VW 2.0L TDI CJAA Timing belt Tricks!
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- Опубликовано: 28 окт 2019
- Timing belt replacement on 2013 VW jetta tdi CJAA 2.0L TDI
couple tricks to save you some time and extra work.
Links
Tool kit
8MILELAKE Compatible with Audi and VW TDi Diesel Engine Timing Tool Kit www.amazon.ca/dp/B077PNDKXD/r...
T-belt kit
mecevo.com/parts/timing_belt_... 
Авто/Мото
Hi Just to add an update to my last comment. I completed the cam belt change earlier than expected, using your Tip of not removing the Engine mount. I used a 1/4 drive torque wrench with a 15 mm socket to which I reduced its length to approx 22mm, using both a hacksaw and a small sander, this then gave me access to the belt tensioner, the other rollers could be torqued with a normal 1/4 drive socket.
Because I am getting on a bit now ( 68 ) I decided to try to make the refitting of the belt that bit simpler for myself so If I may, I have listed below just what I did.
1/ I Moved the fuel filter to give me just that bit more room to work.
2/ I inserted the Crankshaft, Camshaft, and High pressure pump lock.
3/ Before removing the old CamBelt I marked the Cam and belt with 1 dot using Tipex ( typing correction fluid ) The High pressure pump with 2 dots on both belt and drive. the Crankshaft and belt with 3 dots using Tipex once again.
4/ I kept the replacement belt in the house at room temperature until it was needed, that way it seemed to be just that little bit more flexible.
5/ I transferred the Tipex dots to the edge of the new belt.
6/ I refitted the new Belt not forgetting to align the dots to the now loose CAM and High Pressure pump.
7/ Torqued the Cam, Hp pump, and Rollers etc.
8/ After torquing all of the Bolts and nuts ( Only after, ) I painted them with the same Tipex, ) just to remind me what I had done !!
9/ After removing the Crank, Cam and HP locks I turned the crank over 2 full turns, I then reinserted the Locks except the Hp pump Optically it was inline. All was fine thankfully-
10/ I refilled the Antifreeze before refitting all of the other bits this then gave the Antifreeze time to settle by itself, It still had to be topped up later when the Motor was Warm.
So that's about it , Once again I thank you Sir for your Super Video,
All the Very Best ,
Regards, Gareth
Awesome glad it worked out for you
And thanks for this amazing write up
I’m sure this information will help others!
Thanks again for the update
Excellent summary! Will the same to my 2013 MK6 Golf 2.0 TDI this summer for God willing! Thanks a lot and great job!
@@azizhachimi8744 Hi Manything Thanks for your kind comments. Please remember, the following. Don’t rush, take your time and be sure to have Good lighting it makes the job in hand much much easier. Good luck.
@@geetee27 Thank you!
Thank you for the tip, it saved me a lot of work and time. I hadn't done a timing belt in about 12 years... Took me about 7 hours, taking my time.
It's daunting at first, but once you do it once, it comes back to you the next time.
The tensioner / motor mount tip was clutch. Saved me a ton of time, thanks. There is no way to fit a torque wrench in there to properly torque the nut with the motor mount in the way though. I just did it by "feel" with my wrench.
That is a good brand of coolant, those Fuchs know their stuff
I have returned after a comment made an unbelievable 7 months ago and will do my timing belt, water pump, tensioner and pulley replacement this weekend. I have probably watched this video 5 times, read all the comments, have a few specs for torque...it begins.
Good luck just take your time and don’t over think it
@@ERAutomotive 10 hours later..that's right. I did ok. I didn't just have the timing belt, pulleys and water pump to do. I also had a tensioner and belt to replace but had no idea how dumb of an idea someone had to put the 13mm bolt in such an obscure place to change out the tensioner.
Now, I could have just spun the bolt off to have a new tensioner bearing, but I was motivated to see what I could do to beat a bad design at it's own game and not only loosened the bolt, I found a way to change the tensioner bolt without having to take anything else off or loosen anything else.
I'm at a point now where the belt is on and timing is checked.
