Did you know / tip... 2.0L & 1.9L TD Crank Gear
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Thomas
P.O. Box 83041
4827 Kingsway
Burnaby, BC
V5H 0A4
Canada
EXOVCDS Swag: 1060461.spreads...
/ exovcds
iVue Video Glasses:
ivuecamera.com/
Use coupon code: EXOVCDS15 to get 15% off any order!!!
Rate, Comment, Share, Subscribe, Let the Ads play... I'm still paying off my tools!! Tool or Coffee & Donut Donations welcome at my website below!!
fkh161.ca/
Check out my Picture on on Instagram:
/ exovcds
#installationisinreverseofremoval #iusetools #idontjustreviewthem
When & Where Needed:
*** Raise & support the vehicle safely according to Manufacturer Jacking & Supporting Positions!!! ***
VW Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.vw.com
Audi Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.audiusa.com
VW Tools:
vw.snapon.com
Audi Tools:
audi.snapon.com
Nice of you to help them! May god reward you with many children! 😊
They are out there already... I just don't know about them yet! LOL
Thomas. Your videos are not too long and are surely not boring. I love the knowledge that you have to share. Thank you sooooo much.
Thank you... send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers.
fkh161 @ fkh161 .ca
I failed to mention Turbo Diesel (A3/mk3) engines in this video... they are also prone to having this issue (when the bolt is not tightened correctly or due to age)!!! 6:47 the dimple is at 5 o'clock... should be at 7/8 o'clock (another clue that something is not right). 6:44 the dimple is on the wrong side... because the gear is broken. The outer half of the gear has spun on the center section (picture at 7:32). He was very lucky that no valve were bent... the crankshaft moved 90 degrees due to the broken crank gear!!! 4:05 engine is running fine again!
Yes, I was F I R S T!
Holy Shiiite. I have an AWP (MkIV) but why would mine be exempt from this? This has the potential for being a clusterfu*k for VW.
I have not seen them come loose yet on a 1.8T. Still worth checking / replacing (the bolt) at each timing belt change. Needs to come off anyways to change the seal. =)
Is this also an issue with the ALH TDI engines? Mine will be due for a timing belt soon.
Can happen on ALH as well.
My father used to show me that trick as a child. In front of the green screen you can make your hands dissapear with those green gloves!🤣🤣
I will wear a green suit and make myself disappear! =)
Very nice of you to help the folks out there. The video was very interesting and informative. And I’ve never found one of your videos too long or would make me sleepy. Oh, nice trick at the end and when people haven’t seen it, it makes a nice conversation. Have a good one Thomas! 😀👍
Thank you Terry!
Thanks for this video. My grandson and I did an ABA swap into his mark 1 rabbit. We upgraded to the Motronic wiring and instrument cluster and have been pulling our hair out trying to get it running properly. This is our problem too. Been watching your videos for years, hope you get into a less busy shop so you can do more videos again.
Thanks
Victor
Eagle Creek, Oregon
Nice to hear that one of my videos was of help. Thank you for watching!
This is a well-known issue for the 1Z/AHU TDI people. Apparently the way the harmonic balancer goes bad over time causes a hammering effect that ultimately causes an un untimely death of the keyway. The clutched alt pulley is supposed to help alleviate some of the effect. Some crankshaft bolts were not adequately tightened from the factory (or slowly loosened over thousands of miles) to the point of allowing some slop between the sprocket and the crank snout. I replaced this recently on my 1Z as a preventative measure and I’m glad I did. No damage to the crank snout but the sprocket bolt was unnervingly easy to remove. Torqued it down with the proper locking tool, harmonic balancer, new sprocket and stretch bolt and all is good... hopefully.
Thanks for the added info / verification of my tip. I have seen a few TD / early TDI engines that had the gear come loose. On one I had to replace the crankshaft (key in crankshaft was redesigned in later versions, to help prevent key wear issues.
Awesome he got your parts and back on the road again . I would have just went to my therapist and cried :)
There there... there there!!!
Hi Thomas I notice that if you get a car that the timing belt broke and hit the valves then you really have to remove the crank gear and inspect the gear and key way I’ve seen a lot of damaged that way but also from people removing the gear and not replacing the bolt and not torquing it properly I remember repairing quite a few AAZ engine for this issue and from what I could see is because theses cars never got the alternator pulley with clutch like the TDI’s plus the spring tensioner for the alternator belt wasn’t strong enough on MK4 TDI’s they changed the design of the key way and except cars that broke a timing belt I think I’ve never seen any issues with them.
