Australian Made Toyota Aurion has the same engine mounts (same engine) I used the same prcoedure shown in the video to change all my engine mounts, except that you dont have remove the radiator in the Aurion. Thank you, you earned a sub.
Amazing. How long did this take? I lost weight just from watching. Sheesh. I have a greater understanding as to why engine work is so freaking expensive. Great work sir!
Excellent video, I've changed mounts in other vehicles, but was a little apprehensive in doing my 08 es350, but after seeing this I know i can handle it. Thank you brother!!
He always leaves at least 1 of the mounts connected to the engine. 2:50 Losen Front mount 3:19 Removes Top left Top Moving Control Rod 3:43 Passenger Side 5:33 Driver Side 7:32 Front Mount 9:03 Puts in bolts for Top Moving Control Rod 9:31 Go back and tighten up all bolts on the mounts and put it all back together again. Good luck!
Thank you for the video. I need to replace mine in my car and I've been looking at the Anchor brand. Can you tell us how are they holding up in comparison to the OEM? Thank you
Great video, really helped in prepping me for the job. My Chilton's manual for the car (07-12 Toyota Camry, Avalon and Lexus ES350) only said to remove the top bolts from each mount prior to lifting the engine.
Hardly Moving making it look easy once again! I just hope the motor mount that has to be twisted goes as smooth for me and injury free... Thanks again.
Hi great video I'm about to replace the Front and Diver Side trans. mount only as the other two are fresh. My question is do in need to unbolt or loosen the Top dog mount and the Passenger side to replace them? thanks!
This is an excellent video! I think I’ll give this a try. Question for you: I have a 2008 Lexus RX350 and when I gently accelerate and maintain my speed, I hear a chirping/squeaking noise from the engine bay/dashboard. But when I put it in neutral and step on the gas pedal in the same manner, I don’t hear and chirping squeaking. Would you say the engine and tranny mounts can cause the noise?
Thanks! Chirping/squeaking noise is cause by something rotating that's worn out. Could be an accessory belt, belt tensioner or idler pulley or anything that the belt rotates (i.e. power steering pump, ac compressor and alternator).
@@hardlymovingpro that’s what I figured too but the serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, radiator and thermostat were replaced a month ago. Only other thing I haven’t looked into is any exhaust leak.
Great video, thank you! You're correct, it took about 2 hours on the dot.. Car was an 07' ES 350. Front mount has no vacuum lines but does have 2 electrical plugs and a ground that was already cut. One tip, be smart unlike me... watch when you're removed the fans.. the upper radiator tube is brittle and made of fiberglass and breaks easily 😅
You may want to consider replacing the radiator if the tube / hose port was brittle. It's plastic that with age and constant heat cycles begins to degrade. Look for hair line cranks in the plastic. That's a sign the radiator is on its last legs.
Do you think it would have been possible to replace the front mount by simply jacking up the engine a bit, and removing the mount from below? I'm tempted to replace my front mount but too lazy to disassemble the front end until next spring/summer.
I'm learning how to do some of these repairs on my 2008 rx400h. It looks like I will need to remove the radiator fans, but most of the hoses look like they're not in the way so it will not be too complicated. When you drain some coolant out of the system like this do you need to do anything other than pour it back into the radiator? Should you use new fluid so you don't get dust or debris in the radiator? Do you have any videos/resources about how to reset the coolant system if there are more steps required?
I'm assuming to attempting to replace the radiator? If so, watch this video. The concept is the same and should address all your questions: ruclips.net/video/UVvCMDj_AN4/видео.html
@@hardlymovingpro I'm replacing the engine mounts. I haven't started yet but I'm trying to understand how much I have to deal with the radiator when removing the fan assembly to get to the front mount. The overflow tank is attached to the fan assembly so I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to keep coolant from coming out of the rest of the system when I remove that. Please forgive my ignorance if it's a fairly simple process as I'm dealing with the radiator for the first time like this.
@@hardlymovingpro my car shake/vibrate so bad at any stoplight shake more aggressively when AC is on not matter if I put on nutural still vibrate I heard it it’s engine mount would reduce the vibrate or put on N ,, any idea what it could be , I changed spark plugs like 2 days ago thanks
Hello, after taking off the upper coolant hose is there air introduced into the system? Do u need to “burp” the system or just connect the hose and go?
Thank you for quick reply. I had an hour drive to family event and noticed those symptoms. I may need to do this. Merry Christmas and God bless you and your loved ones.
Do I need to loosen the front mount to take out the passenger side lower engine mount? My front mount is still good but the passenger side is bad and the less hassle for me to replace it the better
Yes. The top bolt for the front mount should be removed. Otherwise you won't be able to tilt the engine enough to remove the side mount. Also, don't forget to remove the top torque rod.
Hi , Notice you did not remove the axles for this job. With the 04-06 Siennas with the 3mz-fe engines , is it necessary to remove the axles to aid in lifting the engine to remove the mounts?