I probably added an hour and half to my total time fixing a mistake. I got tired and with all the pin pushing and locking and unlocking the crank, I'd left a pin wedged in at the high pressure pump. It wasn't all the way through to the hole, so it started traveling down the pulley unnoticed (I know, but I'm not perfect, so that's how I picked to prove it this time.) I hear a pop, and am able to determine there was enough pressure on the pin and the pulley that the belt slipped one tooth.
When you have the cam and the crank timed and the fuel pump has slipped one gear, you loosen the bolts on it, shove the pin in then move the crank back to top dead center. If that doesn't make sense, when I took up the slack in the fuel pump pulley, almost to it's fullest, I checked time again on the cam and fuel pump, and though I couldn't insert the pin on the fuel pump, it was much closer to putting it in than it was when I jumped a tooth. Tomorrow I finish. I took a long time to do this job, but when you have more time than money...
Nice trick, I’ve been doing it the same way for years now with the tensioner stud but I use 2 nuts to remove and install it again. Takes me 3 hours to complete this timing belt job!
I've done a couple of these and the timing tensioner stud removal is the big win. Good video. Thanks for sharing.
Im currently removing the tensioner bolt. When removing, it comes out counter clockwise, correct?
Ive been at it for a bit now and can't remove it. If anyone could help, I would be grateful.
Thank you
It’s regular thread
Righty tighty
Lefty loosey
🤣🤣
thank you for explaining the diesel geek "pro" tip about the tensioner, i was very confused about how i was going to get the stud back in without messing up the threads!
Great trick with vice grip/tensioner stud....works for me.....
Thanks for this video. Done this three times before, but it's also been a minute, so i needed a refresher video. I, too, do the "expert" install with the belt tensioner. Wish it was that easy on the ALH!
Appreciate the video, ER-cheers!
Good info, thanks man
Nice video. thanks!
Can you list the tools needed aside from the specialty tools included with the kit? I’m trying to gather all the tools before I dive into the project.
Does no one use tip X anymore? I always found it a great back up .and peace of mind in case of sods law playing a part and a pin falling out or whatever.
That car is dope!
Thanks
This is exactly the trick I needed to not have to touch my less than ideal mounts 😅.
Should be able 2 change that roller without taking the belt off right?
Excellent tip and time saving trick,i am more than happy to follow your lead with the gripping the stud thread to remove and refit.How many miles are the Contitech timing belts good for
i have been told 100,000 KM OR 75,000 or every 6 years?
I believe that is the correct millage rating and what I’ll be using for my replacement schedule
Thanks bro.
Is there enough threads exposed on the tensioner to thread on two (or one maybe) thin nuts? That way they could be jammed together and use the back one to thread out the stud.
Yes there would be enough room to do that I believe
Thank you for your awesome video now I have more confidence to do it my self and save $1100. Now my question is how do you bleed the coolant. I’m more used to replacing timing belts in a Subaru and many civics and integra. Your insight will be highly appreciated😎
Basically once finished the job
Fill it up with coolant and run the engine with the coolant cap off till both rad hoses are hot/ reaches operating temp.
I appreciate you making the effort to do this, I have produce a few videos myself as a way to pay back. I have a 2012 VW Sportwagen that I'm doing this on in a few days and don't see much difference between the '12 and '13. I'm hunting the tools to lock everything in place and attempt to save about 1000.00 doing it. Where did you find your tools to do this? It was a hassle for me to find mine, they made a lot of them for other than a CJAA that weren't over 100.00 dollars. Thanks again, mod.
Thanks. And I was able to find the tools on amazon for about 25$ Canadian if I remember correctly. I’ll have to add a link to maybe help others find them easier
@@ERAutomotive I found a set, finally, on Ebay that I wasn't 100% sure of based on the description, so I wrote him and he said it would not only fit a CJAA, he owned one and did his repair with it.
www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Belt-Tools-Timing-Tools-FOR-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-Diesel-1-9-BEW-BRM-2-0-TDI-/302420118514
I'll report back here how it went.
Awesome video!! Really appreciate your in-depth guidance!! Can I ask where you got that tool kit?
Thanks for the feed back
I got the tool kit from amazon
There is a link to the one I ordered in the description
That description says it fits up to 2008. Mine is a 2014. It worked for you?
