We'll continue to post these episodes here on RUclips. If you can't wait for the rest of the build, visit our site to binge-watch: www.powernationtv.com/shows/engine-power
I bought a new 87' Cherokee with this engine. Not long after I took delivery, a metal-to-metal tapping-type sound was being emitted from the engine compartment until the engine had warmed up. The dealer (Lou Bachrodt Chevrolet, Rockford, Illinois) replaced the rocker arms in response to a bulletin stating that they were inadequately hardened, then told me the noise was "normal for that type engine" after the third visit. A first visit with a new dealer in an adjacent town (Belvidere Motors, Belvidere, Illinois) solved the problem. The source of the noise was a cracked weld in the exhaust manifold, which then became quiet after the engine had (fully) warmed up. Their mechanic went for a ride with me; after traveling less than100 feet, he exclaimed, "The exhaust manifold is cracked." RESPECT!
Ha this was an issue until 2000 (99 in the grand Cherokee) when they went to a two piece cast iron manifold. The fix is a high end stainless manifold. But a Cheap steel manifold with expansion joints works as well.
At least they removed most of the fake written dialogue between the hosts. These guys seem to genuinely like each other and get along. The banter between the hosts is usually cringe level 5000.
The year is 2000. I just woke up on a Saturday, both parents are gone. Im hungry, i get a bowl of cereal, turn the tv on and see POWERNATION come across the tv screen. Life is good
Wonderful engine. I put 390,000 miles on my 1990 Cherokee. I pulled the head once to replace the head gasket. Other than that, just oil changes, anti freeze and spark plugs. At 390k the compression in two cylinders dropped dramatically, then it spun a piston bearing. I had a hard time deciding to scrap the jeep other than rebuild the engine, but the rest of the jeep was nickel and diming me. Sold it to a scrap guy, he rebuilt it, the jeep is still out there.
"got this dorman oil pan from summit racing" lol you can get dorman from autozone at half the price and no shipping cost because they got one on the shelf lol
In the early 1990's my employer used Jeep Cherokee's exclusively with around 20 of them in their inventory. I was provided a brand new take-home Cherokee and was the first time I'd ever driven a Jeep product and I was immediately impressed how good they drove and the amount of power those 4.0 liter 6 cylinder engines produced. Originally, when I learned they were buying 6-cyl Cherokee's I didn't have much confidence in this motor but after two years behind the wheel of one I was thoroughly impressed.
I love how they made crap power with the TBI setup, said “oh the injection system is fine”, then took it off and made the power they wanted with a carb instead. Umm, it seems to me the injection setup wasn’t so fine after all.
@@everettgrover9459 That doesn't make sense. If the carb fixed the issue, the 4 bbl EFI system should do the same. Had to be a limitation of tuning or lack of understanding of EFI system.
@@a6t8vw1 my thinking was that they had to majorly modify the intake to get the fuel injection to work, and when you modify the airflow to that extent it definitely would alter the power band , but what baffled me was that the made more power with the carburetor rather than the efi
They shouldn’t have put a carburetor in. This type of i6 engine is not even supposed to run on a carb. It looks great now on paper, but it won’t last 5 years
None of the 4.0s was meant to run wet. They all had point fuel injection. The li citing factor on these engines (and pretty much every other US built OHV) six is the cylinder head. Limiting porting options. But the if you got the redline up to 6k you would be do going well. Iline sixes have a resonance somewhere in the 6 -7k rpm range that if you run them at that range for a sustained period the cranks will break. These engines were never designed to be high output high performance power plants. They were designed for adequate* horsepower and low end torque. As to the basic engine architecture there is a racing series in Argentina that uses the 4.0, the Chevy OHV and Ford OHV engines as the base point replacing the head with a DOHC 24 valve piece, dry sump lubrication where the bottom end is modified significantly. Carburation is limited to two two barrel carbs. Engine output around 500 hp.
Years ago I had a 91 wrangler 4.0L. I raced it., lol I know it’s a Jeep. But people never expected a Jeep to whip em. It was forged, custom ground stick and a 250 shot of nitrous.
I'm still shaking my head at the use of a Carb, Chrysler finally got the 4.0L right between 2001 to it's end in 2006 with Fuel Injection. Plenty of silky smooth low end torque. Hell I've seen Turbo'd 4.0L making decent numbers
carbs are cool. i've built some great VG30 nissans with a non-USA intake manifold and a holley model 2300 2-barrel 500cfm carb. nissans VG30E with stock fuel injection=160hp. with the stock cams/valve train with corrected timing and the carb-modded fuel system=225hp (verified on a friend's stuska water dyno). with billet cams- engineers reach for the oh-shit bars.
Working on the AMC 242ci I6 engine is almost like working on a Lego set. I believe a trained chimp could work on these amazing power plants successfully. The simplicity of the AMC 242ci I6 is probably why it is one of the most reliable engines ever made. It is not uncommon for someone to come driving in with a 1999 Jeep Cherokee with the owner complaining it is rattling and the engine have 400,000+ miles on it. The rattle is usually nothing but tired lifters. I tell the owner that I can change the lifters or they can drive it another 200,000 miles before they go out completely. Then they tell me it only does it when it is cold but when it is warm it is fine and it had been doing it since 250,000 miles. I then tell the owner, that is what an AMC 242ci I6 does. The sound is a warning that you must change the old lifters around 600,000 miles. Most decline to change the old lifters after they have a laugh with me.