I actually meant just the axle nuts. I saw one poster doing this as he claims a little more engine movement is possible. I just replaced all the three lower mounts and did not remove the axle nuts at all. I installed oem mounts and wished that the bolts were removeable like the aftermarket ones. It wasn't a problem though. One thing I did like , among other things, is that the top of the bolts except the drivers side , were tapered for better insertion into the mounting hole on the respective brackets. To aid this though I wedged couple strips of wood ( paint stir stck) between the frame and bottom of the flange for better alignment. This was my first time doing engine mounts on my Sienna. Bottom nuts are torqued to 35 ft lbs and the uppers at 59 call it 60 ft/lbs. Regards
Fantastic video. But to all you Toyota and Lexus owners, I can’t stress this enough - use OEM engine mounts. They are more expensive but if you watch a few RUclips videos from Toyota master mechanics like car care nut, you will see that aftermarket engine mounts are no no.
I have a lexus es330 2004, which start to vibrate when I go above 40 miles/hour; I did tire balance and alignment, but it still the same issue (the whole car vibrate/shake) do you think this will solve the problem?
What do you think of those Anchor mounts? Inferior results compared to new OEM? Any premature failures known from the customers over time? The OEM mounts seem outrageously expensive on my 99 ES300. I don't think they are goners yet, even at 204k because of how conservatively I drive and accelerate, but I think they must have some wear. The strut torque mount only has a small-ish crack in it. No idea on the rest!
hey man im currently doing all my engine mounts and ive gotten all of them out except the transmission mount. the bolt underneath one of its studs is seized on and is turning the stud with it. im using only hand tools, and i think my only bet is to get a propane torch and heat it up. if i damage the nut too much, is it just a generic nut ill need?
@@hardlymovingpro went to brafasco and was able to find the proper nut, then went and cut out the mount and replaced it with the new one. all thanks to your video, youre a legend.
@@hardlymovingpro hey boss, so as you know i changed all the mounts and everything is going good but im hearing a vibration now at idle thats relative to rpm. when it drops to around 800-700 rpm you can really hear it, about 1000rpm you dont hear it. i took avideo of it and ill upload it and tag you, maybe you can lend your expertise once more! Edit: this is the link ruclips.net/video/5_qkoaJKauI/видео.html
Another great video...however, doing this on a 190K mile V6 Camry I had to use the 2ft. breaker - battery impact got about 1/3 the way down then just expanded the stud from heat and stalled (17mm in-frame studs). I sprayed PB liberally but the problem is you can't get a wire wheel or hand brush in the frame rail openings to clean the rust off...so, the 17mm nut is effectively "cleaning" the threads on the studs as you go.. Its a B...an air impact would most likely zip them off but I am a jack stand DIY'er. My question is: can I re-use the 17mm stud nuts on a new set of OEM mounts I am ready to install? Toyota dealer doesn't stock them and added that they re-use them regardless. I watched all your 2GR-FE videos and they are great! Thanks
Before mounting on the new mounts, grease the studs and see how easy the 17mm nuts spin on. Also, if you have a metric tap and die set, you can clean up the nut's threads.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you. Going to the parts store to match up new ones. Also, I was not able to get the new top studs off the new OEM mounts prior to install - is there a trick? I had to go up pretty far with the floor jack to get them in, hope I didn't compress one too hard...great video's, great mechanic, thanks!
I’m just taking the engine out of my rx330. Do I have to unbolt the mounts from the bottom or if I just unbolt the points that are attached to the powertrain will the engine and transaxle be free?
@@hardlymovingpro already popped the cv’s out. I have to cut the rusted studs / nuts on the Y split for cat bank 1 / the back header. I’m pulling it out through the top because I don’t have any way to safely drop it down. I’m thinking I should be able to pull it out with the back header and if not I can at least get some more space with the hoist to work on the back header/ cat bank 1 exhaust manifold, from the top side. I just have zero room to get enough torque to remove it. Also the heat shield nuts are rusted so I need to cut it off or hammer an extractor on.
@@hardlymovingpro one more thing. I was told I don’t need to remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear since I’m hoisting it out the top. Is this correct? I thought I had to because it’s listed step in the Haynes manual. I tried getting it out with a 3.5# mini sledge and 30” pry bar but was ineffective. So I’m hoping I don’t need to get an air hammer and can leave that.
Does the dogbone strut mount need a torque wrench or can it be hand tightened? Also do you need to jack the engine up to do just that one? Cause I’ve seen people do it without the jack, but want to know what you think. Let me know, thanks!!
Have a 2008 Lexus ES350. Transmission mount has pin hole 180* different from the mount ordered. Is there a way to rotate the mount pin to align? My pin hole is pretty well facing out not in like your video shows. TY
I experience a jerk/vibration when I shift the gear to reverse, I think this video should help fix it or what do you think. I also noticed my infotainment system restarts sometimes when I rev to 3000 / 4000 rpm while on idle. The car is es 350 07, pls your reply will b appreciated and I just subscribed.
I have a 2017 Sienna doing the same thing (big lurch P to R), jerking in low gears. The engine physically moves when shifting. I replaced all 4 mounts, still moves. Can't figure out why.
I keep hearing a pop on the right side of my es350 after talking off from a stop. All control arms are ok. I assume it would be the right side mount? Are these all the mounts? Is there no rear mount‽
I'm happy you said that. I thought there was only one bad mount on my 2005 Avalon, but you just reassured me that it is best to change all of them at the same time. Thanks....love your video
Hello, I have a low bass sound and vibration at idle in gear. Goes away in neutral. I just replaced the water pump and dog bone mount. Wondering if I tore the drivers side mount when lifting the engine to do the water pump. Does this sound like it could be the cause? Is there any way to test or isolate this mount? The minor noise and vibration is driving me mad.
