FOXSUR 12V 7A 7-Stage Smart Battery Charger unboxing and charge test on 10 year old car battery
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- Опубликовано: 2 мар 2021
- In this video I unbox and review the charge functions of a FOXSUR 12V 7A 7-Stage smart battery charger on a 10 year old car battery. How will it do?
A special shout out goes to Tony Saprano who provided the topic for this video and the charger to use. I even get to keep the charger! Thank you very much Tony.
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GreggFesto
If you unplug it from the wall -- it still works as a volt meter just by being connected to the battery.
Thanks Greg! I look forward to hanging with you and review the results
Hey Tony, I look forward to hanging out with you too. See you soon.
Work well on my batteries. Depend on CCA and SOH. Larger CCA tooks longer to repair.. Lower SOH tooks longer time to repair.. My 380 CCA tooks about 4 hrs to brought from 90% to 100 % SOH. My 720 CCA batrery tooks 32 hrs to bring 86% to 100 %SOH.
In principle need to charge full and wait for 1-2 hrs. If it still have 12. 6 volts mean you still can desulphate. If say 10v or lower means one cell already defect due to shortage or etc. if it could not maintain charge on 12.6 with high SOH means you by mistake overfill the electrolyte level.
Have one battery that i charge from SOH 47% to 100% with 300CCA. It tooks about 11 days...
Very interesting. Thank you for your feedback. I will try more cycles on my next battery and see I can obtain similar results.
Hi Gregg how are you doing it Peter I managed to to repair a 12V car battery that went dead on me one morning & so I took the battery out of the PT Cruiser & it in put the Toyota Hilux & the battery that was the Toyota Hilux Surf I put the battery on the Foxsur 12V/24V battery charger & I put it on repair mode for about 24hours & behold it works & I had it in the PT Cruiser & started the PT Cruiser no problem at all & so now it it back it the Toyota Hilux Surf 3.4v6 & it kicks it over no problem at all these Foxsur 12V /24V 7stage Foxsur battery chargers are great Kind Regards Peter Morton & you have a Lovely Nice Day or A Lovely Nice Good Night Gregg
Awesome news Peter. Thanks for sharing your results with us. Much appreciated.
Well I finally got around to taking the battery out of my 2005 Skoda Octavia estate to charge it.... it had 62% SOH, 8% charge, 10.5 ohms resistance, 11.92 volts and 250 CCA. but it still started the car OK !
It is a 61AH battery with (supposedly) 540 CCA. Those numbers are better than I first thought - I tested the battery with the tester set on AGM when it shoulda been regular flooded.....
Due to time constraints I only gave it a 'normal charge' then refitted it as I had to use the car and it then tested out as 84% SOH, 98% SOC, resistance went down to 6.5 ohms , volts to 12.7 and CCA went up to 454 which I thought was OK. I gave it another charge before I refitted it but it didn't change anything numbers-wise.
I then fitted it to the car and used it a bit but found time to give it the 16 hour 'repair charge' which didn't do anything more to things - the numbers are virtually the same. The car starts more immediately now and the central locking seems more positive but the car is 17 years old and wiring connections are a bit dodgy !
The battery is dated 46th week of 2015 so it's six years old and I can't remember when I bought and fitted it but the car has only done 1900 miles in the last three years so it had good reason to be flat what with the alarm/immobiliser on it constantly draining the battery !
I have bought one of these solar panel things to help it along but it is only a five watt thing. Cost of charger was £11.31, the tester/meter was £21 and the solar panel thing was £12.95, so £45 all in including shipping which I think is about $60 so it's not too bad really as I have improved three bike batteries (one was unservicable) and the car one which seemed in a worse stae than the one it replaced five or six years ago..... can't remeber what happened to that one.....
At least I think the bike batteries are better, I still have this darn frame on my lower leg so I can't get to that bike to try the 'unservicable' battery on it, it has a lithium one on it that is holding a charge OK - I can get to the maintenance charger lead to test it ..... and the switchgear on the handlebars got trashed when I fell off the thing and busted my leg....... I have got some new switch gear somewhere.......