@@BUKWulfSh0t You have to drop the oil pan to get to the lifters. Some engines, not the classic AMC inline six, you can get to thed lifters after you pull the push rods with a magnet on the end of a stick and just pull them out after the valve rockers, springs, and push rods are pulled. You have to pull the rockers and push rods from under the valve cover first, no matter what, on a pushrod engine. The lifters will be at the lower end of the push rods. Some people take off the cylinder head. But I find that completely pointless and it adds more work.
I gave away my '93 when it had 350,000 miles on it. Checked in with the new owners a few years later and it was well over 400k. Not delivering much in the way of power mind you, but still chugging along.
Based on a 1970s Australian Chrysler design.. I have one in my 76 regal. Two barrel carb and electronic ignition, they were strong torquey motors even without efi
I loved this engine in my jeep!! Could not kill it..Took a licking and kept on ticking always performed strong, pulled like a mule. Just keep your oil fresh, and that coolant in check...More reliable than a V8 in off road applications.
@ChrisHallett83 hardly, barras are expensive in the US, parts are hard to find, they lack the low end torque needed for offroading, keep your barras on the street.
I did almost the exact build for my 85 sx4. 3500 stall, too. Thing dis a two-wheel burnout for blocks and blocks! Blew the transfer case racing in the snow, so I rebuilt the whole thing. Beale did the interior. Black and maroon, black interior. A true muscle car. Loved it! Had vr4, evo, scoobie, focus mach-1 (dont ask), too many bikes to list. Something had to go. Still miss it. And my vr4. And my challenger. Mach-1 (73). Impala. Other sx4. 5 glh turbos. Had it all. Nothing now but success in business and homeschooling. But I got my eye on that new accord 2.0 turbo 6-speed.
I used to be a tech at Chrysler and I've seen this engine over heat so bad the block started glowing red and never blown the head gasket or warped the heads. This engine is bullet proof
Yep, I love the Jeep 4.0 but any straight six is fine. I had a Granada with a straight six (250?) and stick, second best car I've ever had. The best is my 96 XJ Cherokee with the 4.0.
Battle of the sixes. All 3 built so far are the Big 3s best engines made in that platform. This would be interesting, as these motors all have a good aftermarket parts inventory.
This engine came from Rambler originally, then to AMC who acquired Jeep from Willys Overland (Willys only offered a four). The reason for the low wear was all AMC engines used high nickel casing alloy (Oldmobile was the other one). Other mfg's only used Nickel alloys on truck blocks and industrial engines (like Chevy, Ford, International Harvester and Lycoming). BTW IH used this engine in the Scout.
i rebuilt my 4.0 jeep engine last year. i did the 19 lb @43.5 psi injectors, and shoe horn intake cat delete (didnt have it when i got it) the dorman upgraded header 4 core alum rad efans. and its 225 hp now.
@@bluedeval03 the 4.2 was always carbureted, it had a small bore and big stroke, it ended in 1990 in the wrangler. In 1987 the 4.0 was used in the Cherokee it had big bore and small stroke, always had EFI, first a Renault-bendix collaboration called renix and in 91 the 4.0HO with a Chrysler EFI.
My father purchased a 1988 Jeep Cherokee in Oct'87, 4.0l with a 5 speed manual. I remember it was a real strong engine. I once did a first gear rollover at 10-15 km/h and I lit up the rear tires. We pulled heavy loads with it. There wasn't a Southern Ontario snow storm it couldn't handle. I must admit, it was not the most reliable car, but the engine was indestructible. He sold it in Feb 2002 with 455,000 km on the odometer. Did not burn a drop of oil and the engine pulled just as strong as the day he brought it home from the dealer.
I’m surprised they didn’t edit that out before the original airing of this video. I’m not sure If it makes the host look worse or the sponsored product worse.
I had one of the first 1987 4.0 in a Comanche. It was a monster at the time, especially down low. I drove it to about 100k miles and then sold it to my dad who drove it to 300k before passing it on. Hell of a solid engine, pulled like a locomotive.
I love my 4.0 that was bored out to 4.6. 200k miles and no issues other than modules going bad once in a while. 1st gear low atlas transfer case I ghost ride this while spotting myself. Never has stalled.
Great job on the rebuild. The engine sounds great and will run forever with frequent oil changes, cooling system maintenance and a good ear to identify any odd noises. Cheers boys!
@@danielwarpaint1963 Yeah when they did the pull with the TBI system, I was saying to myself "20 Minutes of self tuning, on a Dyno isn't enough, and its LEAN!" LOL...I built a 393W for a friend/customer, and we put one of those Fast EFI Systems on it...and I ran it 3 hours on my engine stand (no real load)...Installed the Engine into a Bullnose Ford Truck, and drove it to work for 2 weeks...and it Finally Woke up after 200+ miles...it was like I would open the secondaries and it would fall on its face like the 4.0 in this video...it was like flipping a switch...when it Finally took charge!
we had a 2001 Cherokee, stock. and that thing have went through a LOT. woods traversing for hunting ( got too tired/lazy to drag very large boar back) camping for 15 days in desert west Texas. road trips from Texas to PA, and back, occasionally stopping in St Louis. odometer was reading 240k miles. when we finally decided to get another car, a brand new grand Cherokee. we kind of put the Cherokee aside for minor projects. first thing we did was to "restore or replace many parts in transmission and engine. bigger ports, bigger intake and exhaust ports, bigger cam. bigger intake box, cherry bomb exhaust. secured shields on undercarriage and rock skid bars. custom bumpers, rhino paint. 2 inch lift spacers. new steering racks, bigger sway bars and custom 2.5mm shield over front differential and rear differential with skid bar to deflect stones away from driveshaft/pinion area. BFG mudders. interior was completely stock other than rear seat remove and passenger side had 200?+ count rachet/hex/torx toolchest with many spare fasteners. driver side, had small cabinet with air compressor and battery jump kit, yeti coolers, and finally a small batterypack UPS for whatever, with 3x 120v outlets. 4.0 Cherokees are really WELL built. probably only good thing from Chrysler. and that is saying a lot.