When you place it in gear, that drops the idle speed from neutral due to the load on the engine. Just a guess, but could be transmission related or the engine needs a tune up (new plugs, air filter, throttle body cleaning or perhaps a loose or leaking vacuum hose).
It's a bearing component. Either wheel bearing or CV axles. Swerve left to right at speeds over 40 mph and see which side increases in noise; swerve left places tension on the right bearing and visa versa. If no difference, could be the center bearing of your right split cv axle.
Question for Hardly Moving Productions... I've loosened my front motor mount before to perform a different part of maintenance on my 08 Avalon and I don't remember having to remove the radiator fan. I don't have a perfect memory, so if I'm wrong I'm wrong. That being said, 1) do you think it's absolutely necessary to remove that fan or could this possibly be done without doing that maybe loosen the nuts, etc. with a long extension from the top and then somehow removing it down below the car??? Just asking if you think that might be possible or not. Also, I've got plenty of super long long nose pliers to try to remove and reattach all the things that you did to the front mount... But I'm not sure if that would be able to be achieved gently enough with extra long needle nose pliers. 2) What's your opinion?
Hey I replaced the upper engine mount (also known as a wishbone mount) and about 4 months later it cracked again. Would it be safe to assume this is a sign of bad lower engine mounts ?
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah.. I started tonight... Right out of the gate. I fight to get the front mount out. Then realize. They gave me the wrong part. As it has no vacuum port on it.. No more customers bring me the parts. As they always seem to never get the right ones for the year model they have. Now I got to go buy the right ones. And then charge them for it....
Question, 2008 Lexus ES350. My pin hole on transmission mount is facing to the outside . Can you rotate the mount appropriately 90* so it will line up. The one I ordered has pin hole to the inside?
Hey I was changing the front motor mount and I accidentally broke off the top bolt. And I tried a few stores to look for it and I can’t seem to find any that fit. Any suggestions? HELP!!!
Could also be worn out CV axle bearings or bent axle shaft if under no load (coasting) the vibration disappears. Seen it happen a lot of Toyota / Lexus V6 FWD sedans, right passenger side.
I know one person comment about the Anchor brand. What are your thoughts? I called another part store that deal with China brand and japanese brand mainly. I was curious about the China brand he selling call DEA. I would pay more for dealership but I think those be out of my price range(as you can tell I haven't call them yet probably Tuesday) I read everywhere people get mixed result with the Anchor brand. I am planning on buying a sets tomorrow and get it going. Please reply at your convenience.
What typa car is this mounts are i have 09 camry v6 3.5 will that looks the same i need to change my rear engine mounth but i dont know location where its sitting is it on the side or behing the engine
I have a very lowered 08 is250, recently scraped pretty bad and damaged two brake lines on pass rear side (had a leak) just got to fixing that hoping it would fix my issues.. i did some research as i was experiencing the car jerking violently when going from park to drive, after the bad scrape (also the dash lights for the gears are not turning on) it will show it going into sport for a second but goes away right after. Cant shift up or down in sport either.. trans seems to be shifting fine while driving just the jerk when going from P to D, i have noticed the trans mount on the right side was a little off compared to dr side but thought nothing rly of it until i did more research finding out that it may be the trans mount thats causing the jerk from P to D, but also wondering why my dash lights for the gears wont turn on (p/r/n/d/sport) Is this normal to happen when having damaged trans mount? Im hoping i havent damaged the trans itself or driveshaft or anything like that. If you have any input id really appreciate it!
Also after doing the brake line repair i have planks under rear wheels to lift the car up so i can fit my jack under the skirts, when i put it into drive (the violent jerk happened) and it kicked out the pass side plank (only pass side) a good 5/10 feet from under the pass rear wheel.. im sure this is proof that theres an issue on that side but would faulty trans mounts cause this or something else ? (driveshaft/diff issue?)
I would highly recommend you find yourself a transmission repair shop that can at least give you a free repair estimate. Compare what they said is wrong with another shop and see if they reached the same conclusion.
Man, you look and sound like you know exactly what you're doing lol. Thank you!!! I can't wait until the day you do a timing belt on the Lexus V8 engine.
Can you tell me where u got all 4 mounts from I have a 2008 es350 but I can only find the 3 mounts the one in the front by the radiator I cant find only one I can find is from the dealer but I can't afford 250 bucks for the 1 mount and how is the anchor brand with mounts I've herd to stay away from them that they are trash but you can't believe everything u here did this brand hold up fine and last awhile
There are three mounts: front, left and right. The top is not a mount but rather a torque rod to prevent the engine from tilting forward during load or acceleration.
@@hardlymovingpro In your defense I have been changing the lower arm bushes on an RX400h today so its very fresh. Only difference between the two is you can't jack the engine up high enough in the 400h to make removing the engine mounts easy, and i'm in the UK so everything has about 100x more rust.
I’m getting heavy vibration from the front end of the car when accelerating past 40. The vibration isn’t in the steering wheel. Only the front end. The dog bone needs to be replaced bcuz there is absolutely no rubber on the inside. It’s driving me crazy , I had done the brakes and rotors, thought maybe I had a stuck caliper but they were fine. Please help 😢
We need video how to replace front engine mount support for Aurion 2011, its different front Toyota Camry, none a single video in RUclips you may be the first one if you do it.
