Watching this video made me sad. It was like seeing a very good friend at the funeral home in their casket. I have an 07 Avalon. I absolutely love her. She had 24k miles on her when I bought her, today she has 92k miles. I'm a stickler for maintenance, oil and filter change every 3k miles, I also have the tires rotated with every oil change. Easier to keep track of that way. I love everything about the Avalon, smooth quiet ride, 30 mpg on the highway, and what surprised me most about the car is the power that engine delivers. It is so mild mannered putting around town, but if you stick your foot in it to pass another car, you can be doing 40 mph and she'll be spinning the tires as you pass, and by the time you get by you'll be doing 80-85 mph, and the sound of the engine is like a jet engine spooling up, it loves to scream. I don't know what the top speed is, I've had it up to 130 mph, and decided that was fast enough for me. Funny thing though, it feels like the faster you go in the Avalon, the more planted to the ground it feels. Older cars will start feeling light, and floaty at higher speeds. I think I'm different, I like to see the engine, hear it run, so I took the big plastic cover off. I plan on the Avalon being the last car I own, and when I'm to old to drive I'll pass her down in the family.
@jasonw9277 I discovered that the only thing the beauty cover is good for is providing a good place for mice to build a nest and chew on the wiring. That's happened twice to me. Since removing the beauty cover, I've not had any further rodent issue.
What kills them? Lack of an oil level sensor, lack of proper maintenance, not using the correct oil, not using the correct filter, cracked filter housing, upper Rocker oil, feed lines crack, and that's all I know of. I own one in my 2011 sienna and it's the most amazing V6 I've ever experienced in my life. The power and torque and good throttle response that's not too sensitive is what I enjoy about this Toyota engine.
What kills them is Toyota owners not knowing that their Toyota antifreeze needs to be changed every 30-50k miles! Antifreeze becomes acidic as it ages and will start damaging parts in the cooling system, but most car owners forget to have their cooling system serviced because Toyotas are known to be reliable.
I'm a computer programmer. I'm probably never going to tear an engine apart. I watch for your excellent storytelling and humor. I appreciate your upbeat attitude in every job. It's fascinating to see the various ways engines can fail, and to hear your thoughts about them. I have learned quite a lot by watching you do what you do. Just writing to let you know that you are reaching people with your work, your entertainment, and your positivity. Thank you for sharing with us :)
You can start disassembling stuff any time you want. I too work in IT. I’ve reconditioned 3 Dyson vacuum cleaners destined for landfill. Together new they were over $2k. The trick is to pull stuff apart without the intention of putting it back together so that when you have something you want to keep it’s not as daunting
Hi, I’m also a programmer but like taking apart cars and trying to put them back together… if you can code you absolutely have the problem solving skills to diagnose and repair cars. Most of the time it’s just finding the missing semicolon in the engine bay.
If you WANT to: Find a ~2000s era SUV to learn on, they're cheap, the parts are cheap, it's not all programmed modules, and with the SUV you get a decent bit of room for most tasks. This all assumes you have space.. Avoid the 4.0SOHC though. 4.3 Vortec is easy to work on(the bellhousing is a bitch on the S10 Blazer.) Even if you blow up the engine(I did in my S10), that $3,000 is how many car payments toward a new vehicle that's no more capable? They'll deliver the engine right to your house and pick up the old one!
@@videospedrin07I doubt the lack of oil changes directly killed it. The low oil level and clogged oil galleries is what killed it. These engines like synthetic oil which some cheap oil change places still don’t use.
Number one rule of ANY engine, IMMEDIATELY pull over and turn it off if the overheating dummy light turns on. Don't even drive it 100 yards to a safer location, home, a shop, etc. Another tip is after shutting it off, turn the key to ACC and switch on the heater to pull away the heat. This will also allow the cooling fan(s) to come back on. Popping the hood is also a good idea. But, DON'T remove the radiator cap as it would cause serious burns. If you follow these tips, more than likely the engine will be fine. Had a Toyota Camry overheat after the water pump developed a leak. Did everything I just typed, and after replacing the water pump and coolant, still motoring with over 200k.
Great advice! I had a celica in 1986 which overheated on my way home from work, I pulled over, turned the heater on full and opened the bonnet (hood), I let it cool down, topped it up with water and drove it the last two miles home. The engine was rattling when it first overheated but by doing what I did I saved it. Changed the head gasket, timing tensioner (as it looked a bit worn) then drove it to the south of France and back, no excessive oil or water consumption, I was lucky, but at the age of 21 I'm surprised I had the foresight to do what I did. Thanks to Dad for showing me how to fix cars from an early age!
I pulled over as soon as I got an overtemp warning on my 2.0L EcoBoost while running TOTD two years ago. Didn't shut it off, though. Shut the A/C off, popped the hood, and let it idle (my thinking being to keep the coolant circulating and the fans running). A UOA showed no issues afterwards. I'm still not sure why it happened; I can only assume that a coolant drain and fill I did the day before I left on the trip allowed some air into the system. Only coolant related issues since then was a minor T-stat housing leak and trans cooler line leak that were fixed together.
Depends if you know your shit or not. Heat on full blast does a very good job at diagnosing the exact issue. You have to act very fast though. A heat soaked cooling system will go supercritical in under 5 minutes. I slightly overheated my J35 a few times (multiple small issues, don't want to list it all) and full heat brought the temp back to normal in under a minute, even climbing a 15% hill for 10 miles after a long WOT pull!
When my 95 Integra had developed a bad head gasket I would keep a close eye on the temperature gauge. It mostly stayed at normal operating temperatures if the radiator was topped off and traffic was moving. But there were a few times when it would start to overheat. I would then run the heater at full blast to buy me some time and I would immediately pull over where ever possible and shutdown the engine. I would then open the hood to help the heat radiate out more easily and I would top off the coolant jug. All it took was 10-20 minutes for the engine to cool down enough to continue. I ended up doing this a few times until I got it fixed. I still have the car to this day running fine with 276K miles. Knowing how to not only drive but to also operate an ICE engine makes a big difference on the longevity of a car.
My grandfather was a mechanic and his shop still stands 25 years after he left us. I respect him through all mechanics. thank you for doing what you do
I hope he left it to honest folks, not rip off mechanics. Sure it’s hard work, but thieving people who don’t earn much to keep up with regular tier 2 maintenance is way worse.
48 years of fixing cars, I really expected to see melted Bearings after seeing all the melted plastic…I’m just amazed that the bearings were in such good shape. Gotta hand it to Toyota.
I had to clean out a 3.9 Dodge that went 86k on 1 oil change. We scrubbed the Quaker sludge out, I abrasive blasted the oil pump pickup screen, replaced the oil pump, and buttoned it back up. Filled it to the top with diesel fuel, drained it, put 5 quarts of diesel fuel and a quart of MMO in it, ran it until it was warm, drained it, filled it with oil and a new filter. Drove it around for a week, changed the oil, and handed the keys back. She made it another 100k, before it succumbed to the same fate. Delo 400 or shell Rotella is trusted in $40k engines for a reason, but people want to use puddzoil, quaker sludge, valvoline, castrol, ect.
@@willpage79 Yes I did, it was leaking from the water pump. Not a lot at first, but gradually got worse. At first I could just smell it after turning off the engine. The heater inside also quit heating because no hot water was getting back to the heater core.
@@johng.7560 in mines I don't see no leaks and it's not overheating either ,I'm going to try to change the radiator cap and fill back up to see what happens
During the video you mentioned the rubber section of the VVTi oil line toward the rear of the engine. That's one big flaw of this version of the 2GR-FE. A BIGGER design flaw was that this engine also rubber portions of the engine oil cooler pipes. Those 2 lines are located at the bottom front of the engine right next to a catalytic converter which gets very hot. My guess is that one of those rubber sections ruptured and if someone was driving 60 to 70 mph when that happened and did not pull over and turn off the engine soon enough, then good bye to this engine. Just a pinhole in one of the rubber lines would be enough to lose all 6 quarts of oil very quickly. This happened to my wife while driving her 2011 Highlander a couple of years ago. Fortunately, she was driving in town, not very fast and pulled over and turned the engine off right after she saw the low oil pressure light come on. There was no damage to the engine...Toyota put the all metal oil cooler pipes on it and it's still running fine today. If these rubber oil cooler lines are not replaced, they will burst. Not if but when. Shame on Toyota for not recalling both the rubber oil cooler pipes and the rubber VVTi oil line. They did issue Technical Service Bulletins for both but no full recalls. These 2 faults have and will kill these versions of this engine(mainly 2007-2011) prematurely. If these parts are replaced in time and the proper maintenance is performed, they can reach 300 to 400 thousand miles.
You freaked me the f*ck out and had to look into this so my car doesn't blow up lol there are certain models of the 2GR-FE that do not have these oil cooler lines. The Camry, Avalon, ES350 do not have an oil cooler line from factory. If anyone's wondering...But does have that cabbage VVTI oil line with the rubber section.
The vvti hose with the rubber section and the water pump are known failure points on older 2GRs. Both have been redesigned. There are plenty 2GRs out there with well over 300K miles and still going strong. With proper care you'll rebuild your driver's seat before the 2GR.
Also beware! Some models are equipped with a oil cooler. Newer versions of the 2GR-FE. Have the updated, all metal lines. However, The older versions of the 2GR-FE. Have a rubber section in them as well.
The 2GR in my 2008 RAV4 was still running strong at 310,000 miles when I sold it. It didn’t burn a drop of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. I drove it like I stole it from the day I bought it too.
Who in his right mind would change oil every 5000 miles ! Talk about polluting the Earth. I have a 2003 Mercedes C320 with 250000 miles on it, oil changes every 12 to 15 000 miles. Motor has never been opened! Motor issues....belt tensioner pulleys replaced, x 1 water pump at 200 000 miles with altenator new bearings and brushes
yeah ppl they don't like baby sitting there care with monthly oil changes! "My toyota ran problem free , I only changed the oil every 2 months. Can buy another car from the cost of all the oil changes and let us not even talk about pollution impact from all the oil changes!