The later 4.0s have a problem with cracking the heads, if you have one of those this head would give you a bit of a performance increase both because of increased power and decreased weight... but if I was doing it I'd stick with the stock injection system, or maybe bigger injectors.
Best combination is the old 242 block with the 258 crank, the '96 head, 01 horseshoe intake manifold, tri Y header, and coil packs, will do the same as what they did.
You know I used to love shows like this when I was in high school. But now 15 yrs later as a professional watching these shows it is a joke. That intake manifold is not designed flow fuel its design the air that's why it didn't work. And Why would you go from a multi-point fuel injection to an EFI design and also you won't find a professional mechanic out there that uses e3 spark plugs or that likes doorman
Pat made the right move going to the air saw, if you want to be really cool, get a geared air saw and the files that fit it. You won't use it every day but its worth the real estate it takes up for when you do.
I bought a 98 JGC with the 4L a couple years ago from a family friend. Literally sat in a garage and was only used to haul this guys kids to the beach a few times a year. Less than 40k on the odo, spotless maintenance, spotless interior, zero rust, and paid $1,500. They'll bury me in it.
When my son was 16, over 20 years ago, I bought him a 1995 Jeep ... Two wheel drive. That 6 had a hell of a lot of torque and the way it was geared it was fast . I cannot imagine what getting 50 extra horsepower out of that motor would do.
A carburetor, no way!! Unless I’m mistaken the Jeep 4.0L had fuel injection system which was profoundly more reliable. I understand that 50 or so additional HP with the reduced weight will translate into better performance but I’m not so sure it’s worth the money or time and effort.
@@grad0n from 89 to 1992 I sold Jeeps probably a little confused at this point because new vehicles come out so early I'm sure you're correct it was a 91 model year ! But I definitely sold a lot of them in 1990.
I had an 88 Jeep Wrangler with this beast of an engine. Im getting a new 2020 Jeep with a 2.0 that puts out twice the power at half the displacement, and gets twice the fuel economy. Its shocking how far we have come.
Why not upgrade the port injection design with manifold porting? It would be much simpler as you're leveraging the original design and better for cold weather conditions.
FYI you really should consider turning the throttle body/CARB 90 degrees to better align the primary and secondary circuits! FWIW the primary barrels should be furthest from the manifold, and the secondary barrels closer, so a fancy throttle cable is in order...
Exactly, take advantage of the primary’s being farther away (torque) and secondary’s closer/ shorter (hp) just like the custom 4 barrel intake I made to run an s2000 Honda engine in carb required class circle track racing. Literally handed every ford 2.3 and quad 4 Chevy their asses.
Curious why you guys didn't go down the route of using the factory style injection bosses and setup in batch fire, rather than butchering the factory manifold?
Hold up Boss, first off after you Frankesteind that intake for injection you used a carb for your goal. How realistic is that to do at home? THAT setup there wouldn't even let me button up the hood. Nice build if you have a surplus of cash and tools though.
And depending on which state you live in, the emissions inspector would take one look at that, check the book on what its supposed to have and fail the Jeep. Yeah, you got a nice carb setup and a Jeep you can't register or drive on the street. Fail.
MY 2004 GRAND CHEROKEE HAS THE 4.7 H.O. V-8 IN IT ,,, THE N-247 FULL TIME 4 WHEEL DRIVE .... JUST HI & LO 4 WHEEL DRIVE NO OFF ,,, DANA 35 FRONT ,,,, DANA 44 LSD REAR .... ITS A MINI TANK...I LOVE IT...
Yes sir: covering alot of altitude is where EFI wins [with proper mapping and good mass air flow sensing]. That said, if you can stay at relatively the same altitude, a well tuned carb is my preference - vacuum & velocity don't crash or lock up like a computer can. If I ran pike's peak, I want fuel injection.
Would like to see you remove some of the aftermarket kit bit by bit to see how much of a difference these expensive parts actually make. The intake is a given but some of the other stuff.
We'll continue to post these episodes here on RUclips. If you can't wait for the rest of the build, visit our site to binge-watch: www.powernationtv.com/shows/engine-power
You guys should in the future rebuild and tune the 4.0 OHV 6V. That would be an interesting build!
I’d like to see the episode where you tested the 300 inline six and also I’d like to see you build a mopar 383
What did it cost to build? How much 66hp and 66 torque cost?
Love these episodes you guys!! Keep it up! #JeepLife
Through the buildcost in the description haha (minus the tunetime$)
After watching this video I now feel completely confident.... to pay an engine shop to do this for me.
Ahahah we could be friends
Except I’d prob buy all the necessary tools before coming to that conclusion
How much do think itll cost, to get a job like that done???
even then, I dont feel confident in "professionals" to do this. Even if they have exact instructions.
I'm feel like I wanna do it, then I think...I'm I trash mechanic...
