This method is great for the correct initial installation of the belt on the pulleys. Usually novices don't know how much they should pull the belt by hand between pulleys. Painted marking helps them to install the belt with minimal slackness before pulling the tensioner pin. To be more accurate, it is better to count the number of belt teeth between pulleys rather than just aligning the old belt with the new one and transferring the marks to the new belt. I both align the belts and count the teeth to make sure the marks are painted at 100% correct position on the new belt.
Yep,if I'm not sure that's exactly what I do. I recently used a made in Germany optibelt on a toyota and I counted the teeth on the belt to be 100% sure. It's a fail safe way of doing timing belts.
@@sickofthebullshit1967 Yeah, that's a great method for beginners too but after a while, you will get the hang of it and can align the belt even without using the marks.
@Nariman Asgharian as long as there is the same amount of teeth in the new belt as the old one then there's no problem with needing marks on the belt,but the belts do need to rotate the right way. Not everyone is a fckn a grade mechanic are they dbag.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone Seriously, if not for video makers like you, I'd be so lost. I have a Lexus SC400 upon which I did a starter job in 2020. That was a trip to hell and back...and the timing belt is coming up soon. I'm gonna be reviewing this video a lot, as well as helping myself to your other videos too! Cheers! =)
Thank you for sharing this tip. Everyone should be using this tip because it ensures proper ‘off and on with new timing belt’. One day when it’s time for me to do a timing belt I’ll be using your tip. Thank you for Down Under ‘Australia’ :)
Thats a great tech tip! 1990 toyota 2C eng. ,,, 1st i mishandled 1teeth advance eng. did not run after 2hours review its ok, so i did ur tech to 2 other engines!!.. 1click ran at random,,, urs perfect!!!
I'm glad I saw this. It's just plain smart! I've never done a timing belt, but my 1995 Accord is due for one and this will make things a bit easier. Thanks Tone!
Thanks a lot for this!! Got all the parts together to do a Timing Belt on a 1989 Isuzu Trooper 2.6L SOHC. It's an interference engine and I'm nervous of making a mess of things.
Nice! Thank you, it's always good to have an alternative way to place the marks. As long as you know it was in time before. you can place the marks technically anywhere. Getting ready to do a 97 3.0 Ford/ Mercury Villager timing belt/ tensioner/ water pump etc. Your video is great and much appreciated.
@jogrowscalifornia I actually just partnered with a company that sells oem repair guOFF. Called Emanualonline.com. They are online and cost between 20 and 49. Use code NUTS&BOLTSWITHTONE and get 22% Off.
Great tip. I have never messed up a timing belt, but I'm not doing it professionally either, so just a rare occurrence on my own cars. They do freak me right out though, especially if I was to completely mess up the timing and cause major damage. Thanks for this tip. Better safe and make everything
You are very welcome and happy to hear you haven't any troubles. Yes better safe then sorry. Even though I do this professionally I still do it everytime. Thanks for watching
You could check it but you are only looking at the outside of the balancer, and they are known to slip so the timing could be off. Removing everything is the best way to do it right and not cause any damage. Thanks for watching.
Unless you were familiar with them engine you would need the proper repair information. If you message me on Instagram I could try to help you out. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone thank you I appreciate the reply and willingness to help. Nothing I'm working on currently just a question I've always had and could never really get an answer for
I am sorry to hear this, here is a link to a tool that works for that provided there are holes in the cam sprocket. amzn.to/42i8uGH If you have any further questions please feel free to message me on my Instagram. Thanks for watching.
i just did a timing belt job on the v6 sienna and its off a little now , it runs yes and starts but it not idling rite , cold or hot idle , so now i need to find some good tools for taking off timing belt and put it back on with everything in perfect sync.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone no this one does not run rough at all . its only off time bye maybe a half a tooth . it still gets up good when i need the power , it just has a lower idle then normal on a cold start . but other then all that its runs smooth enough to drive and not be a danger on the freeway,s
@@NutsandBoltswithTone well i don't know how much its off , to end a debate it runs and um not messing with it again , until needed. because i don't have 700 dollars to have it took to a mechanic to have it took back off , and put on acuter in the timing . i just adjusted throttle up some and it idles now . now all the time on cold start but it idles ,
Man, nice job. I watched most of the video before doing my 2010 Kia Soul 2.0 and marked my belts but apparently I still didn't get it quite right and missed a few of your good tips. It runs great or seems to but my check engine light is on. From what I'm reading I'm probably off a tooth or two. I could never quite see the lower harmonic markings quite well and thought that since I never moved it that I'd be ok. I also never seemed to have slack on the tensioner side like I saw in your video and aren't quite sure why. I can see the upper mark clearly on the cam pully of course but I'm not quite sure on the lower gear for the harmonic balancer. I would assume that I would need to make sure that the lower gear is lined up with its mark before proceeding? I loathe the idea of doing all of this again and still being off. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated, thanks in advance, Ben.
You should always mark crank and both cams and in a place that you can make sure it is exactly like it was prior. Thank you for watching. feel free to message me on instagram if you need anything.
Better tip is that instead of transferring mark from old belt to new belt by placing one top on another one, just count number of teeths between marks on the old belt. Mark on new belt by counting same number of teeths. This way you are not open to risk of mis marking slightly.
That sounds like a great idea however that would take a lot longer and in my opinion would have a better chance of making a mistake. I go around the belt mark everything and then go back and double check. have not had a problem. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone how can you make a mistake with counting method? Your method has risk of transferring marks from stretched belt (of course old belt does stretch) to unstretched new belt. Speaking of taking lot of time, which one do you need, couple of extra minutes or destroyed engine due to wrong marking?
@SK hey bud I get it I've been using my method for 17 years and I've had no problem. If you would rather count like 200 or so teeth then you have fun. I appreciate your input but for me my method would be more efficient. Also easier to see the marks.
I put a timing belt on my 02 3.0 Accord and spawn it one time on the crank saw the cams were 180 out and took the belt off was moving the rear can and it's spun on me. How do I Ensure that decams and the crank are lined up correctly before I reinstall the belt? Thanks in advance
i been looking for a video to explain belt preload. had many cars come to me where someone put a belt on but didnt load the belt on the idler side and they pulled the pin thinking it was timed right, but when it took the slack out of the belt it caused it to be off a tooth or two. right at 8:30 you kinda mentioned it. might be a good video
That is a good idea, I will toss that idea around. crazy thing is if you do not remove slack on right side of tensioner, once you pull pin and turn over the engine it will be out of time. Funny thing is sounds like people are not checking it after doing belt. Thank you for watching.