Yes, all good / correct points!
I'm sure those guys appreciate the help you gave them.
I hope so.
Outstanding analysis, breakdown, and documentation of the different cases presented. Thanks Thomas!
I got lucky again! =)
Glad you could help these guys out! great job and helpfulness Thomas!
Happy endings are always welcome!
Had one ALH where the bolt came loose. Very good info. thanks for the video.
Hey Richard... yeah, I bet all shops that deal with VW's have run into this before. =)
Thank you for another great video!
This is unique to you videos. It always gives much more than title would sugest. Lots of real life tips and tricks. It's wonderfull that you helped thoose people. I'm sure we all do appreciate that... But I woun't forgive you for not making more Various bits ;)
Greetings from Serbia.
I should have a new one soon!
Thanks for watching!
Good to know mate, I’ve got a golf mk3 coming in for a cambelt replacement, I’m going to order a new bolt and check the condition of the sprocket. Cheers 👍
Looking forward to the video!
Ahhh! Most I've seen non vw have Woodruff keys. This should be a mandatory replacement part, timing belt change. They are under $15 New. Plus new crank bolt!😁
Dude your a life saver keep up the good work. Saved me a bunch of times
Nice to hear, thank you. Thank you for watching!
Had this happen on my mk3 1997 ABA 8v 2.0L. It had mushroomed the crankshaft slightly, so i ended up getting a new sprocket and bolt and tacked it to the crank with the ol mig. Ran for a good 200 000 more kilometers!
Interesting (welding part)... thanks for sharing!
Appreciate every single one of your video's TY and have a Happy Holiday's!
Thank you, likewise and thank you for watching!
Enjoyed that and didn't fall asleep! Sounds like you're getting a cold? Early night for you young man! 😂
I've been battling Bronchitis for the last 8 weeks... the last time I had a cough attack like this was 2013. I'm usually over it after 2 months... so it shouldn't be much longer. I'm in bed early every night... not sure if that's good or bad. =)
Depends on the company you keep I guess 😂 Plenty of vit c and b's should get you back on the mend ♥️
I wouldn't be great company in my current state... taking vitamins & inhalers daily. Won't be much longer and I'll be back to normal (knock on wood). Wood wood... I'm not filthy minded, it just seems to come out like that all the time.
That's the company I keep lol I don't even notice, it's normal 😂😂😂
@@TheCowgirlNiamh LOL
Great job and great tips.
Thank you and thanks for dropping by!
Nasty stuff! Well done, Thomas.
Thank you Bill.
I believe my 1.9L is having this problem . Crankshaft pulley is wobbly and a lot of shaking at idle!
Inspect as soon as possible. Thank you for watching!
Thomas, would a Piston Stop help identify True TDC? I used one on an older V8 that the harmonic balancer with timing mark moved, due to age. What's best way to remove crank bolt on ABA? Where to Wedge? I will definitely put on my maintenance list! Finally got my 97 road going, passed Smog! Replaced 🐈 and 🐈 back. So pleased to drive it in a Sea of Dull cars. Make your Vids as long as you want! Never Boring.
I use a tool that attaches to the crank gear... I hold the tool with a breaker bar while I use another breaker bar (or impact gun when loosening) on the crank bolt.
Excellent info. You're a good chap 👍
Thank you... you ain't so bad yourself!
3 conditions must exist simultaneously for corrosion to take place according to Boeing
1. The presence of anode and a cathode. This occurs when TWO DISSIMILAR METALS or two regions of differential electrolyte concentration create a difference in electrical potential.
2. A metallic connector between the anode and cathode
3. An electrolyte such as water (moisture)
Dissimilar metal contact cannot always be avoided because of weight, cost, and functional issues, but the potential for corrosion can be minimized by using surface treatments, plating, painting, and sealing. Water cannot be avoided, but it can be controlled with drain paths, drain holes, sealants, and corrosion inhibiting compounds. Controlling the presence of water is usually the most effective means of preventing corrosion.
Car Manufacturers are using Threadlocker, Adhesive & Retaining Compound to fill the microscopic gap to keep air/moisture out of the mating surface of dissimilar metals to prevent Galvanic/Contact Corrosion.
Science is awesome!
