concise, great camera work, clear audio and straight to the point. A lot of other vids go on and on, but this is an excellent step by step tutorial of an otherwise intimidating job. Just bought a golf gtd 140 for the crack and looking forward to doing this job. To the team who put this together - excellent !
Put the front up on jacks and Flush water through the hole at the bottom behind the foam. Mine was filled with dirt and salt, you'll see it drain at the back wheels. I now clean it yearly and tape the gaps between the fender liner and fender. Did you remove the bottom portion of the foam?
First time I seen any of your videos but I want to say thank you you are the best mechanic on you tube for sure very detailed and to the book I will definitely recommend you to anyone who needs to see how a real mechanic dose it and not one cuss word very calm and you seem to love your job
Just came across this. Amazing! I was quoted $1900 from Eurofed Atl for this service (while it was in the middle of a motor replacement!!!... bad bottom end). I'm happy to see someone making a good video of this. It's a common service that is getting expensive and doesn't need to be, if you have the time. People made it out to be this really complex thing (STI spark plugs) and this shows it really isn't that bad; but if you don't know, you don't know. I hope to find one from you guys on the alternator (who's price surprised me!) and possibly a CP3 fuel pump ;) Solid vid, really helps the community!
Just did the alternator - best way I found was partial service position on the front clip and it’ll wiggle out with some aggressive pulling. A lot of the prep was similar to this.
By far the best tutorial I've seen on this subject. I may even do this service on my 2013 Golf TDI. I have a bit of wriggle room left with just 89k miles on the odometer. Thank you!
After watching, about 5-7 videos from others, and doing a timing set on my 2011 JSW, YT recommends this to me 2 days later... Thaaaaaanks. Good vid, a bit too late lol.
Great video, love you guys and use you for parts quite often, but I just wanted to let you guys know that the three bolts on the bracket to engine block that the engine mount secures too are in fact, torque to yield. 40nm plus 180°. The order is rear to front as well.
Awesome video, I came here because I'm thinking about getting a tdi 2.0. Never had one, but this procedure is just like my j35motor v6 honda. Thank you.
You stated the torque on the water pump bolts were 15nm but the screen showed 50nm. Which is the correct torque spec? (It's a 10mm bolt so most likely 15nm) but just wanted to clarify.
Super solid video. The crank bolts mentioned at 54 minutes, I can not see where the link was? I do not know what kind of bolts I will need on hand to replace that are 1 time use. Can anyone advise? Please and thanks in advance
Great video Michael.. followed it to a T and did my TB and all components on my CJAA TDI in my ‘13 Jetta sportwagen.. I did cam seal as well but everything else in this video is great detail and production.. best tutorial videos out there??
Great video! Only question I have is what is the point of the 5mm Allen that you had in the tensioner? I know you said it was to lock it down for clearance but I but I don’t understand why you needed to have it in if you snugged the tensioner nut down. I’d appreciate any feedback I just don’t want to mess anything up. Thanks !
@@thumper2692If you rotate the tensioner without the 5mm the belt gets tighter, if you rotate it with a 5mm in the slot the belt gets looser. The 5mm acts as a pin to attach internal components to exterior components. You are correct in suggesting that when the nut is snugged down the pin doesn't need to be there, but if you loosen the nut without holding both Allen keys in place the mechanism can violently slap back into its start position, since that's probably not good for the mechanism the pin stays in while you're putting the belt on. I just did the job last weekend if you have any more questions you can reply to this comment
@@thumper2692 and don't forget before you start make sure you have all of your TTY bolts, Harmonic balancer bolts Fuel pump sprocket bolts Camshaft sprocket bolts Tensioner stud and tensioner nut Large roller bolt Those are all one time use only. My kit didn't come with the high pressure fuel pump bolts and I had to leave the car disassembled in the driveway for a week waiting for parts
Great video. Is the additional tightening torque for the camshaft gear bolts +90 deg or +45 deg? Prior to doing it, you said +90 deg, but when you got to that point, you did +45 deg. I am just trying to verify what is the correct spec. Thank you in advance.
I just finished doing my timing on my 2014 Jetta TDI Sportwagen. I had the hardest time getting the new belt on (INF) with both small rollers off and the tensioner fully turned counter clockwise. Do some companies have different tolerances regarding their belts ? Honestly, the job in itself wasn't bad until it came to reinstalling the new belt.
