JEEP XJ OIL PAN - REAR MAIN SEAL - CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - OIL PUMP UPGRADE - PICK UP REPLACEMENT
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- While I was under Wrecked J during the lift I had a great oppertunity to change out the cracked oil pan... While I was changing the oil pain, I replaced the rear main seal, and of coarse, I just had to upgrade the oil pump! #Jeep #Cherokee #XJ #lifted Jeep #oilpan #rearmainseal
Feel free to use the links to all the products in the description.
INSIDE THE OIL PAN
JEEP XJ OIL PAN - amzn.to/3xtQ34m
FEL-PRO OIL PAN GASKET - amzn.to/3BJQief
FEL-PRO 40183 Rear Main Seal (2000-2001) - amzn.to/3xrArhX
FEL-PRO 40612 Rear Main Seal (1997-1999) - amzn.to/3U70FQq
FEL-PRO TIMING COVER GASKET - amzn.to/3BJwXd0
MELLING OIL PUMP - amzn.to/3BJRo9R
LIFT COMPONENTS
G2 C8.25 Diff Cover - amzn.to/3CUu4au
UPPER REAR SHOCK FLAG NUT BRACKETS - amzn.to/3cHbyI3
ROUGH COUNTRY 3 INCH LIFT - amzn.to/3CAAziz
ROUGH COUNTRY TRACK BAR 0-3.5 INCHES - amzn.to/3CDkY1z
ROUGH COUNTRY SWAY BAR END LINKS - amzn.to/3wBcFZzJ
MOOG SWAY BAR BUSHINGS - amzn.to/3pW1WvG
MOOG UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS (AXLE SIDE) - amzn.to/3cpQZzs
UPPER CONTROL ARMS - amzn.to/3AvKfbx
AXLE SEALS - amzn.to/3PQ4ZjK
REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS - amzn.to/3AKMw2w
REAR SWAY BAR END LINKS - amzn.to/3wRcKzq
TOOLS USED / DAN H FAVORITE TOOLS!
DEWALT 20V Max XR Impact Driver Kit -1/4-Inch (DCF885C1) - amzn.to/3NtnPff
DEWALT 20V Max XR Impact Driver Kit -1/2-Inch (DCF899M1) - amzn.to/3NDhgGZ
GEARWRENCH SAE/Metric Ratcheting Wrench Set - amzn.to/3OQq6lU
Impact Bit 6" Socket Extensions -1/4” 3/8” 1/2” - amzn.to/3a2DN2y
Ares Fan Clutch Tool - amzn.to/3kPryIq
PRODUCTS USED
Eastwood Rust converter - amzn.to/3QPTWbD
Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer - amzn.to/3wFghR5
Rust-Oleum Semi Gloss Black - amzn.to/3RjAfZJ
Brake Clean - amzn.to/32ESfKe
Microfiber cloths - amzn.to/3o9xzS9
Permatex High Temp Gasket Maker - amzn.to/34d1otY
SeaFoam Deep Creep - amzn.to/3L6mFVP
PARTS
XJ 195 Thermostat - amzn.to/3G9Okmt
Dorman 902-306 Thermostat Housing - amzn.to/3r5gE53
Engine Coolant Temperature Temp Sensor - amzn.to/3o7cho2
XJ Clutch Fan Shroud - amzn.to/3An1E7u
2001 Jeep 4.0 timing chain part number is 53020444
FEL-PRO timing chain gasket kit - amzn.to/38XO2UC
FEL-PRO universal 4.0 water pump gasket - amzn.to/3g8lFUl
Jeep XJ OEM style water pump - amzn.to/3IQetZ9
Mopar Genuine Water Pump Heater Return Tube 53007978 - amzn.to/3IO7AYo
Dorman 56398 Engine Water Pump Inlet Tube - amzn.to/3IOf0uE
Daniel 2.20 Blessed be the name of God forever and ever for All wisdom and power are His.
