I use AMS oil in my 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, 5-speed stick. I bought the car new in 2003, and it now has 407000 miles on it. It has been the best, most reliable car I have ever owned. I wish I could buy a new one now.
Hi, this is a really great video and love to see that people use TDI's in the US. One advice that many people give here en Europe is that basically buy a Diesel car if you do long drives and buy gasoline for short drives. Short drives on diesel don't let the engine get to operational temps, and so you get carbon problem on the exhaust and emition systems. So here I have a few tips for diesel cars: - If you do short drives, try to do a longer (20min on highway for example) on the weekends and/or don't be shy on the revs. - For the turbo and engine care, use the specific oil that the manufacturer recommends (referring to viscosity and saps quantity) as a high ashes oil has a negative impact on the DPF (it gets clogged), also waiting for a minute after starting the car and before shutting it off is very good, especially after highway use, as it gives time for the engine to cool down a bit, and the oil flow helps the turbo to cool down, if you don't wait, the oil in the turbo basically gets toasted and carbon gets formed inside the turbo, degrading the engine oil and the turbo quicker than usual. - Do change the diesel filter regularly, generally is done every other oil change, this is very important as injectors are very fragile and the filter cost is like 5 bucks. Keep up the nice content !!!
I find it completely insane how precisely VW scheduled maintenance can advise preventive maintenance. "84,000: check rear windshield wiper sprayer" At exactly 84,200, the rear windshield wiper sprayer hose breaks." Now if we could open source the service manuals....
I actually found all of the factory service manuals in a google drive folder, I'll see if I can link it in the description. Ithas Bentley's and factory files. It's a lot of information. Also, 192k and no issues with the wiper sprayer. Same goes for my dad's 06 Jetta at 253k, my girlfriends Rabbit at 223k. It's a check, not an expected lifespan. Though, if you were very particular about things, I suppose it's not a bad item to get out of the way. They will eventually lose pressure.
ElsaWin is your friend. Google it and you'll find it and how to use/install. You americans treat these tractor engines as the last coke in the desert. It's quite funny.
Spot on TDI, I have first gen Tiguan 2.0 TDi. It has 330 000km now 11 years old manual transmission. Not a days problem. Still on original clutch, recently did the 3rd cambelt chsnge. no DPI issues yet. I am happy with the ROI.
@@eurodriven2507 Here we don't have Jettas, and Passat anymore the last was a Jetta 6, the small SUV We have these TDi , Caddy 7 seater and panel van, Tiguan and Toureg, although with newer models the manual transmission are becoming scarcer, except the caddy manual Tdi common.
I'm 2 days post pothole on my '12 JSW, and it's so much better, even at stage 0.5. I'm just under 116k, so next up is the timing belt, and CP3 conversion. I plan on driving this car until it turns to dust.
I've had a mk1 diesel and 3 TDIs. Great cars. I currently have a mk7 with 110K on it. I purchased my mk4 new in 2001 and sold it with just shy of 400K miles on it. That thing was a tank!
great video brother. im on my 8th tdi rn. porsche cayenne diesel w a big turbo, so much fun while getting great mpg. i would also recommend the m57 in the 335D and x5D
3:13 Another good place to get diesel that is typically cheaper is MFA stations most are card only though but they are usually 5-15 cents cheaper per gallon than in town stations and 15-30 cents cheaper than Truck stops and other highway exit stations. The diesel is typically fresh because farmers go through a lot of diesel
Definitely helped me. I’m going to look at purchasing my first vw, (2012 tdi golf 2 door hatch) I travel 70 miles one way for work and been a die hard ford man, currently in a 08 focus she’s at 233k been a heck of a car but I’ve always wanted a tdi and the 2.0 is getting a little weaker (and burning oil). This one’s an old friend from school that’s a vw fanatic it’s has the “preventive maintenance” items done stuff has fallen off resulting in better fuel economy. Almost a no brainer for what it’s worth.
My girlfriend gave me her MK6 Golf TDI but one of the issues I have faced is that it needs VCDS software if you are mechanical inclined an issue never had when owning a Honda or Subaru😮. My DPF clogged so I remove it and soaked with DPF flushed for over 24 hrs. Now I need to replace the valve cover and here is the need for VCDS to prime the diesel system after the replacing the valve cover. Having the VCDS and windows laptop will save you money otherwise you be paying 170 bucks for diagnostics or even more at the dealership. Buy it at Ross-Tech and followed their forum for reference!
Bought my mk6 Jetta at 134,000km , she’s currently sitting at 346,000km. At around 202k she needed a replacement emissions system so I did a 3’ turbo back straight pipe with a stage 2 Malone tune. Over the course of 7 years of ownership, she’s costed about 20k in repairs due to my constantly driving like an asshole always rolling coal & stomping on the gas. Granted I always had my work done at the dealership so in reality I’d say it’s only really about 8ish k in repairs the rest being getting the job done. I was doing about 55,000km a year for the first 4 years of ownership then moved closer to the city. Recently did the water pump kit…for the second time & had the mechanic do a full once over for health & he told me I can get another 10 years out of the car. Love it so much. She’s a dsg & the flywheel has rattled for about 3 years now but the mechanic told me It’s common & doesn’t mean bad health. It caused me to love vw so much I’ve added a 16 Touareg to the garage.
