I had the same problem, rough idle, stalling, P0011 on my Hyundai i10 from 2011. The problem was the intake solenoid valve being corroded inside on the piston. I took it apart by bending the flange (yes, that can be done). I removed the rust on the piston inside by water sand paper grid 2000, oiled a bit and assembled again. After that the problem was completely gone, that is 4 years ago
Hi Sandy, this last week we had an I10 in for this same code, we'd previously done a flush, oil and filter and still we had this code randomly coming back, our car had only done 47k, no abnormal noise. We decided to do some basic timing checks, pulled the rocker cover, and checked the scribe lines on the hubs and compared them to TDC, the scribe lines on the exhaust hub are at 3 oclock and at 9 oclock on the inlet hub, both lines should be in line with the top of the timing cover, we found that the indented mark on the front pulley had gone past the tdc mark when the hub marks aligned by around 8 degrees or so. Also when rotaing the engine via the crank pulley bolt we noticed scary amounts of slack in the chain between the hubs as the cams loaded and released on the valve springs. WE decided we were going in! found chain completely stretched and worn out, tensioner at max travel, bit of plastic gone from the drive side blade, rebuilt with new chain, guides, tensioner, we used genuine parts. It is all good now, no more light, we think the hubs were oscillating on the over run and generating the P0014. Additionally when we first saw the car we pulled some scope patterns of the correlation between the cams and crank, after repair the exhaust cam and inlet cam signal were 8 peaks closer to tdc signal than before repair.
I think the take away from my experience is don't assume low miles means the chains fine, and also don't assume no abnormal noise means the chains fine.
Exactly what I have done,main problem is that they are stretched but the reason for cam chain instead of belt is a chain should do a minimum of 80k which all manufacturers used as a guide line why not Hyundai
@@misscrabstick. Hi there stubbles across this thread. I’ve a Hyundai in with a p0011 fault code. Would there be any chance of sending me a known good cam/crank waveform. I use picoscope. Thanks
Got the same problem on mine. the valve was seriously stuck in there so was expecting the worst but it was spotless. Give a good doeing in WD and a blow out with compressed air. Cleared the codes, find out soon......
I had the same issue. Changed the cam sensor, crank sensor, timing chain and it still did not fix it. What did fix it was replacing the PCV valves - if you disconnect the PCV valve line and block it with your finger the car will idle very rough.
My wife has a 62 plate and has the P0011 fault, think I might have to oil & filter change, I changed the camshaft position sensor before and it stayed off for about 6 weeks. MOT is due soon too and can't afford a timing chain 😬
Have you tried cleaning the solenoids and oil and filter change check the oil filter out just in case it’s contaminated and dropping pressure and obviously affecting the pressure going to solenoids! Beyond that i think it would be the timing chain
Hi just a question I put to Hyundai about this issue I have done 3 now all below 50k miles stretched chains ,I also did a bit of digging and found that the chain system they use was also used in the 80s honda vfr motor cycle same part number, but honda scrapped it as it had the same problem and changed it to direct drive the first one ever if I recall my youth used to have one lol
Hi, got same fault on a 62plate, only maybe a lack of power going uphill. Swapped the solenoid, oil and filter. Fault returned. Hyundai quoting £500 for timing chain replacement 😳
@Vegan Soldier 1st step make sure your oil is topped up and reset the codes. Cleaning/replacing the 2 vvt solenoids which you can test using the diagnostic machine. Then cheaply you can replace the cam speed sensor, the cam position sensor and crank position sensor. My local Hyundai dealer said they had never replaced the timing chain!
Hi Sandy Bought i10 recently and had similar issues. P0014. Crank sensor replaced by the seller. I replaced both cam sensors. P0014 remained. Removed cam cover - chain and timing marks appear spot on. Temporarily swapped int and exh ocv positions but P0014 remained. I don't have a professional diagnostics tool but could you recommend next steps for troubleshooting? Gary
Hi Hyundai i10 2009 model. When accelerating from low rpm car keeps jerking ( miss fires) And noticeable power loss. When Scanned no fault codes came up. Fuel pump checked no issues , fuel filter changed, ECM no issue, ignition coil is new, plugs are new, ignition cables new, injectors are working, IAC valve working, throttle body no issues, Clutch assembly full new. When Jerking silencer is producing popping sound from the unburnt fuel. Checked all wiring and it's okay. The funny thing is that some times the car has good pickup. What might be the issue. Please help..
I had the same problem, rough idle, stalling, P0011 on my Hyundai i10 from 2011. The problem was the intake solenoid valve being corroded inside on the piston. I took it apart by bending the flange (yes, that can be done). I removed the rust on the piston inside by water sand paper grid 2000, oiled a bit and assembled again. After that the problem was completely gone, that is 4 years ago
Brilliant thanks for information cheers sandy
Hi Sandy, this last week we had an I10 in for this same code, we'd previously done a flush, oil and filter and still we had this code randomly coming back, our car had only done 47k, no abnormal noise. We decided to do some basic timing checks, pulled the rocker cover, and checked the scribe lines on the hubs and compared them to TDC, the scribe lines on the exhaust hub are at 3 oclock and at 9 oclock on the inlet hub, both lines should be in line with the top of the timing cover, we found that the indented mark on the front pulley had gone past the tdc mark when the hub marks aligned by around 8 degrees or so. Also when rotaing the engine via the crank pulley bolt we noticed scary amounts of slack in the chain between the hubs as the cams loaded and released on the valve springs. WE decided we were going in! found chain completely stretched and worn out, tensioner at max travel, bit of plastic gone from the drive side blade, rebuilt with new chain, guides, tensioner, we used genuine parts. It is all good now, no more light, we think the hubs were oscillating on the over run and generating the P0014. Additionally when we first saw the car we pulled some scope patterns of the correlation between the cams and crank, after repair the exhaust cam and inlet cam signal were 8 peaks closer to tdc signal than before repair.