Yeah they worked for me
You didn’t have to use a camshaft holder tool to loosen the bolts on cam?? Doesn’t seem all that necessary but see others recommend it or use one.
Congrats for this nice vid and that great job! *** May I ask at what mileage did you change the timing belt, because I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 170K km and am planning to change the Cam belt at 185K km (120 k miles). It would also be MUCH appreciated if you can include a link to the HEPU timing belt kit and the special tools used during the procedure! Cheers from Montreal! Enjoy the summer!
Hi thanks Here a link for kit mecevo.com/parts/timing_belt_kitwaterpump_hepu_cr140_cbeacjaa.html. Can also get tool set from that site. Or here’s one from amazon same as I got 8MILELAKE Compatible with Audi and VW TDi Diesel Engine Timing Tool Kit www.amazon.ca/dp/B077PNDKXD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_thGYEbAQZ7V93
@@ERAutomotive Thank you very much for the quick answer! Have a good night!
Hi Many Thanks for the time that you spent making this video. It’s Great, I have one question though, Is there enough space to use a 1/4 Torque wrench on the rollers & the belt tensioner. I would appreciate your reply. All the Best from Germany.
Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate it.
Space is quite tight in there, that being said I believe if your torque wrench head is low profile I think it would just fit.
If not maybe a slight grind on your socket to make its shallower would do the trick.
Hope this help
Let me know if it works out for you
Hi once again thanks for your Super Quick reply. I plan to do the work in the next month or so , just waiting for the weather to get that bit warmer for me work under my Car Port. You can be sure though that I shall let you know the outcome on my 2012 Tiguan. Regards 👍👍
Awesome
Interested to see your results
We don’t get Tiguan tdis here :(
What are all the torque specs i’m having to do this on my 2011 sportwagen because the camshaft sensor went out
One last question.. What size was that Allen wrench you used on the tensioner? I seen the marks on the side but can’t make them out. Thanks for this video and getting ready to do mine! I also have a FSI Mark5 GTI. Subbed to the channel and interested in more of your content!!
Thanks and I believe the tensioner was 6 or 7 mm but I can’t remember now
@@ERAutomotive Thank you. I just found another video that he said 6mm Allen.. 🤙🏻
hey in the 1.6 tdi cayc skoda octavia 2 fl 2011 engine I have driven 89 thousand km and 9 years need to change the timing drive?
I would be
@10:45 - Let me help you do the water pump removal easier. Loosen mostly, but don't remove the three bolts. Use the pry bar on the sprocket and the bolt heads as the fulcrum point.
How much coolant does it lose? Trying to determine how much to order to do the job.
Order one concentrated jug and you’ll be good
nice shortcut, i bet techs do that. and nice rims.
Thanks
Yeah I’m sure they do
And thanks for the compliment on my wheels, There will be more videos after winter is over
@@ERAutomotive mine is coming up soon so ive got to save for parts. 96k on it now.
Right on
I had 180km when I finally did mine lol
Where did you buy that long 15mm wrench and about how long would you say that is?
My wrench’s are from Canadian tire
@@ERAutomotive Damn I’m having a hell of a time finding a long on like yours.
Really good tip on not removing the mount and engine bracket, that save a lot of time.. but and here is the concern, you can’t torque the new stud without room to bring in a torque wrench and you certainly can’t torque the 15mm nut on the new tensioner.. but if you’re not concerned about setting recommended specs or if you feel you can feel 20NM than this technique works fine.. also how many attempts did it take you to spin the motor over, set crank lock, check cam pin alignment, visually check the HPFP? I hear that takes a couple tries? And once you set the crank lock do you have a cam pulley counter hold tool to loosen the three slot bolts for fine adjustments. I have CJAA in my 2013 TDI sportwagen and at 91k miles I think I’ll do this job after knowing what tool kit to buy.. great video hope you or others can provide some help..