My 1.9 VW Caddy has a similar history. She's got 306,000kms on her right now. At 290,000 I had to replace a lot of parts from wear and tear. It was a slow van when I got it. I soon realised the emissions equipment was coked and deleted it. I just run a pipe off the turbo and dumps near the drivers side front wheel. She now goes hard and sounds like a mini truck. Lol. The original CVs broke, too, so I replaced both axels. The old carby days helped me learn these ECU engines.
I just wish more manufacturers made diesel powered cars because I'd be all over it like flies on shit. But I've got an alh jetta that I just got running right and it's been more enjoyable to drive because of that, but I'm wanting to upgrade to a newer TDI passat just to have something newer and then also, have a 6 speed for the highway driving I do at least a few times a month. In my opinion, TDIs are the perfect blend of efficiency with the fantastic mpg, but also a ton of fun to drive (especially manuals) because either building older ALHs to move or owning a newer car that moves more, it's a blast. Can't forget the great sounds of turbo noises
I think I’ll be getting over 70 mpg in my 2018 tdi golf it seems that way becouse I’m just starting to check mileage against litres. Only had it 4 weeks and plenty power for me so happy days
You can also get this guy and it'll let you use the big rig nozzles! www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0L8V5M/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_DFT84VTXDX8ZVAYM0VCT?linkCode=ml2&tag=coltonbateman-20
My main problem has been running in to bio-diesel (at Calif. pumps) for my cars with common rail injection (2013 Jetta wagon, 2014 Jetta wagon, 2017 328d wagon), as manufacturers warn it will void warranty. My 99 Jetta didn't have this problem (pre-common rail), but otherwise my modern diesels have been awesome and much more reliable than their gas siblings. Now if I can only find a 2018 diesel wagon or sedan, the last year they were made by Euro manufacturers.
I need to share this. Have a dpf filling up and not fully clearing during regen. Lucas Oil Diesel Deep Clean. on 1 regen went from 30g of soot load to 0g. Usually ends around 5-9g without Lucas. I would only use it once a month or as needed but if you do a lot of short trip. This is a must every tank to keep it from the soot from plugging the dpf.
I have had a different experience with my CJAA. I have a wagon with a manual transmission and I love it. I have had it for about a year. Has a long cranking issue where sometimes it takes a long time to start. Doesn't seem to matter how hot or cold or if the car has already ran today or anything-just seems to happen whenever. I can not solve it for the life of me. The other issue that I had was one of the bolts on an half shaft came loose a tore a hole in the transmission but that was probably due to shotty repairs from a previous owner and not the fault of the car.
Mine will periodically long crank, but it seems as though using additive helps. I've also heard that it might be the pump self-bleeding the fuel system partially, but I haven't verified this. The CV bolt backing out definitely sucks. They should definitely be torqued to spec and not reused so that's likely the reason.
My 2014 cjaa had similar intermittent long crank. A new oem starter fixed her right up. Get a new starter you will be pleasently surprised on how fast the engine turns over and starts.
So I recently bought my first tdi (bew). Can you drop more info on that specific model? It’s my forever car. Plan on a full delete and small tune. I have heard the cams are a fail point. You seem pretty knowledgeable and most fb groups are full of asses when you ask any question. Ty for your time and content
I haven't had any personal experience with the bew, but my dad had a BRM Jetta. Same "Pump Duese" tech and supposed cam issues. Make sure you're using a good 5w40 oil with VW505.01 certification. His was past 250k miles on the original cam using 5w40 505.01 oil. The cam was checked at the time of a timing belt replacement around 240k, looked great. Unfortunately it was deemed a total loss by the insurance company after a Jeep was sent flying into it by a minivan.
removing emission components isn't exactly legal for road vehicles. For this reason, people say they have hit a pothole, thus requiring them to remove the emissions due to damage from the pothole.
What year was yours? And I agree, those items shouldn't have failed. Unfortunately, the chassis isn't up to par with the reliability of the motor. Though I do think that factor gets better the newer model year you go.
Do you know why I would hear a camera shutter noise coming from my 2013? It happens at idle and also while I drive. It does 3- camera shutter noises and then 1- different tone camera shutter noise. Then it repeats again.
The only thing I can think of is the butterfly valve adaptation, but that should only happen when you turn off the car. Can you get a video of it? The TDI Owners Facebook Group is a good spot to go, much more information there as a group than I can offer.
how about the timing belt. when do you really need to get it replaced. 2012 passat tdi. we commute 70 plus highway miles a day so emissions are not a problem. gets over 500 miles per tank easy. it has like 95 thousand miles now
Whats considered small trips? Im considering buying a 2014 TDI wagon. I currently own a BMW i3 Rex. The only thing i don't like about my car is the ride quality and the expensive tire replacement cost. I also need a roof rack.