I think the take away from my experience is don't assume low miles means the chains fine, and also don't assume no abnormal noise means the chains fine.
If ya need it can send you good scope wave form for comparisons.
Cheers for all the good info my friend, I would like to see the waveform please my handle at RUclips is @sandyande
Exactly what I have done,main problem is that they are stretched but the reason for cam chain instead of belt is a chain should do a minimum of 80k which all manufacturers used as a guide line why not Hyundai
@@misscrabstick. Hi there stubbles across this thread. I’ve a Hyundai in with a p0011 fault code. Would there be any chance of sending me a known good cam/crank waveform. I use picoscope. Thanks
Got the same problem on mine. the valve was seriously stuck in there so was expecting the worst but it was spotless. Give a good doeing in WD and a blow out with compressed air. Cleared the codes, find out soon......
I had the same issue. Changed the cam sensor, crank sensor, timing chain and it still did not fix it. What did fix it was replacing the PCV valves - if you disconnect the PCV valve line and block it with your finger the car will idle very rough.
Which code were you getting ?
Thank you , it works perfectly with my car. I pulled out the solenoid valve then cleaned it with DW40 as well as a bit of oil and problem solved. 🫡
My wife has a 62 plate and has the P0011 fault, think I might have to oil & filter change, I changed the camshaft position sensor before and it stayed off for about 6 weeks. MOT is due soon too and can't afford a timing chain 😬
Changed the oil and filter and the light has came back on after a day 🤔 I really don't know what to do now
Have you tried cleaning the solenoids and oil and filter change check the oil filter out just in case it’s contaminated and dropping pressure and obviously affecting the pressure going to solenoids! Beyond that i think it would be the timing chain
Hi just a question I put to Hyundai about this issue I have done 3 now all below 50k miles stretched chains ,I also did a bit of digging and found that the chain system they use was also used in the 80s honda vfr motor cycle same part number, but honda scrapped it as it had the same problem and changed it to direct drive the first one ever if I recall my youth used to have one lol
Stretched timing chain is common
Oil n filter change Sandy , clear the codes and tell the customer to get rid before they come back on 😂😂😂👍👍👍
Sounds like a plan Mike👍😃
🤣🤣🤣👍
Did you solve this issue?
Hi ,Some times the pins #1430JB move back into the cam allowing the vvt to rotate.
Thanks for getting back with info, this code can sometimes take 1 week to comeback is that a symptom? Cheers sandy
@@sandyande You should do a cam crank waveform to rule the timing out
Cheers will do, Sandy
Hi Sandy, which scan tool are u using
What model scan tool are you using?
Hi, got same fault on a 62plate, only maybe a lack of power going uphill. Swapped the solenoid, oil and filter.
Fault returned.
Hyundai quoting £500 for timing chain replacement 😳
@Vegan Soldier 1st step make sure your oil is topped up and reset the codes.
Cleaning/replacing the 2 vvt solenoids which you can test using the diagnostic machine. Then cheaply you can replace the cam speed sensor, the cam position sensor and crank position sensor.
My local Hyundai dealer said they had never replaced the timing chain!
@Vegan Soldier good luck
same thing, expecially on uphill
Hi Sandy
Bought i10 recently and had similar issues. P0014.
Crank sensor replaced by the seller. I replaced both cam sensors. P0014 remained.
Removed cam cover - chain and timing marks appear spot on.
Temporarily swapped int and exh ocv positions but P0014 remained.
I don't have a professional diagnostics tool but could you recommend next steps for troubleshooting?
Gary
Hi Gary most garages resolve that code by installing a timing chain kit because of stretch in the chain
@@sandyande
Thanks Sandy
But as I said, all timing marks align perfectly.
I'm going to try a nes exhaust cam ocv - and then who knows...
On the basis that the spring on that valve appeared weaker than the one on the intake valve
Did you manage to fix this by changing the exhaust cam ocv valve ? As I am having the same p0014 code.
Is the exhaust and intake VVT the same part when buying?
Sorry no idea
Hi Sandy did you ever get to the bottom of this code regards Ian I have same issue 😣
We ended up changing oil and filter and customer says light never came back on, so fingers crossed
@@sandyande cheers Sandy I ll tell customer we ll try that first before looking at timing marks out of alignment etc
👍🍻
Hi
Hyundai i10 2009 model.
When accelerating from low rpm car keeps jerking ( miss fires) And noticeable power loss.
When Scanned no fault codes came up.
Fuel pump checked no issues , fuel filter changed, ECM no issue, ignition coil is new, plugs are new, ignition cables new, injectors are working, IAC valve working, throttle body no issues, Clutch assembly full new.
When Jerking silencer is producing popping sound from the unburnt fuel.
Checked all wiring and it's okay.
The funny thing is that some times the car has good pickup. What might be the issue. Please help..