Hey bub . I’m replacing a secondary timing chain tensioner dual overhead cam’s on a Lincoln LS 2005 V8 when I took the valve cover off there is no holes in the sprocket for me to zip tie the chain and sprocket together. How do you recommend I go about tackling that job?
So I am out on disability and do not have access to repair info, however you probably do not need to zip tie the two together just keep chain supported up and remove sprocket. I am not sure on this job but I do know that I do not zip tie chains to sprockets very often. I will use a bungee cord to keep chain pulled up to not let slack fall down. I hope this helps. If you need any further help you can message me on my Instagram. Thanks for watching.
Great idea, marks covered up & bad angles to view from are a problem. Had a bad day back when,checking to see if the engine sounded good,rev up, what's that? something ain't right-my first experience with a rev limiter..
So got an 3vze toyota 1990 pickup new long block ready to swap parts right over. They sent belt already marked I set everything 3different times on the timing but after putting the crankshaft cover plate on and then turning it over with an wrench the 2 top dead center on the cams are landing on but from the time of setting it has landed on the crank shaft slightly left of zero any ideas I just dont want to ruin the engine or all the efforts I've put in?
OMG I have done so many of these, so with timing belts there is no such thing as a half a tooth, so generally if timing appears off it usually due to not looking at the marks completely straight. If the belt is already marked the only thing you have to do is make sure that it is on the right way and not backwards if your marks are all lining up then it is not on backwards. from there you set all the marks to the engine marks, pull the pin on the tensioner and turn over the engine 2 full revolutions. make sure all your cams and crank line up with the engine marks. If you have not pulled the pin on the tensioner and turned it over twice then that would explain it seeming like it was off. best way to think about it is as long as it is not one tooth off then it is ok. Like I said no such thing as a half a tooth. Please let me know how this turns out. I appreciate you watching. If you have any further questions you can reach out to me on my instagram.
That's all great Sir but what if Joe smold already took everything off and did not mark anything and now vehicle or jaguar 3.0 is missing bad have any advise please desperate
Well you have to look up the diagram for the timing belt, timing marks and procedure. If you message me on instagram I may be able to help you. Thank you for watching.
Yep I’m watching this video because I just did my first timing belt, thought everything went fine, sounded good….but there’s half the power on the gas pedal and it won’t rev over 3,000rpm. Looks like I’m the 3hr wasted time guy. I’m going to mark it like crazy when I redo tomorrow. God I hope it goes good. Live and learn! Thanks for the video!
I count the teeth on all new belts and chains, especially no-name belts. Once an Accord didn't run right after a new belt, long story short it was one tooth short in the belt....customer supplied eBay belt.... Great video and great tip that I use on every single timing job...even non chain/belt jobs like a cam sprocket on a 300 straight six Ford... always leave a map to get back to where you was before disassembly...
The thing that made mine a little hard was the rear camshaft in the van , just made it a little harder to get the perfect line up of ti ing when i was doing the job
Yes the rear cam is more difficult to get lined up, I use a 3 inch mirror. Did you by chance use a paint marker for the old belt to new one? That is how you avoid this problem. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone i used a white crayon , it did not work the best , but i not pulling it back apart to redo , the vans running , and its it derivable so i will do that the next time i have too change the timing belt.
I did a belt kit on my Chevy epica 2.0 diesel,I really think I'm one tooth out on the cam but seem to have plenty of power,idling good but still think I'm a tooth out
This video was just about marking the timing belt prior to taking it off and marking new one before putting it on. I have videos on doing timing belt repair and marking the belt.
How do u know if the cams are lined up right. I rotated them so marks were lined up.( belt was broken and customer installed the distributor) not sure if it was done right
So in your timing belt kit there should be a manual on how to do the timing belt. there is a mark on both cams and the valve covers that should all like up. The crank has a mark as well. Now since the customer set distributor, I would get engine timed and set to top dead center for number one cylinder and make sure rotor is pointing at number 1 to make sure it was installed correctly. I do not think the distributor on this can be put in wrong but not 100 percent sure. If you are still unsure, message me on instagram and I can send you a diagram of the timing marks. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I have a 02 Accord 3.0 and I was replacing the timing belt and spun it after install one time saw that the cams were out and took the belt off like a dummy. My crank is on the mark but my right cam is pointing down and my left cam spun on me and I can't remember which direction to turn it back to get it right. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I just did the timing belt in my Jetta. It cranks over and runs but I keep getting the error code P0016. Crankshaft/Camshaft position sensor. I know I slipped when working on putting the belt back in and I was just praying that it was just my imagination since the timing marks still looked lined ups. I know it’s off by a tooth, how do I go about fixing it or getting it lined up again? 2013 Jetta 2.0 Thank you for the video. I will never do this without marking the belt and timing marks.
Update: I got it back aligned just half an hour ago! Omg what a relief. I was so stressed the heck out. Thank you! Runs like a champ and no more check engine light.
Usually if you got it one tooth off it because there was too much slack on the non tension side, the opposite side of the tensioner you need to make sure it is tight, easiest way is to line up timing marks, mark the belt and sprockets so you dont put it back where you just had it. remove the belt and retime the engine making sure the belt is not back in the same spot. good luck and let me know how it turns out. thank you for watching.
Hello, maybe you can help. I hired a friend of a friend, someone who said he knew how to replaced a timing belt in my 2007 Honda Accord 3.0, in my driveway. He obviously didn't watch your video because although he got the new belt in place it looked fine until he started to crank the engine by hand and it crawled off the back sprocket. I stopped him from turning crankshaft. I then noticed the belt was also coming out with the gear around the crankshaft. He attempted to push it back on and then put the harmonic balance on. He attempted to crank the engine again by hand to get the belt back into place but it seemed to get tighter. He then remover the chain tension-er which caused the pulleys to move a lot. Unfortunately, he needed to leave, in a hurry I might add saying he'd be back. I'm still waiting! Aside from my trying to save a buck, any suggestions? How screwed am I? Thanks in advance.
Great tip. Just ordered the pens from eBay (for a few dollars cheaper than Amazon). Will be tackling TB and water pump and oil pump seal and gasket on my '97 Celica GT convertible, it has 234,000 miles but runs as smooth as butter, but not sure if and when TB changed (thankfully is a non-interference engine). Waiting for all of the associated parts to arrive. Luckily there are other cars in our household so I can take my time and not stress about completing.
Very awesome, these pain pens are awesome for so many things, even around the house, kids bikes and scooters. I am happy to help you with this. If you have any questions hit me up on Instagram. Thank you for watching.
Well depends on what your doing it for, how many miles on vehicle and what kind of vehicle. Usually if you are going to do a chain you do a while timing chain kit with tensioners, guides, sprockets and all.
