Any predictions on what this thing will do 0-60 now? Also, make sure to check out FlexiSpot's C7 ergonomic chair at bit.ly/4giaCFd and join their Black Friday sale now! It's the best time to treat yourself a good chair!
Typically when it becomes a higher and exhaust I end up seeing this exhaust that has tiny cups inside of it and when the exhaust flows through the tops of those cups it helps to fight drone
Not sure how much it’ll matter but I think you want the Helmholtz facing towards the back of the car so sound waves propagate into it easily and then bounce out back towards the engine
@@nickr840 well not facing the front, he meant it was more towards the front than you would want. He had it before the split on the y-pipe when he may have gotten better results if he put it near the mufflers like how they usually come off the shelf
I had a similar issue with rasp at 3-4k rpm on my v6 accord. Sounded fine until I removed the precats and them it sounded terrible. Switching to a different j pipe completely fixed it. Your merge pipe not being equal length could be causing it, also the way that the 2 sides merge can make a big difference, that’s the main difference between the j pipe I swapped to. Both were equal length, but something about the way the poppies merged on the first j pipe was dousing that terrible rasp. Both were aftermarket
The unequal length y pipe defiantly is part of the issue. You can make a unequal length y pipe sound good but you have to size the muffler and resonator right. But you will always have slight rasp on decel. I have the same issue on my v6 tiburon I turboed. The y pipe is unequal length it sounds amazing on accel . But on heavy decel it rasp like crazy on light decel it's not too bad. But it's the y pipe. I'm going to try a vibrant ultra quite resonator next and a tomei.
Best regards from Brazil 🇧🇷 I’m following your trip with this car. I have the same car but the 4Door version, 3.0 ex. Such a great car, I’m super happy to know that’s a enthusiast guys that still see this car with a potential. Keeping with this series of videos. (Sorry for my English is not the best 😂)
Caleb, 2GR-FE 3.5L v6 swapped mr2’s have the same decel rasp issue. We call it the 2gr fart. A high flow cat really removes most of it, as well as having no toxic smells when driving. They don’t remove more than 1-2% power as well. Definitely worth looking into. I use a magnaflow iron core 3” high flow cat personally on my v6 mr2 and the decel fart is nearly gone.
@@_Gingium_or redo the y pipe . Unequal length y pipe on v6 can cause a weird rasp on decel. I have the a similar issue on my v6 turbo tiburon, it has a Unequal length y pipe too. It think it's the fact that you're hearing the exhaust gases at so much of a lower speed and velocity. To the point you hear the uneven sound of the exhaust pulses. It's even more prevalent on your car because the single exhaust port vs a header where the exhaust can gas gains more speed, running down the header primary before being dumped into the y pipe.
If you want a crazy time saving tool recommendation: hydraulic knockout hole punch. Seriously though, buy some cheap super high flow cats and use them as mufflers, or just one and Y the pipe.
I had a custom exhaust installed when I got new cats (mine were clogged after 17 years) and I deleted all the resonators and just went straight pipe to two GReddy mufflers. Sounds amazing, even during decel, no raspiness at all.
the setup is super nice. exhaust can be tricky. just let the exhaust get super hot a few times to see what it sounds like. i know everytime ive done mine its gotten a little louder after 300 miles or so
Tirestreets is one of the few sponsors that puts out an awesome product! Loved their accelera tires when I had my mazdaspeed3! Great prices and shipping!
I feel heard after seeing that control arm dancing in the wheel well 😂😂 now this is a proper V6. The ride is going to be a little more harsh but this is a track beast.
Swap out the rear mufflers from flow through to chamber mufflers. That helps most time as universal "mufflers" are only flow through models not chamber ones.
Chambered mufflers flow like garbage, though. Even when oversized. A better tip would be to have some bare pipe between the axle-back mufflers and the tips. Air coming out of the muffler is turbulent due to the perforations and such, and whenever you have that turbulence hitting open air, it can present as a rasp. The rule of thumb is at least 12" of pipe between any mufflers and any exits or tips.
Wheel hop = engine mounts! I promise it will be one of the best mods you have done becasue unintuitively it improves handling too! Such a slept on mod.