I bought a new 87' Cherokee with this engine. Not long after I took delivery, a metal-to-metal tapping-type sound was being emitted from the engine compartment until the engine had warmed up. The dealer (Lou Bachrodt Chevrolet, Rockford, Illinois) replaced the rocker arms in response to a bulletin stating that they were inadequately hardened, then told me the noise was "normal for that type engine" after the third visit. A first visit with a new dealer in an adjacent town (Belvidere Motors, Belvidere, Illinois) solved the problem. The source of the noise was a cracked weld in the exhaust manifold, which then became quiet after the engine had (fully) warmed up. Their mechanic went for a ride with me; after traveling less than100 feet, he exclaimed, "The exhaust manifold is cracked." RESPECT!
Ha this was an issue until 2000 (99 in the grand Cherokee) when they went to a two piece cast iron manifold. The fix is a high end stainless manifold. But a Cheap steel manifold with expansion joints works as well.
Had the exact same problem with my 87. They diagnosed right, but it always seemed to have a slight leak.
My 1996 Grand Cherokee developed a manifold leak 200,000 miles ago. Never had it fixed. Apparently this engine doesn't care. Neither do I 😊
I feel like I was just transported to 2005 with this production style.
I mean for this type od video, some things havent really changed much.
Dude ,Sunday’s back in the early 90s was the only time we got to watch these on TNN
At least they removed most of the fake written dialogue between the hosts. These guys seem to genuinely like each other and get along. The banter between the hosts is usually cringe level 5000.
Hahah 10 seconds in hit the nail on the head
It is from mid 2000's watched these on spike tv
The year is 2000. I just woke up on a Saturday, both parents are gone. Im hungry, i get a bowl of cereal, turn the tv on and see POWERNATION come across the tv screen. Life is good
Wonderful engine. I put 390,000 miles on my 1990 Cherokee. I pulled the head once to replace the head gasket. Other than that, just oil changes, anti freeze and spark plugs. At 390k the compression in two cylinders dropped dramatically, then it spun a piston bearing. I had a hard time deciding to scrap the jeep other than rebuild the engine, but the rest of the jeep was nickel and diming me. Sold it to a scrap guy, he rebuilt it, the jeep is still out there.
Doman is guaranteed to fit. That's comedy gold right there.
Except... at least some of their pans are painted inside, and the paint comes off and clogs the oil sump, toasting the engine.
@@georgesimpson3113 The automotive equivalent of a pulmonary embolism.
Dorman. Every time I use it I cringe.
"got this dorman oil pan from summit racing" lol you can get dorman from autozone at half the price and no shipping cost because they got one on the shelf lol
Or there oil cooler gaskets that are not compatible with motor oil
“Now we’re not stroking it, and we’re not stroking you...”
Jared Lines i was like, what the hell😂
I said it in my head and knew id find it in the comments lol
Jared Lines That's what she said
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
@Benny T Sometimes I really wonder who is writing this stuff. Haha
Love how this video includes not only the successful outcome but also the failed ideas and their rectification.
Your a moron
The end result sounds great and the numbers are as well.
In the early 1990's my employer used Jeep Cherokee's exclusively with around 20 of them in their inventory. I was provided a brand new take-home Cherokee and was the first time I'd ever driven a Jeep product and I was immediately impressed how good they drove and the amount of power those 4.0 liter 6 cylinder engines produced. Originally, when I learned they were buying 6-cyl Cherokee's I didn't have much confidence in this motor but after two years behind the wheel of one I was thoroughly impressed.
@Oggy No, by that point they were owned by Chrysler and our Cherokee's had their straight-six motor.
@Oggy They're two completely different engines.
Ahh, there’s something therapeutic and stimulating watching an engine be put together.
and that's just watching....imagine actually DOING it? YEE-HAW!!!
I love how they made crap power with the TBI setup, said “oh the injection system is fine”, then took it off and made the power they wanted with a carb instead. Umm, it seems to me the injection setup wasn’t so fine after all.
Your right ...like a used car salesman. Your screwed.
the injection system is fine...it was the altered induction system that messed it all up, as it was configured for a carb setup rather than EFI
@@everettgrover9459 That doesn't make sense. If the carb fixed the issue, the 4 bbl EFI system should do the same. Had to be a limitation of tuning or lack of understanding of EFI system.
@@a6t8vw1 my thinking was that they had to majorly modify the intake to get the fuel injection to work, and when you modify the airflow to that extent it definitely would alter the power band , but what baffled me was that the made more power with the carburetor rather than the efi
@@a6t8vw1 it was kind of a theory I had if that helps you
That 99-up intake manifold was never made to run “wet”, I’d love to see how it runs with the factory port injectors.
It'll be fine, so long as you start it up in a heated garage without the camera rolling. I swear these guys are amateurs.
Would probably be more hp
.........and the coil on plug ignition, too!
They shouldn’t have put a carburetor in. This type of i6 engine is not even supposed to run on a carb. It looks great now on paper, but it won’t last 5 years
None of the 4.0s was meant to run wet. They all had point fuel injection. The li citing factor on these engines (and pretty much every other US built OHV) six is the cylinder head. Limiting porting options. But the if you got the redline up to 6k you would be do going well. Iline sixes have a resonance somewhere in the 6 -7k rpm range that if you run them at that range for a sustained period the cranks will break.
These engines were never designed to be high output high performance power plants. They were designed for adequate* horsepower and low end torque. As to the basic engine architecture there is a racing series in Argentina that uses the 4.0, the Chevy OHV and Ford OHV engines as the base point replacing the head with a DOHC 24 valve piece, dry sump lubrication where the bottom end is modified significantly. Carburation is limited to two two barrel carbs. Engine output around 500 hp.
Welding without gloves? What a champ.