I would say 20 minutes one way is the threshold between short and normal trip. To be fair, most of my drives are shorter too, but two or three times a year, I do 10hrs of driving in a day.
Is a 15 mile one way commute (30 daily) mixed highway side road too short for a mk6 tdi? I live in an emissions state so I would have to leave the factory emissions equipment.
I have no idea, clearly, but what years of tdi should I be trying to find. Also, if I can find a manual, which automatic would be best for reliability/life/efficiency?
If you're set on an automatic, the DSG transmissions in the Mk6 and Mk7 are your best bet-they're reliable and efficient when properly maintained (think regular fluid changes every 40,000 miles). If longevity is your top priority, the Mk4 TDI with the ALH engine is legendary for its durability, thanks to its simpler design and lower reliance on electronics. That said, the Mk6 strikes a great balance for modern comforts, fuel efficiency, power, and overall reliability, which is why I own one. The most important factor, though, is finding a car with a strong service history within your budget. I’d take a meticulously maintained automatic Mk7 over a neglected manual Mk4 any day. Regular maintenance trumps everything when it comes to these TDIs. One thing to keep in mind is that Mk6 and Mk7 models can have emissions-related issues, like failures with the DPF (diesel particulate filter), EGR, or SCR systems. However, these problems are easily resolved with a tune/delete, which not only eliminates those concerns but also boosts performance and MPG. As for the CP4 high-pressure fuel pump in the Mk6 and Mk7, yes, it has a reputation for failing, but the risk is often overstated, especially if you're diligent with using quality diesel fuel. If you’re still concerned, you can upgrade to a CP3 pump to make it as bulletproof as an Mk4 ALH. In short: Manual or automatic: Both can last, but condition and maintenance history are key. Best automatic: Mk6 or Mk7 DSG. Best overall reliability: Mk4 ALH (manual preferred). Best all-rounder: Mk6 TDI for its mix of modernity and reliability.
@ incredible information. How does one know which is which? Seemingly, most of the wagons near me don’t have a lot of records of service(but say they do everything when they should haha).
@@gusus4422 Thanks, I’m glad you found the info helpful! Sorting through these models can definitely feel overwhelming, especially when service records are lacking, but you’re on the right track by asking these questions. The easiest way to identify the generation is by the body style-Google Images can be your best friend here. As a quick guide: Mk4: 1999-2005 wagons (though you might find some Mk5 sedans sneaking in around 2005). Mk5/Mk6 (Common Rail): 2009-2014 wagons, with a slightly updated engine and emissions system over the years but largely similar. Mk7: 2015 wagons only in the U.S., making them pretty rare. If service records are spotty, I’d suggest looking closely for signs of good care: clean engine bay, smooth transmission shifts, and minimal rust or leaks. Sometimes, an honest conversation with the seller about maintenance habits can give you more insight than vague "it's been serviced" claims. Let me know if you’re curious about specific differences between these generations-I’m happy to dive deeper!
A lot of people feel this way. I totally understand. I'd like to get a TDI Mk4 Golf or Jetta wagon for a winter beater. I still feel the interior upgrades of the Mk5/6 make them better dailies. Though, with the right seats, a Mk4 is super comfortable.
@@eurodriven2507 Yeah for sure, here in europe we got some top of the line mk4s with all the bells and whistles they are super affordable and easy to fix
Pumpe duese, but yeah. Proper German would be "pump-eh doos-eh", but I've always said "PD" or "pump duese" like your average American would read it. lol
It varies from country to country. In the US - Mk4 1999.5-2005.5 (Some really '99s were Mk3's) Mk5 2005.5-2010.5 Mk6 2010.5-2014 Mk7 2015-2021 Mk8 2022+
What about a Mk6 with 2.0 TDI but 81kw (110 hp)? It has a 5 speed and mine was equiped with a fixed flywheel by someone previous... is it gonna gonna break down soon or it can still be fine since its a weaker engine version?
I'm not familiar with those TDI's. Might want to ask in a TDI group with some people from other markets (Euro most likely). The single mass flywheel might actually be fine in the 5spd, I know it was fine in the older TDI 5spds.
I'm 30 seconds into your videos and I will say...Your shifting very late. Mine has a 2011 DSG and it shifts at 2.5k around 3rd gear and above, and will put it in 6th gear when it senses you are not asking for much power You are shifting after 3k and will let it sit there not asking for much power Trust me if you want best Consumption shift your gear more often Plus around the 1.5k and 2k rpm is when you get the most torque and you done even need to shift because they move fast with torque Hope it helps
Yes, it had an open circuit on solenoid 6 (N93). Would get stuck in 3rd gear (limp mode). Happened here and there for about a year, solved with a clear, and then it was stuck with no remedy for a week or two. Replaced a few solenoids, solenoid wiring harness, fluid+filter+gasket, and it's been driving great ever since.
