Toyota Avalon Engine & Transmission Mount Replacement V6 3.0L 2000-2004
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This Engine and Transmission Mount replacement video was made possible by Anchor Industries. Anchor is an 87 year old American based automotive parts manufacturer located in Cleveland, Ohio. Anchor has a long standing reputation as the aftermarket's premier engine and transmission mount manufacturer. Thank You Anchor Industries! If you want to learn more check them out at: www.anchor-online.com
Anchor parts are available nationally at Advance Auto and Carquest stores as well as many regional auto parts distributors & e-tailers.
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/Hard...
Parts used:
Toyota Avalon V6 3.0L 2000-2004 (2nd Generation)
Front, Anchor 9508 Engine Mount (2000-2004) OE 12361-0A050
amzn.to/2F2Q1rR
Rear, Anchor 9421 Engine Mount (2000-2004) OE 12371-0A030
amzn.to/30NlnLL
Right, Anchor 9388 Torque Strut Rod Upper (2000-2004) OE 12363-0A050
amzn.to/3iuQba4
Left, Anchor 8644 Transmission Lower AT (1995-2004) OE 12372-0A020
amzn.to/3gNozfI
Toyota Camry, Avalon, Solara, Lexus ES 300, '97'01 (Haynes Repair Manual)
amzn.to/34wmbXJ
Mounts change often, check your application before purchasing. Find the part you need by visiting www.showmetheparts.com/anchor/
This video will show you how I replaced the motor and transmission mounts on a 2002 Toyota Avalon with 155,000 miles. Toyota 4 door passenger vehicles with the V6 1MZFE engine use these mount designs. Some 3MZFE and the 2GRFE have a different design. The right (passenger side) mount is called a torque rod (or dog bone). They go bad quickly if the front mount exhibits signs of wear. During acceleration, engine torque will pull on the front mount lifting the engine upward. A simple test: Left foot on the brakes; right foot to tap on the accelerator pedal; a buddy standing by the side of the car watching how much the engine lifts up. The lifting force of a worn front mount can pull on the transmission mount. On this Avalon, the rubber to metal bonding adhesive had broken loose. The rear mount appeared to be in good shape with no signs of cracks.
The front motor mount failed my engine lift test. I wondered if the other mounts were worthwhile replacing or if replacement was unnecessary. Since I work on both Honda and Toyota vehicles, I spoke with Anchor's technical support specialist to get more information about both engine and transmission mount technology.
Some Highlights from my Q&A with Anchor:
Although front mounts appear to be the first mount to go bad, is there value for the car owner to replace all the mounts?
Yes, we always recommend replacing mounts as a set. Only changing one mount can apply added stress to the newly installed mount causing premature failure. Keep in mind every stretch on one side's mount is also a compression on the opposite side. It would be comparable to a marathon runner running 10,000 miles in the same pair of shoes. If he started experiencing pain in one of his ankles and determined it was because of worn out sneakers; he would want to replace both sneakers, not just the one causing him discomfort. By replacing both you're ensuring each side has equal give/ cushion and the mounts are able to function the way they were designed to.
Is the rubber used in anchor mounts superior to OEM mounts? If so, are they expected to last longer?
We match OE specs. We mirror the rubber's durometer (how stiff/ soft it is) so our mounts function the way the OE's were designed to. We don't claim superiority over OE; we aim to be unnoticeably similar. Our aftermarket peers however, aim to produce "good enough" at the lowest possible price. They often use fillers and recycled byproducts in their rubbers which inhibit mounts from performing their function (dampening engine vibrations).
In some instances, we try to improve upon the OE design by observing where and how the OE fails. If we see patterns or are able to identify specific weak points in the design, we reinforce those weaknesses by adding material and making them thicker (not by reformulating rubber recipes).
As an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
Please Subscribe: goo.gl/x6fySQ
![[DOKKAN BATTLE] Worldwide Campaign Announcement Video Part 2!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JpT5Voak6WA/mqdefault.jpg)
Well once again, Hes hardly moving. Lol. Always a pleasure to see a mechanic who knows what he is doing. Stay strong and Healthy Sir.
Thanks ... and you stay strong and healthy too!
Nice video. I like how you show what failed on the old part as compared to the new part. Nothing like thinking you replaced a part that wasn't broken.
Thanks! I do replace parts that are still serviceable but don't think they'll last too much longer.
Really beautiful work.Fantastic tools, knowledgeable approach and superb camera work. Thanks 4 sharing.
Thanks for you post and comment!
