my experience with their other parts, I'd trust them. For the LCA monoball, I have the VAC monoballs in my car. They're also fully sealed and work well.
@@FaRKle0079 appreciate the reply. Not much information on the millway monoballs online but I went ahead and placed an order!
Love the video and the explanations very informative. Now on your vehicle you used the monoball, but in the description links they are to the OEM style. Which Monoball did you use or would you recommend? My OEM bushings are leaking and need to be replaced, but I'm leaning toward the monoball rather than the OEM style. I see below you mention the VAC monoball, but they don't look like what you put on the car in this video. Could you give a me a part number or something to look into?
I have the KMAC caster adjustable monoballs on mine.
Good informative video. Can see that you have a two-piece brake disc from stoptech. Is there any special solution or is it a disc that can be ordered via part number? I have an M140i x-drive that has identical m-sport brakes with the F30/F31. But it is impossible to find good brake discs for it.
At least here in Sweden.
Or do you have the 370mm?
@@sehla4 The Stoptech rotors I have are 370mm. The PNs are 129.34144.13 and 129.34144.14. There are other variants (same base number of 129.34144.) where the last two digits of the PN denote either blank, drilled, or slotted rotors.
For 340 mm rotors the only 2-pc floating solution I"m aware of is ECS Tuning's: www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/2-piece-lightweight-front-brake-rotors-pair-340x30/014586ecskt/
FaRKle0079 That's what I suspected. Thanks for the quick reply. May have to replace everything with the Alcon big Brake kit. It can be ordered smoothly from the UK. Everything from US is a pain in the .... thanks to the Swedish Customs.
Good video. I have a F20 RWD M140i and want to make more negative camber. Do you suggest use Millway street camber plate or M car lower control arm? I am worried about the noise of camber plate. If I take M lower control arm, I also worried about it will change the geometric of original suspension. Thanks.
Nice ride! I wish we got the 1-series in the US. Is there a specific amount of negative camber you're looking for?
The F8x wishbone arm should get you to about -1.5deg in front. It'll also push the wheel a bit forward in the well and give you more caster too (not really a bad thing).
If you're going to be doing track days, and needing to dial in a specific amount of negative camber, I recommend going with the Millway Street camber plates. They should add minimal noise and give you the adjustability you want. If you just want some negative camber just to have some, then the F8x wishbone arm should be fine.
@@FaRKle0079 I usually do track day around every 2 months. Besides, almost every weekend I drive canyon roads with pretty high speed. I am looking for over -2.0deg for canyon roads and -2.5deg for track. So go to Millway is better way!? By the way, now I am using Powerflex caster and camber adjusting bushing, but it makes rubber squeak after only six months.
@@erictsaikiki I would definitely recommend the Millway Street camber plates then for your use case. Sticking with -2.5deg front camber on the street should also be fine. That's what I'm running.
Also, double check the wishbone/lca powerflex bushing for fore/aft flex. The design looks like it could fail like the superpro bushings I saw fail that way.
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks a lot. Looking for more videos from you.
Hi! Will a deep socket 21mm pass through work with putting the nut on the ball joint/applying torque?
It should. Sometimes the ball joints have enough resistance that you can just use an impact/normal deep socket and zip the nut off/on too without having to counter hold.
Question regarding the drive shaft - does it simply pull out? Or is there a step to undoing it that's not in the video?
Yes it simply pulls out once you've removed the collar bolt. It naturally wants to spring back out towards the knuckle a bit though.
@FaRKle0079 I didn't twig the very first step in the videoz removal of the collar bolt was for this reason 👍
Hi I have a f10 2013 it is the same process as yours?
The process is very similar. The tension strut arm connects the subframe to the knuckle like on my car, but the bolt/nut sizes may be different so the torque specs might not be the same.
Thanks , I am gonna do mine today, this will the first time I do this , I hope can do everything well done
Hi I did , I could do only driver side, it was hard, thanks for the video, I have a question, did you only replace one side or both? BMW recommend replace control arms on pairs.
@@198888joshua Congrats! Typically you replace both because the bushings are similarly worn, but it's not critical to do so. If one side is still good you don't HAVE to replace it.
Do you have to get alignment right after ?
Hey we found someone that didnt watch the video!
All of your videos are great. I am going to attempt this shortly and feel much better about it after watching your video. really informative. One question. How did you torque the bolt on the knuckle to spec with the passthrough? is there a special socket? you can also PM on f30bimmerpost @ njdangelo if it is easier.
Thanks again!
You should be able to screw the nut onto the post using a wrench/passthrough tools tight enough such that you don't need to counterhold to get to final torque. I just used a socket on my torque wrench.
If for some reason you're REALLY unlucky and that's not the case, you'd have to use a passthrough socket and put a crows foot wrench on your torque wrench to turn that. It'd probably help to have another person to hold the counter hold in that case given the high torque spec.
@@FaRKle0079 Makes perfect sense. Thanks again!
Easy Job ! I just pay 520€ for this last month 🤕