@@eurodriven2507 damn, i make a lot of short trips then, if I force the dpf regen with an obd2 accesory at least every week, should I be fine? I will pothole it but wanna stay like this some years before doing it.
@@mariodr1067 That should be enough. The main concern is things not getting warm enough for a regen to start and then them repeatedly not finishing because the car is turned off in the middle of the regen. Which is fine a few times, but if that's all it gets for months on end, it'll clog. It sounds like you're doing the right thing.
@@eurodriven2507 Would you recommend a 2013 or 2014 (Mk6) Golf TDI over the 2015 (Mk7) Golf TDI? Because of the fact that the Mk6 has a slightly larger fuel tank and because it doesn't have an AdBlue tank?
Yes, I would recommend the Mk6 over a Mk7. On top of that you mentioned, it also has an independent rear suspension setup. That all said... You can swap an independent rear end into the Mk7 TDI, you can remove the adblue system, and the tank is still plenty large. It really all depends on how much work you're willing to put in for the Mk7's advantages. (A bit of extra power, updated interior/exterior, etc)
At least in the US, diesel was cheaper until around 2005 or so. That’s when the US switched to ultra-low sulfur diesel (ULSD) to cut emissions. This caused a slight drop in energy density (about 1-2%) and made it more expensive to refine compared to the old formulas. At the same time, the federal tax rate on diesel was increased. On top of that, many states tax diesel higher than gasoline. The reasoning is that diesel vehicles, especially trucks, are used more for commercial purposes and cause more wear and tear on roads, so higher taxes help cover the cost of infrastructure maintenance. Then there’s the usual supply and demand factor, with diesel in high demand globally for trucking, shipping, and industrial uses. It's a can of worms, but I hope that helps clear things up!
I'm not sure what you're referring to. I've done 60k miles only needing oil changes and a sway bar end link. The car is at 192k miles. It's been very durable.
Considering I've only had to buy oil, filters, and $50 in sway bar end links in 60k miles, I'd disagree. There are some VWs I would avoid, but a 4 cylinder TDI definitely isn't on that list.
@@Hassan-nu3rp Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the 1.6 TDI , it was never sold in the US. My understanding is they will get better fuel economy, but I'm not sure how reliable/quick they are. I can say I'm very happy with my 2.0 TDI though. You'll probably have to do some digging on European forums/videos to compare and decide. Best of luck!
I use AMS oil in my 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, 5-speed stick. I bought the car new in 2003, and it now has 407000 miles on it. It has been the best, most reliable car I have ever owned. I wish I could buy a new one now.
Now that I'm 60 I tell everyone if you find something you like buy two...
I bought 6 😅
Hi, this is a really great video and love to see that people use TDI's in the US. One advice that many people give here en Europe is that basically buy a Diesel car if you do long drives and buy gasoline for short drives. Short drives on diesel don't let the engine get to operational temps, and so you get carbon problem on the exhaust and emition systems. So here I have a few tips for diesel cars:
- If you do short drives, try to do a longer (20min on highway for example) on the weekends and/or don't be shy on the revs.
- For the turbo and engine care, use the specific oil that the manufacturer recommends (referring to viscosity and saps quantity) as a high ashes oil has a negative impact on the DPF (it gets clogged), also waiting for a minute after starting the car and before shutting it off is very good, especially after highway use, as it gives time for the engine to cool down a bit, and the oil flow helps the turbo to cool down, if you don't wait, the oil in the turbo basically gets toasted and carbon gets formed inside the turbo, degrading the engine oil and the turbo quicker than usual.
- Do change the diesel filter regularly, generally is done every other oil change, this is very important as injectors are very fragile and the filter cost is like 5 bucks.
Keep up the nice content !!!
Concur 🙏
I find it completely insane how precisely VW scheduled maintenance can advise preventive maintenance. "84,000: check rear windshield wiper sprayer" At exactly 84,200, the rear windshield wiper sprayer hose breaks." Now if we could open source the service manuals....
I actually found all of the factory service manuals in a google drive folder, I'll see if I can link it in the description. Ithas Bentley's and factory files. It's a lot of information.
Also, 192k and no issues with the wiper sprayer. Same goes for my dad's 06 Jetta at 253k, my girlfriends Rabbit at 223k. It's a check, not an expected lifespan. Though, if you were very particular about things, I suppose it's not a bad item to get out of the way. They will eventually lose pressure.
ElsaWin is your friend. Google it and you'll find it and how to use/install.
You americans treat these tractor engines as the last coke in the desert. It's quite funny.
Spot on TDI, I have first gen Tiguan 2.0 TDi. It has 330 000km now 11 years old manual transmission. Not a days problem. Still on original clutch, recently did the 3rd cambelt chsnge. no DPI issues yet. I am happy with the ROI.
I wish we had smaller TDI SUVs here. You've gotta step up to a Touareg to get the TDI in the states and no manual available with that.