Some housewives do not care, lol. All they care about is if their children are going to safely fit in the car and that the van starts every day. I can picture it now, the van was probably screaming for attention, but momma bear could not hear it over the three screaming children in the back seats! lol
Until almost a year ago, I owned a 2007 Toyota Sienna so seeing this engine was a bit of a treat I'm not going to lie. My own made it to about 226,000 miles before I had to get rid of it. It was needing some parts replaced which wasn't a huge deal. The problem was that said parts and the engine block were basically inseparable, and they weren't coming out/off without potentially damaging other things in the process of the removal so I sold it to a business similar to your own. Your observation about the rubber hose being used for oil reminded me of a problem I had with my Sienna a number of years back. Twice in the space of twelve or eighteen months or so I had a hose fail that caused me to lose basically all my oil at once, which is great when you are doing 70mph on the highway at the time it happened (both times, ugh). The first time it happened the hose got replaced. The second time it happened a different shop did the work and they said that it was a known issue with that model of engine and that Toyota had since replaced it with a metal part. They did the replacement on mine and I never had that problem again. Thank you as always for educating and entertaining us Eric, I hope you and yours are doing well.
I'm very familiar with that hose actually, it comes in every once in a while still, but I always end up having to use the stupidest combination of 1/4inch extensions and wobble joints, it's ridiculous. But yes, it did eventually get common enough for an improved part to be released lol
Same. Rubber line had a pin hole in it and was headed back home from a weekend trip on the freeway when “low oil pressure” flashes on the dash… luckily I coasted into a grocery store and limped it home after 4qts of oil later. Still running after almost no oil lol.
Heard about this issue recently and that was my first thought too seeing this. I'm swapping my oil cooler line to the metal part too. You think that could have happened here? I figured you'd see more oil starvation signs rather than overheating
Awesome. I work at the Toyota Casting plant in Troy Missouri. We casted those 2GR heads as well as the main engine bracket in the front of the motor. There should be a mark on the front and rear of the heads starting with letter ‘B’ followed by the casting die number. Casting date is scribed under the intake runners. I agree, awesome engine and fun to see our parts after some run time..!!
It's always the person who sees it overheating, but they're 5 miles from the home and keep going anyway. We had an older lady, afraid of being stuck on the side of the road, overheated and melted her engine and wondered why she needed a new one.
When my 95 Integra had developed a bad head gasket at around 200k miles I would keep a close eye on the temperature gauge. It mostly stayed at normal operating temperatures if the radiator was topped off and traffic was moving. But there were a few times when it would start to overheat and I would immediately pull over where ever possible and shutdown the engine. I would then open the hood to help the heat radiate out more easily and I would top off the coolant jug. All it took was 10-15 minutes for the engine to cool down enough to continue. I ended up doing this a few times until I got it fixed. I still have the car to this day running fine with 276K miles. The driver/operator makes a big difference.
What makes that cam sub assemble so awesome is if something tears up a cam and bearing you can replace that part and NOT the whole cylinder head like most other cars!
My first 2GR was still purring at 240. My current is like factory new at 130! They really are bulletproof if properly taken care of. Like many others here, I’m amazed how it held up. Great video!
I am a Toyota tech, I replaced one of these recently in a 2014 Sienna with only 120,000 miles, pretty much perfectly maintained. A Cylinder 6 intake valve spring broke and blew it up. It’s rare but we’ve seen them drop valves, mostly on early 2GR FKS from 2016-17.
You lie. Toyotas are indestructible! Everyone knows this. If you buy a Toyota, it will last FOREVER. and never ever need any repairs EVER!!! Although I will say my 2017 Hyundai Elantra I bought new just turned 100.000 miles, and hasn't needed ANY repairs at all. Weird huh.
@@johnfranklin5277 I have a couple GMC trucks with 250,000 miles and according to Toyota drivers , they are not supposed to do that . I better put Toyota emblems on them . I've over heated them and nothing like this has ever happened. Lets pretend Toyota's actually last longer . Its still not worth the price and lack of utility and extra fuel cost.
I got my 2008 Rav4 about 8 months ago with 115,498 on it, I have it up to 129,000 now and I love everything about this engine!!! I ALWAYS replace my oil at less than 5,000 mile intervals as I have heard this is by far the best thing you can do to make it last. Unfortunately this is the gen with the VVT defect but I haven't had any issues with it yet and I plan on keeping it that way. I love my Toyota tho
I have seen a very similar failure of the intake manifold on a 2AR-FE back when I worked for Toyota. The vehicle (a Scion Tc) came in making a strange popping sound through the intake manifold and had an assortment of codes. Long story short, found out the vehicle had been over rev'd and quite a few of those roller rockers had fallen off due to valve float and on one particular cylinder, both exhaust rockers fell off, but the intake stayed. At the end of the combustion cycle, since the exhaust had no place to go with the valves not opening, as soon as the intake valves would open, all of the exhaust gases went up into the intake causing the pop sound and melting that intake runner.
I was a jet engine mechanic and an electrician in the USAF for years. A single DC valve that opens and closes is 10k. A titanium engine blade is around 60k.
Currently working at toyota,at my shop at least the 2gr-fe is basically the least common for any repairs, usually its the water pump that fails. Ive seen some VERY rare that have a oiling issue on the cam phasers, 99.9999999% of the time is cause by bad maintenance.
@@badonkadonkey16 The new style water pump is included as well, not as often but it’s pretty common. It’s usually never a low mileage thing, most common around 130-180k miles.
Reminds me of my very first week on my very first job out of high school. Bob's Auto Repair. As the new guy I had the "pleasure" of tearing down and cleaning a Buick 455 that a little old lady had grossly overheated and continued to run until it died. I can remember dry-retching every time a new part came off of that engine and tearing down the oil pump was almost more than I could bear. Why, why, why, people can you not understand the concept of an oil change? Keep 'em coming Eric! I'll be here every Saturday night. Cheers.
I just started to watch your channel. I like your style. No bullshit, just plain and simple adventures going through an unknown engine and explaining what you see. Sincere content without pushing a sponsor through my throat. Much appreciated. I wish you all the best and thank you for my enjoyment. Best, Job
Hurts my feelings seeing a 2gr tore up. I work at a Toyota factory that built the one that is in the Camry. The one in Kentucky. Great powertrain really...
I think the Ford 4.6 2v engine is a great engine as well, but I have one that's been windowed in my back yard. Given to me for 'science'. This one actually has a broken wrist pin in it! The 2GR is an excellent engine, as are many of Toyota's engines. I like the UZ series V8s quite a bit.
@@silicon212 I've seen that failure on my friend's neighbor's Ford that was started and then revved very high straight away in the dead of winter with questionable maintenance.
I had this in my 2011 Toyota Rav4 v6 awd, I drive it 11,000 cross country at 65-115 mph , some drives for 15 hours straight, was 110 out some days, and the engine was rock solid, engine had 80,000 miles
So great to hear about ethics and your stance. As someone that might buy a used motor and replace my old one, thank you for not selling a known bad motor.
Hey Eric. Excellent tear down as always. The 2GR-FE are notorious for water pump leaks to the point Toyota made an updated version. The one in the video is the older circular pulley design. The updated design has a flower/clover leaf looking pulley, which has had less issues.
25:04 that sound you hear is the bolts loosing their pre-tension. They are designed to be elongated quite a bit compared to regular bolts. It’s almost like having a super strong spring pulling the mating faces together. This helps with keeping things together where you have extreme vibration and thermal cycles.
The oil line with the rubber section on the valve cover is actually a super common failure point on these engines and Toyota does have an updated part number with a full metal line that they started using in the later model years but it will still bolt on to the older model years for whenever that line decides to leak.
When you oh-so-gently moved and tenderly placed the leaking water pump you'd never use in any circumstances like a priceless vase, I freakin' lost it. You're awesome.
As a tech that has seen these fail, it's always a water pump that dumps coolant. The temp gauge doesn't register that it's overheating (no coolant on the sensor to have an accurate temp reading) and they run until they melt. Fantastic engine overall though
Did a water pump on an 08 Avalon with the 2GR @130k miles, took about 4 hours and it was the first one I'd changed on a 2GR. Sold the car @225k and it's still on the road.
This is absolutely one of the best V-6 engines ever made. I remember when it came out in the Camry, it could actually give the Mustang GT a run for it’s money and actually pull on it on the highway. The only V-6 I’ve enjoyed owning more than the 2GR is the Honda J35, because VTEC crossover sounds in a minivan is f***ing hilarious.
Great video. My 13 highlander has the same engine. Looks like this one was a little neglected. Mine has 130k miles and hope it lasts a long time. I do all maintenance on it, including 5k mile oil changes. Nice to actually see the entire engine outside the car. What a treat. Thanks.
This was not necessarily because of lack oil changes, but mainly because of lack of coolant change (probably never at 180k miles). Acidity in old coolant eats the steel head gasket sealant, sandwiched between two aluminum surfaces. And that is what makes milkshake. Or burn off coolant, steaming the cylinders...
The reason for the relative "high price" is because its a populair engine swap into the MR2. Modern tech, huge power in stock form and the reliability make it a very sweet package.
I use to work at Toyota and I've seen so many of these engines. like you said they came in so many different vehicles. if I remember correctly the filter had plastic in the center as a "support" for the paper filter so if it got hot enough to melt the intake that most likely melted long before the intake
My father used to work for the forklift division of Toyota he would order A diamond white pearl Avalon every two years in 2005 he was one of the very first people to get the 2GFRE in the Avalon prior to that I think it was released in the Camry if I remember correctly so about 15,000 miles into the engine it was developing a lower end rod knock, Toyota flew three engineers out and told the dealer not to touch the engine cause They wanted to take my fathers engine back for some R&D well my dad and Toyota didn’t realize that they had a teenage driver borrowing my dad‘s company car and I sort of like to race people in an Avalon On Saturday night… needless to say I can say I played a hand in this entrance durability.
@@timbrown9731 That’s a funny story ! Honestly though you shouldn’t have been able to hurt that engine in 15000 miles drag racing a few nights a week . There probably really was something wrong with it or you sat it on valve float for hours on end.
@John DiMartino if he was drag racing it prior to break in then yes he most certainly did some premature damage. Plus you think a teen would wait until engine is at proper operating temp before banging it off the redline?
I had the flu last week, so I went back to watch an older tear down video. When you have a fever and body aches the sound of breaking head bolts loose is awful.
143,000 trouble free miles on mine. Pretty versatile engine…good power, good fuel economy, unreal trouble free reliability. Not a single misfire, check engine light, zero oil consumption. 10,000 mile oil change intervals a majority of its life. Changed the plugs and serpentine belt at 120,000 miles. Original water pump and not a single leaking gasket. I’m impressed.
I have a question, I bought a 2012 rav4 v6 AWD with 95k miles. It is very fast and I drive it spirited daily. Is it safe to do so and I am afraid of it breaking down like transmission going out?