Hello, maybe you can help. I hired a friend of a friend, someone who said he knew how to replaced a timing belt in my 2007 Honda Accord 3.0, in my driveway. He obviously didn't watch your video because although he got the new belt in place it looked fine until he started to crank the engine by hand and it crawled off the back sprocket. I stopped him from turning crankshaft. I then noticed the belt was also coming out with the gear around the crankshaft. He attempted to push it back on and then put the harmonic balance on. He attempted to crank the engine again by hand to get the belt back into place but it seemed to get tighter. He then remover the chain tension-er which caused the pulleys to move a lot. Unfortunately, he need to leave, in a hurry, I might add, saying he'd be back. I'm still waiting! Aside from my trying to save a buck, any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Nice suggestion with the sharpie. Just ordered some through link. Attempting to do 2000 Camry and this should serve me well, now just need some tips on keeping camshaft sprocket from moving wnen un bolting to change seal. Thanks again from mostly sunny Az
Thank you very much, and you will love the paint markers. As far as keeping cam from moving sometimes you have to let it settle in a spot, remove sprocket, replace seal then put it back to where it needs to be for timing the engine. Thank you for watching.
quad cam engines can be the hardest to time. Make darn sure you have it timed correctly. Use the paint pen method it works great. Thank you for watching.
I have used this hack before on a subaru, it'sa good trick...but i just got done doing a honda j35, myself...i tried this...and it didn't make any difference. I eventually got it after thinking real hard on it, but, my problem was every time i released the tensioner it pulled the cams back 1 tooth. I got really frustrated and quit for the night and thought about it. My solution (which may or may not have been the correct method) was to put the cams 1 tooth ahead before releasing the tensioner. Right or wrong, it worked like a charm and the car runs perfectly..better than it did before tbh.
If you have all the marks lined up correctly and put the belt on with the slack on tensioner side then should go on right. This truck only works if the engine was correctly timed to start. I use this everytime I do a timing belt but only if engine is timed right. Thanks for watching
intake valve prone to hit the piston than the exhaust. dual timing belt mod made it last forever.. and mix the engine oil with vegetable corn and palm oil.. they are more slipery than oil.. you can confirm by dill some steel with motor oil vs vegetable
my timing belt was aligned according to the gear but not to the belt itself now it is way unaligned it is like 1 each away from the mark I made, but when I put the belt it was good, how can I fix that?
Ok so if the timing marks are off unfortunately you need to take it off and retime the engine. Some timing belts come with the belt marked. Did you mark the old belt and then transfer to new belt? Sometimes on V6 engines the rear cam can be misaligned because it is difficult to see, make sure you look at that cam with a mirror so you can look at it straight. If you have any additional questions feel free to send me a message on instagram, I will be happy to help you.
You have to roll engine over and align the timing marks and make sure they all line up. It depends on the engine for the timing. If you have any specific info about something message me on instagram and I can you. Thank you for watching.
Absolutely. I cannot tell you how many techs that have double the experience then me come up and say I just did timing belt on this dual cam engine and now does not run right. I ask them if they marked the belt and they say no that is stupid I know how to time the engine. The belt is always off, mistimed engine. Thanks for watching.
My timing belt broke while driving car.. At first didn't know it was timing belt so hauled it home to garage.. I finally inspected and inspected and found out it was the timing belt...Was broken and replaced it but noticed that the marks on top cams never aligned... Now I'm stuck and have been told that I probably have to open up motor to get them back aligned... Wat can I do before info this...? Never done this before.. Oh and I forgot to say that this is on a 2007 pt cruiser with a 2.4... No turbo...
Ok great news I have done this timing belt alot. First off this is an interference engine meaning that the valves can hit the pistons if belt breaks, hopefully that is not the case. Yes you have to open up the motor again. you need the crank to line up with the mark and the cams are the hardest part because of the design they can look lined up but still be off a tooth. on each cam sprockets there is a stamped word on sprockets UP. both cams sprockets have to have the up at the top. second is the marks, they can look lined but be off, there is a actually a mark on each side of the sprocket and you have to hold a straight edge across all 4 marks and make sure they line up. I have actually had to help multiple mechanics with this timing belt. it is very common to get off. Please message me on instagram and I can help you out further. Thank you for watching I appreciate it.
I was unable to be sure about how many teeth on the belt because my timing belt was torn apart, when aligning the cams didn't feel like the valves were hitting and just finger tight on the plugs turning the crankshaft, I heard equal strong escape air pressure on each piston at TDC 4 times each, but it's taking me a month of Sunday's to slip the timing belt on the left (intake side) pulley. I have all the gears tiestrapped down to the belt, tensioner bolt finger tight, loosened the water pump all marks are aligned, even used dish soap as lube. But it's still a cunthair too tight and I don't want to risk damaging the belt. Any ideas?
On my 85 300zx the manufacturer actually puts the lines in the timing belt so the lines are perfectly lined up with timing marks. It’s very hard to mess up. I wish this was standard.
Yeah there are some manufacturers that do that even now. Most of the time the crank is not marked on belt in a way it can be seen easily so I just mark them always just in case. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone i tried to find you on Instagram couldn't find you. My question is i have a 94 acura legend L 3.2l v6. I'm changing the timing belt. I set my timing marks on the camshafts at tdc on the crankshaft and I rotate to engine by hand 6 times and both camshafts are 3 teeth off retard not in advanced. I've done this 4 times with the same result. Any ideas? And the teeth aren't jumping. And its a spring loaded tensioner thanks for your help
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I'm about to change timingb. on my motorhome. Ducato 2.3 mjet, and I have been there with one cog error, on my Renault Kangoo. Not the cam but the fricking diesel pump. So your tip is an excellent way to prevent errors that has its source from stress or stupid engine marking. Always a pleasure to see pro's in action 👍
why WOULD ANYONE mark the OLD belt ....the new belt it doesnt matter which tooth goes where,as long as its fitting the gear correctly .....The cam pulley & crank pulley is whats crucial. to me its pointless to mark a new belt or old belt even.