The frame should have been removed from my leg two weeks ago but our wonderful National Health Service is 'running late' due to this virus situation.... at least it is free at point of treatment so maybe I shouldn't kick up too much of a rumpus !
Take care y'all.....
Thakery, Sorry to hear you still dealing with the leg issues. Hope you will be back on the bike and in the wind soon. I used the charger again this past weekend on a mower battery. Brought it back to 70% of original specs. Impressive. Thanks for commenting. Take care.
Hi Gregg I have done a test with the DIGITECH TECHNICIAN ECONOMY TRUE RMS AUTORANGE CAT NO QM1321 MULTIMETER TESTER & did a reading on MECHPRO Jumpstater 12volt 1200 Peak Amps Electric charger & the reading voltage that I off this charger was 20.96 Volts & on the Foxsur 12V/24V 7 stage battery charger I got a reading 20.4 Volts which is pretty Dam close between the two & on the New Multimeter Tester it got special Function & you turn the switch NCV & can pick up mains wires behind the walls & switches & can track all main power wires behind the walls as it has a special sensor on top of the Multimeter Tester & it beeps really loud plus it has 1big led light Flashing which works really well & it's a Excellent Feature when when you want to know where the main wires are behind the walls & on the Ohms you have the loud sound when having the 2 probes touch together or no sound at all
& the only thing I was worried about when you go on Ohms it does this 000.1 & so I rang back at Jaycar Electronics Store & spoke to Mark who sold me the Multimeter Tester & I told Mark when you go on Ohms & touch the probe's together it doesn't go to full 0000 & goes to 000.1 & Mark said that's fine it picks up the resistance Mark said if you look at the of the box it got the Accuracy which is a petty accurate Multimeter Tester & so we sell a lot of these DIGITECH Technician Economy True RMS Autorange CAT NO QM1321 Multimeter Testers other than that It's an Amazing Multimeter & it's way by far better than the ANCO AM-832 Muiltimeter Tester & BLOWS IT AWAY BIG TIME & Gregg you sent me a message saying that you looked at the Specifications on thIs DIGITECH TECHNICIAN ECONOMY TRUE RMS AUTORANGE CAT NO QM1321 MULTIMETER TESTER & Gregg you say the Price is AWESOME & the Specs are Great & Gregg you like the Warranty as well & I will give you the measurements on this DIGITECH Technician Economy True RMS Autorange CAT NO QM1321 Multimeter Tester is 190mm long the width is at highest point 87 mm & lowest point width is 78mm & the depth is 52mm deepest point for as it has 2 probe holders that push into the rubber mounts because it has it's own stand that pulls out from the bottom & shollowest point is 37mm remember this it's on rubber Casing & around the Multimeter Tester & has plenty of protection when dropped by accident & has fair size push buttons 7 all up on this Multimeter Tester as well these are the buttons
FUNC REL MIN/MAX
RANGE Hz/% HOLD
RED BUTTON FOR
BACK LIGHT
Hey Gregg you have Wonderful Lovely Beautiful Day or A Wonderful Lovely Beautiful Good Night Gregg
Kind Regards Peter PS I Think The Right
Choice In Buying This DIGITECH Technician Economy True RMS Autorange CAT NO QM1321 Multimeter Tester & It Will See Me Throughout The Years & Beauty Of It I Have
A LIFETIME GUARANTEE WARRANTY &
& IT'S THE BEST MULTIMETER I HAVE
OWNED SO FAR & I WILL KEEP IN TOUCH
Gregg & see how this Multimeter Tester
Performs & so far I'm really
PLEASED OF WHAT IT
CAN DO GREGG
Peter, I am glad you found that meter. Thanks for writing in. Have a great day. Gregg
I have just bought the same charger (I think) and after reading the instructions I connected it up and fit the plug in the wall. On hitting the switch to turn the mains on I got the 'assessment' thing in the window and the light was on moto - it is a 12 AH battery from my Harley which is meant to be 200 CCA but was ony showing 165 on a load tester.It would charge on an 'ordinary' charger and hold 13.12 volts but not turn the engine long enough to fire the bike up. I switched it to pulse repair mode at 13.5 to 13.7 volts,and 8 hrs later it is still charging on pulse and a voltmeter shows the pulse voltage varies between 15.6 and 15.8.
