I am also a retired mechanic but today's vehicles are very time consuming and I still have my old broham and it has points a coil and carby and to be honest I like the simplicity and the cost of a service that I am still doing myself and I will probably just keep the old girl running.
Excellent video. I have a customer with four persistent fault codes for a wheel speed sensor and cam position sensor, instead of letting me perform tests to find the cause, he's purchased and had me install... 3 cam position sensors, and one wheel speed sensor... with no results. I'm hoping he'll allow me to actually diagnose the issue after the wheel speed sensor $$$$ didn't fix it... which I told him wouldn't fix it. I'm gonna send him this video, it explains the diagnostic process way better than me.
Thank you, we've glad you liked the video! Hopefully your customer likes it too and you can get them back on the road ASAP 🙏 We also have a brief video on wheel speed sensor faults as well if it would help: ruclips.net/video/T74B_aELnU0/видео.html
Thank You very much for this complete video about test and fix a constant camshaft position problem. I was driving myself crazy trying to figure it out until I saw you video. Thanks to this I was able to fix my camshaft position sensor P0342 in a 2007 Hummer H2. Thank you.
I would like to share one condition that doesn't seem to be covered in this diagnostic methodology which has occurred in my experiences working as a professional diagnostic tech over the years. When testing for reference voltage at the sensor it is critical to be aware that there may be other sensors such as MAP, TPS, crankshaft position sensor and others which may be sharing the same reference voltage supplied by the PCM. These other sensors can have an internal short which could be shorting out the supply within the PCM causing low or no voltage at the cam sensor and or PCM potentially causing a misdiagnosis if not aware. I have also had what appeared to be a dead PCM on some cars when this reference was shorted to ground causing a PCM no response. I hope this helps anyone out there and Thank You for the video and the simplicity of your explanation when performing diagnostics.
It worked well. The radio and while making a Bluetooth call, they both would shut off for a few seconds and then come back on over and over, and I would lose power steering sometimes too. The check engine light came on and that's when I had Auto Zone give me a diagnostic trouble code, and it was showing the power train system, and ABS. Sure enough though, and the attendant tried to sell me a power train system for $456.90, but she made the mistake of saying that the codes just needed to be reset and that when I found this, and two other videos telling me to do this. Thank you very much!
Very informtive and complete video! I got lucky! On my 2007 Murano, I used a 10mm ratching wrench and did not have to move the hose. Just before pulling the sensor, I blew out the connector and the sensor pins in place with electronics cleaner and all codes went away. So I never even had to pull the sensor! I was showing P0345(Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2), P0725(Engine speed input circuit), P1701(Power supply circuit), P0868 (Transmission fluid low). The last 3 are Nissan OEM codes. I'm not smart enough to know if those should be all related, but I can see where all but the P0868 could be related, maybe? Anyway, Thanks for saving me time and money! I will update if any of them come back.😎
Hi I was wondering what your outcome was I have the same issues with the same vehicle make and year with the same codes except my camshaft code is p0340 instead of p0345
Thank you for posting another awesome video Tim, just as an afterthought how much investment went into your state of the Art workshops ? i must say it looks very impressive, hopefully 1 day i too shall have an impressive repair shop like the one your filming in!! 🙂
Hi. We re-build hundreds of different ECUs, please visit our website www.ecutesting.com and search for your unit's part number. If you cannot find your part number on our website then please email our technical support team on info@ecutesting.com and they will advise you on any re-build services we can provide. Thanks.
Great video! Thank you! I drive a 2012 Jeep Wrangler that frequently throws PO 369 and more recently PO365 and goes into limp mode. Would these tests be appropriate to diagnose these? Thanks
Hi. Yes, the codes P0365 and P0369 indicate a fault with the camshaft 'B' sensor so completing all the checks outline in the video would help differentiate if the fault is with the sensor, its wiring, or the ECU.
My question is what if its an intermittent problem with the crank positioning itself , hard starting some days , no start then an hour later starts up . If you perform the test you did and all is well and also no fault codes in my ECU (which i dont understand ) but replaced the crank sensor and its been fine 6 months now 🤷
Hi. There are a few different tests that you can conduct on the sensor to determine if it is faulty, but these can vary depending on what type of sensor you have and the manufacturer, so you would have to consult your vehicles schematic or repair manual in order to do this. Using the method we outline at 1:52 in this video, you can determine it is likely the sensor that is faulty if it has a good ground, good supply voltage and a good signal. Hope this helps!