@@topo520I would probably keep up with the fluid changes on the transmission (if you haven’t already), but otherwise I feel as if they are very reliable. I don’t know just how spirited of driving you are actually doing…I don’t beat on mine but it’s often driven at speeds between 70-80 mph, and a few redlines a week. Zero issues.
@@doublebase6509 I have taken her up to 120mph and few drag races at stop lights. I put premium fuel only and she pull really hard.I changed oil every 5k miles and coolant because the heat here in Arizona is unbearable. Transmission fluid not yet. I will do that soon. Now at 103k miles
@@doublebase6509 did I mention to you that I raced my friends charger 395 RT with the hemi V8 and I beat him till 80mph? Toyota Supra GR, Infiniti Q50, Range Rover, Toyota Camry, Nissan 350z, Mercedes E450, Nissan Armada v8, Mercedes GLE450, BMW 650 and many more and beat them all? I will do my plugs soon and it should be faster I am sure. The A/C is ice cold as well. I love it!
To see the torched cylinder wall , the melted knock sensors and intake manifold was unreal! Never seen that before. Would give almost anything to know exactly how hot that engine got. Great video man
Water pump is not easy at all with that engine on a rav4. Mine didn’t leak but bearings were shot. You have to support the engine, remove the engine mount and raise the engine to try and fit your hands and tools between the engine and unibody “frame rail”. Dealership had quoted me at $1,300
I have an rx450h with the 2gr-fxs and although not exactly the engine you've torn down, it's almost the same and I'm fascinated to see this engine in it's component state, very therapeutic to watch!
I spent the first 20 years of my life driving tractors, trucks and combines. You learned to bloody watch the gauges. Several times I have avoided disaster in cars because something told me look at the temperature. I am guessing I had subconsciously noticed a variation due to the long time of consciously checking. Dipstick and temperature gauge saves a lot of money.
16:30 kinda wished the companies who made engine stands also made drain pans that fit around and over the stand itself. Basically covering the orange bottom section so that even less mess would be made from jobs like this
First You should be wearing safety glasses, but you already know that…. Right? …. I have experience with these engines 2GR-FE, they had inherent design flaws. 1- Poor head gaskets, in the early models, a very common and very expensive failure, as these engines were not designed to be serviced “in Frame”, worse getting the engine cradle bolts out requires quite a bit of work, because they were not properly protected, and they rust in place. It required a map gas gun and plenty of PB blaster to get all of mine out. The struggle went on for two days. Caught my blown gasket early, so the engine could be repaired. It’s running today 2- A poorly designed VVT oil tube, which was made of metal and rubber tubing (Right side head or for transverse, Back Cylinder Head, seen in the video) The rubber tube would rupture, and within seconds the engine oil would be pumped out of the ruptured hose. Toyota later replaced the hose with an all metal hose assembly.
My wife is a 100 pound Filipina. Whenever your videos come on I tell her that her favorite video is up. She glares at me and says "I can't even understand what he's doing (and then makes impact noises) then walks away 😂
I have a 2GR-FE and do all of my own maintenance (in the past, I've rebuilt Toyota engines and transmissions among other things-I'm an experience mechanic). I know a little bit about the 2GR though I have not had to do any thing major to mine. . Your ratchet should have removed only the small drain plug on the bottom of filter housing, but I noticed that you unscrewed the entire housing. This only happens if someone over-tightens the drain plug. The housing usually requires a large diameter adapter tool that is larger in diameter than the oil filter housing itself. and it engages with external lugs on the housing to unscrew it. Additionally, the oil filter was fused to a spring loaded metal tube that is part of the filter housing. As you said in the video, the filter melted. This engine massively overheated. This 2GR-FE is pre-2009. The VVT-i oil lines that go from the heads to the valve covers were upgraded to 100% steel (no rubber section in the middle of the line) in the 2009 and later 2GR-FE, as Toyota discovered that the rubber can fail, causing the engine to lose all oil and oil pressure. This particular 2GR-FE managed to make it to 180K miles without blowing this oil hose (surprising). The small amount of pink coolant dried around the weep hole of the water pump is actually normal. Toyota has a TSB that says a small amount of dried coolant is normal. The TSB goes on to say that a massive amount of dried coolant or wet coolant/active leak at the weep hole requires replacement of the water pump. As for what happened to this particular 2GR, it looks like it was run very low on coolant. When filling the 2GR-FE with coolant, there is a very specific procedure that must be followed to get rid of all air (burp the system). Car Car Nut on YT has a video on how to do this.
The straight six in the old 280z was the best motor Japan ever produced.i pulled one with 200,000 miles to put a 383 stroker in an old z.I sold the straight six to a guy in town to put in his z and he drove it for another couple hundred thousand miles and sold it still running good.id love to see twin turbos on the old Datsun/Nissan straight six.
@@suzi_mai I'm just surprised we don't see more of those six cylinders at the track with nitrous and stuff I bet you could get a solid 1000 HP out of one relatively easy and I bet would stay together without a lot done to the bottom end.
I’ve only ever seen one of these 2grs fail. At 205k miles the original water pump failed on the owner 600 miles from home. They had a “Toyota” shop replace the pump, but that shop never properly bled the cooling system of the air. So the large air pocket trapped in the rear cylinder head ruined that engine on the remaining 600 miles home. Wild thing was, the car ran smooth as glass with a blown head gasket and the temp gauge almost pegged.
Had a Toyota V8 3UR-FE that got so hot, it not only melted the intake and knock sensors, but a couple of the valve seats dropped as well, it’s crazy how hot engines get without people realizing it
That's what us dedicated MOPAR owners say. Most Dodge's live with abusive owners. All that technology for in the end, just a fancy OHV engine. " Mechanical complication increases the possibility of mechanical failure"😂
The only bad thing is bad maintenance. They have some oil cooler lines that get brittle and crack and lets out all of the oil (there is an upgraded part for that). They also tend to have a mysterious oil leak that no one figures out, but its actually from the timing cover. P. S. The engine has to come off the car to reseal the timing cover. Big dollar job.
Honestly in all my years working on them I never bother telling the customer they need to fix that leak cause they're never really bad imo I've never seen one dripping off the engine, just oily
@@Jack-qn4vt im no toyota tech but ive heard the stories. There are some that are quite subtantial. The chrysler pentastars also have this issue, but its very easy to fix. Lots of room (especially on grand cherokees and Durangos) and the rams with that engine. And engine stays in the car.
@dboatrig Literally the same thing happened to me on my wife's RX350. The rubber oil line had a micro-crack and it sprayed a thin trail of oil all the way downtown. I caught it microseconds from running dry. When I pulled the dipstick it was bare, added 3 litres of oil and it came back up and ran perfect. I switched that oil line and it's been perfect since.
My mom's 2009 sienna with the 2gr has 315k ish miles that fucker still runs like it's new. I've put cams and rings in it at around 250k ish. But man that van has been so good to us. It's been everywhere and she still drives it daily
Shamelessly putting it in an original Turbo 94. Less than 200 in the country. The 3sgte will be refreshed and cleaned to look like a showroom piece - a very expensive decoration.
Even more blasphemous is that I have an m54b30 waiting to go into my 83 Celica Supra. I'm going to treat the current 5mge to some new rod bearings and head studs before turboing it, and slowly rebuild the BMW motor with forged everything - find a newer ZF 6 speed or even the earlier close ratio/non-OD 5 speed - with a final dream build actually using BMW AWD. it may take a decade, but it will be fun as hell.
Eric, I enjoy your channel! I learn a lot. Retired automotive engineer who worked in Germany. Experienced mechanic prior to college. I worked in my Dad's shop and ran it as his health began to fail. I love the fact you have a thick skin, so many on RUclips take their toys and go home if you criticize the Eurotrash they tend to buy for their Yuppie wives. You do damn good work!
First thought was front coolant leak after you mentioned overheat. Have had three on our 135k Sienna, incl a Gates pump that only lasted 50k miles, a brand new tstat gasket that failed to seal, and the silly o-ring on the bypass line which shouldn't be reused. The water inlet gasket is super easy to pinch doing it in-frame. Factory procedure is to drop the motor for the water pump, unnecessary.. I've done it twice, though the comically long torque mount bolts are frustrating. Interesting to see the spark plugs come out so easily, mine were galled pretty good.
Hard to find those, blowing head gaskets on a DE is 'difficult' and it's otherwise bulletproof. Racers blow them, because racer reasons. I have an HR and a '13 VHR in the driveway, I'm waiting those out like a hawk.
Hello, Thank you for providing such a comprehensive survey of these engines. I live in the UK and I've noticed how people don't maintain their engines, I check my oil, coolant and screen wash every Sunday. I have a Ford Fusion, now this is based on the Fiesta, its a 1.6 duratech engine, I find that the garages are not very good when they do a service, I've had a bad experience, when the car was in for it 195 mile service, they garage incorrectly screwed on the oil filter and consequently the filter blew and bust whilst I was driving on the motorway which blew the engine, so I called the garage and demanded they replaced the engine. I visited the garage they day after I returned the car and they had ordered a 1.4, I told them that it was a 1.6, They didn't believe me and asked me for the registration number which confirmed it was a 1.6, so they sourced an engine from Ford fusion which had a automatic gearbox, so now the car throws up a engine management light, so now, I've given up letting a garage do my servicing, the car has now done nearly 290, 000 miles, I asked another garage to replace the Campbeltown, which was done, they replaced the water pump, power steering and alternator belts and a week later, I heard a squeaking from the engine bay, looked down and the alternator belt is damaged, that's why I don't have any confidence with garages. Brilliant programmes. Thank you Ian Burns
Thanks for the video. Have on of these in my 07 Camry has 230 k on it. If you do basic maintenance on this you will get sick of the car before the engine gives up… great engine . Just change the oil and of course don’t let it over heat…
2gr-fe Car Care Nut said it’s Achilles heel is timing cover leak, and extremely sensitive to low oil pressure other than that, upgrade the oil cooler to rear VVT-I bank and upgrade the VVT-I gears those with pre 2010 and it’s a wonderful engine. Mine has 262,000 no leak no problem and Im also maintaining a 5vz-fe and 1mz-fe.
Mine has timing cover "seep," not enough to show drips underneath the engine. Dealer wanted to drop the engine to fix it. It's 50,000 miles later and it still seeps.
My father drove a 2011 sienna up until 2 years ago and loved it. Only thing he ever did to it was shocks after it got stolen and then nearly blew em out. Engine was reliable, but I love seeing the full tear down of this thing and seeing what failed.