Hes saying mark a line on old belt and crank and old belt and cam then transfer marks to new belt and align that with marks on on cam and crank. This actually helps assuming the timing is already good when the car comes in. Last job had I not done that I would have been one tooth off. Those this technique assumes timing is already perfect when car comes in. If it's non interference and it could.es in with broken belt this technique is useless
@@NutsandBoltswithTone well I did this job not too long ago, new belt had no marks on it. I lined up all the sprockets, installed the belt and counted the teeth in between each sprocket, put it all back together and fired right up and runs flawlessly
Since you asked for a timing belt story, I've got one for you. Thanks for the video, can you or anyone else explain this to me plz? This is the first time I did the timing belt on my '93 Accord. The last time the timing belt water pump was done by a mechanic about 5 years ago, who has been since retired. The car was running smoothly, however when I opened up the timing cover, I found the crank pulley was 1 tooth off to the left of the mark where it is supposed to be, the left balancer pulley was about 2 teeth off to the left, and the right balancer oil pulley was about 6 teeth off to the right. I marked all the belts and pulley locations as where they were. The same great idea of yours, markings. I then set the pulleys and belts to tdc and lined up as per service manual. Put everything back together, and now the car doesn't run like it was before I set the timing belt and pulleys back according the manual, what gives? Was the old mechanic correct to off set the pulleys in the first place? Should I go with the manual and keep it as is and then adjust it with the "ray" gun and the distributor? I've everything marked so I can always go back and set as the mechanic did but would prefer to do it as the manufacture intended it so I can learn along the way too. Thanks
Hey thanks for the story, ok Hear is my thoughts, if the timing belt was not lining up with all the factory marks then you cannot use the paint marker. First step in timing belts is to set engine to TDC and confirm if all marks are lined up. If not then marking belt cannot help you because it was off before you started. Now if all marks line up then you mark old belt then new one and put it back in. I would set it up like the factory has it. If you still need help please message me on Instagram and I can help you some more. Thanks for watching.
Well ur tech no darn silly, for us mech&technician nothing is impossible ,,, just like Dr. Einstein said " Necessity is the mother of all Invention"....
Well first I would like to say thank you for watching. I understand about wanting more content and less talking, I am a flat rate tech and record while I am working. I made sure to talk about every thing I needed too.
🤦♂️Maan why is my timing belt moved on me 3 times,.I can't get it to time right. Is a 02 Toyota Tacoma prerunner and is kicking my butt. 💥3 times and just won't stay lined up
Anyone ever done this on a tdi 1.9 alh volkswagen? To me it makes sense. You wouldn't have to pop off the cam gear or loosen up the bolts on the injection pump. Everything should be where it needs to be. Just back off the tensioner and put the new belt on and tension it back up. Or maybe I'm missing something?
Not sure with the TDI but this works on every timing belt job provided the engine is in proper time before doing the job and also that the timing belt has not broken. You set the engine to top dead center, confirm all the timing marks line up properly, mark all the pulleys that are part of the timing of the engine, injection pumps, oil pumps etc. Then remove the belt, lay on the ground or table, put new belt on top. Mark new belt all the way around, then go around once more and confirm marks are correct, then install in engine line up all paint marks and if marks all line up, release tension on belt. Roll over engine two times, confirm all engine marks line up. The paint marks on belt with not line up again but all pulleys need to line up. Thanks for watching.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
This method is great for the correct initial installation of the belt on the pulleys. Usually novices don't know how much they should pull the belt by hand between pulleys. Painted marking helps them to install the belt with minimal slackness before pulling the tensioner pin. To be more accurate, it is better to count the number of belt teeth between pulleys rather than just aligning the old belt with the new one and transferring the marks to the new belt. I both align the belts and count the teeth to make sure the marks are painted at 100% correct position on the new belt.
that is great information and you are correct counting the teeth is the for sure best way to make sure. thank you for watching.
Yep,if I'm not sure that's exactly what I do. I recently used a made in Germany optibelt on a toyota and I counted the teeth on the belt to be 100% sure. It's a fail safe way of doing timing belts.
@@sickofthebullshit1967 Yeah, that's a great method for beginners too but after a while, you will get the hang of it and can align the belt even without using the marks.
@Nariman Asgharian as long as there is the same amount of teeth in the new belt as the old one then there's no problem with needing marks on the belt,but the belts do need to rotate the right way. Not everyone is a fckn a grade mechanic are they dbag.
@@sickofthebullshit1967 Yes, counting the number of teeth will suffice if you are not 100% beginner.
Thanks for making this video, Tone. As a mere DIYer, videos like this are gold to me.
Oh man this is awesome to hear. I am happy to help. Thanks for watching
@@NutsandBoltswithTone Seriously, if not for video makers like you, I'd be so lost. I have a Lexus SC400 upon which I did a starter job in 2020. That was a trip to hell and back...and the timing belt is coming up soon. I'm gonna be reviewing this video a lot, as well as helping myself to your other videos too! Cheers! =)
This is old school knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for sharing this tip. Everyone should be using this tip because it ensures proper ‘off and on with new timing belt’. One day when it’s time for me to do a timing belt I’ll be using your tip. Thank you for Down Under ‘Australia’ :)
You are correct, this is a foolproof method to keeping engine in proper time. Thank you for watching
Thats a great tech tip! 1990 toyota 2C eng. ,,, 1st i mishandled 1teeth advance eng. did not run after 2hours review its ok, so i did ur tech to 2 other engines!!.. 1click ran at random,,, urs perfect!!!
Thanks
I'm glad I saw this. It's just plain smart! I've never done a timing belt, but my 1995 Accord is due for one and this will make things a bit easier. Thanks Tone!
Thank you very much for watching and I am happy you saw this first. It is the simplest thing to do to make sure it is correct.
Thanks a lot for this!! Got all the parts together to do a Timing Belt on a 1989 Isuzu Trooper 2.6L SOHC. It's an interference engine and I'm nervous of making a mess of things.
I understand being nervous, I am happy you came across my video and think you will be successful.
Do you install the pin after you crank the engine
@Alexis-y3w not sure what pin you are installing. Message me on Instagram i can help u
Nice! Thank you, it's always good to have an alternative way to place the marks. As long as you know it was in time before. you can place the marks technically anywhere.
Getting ready to do a 97 3.0 Ford/ Mercury Villager timing belt/ tensioner/ water pump etc. Your video is great and much appreciated.
Thank you I appreciate you watching. I would only advise that you make sure the engine is at TDC
do you know possibly if i can visualize the timing belt and the proper alignement on a v6 toyota camry le
@jogrowscalifornia I actually just partnered with a company that sells oem repair guOFF. Called Emanualonline.com. They are online and cost between 20 and 49. Use code NUTS&BOLTSWITHTONE and get 22% Off.
Great tip. I have never messed up a timing belt, but I'm not doing it professionally either, so just a rare occurrence on my own cars. They do freak me right out though, especially if I was to completely mess up the timing and cause major damage. Thanks for this tip. Better safe and make everything
You are very welcome and happy to hear you haven't any troubles. Yes better safe then sorry. Even though I do this professionally I still do it everytime. Thanks for watching
Huge help I’m a diy’er and I’m wondering if u could check and set timing without taking the harmonic balancer, on a similar engine , 3.2L
You could check it but you are only looking at the outside of the balancer, and they are known to slip so the timing could be off. Removing everything is the best way to do it right and not cause any damage. Thanks for watching.