To get the sound you're after from this engine, I'd be willing to bet on a high flow cat, one vibrant ultra quiet resonator, then two small bottle resonators instead of the rear mufflers. The catless setup with the cylindical resonator is likely missing the frequencies you're trying to eliminate, and the mufflers are then reducing the volume without helping further. Oval resonators like the UQR tend to be better at absorbing those raspy frequencies, and can be paired with much smaller mufflers to retain the volume. I'd also try to look at some turbo VQ exhaust setups and take some notes, as people manage to make them sound buttery smooth with a turbo.
Now that I think of it, I've never seen a breakdown of wheel alignment numbers ever on RUclips. Should probably try to find more build channels... I'm really interested in the numbers and what kind of compromises one has to make for stuff like good fitment etc.
I’ve seen a lot of people add Helmholtz near the rear by the mufflers, not only do they look sick a lot of the Z’s do it and it helps tremendously.. I’d definitely flip the one you have in your mid pipe around tho.
As someone who did some exhaust to modified vw, I have a stock exhaust myself with a cutout. I plan on doing myself a full exhaust but I'm gonna make a muffler full with deadning material and baffled in it, and a valve for a straight throu. The only mufflers that actually I saw working where where the enterance and exist were at 90 degrees and the mufflers are heavy so it has some material in them to deaden the sound
😊 Rear sway bar upgrade is singlehandedly the best money/performance mod you can get the ride is just way better.. The factory sway bar is just criminally thin...
Subframe bushings, motor mounts, and a solid bar tying together the two front lca’s can help with wheel hop and torque steer as well. Speaking as a focus st owner 😂
Quick question instead of having gone with that tire could you not have gone with wider tires at the front so like 265 or 275 and stayed with all seasons so you could still use it throughout like the really really bad seasons and secondly you'd be able to save on tires unless those performance tires ain't too expensive because 200 tread wear like it's not really a long lasting tire
Another one in the back of your car please put like a spare fuse on the side and stuff so you can remove the bumper for those in case moments like some backup tools to remove the bumper and then a new fuse just so it sits there at least then you know you've got it at all times
superpro is a great choice i track my j32 swapped 03 coupe and the poly bushings made a huge difference in handling. Ive also swapped in a tl type s diff it helps a lot the car drives like shit without it especially if it makes more than the 240 stock power
tip on how to delete drone on any car: 100/200 cell cat and central silencer. If the drone is bad just weld a mesh at the entry of the silencer or buy a non pass thru one with baffels or inserts. Did this with cats and muffler on my old VR6 and it sounded INSANE with no drone at all, multiple shops told me this setup is the best for sound and performance, with turbo engines should work even better having a bit more of back pressure.
Maybe try some stop squeak on the backs of the brake pads, can get it at any parts store It’s basically a spray adhesive to remove pad squeak, that also sell it in tube form that’s more like a caulk/goo - same thing tho, put it on the back of the pads and it helps quiet them
I blame the thinness for the rasp. When i redone my exhaust on my d series civic it had a cheap stainless then i splurged on some thick 2 inch alu steel and a glasspack. Sounded way better.
Hey, good work on the 24mm Progress… crazy how much difference they make. You could try welding back in the smaller resonator you just took out…staged. 2x resonator. You can also step the collectors before the merge. The step location needs to be calculated. If you’re unfamiliar with David Vizard, hes got a yt channel. He’s probably in his mid 80’s and hotrod royalty. He has videos on the subject, any many more things that actually matter. Good work dude, the build is sick.
Honda V6s with the headifolds are impossible to make sound good. Best luck I had was a single fart can with 2 resonators, but still only sounded good at WOT. Induction noise is primo though. I’d make the exhaust quiet so you can hear the induction.
My 2 j series builds kicked my ass on exhaust sound note for along time what finally fixed it was a full 3 n 3.5 exhaust with a titanium resi and one build I have valvetronic mufflers other I did the old school greddy Evo 2 mufflers but yea both are on point now finally
I totally relate to that rasp problem. I've been chasing a really bad rasp in my rx8 between 3.5-4.5k rpm. I've added a resonator, changed piping size, all sorts of things but it's still there. I'm starting to think that maybe the greddy cat back is going bad and I'll need to replace it. Big bummer !