Hey, what’s up, guys? I hope you enjoyed another project. Please remember that this video product is meant for entertainment purposes only and intended for people of driving age, and that is not “made for kids”. Also Please Keep in mind I am not a professional and I have no professional training so don’t try this at home. If you decide to modify or fix your own vehicle please keep it legal, roadworthy, and most importantly SAFE. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you on the next project! ✌ 
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This is the most comprehensive one I have seen so far! On my stock ride height 01, I used 2 small bottle jacks to push the front axle down for the oil pan to clear the pumpkin. It took me at least a day to think of that. There were a lot of videos on missing Axles and lifted jeeps, but nothing on stock ride height. I have shared the idea with a few people since then. Great video Dan! Thorough as always!
Glad it helped! Thanks Brother!
I was just about to post the same! Everything else is for lifted Jeeps. Thanks Dan!
Thank you for this. I don't think I would have tackled the rod bearings without you making it look so easy, and after the first one was done I had no issues. They definitely needed replacing too. Thanks again
Glad it helped!! Thank you watching! 💪
One thing to keep in mind if you're using an aftermarket oil pump. Some of the cheaper ones you buy online can have clearance issues with the crank counterweight. Had this happen where after installing it, awhile later we couldn't figure out why the crank couldn't make a full revolution. In other words, after you install an oil pump on one of these engines, check to see if you can rotate the crank a full revolution. LOL As always, awesome video Dan!
Wow! That's great to know. Thank you. I think this Melling pump is the biggest I'd go
Fantastic video. Thank you. I'm a Chevy guy, so never worked on a Jeep before. 2004 Grand Cherokee 4.0. Had to drop the pan to repair the oil drain plug. Now I just have to put the pan back in. Here goes nothing...
Thanks man!!! Glad it helped!
Love how these jeeps are so easy to work on. I've saved so much money and invested a little more time in learning on how to just do it myself. Thanks for your vids man!
Now would be a good time to do the seals and o-rings for the oil filter adaptor.
Fact!
As usual ,the best Tutorial videos anyone has ever done . Dan always takes his time to explain and gives all the in and outs .. 👍🏻🇺🇸
Thank brother! Much appreciated 👍
Excellent. This video is a must for anyone looking to attempt this job. Not an easy job. but if you're handy with a wrench...Thanks, Dan.
Thanks Brother!
Great video, sure helped me. Working on an XJ is a pain compared to my 80 Blazer! LOL I have a love hate relationship with our XJ. Love her when she runs...but man working on her is a real pain because everything is squeeeezed in there with a prybar. lol
You have made a first time engine swapper’s day so much easier man. And I actually enjoy watching the videos. Like others said super comprehensive. And great laughs along the way.
Glad you like them! I appreciate the Views!
Perfect timing Dan! I have my '01 XJ up on stands getting ready to do the same fun and exciting job!
Yahoo Jamie! Get ready for a fun one!
Thanks buddy, I’m just about to get in on this myself. The cardboard box map system is a lifesaver when you have a lot of hardware in a project.
Did a HV HP oil pump on my 2001 XJ when I did rear main seal a few years back. My oil pressure hot at idle was down to about 25 lbs. After the HV HP pump it will maintain 55 lbs hot idle all day. Cold at 3/4 throttle, it will go to 75-80 lbs. Hot it will go to 65-75 lbs. I put in Scorpion 1.7 roller rockers, it's like a new truck. You can feel the HP and Tq difference, part throttle and full throttle. I have a bigger TB, with smooth spacer and returned the rest of the stuff, ( injectors, airbox ) back to stock. Stock thermostat, factory HD radiator and 3 fan electric fan set up. My fuel milage went back up from pig rich with the cold air mods and all that other junk. The factory computer doesn't like a lot of the performance mods, especially T-Stats and injector mods.
I admire your'e attention to detail.I think that particular approach of O/haul from underneath a very good reason for engine removal. That's NOT criticism! But I AVOID laying underneath, and keep it to a minimum if i can. I must say I am Impressed by your'e Old-School perseverance and attention to detail,all the same.All the very best! A great Video.....