I work at Toyota, not for long at the moment but I do know these have water pump issues, sometimes the oil crossover line on the rear bank can burst, but that was a big recall so I doubt they're still doing that, or the oil cooler line in the older highlanders would rupture. Aside from that I'm not aware of any more issues, but I'm searching the comments for more!
@@MowerModdin I'd absolutely love to see Eric tear down some sort of flathead car engine. AT this point I don't care how many cylinders it has or what configuration it is, I just want to see him tear down an engine that's old enough to qualify for AARP.
@@bradhaines3142 Or it's sat in a field for 56 years and is so rusted out that there's no hope of ever getting it to start again without tearing it to shreds anyway. That being said you do sometimes find these old cars with bluetooth conrods in them! Mortske Repair got his hands on an early-mid 50s Plymouth sedan with a flathead six in it that went kerbal. #6 rod decided it was done connecting and obliterated EVERYTHING around it. Both sides of the block, oil pan, even damaged the bellhousing. And one of his most recent videos is of a 1956 Chevy 210 sedan with a smallblock/3spd OD manual in it that got flood damaged decades ago. Smallblock Chevies are tough engines but when there's water sitting in the crankcase for decades and decades even they rust up solid....the whole driveline was toast in that car, not just the engine. Poor thing. The body is great and he only wants 2500 for it; if I had 2500 I would have bought it, swapped in a 250 I6, and made it a daily driver. That Plymouth engine had been hotrodded back in the day...the parts were old, crusty, dirty, corroded, but the engine still wore its hotrod go-fast goodies...and likely overrevved.
@@bradhaines3142 Gotta admit, though, the contrast of having such a vintage engine on the teardown bench against all the modern garbage he's ripping apart on a daily basis would make the video well worth watching. That's a large part of why I want to see a truly vintage engine on Eric's teardown bench; beyond my own fascination with seeing inside them the contrast on how we used to build them VS how we build them today is worthy of note. And.....well, seeing how the old engines blew up hasn't changed one bit if you look at all the yeeted rods from the modern engines he's torn down. Oil starvation is a universal killer.....
the oil filter cartridge slides onto a tube in the cartridge housing cap and should should slide right back out . In the manufacturing of the cartridge, a bead of glue is applied around the center opening on both ends to keep the element in a round shape. Evidentially the glue melted on the one end. As you tried to get the filter element out, you probably broke the tube loose from the cap because it looked like the filter element wiggled from side to side. That filter housing cap should not be used if that happens as some of the oil will bypass going through the filter element according to Toyota. Believe it or not, there is a repair kit for that, you don't have to buy the whole cap.
How far from Warrensburg is your shop? Gonna be out that way visiting my son thought we'd swing by. We watch all your vids and then talk about what you've found in them. Love your vids Eric, keep up the great content.
I'm going to pretend that it's 15 years ago and I'm watching this on a Saturday night drinking with my friends instead of the reality of having my own 2GR-FE kid hauler sitting in the driveway, watching this after putting said kiddos to sleep.
I have been watching your vq35, your mercedes,v12, your ls7, and now your toyota v6. I noticed you take a whiff almost every time you get that cover out. You definitely have the ability to report failures. Excellent presentation 👏
@@scslre the oil line to the vvti is NOT shared, it was metal originally on the rwd engines, otherwise they are very similar... bit easier access, at least the 3.5L ones you can replace the spark plugs without taking intake manifold off, and the port and direct injectors on 3.5L also keeps the carbon buildup from happening... you can still get the timing cover leak and the valve spring break on early models without the recall, but like most Toyota engines they recalled the stuff that would have ruined their reputation mostly.
So we've had a Kia V6, a Honda V6, and a Toyota V6. You need to do a Buick 3.8L v6. You know the one from the 90's and 2000's that went in Buick, Olds, Pontiacs. I think the Chevy 3.8L V6 is different, but would also be neat.
@@ischmidt Ours is a 2008. Nice ride still. Just had two wheel bearings replace and I changed all coils and plugs at 134K when we first got it. I've got the transmission jutter lugging in to OD, but I understand that is a common Toyota transmission thing. I keep it in 4 until above 60.
@@TechGorilla1987 Transmission issues are common on FWD Toyotas, especially those of that era. However, you may get lucky with a fluid and filter change.
@@spenserchalkley7013 This one is the AWD version. I have the filter and pan gasket on hand for a change. Finding the Toyota specific fluid local without going to a dealer is proving to be harder. I understand I need about 2 gallons for a pan drop/filter change.
Hi Eric, another great teardown, thanks for all the effort you go to. I have said this before, I have had a driver say, "Oh, is that a temperature gage!". It was pointing at the stop pin when I got to it. Ted from down under.
Can confirm, water pumps and rubber oil lines are very known issues. Done both on my 2gr in my Lexus. I’d suspect the water pump failed as well. The timing covers like to leak too, the seal around them was not the greatest from the factory. Great video!
You are totally correct on the timing cover. My 17 camry 2.5 had a leak at 50k miles and had to be fixed. Luckily, I had an extended warranty and saved myself 1300 bucks.
I love my Toyotas , but they do have a lot of failing water pumps. My tundra is getting a 200k service right now, timing belt and a new water pump. It’s a 2004 and my son had it for awhile and the water pump went out at 150k mikes and he kept driving it. Luckily , no engine damage and she is still going strong!
Watching this video made me sad. It was like seeing a very good friend at the funeral home in their casket.
I have an 07 Avalon. I absolutely love her. She had 24k miles on her when I bought her, today she has 92k miles. I'm a stickler for maintenance, oil and filter change every 3k miles, I also have the tires rotated with every oil change. Easier to keep track of that way. I love everything about the Avalon, smooth quiet ride, 30 mpg on the highway, and what surprised me most about the car is the power that engine delivers. It is so mild mannered putting around town, but if you stick your foot in it to pass another car, you can be doing 40 mph and she'll be spinning the tires as you pass, and by the time you get by you'll be doing 80-85 mph, and the sound of the engine is like a jet engine spooling up, it loves to scream. I don't know what the top speed is, I've had it up to 130 mph, and decided that was fast enough for me. Funny thing though, it feels like the faster you go in the Avalon, the more planted to the ground it feels. Older cars will start feeling light, and floaty at higher speeds. I think I'm different, I like to see the engine, hear it run, so I took the big plastic cover off. I plan on the Avalon being the last car I own, and when I'm to old to drive I'll pass her down in the family.
Put the cover back on, saw a video on youtube that showed most beauty covers are actually somewhat functional for cooling the engine slightly.
@jasonw9277 I discovered that the only thing the beauty cover is good for is providing a good place for mice to build a nest and chew on the wiring. That's happened twice to me. Since removing the beauty cover, I've not had any further rodent issue.
@@lindanelson8400 Happened to my friend's Buick 3800 before he bought it too
oil and filter change every 3k miles yep ( full )synthetic oil only has to be 25 % synthetic - 100 % synthetic is AMSOIL !
What kills them? Lack of an oil level sensor, lack of proper maintenance, not using the correct oil, not using the correct filter, cracked filter housing, upper Rocker oil, feed lines crack, and that's all I know of. I own one in my 2011 sienna and it's the most amazing V6 I've ever experienced in my life. The power and torque and good throttle response that's not too sensitive is what I enjoy about this Toyota engine.
What kills them is Toyota owners not knowing that their Toyota antifreeze needs to be changed every 30-50k miles! Antifreeze becomes acidic as it ages and will start damaging parts in the cooling system, but most car owners forget to have their cooling system serviced because Toyotas are known to be reliable.
Cheers to everyone watching an engine being disassembled on a Saturday night. We’re living the life ❤😊
I never miss it. I always end up learning something.
Sure better than network tv, this wasn't staged like pawnstars either!
It’s 06:30 on a Sunday morning here on my side of the world
It's the last video I watch before going to bed on Saturday night wouldn't miss it👌
S A TUR DAY NIGHT! 🔊🔊
I'm a computer programmer. I'm probably never going to tear an engine apart. I watch for your excellent storytelling and humor. I appreciate your upbeat attitude in every job. It's fascinating to see the various ways engines can fail, and to hear your thoughts about them. I have learned quite a lot by watching you do what you do. Just writing to let you know that you are reaching people with your work, your entertainment, and your positivity. Thank you for sharing with us :)
You can start disassembling stuff any time you want. I too work in IT. I’ve reconditioned 3 Dyson vacuum cleaners destined for landfill. Together new they were over $2k. The trick is to pull stuff apart without the intention of putting it back together so that when you have something you want to keep it’s not as daunting
I second this comment as a fellow computer programmer. These videos are so fun to watch
Hi, I’m also a programmer but like taking apart cars and trying to put them back together… if you can code you absolutely have the problem solving skills to diagnose and repair cars. Most of the time it’s just finding the missing semicolon in the engine bay.
If you WANT to: Find a ~2000s era SUV to learn on, they're cheap, the parts are cheap, it's not all programmed modules, and with the SUV you get a decent bit of room for most tasks. This all assumes you have space.. Avoid the 4.0SOHC though. 4.3 Vortec is easy to work on(the bellhousing is a bitch on the S10 Blazer.) Even if you blow up the engine(I did in my S10), that $3,000 is how many car payments toward a new vehicle that's no more capable? They'll deliver the engine right to your house and pick up the old one!
Social media content is 99% story telling.
Even a reliable strong engine is not immune to human disrespect and lack of care. Thanks Eric
mine has now over 300000 and it still runs very well and smooth !
Co-worker has one with 421xxx miles on his Camry, still squeals the tire leaving every Friday.
I’m at 378,000 close to 379,000 on my 1996 Toyota Camry V6 can’t say anything but a great engine. People just need to do their oil changes more often.
@@videospedrin07I doubt the lack of oil changes directly killed it. The low oil level and clogged oil galleries is what killed it. These engines like synthetic oil which some cheap oil change places still don’t use.
Number one rule of ANY engine, IMMEDIATELY pull over and turn it off if the overheating dummy light turns on. Don't even drive it 100 yards to a safer location, home, a shop, etc. Another tip is after shutting it off, turn the key to ACC and switch on the heater to pull away the heat. This will also allow the cooling fan(s) to come back on. Popping the hood is also a good idea. But, DON'T remove the radiator cap as it would cause serious burns. If you follow these tips, more than likely the engine will be fine. Had a Toyota Camry overheat after the water pump developed a leak. Did everything I just typed, and after replacing the water pump and coolant, still motoring with over 200k.