@_Gingium_ *((Help for your rasp situation, three more paragraphs coming in an edit))* It's definitely the combination of the integrated manifold (single port) heads and the fact that your up-pipes are unequal in length. Swap it with some J32 3 port heads, then make some equal length 3-1, stepped shorty headers(1-5/8 up to 1-3/4 or 1-3/4 up to 1-7/8), then run those into an equal length, stepped (2" to 2.25"), 2-1 up pipe with the single side being whatever the turbo needs (presumably 2.5 or 2.75") and it'll change your entire life. All of the steps in the header system should be a 1/2 the length between the valve and the collector, or in the case of the 2-1 secondaries, halfway between the previous collector and the final merge. Also, the J pipe helmholtz resonators do better the closer they are to the manifold, or in this case, the turbo downpipe. One last thing, a single 3" only supports 370hp at the crank. Given that you already have dual 2.5s for the other parts of the system, I think you should switch to a 3.5" downpipe so that the overall combo can support up to 500hp at the crank. This should free up some power, too, given how I calculate you to already be at 420-430hp at the crank and it might even let you hold 8lbs of boost to redline like you want instead of choking down from 8 to 6. If the rasp still isn't gone after all of that, another thing you can try *(and TBH you can try this now without converting to triple port heads)* is to either ape Fluid Motorunion and make yourself a megaphone resonator for the turbo-back, or ape Borla and make you a sorta pipe organ type thing where you convert the single pipe into multiple smaller pipes in order to get it to resonate at different frequencies internally. So basically, you'd put a 2-1, 3-1, or 4-1 collector at either end to go from your single to the smaller stuff, and as for the diameter of the smaller stuff you just divide by the square root of the amount of pipes you're using. So if you turn a single 3.5 into 3 pipes for this resonant center section, those three would need to be 2" diameter each. If you wanted 4 pipes conversion for a 3.5" center section, well the square root of 4 is 2, so 3.5/2 is 1.75. And obviously, since I already said dual 2.5 matches with single 3.5, if you wanted to split the center section into only two pipes to help resonance, you'd do it with two 2.5" pipes. One last thing as a best practice; you want at least 12" of bare tube between any mufflers and the exhaust tips. The air coming out of a muffler is turbulent due to the perforated tube and/or baffling, and if you have that turbulence exiting straight out to open air or directly into a tip, it's more likely to SOUND turbulent once it reaches your ear.
When it comes to batteries, have you looked at anti-gravity batteries? They're a little more expensive but you get all of the cold cranking amps from a large battery with like a quarter of the weight
Hope you can get the wheel hop under control! My GK Fit wheel hops bad with stock power, but I don’t want the swap out the bushings necessary to cull it because the NVH (V specifically) is already annoying enough in that car.
J pipe doesnt effect rasp only drone. I told you exactly what to do, basically that vibrant but longer it wouldnt effect volume much just rasp and drone the benefit of a glass pack is its gonna be chill at idle and low RPM then basically be a straight pipe at WOT i used 2 of those vibrants you had on my straight pipe 5.0 it went from unbearable and raspy to easily drivable but still loud as hell on acceleration. A v6 is always gonna have a bit of rasp its a v6 they just have that quality
Hey gingium, u can try installing the BK1 brembo genesis coupe calipers. They are direct bolt on for the 8th gen accord so it should also fit the 7th gen.
I feel like some different mufflers would make it sound better. There's a chance you might need to add another resonator closer to the mufflers as well
![GT-R Powered 240Z [Dyno Disaster]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/844PvOyhv0g/mqdefault.jpg)
![GT-R Powered 240Z [Dyno Disaster]](/img/tr.png)
Any predictions on what this thing will do 0-60 now? Also, make sure to check out FlexiSpot's C7 ergonomic chair at bit.ly/4giaCFd and join their Black Friday sale now! It's the best time to treat yourself a good chair!
Typically when it becomes a higher and exhaust I end up seeing this exhaust that has tiny cups inside of it and when the exhaust flows through the tops of those cups it helps to fight drone
Be careful those front lower control arms would always rip out on me but, they were stock so hopefully the new ones stop tht
5.8 seconds 0-60 guess
4.4 seconds
Just under 5, 4.8. But that quarter will have some serious trap speed
Not sure how much it’ll matter but I think you want the Helmholtz facing towards the back of the car so sound waves propagate into it easily and then bounce out back towards the engine
This is correct , I hope he sees it
he had it facing the front???? wtf lmao
@@nickr840 well not facing the front, he meant it was more towards the front than you would want. He had it before the split on the y-pipe when he may have gotten better results if he put it near the mufflers like how they usually come off the shelf
yes. has to be facing back, and only reduces drone, not raspiness
It's not even a Helmholtz, he did a quarter-wave resonator. Totally different animal
This build is the definition of OEM+. It really feels like Honda could've (and should've) made this thing. I'm hype to see it in action!