Thank you! Just did it all
on my Comanche, your video really helped me and made it easier to tackle these projects.
fn aya!!!! exactly what i needed this vid bad!! i developed a horrrendous tick one morning...i finally learned my RMS was leaking, and didnt know it. SO, down 2.5 qts of oil, and the rap, rap,rap started. Because the rap was the same timing as the crank, it had to be something underneath... I have yet to pull the oil pan to determine if it is a skirt fly off, or just rod bearings toast, or even non existant. RAP is noticable at all rpm's but much less at higher than 1800 rpm... replaced oil(again), but no metal flakes in previous oil, so i'm hoping for minimal scarring or cylinder damage. The things in your vid is exactly what i'm wanting to achieve once oil pan is off. I have a stock 97 4.0L w/266k orig miles on engine... guess it had to go sooner or later. I also recently replaced rocker arms and push rods, but no change in the RAP... but it does have better performance. No real nasty wear; just normal on the rockers... i would like to replace lifters as well, and i might just bite the big bullet and replace pistons only. depends on what i find after pan removal.. THANK YOU for this video. been searching pretty hard for just this type of repair....
Im a subscriber now!!!! Tedd. S.
Thank you Ted! Best of luck with the Jeep! God bless 🙏
Awesome video Dan, I now have the confidence and knowledge to not be afraid when It comes time to do this project in my 97 and 01 xj lol thanks man keep up the good work 👍
Thanks Austin!!! Be patient... These jeep projects always takes longer than expected.... Just ask my wife 🤣
Haha! I know exactly what you mean brother 😂
Your package was supposed to go out last Monday but got lost in the shuffle. So the plan is for it to get processed Sunday and go out Monday (9/19/22) via UPS. Hopefully Harry (my shipper) and I won't forget. I have this same job to do to the Bumble Jeep, along with Pinion seals (both) and the oil filter adaptor seals. Should make for a fun day. God bless and stay well.
Thanks Brother!
@@ProjectDanH So you got the springs? That's great.
I have a 1998 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 5.2 in it when I need to fix something I look at your shows thank you God bless
Thank Brother! Much appreciated
Great video, clear and precise detail that made a difficult job possible - best wishes with your project, and thanks for your help from a UK Cherokee owner!
Great job showing your crispy work Dan H.
Lol! Fresh and crispy!
Dan, this is a super Great Video! I have a slow main seal leak. I have 202,000 on my WJ and still runs good. If I pull the oil pan I should do the same and follow your work ✅🇺🇸
I’ve done this on a sr20 4 cylinder and it saved the engine I will be taking apart my 4.0 and inspect all the bearings I have a spare motor but that’s a last resort I don’t wanna do a motor swap rn
smart! only do what you need to do.. it saves time and money. lol
Instead of using rtv, you should leave a little bit of the end of the top seal sticking out so that the two seals dont meet at the same spot where the block and cap meet
Excellent tip! Great idea to offset the gap too!
Your suppose to offset the seal no more than about 3/8" then you use anerobic sealant on the machined cap ends, they tell you not to use silicone there because it can alter your bearing clearance but ppl seem to get away with it for the most part i guess as long as you have no leaks then all is good 👍
The question i cant get answered though is they give you the plastic shoehorn to avoid cutting the seal upon install but when you offset the seal there is no way to use it upon installion of the cap so your basically taking a chance of cutting the seal when you put the cap on! go figure
Excellent idea. Love it. Thank you for this. You deserve a gold star and a lollipop.
Great video…. Loved the my cousin Vinny clip,
HAHA !Glad you enjoyed it
If you get a small siringe to squirt some dawn dishwashing soap into the upper seal grove, it will slide in with one fluid motion
"cardboard map" LOL
exactly ! thanks fro sharing , that friday night special!
Thanks for the videos my friend. It has helped me a lot here in Brazil. Congratulations
Nice job Brother...That baby purrs like a kitten.💪👍👍😁😁
Lol!!! You know it brother!
