Thanks for your comment. Powered impact tools definitely saves a lot on time, effort and aggravation. Can't imagine doing these types of jobs without them.
Just completed all 4 mounts. To get the front mount out of the engine compartment, I removed the transmission line inlet from the radiator. Took about 2 hrs total. Thanks again for the excellent video!!!!
The very best automotive do it yourself video I have ever seen on You Tube and the internet... This guy deserves a standing ovation... Perhaps a vacation to Maui... I wish this guy was close to me. I need a new best friend... Thank you very much for this fantastic, informative very detailed no nonsense video ever...
Thank you so much I just replaced all mines and I did it by myself! Your video was a lot of help... I wish I had some power tools to make it easier and faster but I still got it done.
Great demonstration. Slowed down on key points and fast forward on quick easy areas to avoid complications. Thanks again for helping everyone out. I know it did to me 👍
The amount of information and how detailed you showed everything on the angling of the camera was amazing bro you definitely earned my sub! I love your content keep it up 🔥
I had to replace the control arms on an 06 solara following your videos and the mounts took the longest to accomplish because of the lower clearance on the solara. The solution that worked was to lower the subframe some while jacking up the pan. Took me 2 days to accomplish this for the first time but now I learned something. Thanks again for your videos.
Thanks for putting this video together. It's clear enough to do the job. Just a couple of minor comments. It appears the torque strut you replaced was not original. The original torque strut should have had rubber covers on the front-most part of the strut. For those who are replacing this part, you should put the two covers from the original strut onto your replacement strut since they serve as a damper for the strut. If you don't, at times when the strut twists, it will hit against the metal mounting bracket. Those covers will ensure the metal-to-metal rubbing doesn't happen. Lastly, providing the torque specs would have been helpful. Overall though, this is a very helpful video. So, thanks again.
I was just looking to understand what these things are. Your video and the explanation was very good. Thanks for taking time to make this video and share it with all.
Great Video, nice camera angles. no wife in the background telling u dinner is ready, LOL, kids not poking u in the back for your attention,Lol, all kidding aside this video was very helpful. U made it look easy my friend great job!!
you made this look so easy jefe! thanks for showing us the short cut! Pretty amazing how you can save so much time doing this job! Thanks for sharing! I subbed!
Wow. One of the best videos on here. Straight to the point. Right tools and techniques makes the job go so smooth. I have bad luck with cars. So it will be a week long project for me. Lol.
Video made changing my mounts a breeze. The one thing that I couldn't understand tho. Is the driver side tranny mount that has the little pin that slides into the transmission. My part has the pin on the opposite side? How do you fix this problem? Wrong mount? I just changed them all except for that one. But I couldn't belive it.
The front motor mount takes the most stress. With the hood open and the engine running, have someone observe the engine (looking at it from the side of the car). Place the transmission in drive, use your left foot to apply the brakes (also use the parking brakes) and rev the engine with your right foot. If your partner sees the engine tilting up a lot during the rev up, the front mount is considered shot. It's normal for it to tilt a little but not a lot. If the front mount is really bad, the sides are probably stressed out as well to compensate for the worn out front mount.
@@dankam830 OEM is a nice-to-have with a limited warranty period ... MOOG, on the other hand, gives you a lifetime warranty on most parts. Also, you can consider buying from GM's parts supplier to get a cheaper price (i.e. AC Delco ... they provide a lifetime warranty to the original owner of the part).
7:38😏 Excellent video that applies to 4 cyl Highlander. Learning: 1. front mount is different, like a bell curve with a wheel in it. Remove plastic shielding underneath mount (expect some bolts to shear off); use 14mm deep hex socket to break 2 bottom nuts (anything else will break or be too shallow) or quality offset. 2. toyota scissor jack on 2 bricks placed on housing behind trans pan makes driver's side mount removal easy without removing top stud, 3. if like me you do the control arm, a little lift from a jack with plywood under the rotor helps create space to align it, 4. it took 6 hrs with no power tools in 90 deg heat with breaks for water and to be thankful.