@@eurodriven2507
Here we don't have Jettas, and Passat anymore the last was a Jetta 6, the small SUV We have these TDi , Caddy 7 seater and panel van, Tiguan and Toureg, although with newer models the manual transmission are becoming scarcer, except the caddy manual Tdi common.
People here would LOVE to be able to buy those tdi mini work vans. They would convert well for camping vans/mini RVs.
I'm 2 days post pothole on my '12 JSW, and it's so much better, even at stage 0.5. I'm just under 116k, so next up is the timing belt, and CP3 conversion. I plan on driving this car until it turns to dust.
I've had a mk1 diesel and 3 TDIs. Great cars. I currently have a mk7 with 110K on it. I purchased my mk4 new in 2001 and sold it with just shy of 400K miles on it. That thing was a tank!
great video brother. im on my 8th tdi rn. porsche cayenne diesel w a big turbo, so much fun while getting great mpg. i would also recommend the m57 in the 335D and x5D
3:13 Another good place to get diesel that is typically cheaper is MFA stations most are card only though but they are usually 5-15 cents cheaper per gallon than in town stations and 15-30 cents cheaper than Truck stops and other highway exit stations. The diesel is typically fresh because farmers go through a lot of diesel
💯 spot on my TDI brethren! Excellent.
Definitely helped me. I’m going to look at purchasing my first vw, (2012 tdi golf 2 door hatch) I travel 70 miles one way for work and been a die hard ford man, currently in a 08 focus she’s at 233k been a heck of a car but I’ve always wanted a tdi and the 2.0 is getting a little weaker (and burning oil). This one’s an old friend from school that’s a vw fanatic it’s has the “preventive maintenance” items done stuff has fallen off resulting in better fuel economy. Almost a no brainer for what it’s worth.
Good day bro
You make a lot of sense about the use and love for TDI👌🏻
My girlfriend gave me her MK6 Golf TDI but one of the issues I have faced is that it needs VCDS software if you are mechanical inclined an issue never had when owning a Honda or Subaru😮. My DPF clogged so I remove it and soaked with DPF flushed for over 24 hrs. Now I need to replace the valve cover and here is the need for VCDS to prime the diesel system after the replacing the valve cover. Having the VCDS and windows laptop will save you money otherwise you be paying 170 bucks for diagnostics or even more at the dealership. Buy it at Ross-Tech and followed their forum for reference!
Yep, the other option is OBD11. There are some random other tools that will do it too, but those are the VW/Audi focused ones.
Bought my mk6 Jetta at 134,000km , she’s currently sitting at 346,000km. At around 202k she needed a replacement emissions system so I did a 3’ turbo back straight pipe with a stage 2 Malone tune. Over the course of 7 years of ownership, she’s costed about 20k in repairs due to my constantly driving like an asshole always rolling coal & stomping on the gas. Granted I always had my work done at the dealership so in reality I’d say it’s only really about 8ish k in repairs the rest being getting the job done. I was doing about 55,000km a year for the first 4 years of ownership then moved closer to the city. Recently did the water pump kit…for the second time & had the mechanic do a full once over for health & he told me I can get another 10 years out of the car. Love it so much. She’s a dsg & the flywheel has rattled for about 3 years now but the mechanic told me It’s common & doesn’t mean bad health. It caused me to love vw so much I’ve added a 16 Touareg to the garage.
My 1.9 VW Caddy has a similar history. She's got 306,000kms on her right now. At 290,000 I had to replace a lot of parts from wear and tear. It was a slow van when I got it. I soon realised the emissions equipment was coked and deleted it. I just run a pipe off the turbo and dumps near the drivers side front wheel. She now goes hard and sounds like a mini truck. Lol.
The original CVs broke, too, so I replaced both axels.
The old carby days helped me learn these ECU engines.
I saw that a rattling dmf can start chewing into the transmission.
I agree they are great cars, only expensive maintenance that you can expect is the turbo and intercooler to fail eventually on the older cars (2010>)
I just wish more manufacturers made diesel powered cars because I'd be all over it like flies on shit. But I've got an alh jetta that I just got running right and it's been more enjoyable to drive because of that, but I'm wanting to upgrade to a newer TDI passat just to have something newer and then also, have a 6 speed for the highway driving I do at least a few times a month. In my opinion, TDIs are the perfect blend of efficiency with the fantastic mpg, but also a ton of fun to drive (especially manuals) because either building older ALHs to move or owning a newer car that moves more, it's a blast. Can't forget the great sounds of turbo noises
I think I’ll be getting over 70 mpg in my 2018 tdi golf it seems that way becouse I’m just starting to check mileage against litres. Only had it 4 weeks and plenty power for me so happy days
3:46 only funnel I can find that fits is that one on the can
You can also get this guy and it'll let you use the big rig nozzles!
www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0L8V5M/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_DFT84VTXDX8ZVAYM0VCT?linkCode=ml2&tag=coltonbateman-20
Your videos are great bro, Hella info. I've been watching videos on these cats for ever . This is just epic
Loved the stats at the end!!