After wach this video,i decide change the oil pump,but now i have too high oil pressure 65 -80 and rear main seal leak😢
Awesome video man. Really appreciate the good and helpful content. Keep em coming.
Thanks brother! Will do
Das ist ein sehr gutes Video, sehr gute Qualität der Aufnahmen und gut erklärt. Besten Dank Dan.Gruss aus der Schweiz. Heinz
THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEO 👍
Another great Dan H video!
Hurry up with that brake conversion vid😂
Thanks Brother!
you are inspirational. and got lots of patience
Thank you, God Bless!
Thank You very much.
Excelent video bro, thanks so much.
You make it look really easy
I---dentical!🥰😍🤩
Great video as always, thanks.
Thank you! LOL
This guy is the living definition of "while I'm in there" lol
Lmao... fact!
This was a very informative video thank you for sharing may God bless
Thanks for the video
Great video also I recently found out there is away to do the main bearings while ur there. Called a rolling in method where u use a carter pin to spin the top bearings out. The new one slides in and same method to put in in place is used .
I'm going to do a complete rebuild on mine using this method. You can find videos of it on RUclips. Search replacing main bearings without removing the crank.
That's definitely possible!
Thanks❤
You're welcome 😊
Awesome video thanks for sharing your knowledge
Gonna be doing a transmission gasket and filter and fluid change on my 91 XJ this week coming up. Also will be doing an oil pan gasket, rear mail seal, piston connecting rod bearings, oil pump and tube as well the following week. Then will be doing a head gasket and timing chain and gaskets and water pump and gasket and thermostat and valve cover gasket and exhaust and intake manifold gaskets. Is gonna be a big project. Going with all parts purchased from Rockauto. Some other parts too. Then transfer case fluid and both front and rear diff fluids. Exhaust system too because is missing CA CARB CAT and muffler and rear pipes too. Got the 91 XJ a year ago and haven't driven it since because a situation but now, is go time. The CARB CAT is gonna be only used during smog time, then take it off cause i dont want some low life stealing a $600 CAT. Also put a few killswitch.
What a great video. Don't understand how you stayed so jolly the whole time. How many hours did you spend on this altogether?
great job DanH
Good Vid Enjoyed Very Much!
Thank you!
9:50 gives the oil pan bolt sizes. For my own future reference.
What service manual is this ?? I’d really like to buy one
Nice job Dan! So did you have low oil pressure b4 with the old pump? Just wondering if I would have to do the same somewhat?? on my 93 ZJ 4.0
Nah, oil pressure was fine.. but i figured i might as well. lol
Thinking about doing this to my 4.7 wj, has 234k on it and needs a rear main and pan gasket AND timing chains. Might as well pop in some new bearing as I’m at it
Oh man! My 4.7 needs it too. I'm not as confident digging into the 4.7 as I am to the 4.0 lol
Hey Dan, I don't see your number for the bearing kit. Everything else fantastic dude. Keep up the good work man. If you can shoot a number for the bearing kit my way I would be eternally grateful thanks again
Hey, not sure if it's available anymore. Just search for a standard kit 👍
You didn’t have to measure and buy oversized bearings? That’s my concern with just ordering a set. My ol girl as 235k on her and a nice rod bearing tick
If your lifted 6 inches or more there’s no need take front axle out .
lol... Good to know!
👍👍👍
👍
What size bearings did you go with? Typically i think you would want to use a plasti gauge to measure what bearings are needed. But then again ive heard alot of people just slap in the standard size ones and send it.
I used standard bearings. From my experience , even with polishing some scratches off, plastiguage usually confirms standard bearings are within spec
Thanks for the video.
Did you not do the Plastigauge for rod bearings? What thickness did you use?
Good time to do rear seal. I also like Fel-Pro.
Is it still running?
I may ad magnet to oil pan.
Thanks again.
I have a question I’m doing the same, very helpful video only question is when u put the oil pump in do u turn the shaft to line up with the distributor?