I done this job many times but I think you did better job than me good job boy only your forget torque but you don’t need to torque because you know what you doing for the new people need to know the torque
@2:35 would you happen to know what the bolt size is for the motor mount bracket? The previous owner got into a wreck and the guy that sold it to me didn't tell me about it and patched it up with JB weld. Now I have to swap out the upper oil pan...
@@IBO8Jaeger Using a wide wood block between the engine oil pan and the hydraulic jack distributes the support tension to prevent the pan from damage and bending inwards.
Just to confirm because i dont want to screw up. You are placing a jack underneath the transmission pan to slightly raise the engine up when replacing the driver side mount correct?
Would a bad mount be the cause of the car bucking during acceleration? IF so which mount is the cause? No check engine light and all plugs n coils are good. please lmk...ty!
Any tips on how to remove the stud off the engine mount? The replacements do not come with new studs, unfortunately. I tried to PB blast it but it won't come out and I don't want to damage the threads
@@hardlymovingpro just returned the replacements and I got 5 new Toyota OEM mounts. The Venzas also have a 5th rear mount. I am going to attempt this week
hey brother, where exactly do you place the wooden block under? looks like oil pan, but i doubt you'd put it right under the oil pan. can you explain? thank you
@@hardlymovingpro I figured it out luckily. There was just some rust I needed to let break down. Thank you for your videos they have saved me alot of money
Thanks for the video. Where do you get the bolt use to guide the engine hole when you put the new mount in and lower the engine. What it the size of the bolt. Thanks.
If you're referring to the front mount (by the radiator), keep the lower mount's studs loose while slowly lowering the engine onto the new mount. When low enough, screw in the upper mount's bolt then let the engine completely rest on the mount and tighten everything up.
Does this car have a vaccine hose that was attached to the front mount? I' need to replace them on my rx330 and looks like something is tied into it or am I crazy?
Most jobs can be done if you have some background working with tools. My problem is I live in a condo and don’t have the room. Great to have a garage. Good job
WOW! 1 1/2 minutes in an I am all ready impressed! Sweeet move, taking off the wheels to reveal a clearer angle to that 1st mount. Definitely working "Smarter, not Harder". I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT 1.8 and could sure use some help. Not against doing the work myself, just need some mentor-ship from someone I can trust. Thank you so much for posting this. I am willing to pay you for a "consultation". Is there any way I could talk with you? .
About to tackle this job. I have an 02 camry and they all need to be replaced. Oem parts seem pretty steep and im wondering what your thoughts are on aftermarkets mounts and any good alternative to oem toyota? Can i get away with aftermarket on any of the mounts? Are any crucial to keep oem?
Yes and no. Depends on the vendor. If its a no name brand made in China, it's a crap shoot. Anchor, Westar and DEA, API, Beck/Arnley and SKP are reputable brands.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you, another question, I feel transmission mount is not as easy broken as front/right engine mount. Am I right? Just realize this is your RUclips channel. I read your car repair blog many years ago.
@@liyangtime My car repair blog at hubpages.com or axleaddict I assume? To top right mount (also call torque rod) will be under a lot of stress if the front engine mount is worn. So yes, replacing the front mount will but less stress on the top right mount.
Don't think so. The front mount should be the same. But believe the transmission mount is the old design and the right passenger doesn't exist except for the top torque rod. Also the old version has a rear mount (which compensates for the the lack of a right mount?). Believe when Toyota went with the 3.3L with a chassis design change, they deleted the rear and but made the hefty right and left side mounts.
Nice video as usual!! I noticed that you tightened the passenger side mount after replacing before working on the driver side. When you lift the transmission to replace driver side mount, could this stress the new mount on passenger side since that side gets lifted as well? Obviously you would not do this unless it is safe but I am just wondering.
Thanks! The angle of lift on the driver's side mount shouldn't disturb the passenger side; but if you want to play it safe, you can keep all the new mounts loose until they're all in and ready to be torqued down.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply!! The passenger side mount is so far away I guess it should have minimal effect. Just wanted to hear from an experienced mechanic.