Do more Honda Civics on your early videos. All parts, replacements and fixes.. Specially the 2001-2005 variants which is lowly covered online. You'll have a subscriber and views boost, trust me you'll be million subs in 6 months.
I’m not gonna lie you made it look so easy that’s incredible
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro ofg guy f hi good cf
Hey man, I’m bout to have a kid and you just saved me thousand in labor today. I really appreciate you putting the video out.
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for posting so many videos. I'm on week 6 of my 2-week restoration project so I appreciate your thoroughness.
Glad you found the videos helpful!
Australian Made Toyota Aurion has the same engine mounts (same engine) I used the same prcoedure shown in the video to change all my engine mounts, except that you dont have remove the radiator in the Aurion. Thank you, you earned a sub.
Glad it worked out for you and thanks for sharing!
Glad I found this comment. I’ll be having a crack at this job on my 06 Toyota Aurion also in the coming weeks. Good to know what I’m in for!
This is great stuff, keep up the tutorials, you're helping more people than you know!
Thanks! Will do!
I love watching this guy work. Very efficient...great mechanic.
Thanks!
I agree. Without this guy’s expertly made videos I don’t think I would have had the confidence or insight to attempt an engine swap.
Amazing. How long did this take? I lost weight just from watching. Sheesh. I have a greater understanding as to why engine work is so freaking expensive. Great work sir!
Thanks! Around 2 hours with the right tools.
Excellent video, I've changed mounts in other vehicles, but was a little apprehensive in doing my 08 es350, but after seeing this I know i can handle it. Thank you brother!!
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much for the video! The Anchor mounts worked fine for me too.
That's great to hear!
He always leaves at least 1 of the mounts connected to the engine.
2:50 Losen Front mount
3:19 Removes Top left Top Moving Control Rod
3:43 Passenger Side
5:33 Driver Side
7:32 Front Mount
9:03 Puts in bolts for Top Moving Control Rod
9:31 Go back and tighten up all bolts on the mounts and put it all back together again.
Good luck!
I also suggest having some good knee pads, as you are often down on 1-2 knees when doing this.
For the next time, I need to do this in +5 years: parts.olathetoyota
12372-0P010
12360-0P030
12362-0P051
12363-0P012
Thank you for the video. I need to replace mine in my car and I've been looking at the Anchor brand. Can you tell us how are they holding up in comparison to the OEM? Thank you
Anchor is one of the better aftermarket brands out there.
Best motor mount replacement video replacement.. thank you for sharing your skills to us! :)
Glad it helped!
Great video, really helped in prepping me for the job. My Chilton's manual for the car (07-12 Toyota Camry, Avalon and Lexus ES350) only said to remove the top bolts from each mount prior to lifting the engine.
Whatever works!
Hardly Moving making it look easy once again! I just hope the motor mount that has to be twisted goes as smooth for me and injury free... Thanks again.
You bet! And yes, the motor does move around when replacing these mounts; but you can shift it around.
Awesome Video, thank you! My son's 05' ES 330 needs all replaced. I plan to use this vid as my 'teacher' to do his. Thanks again!
You're welcome and good luck!
Hi great video I'm about to replace the Front and Diver Side trans. mount only as the other two are fresh. My question is do in need to unbolt or loosen the Top dog mount and the Passenger side to replace them? thanks!
Yes...to tilt up the transmission.
Very well done sir! Thank you for spending the time to make this video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very interesting, Clear and clean Explanation.
Glad you liked it!
This is an excellent video! I think I’ll give this a try. Question for you: I have a 2008 Lexus RX350 and when I gently accelerate and maintain my speed, I hear a chirping/squeaking noise from the engine bay/dashboard. But when I put it in neutral and step on the gas pedal in the same manner, I don’t hear and chirping squeaking. Would you say the engine and tranny mounts can cause the noise?
Thanks! Chirping/squeaking noise is cause by something rotating that's worn out. Could be an accessory belt, belt tensioner or idler pulley or anything that the belt rotates (i.e. power steering pump, ac compressor and alternator).
@@hardlymovingpro that’s what I figured too but the serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, radiator and thermostat were replaced a month ago. Only other thing I haven’t looked into is any exhaust leak.
@@hardlymovingpro my mech replaced the front and rear engine mounts and the tranny mount (all OEM) yesterday. Got rid of the squeaking
thanks for the vid! love having someone confirm suspicion and guide me along the way
You bet!
Well done! I’ll be using this video when I change my mounts
Thanks!
Great video. All in under 12 minutes so it should take me 12 days.
Thanks! Took me around 2.5 hours. Give yourself maybe 5.
Great video, thank you!
You're correct, it took about 2 hours on the dot..
Car was an 07' ES 350. Front mount has no vacuum lines but does have 2 electrical plugs and a ground that was already cut.
One tip, be smart unlike me... watch when you're removed the fans.. the upper radiator tube is brittle and made of fiberglass and breaks easily 😅
You may want to consider replacing the radiator if the tube / hose port was brittle. It's plastic that with age and constant heat cycles begins to degrade. Look for hair line cranks in the plastic. That's a sign the radiator is on its last legs.
Great video as usual. What other good brands to you recommend from your experience
Thanks! Beck Arnley, DEA, Westar, SKP, FVP
Do you think it would have been possible to replace the front mount by simply jacking up the engine a bit, and removing the mount from below? I'm tempted to replace my front mount but too lazy to disassemble the front end until next spring/summer.