7th gen accord type-r basically. I’d love to be able to have my 6-6 modified like this
@@jv6miata euro R because, accord lol
lol this is nothing like oem+ my guy and if honda would have made this it would have been super expensive look at the tlx type s
Facts. It's like he's building an accord si or type r
If they made a car like this IRL it would have had a 4 cylinder turbo not a V6 turbo.
Not every car needs to be loud. I’d rather good quiet than bad loud.
Yep
If the high school kids near my home could only read this before dumping daddy's money into making their cars loud.
Really. Cars only need to be loud enough that you can nail your shift points and aren't cruising around at 3000+rpm wasting gas for no reason.
I had a similar issue with rasp at 3-4k rpm on my v6 accord. Sounded fine until I removed the precats and them it sounded terrible. Switching to a different j pipe completely fixed it. Your merge pipe not being equal length could be causing it, also the way that the 2 sides merge can make a big difference, that’s the main difference between the j pipe I swapped to. Both were equal length, but something about the way the poppies merged on the first j pipe was dousing that terrible rasp. Both were aftermarket
Which one did you swap to?
The unequal length y pipe defiantly is part of the issue. You can make a unequal length y pipe sound good but you have to size the muffler and resonator right. But you will always have slight rasp on decel. I have the same issue on my v6 tiburon I turboed. The y pipe is unequal length it sounds amazing on accel . But on heavy decel it rasp like crazy on light decel it's not too bad. But it's the y pipe. I'm going to try a vibrant ultra quite resonator next and a tomei.
Why don't you start selling turbo kits for special cars like these? Better than selling food like other influencers right! 😀
Damn straight I’m in the process of doing this rn too would be a million times easier if I could just buy the exhaust manifolds
If he finds the right person to fund the business, I believe he would do so. No questions asked. I would buy it myself if he did
@@jaredmanuel3774 exactly!
You need a vibrant ultra quiet resonator. 100% fixed any problems I’ve had with any exhaust ever.
Thats what I thought he was getting when he said a bigger resonator
The car will always wheel hop because the front subframe is mounted on bushings. Get some subframe bushing inserts or solid bushings.
Best regards from Brazil 🇧🇷
I’m following your trip with this car. I have the same car but the 4Door version, 3.0 ex. Such a great car, I’m super happy to know that’s a enthusiast guys that still see this car with a potential. Keeping with this series of videos.
(Sorry for my English is not the best 😂)
You should start leaving ALL the links to the parts you use incase someone wants to use those same parts for there project
You should probably get quality tires like the ps4s or even v730s. I don’t understand why you keep buying Chinese tires
1:32 Welp it's no longer a daily LMAO
The daily was secretly never a daily🤣 it always happens
The back right side of that steering wheel drives me insane. Love the way the car is turning out tho!
Caleb, 2GR-FE 3.5L v6 swapped mr2’s have the same decel rasp issue. We call it the 2gr fart. A high flow cat really removes most of it, as well as having no toxic smells when driving. They don’t remove more than 1-2% power as well. Definitely worth looking into. I use a magnaflow iron core 3” high flow cat personally on my v6 mr2 and the decel fart is nearly gone.
Put a Cat back in and it will change the sound and won´t smell as bad.
You are probably right. Might need a new tune tho
@@_Gingium_ nothing you can´t handle😉.
@@_Gingium_or redo the y pipe . Unequal length y pipe on v6 can cause a weird rasp on decel. I have the a similar issue on my v6 turbo tiburon, it has a Unequal length y pipe too. It think it's the fact that you're hearing the exhaust gases at so much of a lower speed and velocity. To the point you hear the uneven sound of the exhaust pulses. It's even more prevalent on your car because the single exhaust port vs a header where the exhaust can gas gains more speed, running down the header primary before being dumped into the y pipe.
If you want a crazy time saving tool recommendation: hydraulic knockout hole punch.
Seriously though, buy some cheap super high flow cats and use them as mufflers, or just one and Y the pipe.