Shoul I be able to start and run before I put timing cover back on. To check and make sure is right.... I did turn over. It didn't start. I resigned everything back up and put locks back in. They all match. Wanted to figure out why it won't start before I re assemble it. Ty😊
@fcpeuro thank you for the incredible video. I wouldn't have done it without you. I see at 32:33 on the screen it says 50nm but I think it should be 15nm. I checked the workshop manual and it says 15nm. I'm not sure if it is a typo. Please can you check.
Keep the foam. Clean it out after each winter and flush the rockers and inside of thw fender. Especially clean the top mounting ledge for the fender liner.
Nice quality work. I don't think any of the timing fasteners will be TTY. Just because the torque spec calls for torque plus angle does not mean it is actually taken to its yield point. It is just a more accurate way of achieving a clamping force. VW wants you to replace every bolt and screw that come off the car. Most shops would reuse such hardware if it was in good condition.
Make sure you are on the correct stroke of TDC, and recheck your work! If the old belt is still on, make sure all your marks line up and the timing was correct before taking everything apart.
The repair manual says to set the belt tensioner to the other side of the notch, I thought it sat in the middle too, I looked it up in the repair manual and learned I was innocent also the final position of the top cam and fuel pump in relation to the slots is not important, they are “floating” by design to allow slight adjustment on fitting, as long as the crank, cam and fuel pump are set correctly with pins/marks the final position of these adjustable slots are not important… you didn’t replace the stud on the bottom roller either, I’m sure the timing belt kit comes with a replacement stud for this roller…
For the love of god, please correct the screen text torque on the water pump bolts. I took screenshots as I was going through this at work, and I’m now having to replace those bolts because they do NOT like 50Nm.
@41:15 - You didn't lock the three bolts on the cam nor the fuel pump bolts before doing the test rotations? wtf? @45::18 - Do you know how you can break the TDC indicator tab on the hpfp? Doing like you are doing without a counter hold. I see it a lot with inexperienced wrench monkeys.
replacing or rebuilding the engine is a lot more expensive. also you can get "lesser" kits that just have the belt, tensioner, and water pump. it's strongly advised to just spring for the full one though (as someone who did just that) because of all the other bits that add up. roller/idler bearings, all the torque-to-yield fasteners that need to be replaced each time, etc.
If there is an award for the best car maintenance video, this one should take the first place
😅😊
I agree. Great job!
Yup excellent videos, I get all the parts for my crappy German cars from fcp
Just finished the timing belt on my 2011 Golf TDI. I bought the FCP kit, and I could not have done it without this video! Thank you, my friend!
concise, great camera work, clear audio and straight to the point. A lot of other vids go on and on, but this is an excellent step by step tutorial of an otherwise intimidating job. Just bought a golf gtd 140 for the crack and looking forward to doing this job. To the team who put this together - excellent !
Pulled my foam out in front wheelwell. It was soaked and we havent had rain for a month. This was one of the greatest diy vids my eyes ever did see!!
Put the front up on jacks and Flush water through the hole at the bottom behind the foam. Mine was filled with dirt and salt, you'll see it drain at the back wheels. I now clean it yearly and tape the gaps between the fender liner and fender.
Did you remove the bottom portion of the foam?
@ i removed all of it. It was a big chunk
Before i read any of these other "positive" comments i was also taken by how good this video is, very concis
really impressed with how much he explains every step thats professionally done awesome job
First time I seen any of your videos but I want to say thank you you are the best mechanic on you tube for sure very detailed and to the book I will definitely recommend you to anyone who needs to see how a real mechanic dose it and not one cuss word very calm and you seem to love your job
i'm tackling this in the next few weeks and this just gave me the confidence i needed... THANK YOU
Just came across this. Amazing! I was quoted $1900 from Eurofed Atl for this service (while it was in the middle of a motor replacement!!!... bad bottom end). I'm happy to see someone making a good video of this. It's a common service that is getting expensive and doesn't need to be, if you have the time. People made it out to be this really complex thing (STI spark plugs) and this shows it really isn't that bad; but if you don't know, you don't know.
I hope to find one from you guys on the alternator (who's price surprised me!) and possibly a CP3 fuel pump ;)
Solid vid, really helps the community!
Just did the alternator - best way I found was partial service position on the front clip and it’ll wiggle out with some aggressive pulling. A lot of the prep was similar to this.
I love this guys tutorials. Awesome video!👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it! We really do appreciate the support!