I think that is maybe on very low current though as the battery is not getting warm , never mind hot.
I will amend this comment when it is finished the 'repair' charge - assuming it doen't explode and burn the house down !
Hey Thackery, Thank you for watching and taking time to comment. I look forward to your end results. I feel that if you can do the cycles without the battery getting hot that you will have a better result. If you are not getting any heat then I suspect your battery is going to turn out very well. Please do reply back and let us know how it goes.
@@GreggFesto Well I checked the voltage and charging state at 12.5 hours into the 16 hour cycle and it was still pulsing - this time at 15.6 to 15.8 volts. Went back to bed and rose at about 2 hours after the 16 hour point to see that 'END' was showing and the voltage when check with a multimeter was 13.55 volts. It is dropping a little so I will check it again after 24 hours at rest - the battery is out of the bike.
The battery showed 13.4 volts after a 24 trickle charge, then 24 hours resting when it was new so maybe it is 'repaired'. I can't try it on the bike at the moment as I have a broken leg and it'd be difficult ! I do have another two batteries for a Harley Dyna that I am treating to repairs as well - we'll see how things go !
The fact that the battery did not even get warm may be indicative of the level of sulphation - like if it is heavily sulphated then the 'repair' mode will cause heat as a 'by-product' of the chenical reaction that is dissolving the sulphate crystals on the plates. I know that if batteries get hot on charging/discharging that the plate will distort and cause a short-circuit situation in the cel(s) and that will make the battery useless. I am no expert though, just guessing !
Thackery, I agree with you on the heat and distortion of plates. Are there any experts or battery scientists out there who can let Thackery and I know if this is correct?
I hope you will continue to stay in touch and let us know how these batteries do when you get them reinstalled in your steel horse. Rock On Thackery!
@@GreggFesto I am not sure the battery has been 'restored' as the voltage after a 24 hour rest is less than one tenth of a volt to what it was before. I am awaiting delivery of one of those digital battery test meters to allow me to test the available cranking amp capacity - I only borrowed the old type tester when I found the state of the battery before using the 'repair' charger.... time will tell but I am not expecting miracles. The battery on that bike - a 2006model XL1200R - is rather small physically due to the confines of it's location and the CCA is hardly enough and so consequently they are known to 'wear out' quickly. I bought it 3 years ago and they normally only last two years - add to that the fact that twice I mistakenly left the lights turned on until the battery was totally flat..... it was after that that the problems really started.
It was a cheap battery with 200CCA and next time I will buy a bigger CCA one with 270 .
Update 24/02 : Well my new digital battery tester has shoed up and it shows me that things may well have changed with the Sportster battery. I had tested the Dyna battery which showed 340CCA on an older 'traditional ' load tester which is where it should be and after a few 'repair charges' it now shows 367 CCA but that is with the new digital tester. That battery has had some use and is about 18 months old.
The Sportster battery has had a few charges and (on the older tester) showed 165 CCA before charging, it now shows 221 CCA..... should be intersting to get it on the bike and try.... that may happen in a month or so as my orthopedic surgeon has said my broken leg is healing good and he will remove the Llizarov frame in the next few weeks. I'll keep you appraied on things.
Oh, I did get the Sportster battery to hold a few more volts - it now has 13.27 V after a 24 hour rest when it was 13.12 - this is after several 'normal' charges (i.e. not repair charges) where the charger has a period of desulping before completing the charge - things looking good..... the Dyna battery now holds at 13.38 volts (it was 13.2 V) after several normal charges with the desulph bit .....
i check my today voltage on charger is 17V on lcd 13.8V when charging going up to 20V !!! i try pulse rocovery on 1year old baterry and nothing even after 12hours still charging voltage on battery 13.8V something is wrong with this charger :/
Well I got the other battery off my Dyna - it had been on a motorcycle tender charger for four months - and my tester showed that while the SOC was 96%, the SOH was 82%. The battery is a Gel type 12v 20 AH and 340 (EN) cca that was showing just 250 cca. I charged it on the repair mode for about 8 or 9 hours in my kitchen but noticed it was getting the battery a bit warm - not hot but warm so I stopped it.