No need to jack up the engine. Remove the top bolt, then the upper mount bracket that the bolt goes through. That would be two bolts and one nut.
I'm learning how to do some of these repairs on my 2008 rx400h. It looks like I will need to remove the radiator fans, but most of the hoses look like they're not in the way so it will not be too complicated. When you drain some coolant out of the system like this do you need to do anything other than pour it back into the radiator? Should you use new fluid so you don't get dust or debris in the radiator? Do you have any videos/resources about how to reset the coolant system if there are more steps required?
I'm assuming to attempting to replace the radiator? If so, watch this video. The concept is the same and should address all your questions: ruclips.net/video/UVvCMDj_AN4/видео.html
@@hardlymovingpro I'm replacing the engine mounts. I haven't started yet but I'm trying to understand how much I have to deal with the radiator when removing the fan assembly to get to the front mount. The overflow tank is attached to the fan assembly so I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to keep coolant from coming out of the rest of the system when I remove that. Please forgive my ignorance if it's a fairly simple process as I'm dealing with the radiator for the first time like this.
Thanks for that other video by the way.
You bet!
Sir you’re an absolute pro 👍🏼
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro my car shake/vibrate so bad at any stoplight shake more aggressively when AC is on not matter if I put on nutural still vibrate I heard it it’s engine mount would reduce the vibrate or put on N ,, any idea what it could be , I changed spark plugs like 2 days ago thanks
Up to 2001 camry I4's have this problem as the car ages.
Marvelous calm calculated mechanics
Thanks!
How are the supports behaving to date? Regards.
No complaints to date.
Excellent, they are of good quality.
Hello, after taking off the upper coolant hose is there air introduced into the system? Do u need to “burp” the system or just connect the hose and go?
Just replenish coolant that was was lost with the hose removal into the fill cap opening.
Hello! Are the symptoms of bad mounts a clunking sound caused by lifting the pedal and then pressing the pedal?
That's a good indication of at least a bad front mount.
Thank you for quick reply. I had an hour drive to family event and noticed those symptoms. I may need to do this. Merry Christmas and God bless you and your loved ones.
Thank you that was very helpful
No problem!
How did you know the motor mounts were shot before removing them?
Details provided in the video's description.
Quality video and mechanic. Thanks!
You bet!
Dogbone is upper Torque mount? Thought there was a smaller piece in your kit
Torque rod is commonly referred to as a dog bone and is up top.
@@hardlymovingpro What were this cars issues that led to mount replacement diagnosis?
For the Torque mount, I would be able to just unbolt and replace, or would I have to support the engine?
No engine support needed
It need an alignment after you do this?
Nope
Do I need to loosen the front mount to take out the passenger side lower engine mount? My front mount is still good but the passenger side is bad and the less hassle for me to replace it the better
Yes. The top bolt for the front mount should be removed. Otherwise you won't be able to tilt the engine enough to remove the side mount. Also, don't forget to remove the top torque rod.
@@hardlymovingprook I thought so. Is there enough clearance to remove the bolt without removing the radiator fan or anything?
Hi , Notice you did not remove the axles for this job. With the 04-06 Siennas with the 3mz-fe engines , is it necessary to remove the axles to aid in lifting the engine to remove the mounts?
The cv axle joints will move with the tilting of the engine and transmission and therefore need not be removed.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you
I actually meant just the axle nuts. I saw one poster doing this as he claims a little more engine movement is possible. I just replaced all the three lower mounts and did not remove the axle nuts at all. I installed oem mounts and wished that the bolts were removeable like the aftermarket ones. It wasn't a problem though. One thing I did like , among other things, is that the top of the bolts except the drivers side , were tapered for better insertion into the mounting hole on the respective brackets. To aid this though I wedged couple strips of wood ( paint stir stck) between the frame and bottom of the flange for better alignment. This was my first time doing engine mounts on my Sienna. Bottom nuts are torqued to 35 ft lbs and the uppers at 59 call it 60 ft/lbs. Regards
@@abyssalsoul6216 thanks for sharing your installation story!
Fantastic video. But to all you Toyota and Lexus owners, I can’t stress this enough - use OEM engine mounts. They are more expensive but if you watch a few RUclips videos from Toyota master mechanics like car care nut, you will see that aftermarket engine mounts are no no.
Thanks for sharing!
What does the electronics on the front mount actuallyl do?
Vacuum control to stiffen or dampen the mount
Parts included... what's a reasonable price range for this procedure?
Parts prices vary .... recommend you shop around. Labor under 2.5 hours x labor rate.
I have a lexus es330 2004, which start to vibrate when I go above 40 miles/hour; I did tire balance and alignment, but it still the same issue (the whole car vibrate/shake)
do you think this will solve the problem?
CV axle is bent or the bearings are shot; or the lower control arm bushings are broken or worn out.
What do you think of those Anchor mounts? Inferior results compared to new OEM? Any premature failures known from the customers over time? The OEM mounts seem outrageously expensive on my 99 ES300. I don't think they are goners yet, even at 204k because of how conservatively I drive and accelerate, but I think they must have some wear. The strut torque mount only has a small-ish crack in it. No idea on the rest!