Thank you so much for this information, was almost at the point of giving up, took the pulley off and saw the keyway is broken
I just have a question surrounding the fasten of the pulley bolt, how do you get the crankshaft not to move
Counterhold tool. Year, make, model, engine?
Very nice.. Did the 3rd guy's engine work as well?
Yes, very lucky.
I got a new crank gear and bolt, drilled hole in gear, mounted on crank, drilled hole thru to crank, pinned, now not going to move.
Nice.
So, being an amateur who's knowledge of changing car parts begins and ends at basic maintenance, I decided to do my own timing belt. Horrible decision. Before I got the lower shield off, I had removed the timing belt from the upper pulleys. After removing the belt from the pulleys, I learned I had to remove the A/C pulley. Ended up turning the Crankshaft bolt counterclockwise before realizing I was turning the wrong bolt. This however, also turned the cam shaft pulley even with the belt off, luckily I had marked where that was at before belt removal. Can I turn the crank and cam pulleys separately back to their starting positions? Or if the crank turned the cam without the belt will turning one pull the other back to where it started. Finding any kind of repair manual has been a nightmare and there are no instructions for these kind of things. This is on a 2015 VW Jetta TDI s.
2015 TDI is common rail engine. Manuals can be downloaded from the dealer website.
erwin.vw.com/erwin/showHome.do
Special tools are required to lock the camshaft, crankshaft and injection pump.
I just looked up the price of the gear, and it's quite cheap so def changing that next time i change the timing belt on my AAZ engine. Hopefully that can also fix some of the wobble of the gear
The wobble in the crank pulley is usually due to the pulley, not the gear... unless the gear is loose / worn.
Hi there,
I'm looking for a video to show how to replace crankshaft seal (timing belt side) on a 1.9 TDI (BXE) engine.
Apparently it needs a bespoke tool to hold the crank sprocket VW tool 3099?
Have you ever done similar video? Or how to use that tool?
Thanks.
I use something like this. 2 bolts hold it in place against the gear and then a long pry bar is used to hold the tool... while the bolt is turned / loosened.
ONLY loosen or tighten the bolt while the timing belt is still in place!!!!
shop.snapon.com/product/Specialty-Tools/Timing-Belt-Pulley-Holder-for-VW-Audi%C2%AE-%28Blue-Point%C2%AE%29/YA6760
@EXOVCDS thanks mate! Appreciate your reply. Will have to source that tool.. just cheaper eBay version Lol
Shame there's no video on you tube someone actually doing that seal with proper vag tool
Very helpful of you to buy and ship parts all the way to sweeden 👍, got me thinking - if my car ever breaks down would you do the same for me?
No problem... I always make sure I get paid before I spend money.
What a video. Awesome information :)
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Hey bud cheers for a great video, i have a t4 1.9td going to do the timing belt in a few days with crank pulley and seal, i was thinking of pinning the crank as a preventative, i did it before on a 1.9d but i cant find my reamer😂 wondering if the sprocket looks ok maybe a diamond washer and new bolt plus torqued properly should suffice? Cheers again
That's the way it should be done at every timing belt service.
@@EXOVCDS yep got all te bits ready, and some fresh transmission fluid, going to dowel the crank also me thinks, does the seal go all the way to the end or 1mm from the lip?
@JakTonge just past the chamfer.
Great tip! 👍
Thank you... and thank you for watching!
Hi, just watched this video, can anyone tell me the TORQUE of the crankshaft sprocket bolt
many thank's
Les
Different torque for gas & diesel engines. Can't look up torque spec in the service manual, if I don't know which engine.
I lined up my flywheel and top sprocket on valve cover and ignored the crankshaft position and tried it no start but then tried lining up the crankshaft and still nothing but crankshaft and flywheel doesn’t line up and my crankshaft gear is on there right I couldn’t even get it off because I’m ur last video I thought u took off inside volt but u did not it jus came off but figured that out but how would I line up camshaft gear and crank shaft
Year, make, model, engine?
1.9 ALH, nub on crank sprocket at 7 o'clock. There are three teeth at the top that have a dot on each. Is one of these dots TDC? I have an after market fly wheel and no marks on it. Thank-you, Nick
If the dimple is at 7 and the 12 & 6 o'clock pulley bolt holes are aligned as they should be, then the crank is at TDC (#1 & #4 pistons are at TDC).
@@EXOVCDS Thank-you Sir!! I really like your vids!!