Hi. Yes you can test the sensor's internal resistance, however a good reading will differ depending on the specific sensor you are testing. If you would like to test the sensor this way then we would recommend getting the data sheet for your sensor to determine what a good or bad reading would be.
May 30 2024 , great easy details video. Question, how do you test ECM and the 2 wires , that come from ECM and wires that goes to knock sensor voltage that goes to knock sensor ? Is it the same way to test the cam shaft wire , that you showed in this video. What setting is set of multimeter ?
Tim, at 6:53 into the video, the green sensor wire is unhooked. There is a green component depicted at the front of the ECU. Is the the resistor and the point inside the ECU module that senses the sensor return voltage? If not, what is it?
Hi Carl. Yes, you can use basically the same method for both the crank and cam sensors. We will be releasing a video specifically for the crankshaft position sensor soon so keep your eyes peeled!👀👍
I have an Audi A4 Quattro 2005 3 2L that has static P0390 and P346 codes. I replaced the camshaft position sensors but the problem persists. I cant find an ECU wiring diagram for this car anywhere.
Hey.. how about fault code P0344 what does that mean?? We have peugeot 2008 2018 model that throws P0344 error and sensor and wiring loom are fine.. what do you think is the problem???
Great video I am still trying to find out what my car will not start. Maybe you can point in right direction. Car sat for 6 years. It's a 1998 Volvo S70 GLT. I cleaned out fuel tank, replace fuel pump and fuel filter. I cleaned injectors. Car cranks has spark and fuel out the injectors. I thinking must be a sensor where the timing is not lining up with the spark and injected fuel. Any thoughts
Thanks for a very nice video! However I have problems with my sensor. It is a 2000 Volvo V40 and when reading the error code it says "ECM-32 Camshaft position (CMP) position sensor". So I checked the voltage from the ECU connectors according to your suggestion in the video and it was OK (+5V, +5V and battery voltage) so it should be the sensor. I then ordered a brand new sensor and replaced the old one and tried to erase the error code but it instantly comes back. I measured the resistance between pins on both sensors and it is exactly the same. Any suggestion how to proceed the investigation?
Did you complete the voltage checks at the sensor connector as well as the ECU connector? If the voltages at the connector are bad then the fault could be in the wiring from the ECU to the sensor. Also did you replace the sensor with an OEM part? Sometimes aftermarket parts can cause functionality issues even if they are the same part number.
@@Ecutestinglimited I followed the three steps in you very instructive video from time stamp 2:05 and measured +5V, +5V and also battery voltage. I even used an oscilloscope to record the pulse train from the sensor (yes, an OEM) when connected and it looked OK. I did the same with the original sensor and the pulse train was identical, sharp square wave signals. I haven´t followed the signal cable all the way back to the ECU and checked if the signal also is visible at the ECU input but will do that this evening. The cambelt was replaced 2 years ago by a shop but the car hasn't been driven a lot since then. Lets say the belt has jumped a cog, could that cause such an error on the camshaft sensor signal? I have also checked the VVT solenoid, cleaned it and when 12V is attached the slide moves. You see, I am almost becoming desperat...
@@Ecutestinglimited Today I measured the signal cable all the way from the transducer to the ECU connector and the cable was OK. Perhaps the error then is inside the ECU? I am starting to think that the error is due to bad cam shaft alignment. I will have a friend visiting me this week and he told me that when he was changing the cam belt on his V40 he manage to bend the tool holding the cam position just a little bit. He didn't notice that and when starting the engine he had exactly the same error code as I have. When adjusting the cam position the error disappeared. I have also checked the cam position and to me it looks like it is somewhat out of position so I have a small hope that this is the reason also for me. I will let you know as soon I know this for sure.
Problem solved! Today a friend visited me and he could, without a doubt, say just by looking at the cam ends that the positions were wrong. He loosened one of the two cog wheels and adjusted the inlet cam so it aligned with the other cam end using a special tool. After adjustment and ignition on it was possible to clear the cam shaft error code and it has not (yet!) returned. I am very happy! I have no explanation how this could happen. The screw on the cog wheel was very tight (not loose anyway) and the cam belt look almost new since I have only driven 12000 km since the replacement. What on earth could have caused this?