Great advice! I had a celica in 1986 which overheated on my way home from work, I pulled over, turned the heater on full and opened the bonnet (hood), I let it cool down, topped it up with water and drove it the last two miles home. The engine was rattling when it first overheated but by doing what I did I saved it. Changed the head gasket, timing tensioner (as it looked a bit worn) then drove it to the south of France and back, no excessive oil or water consumption, I was lucky, but at the age of 21 I'm surprised I had the foresight to do what I did. Thanks to Dad for showing me how to fix cars from an early age!
I pulled over as soon as I got an overtemp warning on my 2.0L EcoBoost while running TOTD two years ago. Didn't shut it off, though. Shut the A/C off, popped the hood, and let it idle (my thinking being to keep the coolant circulating and the fans running). A UOA showed no issues afterwards.
I'm still not sure why it happened; I can only assume that a coolant drain and fill I did the day before I left on the trip allowed some air into the system. Only coolant related issues since then was a minor T-stat housing leak and trans cooler line leak that were fixed together.
Depends if you know your shit or not. Heat on full blast does a very good job at diagnosing the exact issue. You have to act very fast though. A heat soaked cooling system will go supercritical in under 5 minutes. I slightly overheated my J35 a few times (multiple small issues, don't want to list it all) and full heat brought the temp back to normal in under a minute, even climbing a 15% hill for 10 miles after a long WOT pull!
I had a 84 Celica GT that overheated every day for months. 22RE didn't give a shit, I'd beat on it till the temp dropped again.
When my 95 Integra had developed a bad head gasket I would keep a close eye on the temperature gauge. It mostly stayed at normal operating temperatures if the radiator was topped off and traffic was moving. But there were a few times when it would start to overheat. I would then run the heater at full blast to buy me some time and I would immediately pull over where ever possible and shutdown the engine. I would then open the hood to help the heat radiate out more easily and I would top off the coolant jug. All it took was 10-20 minutes for the engine to cool down enough to continue. I ended up doing this a few times until I got it fixed. I still have the car to this day running fine with 276K miles. Knowing how to not only drive but to also operate an ICE engine makes a big difference on the longevity of a car.
My grandfather was a mechanic and his shop still stands 25 years after he left us. I respect him through all mechanics. thank you for doing what you do
I hope he left it to honest folks, not rip off mechanics. Sure it’s hard work, but thieving people who don’t earn much to keep up with regular tier 2 maintenance is way worse.
48 years of fixing cars, I really expected to see melted Bearings after seeing all the melted plastic…I’m just amazed that the bearings were in such good shape. Gotta hand it to Toyota.
Put that engine in your ranger and you'll be the coolest guy on the block :)
@@mikem9536I'd sooner put a flathead V-8 with Offy heads in a Ranger
Hand all their problems. Design back to Toyota bearings are not issue most vehicles with Low miles are going have decent bottom End 😅
"Toyotas were supposed to be reliable but I needed a new engine after only 60k miles. I cant believe i wasted 2 whole oil changes on it."
Lol
Ive got an 01 4cyl over 250k miles lol. Still ticking
@@demonknight796502 4runner with 368 still truckin
I had to clean out a 3.9 Dodge that went 86k on 1 oil change. We scrubbed the Quaker sludge out, I abrasive blasted the oil pump pickup screen, replaced the oil pump, and buttoned it back up. Filled it to the top with diesel fuel, drained it, put 5 quarts of diesel fuel and a quart of MMO in it, ran it until it was warm, drained it, filled it with oil and a new filter. Drove it around for a week, changed the oil, and handed the keys back. She made it another 100k, before it succumbed to the same fate. Delo 400 or shell Rotella is trusted in $40k engines for a reason, but people want to use puddzoil, quaker sludge, valvoline, castrol, ect.
It was the Blinker Fluid that did you in!
My 2gr just had the water pump replaced at 235K, did not overheat and is back for another 235k. It is an excellent engine.
Did u had any visible leak cuz I don't but my coolant has a real slow leak somewhere?
@@willpage79 Yes I did, it was leaking from the water pump. Not a lot at first, but gradually got worse. At first I could just smell it after turning off the engine. The heater inside also quit heating because no hot water was getting back to the heater core.
@@johng.7560 in mines I don't see no leaks and it's not overheating either ,I'm going to try to change the radiator cap and fill back up to see what happens
Fantastic engine. My 2008 Lexus gs350 had it rated at 303 hp. Sold it at almost 190k miles not one issue just regular maintenance.
Mine is at 133k rn same year and it's a masterpiece
During the video you mentioned the rubber section of the VVTi oil line toward the rear of the engine. That's one big flaw of this version of the 2GR-FE. A BIGGER design flaw was that this engine also rubber portions of the engine oil cooler pipes. Those 2 lines are located at the bottom front of the engine right next to a catalytic converter which gets very hot. My guess is that one of those rubber sections ruptured and if someone was driving 60 to 70 mph when that happened and did not pull over and turn off the engine soon enough, then good bye to this engine. Just a pinhole in one of the rubber lines would be enough to lose all 6 quarts of oil very quickly.
This happened to my wife while driving her 2011 Highlander a couple of years ago. Fortunately, she was driving in town, not very fast and pulled over and turned the engine off right after she saw the low oil pressure light come on. There was no damage to the engine...Toyota put the all metal oil cooler pipes on it and it's still running fine today. If these rubber oil cooler lines are not replaced, they will burst. Not if but when.
Shame on Toyota for not recalling both the rubber oil cooler pipes and the rubber VVTi oil line. They did issue Technical Service Bulletins for both but no full recalls. These 2 faults have and will kill these versions of this engine(mainly 2007-2011) prematurely. If these parts are replaced in time and the proper maintenance is performed, they can reach 300 to 400 thousand miles.
You freaked me the f*ck out and had to look into this so my car doesn't blow up lol there are certain models of the 2GR-FE that do not have these oil cooler lines. The Camry, Avalon, ES350 do not have an oil cooler line from factory. If anyone's wondering...But does have that cabbage VVTI oil line with the rubber section.
The vvti hose with the rubber section and the water pump are known failure points on older 2GRs. Both have been redesigned. There are plenty 2GRs out there with well over 300K miles and still going strong. With proper care you'll rebuild your driver's seat before the 2GR.
Thanks for sharing that. I heard that about the 2GRs (water pump failures). What year were they re-designed to address these issues?
how old do you think
@@kenbina2010 ish, for example my 07’ Avalon has the rubber.
Good points. Have a 2007 rav with the 2gr. Did the water pump preventatively at 140k. Now at 200k and the drivers seat just got a duct tape band-aid.
Also beware! Some models are equipped with a oil cooler. Newer versions of the 2GR-FE. Have the updated, all metal lines. However, The older versions of the 2GR-FE. Have a rubber section in them as well.
The 2GR in my 2008 RAV4 was still running strong at 310,000 miles when I sold it. It didn’t burn a drop of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. I drove it like I stole it from the day I bought it too.
Who in his right mind would change oil every 5000 miles ! Talk about polluting the Earth. I have a 2003 Mercedes C320 with 250000 miles on it, oil changes every 12 to 15 000 miles. Motor has never been opened! Motor issues....belt tensioner pulleys replaced, x 1 water pump at 200 000 miles with altenator new bearings and brushes
@@c-teamtrading9690The oil was recycled. My Camaro with no catalytic converters is for polluting the earth.🤟
@@c-teamtrading9690 I change my oil every 3000 miles, even though it is synthetic. 2009 Lexus is250 - 186k miles
@@c-teamtrading9690 thats why his shit ran for 300k miles.
Did you have the camshaft rattle when starting up when it got hot?
Some people don't deserve a 2GR-FE 🤨
yeah ppl they don't like baby sitting there care with monthly oil changes! "My toyota ran problem free , I only changed the oil every 2 months. Can buy another car from the cost of all the oil changes and let us not even talk about pollution impact from all the oil changes!
@@c-teamtrading96902 months? You're an inidiot
@@c-teamtrading9690what? 😂
Some housewives do not care, lol. All they care about is if their children are going to safely fit in the car and that the van starts every day. I can picture it now, the van was probably screaming for attention, but momma bear could not hear it over the three screaming children in the back seats! lol
Gently placing the failed water pump on the table, with a towel to protect it from any damage, had me rolling.
I know, it changes from the usual toss across the entire shop 🙂
@@liver.flush.maestro I'm sure he's been waiting for a visibly damaged water pump to show up on one of these cores for a while to set up this gem.
@@Thanatos2996 In any case was funny in deed 🙂
You gently placed it on the table, wrapped in a towel, as a sign of respect for a dead part?
Same. I was hoping he'd do something like that when he said it was bad. He didn't disappoint
Until almost a year ago, I owned a 2007 Toyota Sienna so seeing this engine was a bit of a treat I'm not going to lie. My own made it to about 226,000 miles before I had to get rid of it. It was needing some parts replaced which wasn't a huge deal. The problem was that said parts and the engine block were basically inseparable, and they weren't coming out/off without potentially damaging other things in the process of the removal so I sold it to a business similar to your own.
Your observation about the rubber hose being used for oil reminded me of a problem I had with my Sienna a number of years back. Twice in the space of twelve or eighteen months or so I had a hose fail that caused me to lose basically all my oil at once, which is great when you are doing 70mph on the highway at the time it happened (both times, ugh). The first time it happened the hose got replaced. The second time it happened a different shop did the work and they said that it was a known issue with that model of engine and that Toyota had since replaced it with a metal part. They did the replacement on mine and I never had that problem again.
Thank you as always for educating and entertaining us Eric, I hope you and yours are doing well.
I'm very familiar with that hose actually, it comes in every once in a while still, but I always end up having to use the stupidest combination of 1/4inch extensions and wobble joints, it's ridiculous. But yes, it did eventually get common enough for an improved part to be released lol
Same. Rubber line had a pin hole in it and was headed back home from a weekend trip on the freeway when “low oil pressure” flashes on the dash… luckily I coasted into a grocery store and limped it home after 4qts of oil later. Still running after almost no oil lol.
Heard about this issue recently and that was my first thought too seeing this. I'm swapping my oil cooler line to the metal part too. You think that could have happened here? I figured you'd see more oil starvation signs rather than overheating
Does anyone know if the first gen sienna (98-03) is plagued with this issue?
There was a huge recall in 2010 for the rubber hose to be replaced with a metal one. I have a 2007 Avalon and got mine replaced at the dealer in 2010.
Awesome. I work at the Toyota Casting plant in Troy Missouri. We casted those 2GR heads as well as the main engine bracket in the front of the motor. There should be a mark on the front and rear of the heads starting with letter ‘B’ followed by the casting die number. Casting date is scribed under the intake runners.