You're VERY entertaining and your editing is simply fantastic! I look forward to more!
very impressed that you went as far as using audacity to pick up the exact frequency. I applaud you brother.
i prefer cherry bomb resonators when it comes to eliminating drone but keeping volume
Now all is missing is an S1 all-wheel-drive kit
I don’t believe there are many awd v6 transmissions except the last gen TL
Yep correct and for American market those are really rare.
@@argen809J to K adapter plate
The Acura TL awd system is incredibly hard to integrate into other/smaller cars
@@pob_car yeah has to do with the sensors for the torque vectoring
VTEC YO‼
Im sorry i cant ignore the voice crack at 4:36😂😂😂
“Installed!”🤣
😭
My favorite build right now on RUclips. Keep it up!
Fluid motor union exhausts are quite impressive with his megaphone design.
I had a custom exhaust installed when I got new cats (mine were clogged after 17 years) and I deleted all the resonators and just went straight pipe to two GReddy mufflers. Sounds amazing, even during decel, no raspiness at all.
I also put in a rear tie bar years ago. I’d love to upgrade the rear sway bar at some point, but the rear tie bar made a big difference.
I recommend single exit exhaust tbf it would sound quite nice
yea 3" single all the way back , plus a j37 intake mani and throttle body
Single exit ftw, I think a single exit would be easier for him to get a smoother sound from it
Love how this series is progressing 🔑
Gingium, we need a video music playlist from you please!
the setup is super nice. exhaust can be tricky. just let the exhaust get super hot a few times to see what it sounds like. i know everytime ive done mine its gotten a little louder after 300 miles or so
Tirestreets is one of the few sponsors that puts out an awesome product! Loved their accelera tires when I had my mazdaspeed3! Great prices and shipping!
You gave it the meats! I loved the stretched tires and super low tucked cars when I was younger… now I am not young lol
27:26
So real. Cars are a pain in the ass sometimes
24:59 definitely made me happy loll, great pull
Cleanest Accord build
I feel heard after seeing that control arm dancing in the wheel well 😂😂 now this is a proper V6. The ride is going to be a little more harsh but this is a track beast.
Summer's over in Georgia ging and its not comin back for a while. Think about the tires.
Swap out the rear mufflers from flow through to chamber mufflers. That helps most time as universal "mufflers" are only flow through models not chamber ones.
Chambered mufflers flow like garbage, though. Even when oversized. A better tip would be to have some bare pipe between the axle-back mufflers and the tips. Air coming out of the muffler is turbulent due to the perforations and such, and whenever you have that turbulence hitting open air, it can present as a rasp. The rule of thumb is at least 12" of pipe between any mufflers and any exits or tips.
That little pipe you made 30” is for drone! We have an anti drone res delete for some models in that style!
Im loving this accord
Wheel hop = engine mounts! I promise it will be one of the best mods you have done becasue unintuitively it improves handling too! Such a slept on mod.
To get the sound you're after from this engine, I'd be willing to bet on a high flow cat, one vibrant ultra quiet resonator, then two small bottle resonators instead of the rear mufflers.
The catless setup with the cylindical resonator is likely missing the frequencies you're trying to eliminate, and the mufflers are then reducing the volume without helping further. Oval resonators like the UQR tend to be better at absorbing those raspy frequencies, and can be paired with much smaller mufflers to retain the volume. I'd also try to look at some turbo VQ exhaust setups and take some notes, as people manage to make them sound buttery smooth with a turbo.
Now that I think of it, I've never seen a breakdown of wheel alignment numbers ever on RUclips. Should probably try to find more build channels... I'm really interested in the numbers and what kind of compromises one has to make for stuff like good fitment etc.
I’ve seen a lot of people add Helmholtz near the rear by the mufflers, not only do they look sick a lot of the Z’s do it and it helps tremendously.. I’d definitely flip the one you have in your mid pipe around tho.
As someone who did some exhaust to modified vw, I have a stock exhaust myself with a cutout. I plan on doing myself a full exhaust but I'm gonna make a muffler full with deadning material and baffled in it, and a valve for a straight throu. The only mufflers that actually I saw working where where the enterance and exist were at 90 degrees and the mufflers are heavy so it has some material in them to deaden the sound
Great job! Your videos are always so high quality and interesting! 😛💕
13:05 every time I see him, I remember Skaara from Stargate :D
lol
😊 Rear sway bar upgrade is singlehandedly the best money/performance mod you can get the ride is just way better.. The factory sway bar is just criminally thin...