Next day without further charging the battery has 96% SOH, 98% SOC and shows 329 CCA available so I am just leaving it alone. Gonna do my car battery as soon as I can carry it in the house - it shows 12.1 volts, SOH 80% and SOC 0%..... it is a 55 AH battery with 540 CCA and is showing 250 CCA available.... but it starts the car straight up with no problems, car is a 2005 Skoda Octavia VRS wagon with a 1.8 turbo petrol engine with 5 valves per cylinder - quite a rare car over here in England. I'll let you know how I get on with charging it with this great little charger.
Sounds like it worked great on that one. Thackery. I had a cool experience this past weekend with my charger. Neighbor brought me a 800CA battery from a tractor and I ran the repair overnight. Did not get warm at all. Said the battery was full on charger. I went ahead and ran the regular charge cycle and it started by drawing 4A then went down to 0.8A within minutes and read full. When I checked it with the load meter it read only 2% health 100% charge and 123CCA. I ran charge cycle again overnight with results of 0% health 98% charge and 0CCA. This is for a sure dead battery. The charger and meter told me everything I needed to know.
@@GreggFesto H'mmmm.... I am at this very moment running the pulse repair cycle on that battery after using my test meter to ascertain it's current (excuse the pun ! ) state. It had gone down 1% in SOH, remained at 98% SOC and the available CCA had decreased by a couple of amps to 329 - it is a 340CCA battery - so I thought that I'd run the repair cycle and keep n eye (or a hand) on it regarding it getting warm !
I surmise that the battery, being a motorcycle one of 20 AH is maybe a little small for the charger and that is why it started to get warm. We'll see. I think maybe the SOH reading on my meter is showing the initial state of charge as the instructions tell the operator to turn on the light for ten seconds to remove the 'surface charge' and as all my batteries are off-vehicle then it's hard to do that.
I will know more when I can risk charging the car battery after I have had a little day surgery to remove the Llizarov frame from my leg - I don't want to risk the car's battery at the moment as I am able to drive it a little and can therefore save on cab fares - I live alone you see. Later.
P.S. the regular charge thing also seemed to 'discharge' the state of health and cranking amps on my batteries as well - maybe the 'surface charge' is affecting the actual charging current the charger supplies which then results in the supposed drop in health and available CCA's that I have seen after using the regular charge facility.... is that what you were aluding to ? These batteries are not an exact science it seems - maybe it'd be easier if we could test the electrolite strength with a hydrometer.
@@GreggFesto Try running the repair cycle again - measure the battery's staus with your tester and make a note of the readings. run the repair cycle and then leave the battery for twelve hours. Then test it and compare readings.... DO NOT USE THE REGULAR CHARGE CYCLE but maybe try the repair charge again and do the testing again after a twelve hour wait from when the repair cycle ends.....
I am only on my second repair cycle - I cut the first one short as the battery was getting warm. The tester's readings were good and I then used a regular charge which seemed to weaken the battery..... so I left it 24 hours and am now trying to give it the full repair. As the battery works on a chemical reaction then maybe it cannot be 'forced too much' at once and the amount of charges will do the job better than one big long charge...... worth a try on an otherwise 'dead' battery maybe ?
I do suggest NOT to use the 'regular charge' cycle at all while you are trying to recover the battery from dead !
I gave that battery back to neighbor already. Next one that I have that is reading dead I will run the repair cycles without running separate charge cycle in between and see if this does improve my results. Good luck with your leg.