That just tells me he’s only welding for the video 😂
Years ago I had a 91 wrangler 4.0L. I raced it., lol I know it’s a Jeep. But people never expected a Jeep to whip em. It was forged, custom ground stick and a 250 shot of nitrous.
I'm still shaking my head at the use of a Carb, Chrysler finally got the 4.0L right between 2001 to it's end in 2006 with Fuel Injection. Plenty of silky smooth low end torque. Hell I've seen Turbo'd 4.0L making decent numbers
Carb? No, that's an TBI EFI system.
@@cmte.brazinazzo2061 but does that resemble the last years of the 4.0? it doesn't
@@cmte.brazinazzo2061 Did you watch the whole video? They gave up on the TBI and put a carb on it.
carbs are cool. i've built some great VG30 nissans with a non-USA intake manifold and a holley model 2300 2-barrel 500cfm carb. nissans VG30E with stock fuel injection=160hp. with the stock cams/valve train with corrected timing and the carb-modded fuel system=225hp (verified on a friend's stuska water dyno). with billet cams- engineers reach for the oh-shit bars.
Part 2 of the 4.0 rebuild, take off all the silliness, grab another 99+ intake and use the factory injection, ignition and ECU.
Yeah. This was painful to watch.
They need a way to tune that pile of dogshit you Jeeptards all salivate over.
Working on the AMC 242ci I6 engine is almost like working on a Lego set. I believe a trained chimp could work on these amazing power plants successfully. The simplicity of the AMC 242ci I6 is probably why it is one of the most reliable engines ever made. It is not uncommon for someone to come driving in with a 1999 Jeep Cherokee with the owner complaining it is rattling and the engine have 400,000+ miles on it. The rattle is usually nothing but tired lifters. I tell the owner that I can change the lifters or they can drive it another 200,000 miles before they go out completely. Then they tell me it only does it when it is cold but when it is warm it is fine and it had been doing it since 250,000 miles. I then tell the owner, that is what an AMC 242ci I6 does. The sound is a warning that you must change the old lifters around 600,000 miles. Most decline to change the old lifters after they have a laugh with me.
I am one of those trained chimps.
@@11BMW328i hahaha me either 😂
Question... why would they go with flat top lifters instead of roller/rocker cam and lifters?
Where's the lifter located? I am not a trained chimp as you may have figured by now
@@BUKWulfSh0t You have to drop the oil pan to get to the lifters. Some engines, not the classic AMC inline six, you can get to thed lifters after you pull the push rods with a magnet on the end of a stick and just pull them out after the valve rockers, springs, and push rods are pulled. You have to pull the rockers and push rods from under the valve cover first, no matter what, on a pushrod engine. The lifters will be at the lower end of the push rods. Some people take off the cylinder head. But I find that completely pointless and it adds more work.
It's nice to see people rebuilding engines that most people don't think about when they think performance. Be awesome to see a gm 4.3 v6 sometime
the 4.0l is one of the most bulletproof engines jeep made.
I gave away my '93 when it had 350,000 miles on it. Checked in with the new owners a few years later and it was well over 400k. Not delivering much in the way of power mind you, but still chugging along.
Based on a 1970s Australian Chrysler design.. I have one in my 76 regal. Two barrel carb and electronic ignition, they were strong torquey motors even without efi
My 98 is my daily driver,312k on it. Runs great.
Not when these guys get ahold of it
*Except for the absolutely PUSSIFIED cast aluminum pistons in the later models, which will grenade themselves at the slightest sign of heat or stress.
I loved this engine in my jeep!! Could not kill it..Took a licking and kept on ticking always performed strong, pulled like a mule. Just keep your oil fresh, and that coolant in check...More reliable than a V8 in off road applications.
My favorite Jeep engine. Such a shame they stopped using them.
newer 3.8 was good
@ChrisHallett83 hardly, barras are expensive in the US, parts are hard to find, they lack the low end torque needed for offroading, keep your barras on the street.
The Jeep 4.0 and the 7.3 PSD. Two legendary engines that never shouldve been replaced.
@ChrisHallett83 waste of time swapping in a boat anchor when mine works perfectly fine
Yep, but it was an AMC design and Chrysler/MB wanted to get rid of it... especially Chrysler as it's a better engine than anything Chrysler makes.
There you go! Straight 6, a simple engine! Least Complicated, very dependable with great torque and horsepower per square inch.
Add a 401 to the equation for hell of it
I did almost the exact build for my 85 sx4. 3500 stall, too. Thing dis a two-wheel burnout for blocks and blocks! Blew the transfer case racing in the snow, so I rebuilt the whole thing. Beale did the interior. Black and maroon, black interior. A true muscle car. Loved it! Had vr4, evo, scoobie, focus mach-1 (dont ask), too many bikes to list. Something had to go. Still miss it. And my vr4. And my challenger. Mach-1 (73). Impala. Other sx4. 5 glh turbos. Had it all. Nothing now but success in business and homeschooling. But I got my eye on that new accord 2.0 turbo 6-speed.
I used to be a tech at Chrysler and I've seen this engine over heat so bad the block started glowing red and never blown the head gasket or warped the heads. This engine is bullet proof
Then you also probably saw plenty with shattered pistons.
No Doorman product is corrosion resistant and guaranteed to fit.
doorman and omix are the worst. used oem parts are better lol
I made the mistake of ordering a dorman oil pan once...
Oblithian a baking pan would have worked better
@@Oblithian hey they aren't bad. I have one to hold parts like bolts and such.
@@Tigerfire75 Dorman bed pan
A ford 300 inline 6 fuel injected build would be sweet!