Yup the hidden damaged crank gear. A guy with a tdi jetta was going to junk his car because of this gear, he found it and car is back on the road. 😆👍
Nice!
I have a 1998 1.9 AHU TDI that appeared jumped a tooth, so I put a new belt and tensioner on it today. Now with the timing marks aligned, it will not start.
After the timing marks shifted, It was running (poorly) and the exhaust was smoking with the mis-aligned marks.
What I don't understand is why it does not run with the cam, IP, and flywheel on the correct positions? I used the correct tools to lock the cam and pump. When I rotated the engine with the crank bolt and rechecked the belt timing everything lined up the way it should.
I did see the powdery rust colored dust in the harmonic balancer.
Would it be okay to use a high torque impact gun to remove the bolt while the timing belt is installed and fully tensioned?
Are the crank bolts known to break off in the nose of the crank or are they typically removed without damage to the crank itself?
Thanks for any help or advice! (I hope my valves didn't get damaged) I am very stressed out over this.
Thanks again for any response.
If belt tension was OK before you readjusted everything... then the reason for the misalignment was most likely due to a worn / broken crank gear (is in this video). Did you loosen the cam gear when adjusting belt tension? Is the cam gear tight again? Are you sure that the cam was locked at #1? The lock tool will fit when the cam is at either #1 or #4. Yes, you can use an impact to loosen / remove the crank bolt. It is best to do so when the belt is still attached (any movement of the crank will also move the cam, keeping things in time). I have never seen a crank bolt that has broken off or broke off during removal. I would remove the bolt (with the engine set at #1 TDC) and then remove the timing belt, so that crank gear can be removed & inspected.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you for your response.
I rechecked the timing marks with all three places: Flywheel, cam lock plate and IP pin lock. Everything is staying in correct time.
I did verify that the cam is timed on cylinder number one. (During the T-belt install, the cam gear was loosened and retorqued per the Bentley manual)
So I decided to do a compression test since the belt seems to be keeping the correct timing. I found cylinder one has low compression (100 psi), 2,3,&4 all were good at 450 psi.
I am still confused why it won't start and run on the three good cylinders.
To give a little more history on the car, It has about 450K miles on the engine, it has been well maintained over that time. It was running great with no issues whatsoever until Saturday morning when I started it. I heard an unusual mechanical noise and it was running very rough and the exhaust smoking badly. I turned it off to look under the hood and do a visual inspection for anything obvious. I didn't see anything so I unclipped the upper timing cover to check the belt condition, I restarted it and watched the belt closely for damage. As I let it run, it began running better but still smoking. I connected my Snap-on Modis to check for codes and read the data.
I let the engine warm up enough that I could check the pump timing with the scanner. It showed the same timing values as when it was running good.
I noticed the injector data was showing negative values on number one and higher positive values on injector number two.
Sorry for the crazy-long paragraph, but I am trying to give as much info as possible.
Thanks again for your help. What do you think is preventing it from starting?
@@davidparker9676 I'm not sure... yes, one would think that it should start & run with 3 good cylinders. Loosen one of the injector lines and confirm that fuel is pumping out while cranking the engine. If yes (and assuming that the injectors are spraying) then they must be spraying at the wrong time... but, like you said, you have already rechecked cam / crank / pump timing. In the past, I have come across cam & crank at #4 TDC with the injection pump at #1... I just wanted to be sure that that was not the case. If it wants to start / run with Diesel Starting Fluid... then that confirms lack of fuel / incorrect pump timing.
I'm using a Peugeot 406 condenser and a Mercedes compressor for my audi A6 2005 model. The AC do work and stop frequently. Please what can I do?
Check the HVAC system for fault codes.
Thomas, I'm replacing my crank gear, I found a Billet harmonic balancer, 1/2 the weight of stock, with built in p/s pulley. Is Underdrive, with serpintine and vbelt belts for Underdrive. Is the ABA engine Internal or external balanced? Worth the $? My harmonic balancer is old.
Do what you feel is best... we don't install aftermarket / performance parts. Sounds like that setup might have some benefits. Not sure how much vibration will be evident with lack of dampener.
I'll look up to see if ABA2.0 is Internal balance.
There is no balance shaft... if that's what you mean.