The drive gear is still connected to the cam shaft so you can insert the new oil pump shaft in at any orientation. Great question!
@@ProjectDanH one more ? I’m doing it today only other thing do you take the cotter pin out of the oil pump when installed or at all?
@@ryanwest5804 no leave the pin in. All you need is the 2 13mm bolts . Don't forget the gasket!
So I finished the job and have no start but cranks I replaced the crank shaft position sensor and coil pack, I have spark from the coil but not distributor and cap and button look new.. any ideas
Now I have spark and fuel still no start replaced the cps and checked all fuses still cranks no start
What bearings did you use
Dan!!! Machined surface on that rear main cap!! No RTV, ever! You've introduced thousandths of clearance that aren't supposed to be there.
Everything is machined on the engine.. I've done it a dozens of times with no problems
Hello friend I replace the rod bearing standard size to my jeep grand Cherokee 2001. But still have noise! Please what need do now I can change of size to 0.10 mm the rod bearing? Why you think? Let me know thanks !! Greetings!!
Hey Dan, hate to change the subject but where or how to you go about getting new OEM sensors/tranny, upper engine? "Who sells them" especially for an older 93'Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo I6 4.0. Note: I don't live anywhere close to a Mopar dealer or boneyard either. As they say it's Mopar or No Car when it comes to using OEM Sensors, ect! I hope you can help me tremendously in this matter. Thx so much.
Oh man.. not sure man.. try Google searches Facebook marketplace or eBay!
Thank you for the video. I have to do a piston swap, in addition to everything you done. If I have a 3inch lift, will I still need to drop the control links?
The bearings I guess I need to specify were the bi metal aluminum or tri metal bearings
Did you have to do any kind of priming of the oil pump or just fill the pan with oil like an oil change?
Thanks to you I am going to refresh the my pops old mj, we don’t have a garage but I see you did the work out in your driveway. Did you wait for low humidity or were you not worried of moisture getting up in the engine. I worry too much
Don't worry! You'll have plenty of engine sludge in there to displace any humidity. lol
Hi Dan, What size connecting rod bearings did you use?
How long did you wait until you filled it back up with oil and started it up after you got it all back together?
Also, did you RTV just the block or did you do the pan and the block? thanks.
I am about to do this same job. I am debating if I should do my main bearings while I have it open. I am curious why you didn't do the main bearings.
Very nice! I'm about to do the same to my xj....she's got some miles, and oil pressure has dipped over time. Just curious, have you replaced mains before in a similar fashion? I've seen people spin them in with the crank still in place, but it didnt seem like yours (at least #7) looked too bad.
Any tips on extracting a broken stud on valve cover?
Weld a screw driver to it!
i need to do the pan on 95 it has 4.5 lift
You'll probably have enough clearance!
Hello sir, can I get that tork spec of the different screws for the bearings! Thank you
Connecting rod Bearing cap nuts get 33ft lbs. Some.ppl torque them in steps.. 20 25 33
I'm 0-3 in replacing the rear main. 2 different 99 xjs. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
How did u prime your oil pump
Drill on the shaft in a bucket of oil! This was a replacement pump and works on camshaft rotation, you can prime the oil pump by pulling the starter relay and cranking it over with the key. If it was a new engine build id definitely prime it in a bucket first.
Hey Dan h I have a 98 Jeep xj that is in mint condition just needs a little break work I am asking 6500 OBO!!
If you’re interested that’s cool if not can you help me sell it I live in Ky, I really do have a nice XJ everything is factory!!
@@joshuajackson8142 awesome man. Maybe TKO off-road will buy it
IIIIIDENTICAL
LoL!!
Do you not have to check the clearance on the new bearings? How do you know if you need standard or oversized before pulling the pan?
I’m also curious, just received a new pan today, before I order bearings I guess I’ll just pick standard and cross my fingers
@@cousin_JACK Doing the same
I went with standard. If it’s stock, standard is the way to go. It was easier than expected
@@cousin_JACK ordered standard. Keeping my pan and replacing oil pump and pick up with OEM.