I agree, awesome engine and fun to see our parts after some run time..!!
Unless you give me a tour then it didn't happen. 😎👌🏻😄
Looks like proper chain to me, much thicker than most "bicycle" chains in most cars
"Simple timing system" is music to my ears. All designs should be this good.
It's always the person who sees it overheating, but they're 5 miles from the home and keep going anyway. We had an older lady, afraid of being stuck on the side of the road, overheated and melted her engine and wondered why she needed a new one.
That's why you never buy a used car from a woman.
@@honuswagner9348 or at least check it over first, and replace the brakes for sure
@@honuswagner9348 ****never buy a used car from anyone under 30 years old.****
When my 95 Integra had developed a bad head gasket at around 200k miles I would keep a close eye on the temperature gauge. It mostly stayed at normal operating temperatures if the radiator was topped off and traffic was moving. But there were a few times when it would start to overheat and I would immediately pull over where ever possible and shutdown the engine. I would then open the hood to help the heat radiate out more easily and I would top off the coolant jug. All it took was 10-15 minutes for the engine to cool down enough to continue. I ended up doing this a few times until I got it fixed. I still have the car to this day running fine with 276K miles. The driver/operator makes a big difference.
Can’t believe how decent the bearings looked after what happened. I’m impressed.
I can't believe the engine didn't lock up and bend a rod or too
2gr is known to have quality bearings
You maintain them PROPERLY that Toyota will run until you get tired of it 333,000 on mine. It’s been maintained
Ok salty cracker
I have 2 4Runners. I do 5k on mine (mostly highway) and my wife’s about every 2500-3000.
What makes that cam sub assemble so awesome is if something tears up a cam and bearing you can replace that part and NOT the whole cylinder head like most other cars!
Super uncommon for a cam and journal to get torn up. What is common is one more source of a potential leak...not a great design.
@@ryanbrown918 Well your just wrong . Best design in the industry .
My first 2GR was still purring at 240. My current is like factory new at 130! They really are bulletproof if properly taken care of. Like many others here, I’m amazed how it held up. Great video!
I am a Toyota tech, I replaced one of these recently in a 2014 Sienna with only 120,000 miles, pretty much perfectly maintained. A Cylinder 6 intake valve spring broke and blew it up. It’s rare but we’ve seen them drop valves, mostly on early 2GR FKS from 2016-17.
You lie. Toyotas are indestructible! Everyone knows this. If you buy a Toyota, it will last FOREVER. and never ever need any repairs EVER!!! Although I will say my 2017 Hyundai Elantra I bought new just turned 100.000 miles, and hasn't needed ANY repairs at all. Weird huh.
@@johnfranklin5277 The 1980 Celica and The 1982 "Corolla Tercel" Tell a different story.
@@johnfranklin5277 I have a couple GMC trucks with 250,000 miles and according to Toyota drivers , they are not supposed to do that . I better put Toyota emblems on them . I've over heated them and nothing like this has ever happened. Lets pretend Toyota's actually last longer . Its still not worth the price and lack of utility and extra fuel cost.
@@jasavakOk Karen..
Buy a new one and see how far it will last
I got my 2008 Rav4 about 8 months ago with 115,498 on it, I have it up to 129,000 now and I love everything about this engine!!! I ALWAYS replace my oil at less than 5,000 mile intervals as I have heard this is by far the best thing you can do to make it last. Unfortunately this is the gen with the VVT defect but I haven't had any issues with it yet and I plan on keeping it that way. I love my Toyota tho
I have seen a very similar failure of the intake manifold on a 2AR-FE back when I worked for Toyota. The vehicle (a Scion Tc) came in making a strange popping sound through the intake manifold and had an assortment of codes. Long story short, found out the vehicle had been over rev'd and quite a few of those roller rockers had fallen off due to valve float and on one particular cylinder, both exhaust rockers fell off, but the intake stayed. At the end of the combustion cycle, since the exhaust had no place to go with the valves not opening, as soon as the intake valves would open, all of the exhaust gases went up into the intake causing the pop sound and melting that intake runner.
I was a jet engine mechanic and an electrician in the USAF for years. A single DC valve that opens and closes is 10k. A titanium engine blade is around 60k.
Currently working at toyota,at my shop at least the 2gr-fe is basically the least common for any repairs, usually its the water pump that fails. Ive seen some VERY rare that have a oiling issue on the cam phasers, 99.9999999% of the time is cause by bad maintenance.
How common are the front timing cover leaks ? I hear those and the water pumps are really the only issues with this engine..
@@danielbriones6171 Not going to lie, fairly common.
I would say the Tacoma version the 2GR-FKS is more prone to leaking timing cover, it’s a pain in the ass to reseal too.
Is that mostly the older style "round" water pump, or does it also include the updated water pump as well? Thanks!
@@badonkadonkey16 The new style water pump is included as well, not as often but it’s pretty common. It’s usually never a low mileage thing, most common around 130-180k miles.
Currently have 2011 Toyota Sienna with the same engine, has 210k on it and still runs great.
I've got the 04 Sienna - 3.3 L - best vehicle I ever owned. Totally low maintenance costs, decent on gas.
@@Chris_de_S nice but not the same engine as this video though. My van now has 226k miles on it.
Reminds me of my very first week on my very first job out of high school. Bob's Auto Repair. As the new guy I had the "pleasure" of tearing down and cleaning a Buick 455 that a little old lady had grossly overheated and continued to run until it died. I can remember dry-retching every time a new part came off of that engine and tearing down the oil pump was almost more than I could bear. Why, why, why, people can you not understand the concept of an oil change? Keep 'em coming Eric! I'll be here every Saturday night. Cheers.
I just started to watch your channel. I like your style. No bullshit, just plain and simple adventures going through an unknown engine and explaining what you see. Sincere content without pushing a sponsor through my throat. Much appreciated. I wish you all the best and thank you for my enjoyment. Best, Job
Hurts my feelings seeing a 2gr tore up. I work at a Toyota factory that built the one that is in the Camry. The one in Kentucky. Great powertrain really...
I think the Ford 4.6 2v engine is a great engine as well, but I have one that's been windowed in my back yard. Given to me for 'science'. This one actually has a broken wrist pin in it!
The 2GR is an excellent engine, as are many of Toyota's engines. I like the UZ series V8s quite a bit.
@@silicon212 I've seen that failure on my friend's neighbor's Ford that was started and then revved very high straight away in the dead of winter with questionable maintenance.
I had this in my 2011 Toyota Rav4 v6 awd, I drive it 11,000 cross country at 65-115 mph , some drives for 15 hours straight, was 110 out some days, and the engine was rock solid, engine had 80,000 miles
So great to hear about ethics and your stance. As someone that might buy a used motor and replace my old one, thank you for not selling a known bad motor.
Hey Eric. Excellent tear down as always. The 2GR-FE are notorious for water pump leaks to the point Toyota made an updated version. The one in the video is the older circular pulley design. The updated design has a flower/clover leaf looking pulley, which has had less issues.
Yes but even the new ones have problems. Wouldn't be so bad except Toyota was idiotic in how much access they provided to the area.
Still watching. I was wondering if this one had the updated water pump or not.
@@mediocreman2 all engineers figure your either going to have hands the size of a newborn baby or will remove the entire engine for any repair.
@@Ghauster engineers get to go extra silly on Japanese engine accessibility
I still see a water pump leaking on these about every other week at my shop
25:04 that sound you hear is the bolts loosing their pre-tension. They are designed to be elongated quite a bit compared to regular bolts. It’s almost like having a super strong spring pulling the mating faces together. This helps with keeping things together where you have extreme vibration and thermal cycles.
The oil line with the rubber section on the valve cover is actually a super common failure point on these engines and Toyota does have an updated part number with a full metal line that they started using in the later model years but it will still bolt on to the older model years for whenever that line decides to leak.
When you oh-so-gently moved and tenderly placed the leaking water pump you'd never use in any circumstances like a priceless vase, I freakin' lost it. You're awesome.
As a tech that has seen these fail, it's always a water pump that dumps coolant. The temp gauge doesn't register that it's overheating (no coolant on the sensor to have an accurate temp reading) and they run until they melt. Fantastic engine overall though
So how low does the coolant have to get for this to happen?
OMG unreal...
Updated version better?
I have the same engine with 250,000 miles on it still running strong
What year?
Did a water pump on an 08 Avalon with the 2GR @130k miles, took about 4 hours and it was the first one I'd changed on a 2GR. Sold the car @225k and it's still on the road.
This is absolutely one of the best V-6 engines ever made. I remember when it came out in the Camry, it could actually give the Mustang GT a run for it’s money and actually pull on it on the highway. The only V-6 I’ve enjoyed owning more than the 2GR is the Honda J35, because VTEC crossover sounds in a minivan is f***ing hilarious.
@@TheRedc0met The J35 has VTEC.
You should try a Tuned Port 3.8L Buick engine. Or a suped up 4.3L. (V-6's)
Thanks man. I have this in my Sienna 2014. Enjoyed seeing you though teardown.
Great video. My 13 highlander has the same engine. Looks like this one was a little neglected. Mine has 130k miles and hope it lasts a long time. I do all maintenance on it, including 5k mile oil changes. Nice to actually see the entire engine outside the car. What a treat. Thanks.
5k is rediculous mate. Oil molecules take double to triple longer to break down than that
This was not necessarily because of lack oil changes, but mainly because of lack of coolant change (probably never at 180k miles).
Acidity in old coolant eats the steel head gasket sealant, sandwiched between two aluminum surfaces.
And that is what makes milkshake. Or burn off coolant, steaming the cylinders...
The reason for the relative "high price" is because its a populair engine swap into the MR2. Modern tech, huge power in stock form and the reliability make it a very sweet package.
Understandable but are there really that many mr2s out there?
I use to work at Toyota and I've seen so many of these engines. like you said they came in so many different vehicles. if I remember correctly the filter had plastic in the center as a "support" for the paper filter so if it got hot enough to melt the intake that most likely melted long before the intake
My father used to work for the forklift division of Toyota he would order A diamond white pearl Avalon every two years in 2005 he was one of the very first people to get the 2GFRE in the Avalon prior to that I think it was released in the Camry if I remember correctly so about 15,000 miles into the engine it was developing a lower end rod knock, Toyota flew three engineers out and told the dealer not to touch the engine cause They wanted to take my fathers engine back for some R&D well my dad and Toyota didn’t realize that they had a teenage driver borrowing my dad‘s company car and I sort of like to race people in an Avalon On Saturday night… needless to say I can say I played a hand in this entrance durability.