Doing a timing belt renewal on my 6th Gen Celica ST202. Thanks a tonne dude for the tip.
Awesome. Thank you for watching and good luck.
How do you realign it all back when you barely turned the crank without the crank key in while cranking?
Got to turn engine until all marks line up with engine. Thanks for watching.
Yes this does help and I'm not a mechanic but I have got to fix my car so yeah this does help alot thanku
Thank you and it is a great thing to do so you do not make a mistake. Thanks for watching.
How would you time an engine after the belt breaks to find tdc and have cams and crank on the correct marks?
Unless you were familiar with them engine you would need the proper repair information. If you message me on Instagram I could try to help you out. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone thank you I appreciate the reply and willingness to help. Nothing I'm working on currently just a question I've always had and could never really get an answer for
I need help … some how I moved the passages side of the over head twin cam 2001 Nissan frontier…. Is there a easy way move the cam back
I am sorry to hear this, here is a link to a tool that works for that provided there are holes in the cam sprocket. amzn.to/42i8uGH
If you have any further questions please feel free to message me on my Instagram. Thanks for watching.
i just did a timing belt job on the v6 sienna and its off a little now , it runs yes and starts but it not idling rite , cold or hot idle , so now i need to find some good tools for taking off timing belt and put it back on with everything in perfect sync.
Usually when a vehicle runs rough after timing belt job it is not timed correctly.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone no this one does not run rough at all . its only off time bye maybe a half a tooth . it still gets up good when i need the power , it just has a lower idle then normal on a cold start . but other then all that its runs smooth enough to drive and not be a danger on the freeway,s
@@rueagonvyceratops2879 well that's good to hear. Timing belt cannot be off by half a tooth. One or more teeth.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone well i don't know how much its off , to end a debate it runs and um not messing with it again , until needed. because i don't have 700 dollars to have it took to a mechanic to have it took back off , and put on acuter in the timing . i just adjusted throttle up some and it idles now . now all the time on cold start but it idles ,
@@rueagonvyceratops2879 sounds good. I hope everything continues in this direction.
Hi Tom, what if timing belt is broke? How would you line the marks? Thanks
You have to look up the timing marks per service information. Thanks for watching
Man, nice job. I watched most of the video before doing my 2010 Kia Soul 2.0 and marked my belts but apparently I still didn't get it quite right and missed a few of your good tips. It runs great or seems to but my check engine light is on. From what I'm reading I'm probably off a tooth or two. I could never quite see the lower harmonic markings quite well and thought that since I never moved it that I'd be ok. I also never seemed to have slack on the tensioner side like I saw in your video and aren't quite sure why. I can see the upper mark clearly on the cam pully of course but I'm not quite sure on the lower gear for the harmonic balancer. I would assume that I would need to make sure that the lower gear is lined up with its mark before proceeding? I loathe the idea of doing all of this again and still being off. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated, thanks in advance, Ben.
You should always mark crank and both cams and in a place that you can make sure it is exactly like it was prior. Thank you for watching. feel free to message me on instagram if you need anything.
Better tip is that instead of transferring mark from old belt to new belt by placing one top on another one, just count number of teeths between marks on the old belt. Mark on new belt by counting same number of teeths. This way you are not open to risk of mis marking slightly.
That sounds like a great idea however that would take a lot longer and in my opinion would have a better chance of making a mistake. I go around the belt mark everything and then go back and double check. have not had a problem. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone how can you make a mistake with counting method? Your method has risk of transferring marks from stretched belt (of course old belt does stretch) to unstretched new belt. Speaking of taking lot of time, which one do you need, couple of extra minutes or destroyed engine due to wrong marking?
@SK hey bud I get it I've been using my method for 17 years and I've had no problem. If you would rather count like 200 or so teeth then you have fun. I appreciate your input but for me my method would be more efficient. Also easier to see the marks.
100% agree:)) your eyes don't lie, counting errors unfortunately exist:)
😂😂
I put a timing belt on my 02 3.0 Accord and spawn it one time on the crank saw the cams were 180 out and took the belt off was moving the rear can and it's spun on me. How do I Ensure that decams and the crank are lined up correctly before I reinstall the belt? Thanks in advance
You will want to confirm the timing marks for the cams and crank. Thanks for watching
i been looking for a video to explain belt preload. had many cars come to me where someone put a belt on but didnt load the belt on the idler side and they pulled the pin thinking it was timed right, but when it took the slack out of the belt it caused it to be off a tooth or two. right at 8:30 you kinda mentioned it. might be a good video
That is a good idea, I will toss that idea around. crazy thing is if you do not remove slack on right side of tensioner, once you pull pin and turn over the engine it will be out of time. Funny thing is sounds like people are not checking it after doing belt. Thank you for watching.
Hey bub . I’m replacing a secondary timing chain tensioner dual overhead cam’s on a Lincoln LS 2005 V8 when I took the valve cover off there is no holes in the sprocket for me to zip tie the chain and sprocket together. How do you recommend I go about tackling that job?
So I am out on disability and do not have access to repair info, however you probably do not need to zip tie the two together just keep chain supported up and remove sprocket. I am not sure on this job but I do know that I do not zip tie chains to sprockets very often. I will use a bungee cord to keep chain pulled up to not let slack fall down. I hope this helps. If you need any further help you can message me on my Instagram. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone you’re correct didn’t need a zip tie at all
Great idea, marks covered up & bad angles to view from are a problem. Had a bad day back when,checking to see if the engine sounded good,rev up, what's that? something ain't right-my first experience with a rev limiter..
Oh damn yeah those are wierd.
So got an 3vze toyota 1990 pickup new long block ready to swap parts right over. They sent belt already marked I set everything 3different times on the timing but after putting the crankshaft cover plate on and then turning it over with an wrench the 2 top dead center on the cams are landing on but from the time of setting it has landed on the crank shaft slightly left of zero any ideas I just dont want to ruin the engine or all the efforts I've put in?
OMG I have done so many of these, so with timing belts there is no such thing as a half a tooth, so generally if timing appears off it usually due to not looking at the marks completely straight. If the belt is already marked the only thing you have to do is make sure that it is on the right way and not backwards if your marks are all lining up then it is not on backwards. from there you set all the marks to the engine marks, pull the pin on the tensioner and turn over the engine 2 full revolutions. make sure all your cams and crank line up with the engine marks. If you have not pulled the pin on the tensioner and turned it over twice then that would explain it seeming like it was off. best way to think about it is as long as it is not one tooth off then it is ok. Like I said no such thing as a half a tooth. Please let me know how this turns out. I appreciate you watching. If you have any further questions you can reach out to me on my instagram.