Now, that 300 is a torque monster. It has the stroke to get it done. I would like to see that too!
Same
@RK Henderson these guys mad a mistake with the intake. The efi didnt like it . Fuel injected Is all around better too.
@RK Henderson he says it right in the video dumbfuck, how come we dont use carburetors anymore? It's like efi is more efficient or something, weird.
Yep, I love the Jeep 4.0 but any straight six is fine. I had a Granada with a straight six (250?) and stick, second best car I've ever had. The best is my 96 XJ Cherokee with the 4.0.
Love my 4.0 wrangler. It is a beast and amazing motor. As a veteran mechanic i have seen some crap engines but this motor is great.
Owned one in a 72 I6, 3.8l in a Jeep Commando. Ça 130 HP. Smooth and reliable. Definitely an all time favorite.
My Cherokee has 31 years and still running with the original engine. Those little engines just keep going and going and going 🐰🐰🐰
Would like to see a Ford 300 I-6 build.
They already did
Battle of the sixes. All 3 built so far are the Big 3s best engines made in that platform. This would be interesting, as these motors all have a good aftermarket parts inventory.
Knock down the 250 Chevy engine they have done the Ford 300 and the Dodge 225 and they've also done a video about the Ford 200
How about a chevy 292?
Me to
such a nice sound in the old straight sixes
This engine came from Rambler originally, then to AMC who acquired Jeep from Willys Overland (Willys only offered a four). The reason for the low wear was all AMC engines used high nickel casing alloy (Oldmobile was the other one). Other mfg's only used Nickel alloys on truck blocks and industrial engines (like Chevy, Ford, International Harvester and Lycoming). BTW IH used this engine in the Scout.
You guys speak my language. No-Nonsense, concise rubber meets the road talk. Not a bunch of nonsense.
i rebuilt my 4.0 jeep engine last year. i did the 19 lb @43.5 psi injectors, and shoe horn intake cat delete (didnt have it when i got it) the dorman upgraded header 4 core alum rad efans. and its 225 hp now.
Why on earth would you remove multi-port fuel injection for throttle body injection or carburetor? Those manifolds were designed to flow air only.
I believe they had an older block that was TBI to start with and modified a newer head to take the Edelbrock kit.
4.0 was never TBI, when it came out in 1987 it had renix style multiport injection.
@@ryanjenkins9776 87-90 was carbed 4.2, 91 up was mpi 4.0
XJ were efi starting in 87
@@bluedeval03 the 4.2 was always carbureted, it had a small bore and big stroke, it ended in 1990 in the wrangler.
In 1987 the 4.0 was used in the Cherokee it had big bore and small stroke, always had EFI, first a Renault-bendix collaboration called renix and in 91 the 4.0HO with a Chrysler EFI.
I have been a mechanic all my life, but I have never seen anyone ever leave out or forget to place the crankshaft bolt cross-tie locks until now.
This show is bs
I came here to be stroked, thanks for the disclaimer. Im out
STROKE ME
Damn you beat me to it
Damn it I had the ky jelly!!
😂😂😂😂 that shit made me laugh when he said it lmao
Lmao hey they need to turbo charge it
Glad to see you are not afraid to use cork! Cork will last for years if it is properly torqued!
My father purchased a 1988 Jeep Cherokee in Oct'87, 4.0l with a 5 speed manual. I remember it was a real strong engine. I once did a first gear rollover at 10-15 km/h and I lit up the rear tires. We pulled heavy loads with it. There wasn't a Southern Ontario snow storm it couldn't handle. I must admit, it was not the most reliable car, but the engine was indestructible. He sold it in Feb 2002 with 455,000 km on the odometer. Did not burn a drop of oil and the engine pulled just as strong as the day he brought it home from the dealer.
"Definitely not the injection system's fault."
Puts a carb on and it gains 80 HP...
They used a shit FI system. Put a proper multi-port injection system in it and it will beat that carb.
@@spjmrlahey4008 not to mention an aluminum head and aluminum pistons. Dropped the ball on this build for sure.
I’m surprised they didn’t edit that out before the original airing of this video. I’m not sure If it makes the host look worse or the sponsored product worse.
@@spjmrlahey4008 no, they used a split plane crab spacer, it looks like. efi doest like that at all.
Haha I'm getting flamed for saying basically the same thing. Old men and their carburetors.....
I appreciate the honesty and showing when something doesn't work as expected.
A 6-1 header to a 3 inch exhaust and you have the magical sound of a straight six.
Over the decades we have owned 4 Jeeps with 4.0s and two with 4.2s... very good engines, very cool build.
I had one of the first 1987 4.0 in a Comanche. It was a monster at the time, especially down low. I drove it to about 100k miles and then sold it to my dad who drove it to 300k before passing it on. Hell of a solid engine, pulled like a locomotive.
I would have liked to seen that power run before you cowboyed the intake manifold.
It's called in ovation instead of lamo ovation
Your intake probably failed because of how you did it.. and to quote big chief, looks like ray Charles welded it with his feet
@Alex L ...But Ray COULD weld!! Haven't you ever seen his welds?
....Neither DID HE!!
maybe it needed the overhang trimmed to the inside of the plenum and welded flush also?
Ray Charles was only using his feet so he didn't mess up his hands since he plays the piano
You ever weld cast aluminum?
@@JT_771 exactly, I bet they lost a bunch of horsepower because of that.
It’s been proven by hesco that the stock injection configuration and runner length is the best set up!
I love my 4.0 that was bored out to 4.6. 200k miles and no issues other than modules going bad once in a while. 1st gear low atlas transfer case I ghost ride this while spotting myself. Never has stalled.