@@hardlymovingpro I have one more question if you do not mind. I have problem lifting up the engine high enough to remove the mount because my jack does not go up high enough. What if I unscrew the stud using vice grip to remove it? Would that be possible in your opinion?
The factory stud in the mount may be difficult to twist out with vice grips. Two things you can do: 1. place a large wood block between the jack and transmission or engine oil pan. 2. Saw off (sawzall) the top exposed portion of the stud to shorten it or the bottom portion of the exposed stud.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply! I was thinking about cutting the stud off with oscillating tool that I have also if loosening with vice grip does not work. Since you suggested, I now have more confidence in the idea to cut the stud. I will try this. Thanks again. Appreciate it!!
Could you please tell me where to support the wood block to lift the engine if you can point in the camry that will be helpful hope it’s not the tran pan
This is amazing! I have replaced my all four mounts. However, my aftermarket parts(TRQ) makes vibration even stronger. is anchor part reliable? I think that i have to go through all of this again. Haha i am still thinking genuine parts vs anchor part that you used. If anchor is good enough and reliable(at least remove vibration after installation), i will go with anchor part
Anchor is a good aftermarket brand that's a reasonable alternative to OEM Toyota. Is the vibration at idle or when moving? Could be out-of-balance wheels, damaged CV axles or wheel hub bearings.
@@hardlymovingpro it idles like crazy when idling with Drive or Reverse mode. Some folks from forum says that some aftermarket parts are so rigid so it could potentially result in vibration 🧐
@@hardlymovingpro i feel that Toyota part suppliers dont sell their part as OE unlike BMW. I have BMW and many part supplier sells identical genuine part with less than half price than Genuine part 🥲
Place a wood block of equal or greater dimension of the base of the oil pan ... then position the hydraulic jack in the middle of the wood block to support the engine.
@@hardlymovingpro I have the same question. I can see that you placed the wood block under the engine oil pan. Are there other places, because I am scared to place the jack under the oil or transmission pan. The metal of both pans are so thing that I am afraid the pan might be at least bent , if not broken. I have replaced the ATF filter a dozens of time and know how fragile is the pan . Can not imagine how it could support the weight of the engine. I need to rise the engine 1-2 inches to get access to the one transmission 10 mm bolt that is blocked by sub-frame in lexus rx 350. I am ready for the job, only one thing keeps me holding - the right and save spot for the jack to lift a bit the engine and transmission block. I will appreciate your answer. Other than that your video is amazing. Everything is clear and focused . One of the best video for the job. Thank you.
@@stanislav9608 the point is to avoid placing force on one focal point on the pan. A wood block distributes the lifting force to prevent the pan from bending inward
Again sir you are awesome and thank you! A question though, where are the jackpoints on the passenger and driver side? I see some lifting the engine or trans on the oil pan or trans pan but I think you are jacking on different points. I think I missed where you put the wood blocks on. Thanks.
The best points to install the jack stands is on the rail that runs along both side of the car's chassis. The lifting of the engine and transmission via the oil pans is to tilt the engine or trans high enough to remove the mounts.
This is probably the most straight to the point video I have ever seen on RUclips
Thanks and appreciate your comment!
I also enjoyed it!
😊
Forget all those other videos about motor mounts this is the only one we need thank you guys.
Appreciate your post and comment!
How did go did it work?
You made it look so easy. I think everything is easier when you have the right tools and knowledge. Thanks
Thanks for your comment. Powered impact tools definitely saves a lot on time, effort and aggravation. Can't imagine doing these types of jobs without them.
Looks can be deceiving lol
Q
Eddie you can do this as well. If you have the tools and space it’s not that hard.
It is easy, just keeping going. 😊
Great job..very professional and to the point. I'm glad to see people like you are helping hard working folks save a few bucks.
Thanks 👍Yes...trying to help people save!
Bro u are a g, no bs talking about some unrelevant crap like these other guys do, just to the point in and out easy.
Thanks!
Just completed all 4 mounts. To get the front mount out of the engine compartment, I removed the transmission line inlet from the radiator. Took about 2 hrs total. Thanks again for the excellent video!!!!