Hi. This is due to the ECU having an internal pull up resistor which pulls the voltage up in the signal circuit to 5v. When the camshaft sensor is unplugged, the signal wire is not connected to anything that could pull it to a lower voltage so you get a measurement 5V on the signal wire with the ignition on, as the ECU is basically seeing an open circuit through the pull-up resistor.
@@Ecutestinglimited thank you for the explanation. How would you know if your ecu has a pull-up or pull-down resistor without a diagram. Are most 3 pin work this way?
Missing from causes: a loose or worn reluctor. This is a common issue on Honda engines with a lot of miles where the sensor is not pointed at the ends of teeth on a gear but the side of a magnetized disc.
Hi, yes the basic principles will apply to the crankshaft position sensor. However we have done a video specifically for the crank sensor, so check it out here: ruclips.net/video/_wx7ZumykMc/видео.html
I have replaced camshaft sensors for the third time and I still get the same reading camshaft sensor bank 2 I’m not sure where I can take the ECU to be tested. I live in Wisconsin Madison.
Hi. We are located in the United Kingdom, but we do offer a worldwide service so you can get your unit tested and remanufactured no matter where you are! Fill in our online test form to get started: myaccount.ecutesting.com/ or contact our technical support team via email at info@ecutesting.com
I need help with e60 crank sensor. I've been testing it for 2 days. I can't trigger the sensor to see a voltage change. Another odd thing is that the signal drops from 5 to 2.5v when I plug in sensor. I've used scope to see any fluctuations when I rum magnet across it. Signal won't change, I've tried three sensors and 2 dme.
I'm confused, when taking out or cutting the wire I didn't see if this applies to the ground wire. If so then do I follow the ground to affect wire still or do I do it as it was shown which is switch wires red to + and black to affected ground wire?
Hi. If you have a reading that isn't battery voltage when testing the ground wire at the ECU, it could be that the wire is shorted to voltage. To test for this you should remove the ground wire's terminal from the ECU connector and test for voltage by placing the black probe on battery negative and the red probe on the removed terminal end of the ground wire. If there is any voltage displayed then there is a short to voltage affecting the ground wire which will need to be repaired. Hope this helps!
I'm having the reoccurring P0394 intermittent code with the ESC light coming on. I have replace the camshaft position sensor and tested the connector which is a four wire and each is getting 5 V and the negative is getting the battery reading. It’s a 2015 jeep JK wrangler any ideas? The code comes on when it’s under load, climbing a hill, even on the road and then it goes into limp home mode.
Hi. Have you tried completing the wiring tests whilst wiggling the wiring and connectors to see if there is an intermittent wiring fault caused by vibration whilst the engine is running? If this test checks out ok, then it may be an issue with the ECU. Feel free to email our technical support team at info@ecutesting.com with any other questions or if you would like to send your ECU into us for a test. Thanks.
Hi. I have a 1998, 175,000 miles, 3.3L. All stock. Driven like an old lady would drive it. Has thrown the EGR solenoid code since I've had it, the last 10,000 miles. I don't have emissions and don't perceive any driving or fuel economy issues so I've left it be. Mine has never died or not started. It is having intermittent random misfires though (P0300). Pretty rough at times, but only when it's not idling and being driven above 1,600ish RPMs. Gets worse as more load and RPMs is needed. Doesn't appear to be anything in distributor, plugs, or wires (all newish and coil pack checks good). It is worse sometimes than others, and present cold or hot. It seems to get worse after fuel is added too, but then settles down some after 20 or so miles. Coil checked good with 0.6 ohms primary winding, and 11,780 ohms secondary winding. Cap and rotor are good and only 10,000 miles used. So are plugs and wires. PCV valve good. No loss of any oil or coolant. Air intake filter new. Sound familiar to anyone? What fixed your constant random misfires? It does not misfire at idle RPMs, or while coasting down roadway either at any speed. Thanks!
What if you have 5v on two pins of the plug and continuity with ground on the other pin, just changed out the cam position sensor and still get a P0340 code? Damaged reluctor wheel or?
If you are getting any other fault codes alongside the P0391 then it is worth investigating them first as they could be causing the code. However, if you just have the P0391 then we would still recommend completing the checks outlined in this video to ensure the fault isn't with the sensor, wiring or ECU. If they all check out OK, then you could have a fault with mechanical components which will need to be investigated.