Very good engine ..my 1987 Jeep had this 4.0 V6 & was a Workhorse ..too bad they stopped making it..
Great job on the rebuild. The engine sounds great and will run forever with frequent oil changes, cooling system maintenance and a good ear to identify any odd noises. Cheers boys!
THAT'S what jeep thought, too
Product placement aside, I must say that's a beautiful straight six.
"It's definitely not the injection" - next minute, swaps out engine for carb. Luddites.
Yeah, I don't think the computer had enough references to fully tune it...almost everyone with an ear could hear it was lean! SMH!
Too much pride to say they're wrong.
@@misters2837 YesSir, it sounded amazing with the carburetor.
@@danielwarpaint1963 Yeah when they did the pull with the TBI system, I was saying to myself "20 Minutes of self tuning, on a Dyno isn't enough, and its LEAN!" LOL...I built a 393W for a friend/customer, and we put one of those Fast EFI Systems on it...and I ran it 3 hours on my engine stand (no real load)...Installed the Engine into a Bullnose Ford Truck, and drove it to work for 2 weeks...and it Finally Woke up after 200+ miles...it was like I would open the secondaries and it would fall on its face like the 4.0 in this video...it was like flipping a switch...when it Finally took charge!
@@danielwarpaint1963 ,,,thas why I junked my EFI, currently running a big weber with a few other mods
we had a 2001 Cherokee, stock. and that thing have went through a LOT. woods traversing for hunting ( got too tired/lazy to drag very large boar back) camping for 15 days in desert west Texas. road trips from Texas to PA, and back, occasionally stopping in St Louis.
odometer was reading 240k miles. when we finally decided to get another car, a brand new grand Cherokee. we kind of put the Cherokee aside for minor projects. first thing we did was to "restore or replace many parts in transmission and engine. bigger ports, bigger intake and exhaust ports, bigger cam. bigger intake box, cherry bomb exhaust. secured shields on undercarriage and rock skid bars. custom bumpers, rhino paint. 2 inch lift spacers. new steering racks, bigger sway bars and custom 2.5mm shield over front differential and rear differential with skid bar to deflect stones away from driveshaft/pinion area. BFG mudders. interior was completely stock other than rear seat remove and passenger side had 200?+ count rachet/hex/torx toolchest with many spare fasteners. driver side, had small cabinet with air compressor and battery jump kit, yeti coolers, and finally a small batterypack UPS for whatever, with 3x 120v outlets. 4.0 Cherokees are really WELL built. probably only good thing from Chrysler. and that is saying a lot.
I have a 2004 grand Cherokee with 449, 895 miles currently, and still running strong
these engines are plentiful, cheap, reliable and bad ass. I would like to see more on this engine. supercharge that sh*t!
Help me with mine lol
The cork valve cover gasket is killing me. I guess it saves you from having to open the hood and pour a quart of oil on it every week.
They do have a place to add the oil to the motor 🙄 duh dude I'm just saying 😉😂😆🤔
Someone should produce an aluminum replacement block for these. The last thing these Jeeps need is more weight with an iron lump up front.
Always a pleasure to see Mr. Topolinsky 👍👍
That block would be a good boat anchor and that’s about it.
You could make 240 hp with the stock head. Once again selling people something they don’t need.
There didn't seem to be much gain there, sure the ports are bigger, but the valves were said as "same as stock",...
@@PiDsPagePrototypes That may be true, but the head replaced bathtub chambers with heart shaped chambers, which is supposed to improve power.
The later 4.0s have a problem with cracking the heads, if you have one of those this head would give you a bit of a performance increase both because of increased power and decreased weight... but if I was doing it I'd stick with the stock injection system, or maybe bigger injectors.
Best combination is the old 242 block with the 258 crank, the '96 head, 01 horseshoe intake manifold, tri Y header, and coil packs, will do the same as what they did.
Dylan Dembrow
No! If good engine building practices were used they’d pull well over 300. 350+HP is common
You know I used to love shows like this when I was in high school. But now 15 yrs later as a professional watching these shows it is a joke. That intake manifold is not designed flow fuel its design the air that's why it didn't work. And Why would you go from a multi-point fuel injection to an EFI design and also you won't find a professional mechanic out there that uses e3 spark plugs or that likes doorman
Autolite or NGK all day
And gutting the valve cover baffles to clear the roller rocker. There is a cheap spacer available for the stock valve cover. Ugly paint color as well.
Zac none So it wasn’t just me that cringed at the plug choice.
K J I just wouldn’t do it. Not going to put my reputation on the line just too use crap parts from a sponsor.
agreed, i think those elevated runners on the middle 2 cylinders are going to make for a short life span on this engine
Finally. A good video for a jeep engine build and good links for the parts
My dad had a old 89 YJ wrangler and damn it was bullet proof him and drove that thing everywhere
Pat made the right move going to the air saw, if you want to be really cool, get a geared air saw and the files that fit it. You won't use it every day but its worth the real estate it takes up for when you do.
Yeah I "need" ARP fasteners on my oil pan! Cuz I gots to get 'em tight tight tight!
My jeeps has a 232, it's a 73 dj5. Really cool jeep
I love this engine! I'd chose it over the 318 v8 any day.
I was beside a Jeep with a built 4.0L and it lifted the wheels off the line. It was amazing.
7 main bearings. Seven. That is why these motors were gold.
"so go easy" *hits the crank timing gear with a hammer in the next frame* lol
242 whole horsepower! at what cost? Next you'll build the elusive $5K 300 HP 350 Chevy.