I've got 2004 touran 1.9 TDI with just over 300k km and it works like a swiss clock
My main problem has been running in to bio-diesel (at Calif. pumps) for my cars with common rail injection (2013 Jetta wagon, 2014 Jetta wagon, 2017 328d wagon), as manufacturers warn it will void warranty. My 99 Jetta didn't have this problem (pre-common rail), but otherwise my modern diesels have been awesome and much more reliable than their gas siblings. Now if I can only find a 2018 diesel wagon or sedan, the last year they were made by Euro manufacturers.
That's a big reason why I run fuel additives. If I can't trust the pump to be good enough, I'm going to add the "special sauce."
I need to share this. Have a dpf filling up and not fully clearing during regen. Lucas Oil Diesel Deep Clean. on 1 regen went from 30g of soot load to 0g. Usually ends around 5-9g without Lucas. I would only use it once a month or as needed but if you do a lot of short trip. This is a must every tank to keep it from the soot from plugging the dpf.
I have mk7 2.0 tdi. 200 000 miles. Not a single problem. All the emision parts are almost like new.
Check out Hot Shot Lubricity additive....hopefully will prolong the life of that fuel pump.
omg ive seen you on the road from my work van hahahaha I remember you from the plate. I love it!!
I have had a different experience with my CJAA. I have a wagon with a manual transmission and I love it. I have had it for about a year. Has a long cranking issue where sometimes it takes a long time to start. Doesn't seem to matter how hot or cold or if the car has already ran today or anything-just seems to happen whenever. I can not solve it for the life of me. The other issue that I had was one of the bolts on an half shaft came loose a tore a hole in the transmission but that was probably due to shotty repairs from a previous owner and not the fault of the car.
Mine will periodically long crank, but it seems as though using additive helps. I've also heard that it might be the pump self-bleeding the fuel system partially, but I haven't verified this.
The CV bolt backing out definitely sucks. They should definitely be torqued to spec and not reused so that's likely the reason.
My 2014 cjaa had similar intermittent long crank. A new oem starter fixed her right up. Get a new starter you will be pleasently surprised on how fast the engine turns over and starts.
So I recently bought my first tdi (bew). Can you drop more info on that specific model? It’s my forever car. Plan on a full delete and small tune. I have heard the cams are a fail point. You seem pretty knowledgeable and most fb groups are full of asses when you ask any question. Ty for your time and content
I haven't had any personal experience with the bew, but my dad had a BRM Jetta. Same "Pump Duese" tech and supposed cam issues. Make sure you're using a good 5w40 oil with VW505.01 certification. His was past 250k miles on the original cam using 5w40 505.01 oil. The cam was checked at the time of a timing belt replacement around 240k, looked great. Unfortunately it was deemed a total loss by the insurance company after a Jeep was sent flying into it by a minivan.
I run home fuel 289 a gallon its a wagon deleted with stage 2 and intake loves it
Great Video, clear and informative.
Why does everyone call a dpf delete a pothole, just curious.
removing emission components isn't exactly legal for road vehicles. For this reason, people say they have hit a pothole, thus requiring them to remove the emissions due to damage from the pothole.
My dsg wagon now gets 50mpg after a kerma tune
I needed to replace the clock spring and hatch lock. Not much, but these should never have failed. I rate quality of the diesels as average.
What year was yours? And I agree, those items shouldn't have failed. Unfortunately, the chassis isn't up to par with the reliability of the motor. Though I do think that factor gets better the newer model year you go.
2009. Buyback in 2017.
Do you know why I would hear a camera shutter noise coming from my 2013? It happens at idle and also while I drive. It does 3- camera shutter noises and then 1- different tone camera shutter noise. Then it repeats again.
The only thing I can think of is the butterfly valve adaptation, but that should only happen when you turn off the car. Can you get a video of it? The TDI Owners Facebook Group is a good spot to go, much more information there as a group than I can offer.
2007 vw caddy with original turbo at 300,000km. EGR and Cat were clogged. I deleted those. Lol
how about the timing belt. when do you really need to get it replaced. 2012 passat tdi. we commute 70 plus highway miles a day so emissions are not a problem. gets over 500 miles per tank easy. it has like 95 thousand miles now
Some are real sticklers about the 10yrs, others only really care about mileage, others just don't care/know until it pops.
Whats considered small trips? Im considering buying a 2014 TDI wagon. I currently own a BMW i3 Rex. The only thing i don't like about my car is the ride quality and the expensive tire replacement cost. I also need a roof rack.
I would say 20 minutes one way is the threshold between short and normal trip. To be fair, most of my drives are shorter too, but two or three times a year, I do 10hrs of driving in a day.
Is a 15 mile one way commute (30 daily) mixed highway side road too short for a mk6 tdi? I live in an emissions state so I would have to leave the factory emissions equipment.