Thomas you really are a life saver for us 2.0 guys ! I have a 2.0 ABA 97 GTI that has a wobbly crankshaft pulley. I plan on doing my timing belt soon and will definitely check this out and replace while I'm down there, but I'm thinking if it is indeed the crankshaft pulley/balancer that is the issue, I'm trying to prepare to replace that as well. I can't for the life of me find a OE or even OEM balancer online anywhere. (I also noticed they are around $500 yikes) Seems like my only option is to go with a billet aluminum one that I found. Not underdrive, same size, but it is lighter with no rubber layer. Do you think that would be okay running with an otherwise stock engine?
Yes, will be fine. I don't think the increase in vibration will be too drastic / noticeable.
@@EXOVCDS what causes the crankshaft pulley to wobble? Is it the pulley itself or could it be the timing gear? Also I have a squeak from the timing belt in the lower part of the engine. I took both the serpentine belts off and the noise was the Same. You can hear it only at idle. It has a new tensioner too. I checked all of the timing marks and it’s spot on. I also remember to place the spacers behind the lower timing belt cover. It’s just weird. It’s a 96 od2 aba with 222k mi. Also It has an early rev limiter at 5k. No codes except the evap system. I blocked off the hose.
Did you ever figure it out?
The pulley is metal & rubber bonded together. Over time the rubber deforms and causes a wobble.
@@EXOVCDS thank you for the quick reply and info! I used to have my power steering belt as tight as I could get it. It would sound like a guitar string. That might be one of the reasons it’s got a wobble
Hey, having a problem where my timing belt starts tracking towards passenger side, causing it to rub/catch on the crank pulley. Any idea what could cause that?
Year, make, model, engine? Before or after belt replacement?
@@EXOVCDS Mk4 2.0 - I replaced the replacement tensioner and belt and made sure it was correctly tensioned. Then I cranked it by hand only after having installed the crank pulley, and everything’s fine. Maybe because I hadn’t put the belt on all the way back or because I turned the engine over like 50 times by hand to check timing w/o crank pulley? Not sure, but will keep an eye on the belt to make sure it doesn’t start rubbing again.
@@EXOVCDS after belt replacement. But works now, not sure why.
Does this apply to the MK6 as well ?
It could apply to any vehicle... but I have not seen it on mk5 or newer (yet). It's always a good idea to check / replace the bolt / seal to reduce the risk of them failing, when doing a timing belt replacement.
Hi Thomas. I recently did a timing belt change on my MK4 in order to replace water pump . I noticed the cam and the torture converter marks were never lined up. Instead, when the cam mark lines up, the torque converter mark is by 3-5mm. I have checked the timing belt tensioner, and it's well tensioned and no sort of movement when the belt was about being installed to suggest the slight offset on the marks. Is this normal or the marks must line up perfectly at all times? Secondly, my engine went off while on the road due to overheat. I had oil (ATF) leaks around torque converter area as well engine oil leaks at the intake manifold area. Attempts to start the car immediately failed. The car was towed and on getting home, I attempted to start the car and it started. What should I look out for that may have been damaged as result of this incident. Thanks.
TDC marks should pretty much line up... set the crankshaft (torque converter) to TDC. If the cam mark is 180 out, turn the crankshaft another full turn until the crank mark is back at the top. Send pictures so that I can see how far out the marks are. Click the fkh161 link in the description and then click "tool request". If the lines were aligned after the belt was replaced and they were still lined up after turning the engine / crankshaft 2 turns... but are not aligned now, it could be that the crank gear has shifted.
Thomas, what can cause a no start on an 1.9 TDI, motor code is AXR. It's a PD. My father jumped the battery with cables and it started but what could cause the battery draw?
Battery draw could be because of a number os issues... slow cranking in itself can cause a no-start. 280 rpm of minimum rotational speed is required, if I remember correctly.
Have you ever seen an oval sprocket ? I found one in a VW passat b8 TDI , Is it normal ?
@@ionutvilsan
Yes, they are designed like that.
@@EXOVCDS thanks . I will try to explain that to the mechanic. do you have any official info regarding that ? for the 2.0 TDI CUAA engine 240 bhp
Page 10 in this link.
www.scribd.com/document/683977669/SSP-547-The-2-0-l-176-kW-TDI-Biturbo-Engine-from-the-EA288-Diesel-Engine-Family
Crank gear holding tool needs to "slide" onto the gear teeth. Can not be "placed" onto the gear teeth from above.
If that's the issue he's having.
Correct tool is also important.