2 hours? Good job and 👏 congrats!
The very best automotive do it yourself video I have ever seen on You Tube and the internet... This guy deserves a standing ovation... Perhaps a vacation to Maui... I wish this guy was close to me. I need a new best friend... Thank you very much for this fantastic, informative very detailed no nonsense video ever...
Thanks and appreciate your accolades! 😃
This makes so much sense. I was stupid enough to try to do 1 at a time and it was a nightmare!!!! Great work and procedure!
Thanks!
This was the best car repair video I have ever seen. Everything you need to know and no B's! Great job!!!
Thanks 👍
Thank you so much I just replaced all mines and I did it by myself! Your video was a lot of help... I wish I had some power tools to make it easier and faster but I still got it done.
Good for you and glad it worked out for you!
Nice man how long did it take you? I think I have to go through this my self
Great demonstration. Slowed down on key points and fast forward on quick easy areas to avoid complications. Thanks again for helping everyone out. I know it did to me 👍
Thanks for you comments and support!
Best DIY video EVER! This is how you do it folks!
Glad you liked it!
The amount of information and how detailed you showed everything on the angling of the camera was amazing bro you definitely earned my sub! I love your content keep it up 🔥
Glad you enjoyed!
Kudos for getting right to it, and not spending five or ten minutes blabbing about what's ahead.
Thanks! Like to keep it short and simple.
Okay the jack with the block of wood on it was pretty damn slick, man. I was expecting a chainfall and all kinds of stuff but WOW.
Easy solution when solution when dealing with cheapo hydraulic jack
He’s learned from the best lol Every mechanic does this 😊 When a lift isn’t available, they do the work on the ground and use this method.
I had to replace the control arms on an 06 solara following your videos and the mounts took the longest to accomplish because of the lower clearance on the solara. The solution that worked was to lower the subframe some while jacking up the pan. Took me 2 days to accomplish this for the first time but now I learned something. Thanks again for your videos.
Excellent! Whatever works!
Thank you so much.
You saved me alot of money.
That's great! You should share your experience with why you fixed it yourself.
@@hardlymovingpro what if they new mounts dont come with the stud?
Thanks for putting this video together. It's clear enough to do the job. Just a couple of minor comments. It appears the torque strut you replaced was not original. The original torque strut should have had rubber covers on the front-most part of the strut. For those who are replacing this part, you should put the two covers from the original strut onto your replacement strut since they serve as a damper for the strut. If you don't, at times when the strut twists, it will hit against the metal mounting bracket. Those covers will ensure the metal-to-metal rubbing doesn't happen. Lastly, providing the torque specs would have been helpful. Overall though, this is a very helpful video. So, thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your critique!
This is excellent! I will use this as a guide for my 2009 Camry mount replacement.
Good luck with the repair and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
@@hardlymovingpro I have a questions.....would this procedure be identical to the 09 Camrys ....you know asking for a friend
I'd say yes
I was just looking to understand what these things are. Your video and the explanation was very good. Thanks for taking time to make this video and share it with all.
Glad it was helpful!
Great Video, nice camera angles. no wife in the background telling u dinner is ready, LOL, kids not poking u in the back for your attention,Lol, all kidding aside this video was very helpful. U made it look easy my friend great job!!
Thanks for your review and appreciate your post!
you made this look so easy jefe! thanks for showing us the short cut! Pretty amazing how you can save so much time doing this job! Thanks for sharing! I subbed!
Thanks! Glad you found the video useful.
Your video saved me alot of cash. Thank you much sir.
Glad it helped you out!
Great video straight to the point! I needed this information for getting to the bolt on control arm. Thanks
Thanks! And you're correct. By removing the side motor mount you have a path to the mounting bolts of the control arm.
This is what i came for as well.
Thanks for this video I changed all four mounts watching this video 👌🏼
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Wow. One of the best videos on here. Straight to the point. Right tools and techniques makes the job go so smooth. I have bad luck with cars. So it will be a week long project for me. Lol.
Thanks! Glad you found the video useful and good luck with the repair!