Love the Honda builds. My S2000 has one pipe like that on the stock exhaust.
Your videos are always so informative and interesting! Thank you for that! 💖😘
Subframe bushings, motor mounts, and a solid bar tying together the two front lca’s can help with wheel hop and torque steer as well. Speaking as a focus st owner 😂
It actually sounds 10x better now with the bigger resonator and yes the j-pipe is on backwards
Love the mcm flag man, they're a humble titan in the industry
love this series
Hell Yeah happy Sunday 😊
Quick question instead of having gone with that tire could you not have gone with wider tires at the front so like 265 or 275 and stayed with all seasons so you could still use it throughout like the really really bad seasons and secondly you'd be able to save on tires unless those performance tires ain't too expensive because 200 tread wear like it's not really a long lasting tire
you sounded like the joker or batman at 18:03 HAHAHAHAH
Another one in the back of your car please put like a spare fuse on the side and stuff so you can remove the bumper for those in case moments like some backup tools to remove the bumper and then a new fuse just so it sits there at least then you know you've got it at all times
3 inch single is what makes this thing sing
Cleeeean build🔥🔥🔥
I was waiting for you to add a ultra quiet resonator, best resonators on the market
Was the helmholts Resonator pointed in the right direction? If it was backwards, it could have been a dump...
superpro is a great choice i track my j32 swapped 03 coupe and the poly bushings made a huge difference in handling. Ive also swapped in a tl type s diff it helps a lot the car drives like shit without it especially if it makes more than the 240 stock power
tip on how to delete drone on any car: 100/200 cell cat and central silencer. If the drone is bad just weld a mesh at the entry of the silencer or buy a non pass thru one with baffels or inserts.
Did this with cats and muffler on my old VR6 and it sounded INSANE with no drone at all, multiple shops told me this setup is the best for sound and performance, with turbo engines should work even better having a bit more of back pressure.
You should take it to Fluid MotorUnion. It would be sick to see what they can do with a custom exhaust.
Maybe try some stop squeak on the backs of the brake pads, can get it at any parts store
It’s basically a spray adhesive to remove pad squeak, that also sell it in tube form that’s more like a caulk/goo - same thing tho, put it on the back of the pads and it helps quiet them
For the battery positive cable you can use a bmw cable, because it has a very neat cap.
I blame the thinness for the rasp. When i redone my exhaust on my d series civic it had a cheap stainless then i splurged on some thick 2 inch alu steel and a glasspack. Sounded way better.
Hey, good work on the 24mm Progress… crazy how much difference they make. You could try welding back in the smaller resonator you just took out…staged. 2x resonator. You can also step the collectors before the merge. The step location needs to be calculated. If you’re unfamiliar with David Vizard, hes got a yt channel. He’s probably in his mid 80’s and hotrod royalty. He has videos on the subject, any many more things that actually matter. Good work dude, the build is sick.
Also, it’s just dawned on me how much you probably hated the stepped collector suggestion…given this means everything behind I/D would need to grow
Honda V6s with the headifolds are impossible to make sound good. Best luck I had was a single fart can with 2 resonators, but still only sounded good at WOT. Induction noise is primo though. I’d make the exhaust quiet so you can hear the induction.
My 2 j series builds kicked my ass on exhaust sound note for along time what finally fixed it was a full 3 n 3.5 exhaust with a titanium resi and one build I have valvetronic mufflers other I did the old school greddy Evo 2 mufflers but yea both are on point now finally
You should put some cams in it
Cammed + boosted = no low end power for something like this. On a daily that would suck.
The man is building an Accord Type R
Ready to enter the Honda Accord giveaway !
All I hear is Borat going "it's a very nice!!!!!"
I totally relate to that rasp problem. I've been chasing a really bad rasp in my rx8 between 3.5-4.5k rpm. I've added a resonator, changed piping size, all sorts of things but it's still there. I'm starting to think that maybe the greddy cat back is going bad and I'll need to replace it. Big bummer !
yo this channel has grown a bunch in 2024!
