OIL PUMP REPLACEMENT JEEP Wrangler WITH A HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP by MELLING
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- JEEP OIL PUMP REPLACEMENT WITH A HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP by MELLING. Start to finish average joe frame off restoration of a 2000 jeep tj with 4.0l and 5 speed standard transmission.
If you have any question check out my email in the about section .
If you want to send something to help with the project or anything else PO is in the about section... 
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Thanks for the video ! You answered some questions I had.
Thanks for watching and if you have anymore questions let me know.. Also put oil pan on and no problems but again My new pan had no baffle like stock did.
Liked the video. Did the same to mine. 99 TJ 230000 miles, still runs like a top and good oil pressure.
Thats good to hear
Great video!!
Thanks for watching and hopefully it helps you out .
I think this fella
Is legit…
I did it on my jeep 4.0l at 178,000 and it lasted to 401,611 miles and head gasket gave out between pistons 3 and 4 otherwise still ran! I am rebuilding it again crank stays at stock specs I feel it was due to HVS oil pump
“I wish Mellings would send an oil pump with the pickup tube already connected? Yes, bc that would make my life a whole lot fucking easier…”
That’s the quote of all time right there and I know this from my experience right now. Trying to get the pickup tube inserted. Is that an print I see, bc mine didn’t come with an o-ring
No O-ring in box thats why I used gasket material on it. The black stuff under crimp you see is gasket material. Its was big pain in the ass
Oil pressure is determined by the health of your bearings. That's why high mileage engines gradually lose oil pressure. Mileage wears down the bearings creating a larger gap between the mating surfaces thereby reducing pressure. Using a high-volume oil pump will move more oil and may extend the engine's life a bit but it is not a solution to the wear on your bearings.
The solution to a low oil pressure diagnosis is to rebuild the engine.
I agree with that above statements on bearing gaps and cause of oil pressure dropping ( and Think I said that in the video) I disagree on jumping to rebuild right away . Oil pressure of 10 psi per 1000 is acceptable for this motor 4.0l (I'm running 20 at ideal and over 40 at slow speed ). The purpose of the pump is to move more oil to help with wear ,oil pressure and temperature during high stress ( Which is all the reasons I put it in) . Jeeps TJ before 2003 actually showed true oil pressure but because ppl complained to dealers about extreme movement of oil pressure IE between 20 -50 psi they reprogramed it. So basically later TJ have idiot lights with numbers and thats why the gauge sits in the middle ... Thank you for your comments
I disagree! If you think about it the machined surfaces in an engine are supposed to be riding on a thin sheet of oil and NOT on the bearing surfaces. If you don't have good oil coverage then the bearings begin to make contact with the opposite surface and wear. With a high volume pump installed in an engine with bearing surfaces that are not totally damaged it could extend engine life CONSIDERABLY. Of course if the bearings are worn too much, they call that a KNOCK.😉
I'm replacing the rod bearings also at the same time interested in where did you get your pan? I like a quality pan dorman doesn't look like it's set go to quality
Sorry.. Didn't see message until today
How you feel about 7011 1/8” rods to weld my frame kit on? They burn hotter to me than 6013’s which I usually use since my welding is not at pro level, like your attitude And info
Honestly I'm not sure what to tell you because i don't stick weld but I can tell you on mig(120 not 240) using .035 wire I had set 3/4 out put to get penetration .. I think hotter is better but be carful because sometimes your frame metal is not as thick so you can blow true. . I clamped everything and then did heavy tack welds just to check everthing out .. Good luck on your project and just take your time . OH make sure to square off your frame if changing your back arms 2.....
@@rustyjeep9783 Yeah I’ll be doing those next time my center bolts on crossmember are about to let go so I figured doing it first is more important, I’m hoping to be able to take out body mount bolts and raise it up a couple inches so I can weld with rods my body has zero rust just bottom of frame and usual rear spots. Thanks
A 7018 rod would work better. It fills nice. Gives a nicer weld.