Thanks for putting the up. I used it to change mine out
No problem 👍
Had problem with the top one and watched till the end. Should move the whole bracket. Tqvm
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks a bunch Boss. Your video is helping me to work on my car.
Glad it's helping you out!
Help support our channel by hitting the thumbs up and get notifications of new videos by subscribing ... thanks!
THANK YOU FOR THE UPLOAD DEFINITELY HELPS FOR A NEWBIE LIKE ME. THE VIDEO IS A STRAIGHTFORWARD
Glad you liked it!
Now after watching your video I will definitely do after buying right tools thanks
Great 👍
Make more videos! That was absolutely perfect! Straight to the point
Thanks!
just what I was after, straight to the point... okay here I go...
Thanks HMP
Glad you found it helpful!
Salute 🫡 I’m subscribed.
Hands down best how to video on motor mounts.Thank You Sir
I appreciate that and thanks for the sub!
Video made changing my mounts a breeze. The one thing that I couldn't understand tho. Is the driver side tranny mount that has the little pin that slides into the transmission. My part has the pin on the opposite side? How do you fix this problem? Wrong mount? I just changed them all except for that one. But I couldn't belive it.
If the pin doesn't match the old mount, then it's wrong.
Nice video!!!...But, it looks like only one out the 4 motor mounts were defective...the one on top of the engine ...so, why change all 4?
Noisy going over bumpy roads.
So is there any way to know if only one or two is bad not all of them . what's the way to know an diagnose the bad engine mount... thank you so much
The front motor mount takes the most stress. With the hood open and the engine running, have someone observe the engine (looking at it from the side of the car). Place the transmission in drive, use your left foot to apply the brakes (also use the parking brakes) and rev the engine with your right foot. If your partner sees the engine tilting up a lot during the rev up, the front mount is considered shot. It's normal for it to tilt a little but not a lot. If the front mount is really bad, the sides are probably stressed out as well to compensate for the worn out front mount.
Great video thank you for sharing this important information listening from Brownwood Texas
Thanks for watching!
This is an excellent video, straight to the point.
Thanks!
Can you start by replacing the top mount and see if engine calms down or will bad bottom mounts ruin new top mount
Bad bottoms will stress out the top torque rod.
Super easy job. I also replaced all of mine. Cant go wrong with genuine OEM parts
Yes ... you're right ... super easy.
Hardly Moving Productions thats funny....how much was the total price for parts?
Prices can vary based on different parts suppliers and whether the parts were OEM, purchased as part of a kit or individually.
Can’t go wrong with genuine oem parts? Lol until you the price. Even with online discounts, over 500 for 5 pcs?
@@dankam830 OEM is a nice-to-have with a limited warranty period ... MOOG, on the other hand, gives you a lifetime warranty on most parts. Also, you can consider buying from GM's parts supplier to get a cheaper price (i.e. AC Delco ... they provide a lifetime warranty to the original owner of the part).
Awesome job their young fella will be doing a set tomorrow thank you for the video.
You bet!
Please. My torque rod has flappy bits on both sides. Do you know what its called?!!!
Torque rod bushing dust covers ... I believe.
Simple and clear all the steps and tips. ❤️
Glad you liked it!
Great idea to remove studs, install mount, the re-attach studs.
Thanks!
I follow on this process to change motor mounts of Camry Hybrid with pretty thanks.
You bet!
Thanks for the video. I'm going to change the timing chain and the video didn't really go over well on mount removal.
your timing chain went bad? i thought it was only the belts that went bad.
7:38😏
Excellent video that applies to 4 cyl Highlander. Learning: 1. front mount is different, like a bell curve with a wheel in it. Remove plastic shielding underneath mount (expect some bolts to shear off); use 14mm deep hex socket to break 2 bottom nuts (anything else will break or be too shallow) or quality offset. 2. toyota scissor jack on 2 bricks placed on housing behind trans pan makes driver's side mount removal easy without removing top stud, 3. if like me you do the control arm, a little lift from a jack with plywood under the rotor helps create space to align it, 4. it took 6 hrs with no power tools in 90 deg heat with breaks for water and to be thankful.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Great video I’m going to knock this out this weekend. 👍
Good luck!