Greetings, I own a 1993 C3500 7.4 Truck & I cannot locate the crankshaft Position Sensor (CKG). I've seen references of between Harmonic Balancer & Timing Cover, in the Block above the oil pan, back of the block, or inside the Distributor. I've looked carefully, no loom wires, no port in timing cover, & I replaced the OEM Distributor with new OEM unit. Vehicle timing set to 4 degrees before TDC. Verified all spark plug & fuel inj. Vehicle starts, stalls, back fires.
HI this is a really good Video (and Have looked dozens to try and understand and resolve Sensor Issues) very very clear and very well explained, I only have a couple of comments if you spoke just a little slower that would be great and also if there was a slightly more detail description on the different configurations of sensors wiring for example on BMW's the signal is the middle wire .. also maybe a test of the actual sensor using something metal and the fact cheap sensors are usually Crap and you can replace them and the fault can still exist, also if you drop a sensor there is a good chance it will be damaged and can throw up a an intermittent fault which you cannot really test with a meter. not criticisms observations and im please to have found a company that can service repair ECU etc you guys clearly know what your doing ... again really really good video with visuals and diagrams (I know how long it takes to produce something like this) keep up the videos and the great work your efforts are much appreciated.. Regards Keith
You are welcome (and I practically never leave comments or reviews LOL) Will be in contact with a view to getting some ECU's over to you for repair fortunately when we replace stuff we don't throw anything potential repairable away ... BUT !! soooooooooo difficult to find people with relevant skill sets these days
Hi, i got a good question today.. .im working on a fier man of houston 2008 Toyota camry his car run hot i got him out the road the radiator burst so i replaced it tryed to start the car cank but no start so i looked at the spark plugs needed changing so i did and it had a code for crank sensor so i changed it also still no start the i look at spark from coils and the ark was small and puls ever 2 to 4 seconds what van i do to help hime out this jam
Very good. But I can't get any codes on a crank no-start (Corsa C). Two pedal test gives continuous flashes-- I counted up to a hundred; two cheap readers, then an Xtool D7 (360€) which I bought specifically to find the problem. Have 50psi on fuel rail, new plugs, removed throttle body and cleaned, sprayed MAF with correct cleaner, changed crankshaft sensor. It just fires and cuts out. A whole ago it ran for a whole 30secs, then 10 secs, now nothing. Any ideas PLEASE?
@@Ecutestinglimited Don't really understand the first part "using diagnostics", I thought that meant code reader which as I've said show no codes -- even the 2 pedal test is just continuously flashing (I counted to 100!). The ecu is not evident so I shall go rip some things off and get back to you. Thank you very much.
@@johncollins8304 Hi. Apologies, yes we were referring to your diagnostic scan tool the Xtool D7. We just wanted to confirm that you have done a full vehicle scan and found no fault codes and not just scanned for fault codes on the engine ECU itself? This is to confirm if the ECU has communications with the other modules on the vehicle and the fault you are describing isn't caused by a lack of communication.
The reading on the signal wire will be 5v due to the ECU having an internal pull up resistor in the signal circuit. When the camshaft sensor is unplugged, the signal wire is not connected to anything that could pull it to a lower voltage. The pull-up resistor ensures that the signal wire is pulled up to the ECU's reference voltage of 5V. This is why you measure 5V on the signal wire with the ignition on but the sensor unplugged; the ECU is essentially seeing an open circuit through the pull-up resistor.
Hi. A P0344 indicates an intermittent problem with the camshaft position sensor, so we would recommend completing all the checks outlined in this video whilst wiggling the wiring loom and connectors to the sensor and ECU. The fault will likely lie with either the sensor itself, the sensor's connector, the wiring between the sensor and ECU, the ECU connector, or the ECU. If you find the fault is with your ECU and would like it to be tested to confirm, please email our technical support team on info@ecutesting.com and they will be happy to assist. Thanks.
thanks, i actually had a mechanic come, pull out the camshaft position sensor and clean them, check all wirings.. all good. I have an OBD LUFI so i clear DTC and its gone, car works fine now.. @@Ecutestinglimited
I started my Fiat Ducato (2013 diesel) yesterday to drive it to the garage for a new timing belt + kit. It run badly, actually only ignition pulse to 2 of 4 cylinders. What else than a bad ECU can cause ignition pulse on 2 of 4 cylinders? What about a cam shaft position sensor or crank shaft position sensor? My garage said that they had never seen one of those bad and still being able to start the engine. Of course, all the cables need proper testing also, so far thay have found nothing wrong there, so they are suspecting the ECU/ECM. Any other leads? And, is all pulse signals 5V? I think they said they meassured 2V but I need to challange them on that because I have never heard of a 2V signal, only 5V but I am no car mechanich either.
