This is just one of the reasons an NA Miata is a great car for someone to learn auto mechanics on. They are built so it is harder to mess things up so bad that it can't be fixed. Thanks for this video clarifying some of the basics!
My first Miata timing belt failure was roadside, that sucked and I had no idea what was going on :( That was 6 or 7 years ago on my '91 and I got everything I needed then from FM. I just did my 2nd one a few months ago on my '01 because I was refreshing the entire cooling system due to the car running too hot (I think it ended up just being the radiator but I feel better about doing the whole thing anyway) and I again got all the timing system things from FM along with more specialty tools to make the job simpler. Much thanks to FM for being a great source of parts and an even better knowledge base :)
I got everything i needed from you guys last summer when i did my first timing belt on my 91. Ive had the car since 05 amd the belt seemed to still be serviceable. Had to change it out because the water pump was leaking
Ive used the Gates racing belts (timing and drive belts), on several Miatas now, I have never heard the timing belt squeal but the drive belts particularly the A/C belt squeals like mad. Nothing I have found will stop it either. On the plus side it lasts forever, the downside is the squealing is maddening at times. Most times if you turn the A/C off and get the car up to speed then turn it back on the squealing will stop and usually once the car is heated up it wont squeal anymore til it cools down again. The anti squeal additives you can buy dont seem to stop it from happening. Considering how easy it is to replace the drive belts I may go back to regular belts and just keep a couple spares in the trunk when the current Gates belts get worn.
I’ve done a few NCs that have broken the chains over the last ten years. And every single time the culprit it lack of oil change. They all were around 130k miles as well. Neglect will cause anything to fail. Sadly on those the heads had to be pulled because the valves got bent or broken. If you use the racing belts on the NA NB chassis, they last around 80-100k miles depending on power output. Running 200 plus and the belt I have is still fine after 80k miles. I recommend that belt over the continental if I see the car is a neglected car. Customers are happy. And I don’t have to see them until something breaks which is rarely.
Good question! Mazda doesn't specify an age limit for the timing belt, but they can dry-rot and fail. Conditions will make a big difference on the rubber's lifespan, but we would replace it every 10-15 years, even if you haven't reached the 60K milage yet.
I have a question, can it still be fixed if the timing belt got lose because of the bolt of hydraulic thing got broken, do i have to replace the whole engine?
The timing belt tensioner bolt threads into the water pump so, if that's messed up, the water pump is pretty easy to replace. If it's the timing belt idler pulley, it's the same situation.
Hi , I have a Chevy '98 with 3.1 engine, recently My Chaín broke. As You said in a couple of minutes, I thought, It was lack of gas, that Is how the car was feeling ( because My tank's floater Is failing) I didnt notice, that My car (And me)was about to suffer such dramatic event. Even the car gave me the oportunity to go a 3 or 4 miles to the gas station to charge gas And return home. When i parked, I opened the hood and (with motor working)It was when i realized, that It wasnt a "simple lack of gas event" suddenly I heard a strong smack inside the engine that "shake" all, even the hood, after that the engine keep on running making "metal noisés" vibrating, strong shaking, AND noisés like that, like a horror movie, the worst "nightmare!" It was like My car just about waiting to park to suffer a heart attack, that's the comparison i make. I'm very upset with My self, because I knew, that I should have done this before (changing the Chaín) I simple i ignore. The last december 21th I still was running great and smooth here inside streets of México city , specifically " avenues called "circuito interior " that aré avenues like, "Speedways" running like 90 miles per hour. and Now just days after My motor sounds like a yunk. I wonder, and i ask to You ?do You think If My engine could be repaired? Do You think If changing valves and pushrods ,its enough? Or the Camshaft should be changed too? Or just damaged valves and Pushrods? Or Should be all? Pistons? After Smacking with a valve? Could being still working usually? The Head? Should be Changed? Or Could I use the Same? (I mean the "case"where Valve train Is located, because I wonder if? After a Valve being bent by piston, smacked, thrown back with speed, I wonder if the Valve doesnt make damage around?)Buying a New Camshaft, pushrods, lifters, springs, "all this parts New" can be installed" as Is" ? Or should be "Send" to the specialized garage where make parts of a engine get the perfect adjustment" Here in Mexico, We call this "rectificadora"? Its annoying that all mechanic always want to Send "everything" to rectify."parts of Head' Aré they lazy? Its a bad habit? so I wonder ? And I ask to You? Its real necessary to "rectify" a New Valve?Why Is so difficult To make "Seal" a New Valve inside a piston, If its supposedly its New? and oem designed For an specific engine? "Rectify" means make wear to metal parts to " achieve adjustment" i dont want that! If "everything" Is New? Why should being rectify? (I refer specifically camshaft, valves, lifters, springs, and pushrods ) What do You suggest? Thanks For watching
I have an 03 with 30k miles on it, should I be looking into replacing ym belt earlier, or is it likely to hold (all other things going well) until 60k?