@@timbrown9731 That’s a funny story ! Honestly though you shouldn’t have been able to hurt that engine in 15000 miles drag racing a few nights a week . There probably really was something wrong with it or you sat it on valve float for hours on end.
@John DiMartino if he was drag racing it prior to break in then yes he most certainly did some premature damage. Plus you think a teen would wait until engine is at proper operating temp before banging it off the redline?
@@kenkozawa9810 I did.
@@timbrown9731 Wow I do that with my moms Highlander. Its pretty fun
I had the flu last week, so I went back to watch an older tear down video. When you have a fever and body aches the sound of breaking head bolts loose is awful.
Glad you are better. I have been sick too. I hate the flu.
143,000 trouble free miles on mine. Pretty versatile engine…good power, good fuel economy, unreal trouble free reliability. Not a single misfire, check engine light, zero oil consumption. 10,000 mile oil change intervals a majority of its life. Changed the plugs and serpentine belt at 120,000 miles. Original water pump and not a single leaking gasket. I’m impressed.
I have a question, I bought a 2012 rav4 v6 AWD with 95k miles. It is very fast and I drive it spirited daily. Is it safe to do so and I am afraid of it breaking down like transmission going out?
@@topo520I would probably keep up with the fluid changes on the transmission (if you haven’t already), but otherwise I feel as if they are very reliable. I don’t know just how spirited of driving you are actually doing…I don’t beat on mine but it’s often driven at speeds between 70-80 mph, and a few redlines a week. Zero issues.
@@doublebase6509 I have taken her up to 120mph and few drag races at stop lights. I put premium fuel only and she pull really hard.I changed oil every 5k miles and coolant because the heat here in Arizona is unbearable. Transmission fluid not yet. I will do that soon. Now at 103k miles
@@topo520 wow, I don’t think I’ve ever heard of someone tracking a RAV4. Haha! That’s pretty cool
@@doublebase6509 did I mention to you that I raced my friends charger 395 RT with the hemi V8 and I beat him till 80mph? Toyota Supra GR, Infiniti Q50, Range Rover, Toyota Camry, Nissan 350z, Mercedes E450, Nissan Armada v8, Mercedes GLE450, BMW 650 and many more and beat them all? I will do my plugs soon and it should be faster I am sure. The A/C is ice cold as well. I love it!
To see the torched cylinder wall , the melted knock sensors and intake manifold was unreal! Never seen that before. Would give almost anything to know exactly how hot that engine got. Great video man
Water pump is not easy at all with that engine on a rav4. Mine didn’t leak but bearings were shot. You have to support the engine, remove the engine mount and raise the engine to try and fit your hands and tools between the engine and unibody “frame rail”. Dealership had quoted me at $1,300
I have an rx450h with the 2gr-fxs and although not exactly the engine you've torn down, it's almost the same and I'm fascinated to see this engine in it's component state, very therapeutic to watch!
I spent the first 20 years of my life driving tractors, trucks and combines. You learned to bloody watch the gauges. Several times I have avoided disaster in cars because something told me look at the temperature. I am guessing I had subconsciously noticed a variation due to the long time of consciously checking. Dipstick and temperature gauge saves a lot of money.
16:30 kinda wished the companies who made engine stands also made drain pans that fit around and over the stand itself. Basically covering the orange bottom section so that even less mess would be made from jobs like this
You might be on to something here
Get a patient on this before someone else does lol
First
You should be wearing safety glasses, but you already know that…. Right?
….
I have experience with these engines 2GR-FE, they had inherent design flaws.
1- Poor head gaskets, in the early models, a very common and very expensive failure, as these engines were not designed to be serviced “in Frame”, worse getting the engine cradle bolts out requires quite a bit of work, because they were not properly protected, and they rust in place. It required a map gas gun and plenty of PB blaster to get all of mine out. The struggle went on for two days. Caught my blown gasket early, so the engine could be repaired. It’s running today
2- A poorly designed VVT oil tube, which was made of metal and rubber tubing (Right side head or for transverse, Back Cylinder Head, seen in the video) The rubber tube would rupture, and within seconds the engine oil would be pumped out of the ruptured hose. Toyota later replaced the hose with an all metal hose assembly.
My wife is a 100 pound Filipina. Whenever your videos come on I tell her that her favorite video is up. She glares at me and says "I can't even understand what he's doing (and then makes impact noises) then walks away 😂
Hell yeah brother
Spinner
I have a 2GR-FE and do all of my own maintenance (in the past, I've rebuilt Toyota engines and transmissions among other things-I'm an experience mechanic). I know a little bit about the 2GR though I have not had to do any thing major to mine.
.
Your ratchet should have removed only the small drain plug on the bottom of filter housing, but I noticed that you unscrewed the entire housing. This only happens if someone over-tightens the drain plug. The housing usually requires a large diameter adapter tool that is larger in diameter than the oil filter housing itself. and it engages with external lugs on the housing to unscrew it.
Additionally, the oil filter was fused to a spring loaded metal tube that is part of the filter housing. As you said in the video, the filter melted. This engine massively overheated.
This 2GR-FE is pre-2009. The VVT-i oil lines that go from the heads to the valve covers were upgraded to 100% steel (no rubber section in the middle of the line) in the 2009 and later 2GR-FE, as Toyota discovered that the rubber can fail, causing the engine to lose all oil and oil pressure. This particular 2GR-FE managed to make it to 180K miles without blowing this oil hose (surprising).
The small amount of pink coolant dried around the weep hole of the water pump is actually normal. Toyota has a TSB that says a small amount of dried coolant is normal. The TSB goes on to say that a massive amount of dried coolant or wet coolant/active leak at the weep hole requires replacement of the water pump.
As for what happened to this particular 2GR, it looks like it was run very low on coolant. When filling the 2GR-FE with coolant, there is a very specific procedure that must be followed to get rid of all air (burp the system). Car Car Nut on YT has a video on how to do this.
The straight six in the old 280z was the best motor Japan ever produced.i pulled one with 200,000 miles to put a 383 stroker in an old z.I sold the straight six to a guy in town to put in his z and he drove it for another couple hundred thousand miles and sold it still running good.id love to see twin turbos on the old Datsun/Nissan straight six.
JDM Nissan Skyline came with dual turbos. Very fun to drive.
@@suzi_mai I'm just surprised we don't see more of those six cylinders at the track with nitrous and stuff I bet you could get a solid 1000 HP out of one relatively easy and I bet would stay together without a lot done to the bottom end.
Maybe they're scarce or something I the guy I sold the one I had to was happy to get it.would certainly be a solid platform to start with
I’ve only ever seen one of these 2grs fail. At 205k miles the original water pump failed on the owner 600 miles from home. They had a “Toyota” shop replace the pump, but that shop never properly bled the cooling system of the air. So the large air pocket trapped in the rear cylinder head ruined that engine on the remaining 600 miles home. Wild thing was, the car ran smooth as glass with a blown head gasket and the temp gauge almost pegged.
Your battle with the oil filter made my day. This happened to me during a recent service on my own car and I became unecessarily angry with it.
best timing system design ive seen so far
It amazes me how mechanics like this know EVERY part of a vehicle. It’s mind blowing.
Had a Toyota V8 3UR-FE that got so hot, it not only melted the intake and knock sensors, but a couple of the valve seats dropped as well, it’s crazy how hot engines get without people realizing it
Whenever I’m researching a car, I see if Eric has torn down one of its engines. Been waiting for this one for a long time.
I ENJOYED WATCHING YOU TEAR THIS ONE DOWN TO BAD THAT BLOCK WAS BAD.
Honestly the only thing wrong with most toyota made engines is their owners.
That's what us dedicated MOPAR owners say. Most Dodge's live with abusive owners. All that technology for in the end, just a fancy OHV engine. " Mechanical complication increases the possibility of mechanical failure"😂
2GR is the LS of the Toyota tuner crowd. I have one in my 91 Toyota MR2. It was lighter than the cast iron 4 banger I took out.
The only bad thing is bad maintenance. They have some oil cooler lines that get brittle and crack and lets out all of the oil (there is an upgraded part for that). They also tend to have a mysterious oil leak that no one figures out, but its actually from the timing cover.
P. S. The engine has to come off the car to reseal the timing cover. Big dollar job.
Honestly in all my years working on them I never bother telling the customer they need to fix that leak cause they're never really bad imo
I've never seen one dripping off the engine, just oily
@@Jack-qn4vt im no toyota tech but ive heard the stories. There are some that are quite subtantial. The chrysler pentastars also have this issue, but its very easy to fix. Lots of room (especially on grand cherokees and Durangos) and the rams with that engine. And engine stays in the car.
@dboatrig Literally the same thing happened to me on my wife's RX350. The rubber oil line had a micro-crack and it sprayed a thin trail of oil all the way downtown. I caught it microseconds from running dry. When I pulled the dipstick it was bare, added 3 litres of oil and it came back up and ran perfect. I switched that oil line and it's been perfect since.
These engines deficient oil cooler lines, timing cover leaks and dodgy water pumps are design fails.
@@petesmitt easily fixable. No machine is perfect. Although certain things are just not saveable. Like a Ford 6.4 or a 5.4 3V, or a GM 3.6 lol.
My mom's 2009 sienna with the 2gr has 315k ish miles that fucker still runs like it's new. I've put cams and rings in it at around 250k ish. But man that van has been so good to us. It's been everywhere and she still drives it daily
Neat! I think I requested this. I just pulled one for an Mr2 swap. Gonna be fun!
Maybe the Lotus relation has some bearing on price?
you're putting this v6 in an mr2? that's going to be awesome.
Shamelessly putting it in an original Turbo 94. Less than 200 in the country. The 3sgte will be refreshed and cleaned to look like a showroom piece - a very expensive decoration.
Even more blasphemous is that I have an m54b30 waiting to go into my 83 Celica Supra. I'm going to treat the current 5mge to some new rod bearings and head studs before turboing it, and slowly rebuild the BMW motor with forged everything - find a newer ZF 6 speed or even the earlier close ratio/non-OD 5 speed - with a final dream build actually using BMW AWD. it may take a decade, but it will be fun as hell.
Eric, I enjoy your channel! I learn a lot. Retired automotive engineer who worked in Germany. Experienced mechanic prior to college. I worked in my Dad's shop and ran it as his health began to fail.