Hi. Have you scanned the vehicle for any fault codes? This is to help pin point what on the vehicle could be causing the sudden cut out of acceleration. Thanks.
Sir i have a question, i have that exact van. Some days i can jump in and she runs great, the trans is sticking in what i believe to be 3rd gear, i stop, put it in park, restart it and it shifts like brand new. I see this happens mostly when goin close to 25mph. I have mechanic experience just not sure which sensors are which on transmission. I have been looking for the correct information for a few weeks now. If have any ideas where i should start, id just about pay you to pick your brain....thanks in advance. I know this is a long shot
Hello I’m having sensor issues with my car. It’s 4yo have several error codes that relate to camshaft sensors. Car went in to limp mode and eventually stalled. Mobile mechanic had it started about 30 mins later. Car would start and advised not to drive. Had it towed to dealership. It sat for 7 days. They now claim engine seized. Is this possible? Tow driver started the car same day it was dropped off…
Hi! I have a p0342 low voltage fault. However on the 5v terminal of the sensor connector I have the same voltage of my battery around 12.4/12.5. How is this possible? Shouldn't I receive a high voltage code instead?
Hi, I had a camshaft cancer fitted to my e39 1999 BMW series 5 the car kept going into limp mode. I was told it was definitely a camshaft censer.,I paid £100 + vat part genuine BMW .that cost £100.+vat. The car was ok no probs. However when the car became Hot ie in traffic and during hot weather now and then all the warning lights flashed, car staled , then I restarted it and it would be ok for a while.recently it did the same on and off. I told the garage and asked could it be the camshaft cancer.I was told No. must be something els. Poss another censor.what do you suggest mate. Where are you based. I’m in south London. Thanks so much.👍
Hi. We would recommend getting the vehicle scanned for fault codes, as the car stalling when warm could be caused by numerous sensors and/or other components on the vehicle. We are based in Derbyshire in the United Kingdom, so if you have any other questions please feel free to contact our technical support team by phone on +44 1773 535638 or via email on info@ecutesting.com
@@Ecutestinglimited thank you very much.I will get car scanned .there’s a BMW Specialist’s in Windsor. When the car first went into Limp mode.the previous owner had used that garage.Highly recommended.I called them and spoke to a guy his name is Mick.told him I bought the car of an elderly gentleman in Dorset.gave them the reg. and mike said Oh yes we remember the car and mark. I told the guy about the Limp mode and straight he said Camshaft censor.other garages said bring it in leave it with us and we will carry out tests ect.NO Way.leave it with us. £ching ching ching. I took my car to Windsor the garage is called K@M Auto Technics.guys are Straight, no Bull***t they charge £90.per hour .But no Naughty Lies.other garages in and outside Windsor use them to sort out the problems with there customers BMW.Kevin and Mike are well Respected. Like you are. And Trusted. Recently I Aloud a mechanic friend of mine change the oil and filter .but wouldn’t trust him to mess with other bitts on the car. Either he or one of his friends pulled the bonnet release handle to fk Hard. I watched oil and filter being removed. Left the car dripping old oil until it completely empty.about 30/40 minutes.I fitted the quality oil filter and poured in the new quality oil.waited on and off topping it up.wiped off minimal oil drips. Virtuly none cos I’m to fussy.I always gently lower the bonnet and click it shut.I did it exactly as always .gave my mate £25. For using his ramps and despising of my out oil.got home. Left the car standing for 40 mins.then wanted to recheck oil level and filter .ie weeps .gently pulled the bonnet release handle it felt loose.then went to open the bonnet but only the drivers side clip was released. Could not lift the bonnet.then I knew it’s reason was because one of the thick Apes had pulled the handle sharply or to fk hardi got my son to operate the handle as I carefully put even presure on the front of the bonnet it bouncing it and with open palms slapped the bonnet. And I managed to open it. Done my checks all ok.topped up screen wash.as usual cleaned engine,and other areas with a wad 40 damp cloth.checked water levels . Sprayed silicone oil mixed with wad 40 on and in between all catches on the top of the cross plate and on the front part of the bonnet where both bonnet and cross plate catches meet.so now I’ve got to see if the bonnet cable to the near side is damaged. Or the latch is damaged.seen cables on eBay. Reasonably priced looks an easy job replacing the cable,or cables. I’m a fussy guy .always take propper care of my vehicles.shut doors gently.silicon oil in window canals ,cleaning all door shuts ,under the cills.I treat my cars with Respect.and my old transit van.once a year I take off the wheels, clean the inner sides, wire brush the rust of the wheel hubs and clean all around the hubs and callipers and pads with proper break cleaner.if I’m taking people out or picking them up.I open and I shut the doors.Because people Slam them bloody hard shut. Destroys the rubbers, damages the window electric motors.so thanks for your kind Honest Advise Sir. Great channel. Interesting . Take care and kindest regards m8.