That's all great Sir but what if Joe smold already took everything off and did not mark anything and now vehicle or jaguar 3.0 is missing bad have any advise please desperate
Well you have to look up the diagram for the timing belt, timing marks and procedure. If you message me on instagram I may be able to help you. Thank you for watching.
Excellent tips!! Both pens and suggestions..LOL.
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching.
Yep I’m watching this video because I just did my first timing belt, thought everything went fine, sounded good….but there’s half the power on the gas pedal and it won’t rev over 3,000rpm. Looks like I’m the 3hr wasted time guy. I’m going to mark it like crazy when I redo tomorrow. God I hope it goes good. Live and learn! Thanks for the video!
Oh wow brotha so sorry to hear you are having trouble. Good luck with the next repair. Thanks for watching.
Great tip, thank you. I will be doing this.
Your welcome
I count the teeth on all new belts and chains, especially no-name belts. Once an Accord didn't run right after a new belt, long story short it was one tooth short in the belt....customer supplied eBay belt....
Great video and great tip that I use on every single timing job...even non chain/belt jobs like a cam sprocket on a 300 straight six Ford... always leave a map to get back to where you was before disassembly...
Yeah that is another way to do it, I agree simple little things to make reassembly easier. Thanks for watching.
The thing that made mine a little hard was the rear camshaft in the van , just made it a little harder to get the perfect line up of ti ing when i was doing the job
Yes the rear cam is more difficult to get lined up, I use a 3 inch mirror. Did you by chance use a paint marker for the old belt to new one? That is how you avoid this problem. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone i used a white crayon , it did not work the best , but i not pulling it back apart to redo , the vans running , and its it derivable so i will do that the next time i have too change the timing belt.
I did a belt kit on my Chevy epica 2.0 diesel,I really think I'm one tooth out on the cam but seem to have plenty of power,idling good but still think I'm a tooth out
Well if timing is off you will have slightly less power. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone yeah,you would loose compression. I'm going to recheck it but after 500 miles,all ok,idling ok and plenty of power
I’m more of a visual learner so I would’ve liked to see are by step to understand.
This video was just about marking the timing belt prior to taking it off and marking new one before putting it on. I have videos on doing timing belt repair and marking the belt.
get 2 differnt color pens mark one with tension on and 1 with tension off ,simple
How do u know if the cams are lined up right. I rotated them so marks were lined up.( belt was broken and customer installed the distributor) not sure if it was done right
Timing while running was like 40 to 50 degrees to the right
So in your timing belt kit there should be a manual on how to do the timing belt. there is a mark on both cams and the valve covers that should all like up. The crank has a mark as well. Now since the customer set distributor, I would get engine timed and set to top dead center for number one cylinder and make sure rotor is pointing at number 1 to make sure it was installed correctly. I do not think the distributor on this can be put in wrong but not 100 percent sure. If you are still unsure, message me on instagram and I can send you a diagram of the timing marks. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I have a 02 Accord 3.0 and I was replacing the timing belt and spun it after install one time saw that the cams were out and took the belt off like a dummy. My crank is on the mark but my right cam is pointing down and my left cam spun on me and I can't remember which direction to turn it back to get it right. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I just did the timing belt in my Jetta. It cranks over and runs but I keep getting the error code P0016. Crankshaft/Camshaft position sensor.
I know I slipped when working on putting the belt back in and I was just praying that it was just my imagination since the timing marks still looked lined ups.
I know it’s off by a tooth, how do I go about fixing it or getting it lined up again? 2013 Jetta 2.0
Thank you for the video. I will never do this without marking the belt and timing marks.
Update: I got it back aligned just half an hour ago! Omg what a relief. I was so stressed the heck out. Thank you! Runs like a champ and no more check engine light.
Usually if you got it one tooth off it because there was too much slack on the non tension side, the opposite side of the tensioner you need to make sure it is tight, easiest way is to line up timing marks, mark the belt and sprockets so you dont put it back where you just had it. remove the belt and retime the engine making sure the belt is not back in the same spot. good luck and let me know how it turns out. thank you for watching.
Hello, maybe you can help. I hired a friend of a friend, someone who said he knew how to replaced a timing belt in my 2007 Honda Accord 3.0, in my driveway. He obviously didn't watch your video because although he got the new belt in place it looked fine until he started to crank the engine by hand and it crawled off the back sprocket. I stopped him from turning crankshaft. I then noticed the belt was also coming out with the gear around the crankshaft. He attempted to push it back on and then put the harmonic balance on. He attempted to crank the engine again by hand to get the belt back into place but it seemed to get tighter. He then remover the chain tension-er which caused the pulleys to move a lot. Unfortunately, he needed to leave, in a hurry I might add saying he'd be back. I'm still waiting! Aside from my trying to save a buck, any suggestions? How screwed am I? Thanks in advance.
I am not sure what you are explaining, if you message me on my instagram I can try to help you out. Thanks for watching.
Great tip. Just ordered the pens from eBay (for a few dollars cheaper than Amazon). Will be tackling TB and water pump and oil pump seal and gasket on my '97 Celica GT convertible, it has 234,000 miles but runs as smooth as butter, but not sure if and when TB changed (thankfully is a non-interference engine). Waiting for all of the associated parts to arrive. Luckily there are other cars in our household so I can take my time and not stress about completing.
Very awesome, these pain pens are awesome for so many things, even around the house, kids bikes and scooters. I am happy to help you with this. If you have any questions hit me up on Instagram. Thank you for watching.
I'm installing a new chain. Not a belt. Question is...do I use old chain or should I replace new chain?
Well depends on what your doing it for, how many miles on vehicle and what kind of vehicle. Usually if you are going to do a chain you do a while timing chain kit with tensioners, guides, sprockets and all.