Good question! Mazda doesn't specify an age limit for the timing belt, but they can dry-rot and fail. Conditions will make a big difference on the rubber's lifespan, but we would replace it every 10-15 years, even if you haven't reached the 60K milage yet.
60K mi. ..... Or ..... 6 Years. Whichever come first. A lot of Miata's are weekend warriors and don't pile up the mileage. I see na6's with less then 60k all the time. Point being milage can NOT be the only gauge. Belts are made of rubber like tires, and like tires they begin oxidizing or breaking down on a molecular scale, once they get popped out of the mold. NHTSA recommends replacing tires, regardless of milage, every 6-10 years. I'd say any critical rubber should also be replaced in that year range. Different variables are also a factor. Hot arid climate versus cool humid air all plays a part, but to be safe I would say to do your timing belt every 60K mi. (OR) every 6 years. Whichever comes first.
I have a for it Dodge Caravan, 2005 with 83K miles. I like to warm it up before I drive in the morning. The other day I started, and sat inside waiting for it to warm up, it stopped by itself. I tried to start again, it would crank but wouldn't start. Towed to the mechanic, he checked it and told me timing belt is broken. He wouldn't know if the engine is ok till he installs new timing belt and see if the van starts. Do you think the engine is damaged?
If you purchase both items from us, it will be around $225 with free shipping in the US. Our timing belt kit also includes a new valve cover gasket, cam seals, a front main seal, thermostat neck O-ring and a CAS O-ring if applicable.
The belt snapped on my 99 Tacoma while on the highway and made a horrible sound. Had it towed and I just installed a new timing belt kit. I lined up the cams and crank pulley before reinstalling the new belt and when I went to start the engine, it sounded the same way that when I tried to start it on the highway. So, I don't think I installed the belt incorrectly. What could be the issue that caused the belt to snap and could that issue still be present? Thanks for the time and the great videos.
Thanks. Is it always good idea to remove spark plugs from the engine whenever l rotate the engine for checking timing marks, this will allow me to feel, if the pison interfering with the valves? At that time l will stop immediately rotating the engine in order to stop the potential damage.
@Certitude365 You do not need to remove the spark plugs to rotate the engine. If the pistons are interfering with the valves on your engine, it is likely that you won't be able to rotate the engine over at all. On NA/NB Miatas, the engine is non-interference which means that the pistons will not contact the valves at all.
There were some high compression JDM variants that might have some interference issues, but we don't have any definitive info to share about those. Sorry.
Folks .. A question in case someone could answer. In case the crank gear is slightly off... Is it too hard to adjust it in position?? Is it relatively easy or need to put much force into it?,
If you mean it’s not quite at TDC when you’re trying to check cam timing, just put it in neutral and use a wrench on the crank bolt to turn the engine clockwise. If you mean it’s not at TDC when the cams are, then you have to realign the timing belt. In the latter case, it’ll never be off slightly, it’ll always be at least a full tooth.
I have a 2012 Doge Journey the mechanic tells me I probably will need a timing belt change I don't know anything about cars but he says it's very dangerous if belt brakes it will be very costly cause he will break the engine is thi true. Thank you if somebody can help me on this situation it's hard to fine or thrust a good mechanic.
Miata engines are non-interference, meaning if the timing belt snaps you'll still be stuck on the side of the road, but repairs won't be as costly or damaging to the motor as an interference engine would.
why do all these teaching or info videos always have the timimg perfect take an engine with the camshaft off and show us how you move it so it is correct show and telll stop the jadda jadda jadda
This is just one of the reasons an NA Miata is a great car for someone to learn auto mechanics on. They are built so it is harder to mess things up so bad that it can't be fixed. Thanks for this video clarifying some of the basics!
Happy to help!
My first Miata timing belt failure was roadside, that sucked and I had no idea what was going on :( That was 6 or 7 years ago on my '91 and I got everything I needed then from FM. I just did my 2nd one a few months ago on my '01 because I was refreshing the entire cooling system due to the car running too hot (I think it ended up just being the radiator but I feel better about doing the whole thing anyway) and I again got all the timing system things from FM along with more specialty tools to make the job simpler. Much thanks to FM for being a great source of parts and an even better knowledge base :)
I got everything i needed from you guys last summer when i did my first timing belt on my 91. Ive had the car since 05 amd the belt seemed to still be serviceable. Had to change it out because the water pump was leaking
Always a good idea to go ahead and do both at once, just for peace of mind :)
Ive used the Gates racing belts (timing and drive belts), on several Miatas now, I have never heard the timing belt squeal but the drive belts particularly the A/C belt squeals like mad. Nothing I have found will stop it either. On the plus side it lasts forever, the downside is the squealing is maddening at times. Most times if you turn the A/C off and get the car up to speed then turn it back on the squealing will stop and usually once the car is heated up it wont squeal anymore til it cools down again. The anti squeal additives you can buy dont seem to stop it from happening. Considering how easy it is to replace the drive belts I may go back to regular belts and just keep a couple spares in the trunk when the current Gates belts get worn.