I've used anchor for years without issue
Next best thing to affordable non OEM.
hey man im currently doing all my engine mounts and ive gotten all of them out except the transmission mount. the bolt underneath one of its studs is seized on and is turning the stud with it. im using only hand tools, and i think my only bet is to get a propane torch and heat it up. if i damage the nut too much, is it just a generic nut ill need?
The thread pattern on the replacement nut will have to match the threads of the stud.
@@hardlymovingpro went to brafasco and was able to find the proper nut, then went and cut out the mount and replaced it with the new one. all thanks to your video, youre a legend.
@@hornandezsmith4845 Good for you and glad it all worked out!
@@hardlymovingpro hey boss, so as you know i changed all the mounts and everything is going good but im hearing a vibration now at idle thats relative to rpm. when it drops to around 800-700 rpm you can really hear it, about 1000rpm you dont hear it. i took avideo of it and ill upload it and tag you, maybe you can lend your expertise once more!
Edit: this is the link ruclips.net/video/5_qkoaJKauI/видео.html
Hear or feel a vibration? You may need a tuneup?
Another great video...however, doing this on a 190K mile V6 Camry I had to use the 2ft. breaker - battery impact got about 1/3 the way down then just expanded the stud from heat and stalled (17mm in-frame studs). I sprayed PB liberally but the problem is you can't get a wire wheel or hand brush in the frame rail openings to clean the rust off...so, the 17mm nut is effectively "cleaning" the threads on the studs as you go.. Its a B...an air impact would most likely zip them off but I am a jack stand DIY'er. My question is: can I re-use the 17mm stud nuts on a new set of OEM mounts I am ready to install? Toyota dealer doesn't stock them and added that they re-use them regardless. I watched all your 2GR-FE videos and they are great! Thanks
Before mounting on the new mounts, grease the studs and see how easy the 17mm nuts spin on. Also, if you have a metric tap and die set, you can clean up the nut's threads.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you. Going to the parts store to match up new ones. Also, I was not able to get the new top studs off the new OEM mounts prior to install - is there a trick? I had to go up pretty far with the floor jack to get them in, hope I didn't compress one too hard...great video's, great mechanic, thanks!
Thanks (in advance!)😅
How long would you say it'll take?
For me around 2 hours.
I’m just taking the engine out of my rx330. Do I have to unbolt the mounts from the bottom or if I just unbolt the points that are attached to the powertrain will the engine and transaxle be free?
Attached to the powertrain. Also cv axles require removal.
@@hardlymovingpro already popped the cv’s out. I have to cut the rusted studs / nuts on the Y split for cat bank 1 / the back header. I’m pulling it out through the top because I don’t have any way to safely drop it down. I’m thinking I should be able to pull it out with the back header and if not I can at least get some more space with the hoist to work on the back header/ cat bank 1 exhaust manifold, from the top side. I just have zero room to get enough torque to remove it. Also the heat shield nuts are rusted so I need to cut it off or hammer an extractor on.
@@hardlymovingpro one more thing. I was told I don’t need to remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear since I’m hoisting it out the top. Is this correct? I thought I had to because it’s listed step in the Haynes manual. I tried getting it out with a 3.5# mini sledge and 30” pry bar but was ineffective. So I’m hoping I don’t need to get an air hammer and can leave that.
Does Anchor engine mount work well
I personally haven't had any problems with them; although someone posted here that they didn't like them.
Is the 2GR-FXE in the 450h hybrid similar to this?
I think so.
Does the dogbone strut mount need a torque wrench or can it be hand tightened? Also do you need to jack the engine up to do just that one? Cause I’ve seen people do it without the jack, but want to know what you think. Let me know, thanks!!
Don't need a torque wrench for the dogbone and you don't need to jack up the engine.
Is this similar to the mounts on a 2006 Lexus IS250???
Can't say.
Is that the control arm it goes in ?
Nope. The subframe.
Is there any way to figure out which engine mount is bad? I will change all of them eventually but kinda on a budget rn
The front mount takes the most stress IMHO.
Are these too stiff how have they held up
They're good relative to Toyota OEM parts if you're looking for an inexpensive alternative.
Have a 2008 Lexus ES350.
Transmission mount has pin hole 180* different from the mount ordered. Is there a way to rotate the mount pin to align? My pin hole is pretty well facing out not in like your video shows.
TY
I would return the replacement and get one that looks like the originally you're replacing; unless you've got the mounts reversed.
Ty
I experience a jerk/vibration when I shift the gear to reverse, I think this video should help fix it or what do you think. I also noticed my infotainment system restarts sometimes when I rev to 3000 / 4000 rpm while on idle. The car is es 350 07, pls your reply will b appreciated and I just subscribed.
When was the last time you changed your transmission fluid?
I have a 2017 Sienna doing the same thing (big lurch P to R), jerking in low gears. The engine physically moves when shifting. I replaced all 4 mounts, still moves. Can't figure out why.
How feasible is it to change the front mount from underneath the car ? (without taking all the intake/battery/fan cover off)
It would be tough ... if not feasible. I've tried different methods and what you see in the video is the most efficient ... IMHO.
I keep hearing a pop on the right side of my es350 after talking off from a stop. All control arms are ok.
I assume it would be the right side mount? Are these all the mounts? Is there no rear mount‽
No rear mount. Best to replace all
I'm happy you said that. I thought there was only one bad mount on my 2005 Avalon, but you just reassured me that it is best to change all of them at the same time. Thanks....love your video
I love this thanks so much needed this
You bet!
