Great content! Held my breath a number of times as you worked! You are a very brave man. Modeling the Transition Era as I do a good part of my roster is steam. As my steamers age and require the type of work you illustrate I retire them and replace with first generation diesels. Much easier to work on. Less drama for me means a happier modeler.
I have one similar to that in Santa Fe. Fortunately, when planning my layout, I went with the 11 1/2" radius curves, but even then, it doesn't like it. Also, my 89 ft auto racks don't look that great turning the tight radius.
Steam n-scale locos like 4-8-4 usually take 11in radius curves. The larger the radius, the better your steam locos will run. Go to the manufacturer web site and there you can get more info
FWIW there is no need to remove the pins on the rear driver, it will lift off with the front driver and side rods when the crank pin is removed. The newest version of this loco has a completely different motor.
I have one of these models, came in a set and it ran ok for a while then died suddenly. Bachmann replaced it with one that will hardly run. I no longer buy Bachmann locomotives due to their poor quality and high failure rate. I had a DCC model to fail and sent it back under warranty, they sent me a completely different model that was DC packed in a jewel box with no padding or inserts to keep it stationary. It slid around in that box and broke the couplers and mounts and dislodged the cab and windshield insert. I had a spectrum "J", very expensive, it fell apart and stopped running, no replacement. The last ones I bought came with defective parts, parts that I had to order and replace just to get them to run properly, that was it for me. I have a nicely detailed Bachmann steam locomotive that is DCC, I really like this one, but it too has failed, I suspect a broken or cracked gear. I do have some European locomotives from Bachmann's European division, they are nicely detailed and have functioned well with no issues so far. I have been acquiring Kato models for some time now and do have some Model Power steam locomotives both DC and DCC with sound, albeit the sound level on those models is very low. I have a couple of BLI models and just acquired a Kato GS-4 in black, I installed an EM13 motor control in the tender to run on my DCC track.
Early Bachmann steam, especially, left a lot to be desired. There mechanisms were very poorly designed. I have a couple of the “Union Pacific” “Northerns” as well as the Mikado and Consolidation. The gears in the last two would split because of a lack of quality control of the axles, some axles were too large for the gear, causing excess pressure on the nylon gear sets. I wish Bachmann would put as much thought into their drives as they do the design of the model shells. A lack of good chassis design seems to run throughout the entire locomotive lines, from N scale all the way up to their G gauge “Big Haulers. However, in their defense, the “Spectrum” line seems to be an effort to produce a better quality product.
I have a few of the more recent engines. They are great! However they are close to the price point of Kato. If you want a great running 4-8-4 Kato makes one.
Sorry Eric, I'm still new to this RUclips subscriber/commentor thing. So much so, this is still listed as Beth, my wife. I'll get there. I noticed when you tested the engine on the track, between minutes 26 and 28, the loco kinda "lifted". Usually when you changed the direction. Is that a Bachmann thing or something else? Just an FYI, these videos are great for me since I am still learning the hobby. Thanks, Jerry
Mine dosent fall off curves, it just stutters like hell. I have a bachmann Santa Fe f7 and it runs smooth but my 4-8-4 is the only engine that stutters and I have the same radius curves that came with the set (empire builder)
@@watchtrainsnow1099 yeah empire builder was what got me started with n scale. it cuts out randomly over rails its like the pickups are screwed up on it. Could that be possible? It does it on straights too
@@watchtrainsnow1099 Would this engine be easy for me to take apart, im only 12 but im pretty good with n scale and know how to handle them, (you can check my channel for proof of concept lol) Ive taken locos apart before and i fixed a old ho engine. But should i take the shell off to clean wheels so i can get all around them or put a paper towel under the wheels and give it power?
I just dug my old set out of the closet. My engine is all jacked up, gonna try realigning the wheels as you showed and see if it works any better.
It’s worth a try. Engines are very good now. If you want a good experience, buy a Kato Heavy Mikado.
Great content! Held my breath a number of times as you worked! You are a very brave man. Modeling the Transition Era as I do a good part of my roster is steam. As my steamers age and require the type of work you illustrate I retire them and replace with first generation diesels. Much easier to work on. Less drama for me means a happier modeler.
Thanks for watching!
Any idea where a dcc decoder would attach? Thanks for the video! I have 3 steam locos to take apart and clean, and I had no idea where to start.
Here’s a video: ruclips.net/video/G1CsasE63og/видео.htmlsi=mplANkR2ErXIPfww
@@watchtrainsnow1099 Awesome! Thanks!