Hi. No, a P0545 fault code is usually caused by a faulty exhaust gas temperature (EGT) sensor, the wiring or connectors associated with it, or the ECU's ability to communicate with the sensor.
I've Ford Transit mk8 2017 im getting error code P0341, the car cranks but doesn't start. I followed you instructions step by step and I'm getting 12.6V, 5.01V and 4.98V. I've also tested the sensor it's good but I've replaced it into new one, any other thing you might think about it please?
Both signal and reference reading 12v . Fault code P0341. Car starts just fine but runs with irregular performance. Car would run fine in the morning after startup, but once Car warms up, car becomes sluggish with a lot of hesitations when giving it gas. Please help
the part where you test the wires to the cam sensor on the ecu side doesn’t make sense, you can’t just test them they’re plugged into the ecu connector and would lose power if you unplug the connector. where would you be able to test the power on the ecu connection side with it plugged in still
Hi. You can test the wires on the ECU connector when it is plugged in by back probing the wires behind the connector. We have a video that details how to do this on our channel: ruclips.net/video/S8GL8VCg7C8/видео.html Watch from 2:20 onwards for steps on how to back probe. Hope this helps!
CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME HOW TO TEST INTERMITTENT P0344 /TRACTION LIGHT THAT TRIGGERED ONLY WHEN I HIT A HEAVY BUMP, WHEN I SHUT THE ENGINE OFF EVRYTHING BACK TO NORMAL AND HE JEEP STARTED FINE???
Hello I have a problem with my Pontiac g6 GT 2009 3.5 liter engine. It’ll over heat when I’ll drive it for more than 30min and won’t turn on shortly after I want to turn it back on I’ll wait 1hr to cool down and it’ll start back up again.
It depends on the vehicle, as some modern vehicles use the camshaft signal to control the fuel pump relay so you would have to look at your vehicle's specific technical information to confirm.
So If I only have a P0341 code does that mean that my camshaft is bad ? I had this issue for over a year but was not wiling to pay the 4k€ asked from Jag to "fix the issue". I didn't trust them as they said the camshaft sensor could not be swapped out (it's litteraly 1 T30 screw). The only other symptom I have is a delayed start. (No power loses, not engine counting, nothing else). Any help from someone ?
Hi. A P0341 is likely caused by either a faulty sensor, the sensor's wiring or connector, or the ECU as we have mentioned in the video. Typically P0341 is caused by an intermittent fault so a potential quick check to complete would be inspecting the sensor connector for any corrosion, damaged pins, or terminals with poor tension. You can also complete this check at the ECU. If they both look ok, then we would recommend following the steps outlined in this video to determine if the sensor, wiring, or ECU is at fault. But as you have the P0341 code, we would recommend completing all checks whilst wiggling the wiring loom between the sensor and ECU, as engine vibration could be the reason the fault is intermittent. Hope this helps!
@@Ecutestinglimited thank you very much for you reply. I have already swapped out the sensor for a new one but nothing has changed. I'll try out the electrical connections and ECU next weekend. Excellent video by the way
@@yohansharp3040 Thank you, we are glad you liked the video! If you need any further assistance or believe your ECU is at fault, please email our technical support team on info@ecutesting.com and they will be happy to advise you on what the next steps are.