@@mikeward101 I'd recommend a VW 2.5l for that kind of situation.
"the pothole" = "the weight loss program"?
Yep!
I have no idea, clearly, but what years of tdi should I be trying to find. Also, if I can find a manual, which automatic would be best for reliability/life/efficiency?
If you're set on an automatic, the DSG transmissions in the Mk6 and Mk7 are your best bet-they're reliable and efficient when properly maintained (think regular fluid changes every 40,000 miles). If longevity is your top priority, the Mk4 TDI with the ALH engine is legendary for its durability, thanks to its simpler design and lower reliance on electronics.
That said, the Mk6 strikes a great balance for modern comforts, fuel efficiency, power, and overall reliability, which is why I own one.
The most important factor, though, is finding a car with a strong service history within your budget. I’d take a meticulously maintained automatic Mk7 over a neglected manual Mk4 any day. Regular maintenance trumps everything when it comes to these TDIs.
One thing to keep in mind is that Mk6 and Mk7 models can have emissions-related issues, like failures with the DPF (diesel particulate filter), EGR, or SCR systems. However, these problems are easily resolved with a tune/delete, which not only eliminates those concerns but also boosts performance and MPG.
As for the CP4 high-pressure fuel pump in the Mk6 and Mk7, yes, it has a reputation for failing, but the risk is often overstated, especially if you're diligent with using quality diesel fuel. If you’re still concerned, you can upgrade to a CP3 pump to make it as bulletproof as an Mk4 ALH.
In short:
Manual or automatic: Both can last, but condition and maintenance history are key.
Best automatic: Mk6 or Mk7 DSG.
Best overall reliability: Mk4 ALH (manual preferred).
Best all-rounder: Mk6 TDI for its mix of modernity and reliability.
@ incredible information. How does one know which is which? Seemingly, most of the wagons near me don’t have a lot of records of service(but say they do everything when they should haha).
@@eurodriven2507 I’m looking at a 2013 tdi golf wagon(in Canada). Has 140,000miles on it.
@@gusus4422 Thanks, I’m glad you found the info helpful! Sorting through these models can definitely feel overwhelming, especially when service records are lacking, but you’re on the right track by asking these questions.
The easiest way to identify the generation is by the body style-Google Images can be your best friend here. As a quick guide:
Mk4: 1999-2005 wagons (though you might find some Mk5 sedans sneaking in around 2005).
Mk5/Mk6 (Common Rail): 2009-2014 wagons, with a slightly updated engine and emissions system over the years but largely similar.
Mk7: 2015 wagons only in the U.S., making them pretty rare.
If service records are spotty, I’d suggest looking closely for signs of good care: clean engine bay, smooth transmission shifts, and minimal rust or leaks. Sometimes, an honest conversation with the seller about maintenance habits can give you more insight than vague "it's been serviced" claims.
Let me know if you’re curious about specific differences between these generations-I’m happy to dive deeper!
What is your view on the oil pump vibration balancer on an mk6 and downgrading it to the oil pump system from an mk4
I'm not familiar with that swap. The only damper upgrade (if that's what you're talking about) that I'm familiar with is the Kerma unit.
I think pre mk5 tdis are the best
A lot of people feel this way. I totally understand. I'd like to get a TDI Mk4 Golf or Jetta wagon for a winter beater. I still feel the interior upgrades of the Mk5/6 make them better dailies. Though, with the right seats, a Mk4 is super comfortable.
@@eurodriven2507 Yeah for sure, here in europe we got some top of the line mk4s with all the bells and whistles they are super affordable and easy to fix
5:21 pump deuce 😂
Pumpe duese, but yeah. Proper German would be "pump-eh doos-eh", but I've always said "PD" or "pump duese" like your average American would read it. lol
،my car been driven 220000k is,it time to change my glow plug?
@@peshpeshabdulla Glow plugs aren't a wear item. No reason to replace if they're working fine.
What years coincide with the various "MK numbers ?) & what years have the dual mass clutch ?
It varies from country to country.
In the US -
Mk4 1999.5-2005.5 (Some really '99s were Mk3's)
Mk5 2005.5-2010.5
Mk6 2010.5-2014
Mk7 2015-2021
Mk8 2022+
Have a 2014 tdi passat. I can go 1000 miles on the freeway
What about a Mk6 with 2.0 TDI but 81kw (110 hp)? It has a 5 speed and mine was equiped with a fixed flywheel by someone previous... is it gonna gonna break down soon or it can still be fine since its a weaker engine version?
I'm not familiar with those TDI's. Might want to ask in a TDI group with some people from other markets (Euro most likely). The single mass flywheel might actually be fine in the 5spd, I know it was fine in the older TDI 5spds.
I'm 30 seconds into your videos and I will say...Your shifting very late.