Excellent video! For clarification the hoses on the front motor mount are vacuum lines for the "active" or "hydraulic" motor mount. Make sure that you know if your vehicle has this or not when you go to purchase a replacement part. I originally purchased one without it not knowing this feature even existed. When I pulled the old part off and saw the new one didn't have a vacuum line I decided to try to purchase the right one as the whole idea of this project was to reduce the engine vibration. I might as well put the correct part in! I was having trouble finding one at the standard auto parts stores and ended up buying it from the Toyota parts counter, part # 12361-0A050.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I will be doing this this coming weekend, same year and model car. I appreciate this video a lot, it will save me a lot of money doing it myself.
Good luck!
scotty kilmar talks alot about Toyota, but you never really see him putting in work. TY for the video.
You're correct but recently he's been turning the wrench. He seems to complain a lot and skips detail.
Scotty works his lip more than his tools. I expect to find an actual work, etc video regarding the title of the video, but alas, it is just phone calls. I like scotty but I need to find information, etc that I can use.
@@bwest-yq3uc He doesn't seem to be enjoying himself doing an actual repair. Trying to segue to repairs to keep his channel views up ... or trying to upend Chris Fixx? Who knows?
@@hardlymovingpro Yea I consider Chris fixx and this channel same level. 💪 😎 #Lexus (Toyota)
@Hay Mamacita You can tell that through his videos.
Thanks for the video,I will be doing my 2001 Avalon this weekend. Apparently you pay attention to detail.Awesome
Glad it helped and good luck this weekend!
Holly shit that paper towel in the bolt trick changed my life
Easy and simple.
Thanks fort taking time to show how this works. Well done.
You're welcome!
love the video. great explanation on all of it. about how long did this process take you?
Thanks! Under 2 hours.
Ty for the info, thought my car did get extra vibration. Thought it was due to my coil overs but did a torque test. Tysm
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much to show how to replace. It is very good video for DIY people.
You bet!
once again, I don't know how you do it but perfect timing. I'm getting a small pop/clunk noise when i accel and I'm about certain its the front motor mount. Will be watching this as I do it.
Yup ... it's definitely the front mount.
@@hardlymovingpro I've watched most of the video, need to re-watch but did your new front mount have a vacuum hose attachment? I plan to replace soon but how long would you go with a front mount that needs to be replaced?
@@dot_mid6125This Avalon's front mount is not vacuum controlled. I did talk to a tech at Anchor Industries and he gave me details on how these vacuum control mounts work. Apparently these vacuum controlled mounts have gel cavities that move to different areas to dampen engine vibration. From my recollection, some older Lexus ES300's have them along with the new Honda vehicles. With respect to when to replace mounts, I'd say anytime after 100,000 miles to maintain a new car like ride ... worst case would be an engine clunk noise every time you accelerate from a dead stop.
Great video, straight ot the point.
Whats the torque specs for them bolts tho?
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro Let me kindly answer that question for him. The engine side bolts are supposed to be torqued to 59 foot-pounds and the frame side 35. You, on the other hand, impacted those to 1,000 ft lbs.
What are your thoughts about removing the torque rod and front mount and lowering the motor a couple inches to hopefully tilt the motor forward and away from the firewall and make rear valve cover gasket replacement easier? 🤔
That's possible ... but I've never done that before and what about the transmission mount?
Thanks
You bet!
Two Thumbs Up
Thanks!
Nicely done, great detailed explanation of things, I do have a question though can I replace just one of the mounts, I need to replace the transmission Mount, but I wasn’t sure if I just do the one, if it would damage anything, because the other mounts wouldn’t be loose and I’d be jacking the transmission up
You can replace one mount if you want. Regardless, you'll need to remove the upper torque rod and the center mount bolt in order to tilt the engine and lift the transmission side bracket off the transmission mount.
Dog bone won't line up
@@JamesRook-sr6cs hm that’s odd, you sure it’s the right part? As long as the bracket it mounts to wasn’t loosened or moved it should line up perfect however what can happen is the engine can shift especially if the previous mount was damaged, loosen the bracket it mounts to should be 2 long bolts, it happened to me when I did the timing belt, so once you loosen the bracket you can place the dog one in and put the mount bolts in then tighten the bracket back down and the dog one will flex into proper position
Should you have jacked the engine from the oil pan or not
When removing the front motor mount ... yes.
Great video...you are a blessing...quick question do you have a how to maintenance for the hydraulic Jack...thank you have a blessed day and be blessed
Thanks for your post. When the jack goes, it's probably a worn out oil seal. Best you can do is see if the hydraulic fluid is low and add oil. Tried to fix one once and turned into a complete waste of time. Couldn't find a replacement seal.