By far the best tutorial I've seen on this subject. I may even do this service on my 2013 Golf TDI. I have a bit of wriggle room left with just 89k miles on the odometer. Thank you!
💙
After watching, about 5-7 videos from others, and doing a timing set on my 2011 JSW, YT recommends this to me 2 days later... Thaaaaaanks. Good vid, a bit too late lol.
Amazing video!!! I have to do the High pressure pump on mine. This was way more than helpful. Im so confident I can do this!
Just ready to purchase a 2014 jetta tdi that needs a timing belt. Many thanks for the thorough vid. Will probably save me over 1k cad at least.
I like how relaxed and not much explanation but straight to the point.
JUST as MK6 JETTA 1.6TDI
💙
Bonjour , merci pour cette très belle vidéo qui m'a beaucoup aidé a faire ma distribution.
Pour le couple de serrage de la pompe à eau c'est 15nm .
Does this match the Ckra engines as well (passat tdi)
Great video, love you guys and use you for parts quite often, but I just wanted to let you guys know that the three bolts on the bracket to engine block that the engine mount secures too are in fact, torque to yield. 40nm plus 180°. The order is rear to front as well.
Would really like to see how to replace the camshaft seal. It comes with the kit but I'm not sure how to go about replacing it.
Awesome video, I came here because I'm thinking about getting a tdi 2.0. Never had one, but this procedure is just like my j35motor v6 honda. Thank you.
💙
Really good video. FYI on the crank lock; it slides straight in, so the teeth of the tool and the teeth of the sprocket fully engage.
@29:16 - is 20 NM definitely the correct torque spec?
You stated the torque on the water pump bolts were 15nm but the screen showed 50nm. Which is the correct torque spec? (It's a 10mm bolt so most likely 15nm) but just wanted to clarify.
Super solid video. The crank bolts mentioned at 54 minutes, I can not see where the link was? I do not know what kind of bolts I will need on hand to replace that are 1 time use. Can anyone advise? Please and thanks in advance
Great video Michael.. followed it to a T and did my TB and all components on my CJAA TDI in my ‘13 Jetta sportwagen.. I did cam seal as well but everything else in this video is great detail and production.. best tutorial videos out there??
Excellent presentation keep up the good work god bless you
Good video i watched it with ear buds late at night . What is that music that is not needed
Perfect job ,thanks.
Great video! Only question I have is what is the point of the 5mm Allen that you had in the tensioner? I know you said it was to lock it down for clearance but I but I don’t understand why you needed to have it in if you snugged the tensioner nut down. I’d appreciate any feedback I just don’t want to mess anything up. Thanks !
@@thumper2692If you rotate the tensioner without the 5mm the belt gets tighter, if you rotate it with a 5mm in the slot the belt gets looser. The 5mm acts as a pin to attach internal components to exterior components.
You are correct in suggesting that when the nut is snugged down the pin doesn't need to be there, but if you loosen the nut without holding both Allen keys in place the mechanism can violently slap back into its start position, since that's probably not good for the mechanism the pin stays in while you're putting the belt on. I just did the job last weekend if you have any more questions you can reply to this comment
@@thumper2692 and don't forget before you start make sure you have all of your TTY bolts,
Harmonic balancer bolts
Fuel pump sprocket bolts
Camshaft sprocket bolts
Tensioner stud and tensioner nut
Large roller bolt
Those are all one time use only. My kit didn't come with the high pressure fuel pump bolts and I had to leave the car disassembled in the driveway for a week waiting for parts
Great video. Is the additional tightening torque for the camshaft gear bolts +90 deg or +45 deg? Prior to doing it, you said +90 deg, but when you got to that point, you did +45 deg. I am just trying to verify what is the correct spec. Thank you in advance.
Camshaft sprocket bolts are +90 and so is everything else except for the tensioner nut. Tensioner nut is 15ft lbs +45
I just finished doing my timing on my 2014 Jetta TDI Sportwagen. I had the hardest time getting the new belt on (INF) with both small rollers off and the tensioner fully turned counter clockwise. Do some companies have different tolerances regarding their belts ? Honestly, the job in itself wasn't bad until it came to reinstalling the new belt.
Shoul I be able to start and run before I put timing cover back on. To check and make sure is right.... I did turn over. It didn't start. I resigned everything back up and put locks back in. They all match. Wanted to figure out why it won't start before I re assemble it. Ty😊
@fcpeuro thank you for the incredible video. I wouldn't have done it without you. I see at 32:33 on the screen it says 50nm but I think it should be 15nm. I checked the workshop manual and it says 15nm. I'm not sure if it is a typo. Please can you check.