Thanks
And first try to spin it over
If you lock everything in the right place you’ll be good
You don’t need a cam holder to be able to loosen the 3 bolts in the cam pulley
They are not very tight
@@ERAutomotive thanks for reply!! I’m looking fwd to saving easily $1000. I forgot to ask when you set your tensioner did you take the pointer a little right of the gap to compensate for spinning the motor over? I couldn’t see your indicator after you did the final checks.. thanks again for posting good video!!
I set it right in middle of the marks on tensioner
Then double checked after turning it over and adjust as necessary
@@ERAutomotive This maybe a dumb question and after the facebook group bickering about 206k on oem belt or not I care not to ask on there. But does the tensioner move a little when cranking the motor over? Mine moves a bit especially when under load on the compression stroke (i assume).
I’ve never looked at it that closely
I set it
Turn over manually
And relock everything and double check the tensioner setting
Wait...you are doing this without taking off the engine mount? Wow...that is art...😎😎
Haha. Thanks
That is the “unofficial way.” Kind of like how we do not separate the transmission on 2.5’s when doing vacuum pumps.
Does anyone know if this trick works with the cbea engine as well? Everyone says they are pretty much the same motors but I’m about to order a timing belt and lock tool kit and was wondering if I would be able to save any time on mine as well?
Yes works on cbea as well
Awesome! Thanks for the quick response. I seen this video has been from awhile back so I was hoping someone commented fairly quickly!
Thanks for posting such an amazing video for this as well! I love how the vw community is always attempting to help one another out 💪🏻
is it pretty similar job to crua engine?
Yes I believe so
Do I need to prime anything other then the fuel after timing belt install?
No but bleed the cooling system since it was open during water pump replacement
@@ERAutomotive Thank you for your reply and input! How do I bleed the coolant? I left the lid open on the reservoir and added coolant and is still open to add more once started.
Once it runs leave cap off and run till thermostat opens
@@ERAutomotive right I did that before I tried to start her up. I’ll check coolant again when I go back out there to check her out.
I have the 2015 CVCA TDI Passat. I'm pretty sure the same procedures would apply. Do you agree? Mine is a 1 year only engine here in North America. I bought the car with 42K miles it had a small coolant leak. I found a very small crack in the water pump. Dealer replaced it under warranty. Car now has 62K miles and just outside or 12 month warranty on water pump. Car got into the red on a 20*F drive going 75 mph. Water pump shaft sheared from impeller. Dealer quoted me $1700 to replace water pump and wanted another $650 to replace timing belt. VWoA helped me and paid half so I still paid $800. Yje car only has 62K and it's on it's third water pump. The dealer told me the second pump was an already updated design. Is there a much better aftermarket water pump. The next time I will do myself!
Yes I believe the same procedure would apply to your car
Maybe some small differences
When u get your water pump make sure it has a metal impeller
Other then that sounds like some rotten luck
@@ERAutomotive Yep all 3 had the metal impeller.
Also my has the solenoid or electric clutch for faster warm ups.
@@Superduty_59 Oem ones have a plastic impeller and are recommended incase it breaks the plastic will do less damage to nearby parts..
@@hardcore4476 I know my older 2001 ALH TDI had a plastic impeller but not sure what year but my 2015 came with a metal impeller.
My car won’t start now that I replaced the timing belt. I followed every step I found on the internet and manually turned the engine to top dead center and made sure the tensioner was in the window before hooking everything back up. I primed the fuel lines but still not starting! Any ideas
Re center everything and verify everything lines back up ie put locks back in pump and cam and crank
Pump could be off
Is there an additional fuel pump I need to prime? I just primed one using xtool for vw skoda Audi. It only does 2 second intervals and did it like 30-40 times.
That should be all u need to do to prime the fuel
@@ERAutomotive I seen another video of a guy who said if the plug for pump isn’t in all the way or dust got in there that would cause it not to crank over. I’ll check that first and go from there. Thank you for your help and all your replies!! Have a great day.