Nice work
Thanks for the visit!
Are you lifting the vehicle by the front cross member infront of the oil pan? It's hard to tell in the video, but other than that looks pretty straightforward.
For the right side (and the center mount), I lift directly from the oil pan placing a large wood block between the hydraulic jack and pan. For the left side, from the transmission oil pan. Hope this helps.
@@hardlymovingpro I meant getting the wheels off of the ground.
Hey Hardly Moving Productions,
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry v6 with the 1mzfe engine. Every time I accelerate quickly or decelerate quickly, I hear a distinct pop after I let go of the gas. I've also noticed that the shifting from 1st to 2nd gear is a bit hard, not slamming into gear hard, but you notice it. I went to several transmission shops and they told me the trans is fine. Could these be symptoms of failing motor mounts?
That might be. Could also be the rear bushing(s) on the lower front suspension control arms.
Looks like there is no connection for the vacuum hoses on the replacement center mount. Is that ok? I’m replacing mine now and realized this.
Can't say how it would effect the ride quality.
I was wondering where can I find the strut mount to the right of the front motor mount behind the radiator through searching people called it the engine torque strut but it doesn't even pop up on any auto parts store
I think you're talking about the torque rod (aka dog bone); not the torque strut.
Very nice video. I heard you mention 17mm. Are all bolts 17mm? Iwould imagine there are different sizes. What different sizes are there?I didn't hear you mention to torque the bolts, it looked like some were and some weren't. If so which ones and what spec? Thanks in advance.
Thanks! 17, 14 and I think 12 mm. I don't use torque specs with large nuts and bolts.
How are the Anchor branding mounts doing?
No customer complaints to date.
Did you replace the one in the back or passenger bottom side
Front, left and right.
I just had a shop do the dog bone mount and the front mount but they for whatever reason didnt do my transmission mount and my rear motor mount, I'm getting a vibration when in reverse and sometimes it shifts hard into reverse so I'm assuming that transmission mount is toast, idk if this has damaged my front mount at all but if not can I replace the transmission mount just by loosening up the front mount? Is that necessary to get the transmission mount off? Or can I just loosen the transmission mount and raise it with the jack? Thanks
Did you tell the "shop" about your car's symptoms after they did the front mount replacement?
Hey so I have a 2003 Avalon that clunks when it downshifts from 2nd to 1st, I suspected the transmission mount but it showed no signs of wear beside some hairline cracks, I also inspected the rear mount and torque rod but they were in fine condition as well, I do think it could be the front mount but I can really get a look at it without taking it out, I see in the video yours was all loose, so is there a way I could test to see if that mount is the issue, and do you know of any other causes of the clunk issue, it also happens when I go from 50mph to 20mph when slowing for a school zone, any input would be very appreciated, thank you have a great day!
Have you done a drain-and-fill in your transmission with new ATF?
@@hardlymovingpro es I have done multiple drain and fills, I believe I have done about 4 gallons, I also changed the filter/screen, sorry I did not see your reply until now, I was revisiting this video
What is your thoughts on aftermarket parts?
Go with name brand aftermarkets like Moog, Cardone, Anchor, etc. that have been around for awhile and have a reputation to maintain. I don't have much faith with repackaged/relabeled store brand products like AutoZone's Duralast.
Did the front motor mount you replaced had a vacuum port? I have a 2004 Toyota Avalon with a worn out front motor mount, from what I heard I had to get a new one with a vacuum port in it. I have searched online and it seems most of them are without it.
Yes, the front Anchor brand does have a vacuum port.
See my Avalon shakes when I go to accelerate what do u think it could be and it doesn’t always shake when I go to accelerate but it started to do it more often now
CV axle. Worn bearings or bearing cage
Do you have to do anything specific if you're just replacing the strut torque mount ? The one on the top passenger side ? Do I have to support the motor in anyway ?
The top torque rod is very easy to replace needing no engine support; however, the worn torque rod could be an indication of a worn side and front motor mount.
Is it possible that you get similar noises when turning the wheel left and right while coasting(not using gas pedal)? Or am I having a different problem like the struts or tie-rods, ball joints, etc? Any advice is appreciated
Left right noise maybe worn wheel bearings
What about the rear mount?
The most difficult to replace ... but fortunately not worn.
can engine mounts make noise when you turn your wheel left or right all the way, even a pop or 2? i replaced my struts, links, sway bar bushings, control arms, axles, and im still hearing a noise when i turn either left all the way or right all the way and sometimes on uneven ground. on a 06 camry 3.3 v6, any input would be appreciate. nice video btw.