@_Gingium_ *((Help for your rasp situation, three more paragraphs coming in an edit))*
It's definitely the combination of the integrated manifold (single port) heads and the fact that your up-pipes are unequal in length. Swap it with some J32 3 port heads, then make some equal length 3-1, stepped shorty headers(1-5/8 up to 1-3/4 or 1-3/4 up to 1-7/8), then run those into an equal length, stepped (2" to 2.25"), 2-1 up pipe with the single side being whatever the turbo needs (presumably 2.5 or 2.75") and it'll change your entire life. All of the steps in the header system should be a 1/2 the length between the valve and the collector, or in the case of the 2-1 secondaries, halfway between the previous collector and the final merge.
Also, the J pipe helmholtz resonators do better the closer they are to the manifold, or in this case, the turbo downpipe. One last thing, a single 3" only supports 370hp at the crank. Given that you already have dual 2.5s for the other parts of the system, I think you should switch to a 3.5" downpipe so that the overall combo can support up to 500hp at the crank. This should free up some power, too, given how I calculate you to already be at 420-430hp at the crank and it might even let you hold 8lbs of boost to redline like you want instead of choking down from 8 to 6.
If the rasp still isn't gone after all of that, another thing you can try *(and TBH you can try this now without converting to triple port heads)* is to either ape Fluid Motorunion and make yourself a megaphone resonator for the turbo-back, or ape Borla and make you a sorta pipe organ type thing where you convert the single pipe into multiple smaller pipes in order to get it to resonate at different frequencies internally. So basically, you'd put a 2-1, 3-1, or 4-1 collector at either end to go from your single to the smaller stuff, and as for the diameter of the smaller stuff you just divide by the square root of the amount of pipes you're using.
So if you turn a single 3.5 into 3 pipes for this resonant center section, those three would need to be 2" diameter each. If you wanted 4 pipes conversion for a 3.5" center section, well the square root of 4 is 2, so 3.5/2 is 1.75. And obviously, since I already said dual 2.5 matches with single 3.5, if you wanted to split the center section into only two pipes to help resonance, you'd do it with two 2.5" pipes. One last thing as a best practice; you want at least 12" of bare tube between any mufflers and the exhaust tips. The air coming out of a muffler is turbulent due to the perforated tube and/or baffling, and if you have that turbulence exiting straight out to open air or directly into a tip, it's more likely to SOUND turbulent once it reaches your ear.
When it comes to batteries, have you looked at anti-gravity batteries? They're a little more expensive but you get all of the cold cranking amps from a large battery with like a quarter of the weight
didn't realize the vide is almost 30 mins long until you actually said it... :)
This would hurt some serious feelings at yellobelly dragstrip :D
My life might be going to shambles but it’s a little better when gingium drops
Damn this car is awesome. I want it
Try same lenght exit from the headers to the turbo ("J-pipe")
The rough sound is from the unequal length exhaust pipes before the turbo
Helmholz should help with drone, the resonator would help with rasp......commented and then he says that exactly.
awesome vid ❤
Caleb check out some of fluid motor unions videos on exhausts. They have loads of tips to help with rasp etc
Just do a bumper exit 😎, modern problems require modern solutions
needs a 3" single all the way back , plus a j37 intake mani and throttle body
22:30 "it doesn't tickle that special part"
W build
Hope you can get the wheel hop under control! My GK Fit wheel hops bad with stock power, but I don’t want the swap out the bushings necessary to cull it because the NVH (V specifically) is already annoying enough in that car.
🔥🔥🔥
J pipe doesnt effect rasp only drone. I told you exactly what to do, basically that vibrant but longer it wouldnt effect volume much just rasp and drone the benefit of a glass pack is its gonna be chill at idle and low RPM then basically be a straight pipe at WOT i used 2 of those vibrants you had on my straight pipe 5.0 it went from unbearable and raspy to easily drivable but still loud as hell on acceleration. A v6 is always gonna have a bit of rasp its a v6 they just have that quality
Helmholtz was backwards bro... Sounds great with the larger resonator! Different cars can sound different lol you have plenty of vehicles.
I hope this is going to be a give-a-way car !! ??
Hey gingium, u can try installing the BK1 brembo genesis coupe calipers. They are direct bolt on for the 8th gen accord so it should also fit the 7th gen.
Put a spark plug in the end of the block off plate😂😂
Lollllll genius 😂
Helmholtz is facing the direction. Also swap the resonator for a vibrant ultra quiet
I feel like some different mufflers would make it sound better. There's a chance you might need to add another resonator closer to the mufflers as well