Hello, maybe you can help. I hired a friend of a friend, someone who said he knew how to replaced a timing belt in my 2007 Honda Accord 3.0, in my driveway. He obviously didn't watch your video because although he got the new belt in place it looked fine until he started to crank the engine by hand and it crawled off the back sprocket. I stopped him from turning crankshaft. I then noticed the belt was also coming out with the gear around the crankshaft. He attempted to push it back on and then put the harmonic balance on. He attempted to crank the engine again by hand to get the belt back into place but it seemed to get tighter. He then remover the chain tension-er which caused the pulleys to move a lot. Unfortunately, he need to leave, in a hurry, I might add, saying he'd be back. I'm still waiting! Aside from my trying to save a buck, any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
What if it’s outa time , how do u fix it
You have to redo the timing belt job. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone
How do u get the timing back , that’s the question
@Gfhjhvj Gfvkjvv here is a link on how to do the timing belt on that engine, different car but same engine ruclips.net/video/4XsRmMPSsA4/видео.html
@@NutsandBoltswithTone
Thks , 👍 …
Nice suggestion with the sharpie. Just ordered some through link. Attempting to do 2000 Camry and this should serve me well, now just need some tips on keeping camshaft sprocket from moving wnen un bolting to change seal. Thanks again from mostly sunny Az
Thank you very much, and you will love the paint markers. As far as keeping cam from moving sometimes you have to let it settle in a spot, remove sprocket, replace seal then put it back to where it needs to be for timing the engine. Thank you for watching.
When my kids get here we are going to change the belt on a 2003 quad Sebring. This will be our first quad timing belt
quad cam engines can be the hardest to time. Make darn sure you have it timed correctly. Use the paint pen method it works great. Thank you for watching.
I have used this hack before on a subaru, it'sa good trick...but i just got done doing a honda j35, myself...i tried this...and it didn't make any difference. I eventually got it after thinking real hard on it, but, my problem was every time i released the tensioner it pulled the cams back 1 tooth. I got really frustrated and quit for the night and thought about it. My solution (which may or may not have been the correct method) was to put the cams 1 tooth ahead before releasing the tensioner. Right or wrong, it worked like a charm and the car runs perfectly..better than it did before tbh.
If you have all the marks lined up correctly and put the belt on with the slack on tensioner side then should go on right. This truck only works if the engine was correctly timed to start. I use this everytime I do a timing belt but only if engine is timed right. Thanks for watching
excellent video. I did this on my first t belt job
Awesome I'm glad that it worked for you. Thanks for watching
nice transfer.. 🤣👍👍🤤 need dual timing belt mod for redudancy.. only intake valve cam needed.. so can usen the belt till it's limit
x factor for prematurely wornout.. miss alignment roller or something bent couse by the snaps
I am not sure what you mean by this comment. Thank you for watching.
intake valve prone to hit the piston than the exhaust. dual timing belt mod made it last forever.. and mix the engine oil with vegetable corn and palm oil.. they are more slipery than oil.. you can confirm by dill some steel with motor oil vs vegetable
nomore premature wear on gear shifter arm
my timing belt was aligned according to the gear but not to the belt itself now it is way unaligned it is like 1 each away from the mark I made, but when I put the belt it was good, how can I fix that?
Ok so if the timing marks are off unfortunately you need to take it off and retime the engine. Some timing belts come with the belt marked. Did you mark the old belt and then transfer to new belt? Sometimes on V6 engines the rear cam can be misaligned because it is difficult to see, make sure you look at that cam with a mirror so you can look at it straight. If you have any additional questions feel free to send me a message on instagram, I will be happy to help you.
How do you make sure it’s in time?
You have to roll engine over and align the timing marks and make sure they all line up. It depends on the engine for the timing. If you have any specific info about something message me on instagram and I can you. Thank you for watching.
look at the clock
Very Good!
@@DaygoDown Thank you.
Thank you great advice
Glad I found this! Doing a timing belt replacement tomorrow on a 1998 dodge neon! What was the pin on the tensioner?
I'm happy you found the video. What do you mean on on the tensioner?
I mainly want to know how to pull the tensioner back so I can easily slip the new belt on.
@@computernostalgia6293 if you can message me on Instagram with the vehicle I can look it up and help u out.
Sounds like a good idea To me extra level of assurance
Absolutely. I cannot tell you how many techs that have double the experience then me come up and say I just did timing belt on this dual cam engine and now does not run right. I ask them if they marked the belt and they say no that is stupid I know how to time the engine. The belt is always off, mistimed engine. Thanks for watching.
Thank you
Your welcome
If its off theres a vacuum hose trick or a Philips drill bit trick
Yeah there is. Thanks for watching
I do the same thing and count the belt teeth as well.
Very nice, I don't count teeth buy same thing. Thanks for watching I appreciate it
Very instructive thanks a lot.
You are welcome thanks for watching
Very good explanation and demonstration 🙏👍👌🙏
Thank you very much. I mistimed my very first dual over head cam timing belt so I have done this ever since. Thanks for watching.
thanks. wish I'd done this!!
At least you know for next time. Thanks for watching.
My timing belt broke while driving car.. At first didn't know it was timing belt so hauled it home to garage.. I finally inspected and inspected and found out it was the timing belt...Was broken and replaced it but noticed that the marks on top cams never aligned... Now I'm stuck and have been told that I probably have to open up motor to get them back aligned... Wat can I do before info this...? Never done this before.. Oh and I forgot to say that this is on a 2007 pt cruiser with a 2.4... No turbo...
Ok great news I have done this timing belt alot. First off this is an interference engine meaning that the valves can hit the pistons if belt breaks, hopefully that is not the case. Yes you have to open up the motor again. you need the crank to line up with the mark and the cams are the hardest part because of the design they can look lined up but still be off a tooth. on each cam sprockets there is a stamped word on sprockets UP. both cams sprockets have to have the up at the top. second is the marks, they can look lined but be off, there is a actually a mark on each side of the sprocket and you have to hold a straight edge across all 4 marks and make sure they line up. I have actually had to help multiple mechanics with this timing belt. it is very common to get off. Please message me on instagram and I can help you out further. Thank you for watching I appreciate it.
I was unable to be sure about how many teeth on the belt because my timing belt was torn apart, when aligning the cams didn't feel like the valves were hitting and just finger tight on the plugs turning the crankshaft, I heard equal strong escape air pressure on each piston at TDC 4 times each, but it's taking me a month of Sunday's to slip the timing belt on the left (intake side) pulley. I have all the gears tiestrapped down to the belt, tensioner bolt finger tight, loosened the water pump all marks are aligned, even used dish soap as lube. But it's still a cunthair too tight and I don't want to risk damaging the belt. Any ideas?
Message me your vehicle info on Instagram I'll try to help you out. Thanks for watching
On my 85 300zx the manufacturer actually puts the lines in the timing belt so the lines are perfectly lined up with timing marks. It’s very hard to mess up. I wish this was standard.
Yeah there are some manufacturers that do that even now. Most of the time the crank is not marked on belt in a way it can be seen easily so I just mark them always just in case. Thank you for watching.