Nice work John! And go with what Mike said, 15NM!
How do you know where to put the sharpie/blue tape on the crank sprocket tools fresh out of the box?
There are marks on the tools already. He just added paint to the existing marks for increased visibility.
Keep the foam. Clean it out after each winter and flush the rockers and inside of thw fender. Especially clean the top mounting ledge for the fender liner.
Is this job similar to the 2015 MK7 VW Golf TDI ? Excellent video ! Would like to see more TDI videos on 09 Jetta TDI and 2015 Golf TDI.
if the tdi has a timing belt it'll be very similar. my mk7 (albeit a gti) has a timing chain.
Thank you 🙏 😅
This is terrific.
Best video ever! Thank you so much. I will share with all vw guys.
Nice quality work. I don't think any of the timing fasteners will be TTY. Just because the torque spec calls for torque plus angle does not mean it is actually taken to its yield point. It is just a more accurate way of achieving a clamping force. VW wants you to replace every bolt and screw that come off the car. Most shops would reuse such hardware if it was in good condition.
I can't find a cta 2777 kit only a 2775?
you might want to edit at the point the annotation says 50Nm for the water pump bolts !
exactly, it's 15nm!
They’re small bolts so would never be able to get to 50NM.
Do the sprockets HAVE to be centered?
On the adjustment bolts? No, as long as the pins go back in after two rotations you're good.
This video should’ve been made several years ago
💙😅
Where do you get the coolant fill/vacuum tool
This is the one we use in the video and offer online! www.fcpeuro.com/products/airlift-ii-cooling-system-filler-kit-uview-uv550500
What do i do if i have the crankshaft locked into top center but the pin won’t go in the camshaft?
Make sure you are on the correct stroke of TDC, and recheck your work! If the old belt is still on, make sure all your marks line up and the timing was correct before taking everything apart.
my good people
No Loctite on the nut?
well done
Amazing Video, save me so much time. Can you guys do the timing for a MK7 GTI, that would be awesome.
Thank you
On our queue!
good video
The repair manual says to set the belt tensioner to the other side of the notch, I thought it sat in the middle too, I looked it up in the repair manual and learned I was innocent also the final position of the top cam and fuel pump in relation to the slots is not important, they are “floating” by design to allow slight adjustment on fitting, as long as the crank, cam and fuel pump are set correctly with pins/marks the final position of these adjustable slots are not important… you didn’t replace the stud on the bottom roller either, I’m sure the timing belt kit comes with a replacement stud for this roller…
I like how quiet my mk4 wagon is with the muiticolored carpet layer between the panels and regular carpet so I'd say keep that foam
I was informed that's the belt change is at 180,000km and i saw a bulletin from vag Czech Republic that they are able to go to 320,000km
For the love of god, please correct the screen text torque on the water pump bolts. I took screenshots as I was going through this at work, and I’m now having to replace those bolts because they do NOT like 50Nm.
Isnitcsame as 2.0 tdi t5 2012
@41:15 - You didn't lock the three bolts on the cam nor the fuel pump bolts before doing the test rotations? wtf?
@45::18 - Do you know how you can break the TDC indicator tab on the hpfp? Doing like you are doing without a counter hold. I see it a lot with inexperienced wrench monkeys.
Did you finish the video? He definitely tightened them down before rotating
@@thumper2692yeah he definitely did stage 1 torque before testing for interference
that Volkswagen Mk6 TDI Timing Belt Kit is ridiculously expensive!
replacing or rebuilding the engine is a lot more expensive. also you can get "lesser" kits that just have the belt, tensioner, and water pump. it's strongly advised to just spring for the full one though (as someone who did just that) because of all the other bits that add up. roller/idler bearings, all the torque-to-yield fasteners that need to be replaced each time, etc.
It's about 260$. You can't afford that over the next 125K miles/10 years? That's about $26 a year.
I got mine for £185 cheapest kit
I think I'm better off, just buying a new car. Mechanics want around 2k for this repair, not including part cost..
Vw gti Plastic toys only good for 50.000 if your lucky
Weird my 17 gti has 140k andnis stage 2 with is38 works fine. 😅
Sir this is a TDI
How much room for error when readjusting cam gear and injection pump gear?