Hi Thomas. Thank you for all your great videos and tips.. I've run into at problem where my car a 2004 Skoda Octavia 1.8T (same as an Audi A4 1.8T) is overheating.
I had a leak from my flange (with the 3 hoses to it) and i've changed it and there is no more leaks from the car. But my problemes did not go away.
Like you're saying in your clips there are som basic things that we should try, so the situation is as following .
The container where i put the coolent, i can blow in the top hose (the return hose) and i've get NO restriction and see bobbles when i blow into it.
When the car is idle i can see, that there is liquid comming from the hose (so it should be a waterpump problem, right?)
My radioter hoses (top and bottom) both gets warm and the radiator also gets hot in the top and the bottom..
Both of my fans are working and they start when the overheating is starting. The stange thing is, that my climatronic no longer gives any heat and only blows cold air into the cabin??
I can't figure it out, so was hoping you could give me an advice?
If all you had was a leak (with no overheating issue)... but after you fixed the leak you now have an overheating issue, you might have an air pocket in the engine... preventing the coolant from circulating correctly through the engine & the heater core. Do you know any history about the water pump? Original? If it was changed in the past... metal or plastic impeller? The pump could stop pumping coolant when the coolant gets hot (impeller come loose).
@@EXOVCDS - I did have a overheating issue, that's when i discovered the issue with the leak (didn't notice it before) - I do not know the history with the water pump - but i was quick to guess that it was not the problem when i had fluid in the returnhose in idle and when i put it to 2.5k revs..
What will cause the Clilmatronic to stop producing heat? - Can it also be an air pocket in the engine, and what can i do to remove it?
Thx for your constant help of all us viewers - You're awesome man :-)
Climatronic or not... the heater core should be an open system (no coolant flow control valve). Meaning that the heater core should always be warm / hot... as long as coolant is circulating through it. The best way to fill a cooling system (to insure that there is no air in the system), is to use an air lift / vacuum fill tool. If you do not have access to one of those, open the system in various places (by disconnecting / lifting hoses from what they are connected) to check that coolant is present. I am not sure if the Octavia has specific bleeder valves that need to be opened. If the heater core hoses are within easy reach, pull them off of the core pipes one at a time and check that coolant is present. Use a scan tool to verify coolant temperature... since a fault with the temperature sensor could cause the instrument cluster temperature to report higher than actual temperature. If the ECM coolant temperature is the same as that what the instrument cluster is reporting, then that is a verification that the engine is in deed running hot. Allowing the engine to cool several times after getting to operating temperature, can give the engine time to circulate / bleed the air out into the coolant reservoir (flood level will drop as the engine / coolant cools). Once the level stabilizes, odds are that the level is now good / correct.
@@henrikbork7647 Not enough coolant or too much water, Faulty thermostat and Faulty Coolant cap not holding enough pressure.
@@w0lvez1 Mixed the coolant 50/50 and when bleeding i topped it off so it was in the middel of min/max.. Didn't think about the cap though.. when my top and bottom hoses both are getting warm, can it still be the thermostat then?
I have a mk4 gti 1.8t how do you take that gear off?
Remove the bolt that holds it to the crankshaft. You'll need to hold the gear with a counter hold tool... so you can loosen the bolt. Once the bolt is loose, the timing belt can be removed. With the belt off, remove the bolt and the gear. Always replace the bolt! It's a stretch bolt and can only be used once.
Is the crank sprocket bolt reusable? Seems that most bolts are stretch bolts and non-reusable on this car.
Should not be reused... as it is a stretch bolt.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for your fast reply. Diagnosing a no-start and just inspected the gear today. It looks good, so I'll move forward once I get a new bolt. Thank you for making these videos. They're very helpful.
Year, make, model, engine?
@@EXOVCDS 1995 VW Jetta. ABA 2.0L M/T. Engine has spark and fuel. Have not done a compression test after replacing the head gasket.
@@PSIRockinOmega No start after head gasket change / it ran fine before? Set the engine to TDC #1 and send me pictures of cam TDC, crank (flywheel) TDC & distributor Rotor positions.
Also the Aaz right?
Yes.
@@EXOVCDS Thomas EXOVCDS thanks! Love all your videos man! Ripping apart an AAZ tomorrow, left us high and dry in California on the way back to Ontario. I suspect it might be this sheared cog but not sure. It's strange because Cam timing marks line up with TDC on the flywheel. But we had zero compression (0 psi) on number 2 cylinder. No white stuff in the oil or tell tale signs of head gasket problems.