2:10.."were not Strokin it and Were not Strokin you".. .you just HAD To say that on camera Lmfao 😂
🤣🤣
actually now that I’ve watched the whole vid? They were shoveling a lotta bull!
that workshop is cleaner than my kitchen
"We're not stroking it, and we're not stroking you"
Now, now, let's not get too hasty here...
😂😂😂
I bought a 98 JGC with the 4L a couple years ago from a family friend. Literally sat in a garage and was only used to haul this guys kids to the beach a few times a year. Less than 40k on the odo, spotless maintenance, spotless interior, zero rust, and paid $1,500.
They'll bury me in it.
They should have known recessing that carb plate would restrict the flow.
If you watch again they also appear to have a 4bb to 2bb reducer on it as well.
Exactly, especially after they picked the later model IM for better flow...
Gotta love them Jeeps. That straight-six is beautiful. The sound it makes too ❤❤❤
When my son was 16, over 20 years ago, I bought him a 1995 Jeep ... Two wheel drive. That 6 had a hell of a lot of torque and the way it was geared it was fast . I cannot imagine what getting 50 extra horsepower out of that motor would do.
A carburetor, no way!! Unless I’m mistaken the Jeep 4.0L had fuel injection system which was profoundly more reliable. I understand that 50 or so additional HP with the reduced weight will translate into better performance but I’m not so sure it’s worth the money or time and effort.
Definitely agree
By 1990 the 4L H.O. was rated @ 190 horsepower !
Dean Williams 1991 was the “H.O.”
@@grad0n from 89 to 1992 I sold Jeeps probably a little confused at this point because new vehicles come out so early I'm sure you're correct it was a 91 model year ! But I definitely sold a lot of them in 1990.
They "modernize" a Jeep 4.0 but install the stock, leak-prone cork gaskets on the oil pan and valve cover....
It's a feature to ensure the undercarriage doesn't rust.
Clueless that there’s a whole industry of 4.0 improvements. But they never heard of felpro I guess?
Hi
Came for this comment!
cork is only leak prone if you install them wrong.
I had an 88 Jeep Wrangler with this beast of an engine. Im getting a new 2020 Jeep with a 2.0 that puts out twice the power at half the displacement, and gets twice the fuel economy. Its shocking how far we have come.
this man is still doing this yo this man was my childhood back in the day on spike tv if anyone knows what that is legend
Not a fan of your old school fuel injection and carburetor, should have used the factory fuel injector location
Wow they are using the cork gasket on the head,most people change that.
Why not upgrade the port injection design with manifold porting? It would be much simpler as you're leveraging the original design and better for cold weather conditions.
Powernation is apparently the CNN of motorsports.
Need more XJ videos. This is a great video. Professional work and quality is great
FYI you really should consider turning the throttle body/CARB 90 degrees to better align the primary and secondary circuits! FWIW the primary barrels should be furthest from the manifold, and the secondary barrels closer, so a fancy throttle cable is in order...
Exactly, take advantage of the primary’s being farther away (torque) and secondary’s closer/ shorter (hp) just like the custom 4 barrel intake I made to run an s2000 Honda engine in carb required class circle track racing. Literally handed every ford 2.3 and quad 4 Chevy their asses.
Curious why you guys didn't go down the route of using the factory style injection bosses and setup in batch fire, rather than butchering the factory manifold?
Craig W I was thinking the same thing
because that alone would cost like $500 for just the megasquirt ii ecu.
@@frigglebiscuit7484 they could've just used the factory ecu.
Theodore Dowman Already got 2500$ into the ez-efi kit, should of chosen the 1200$ that utilises multi point and keeps the sponsors happy also :)
Craig W Laziness.
Hold up Boss, first off after you Frankesteind that intake for injection you used a carb for your goal. How realistic is that to do at home? THAT setup there wouldn't even let me button up the hood. Nice build if you have a surplus of cash and tools though.
And depending on which state you live in, the emissions inspector would take one look at that, check the book on what its supposed to have and fail the Jeep.
Yeah, you got a nice carb setup and a Jeep you can't register or drive on the street. Fail.
MY 2004 GRAND CHEROKEE HAS THE 4.7 H.O. V-8 IN IT ,,, THE N-247 FULL TIME 4 WHEEL DRIVE .... JUST HI & LO 4 WHEEL DRIVE NO OFF ,,, DANA 35 FRONT ,,,, DANA 44 LSD REAR .... ITS A MINI TANK...I LOVE IT...
You have no idea how many times I've watched this episode lol as an owner of a jeep with the 4.0, I have a personal interest
You guys need to cover how to EFI this build as guys like me that offroad the shit out of these engines at high altitude can not run a carburetor.
Yes sir: covering alot of altitude is where EFI wins [with proper mapping and good mass air flow sensing]. That said, if you can stay at relatively the same altitude, a well tuned carb is my preference - vacuum & velocity don't crash or lock up like a computer can. If I ran pike's peak, I want fuel injection.
@@flinch622 Uhh yeah.. Carbs are awesome for rock crawling.. if you like stumbling bumbling and dying engines.
I'm with you, screw carburetors. I'm tired of losing 1/3 of my power at 7,000 feet even with a jet change.
Would like to see you remove some of the aftermarket kit bit by bit to see how much of a difference these expensive parts actually make.
The intake is a given but some of the other stuff.
The best jeep engine
that 6 in line revs up smooth like a jet enginer, nothing sound better than a 6 in line
That's cool! I appreciate your builds on 6 cylinders.
Thanks Guy's!