@@swatscorner right on man, don’t bother taking out the main crank bearing to clean under it like Dan, I tried to remove the main crank bearing and I scratch it, simple wipe down on top, unless you’re replacing that too which I doubt.
Hey Dan I have a 98 cherokee I am going to install the high volume oil pump as well I would love to change connector rod bearings and rear seal as well little reluctant about bearings but I believe I can any advice
Go for it! Don't rush, make sure your crank isn't scratched up, if it looks good make sure you get standard bearings. Keep it clean!
How did you determine what size connecting rods to get? There is standard, but also under size sizes (.010”, .020”, .030”)
I am assuming Standard.
Replace bearing inserts with whatever came out . Your old inserts should have identifying markings on them to determine size replacement
Is it worth putting in a high flow oil pump when doing this job? Or just replace with the regular volume pump?
I changed my rear main seal and it leaks worse than before. Not sure where i went wrong?
Oh man. Hopefully it was inserted correctly.
@ProjectDanH I was thinking of that 🤔 I thought I put it in correctly though. I guess either way I'll have to do it again. Clearly I messed it up lol
I have bad oil pressure when my engine gets up to temp. Did changing the bearings affect your pressure? I was told to change them while I had the pan off to get better pressure
Bearings don't have much bearing on oil pressure... Change the oil pump!
Just curious, would you recommend a refresh on the engine like this, on a 96 ZJ with the 5.2? I’ve always been curious about the crank or connecting rod pistons that can be accesses with the oil pan removed.
I wouldn't mess with it unless is clunking.. if it aint broke dont fix it! lol
Trying to order everything - where did you get the bearings? Having trouble finding them for the 4.0. Thanks.
Ebay
@@ProjectDanH thanks! I think I ended up ordering from Rock Auto - but I did see them on eBay as well.
another question: how did you manage to reinstall the oil pan with the pick up tube hooked up to the new oil pump ? When you removed the oil pan, you disassembled the pick up line from the oil pump to get enough clearance.
He took the axle out when reinstalling
@@aston3079 thanks - I have a stock front axle set up - removing the starter, disconnect the sway bar link and drag link from the pitman arm should work in my case to lower the front axle and have enough clearance to remove the oil pan ?
Which oil did you used ?
I recommend for our 4.0s ROTELLA T6 full synthetic 10w30. Its hard to come by lately so any high milage 10w30 oil with zinc or zinc additive will do.
What does replacing the bearings do for you?
What made you do the connecting bearings. Was there an issue or was it since you were into it already?
I figured what the heck. lol
@@ProjectDanH gotcha. Good preventative maintenance.
What was your oil pressure at temp and idle before this?
Great job and best tutorial again ! How many miles on your engine ? Mine has 187K and I plan the connecting rod bearing-project soon. I'm expecting some major issue when removing the oil pan due to having a non lifted stock XJ - any tips here ? Also: the Mahle part no for the bearings ? - Thanks pal !
Found them on Rock Auto for my 1999: MAHLE / CLEVITE CB960A6
@@swatscorner thanks !
I have a 2001 xj with deathly low oil pressure at idle, do you think main bearings and rod bearings would heal the pig?
205k miles
yes, but If your gonna do main bearings you might as well just rebuild the whole motor
@@ProjectDanH Yeah, put in all new bearings and did almost nothing .... even added a new oil pump, now the real main seal leaks like a sieve.....
where did you get that book with torque specs?
Ebay
pulling the motor would have been better
There's a time and place for everything. This Definitely wasn't it
I just did an inframe refresh/rebuild on my 4.0 was very ezy .u should of done mains also while u was in there nice video tho
5/16×18
Why u had clearance issues with the new oil pump and the pan huh Is that a 2000 xj? I didn't had any clearance issues with my XJ 99 , I nstalled the exact oil pump👆🙋🏻♂️
Dunno, it was a 2001
Oh gotcha yeah I think 99 vs 2001 pans are little bit different
Awesome video thanks for sharing your knowledge