I done this job many times but I think you did better job than me good job boy only your forget torque but you don’t need to torque because you know what you doing for the new people need to know the torque
Thanks for your comment and support!
@2:35 would you happen to know what the bolt size is for the motor mount bracket? The previous owner got into a wreck and the guy that sold it to me didn't tell me about it and patched it up with JB weld. Now I have to swap out the upper oil pan...
From my recollection, 19 mm.
Nice video. Gives me a great what I’m in for.
Where did you lift the engine with the block of of wood? Thanks for the video!
Under the oil pan
@@hardlymovingpro Is this the only location to lift it. I'm afraid oil pan might bend when I do mine?
@@IBO8Jaeger Using a wide wood block between the engine oil pan and the hydraulic jack distributes the support tension to prevent the pan from damage and bending inwards.
no vibration with the aftermarket motor mounts?
No problems.
Very good tutorial. Everything went in like a charm.
Thanks and congratulations!
I'm going to attempt this today thank you your video really helped me a lot
All the best!
Just to confirm because i dont want to screw up. You are placing a jack underneath the transmission pan to slightly raise the engine up when replacing the driver side mount correct?
That's correct. Place a wide wooden block between the jack and transmission to not bend the transmission oil pan.
@hardlymovingpro Thank you for the information and the prompt response.
I had to be sure. I didn't want to damage the pan.
Nice video, you make it look so easy
Not too difficult to replace.
Outstanding video great camera work---Jerry D
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, needless to say anything else 👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video...thank you! I have a 2005 ES 330
Good for you! ES330 is a great car.
Would a bad mount be the cause of the car bucking during acceleration? IF so which mount is the cause? No check engine light and all plugs n coils are good. please lmk...ty!
Can't really say without examining the car.
Whats the wood block under? the oil pan-- cant it get crushed if so,
The wood block distributes the lifting force on the oil pan to prevent the pan from collapsing if using a small diameter hydraulic jack.
Any tips on how to remove the stud off the engine mount? The replacements do not come with new studs, unfortunately. I tried to PB blast it but it won't come out and I don't want to damage the threads
Return the new replacement. Should have new studs.
@@hardlymovingpro just returned the replacements and I got 5 new Toyota OEM mounts. The Venzas also have a 5th rear mount. I am going to attempt this week
@@SuperMan-uj7dh good move and keep us updated!
hey brother, where exactly do you place the wooden block under? looks like oil pan, but i doubt you'd put it right under the oil pan. can you explain? thank you
A wide wood block under the oil pan distributes the upward pressure from the hydraulic jack to prevent damage to the pan.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you. how wide would you go on the wood block? 6x6 or wider?
@planchik 6 x 6 should be ok
@@hardlymovingpro thank you
Detailed instructions, good job
Thanks!
Question the screw for the right mount the two screws that connect the mount and the engine what size are they
From by recollection 14 and 17 mm
Hi what’s the size of the nut that goes in the stud in the front engine mount thanks
Believe it's 17mm.
I have question. The engine mounts on the Toyota avalon are different and I cannot figure out why it's not lifting off the top bolt.
You'll need to provide more details.
@@hardlymovingpro I figured it out luckily. There was just some rust I needed to let break down. Thank you for your videos they have saved me alot of money
@@CalDavie08 good for you and thanks for sharing!
At 1:17 what what the arrow pointing to? What’s that parts that connects the Mount to the engine?
That's the side motor mount bracket that that the center top stud in the side motor mount slides into.
did i see this right, did you jack it up by the oil pan???
That's right. The pan can take it without distorting if you distribute the lift weight.
U have 4 mounts but only list 3 for purchase on your description
4th is the torque rod.
Thanks for the video. Where do you get the bolt use to guide the engine hole when you put the new mount in and lower the engine. What it the size of the bolt. Thanks.
If you're referring to the front mount (by the radiator), keep the lower mount's studs loose while slowly lowering the engine onto the new mount. When low enough, screw in the upper mount's bolt then let the engine completely rest on the mount and tighten everything up.