Mine has a 2011 DSG and it shifts at 2.5k around 3rd gear and above, and will put it in 6th gear when it senses you are not asking for much power
You are shifting after 3k and will let it sit there not asking for much power
Trust me if you want best Consumption shift your gear more often
Plus around the 1.5k and 2k rpm is when you get the most torque and you done even need to shift because they move fast with torque
Hope it helps
Was the problem with your brothers o1m, is it was stuck in limp mode
Yes, it had an open circuit on solenoid 6 (N93). Would get stuck in 3rd gear (limp mode). Happened here and there for about a year, solved with a clear, and then it was stuck with no remedy for a week or two. Replaced a few solenoids, solenoid wiring harness, fluid+filter+gasket, and it's been driving great ever since.
why the barely audible background music?
what does potholeing it means? And by short trips, if my tdi gets up to temp in my trip, is that considered a short trip?
Pothole means a tune and delete. And yeah, that's a fair definition of a short trip.
@@eurodriven2507 damn, i make a lot of short trips then, if I force the dpf regen with an obd2 accesory at least every week, should I be fine? I will pothole it but wanna stay like this some years before doing it.
@@mariodr1067 That should be enough. The main concern is things not getting warm enough for a regen to start and then them repeatedly not finishing because the car is turned off in the middle of the regen. Which is fine a few times, but if that's all it gets for months on end, it'll clog. It sounds like you're doing the right thing.
I got a 1.2 TDI in a Polo 6R, I challenge anyone else to come back at me with a smaller TDI hahah
What kind of fuel mileage on that one?
@@bobirving6052 I drive on bigger size tires and I average 5l/100km. But when driving on the original size tires it's about 3 to 4l/100km.
How often do you put additive in the fuel tank?
Every fill-up.
@@eurodriven2507 Would you recommend a 2013 or 2014 (Mk6) Golf TDI over the 2015 (Mk7) Golf TDI? Because of the fact that the Mk6 has a slightly larger fuel tank and because it doesn't have an AdBlue tank?
Yes, I would recommend the Mk6 over a Mk7. On top of that you mentioned, it also has an independent rear suspension setup.
That all said... You can swap an independent rear end into the Mk7 TDI, you can remove the adblue system, and the tank is still plenty large. It really all depends on how much work you're willing to put in for the Mk7's advantages. (A bit of extra power, updated interior/exterior, etc)
@@eurodriven2507 What do you think of the 3.0 liter V6 TDI sold in the 2014 and 2015 Audi Q5? That model really looks incredible to drive.
whats the air intake you have
Neuspeed!
How many miles you have?
@@loli4388 Currently at 197k or so!
What is the DMF?
Dual mass flywheel on the manual transmissions.
@@eurodriven2507 Thank you!
"Do not use a SMF on a mk6-7"
My mk7 tdi came with a SMF from the factory tho
What country are you in? Is it a 2.0 TDI?
i love my 2011 golf tdi, delete it if you want it to be your forever car!
Sorry if I didn't make it clear in the video, that's been done for the last 40k miles haha.
clean dpf. dont bother servicing it. it will outlive you probably lol. fuel is optional.
everything runs on diesel in this world but cars.
why is it more expensive???
At least in the US, diesel was cheaper until around 2005 or so. That’s when the US switched to ultra-low sulfur diesel (ULSD) to cut emissions. This caused a slight drop in energy density (about 1-2%) and made it more expensive to refine compared to the old formulas. At the same time, the federal tax rate on diesel was increased.
On top of that, many states tax diesel higher than gasoline. The reasoning is that diesel vehicles, especially trucks, are used more for commercial purposes and cause more wear and tear on roads, so higher taxes help cover the cost of infrastructure maintenance.
Then there’s the usual supply and demand factor, with diesel in high demand globally for trucking, shipping, and industrial uses.
It's a can of worms, but I hope that helps clear things up!
Become a Volkswagen scumbag like me, do everything for as cheap as possible. When emissions parts fail just delete it and move on with life. Lol
I missed the part where you shared what you wished you know before buying a VW TDI…
What? A modern car breaks easily and you have to maintain it? Say it ain't so!
I'm not sure what you're referring to. I've done 60k miles only needing oil changes and a sway bar end link. The car is at 192k miles. It's been very durable.
@@eurodriven2507 ignore that idiot.
every diesel engine after 2008 is a crap and should be avoided
Said no one ever.
Things I Wish I knew Before Buying a VW...don't buy a VW.
Considering I've only had to buy oil, filters, and $50 in sway bar end links in 60k miles, I'd disagree. There are some VWs I would avoid, but a 4 cylinder TDI definitely isn't on that list.
Hi I am sick of paying too much for fuel on my opel corsa 1.4 petrol i want to switch for a diesel which one is best 1.6 diesel or 2.0 diesel
@@Hassan-nu3rp Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the 1.6 TDI , it was never sold in the US. My understanding is they will get better fuel economy, but I'm not sure how reliable/quick they are. I can say I'm very happy with my 2.0 TDI though. You'll probably have to do some digging on European forums/videos to compare and decide. Best of luck!