Hi, I have a 2013 Venza V6 and mine also has the rear motor mount. How do I replace this mount?
Can't say since I haven't worked on the Venza.
@@hardlymovingpro oh okay, the highlander and rx350 have this rear mount too.
Thanks for this video!
You bet!
Isn't there a rear mount too?
On the older model yes. The new models no. Toyota setup large left and right mounts to compensate for the deleted rear.
Are all the mounts just rubber or is there oil in them?
Believe the front is oil filled.
Hello, I have a low bass sound and vibration at idle in gear. Goes away in neutral. I just replaced the water pump and dog bone mount. Wondering if I tore the drivers side mount when lifting the engine to do the water pump. Does this sound like it could be the cause? Is there any way to test or isolate this mount? The minor noise and vibration is driving me mad.
When you place it in gear, that drops the idle speed from neutral due to the load on the engine. Just a guess, but could be transmission related or the engine needs a tune up (new plugs, air filter, throttle body cleaning or perhaps a loose or leaking vacuum hose).
Do you have the torque specs for all of the mounts ? I can t find any info in the internet . I have a 2011 avalon that i plan doing it myself.. Thanks
Don't have them. I use impact tools to torque everything down.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks.. I think i ll just get a Haynes manual for camry and avalon using the 2gr fe engine.
Humming vibration noise felt under driver floor under light slow accleration Sienna 2009, 225k miles. Engine mounts or other suspension bearings?
It's a bearing component. Either wheel bearing or CV axles. Swerve left to right at speeds over 40 mph and see which side increases in noise; swerve left places tension on the right bearing and visa versa. If no difference, could be the center bearing of your right split cv axle.
Are torque specs available? Or just "good-n-tight" ?
Good-n-tight.
Question for Hardly Moving Productions... I've loosened my front motor mount before to perform a different part of maintenance on my 08 Avalon and I don't remember having to remove the radiator fan. I don't have a perfect memory, so if I'm wrong I'm wrong. That being said, 1) do you think it's absolutely necessary to remove that fan or could this possibly be done without doing that maybe loosen the nuts, etc. with a long extension from the top and then somehow removing it down below the car??? Just asking if you think that might be possible or not. Also, I've got plenty of super long long nose pliers to try to remove and reattach all the things that you did to the front mount... But I'm not sure if that would be able to be achieved gently enough with extra long needle nose pliers. 2) What's your opinion?
If the fan shroud is not in the way to get easy access to the mount and vacuum tubes, then leave the shroud in there.
How long did those anchor mounts last? I hear they aren't built very well and it's just better to go OEM?
Haven't so far experienced premature product wear and failures using Anchor mounts. You may have problem with Ebay no name brand parts.
Hey I replaced the upper engine mount (also known as a wishbone mount) and about 4 months later it cracked again. Would it be safe to assume this is a sign of bad lower engine mounts ?
Absolutely!
I have to do one tomorrow..All four plus struts all around...
Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah.. I started tonight... Right out of the gate. I fight to get the front mount out. Then realize. They gave me the wrong part. As it has no vacuum port on it..
No more customers bring me the parts. As they always seem to never get the right ones for the year model they have. Now I got to go buy the right ones. And then charge them for it....
Question,
2008 Lexus ES350. My pin hole on transmission mount is facing to the outside . Can you rotate the mount appropriately 90* so it will line up. The one I ordered has pin hole to the inside?
Don't think so. Replacement part should dimensionally match the original.
Hey I was changing the front motor mount and I accidentally broke off the top bolt. And I tried a few stores to look for it and I can’t seem to find any that fit. Any suggestions? HELP!!!
Get a replacement at a local auto salvage yard or lastly, the dealership.
I have a 2008 Lexus that vibrates when under power accelerating around 55-68 MPH (1600 rpm), does this sound lke motor mounts to you?
Could also be worn out CV axle bearings or bent axle shaft if under no load (coasting) the vibration disappears. Seen it happen a lot of Toyota / Lexus V6 FWD sedans, right passenger side.
@@hardlymovingpro How would I check for those potential issues?
Do you really need to remove most of them parts in the front. I know you need to remove the intake but never thought of removing the fan etc.
Unless you remove the fan shroud, there won't be room to remove the front mount.
I know one person comment about the Anchor brand. What are your thoughts? I called another part store that deal with China brand and japanese brand mainly. I was curious about the China brand he selling call DEA.
I would pay more for dealership but I think those be out of my price range(as you can tell I haven't call them yet probably Tuesday) I read everywhere people get mixed result with the Anchor brand.
I am planning on buying a sets tomorrow and get it going. Please reply at your convenience.
Thanks for the video , you have the link for all mounts ?
The video description details has the part numbers. From there, you can do a Amazon search for the parts for sale.
Hi, are these mount OEM or after market part? If after market parts, how is their quality after you installed so long time?
The mounts used in this video is aftermarkets made by Anchor Industries. They're just about as good as OEM with respect to longevity and installation.
Great job!! and thank you for sharing out anchor-online, I check them out but wasn't able to buy from their website?
Thanks! Use their part number to do a internet search for vendors.
Look on Rock Auto
Nice. What’s usually the cost to swap these mounts?
Cost of the mounts & around 2.5 hours labor (whatever the labor rate is in your area).
Outstanding!
Glad you like it!
He got some nice tools!