Good job man that was awesome
Torque mount: Reason for unscrewing entire assembly and not jut the mount ? Trying to learn.
The mounting holes may not align.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks. So I'll do the same...
Good luck!
The front mount top bracket bolt wouldn’t not go all the way in when I tightened it down. What am I’m doing wrong?
The new mount isn’t meant for the old bolt, you have to use the stud they give you, or you can cut the bolt about 1/2 inch so it can tighten.
Does this car have a vaccine hose that was attached to the front mount? I' need to replace them on my rx330 and looks like something is tied into it or am I crazy?
Yes. There is a vacuum hose port for the front mount.
Great video right to the point!!!
Glad you liked it!
Is it necessary to loosen all Mounts to change the Trans mount.
Yes
Most jobs can be done if you have some background working with tools. My problem is I live in a condo and don’t have the room. Great to have a garage. Good job
I hear ya! Best you can do is work at a friend's house.
This video is brilliant 💯✔👌👌👌... Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
@@hardlymovingpro No bs , and straight to point 💯👌 thx
WOW! 1 1/2 minutes in an I am all ready impressed! Sweeet move, taking off the wheels to reveal a clearer angle to that 1st mount. Definitely working "Smarter, not Harder". I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT 1.8 and could sure use some help. Not against doing the work myself, just need some mentor-ship from someone I can trust. Thank you so much for posting this. I am willing to pay you for a "consultation". Is there any way I could talk with you? .
Sure ... send me an email linked to my channel. And thanks for your post!
How much will be the labor only ? If I provide my own parts. Please give me some idea
2.5 hrs
About to tackle this job. I have an 02 camry and they all need to be replaced. Oem parts seem pretty steep and im wondering what your thoughts are on aftermarkets mounts and any good alternative to oem toyota? Can i get away with aftermarket on any of the mounts? Are any crucial to keep oem?
Can't really give an opinion on aftermarkets. Only replaced a few of these in extremely high mileage Camry's with no customer feedback.
Thank you very much for your details video.
No problem and thanks for your comment and support!
How long will this job take for a beginner?
Best guess with the right tools ... 3 hours.
Left and right mount took me an hour an a-half combined, front mount took 3. Dog bone took about 3 minutes.
@@tonyisgonetomorrow lets just say 5 hours. Daam. Thank you.
Hi, Have a question. Many people said after market mounts make engine vibrate worse. Is that true?
Yes and no. Depends on the vendor. If its a no name brand made in China, it's a crap shoot. Anchor, Westar and DEA, API, Beck/Arnley and SKP are reputable brands.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you, another question, I feel transmission mount is not as easy broken as front/right engine mount. Am I right? Just realize this is your RUclips channel. I read your car repair blog many years ago.
@@liyangtime My car repair blog at hubpages.com or axleaddict I assume? To top right mount (also call torque rod) will be under a lot of stress if the front engine mount is worn. So yes, replacing the front mount will but less stress on the top right mount.
H.M.P., is this the same procedure for 1MZ-FE engines, like a 2005 Toyota Camry 3.0L XLE?
Don't think so. The front mount should be the same. But believe the transmission mount is the old design and the right passenger doesn't exist except for the top torque rod. Also the old version has a rear mount (which compensates for the the lack of a right mount?). Believe when Toyota went with the 3.3L with a chassis design change, they deleted the rear and but made the hefty right and left side mounts.
Nice video as usual!! I noticed that you tightened the passenger side mount after replacing before working on the driver side. When you lift the transmission to replace driver side mount, could this stress the new mount on passenger side since that side gets lifted as well? Obviously you would not do this unless it is safe but I am just wondering.
Thanks! The angle of lift on the driver's side mount shouldn't disturb the passenger side; but if you want to play it safe, you can keep all the new mounts loose until they're all in and ready to be torqued down.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply!! The passenger side mount is so far away I guess it should have minimal effect. Just wanted to hear from an experienced mechanic.