Omg🤦♂️that's totally the wrong way to use that crank lock tool. It will never go into the sprocket teeth if you drop it in from the top. You gotta start it from the front of the sprocket, front meaning closer to you, or closer to the fender. I guarantee you any tool from ebay, Amazon, or wherever, WILL fit into all the teeth if you use it properly. Trust me, I've used the original dealership vag tool, I purchased an ebay kit, and an Amazon kit and they ALL happened to fit into the teeth but only because I started inserting the tool from the front of the sprocket, not the top. I read many reviews on Amazon of people using it your way and saying the tool is junk and don't work. I just laughed at every review after I proved any tool fits. I've done plenty of these to verify. Just got done doing a CJAA and ebay tools fit, Amazon tools fit, all the teeth completely. Anyway, hope the rest of your viewers read this and are able to use the tool correctly and it'll fit every time.. no joke. Great job on that shortcut trick, I'm gonna try that. Cheers
8:13 is wrong, you must mesh the teeth by pushing the tool into the motor as opposed to dropping it on the gear. Even if you have a cheap ebay tool it will fit by sliding it into the gear
Yes I know that but as u can see once it is in the hole for the pin it does not fit in all the teeth!
@@ERAutomotive the hole for the pin is a little oblong and will allow incorrect installtion. If you took the gear off the only way to fit the tool on the gear is sliding them together, the tool will never fit by pushing on even the vw tool, the way to put the tool in is to mesh the tool in right before the hole then push in as your rotating. I can show you a video but you dont need it for another 120k:D
Yeah I see what your saying. But I did try to just slide it in. And it meshes the same But next time
I will do it exactly that way
Also putting the tool on the gear a little then sliding it into the slot seems
Appropriate ??? It’s not like I put it in the hole and tried to wedge it into the gear
@@ERAutomotive ruclips.net/video/xjiiu23CRik/видео.html @1:55 in that video it shows, the fit is super tight and seens like the way you did it is the only way. Took me a while but if you push perfectly straight it goes in. Thanks for the video though real helpful!
you don't put the crankshaft locking tool on from the top.you slide it in. once its in you can't fit it up from the top.
Do you prime your fuel system?
Yes if you open it you should definitely prime
@@ERAutomotive What tool or device did you use to prime your fuel pump?
I used vcds
But I also have obdeleven
I have a video on doing it if you wanted to check out how to
@@ERAutomotive Right on. I want to get vcds down the road. I use Xtool I bought from Amazon for like 35$ and it primes the fuel pump and works on skoda’s VW and Audi.
What bbs wheels are these??
On the black car???
They are super RS reps
Yes
That tensioner stud should be made with a hex to use a wrench on at the base just before the other threading. 🤦🏼♂️ engineers.
8:13 .. incorect locking .. the tool is not fitted corectly ..
Cheap amazon kit >20$ canadain so yes it doesn’t fit 100% but it is in the slot and lines up the timing marks properly
All I need to do is heat and bend the tool so it fits in the teeth 100%
@@ERAutomotive You are supposed to slide in the tool not drop like you did, nothing wrong with the tool.
Yes I know but as u can see the tool has a different curve then the crank gear has and that’s the issue with the tool
@@ERAutomotive No you inserted your tool wrong, even the vw tool will do this when inserted incorrectly, the teeth have to mesh. You push the tool into the motor as opposed to dropping it on the gear. The difference is very small and as your running motor shows doesnt make a big enough difference to matter, that being said its still incorrect and could nade someones motor that has a bad tolerance stack.
There is a different tools some have different number of teeth depending on which engine . Keep a good eye on the marks 👍
Watching newbs work is so painful. You remove the engine mount entirely people. Jesus. Coolant bubble too and the fuel filter just sits out of the way on the valve cover.
Pretty handy for a millennial. We are not supposed to know about these things. Much less handle tools 😆
Haha. Helps when u go to trade school
ER Automotive We are unicorns in this industry. Wait till all the old guys start retiring.
Yeah ain’t that the truth. Sadly I got sick of flat rate and have since moved on from the trade as my day job. Still enjoy working on vehicles in my spare time tho.
ER Automotive Yeah flat rate can be tough. I worked the dealer circuit for over 7 years. Got burned out, took a breather, but cars kept calling. Ended up just going independent. No regrets!
That’s good to hear Yeah I still do a fair amount of work on the side still on my days off to keep my mind working
xDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD
Typical youtube video......just blow over the important steps