That good content keeps coming and it's wild how informative and rich they are!
Thank you!
I’ve done a few NCs that have broken the chains over the last ten years. And every single time the culprit it lack of oil change. They all were around 130k miles as well. Neglect will cause anything to fail. Sadly on those the heads had to be pulled because the valves got bent or broken. If you use the racing belts on the NA NB chassis, they last around 80-100k miles depending on power output. Running 200 plus and the belt I have is still fine after 80k miles. I recommend that belt over the continental if I see the car is a neglected car. Customers are happy. And I don’t have to see them until something breaks which is rarely.
Thanks! Appreciate the insight!
mine snapped 2 weeks ago, had it back on the road 4 hours later!
Glad you got it back on the road so fast!
That’s unbelievably quick! Took me an entire weekend.
Question: You mention replacing the timing belt every 60k miles. Is there also an age limit? I own a 1990 with under 60k miles.
Good question! Mazda doesn't specify an age limit for the timing belt, but they can dry-rot and fail. Conditions will make a big difference on the rubber's lifespan, but we would replace it every 10-15 years, even if you haven't reached the 60K milage yet.
my timing belt was changed 2014, has only 18000km(!). Should I change it?
It’s odd Mazda wouldn’t have an age recommendation but 10 years is about the industry standard
Another excellent video. Thanks.
Our pleasure!
I have a question, can it still be fixed if the timing belt got lose because of the bolt of hydraulic thing got broken, do i have to replace the whole engine?
The timing belt tensioner bolt threads into the water pump so, if that's messed up, the water pump is pretty easy to replace. If it's the timing belt idler pulley, it's the same situation.
Hi , I have a Chevy '98 with 3.1 engine, recently My Chaín broke. As You said in a couple of minutes, I thought, It was lack of gas, that Is how the car was feeling ( because My tank's floater Is failing) I didnt notice, that My car (And me)was about to suffer such dramatic event. Even the car gave me the oportunity to go a 3 or 4 miles to the gas station to charge gas And return home. When i parked, I opened the hood and (with motor working)It was when i realized, that It wasnt a "simple lack of gas event" suddenly I heard a strong smack inside the engine that "shake" all, even the hood, after that the engine keep on running making "metal noisés" vibrating, strong shaking, AND noisés like that, like a horror movie, the worst "nightmare!" It was like My car just about waiting to park to suffer a heart attack, that's the comparison i make. I'm very upset with My self, because I knew, that I should have done this before (changing the Chaín) I simple i ignore. The last december 21th I still was running great and smooth here inside streets of México city , specifically " avenues called "circuito interior " that aré avenues like, "Speedways" running like 90 miles per hour. and Now just days after My motor sounds like a yunk. I wonder, and i ask to You ?do You think If My engine could be repaired? Do You think If changing valves and pushrods ,its enough? Or the Camshaft should be changed too? Or just damaged valves and Pushrods? Or Should be all? Pistons? After Smacking with a valve? Could being still working usually?
The Head? Should be Changed? Or Could I use the Same? (I mean the "case"where Valve train Is located, because I wonder if? After a Valve being bent by piston, smacked, thrown back with speed, I wonder if the Valve doesnt make damage around?)Buying a New Camshaft, pushrods, lifters, springs, "all this parts New" can be installed" as Is" ? Or should be "Send" to the specialized garage where make parts of a engine get the perfect adjustment" Here in Mexico, We call this "rectificadora"? Its annoying that all mechanic always want to Send "everything" to rectify."parts of Head' Aré they lazy? Its a bad habit? so I wonder ? And I ask to You? Its real necessary to "rectify" a New Valve?Why Is so difficult To make "Seal" a New Valve inside a piston, If its supposedly its New? and oem designed For an specific engine? "Rectify" means make wear to metal parts to " achieve adjustment" i dont want that! If "everything" Is New? Why should being rectify? (I refer specifically camshaft, valves, lifters, springs, and pushrods ) What do You suggest? Thanks For watching
I have an 03 with 30k miles on it, should I be looking into replacing ym belt earlier, or is it likely to hold (all other things going well) until 60k?