@@hardlymovingpro I have one more question if you do not mind. I have problem lifting up the engine high enough to remove the mount because my jack does not go up high enough. What if I unscrew the stud using vice grip to remove it? Would that be possible in your opinion?
The factory stud in the mount may be difficult to twist out with vice grips. Two things you can do: 1. place a large wood block between the jack and transmission or engine oil pan. 2. Saw off (sawzall) the top exposed portion of the stud to shorten it or the bottom portion of the exposed stud.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply! I was thinking about cutting the stud off with oscillating tool that I have also if loosening with vice grip does not work. Since you suggested, I now have more confidence in the idea to cut the stud. I will try this. Thanks again. Appreciate it!!
Could you please tell me where to support the wood block to lift the engine if you can point in the camry that will be helpful hope it’s not the tran pan
Anywhere. Just a wood block wide enough to transfer and distribute the lifting force from the floor jack.
This is amazing! I have replaced my all four mounts. However, my aftermarket parts(TRQ) makes vibration even stronger. is anchor part reliable? I think that i have to go through all of this again. Haha i am still thinking genuine parts vs anchor part that you used. If anchor is good enough and reliable(at least remove vibration after installation), i will go with anchor part
Anchor is a good aftermarket brand that's a reasonable alternative to OEM Toyota. Is the vibration at idle or when moving? Could be out-of-balance wheels, damaged CV axles or wheel hub bearings.
@@hardlymovingpro it idles like crazy when idling with Drive or Reverse mode. Some folks from forum says that some aftermarket parts are so rigid so it could potentially result in vibration 🧐
@@hardlymovingpro i feel that Toyota part suppliers dont sell their part as OE unlike BMW. I have BMW and many part supplier sells identical genuine part with less than half price than Genuine part 🥲
This video is great! - o yea milwaukee team!
You gotta love those milwaukee impact tools!
I like everything perfectly. I have Camry 2009 2.4l. where you recommend to buy parts, original from a dealer or auto parts store. thanks
You can get quality aftermarket mounts from Anchor Industries. I provided links in this video's "show more" section
How are those engine mounts holding up from amazon? Great video btw I will just google torque specs and tackle this job.
No customer complaints to date.
Would have liked to see clearer indication of exactly where to place the wooden block to jack up the engine.
Place a wood block of equal or greater dimension of the base of the oil pan ... then position the hydraulic jack in the middle of the wood block to support the engine.
@@hardlymovingpro I have the same question. I can see that you placed the wood block under the engine oil pan. Are there other places, because I am scared to place the jack under the oil or transmission pan. The metal of both pans are so thing that I am afraid the pan might be at least bent , if not broken.
I have replaced the ATF filter a dozens of time and know how fragile is the pan . Can not imagine how it could support the weight of the engine.
I need to rise the engine 1-2 inches to get access to the one transmission 10 mm bolt that is blocked by sub-frame in lexus rx 350.
I am ready for the job, only one thing keeps me holding - the right and save spot for the jack to lift a bit the engine and transmission block.
I will appreciate your answer. Other than that your video is amazing. Everything is clear and focused . One of the best video for the job. Thank you.
@@stanislav9608 the point is to avoid placing force on one focal point on the pan. A wood block distributes the lifting force to prevent the pan from bending inward
Again sir you are awesome and thank you! A question though, where are the jackpoints on the passenger and driver side? I see some lifting the engine or trans on the oil pan or trans pan but I think you are jacking on different points. I think I missed where you put the wood blocks on. Thanks.
The best points to install the jack stands is on the rail that runs along both side of the car's chassis. The lifting of the engine and transmission via the oil pans is to tilt the engine or trans high enough to remove the mounts.
Excellent video
Glad you liked it!
Hi there
Please let me know which parts u used i mean the name of that brand of this mounts and ur feedback Please. I need the same thing.
Thanks
I like the brand Anchor.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks a million
It looks like you waited to tighten all nuts n bolts until all were installed. Do I need to remove fans to get to the mount on my 2.4 4 cyl ?
For the front mount you may have to remove the fan shroud
if you close your eyes it sounds like bill murray explaining car repairs to you