I love the fact you have a thick skin, so many on RUclips take their toys and go home if you criticize the Eurotrash they tend to buy for their Yuppie wives.
You do damn good work!
I'm so glad to see safety tote back. Safety tote has to be one of your most important tools in the shop. Great video, as always , buddy 👍 👏
He should get a clear safety tote for better visibility
First thought was front coolant leak after you mentioned overheat. Have had three on our 135k Sienna, incl a Gates pump that only lasted 50k miles, a brand new tstat gasket that failed to seal, and the silly o-ring on the bypass line which shouldn't be reused. The water inlet gasket is super easy to pinch doing it in-frame. Factory procedure is to drop the motor for the water pump, unnecessary.. I've done it twice, though the comically long torque mount bolts are frustrating. Interesting to see the spark plugs come out so easily, mine were galled pretty good.
You saying Gates water pumps are no good to use??? Use the OEM part instead only.
I know you did a 3.5vq before, but I would love to see another one that wasn’t in an accident that destroyed it but rather one that self imploded
I know I’m dying to see a vq37 tear down.
@@NotAdamSnider same here
not entirely the same but he did do a tear down of the 3.0 tt v6 in the infinitis! to keep yourself tame until the time for a vq37 comes lol
Hard to find those, blowing head gaskets on a DE is 'difficult' and it's otherwise bulletproof. Racers blow them, because racer reasons. I have an HR and a '13 VHR in the driveway, I'm waiting those out like a hawk.
@@jacquesc3166 I have a vhr as well, but surely there has to be some out there with 200,000 plus miles that have just worn out
Dude your commentary is excellent and makes watching your clips enjoyable , hi from Australia .
Goodwill is hard to recover, once lost, props to your business ethics Eric.
Atlanta Flames.
Holy balls......been a long time since i've seen that logo.
Yes I agree.
“The man who tells the truth doesn’t have to remember what he said.” Will Rogers
Hello, Thank you for providing such a comprehensive survey of these engines.
I live in the UK and I've noticed how people don't maintain their engines, I check my oil, coolant and screen wash every Sunday.
I have a Ford Fusion, now this is based on the Fiesta, its a 1.6 duratech engine, I find that the garages are not very good when they do a service, I've had a bad experience, when the car was in for it 195 mile service, they garage incorrectly screwed on the oil filter and consequently the filter blew and bust whilst I was driving on the motorway which blew the engine, so I called the garage and demanded they replaced the engine.
I visited the garage they day after I returned the car and they had ordered a 1.4, I told them that it was a 1.6, They didn't believe me and asked me for the registration number which confirmed it was a 1.6, so they sourced an engine from Ford fusion which had a automatic gearbox, so now the car throws up a engine management light, so now, I've given up letting a garage do my servicing, the car has now done nearly 290, 000 miles, I asked another garage to replace the Campbeltown, which was done, they replaced the water pump, power steering and alternator belts and a week later, I heard a squeaking from the engine bay, looked down and the alternator belt is damaged, that's why I don't have any confidence with garages.
Brilliant programmes.
Thank you
Ian Burns
Watching these videos always makes me want to go and change my oil
Yea, you always were good about reading comments. I think we all appreciate that.
You should make a t-shirt with “Bad Motor” in that font. Epic!
Thanks for the video. Have on of these in my 07 Camry has 230 k on it. If you do basic maintenance on this you will get sick of the car before the engine gives up… great engine . Just change the oil and of course don’t let it over heat…
2gr-fe Car Care Nut said it’s Achilles heel is timing cover leak, and extremely sensitive to low oil pressure other than that, upgrade the oil cooler to rear VVT-I bank and upgrade the VVT-I gears those with pre 2010 and it’s a wonderful engine. Mine has 262,000 no leak no problem and Im also maintaining a 5vz-fe and 1mz-fe.
Mine has timing cover "seep," not enough to show drips underneath the engine. Dealer wanted to drop the engine to fix it. It's 50,000 miles later and it still seeps.
My father drove a 2011 sienna up until 2 years ago and loved it. Only thing he ever did to it was shocks after it got stolen and then nearly blew em out. Engine was reliable, but I love seeing the full tear down of this thing and seeing what failed.
Was it the V6 or the 4-cylinder?
How many miles? V6?
Thank you for being one of the few honest business men around 😀
I work at Toyota, not for long at the moment but I do know these have water pump issues, sometimes the oil crossover line on the rear bank can burst, but that was a big recall so I doubt they're still doing that, or the oil cooler line in the older highlanders would rupture. Aside from that I'm not aware of any more issues, but I'm searching the comments for more!
When are we going to see a Northstar tear-down? I’d like to see an early production version and then a 2005 or later to see the “fix…”
same, just to see what Eric thinks of it. I head studded my 1999 Northstar so I kinda know what it looks like
@@MowerModdin I'd absolutely love to see Eric tear down some sort of flathead car engine. AT this point I don't care how many cylinders it has or what configuration it is, I just want to see him tear down an engine that's old enough to qualify for AARP.
@@TestECull anything that old is going to be a collectors item unless it has some after market inspection windows
@@bradhaines3142 Or it's sat in a field for 56 years and is so rusted out that there's no hope of ever getting it to start again without tearing it to shreds anyway. That being said you do sometimes find these old cars with bluetooth conrods in them! Mortske Repair got his hands on an early-mid 50s Plymouth sedan with a flathead six in it that went kerbal. #6 rod decided it was done connecting and obliterated EVERYTHING around it. Both sides of the block, oil pan, even damaged the bellhousing. And one of his most recent videos is of a 1956 Chevy 210 sedan with a smallblock/3spd OD manual in it that got flood damaged decades ago. Smallblock Chevies are tough engines but when there's water sitting in the crankcase for decades and decades even they rust up solid....the whole driveline was toast in that car, not just the engine. Poor thing. The body is great and he only wants 2500 for it; if I had 2500 I would have bought it, swapped in a 250 I6, and made it a daily driver.
That Plymouth engine had been hotrodded back in the day...the parts were old, crusty, dirty, corroded, but the engine still wore its hotrod go-fast goodies...and likely overrevved.
@@bradhaines3142 Gotta admit, though, the contrast of having such a vintage engine on the teardown bench against all the modern garbage he's ripping apart on a daily basis would make the video well worth watching. That's a large part of why I want to see a truly vintage engine on Eric's teardown bench; beyond my own fascination with seeing inside them the contrast on how we used to build them VS how we build them today is worthy of note. And.....well, seeing how the old engines blew up hasn't changed one bit if you look at all the yeeted rods from the modern engines he's torn down. Oil starvation is a universal killer.....
I've seen melted intakes before. All we're from customers ignoring the temp gauge/warning lights and just kept driving until the engine stopped.
the oil filter cartridge slides onto a tube in the cartridge housing cap and should should slide right back out . In the manufacturing of the cartridge, a bead of glue is applied around the center opening on both ends to keep the element in a round shape. Evidentially the glue melted on the one end. As you tried to get the filter element out, you probably broke the tube loose from the cap because it looked like the filter element wiggled from side to side. That filter housing cap should not be used if that happens as some of the oil will bypass going through the filter element according to Toyota. Believe it or not, there is a repair kit for that, you don't have to buy the whole cap.
How far from Warrensburg is your shop? Gonna be out that way visiting my son thought we'd swing by. We watch all your vids and then talk about what you've found in them. Love your vids Eric, keep up the great content.
I'm going to pretend that it's 15 years ago and I'm watching this on a Saturday night drinking with my friends instead of the reality of having my own 2GR-FE kid hauler sitting in the driveway, watching this after putting said kiddos to sleep.
I have been watching your vq35, your mercedes,v12, your ls7, and now your toyota v6. I noticed you take a whiff almost every time you get that cover out. You definitely have the ability to report failures. Excellent presentation 👏
Think you can get a 2GR-FSE (the direct injection one from the Lexus rear-drive sedans)?
i have one in my mark x! i wonder how many problems the "fse" shares with the "fe".
I have one of those in my IS350 F-Sport. It's a good little engine for daily duties.
@@scslre How many miles/km on yours? I've found mine to be pretty reliable. Keep it serviced and it just keeps going. Mine's 100% stock.
@@scslre the oil line to the vvti is NOT shared, it was metal originally on the rwd engines, otherwise they are very similar... bit easier access, at least the 3.5L ones you can replace the spark plugs without taking intake manifold off, and the port and direct injectors on 3.5L also keeps the carbon buildup from happening... you can still get the timing cover leak and the valve spring break on early models without the recall, but like most Toyota engines they recalled the stuff that would have ruined their reputation mostly.
So we've had a Kia V6, a Honda V6, and a Toyota V6. You need to do a Buick 3.8L v6. You know the one from the 90's and 2000's that went in Buick, Olds, Pontiacs. I think the Chevy 3.8L V6 is different, but would also be neat.
Is this the one that is in my RX350? I have been REALLY waiting to see this one. Ours is about 250K now.
Yes, this is in fact the engine in an RX350.
2007-2014 RX350s use this engine and 2015-2021s use the updated (but very similar) 2GR-FKS.
@@ischmidt Ours is a 2008. Nice ride still. Just had two wheel bearings replace and I changed all coils and plugs at 134K when we first got it. I've got the transmission jutter lugging in to OD, but I understand that is a common Toyota transmission thing. I keep it in 4 until above 60.
@@TechGorilla1987 Transmission issues are common on FWD Toyotas, especially those of that era. However, you may get lucky with a fluid and filter change.
@@spenserchalkley7013 This one is the AWD version. I have the filter and pan gasket on hand for a change. Finding the Toyota specific fluid local without going to a dealer is proving to be harder. I understand I need about 2 gallons for a pan drop/filter change.
Hi Eric, another great teardown, thanks for all the effort you go to. I have said this before, I have had a driver say, "Oh, is that a temperature gage!". It was pointing at the stop pin when I got to it. Ted from down under.
Can confirm, water pumps and rubber oil lines are very known issues. Done both on my 2gr in my Lexus. I’d suspect the water pump failed as well. The timing covers like to leak too, the seal around them was not the greatest from the factory. Great video!
You are totally correct on the timing cover. My 17 camry 2.5 had a leak at 50k miles and had to be fixed. Luckily, I had an extended warranty and saved myself 1300 bucks.
I love my Toyotas , but they do have a lot of failing water pumps. My tundra is getting a 200k service right now, timing belt and a new water pump. It’s a 2004 and my son had it for awhile and the water pump went out at 150k mikes and he kept driving it. Luckily , no engine damage and she is still going strong!