How do you know you're at TDC when installing a timing belt on an acura legend 3.2l v6? Thanks
@@LostBoy1026 message me on Instagram vehicle info
@@NutsandBoltswithTone i tried to find you on Instagram couldn't find you.
My question is i have a 94 acura legend L 3.2l v6. I'm changing the timing belt. I set my timing marks on the camshafts at tdc on the crankshaft and I rotate to engine by hand 6 times and both camshafts are 3 teeth off retard not in advanced. I've done this 4 times with the same result. Any ideas? And the teeth aren't jumping. And its a spring loaded tensioner thanks for your help
Great video. Thanks for that.
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching
Thanks Bro!
@@MacRilla my pleasure
Thanks
your welcome
Excellent tip, thanks 👍
No problem. Thank you for your comment.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I'm about to change timingb. on my motorhome. Ducato 2.3 mjet, and I have been there with one cog error, on my Renault Kangoo. Not the cam but the fricking diesel pump. So your tip is an excellent way to prevent errors that has its source from stress or stupid engine marking. Always a pleasure to see pro's in action 👍
@@gx1400sc awe man that is awesome to hear. I am glad I was able to help.
No sound on video
Not sure what you mean
wow pretty smart, didnt think about transferring marks from an old to new, but i do put marks when re using a belt. great tip bro
Thank you man. Works really well.
God bless you
Thank you very much and I appreciate you watching
why WOULD ANYONE mark the OLD belt ....the new belt it doesnt matter which tooth goes where,as long as its fitting the gear correctly .....The cam pulley & crank pulley is whats crucial. to me its pointless to mark a new belt or old belt even.
Sure
@97warlock wants you to blow your engine up. Stay safe
Hes saying mark a line on old belt and crank and old belt and cam then transfer marks to new belt and align that with marks on on cam and crank. This actually helps assuming the timing is already good when the car comes in. Last job had I not done that I would have been one tooth off. Those this technique assumes timing is already perfect when car comes in. If it's non interference and it could.es in with broken belt this technique is useless
Belt doesn’t matter, it’s the cams and sprockets that make the timing accurate. Belt placement doesn’t matter
Belt placement actually matters completely. You have to have all the sprockets lined up correctly and the belt has to be connected and lined up.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone well I did this job not too long ago, new belt had no marks on it. I lined up all the sprockets, installed the belt and counted the teeth in between each sprocket, put it all back together and fired right up and runs flawlessly
smart move..
Thank you and to be honest it works everytime. Thank you for watching.
ngieford in roseburg oregon
Not sure what you mean by this comment. Thank you for watching.
Suppose the wife'ys fluorescent nail varnish works a treat !
Sure that may works as well, oil could be an issue. Thanks for watching.
Since you asked for a timing belt story, I've got one for you.
Thanks for the video, can you or anyone else explain this to me plz?
This is the first time I did the timing belt on my '93 Accord. The last time the timing belt water pump was done by a mechanic about 5 years ago, who has been since retired.
The car was running smoothly, however when I opened up the timing cover, I found the crank pulley was 1 tooth off to the left of the mark where it is supposed to be, the left balancer pulley was about 2 teeth off to the left, and the right balancer oil pulley was about 6 teeth off to the right. I marked all the belts and pulley locations as where they were. The same great idea of yours, markings.
I then set the pulleys and belts to tdc and lined up as per service manual. Put everything back together, and now the car doesn't run like it was before I set the timing belt and pulleys back according the manual, what gives?
Was the old mechanic correct to off set the pulleys in the first place? Should I go with the manual and keep it as is and then adjust it with the "ray" gun and the distributor?
I've everything marked so I can always go back and set as the mechanic did but would prefer to do it as the manufacture intended it so I can learn along the way too.
Thanks
Hey thanks for the story, ok Hear is my thoughts, if the timing belt was not lining up with all the factory marks then you cannot use the paint marker. First step in timing belts is to set engine to TDC and confirm if all marks are lined up. If not then marking belt cannot help you because it was off before you started. Now if all marks line up then you mark old belt then new one and put it back in. I would set it up like the factory has it. If you still need help please message me on Instagram and I can help you some more. Thanks for watching.
Wish I had watched this video prior to changing my timing belt. Oh well.. I will know next time.
Oh yeah that is too bad. Did you have any problems or just to make it easier? Thank you for watching.
Well ur tech no darn silly, for us mech&technician nothing is impossible ,,, just like Dr. Einstein said " Necessity is the mother of all Invention"....
Jeez, I appreciate the knowledge but when youre broke down in traffic you just want the info
Ah yeah that sucks being broke down period sucks. Thanks for watching. Hit me up on Instagram if u need any help. Thanks for watching
This only works if your belt hasn’t ripped and had gears spin out of place
This is absolutely correct. The other thing that makes a difference is that the engine is in proper time before starting or cannot use this
You talk too much without practice examples..too much explanation
@valentinebwalya6241 ok no problem. Go watch some of my timing belt videos you'll see me doing it.
I just don't like the aesthetics...
I am unclear on what you mean, you don't like the aesthetics. What are you referring to? Thanks for watching.
Work rather then talk kid
Sure ok but then you would not be able to get my valuable information. But hey thanks for watching me talk. lol
I would say it was a almost perfect video but you just talked a bit too much and showed not much of the actual job. Otherwise good video man. Thanks
Well first I would like to say thank you for watching. I understand about wanting more content and less talking, I am a flat rate tech and record while I am working. I made sure to talk about every thing I needed too.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone no worries man, it was good video anyway👍
@@thesoulofmemories thank u for watching I appreciate it
🤦♂️Maan why is my timing belt moved on me 3 times,.I can't get it to time right. Is a 02 Toyota Tacoma prerunner and is kicking my butt. 💥3 times and just won't stay lined up
I am not sure what is wrong, those are generally fairly straight forward engines to time. Thank you for watching
Anyone ever done this on a tdi 1.9 alh volkswagen? To me it makes sense. You wouldn't have to pop off the cam gear or loosen up the bolts on the injection pump. Everything should be where it needs to be. Just back off the tensioner and put the new belt on and tension it back up. Or maybe I'm missing something?
Not sure with the TDI but this works on every timing belt job provided the engine is in proper time before doing the job and also that the timing belt has not broken. You set the engine to top dead center, confirm all the timing marks line up properly, mark all the pulleys that are part of the timing of the engine, injection pumps, oil pumps etc. Then remove the belt, lay on the ground or table, put new belt on top. Mark new belt all the way around, then go around once more and confirm marks are correct, then install in engine line up all paint marks and if marks all line up, release tension on belt. Roll over engine two times, confirm all engine marks line up. The paint marks on belt with not line up again but all pulleys need to line up. Thanks for watching.