Thanks ... from years of accumulating the rights tools to make the job easier and go faster.
What typa car is this mounts are i have 09 camry v6 3.5 will that looks the same i need to change my rear engine mounth but i dont know location where its sitting is it on the side or behing the engine
No rear mounts on the V6 3.5L. Look at the "show more" text description of this video for a parts list breakdown
Since u did that
You should replace the lower control arms both
If the control arm bushings have split, then yes, replace the control arms.
I have a very lowered 08 is250, recently scraped pretty bad and damaged two brake lines on pass rear side (had a leak) just got to fixing that hoping it would fix my issues.. i did some research as i was experiencing the car jerking violently when going from park to drive, after the bad scrape (also the dash lights for the gears are not turning on) it will show it going into sport for a second but goes away right after. Cant shift up or down in sport either.. trans seems to be shifting fine while driving just the jerk when going from P to D, i have noticed the trans mount on the right side was a little off compared to dr side but thought nothing rly of it until i did more research finding out that it may be the trans mount thats causing the jerk from P to D, but also wondering why my dash lights for the gears wont turn on (p/r/n/d/sport) Is this normal to happen when having damaged trans mount? Im hoping i havent damaged the trans itself or driveshaft or anything like that. If you have any input id really appreciate it!
Also after doing the brake line repair i have planks under rear wheels to lift the car up so i can fit my jack under the skirts, when i put it into drive (the violent jerk happened) and it kicked out the pass side plank (only pass side) a good 5/10 feet from under the pass rear wheel.. im sure this is proof that theres an issue on that side but would faulty trans mounts cause this or something else ? (driveshaft/diff issue?)
I would highly recommend you find yourself a transmission repair shop that can at least give you a free repair estimate. Compare what they said is wrong with another shop and see if they reached the same conclusion.
Man, you look and sound like you know exactly what you're doing lol. Thank you!!! I can't wait until the day you do a timing belt on the Lexus V8 engine.
Thought I had a V8 job all lined up. Looks like I scared the customer away with the repair quote.
No.. Wait for the infamous Nissan Frontier Timing Belt..
Can you send me the correct ft trq pound for yhe nuts used on camry v6 for those mounting?
Sorry ... don't have them. As shown in the video, I torque them down using my electric impact tools.
How about the rear mount?
There is no rear.
Can you tell me where u got all 4 mounts from I have a 2008 es350 but I can only find the 3 mounts the one in the front by the radiator I cant find only one I can find is from the dealer but I can't afford 250 bucks for the 1 mount and how is the anchor brand with mounts I've herd to stay away from them that they are trash but you can't believe everything u here did this brand hold up fine and last awhile
There are three mounts: front, left and right. The top is not a mount but rather a torque rod to prevent the engine from tilting forward during load or acceleration.
No their is a 4th one rite by the radiator I thought their was just 3 to theirs actually 4 I have the same exact 3.5 motor v6
Yes theirs 3 ur rite but its like theirs 4 but anyway were did u get all 3 then cause I cant find the front one by the radiator anywerw
The anchor online catalogue does not work.
You can always call their toll free number.
Good work, i would have done the lower arm bushes at the same time though!
Not a bad idea since the mount is in the way of the control bolts.
@@hardlymovingpro In your defense I have been changing the lower arm bushes on an RX400h today so its very fresh. Only difference between the two is you can't jack the engine up high enough in the 400h to make removing the engine mounts easy, and i'm in the UK so everything has about 100x more rust.
Does anyone have any idea what the torque spec for the engine mounts to subframe bolts are?
Recommend you get yourself a repair manual. They'll have all your torque specs.
German Spec - Guten Tight
I’m getting heavy vibration from the front end of the car when accelerating past 40. The vibration isn’t in the steering wheel. Only the front end. The dog bone needs to be replaced bcuz there is absolutely no rubber on the inside. It’s driving me crazy , I had done the brakes and rotors, thought maybe I had a stuck caliper but they were fine. Please help 😢
This is on a 97 Lexus ES300
Could be a bent wheel, out-of-round tires or bent axle shaft.
@@hardlymovingprothank you for the fast reply. I’m going to go check the axle now, and get new tires 😅
Great job!
Thanks for the visit!
What size are the motor mount nuts?
From my recollection, 14 mm ... otherwise, 17 mm.
@@hardlymovingpro so was the stud nut size 17mm that u use a long wrench to remove?
10113 anchor Part number correct for the es350? I can't find it anywhere.
Contact Anchor's tech support line: anchor-online.com/products/engine-mounts/
@@hardlymovingpro Just got off the phone with them. Apperceive part # 10113 is no longer being made and has been discontinued.
How long did it take to do this job?
Around 2 hours
We need video how to replace front engine mount support for Aurion 2011, its different front Toyota Camry, none a single video in RUclips you may be the first one if you do it.
Sorry. No Aurion vehicles in the USA.
Thank you 🙏🏽
No problem 😊
Do more Honda Civics on your early videos. All parts, replacements and fixes.. Specially the 2001-2005 variants which is lowly covered online. You'll have a subscriber and views boost, trust me you'll be million subs in 6 months.
ruclips.net/video/ArNsw83SgaM/видео.html
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You have link for all the mounts ? On Amazon ? Or eBay ? Link please , I have same car , try to do all 4 too
The video description details has the part numbers. From there, you can do a Amazon search for the parts for sale.