My car had all of these symptoms but no codes or engine light leading me to driving it for ten days not knowing what was wrong. Thank goodness my mechanic thought possibly cam and crank sensors and I found the video! Can’t believe it could have stopped while I was driving it. Mine is automatic and cut out twice at traffic lights. No codes at all!
Thanks man, just serviced my entire throttle body, plugs and cleaned out a bunch of stuff only to pinch the wires like nipples and it started. On the bright side, my rb25 is working more amazing than ever!
Thank you for this video. I have been having issues with my Nissan Altima with the SIL coming on randomly and when it comes on my car jumps and jerks as the RPM's get up to speed. I have changed out about every sensor I could think of and the ones the Nissan readers read and still the problem persists. The two sensors I have yet to change out are the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. I will get these two changed out ASAP and hopefully she will run with no problems from here on out.
Does the codes create knocking type sounds also? Or sounds in general from the engine? I have 2013 scion frs with the p0024 and p000d, p000a, p000b codes.
On a bmw camshaft sensors show up as valvetronic issues which lead people like me to chase the issue for 3 years only to end up to this $20 part i forgot i broke 3 years ago changing my vanos
So random days my ford escape starts to stutter while driving like a horse I guess you can say and then it doesn't allow me to go faster than let's say 20 mph and if i try to it starts to shake and sometimes it'll smell like burnt when I open the hood. I don't see any leaks or smoke. So when that happens I have to turn off the car and let it sit for about 15mins and then when I turn it back on it'll be back to normal until days or weeks and then it'll happen again.
I have all these symptoms but I know it could be a couple of different things.. Ive eliminated most, but how can I test the camshaft sensors on my car? I have 8 of them, each at 50 usd where I live.. I've thrown a lot of money at the car, I can't keep replacing everything in hopes.. Please help
2 in 1 oil pressure sensor and camshaft position sensor it is a very bad design for the reason of being made of soft materials such plastic, abs etc , the connection pins are keen to expand when engine is hot vibration also increases the risk of creating gaps between the wiring and the case of the sensor wich will allow the engine oil to contaminates the connection wiring and mish-mash with the signal transmitted to pcm/ecu
My Jeep compass is giving me vibrations on steering wheel at idle. Something the vibrations are felt like highs and lows on the steering wheel. Can this be linked to this sensor?
My 2009 Subaru had the passenger side sensor go bad at 160k miles and the driver side sensor go bad at 180k miles. 1st time it just died and threw a CEL and wouldn’t restart. 2nd time it had random jerking while driving and random stalling at idle with no CEL but could restart.
I have a 2004 GMC Envoy and the camshaft sensor is broken and throwing a code. The plastic piece is literally broke off in the engine but it still cranks.
Chrysler T and c similar symptoms driving along at low RPM. And acts like it dies and stays going. Then also stalls at, stop signs. Or low idol mostly. also, when the air conditioner is on seems to be. Worse when it's hot. Stalls or dies just briefly.
My 96 Tahoe’s reverse went out then not long after it wouldn’t shift past 2-3gear..is my transmission shot? P.s I originally put it the shop to get the tail lights to work and the replaced my steering column without my knowledge or ok then I got it home the reverse went out.arw they related? It had no issues before I took it in for taillight issues.
Those symptoms are only when the car is cold, or also when the engine is hot? I have exactley those symptoms but only when the car is cold. I have power on acceleration, and the car goes as best as it is when the car is warm. I changed the sparkplugs, cleaned the injectors. I have P0011 and sometimes P0012 error codes and I think its about the sensors..
I have the same thing. It only manifested when the car was cold, and now it won't start at all. I'm about to change the sensor today so we'll find out soon enough I guess.
@@tyxne6645I changed the sensor and got rid off the fault code, but the car still isn't starting. I proceeded to use INPA to synchronize the EWS system, but still nothing. Now I'm waiting for a new ring antenna for the key tumbler. If that doesn't work, I'm pretty much left with two options; either a relay has busted inside the EWS or the ECU is faulty. I'm proceeding with the "cheapest first" approach..
@@tyxne6645Changing the sensor was easy enough apart from the bolt it was attached by. I have a BMW from -99 and the bolt was absolutely ridiculous. It was a weird bolt that would've needed a special BMW tool, but I ended up getting it out after a few hours and some violence. Replaced with a regular bolt.
My car had all of these symptoms but no codes or engine light leading me to driving it for ten days not knowing what was wrong. Thank goodness my mechanic thought possibly cam and crank sensors and I found the video! Can’t believe it could have stopped while I was driving it. Mine is automatic and cut out twice at traffic lights. No codes at all!
Thanks man, just serviced my entire throttle body, plugs and cleaned out a bunch of stuff only to pinch the wires like nipples and it started. On the bright side, my rb25 is working more amazing than ever!
Kind of a blessing in disguise. Ain't it nice to zip around nice and smooth now and really feel the difference?
This is the EXACT symptoms of a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Exactly I changed the crankshaft sensor only to realize the camshaft sensor was bad…
@@michaelphillips9302 Did you get any fault code at the time?
@@michaelphillips9302well what code did you get?
I got a p0014 code
Except when it’s the crankshaft sensor the car won’t start
Thank you for this video. I have been having issues with my Nissan Altima with the SIL coming on randomly and when it comes on my car jumps and jerks as the RPM's get up to speed. I have changed out about every sensor I could think of and the ones the Nissan readers read and still the problem persists. The two sensors I have yet to change out are the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. I will get these two changed out ASAP and hopefully she will run with no problems from here on out.
Have you switched them yet?