Did you replace the ball joints or the cv axles?
Can you please explain what is the hose connected to the front motor mount is for?
They're vacuum hoses to control the motor mount dampening based on the ride condition.
What is the connector pliers you used at 6:27 of the video to separate the electrical connector?
They're called Push Pin Pliers. Here's a link: amzn.to/3E9RhG9
What was the torque specs for all the mount pieces?
Sorry ... don't have them.
It's all good, another thing I was wondering, do you have to have the wood and jack underneath if you only needed to replace the torque rod?
The torque rod can be replaced without any engine support; however, the torque rod bushings usually wear out due to excess front and side motor mount movement due to wear.
Would you recommend eBay mount kit for 60$ 🤔
No name brands on ebay can be a hit or miss proposition.
is anchor a good brand for replacement mounts? ive heard otherwise, not sure
There's also DEA, Westar, Beck/Arnley & FVP brands.
Yes but how were the anchors did u have any noises or vibrations with them
Did you ever replace the rear engine mount bushing on this engine? That's the one I have to do.
Haven't experienced one yet that needed replacement.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for your reply! I should probably replace them all at once. I thought they were uniform but I have found there's Vvti and non vvti versions of the mounts. And I have the hydraulic mount on the front.
@@RickTroutner Good decision!
HELP I have a 2006 Avalon XL I recently had upper motor mounts replaced. My transmission is now slipping. It has never done this before. Could it have been due to the motor mounts being replaced wrong?
Nope. Had a customer with a 08 Avalon with 180,000 miles that needed a new transmission. The ATF was never changed. When we drained the pan, there were metal shaving in the oil. We put in a replacement donor transmission with 80,000 miles. Do a ATF drain and fill and see if that improves it.
Is there any point to putting non oem hydraulic front mount if it does come with electric connectors vs just simple rubber type? Hydrolic go for $150 while rubber type can be for $60 in physical autostores.
Hydraulic mounts can reduce felt engine vibration
@@hardlymovingpro so more so then the rubber type? Okay fair enough. Checked my invoice and realized I only payed $100, so instead of returning went ahead and installed it.
Whatever works!
Uou my friend are the teal hero/mvp
Thanks for you comment and support!
is the torque rod also an engine motor mount?
Not really. It hold the engine from twisting during acceleration.
@@hardlymovingpro uh oh. Uhhh is there an engine mount like near or close to the torque rod and if so do you know the name of it. I might need to cancel an order and get the correct part
I didn't realize there's a transmission mount because it's not shaped the same as the front and rear engine mounts.
That's correct. It's a small mount.
Do you know the torque spec for the 17mm bolt on the front mount? I can't seem to find it in the repair manual.
I didn't use a torque wrench on the 17 mm.
@@hardlymovingpro what are all the torque specs...
0:59 I can't remove the top bolt on the center mount at all put my universal socket on it and broke it as put tension on it what am i doing wrong ?
The bolt's mounting point in the mount may have broken loose. You'll have to use an open end wrench to hold the bolt mount while loosening the bolt with a powered impact tool.
WHAT ARE THE TORQUE SPECS!
IN THE REPAIR MANUAL.
My avalon when accelerate the motor jumps and vibrate when is running wich one you think could be???
Front.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you sir!!!!!!
@@juanchochaprieta1053 You bet!
Can someone help me with the torque specs please? I have a 2013 avalon hybrid thanks!
Get a Chilton and Haynes repair manual. Has all the specs.
@@hardlymovingpro this is a pointless answer
Perhaps
Haynes manual for 2013 Avalon has almost every torque spec except motor mounts…👎
While I can’t vouch for these, it’s all I could find online. toyota-specs.com/cars/2015/avalon3.5/torque-specs_engine.php
Rear one is the pia of the bunch lol
You're right!
What all has to be done to remove the rear mount?
I think I need to do these mounts on my 99 ES300 with 200k. Never been done on this car. Did you perform some kind of test to determine that the back motor mount did not need to be replaced?
Where did you get the mounts from and how much were they?
I got the mounts from Anchor Industries who sponsored this video. Believe you can buy the parts from AdvanceAuto, OReilly's, Rockauto or perhaps Amazon.
Great Video. From what I gather All aftermarket motor mounts are crap including Anchor mounts. They are rebranded under different names. I am going with original Toyota I think. Its a shame there are not reliable aftermarket mounts that you can count on given how much they cost. Can cost upto $800 from Toyota.
Believe what you want to believe ... or gather. No issues using Anchor.
Thanks
No problem!