I have one similar to that in Santa Fe. Fortunately, when planning my layout, I went with the 11 1/2" radius curves, but even then, it doesn't like it. Also, my 89 ft auto racks don't look that great turning the tight radius.
Yes, model railroads have always been that way. Remember 0 gauge?
Steam n-scale locos like 4-8-4 usually take 11in radius curves. The larger the radius, the better your steam locos will run. Go to the manufacturer web site and there you can get more info
I wish they would tell people in the box.
My current layout is a mix of 11" and 9 3/4" radius curves. But my motive power are NW-2's and doodlebugs.
the NW2 will go over tight curves no problem...
FWIW there is no need to remove the pins on the rear driver, it will lift off with the front driver and side rods when the crank pin is removed. The newest version of this loco has a completely different motor.
That is good to know. Thanks!
I have one of these models, came in a set and it ran ok for a while then died suddenly. Bachmann replaced it with one that will hardly run. I no longer buy Bachmann locomotives due to their poor quality and high failure rate. I had a DCC model to fail and sent it back under warranty, they sent me a completely different model that was DC packed in a jewel box with no padding or inserts to keep it stationary. It slid around in that box and broke the couplers and mounts and dislodged the cab and windshield insert. I had a spectrum "J", very expensive, it fell apart and stopped running, no replacement. The last ones I bought came with defective parts, parts that I had to order and replace just to get them to run properly, that was it for me. I have a nicely detailed Bachmann steam locomotive that is DCC, I really like this one, but it too has failed, I suspect a broken or cracked gear. I do have some European locomotives from Bachmann's European division, they are nicely detailed and have functioned well with no issues so far. I have been acquiring Kato models for some time now and do have some Model Power steam locomotives both DC and DCC with sound, albeit the sound level on those models is very low. I have a couple of BLI models and just acquired a Kato GS-4 in black, I installed an EM13 motor control in the tender to run on my DCC track.
Sometimes I get Bachmann engines for the challenge of making them run. Kato is much better. You get what you pay for.
Early Bachmann steam, especially, left a lot to be desired. There mechanisms were very poorly designed. I have a couple of the “Union Pacific” “Northerns” as well as the Mikado and Consolidation. The gears in the last two would split because of a lack of quality control of the axles, some axles were too large for the gear, causing excess pressure on the nylon gear sets. I wish Bachmann would put as much thought into their drives as they do the design of the model shells. A lack of good chassis design seems to run throughout the entire locomotive lines, from N scale all the way up to their G gauge “Big Haulers. However, in their defense, the “Spectrum” line seems to be an effort to produce a better quality product.
I have a few of the more recent engines. They are great! However they are close to the price point of Kato. If you want a great running 4-8-4 Kato makes one.
It seems I hear alot of problems with Bachman and Broadway Limited locomotives. Nice rebuild and review. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Do you know of other videos about Broadway limited engines with problems? The Bachman they have been sometimes good sometimes bad for 30 years…
@@watchtrainsnow1099 Not specifically. I do remember some where they seem to break down a lot.
Sorry Eric, I'm still new to this RUclips subscriber/commentor thing. So much so, this is still listed as Beth, my wife. I'll get there.
I noticed when you tested the engine on the track, between minutes 26 and 28, the loco kinda "lifted". Usually when you changed the direction. Is that a Bachmann thing or something else?
Just an FYI, these videos are great for me since I am still learning the hobby. Thanks, Jerry
It lifted because the track is uneaten. A long locomotive amplifies the motion. The Kato FEF3 has a suspension, so you notice it less.
Mine dosent fall off curves, it just stutters like hell. I have a bachmann Santa Fe f7 and it runs smooth but my 4-8-4 is the only engine that stutters and I have the same radius curves that came with the set (empire builder)
Empire builder is a nice set. Many people have a hard time with the 4-8-4. You will find it runs great on the straight or wide curves.
@@watchtrainsnow1099 yeah empire builder was what got me started with n scale. it cuts out randomly over rails its like the pickups are screwed up on it. Could that be possible? It does it on straights too
Maybe so, maybe the wheels are dirty.
@@watchtrainsnow1099 Would this engine be easy for me to take apart, im only 12 but im pretty good with n scale and know how to handle them, (you can check my channel for proof of concept lol) Ive taken locos apart before and i fixed a old ho engine. But should i take the shell off to clean wheels so i can get all around them or put a paper towel under the wheels and give it power?
Go one step at a time. You can follow what I did. It’s not easy. But you can try. If you can do it you are pretty good!
Glad to see I'm not the only one who has not so good days!
Thanks for watching!
Cool locomotive
Very cool!