Does the codes create knocking type sounds also? Or sounds in general from the engine? I have 2013 scion frs with the p0024 and p000d, p000a, p000b codes.
No. That's likely knocking rods.
Knock sensor
On a bmw camshaft sensors show up as valvetronic issues which lead people like me to chase the issue for 3 years only to end up to this $20 part i forgot i broke 3 years ago changing my vanos
Thanks for the updated video. 👍🏾👍🏾
and thank you!
@easyautofix I have a question for you with an issue that's happening with my car. Maybe you might know what's causing it?
So random days my ford escape starts to stutter while driving like a horse I guess you can say and then it doesn't allow me to go faster than let's say 20 mph and if i try to it starts to shake and sometimes it'll smell like burnt when I open the hood. I don't see any leaks or smoke. So when that happens I have to turn off the car and let it sit for about 15mins and then when I turn it back on it'll be back to normal until days or weeks and then it'll happen again.
Currently have a crank no start situation. Just ordered a sensor hopefully fixes issue🙏🏽
Did it?
I once forgot to plug in the cam position sensor and car didn't want to start😂😂 and i thought i screwed up something
Did it crank tho? Even tho it was unplugged?
You forgot about one thing it will also send your car into limp mode
Only when it completely fails !
Mine doesn’t. 2013 sierra
My Civic si goes into limp mode. I've also changed spark plugs & coils. It recently threw misfire on all cylinders. Hopefully this can fix the issue.
Most NEWER cars do
Yes! My car is in limo mode right now won’t go past 4000rpms and also sticks at 2000rpms while on freeway!
Thank you all data and ty you sir I’m a new subscriber I love the professional information and everything i learn alot
I have all these symptoms but I know it could be a couple of different things.. Ive eliminated most, but how can I test the camshaft sensors on my car? I have 8 of them, each at 50 usd where I live.. I've thrown a lot of money at the car, I can't keep replacing everything in hopes.. Please help
Symptoms same as crankshaft sensor?
All data is a great app
2 in 1 oil pressure sensor and camshaft position sensor it is a very bad design for the reason of being made of soft materials such plastic, abs etc , the connection pins are keen to expand when engine is hot vibration also increases the risk of creating gaps between the wiring and the case of the sensor wich will allow the engine oil to contaminates the connection wiring and mish-mash with the signal transmitted to pcm/ecu
My Jeep compass is giving me vibrations on steering wheel at idle. Something the vibrations are felt like highs and lows on the steering wheel. Can this be linked to this sensor?
My 2009 Subaru had the passenger side sensor go bad at 160k miles and the driver side sensor go bad at 180k miles. 1st time it just died and threw a CEL and wouldn’t restart. 2nd time it had random jerking while driving and random stalling at idle with no CEL but could restart.
can a faulty camshaft sensor cause a misfire in only one cylinder?
Is it possible for it to no crank no start if it’s bad
Dont judge me but can a bad camshaft sensor cause your vehicke to thrw random and or inconsistent trans codes?
Thank you for you video
I’ve changed the sensor on my jeep twice and it’s still throwing codes and going into limp mode 😢
Did you buy an oem part?
I have a 2004 GMC Envoy and the camshaft sensor is broken and throwing a code. The plastic piece is literally broke off in the engine but it still cranks.
Chrysler T and c similar symptoms driving along at low RPM. And acts like it dies and stays going. Then also stalls at, stop signs. Or low idol mostly. also, when the air conditioner is on seems to be. Worse when it's hot. Stalls or dies just briefly.
Was it the cam sensor?
What about rpm dropping to zero when it’s running?
My car doing that too
@@yba6883 what car do you have? I have a 2013 Santa Fe turbo, and it seems like it’s gonna be a bitch to change my sensor
@@sethnorth4294 did you ever get it fixed?
Great video
My 96 Tahoe’s reverse went out then not long after it wouldn’t shift past 2-3gear..is my transmission shot? P.s I originally put it the shop to get the tail lights to work and the replaced my steering column without my knowledge or ok then I got it home the reverse went out.arw they related? It had no issues before I took it in for taillight issues.
I had a similar issue once 2016 Subaru WRX, and it turned out to be a bad clutch.
Can this sensor bring injectors errors? I have an Audi A4 2.0 TDI 170 hp engine code BRD.
My car sounds like a AK47 backfiring and popping everywhere and it has a code for this
🤣 my car is backfiring only when decelerating, and has intermittent sluggish acceleration because of thise crappy sensor.
Those symptoms are only when the car is cold, or also when the engine is hot? I have exactley those symptoms but only when the car is cold. I have power on acceleration, and the car goes as best as it is when the car is warm. I changed the sparkplugs, cleaned the injectors. I have P0011 and sometimes P0012 error codes and I think its about the sensors..
I have the same thing. It only manifested when the car was cold, and now it won't start at all. I'm about to change the sensor today so we'll find out soon enough I guess.
@@janbo8331what happened? mine doing it now
@@tyxne6645I changed the sensor and got rid off the fault code, but the car still isn't starting. I proceeded to use INPA to synchronize the EWS system, but still nothing. Now I'm waiting for a new ring antenna for the key tumbler. If that doesn't work, I'm pretty much left with two options; either a relay has busted inside the EWS or the ECU is faulty. I'm proceeding with the "cheapest first" approach..
@@tyxne6645Changing the sensor was easy enough apart from the bolt it was attached by. I have a BMW from -99 and the bolt was absolutely ridiculous. It was a weird bolt that would've needed a special BMW tool, but I ended up getting it out after a few hours and some violence. Replaced with a regular bolt.