@@EXOVCDS ruclips.net/video/pmHdbM-lQ0o/видео.html. -- check the video if you have time I'd really appreciate any help you have
@@Festethejeste Just left a comment under your video... I guess I'm wrong (about valves) if you don't have compression on #2. Or was that based on "feel" when turning the engine by hand? What lead up to this no start? Power loss or just decided not to start one day... or quit while driving?
Thanks dear Thomas for ur video
Please can you provide me pictures for VW golf gti 2012 timing marks
Thanks in advance
ruclips.net/video/7tMpL2UKn2o/видео.html
You can remove your email address from your post.
Yes sure
@@magid5441 Did you watch the video? The timing chains are marked. As long as the marks are lined-up, timing should be ok.
@@magid5441 Here's another one:
ruclips.net/video/2ei-mdwbRsI/видео.html
heyy thomas how do you remove the crankshaft gear? i need to remove the seal but how do i lock the gear with out moving since it's not the same as the cam or intermediate shaft?
i need to remove the stretch bolt
@@jesdiaz11 Year, make, model, engine?
I use something like this (attaches to crank gear with 3 crank pulley bolts) to hold the crank gear (with a long breaker bar), so that I can break the crank gear bolt loose... with a long breaker bar.
www.toolsource.com/vw-tools-c-1321_831_847/vwaudi-timing-belt-pulley-holder-p-103975.html
There are many other "counter hold tools" that function the same.
kinda wanna go cheap so i put 3 crank pulley bolts and with a pry bar i lean it on the bolts than loosen bolt sorry i have a mark 3 jetta 2.0 aba 5 speed trans
@@jesdiaz11 the bolts themselves might bend under the stress, if not used with a tool... but can work. If you have spare M8x1.25 (I think that's the correct size & thread pitch), then use those instead of the stock pulley bolts.
You can also put a 19mm 12 point socket on a long breaker bar, put the socket on the bolt and rest the bar handle on the ground. Bump the starter with a jumper wire... the starter will break the bolt loose. I only recommend doing so if you know what you are doing.
okay thank you so much! i appreciate it, but if i use that tool you dropped the link too it would be way more easier wouldn't it? but i would also save some money in these harch times haha
Ha ha the severed thumb, classic :-D
I don't know, crap german engineering he he :)
15 mins is not long, your audience must have the attention span of a cat :)
2min 30sec is the "average" view time of my videos. =(
I have to get sponsors, so that I can promote products in order to raise the view time. Guess people don't want to see 30min step-by-step transmission removal videos. =(
Removing the mad graphics when using a hammer or impact tool may annoy people less.
But that's just my annoyance.
Serious and down to the point should interest people.
If it don't, you have a very odd audience, me included ha ha :-D
@@zx8401ztv My audience (for the most part) watch because they have a problem they want to fix (as seen by the view count of my popular videos). They don't have the patience to ask me questions (even though I reply fairly quickly in most cases). Because my videos are not DIY videos & they (viewers) don't have any hands-on experience working on cars, they skim through my videos hoping to find the info they need. The graphics are there to reduce the level of boredom in my longer videos. If I change to standard RUclips Automotive DIY channel format, you will see less step-by-step & more product placement videos... less help in the comment section and less helpful videos overall. After the first year on youtube I said I would not go that route... I might just have to after all. =(
I must be really odd then, i'm not watching to find anything, i don't own a car, and i'm not a mechanic.
Mechanical videos are interesting, it slaps the brain into thinking and maybe some info may sink in.
Ignore me as im not your core audience.
My new videos are watched by my subscribers... 5% of my views. 95% just watch the "popular" videos. I appreciate all views... I don't appreciate when they don't bother asking for help, when they don't like a video or can't find what they need / are looking for. Go through any of my videos and you will see that almost all comments get replies from me. I'm putting more effort into my channel than most... yes, if I changed my recording format, the channel would do better / grow more, but I can't... because I record while I'm at work (for now).
1st BOOM !!
LOL
Can't comment. Video too long. Fell asleep.
There's always one... ok, maybe 2 or 3. =)
I came back to post that when you say "Epoxy", you say it like Granny talked on the Beverly Hillbillies "Ceeeement pond" lol
Sorry, I think I've had too much slurpee. I'll show myself out.
@@BruceLyeg I think you meant Slurpeeeeeeeee!