You think that new oil pump will fix my loss of pressure at idle? I don't want to put new bearings in the bottom end, if that's the issue. But not as much as I don't want to put another engine in. Just hit 300k an would like to keep truckin with the original equipment
I've read and saw it help with high milage lower oil pressure at idle issues. This was a big topic in jeep forums because many ppl said 20 psi (So if your around 20 your fine ) is ok at idle . growing up with chevy motors I real like to see oil psi higher but IF I were you Id look up and read some of the old forums . I ran and may run a 2 oil filter system. Running a 2 oil filter system cause lower oil pressure at start up and the high pressure from the pump helped me before ..
Yes
Hey brother I have one more question,, how do you feel about putting the jack stands on the axles instead of the body mounts? And why does everyone else do it is it because they have a lift? I’m fixing to start on my mid sections this week thanks
I Think a lot of ppl are afraid of the frame bending depending on how high you cut . If Talking about a actual car lift I've seen that video and he's doing it to straighten the frame because it sagging ... If you'r doing it in your driveway axle is okay but like i said before make sure everything is squared and straight .... Also if you'r watching the videos i think you are he's literally taking the cut line up so high where it could bend .. Im not a professional but i was not happy about cutting that high up the frame so i cut half way up ( no rust was left)and then caped it . if you'r not cutting all the way up again I think the axle is fine thats what i did ... You got this brother just take your time ...
@@rustyjeep9783 Thanks man I definitely am not cutting that high up my rust is minimum I thank you so much for that keep on rockin bud wish you were my neighbor we would raise some hell!
No problem and feel free to ask anything else .. Yea we could raise some hell !!! My motor should be ready in dec to start with open headers of course lol.. should be interesting what my neighbors will say...
@@rustyjeep9783 Hey man I started on it today what a bitch none of the crossmember bolts would come out, mine is in great shape only problem I’ll have is drivers side using a stick welder on the inside. I may have to get a buddy to come over and mig it but I’ll have everything else done Thanks I gave you a shout for the help ruclips.net/video/v-ndmV0jw4M/видео.html
thanks for the shout out sorry i missed post I didn't get notified on reply .. I have a email in about section if you every have a question or suggestions. Again sorry about slow reply I really try to reply back to everyone
Lol you only need a high flow oil pump if your building a high performance engine..high oil pumps and a normal everyday drive is pointless it kills power
ruclips.net/video/D-Ku9efaZTk/видео.html
I disagree with you but thanks for the comment . You must of missed the video where I'm talking about tunning it and the chance of putting NOS on it ..
@@rustyjeep9783 lmaoI rather take advice from a real car builder who been doing for over 35 years and built drag cars.noz in a inline six lmao it won't even hold up to it hahaha what a joke.
@@timschultz995 35 years building race cars my ass..
@@ujayet you don't know shit...stop giving bad advice....
Don't take this guys advice.dosent even know what he's talking about .high flow means more pressure to push more oil throw the engine ports...go watch uncles tony garage.hes a real engine builder and know what he's talking about .his guy don't
I enjoy all comments even if you'r wrong . Melling actually makes a high pressure pumps (avg 75 80) which has a bigger spring stock gear which is different then high flow( avg 65 70 ) which has a bigger gear and slightly bigger spring then stock BUT DON'T BELIVE ME . Go to Melling YT channel and they explain the difference . I hope this was helpful . PS I like tony's channel.....
APPARENTLY you watched Uncle Tony's Garage but you weren't paying attention. There is a big difference between Volume and Pressure. More volume will definitely help an older engine with worn bearings and the byproduct is more pressure, although maybe not a lot. But every oil pump has the capability of producing VERY high pressure by increasing the relief valve spring pressure. Increasing the oil pressure on an old engine is not recommended because you can push the oil so hard it can get under the worn bearing and float them, then they will spin with the oil and NEW ENGINE TIME!