Good question! Mazda doesn't specify an age limit for the timing belt, but they can dry-rot and fail. Conditions will make a big difference on the rubber's lifespan, but we would replace it every 10-15 years, even if you haven't reached the 60K milage yet.
60K mi. ..... Or ..... 6 Years. Whichever come first. A lot of Miata's are weekend warriors and don't pile up the mileage. I see na6's with less then 60k all the time. Point being milage can NOT be the only gauge. Belts are made of rubber like tires, and like tires they begin oxidizing or breaking down on a molecular scale, once they get popped out of the mold. NHTSA recommends replacing tires, regardless of milage, every 6-10 years. I'd say any critical rubber should also be replaced in that year range. Different variables are also a factor. Hot arid climate versus cool humid air all plays a part, but to be safe I would say to do your timing belt every 60K mi. (OR) every 6 years. Whichever comes first.
Good advice!
If it’s not tensioned right will there be a wining noise?
I have a for it Dodge Caravan, 2005 with 83K miles. I like to warm it up before I drive in the morning. The other day I started, and sat inside waiting for it to warm up, it stopped by itself. I tried to start again, it would crank but wouldn't start. Towed to the mechanic, he checked it and told me timing belt is broken. He wouldn't know if the engine is ok till he installs new timing belt and see if the van starts. Do you think the engine is damaged?
Any idea on the cost of a timing belt and water pump replacement? Ball park figures are fine.
If you purchase both items from us, it will be around $225 with free shipping in the US. Our timing belt kit also includes a new valve cover gasket, cam seals, a front main seal, thermostat neck O-ring and a CAS O-ring if applicable.
Great video.....as always. Any differences on anything you've covered for the MSM engines?
Thanks for the kind words! There are no timing belt changes/added consequences to the MSM engine.
The belt snapped on my 99 Tacoma while on the highway and made a horrible sound. Had it towed and I just installed a new timing belt kit. I lined up the cams and crank pulley before reinstalling the new belt and when I went to start the engine, it sounded the same way that when I tried to start it on the highway. So, I don't think I installed the belt incorrectly. What could be the issue that caused the belt to snap and could that issue still be present? Thanks for the time and the great videos.
We're all about Miatas here, man. Sorry, I don't know your Taco question. However, if it's an interference engine, you probably have some bent valves.
Thanks.
Is it always good idea to remove spark plugs from the engine whenever l rotate the engine for checking timing marks, this will allow me to feel, if the pison interfering with the valves?
At that time l will stop immediately rotating the engine in order to stop the potential damage.
@Certitude365 You do not need to remove the spark plugs to rotate the engine. If the pistons are interfering with the valves on your engine, it is likely that you won't be able to rotate the engine over at all. On NA/NB Miatas, the engine is non-interference which means that the pistons will not contact the valves at all.
Are the JDM VVT motors (10.5 CR) also non-interference? Thanks!
There were some high compression JDM variants that might have some interference issues, but we don't have any definitive info to share about those. Sorry.
Folks ..
A question in case someone could answer.
In case the crank gear is slightly off... Is it too hard to adjust it in position??
Is it relatively easy or need to put much force into it?,
If you mean it’s not quite at TDC when you’re trying to check cam timing, just put it in neutral and use a wrench on the crank bolt to turn the engine clockwise. If you mean it’s not at TDC when the cams are, then you have to realign the timing belt. In the latter case, it’ll never be off slightly, it’ll always be at least a full tooth.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Awesome video
Thanks!
I’m trying to set the cams on a 3.8 Mitsubishi endeavor
Good luck on setting the cams on your 3.8 Mitsubishi Endeavor.
Slipped a belt on a 90 Talon Tsi. GONER!!
Oh man! That's no good. With a Miata, all you have is a tow bill.
Had my audi a4 b7 2.0 tdi timing belt snap on me at 80mph put a new tensioner an belt on fired straight up
That's a better outcome than the 1.8 petrol engine and a broken timing belt.
I have a 2012 Doge Journey the mechanic tells me I probably will need a timing belt change I don't know anything about cars but he says it's very dangerous if belt brakes it will be very costly cause he will break the engine is thi true. Thank you if somebody can help me on this situation it's hard to fine or thrust a good mechanic.
Miata engines are non-interference, meaning if the timing belt snaps you'll still be stuck on the side of the road, but repairs won't be as costly or damaging to the motor as an interference engine would.
i had a headache.. make it simple dude
why do all these teaching or info videos always have the timimg perfect take an engine with the camshaft off and show us how you move it so it is correct show and telll stop the jadda jadda jadda
All you do is rotate the camshafts into the correct position. There are flats on the cams you can use to rotate them.
Snapping a timing belt is the epitome of arrogance
What do you mean ?