@@GreggFesto Well I got my older 12v 20 ah battery up to 100% health , 98% charge and put that on a trickle charger for eight hours. It ended up with 97% health,98% charge and less CCA and a higher internal resistance..... that is what makes me say what I said. Oh, that is the battery that heats up a bit and the case is slightly 'blown' but it was like that before testing/repairs started.
It's all very well getting it to 100% SOH etc etc but I wonder what putting it on the bike will do to it when it gets a charge when using the bike !
The good bit is that as it was starting and running the bike with no problem at 88% SOH and just 250 CCA, I should be able to test things out OK when it's actually in use - bench testing is not 'real world' is it ?
As for that tractor battery, people are reporting having to use the repair cycle three or four times without other charges in between, and with 24 hour rests between repair cycles - I guess that all batteries don't act the same though as it depends on how they have been used/treated.
Smells like China. 🤣🤣🤣
Best statement ever.
I appreciate you watching and commenting. It means ALLOT to me. Thank You.
yes you can know them from the smell.. 😂👍
Check out my meter review video with Tony Saprano when you get a chance. We had a quick laugh and discussion about the PVC smell. It was funny.
You didn't say if the battery charger worked on your battery... Were you charging the battery pluging it? Or can actually precharge it as I thought and bring it to my car to charge it unplugged?
It did improve the battery some but did not bring it back to health enough to use. Check out the results on this video where we check that battery with various meters. The results are all displayed around 7:40 in video. ruclips.net/video/CHgyAxF0oMM/видео.html thank you very much for watching and commenting.
This charger must be plugged into wall in order to charge or repair.
@@GreggFesto Thank you I'll check it out
"During charging if AC power gone and come back.. Do we need to restart the charger or it start automatically and continue the charging.."
When I unplug it during charging and then plug it back in, it starts the charging cycle again from the DES phase. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@GreggFesto I have a plan to keep battery charging continuously. So after full charge, charger turnoff automatically ok, but if the battery use at the same time of charging and voltage drop to 11v... Would the charger restarts automatically or it starts only after the battery voltage reached 8v.. 😐
I am not sure, I have not used the charger in this manner before. If you find out, please reply to this video and let us all know what is the result.
The mine says "FUL" after the Desulfation Mode... And it doesnt charge anything my battery.
Maybe it was because is totally dead?
I have a meter that tests the battery also. There is another video I did on those. I suggest you get one as it will tell you about your battery health. I noticed that the charger will say "FUL" charge and when I check with the meter it will say that the charge is near full percentage but the capacity is very low. So the voltage is present but there is just no current to provide real power for anything to run.
Adolfo, Thank you for taking the time to watch my video and write a comment. Thank you very much for subscribing as well. People like you are what I need to grow this channel and I really appreciate you.
Smells like CHINA WUTTFF?😂 ACCURAYTTTT
LOL, YUP. Thanks for commenting @SYNDICATE
Hi Gregg I have sent previous message saying Larry doesn't have his D Type Jaguar replica on Utube & have spoken with Larry & doesn't mind sending you photos of D Type Jaguar replica & I hope you do receive the previous message that I have sent to you Gregg & Larry has previously brought a 2009 XKR & its Supercharged to & Larry has not long brought XKR Jaguar & that to is a very very nice car to & I also mentioned in previous message & if you can message me your Email address & I will take some photos of both cars to you Gregg & I try to send them to you Gregg on my mobile phone & I have messaged in your reply if I can't send you Gregg the photos of the 2 cars Larry will send the photos of the 2 cars on computer by the help of Alex as he is Larry's friend as well & my Alex is my friend as well Alex helped Larry change over the motors over in on the D Type Jaguar replica & Alex will Larry to help Larry to send the photos of Larry's 2 cars on Larry's computer & soon as I receive your Email address Gregg I do my best to send them on my mobile phone first & hopefully I can send the photos to you Gregg Kind Regards Peter PS & I'm Wishing You All The Very Best Gregg
Hey Peter, I have sent my email address. I think you should try posting some of the pics and video to RUclips. There are allot of Jaguar enthusiasts here on RUclips that might enjoy checking those cars out.