@@Ecutestinglimited Checked the wiring from the connector. Got a 12V for Ground, a 5V for the +, and 0,02V for the signal. Thanks for the help, i'll look into getting the wiring checked up
Hi. Changing the camshaft sensors should not directly cause your ignition to become locked. If your ignition is locked, it's more likely related to the key, ignition cylinder, steering wheel lock, or an issue with the anti-theft system (if equipped). We recommend checking if the steering wheel is in a locked position, as this can sometimes make it difficult to turn the key. If that doesn't work we would recommend getting the vehicle scanned for fault codes to help pin point the cause of the fault. Thanks.
Hi. Please contact our technical support team via email at info@ecutesting.com with the information you have provided in your message above, as well as any additional fault information you can give including diagnostic fault codes, symptoms and any testing/fixes you have already carried out. They will be happy to advise you of any re-build solution we can provide.
I have error code P0016 on my XC70, switched camshaft sensor, VVT, cambelt and waterpump, oil and filter, sparkplugs, and still get that damn engine light shining bright, can it be the crankshaft sensor?
Hi. A P0016 could certainly be caused by a faulty crankshaft sensor. Please follow our video guide here: ruclips.net/video/_wx7ZumykMc/видео.html on how to test a crankshaft sensor circuit, and this will help narrow down the cause of the code.
I have a friend that has a 2010 2.5 Toyota Camry he hit a deer with the car and now won't start not receiving any readout to the crank sensor as I unplugged the crank sensor and checked from the 3 pins and no read out with key turned on.so do I check the other plug ends within that harness leading back to the ECM?
Yes, we would recommend completing the same test by back probing all 3 wires at the ECU connector to determine if the fault is within the wiring loom or the ECU itself.
Theres a button in the trunk you might have to push after a collision of sorts. It shuts off the fuel pump. Its called an inertia switch i think. It will be on the driver side in the trunk
Hi. A P0365 indicates a problem with the Camshaft sensor 'B' circuit. If you have already replaced both sensors then we would recommend completing the circuit checks in this video from 1:52 onwards to determine if the sensor has a good ground, is receiving the correct power supply, and that it is outputting a good signal. The fault will likely lie with either the connector to the sensor, the wiring loom from the sensor to the ECU, or with the ECU itself. Hope this helps.
Hello from Oamaru, South island New Zealand. I have a 2012 Spanish built Nissan Navara D40 St-X Diesel pickup. Engine is a Nissan - Renault partnership common rail with 165.000 K.m on clock. When idling it's lumpy then when attempting to accelerate it farts n missis then dies. It smokes a really white Hazy putrid smoke but no oil in coolant nor coolant in sump. There's no fuel dilution in oil sump. It starts but struggle.. S.c.v, e.g.r cooler replaced (but didn't require so) injectors tested fine. E.g.r valve actuator works fine. Any idea what may cause this grief?... Crank n cam sensors?. No codes come up. Thanks again in advance..Carl
Hi. Apologies but I'm not sure we do say that in the video? At 2:46 we say if the wiring to the sensor is ok then the sensor itself is faulty. There are a few different tests that you can conduct on the sensor to determine if it is faulty, but these can vary depending on what type of sensor you have and the manufacturer, so you would have to consult your vehicles schematic or repair manual in order to do this.
Hi. A camshaft controls the opening and closing of the engine's valves due to 'lobes' or 'cams' pushing up against the valves as the camshaft rotates, which allows the intake of fuel-air mixture into the pistons as well as the release of exhaust gasses. The crankshaft converts the reciprocating motion of the pistons into rotational motion, transferring power to the transmission. It is connected to the pistons through connecting rods and converts the up-and-down motion into a circular motion. Both the crank and cam sensors monitor the rotational position and speed of each of these and relay this information back to the ECU for optimal and efficient valve timing and engine operation. Hope this help!
Hi. The code P0321 relates to the crankshaft position sensor (also known as the engine speed sensor) rather than the camshaft sensor. The testing methods for both of these sensors is fairly similar, however we will be shortly releasing a video specifically about the crankshaft position sensor which will go into more detail!
🤓Want to find out more about ECU diagnostics? 🔎 Click here: ➡link.ecutesting.com/Camshaft
How common is it for the P0340 code to really be a broken timing chain?
G wall repair ECUs from the United States?
I'm a retired mechanic great video simple direct to the point great information not over complicated great video
A mechanic must not retire as there are a lot of problems to solve 😂
I am also a retired mechanic but today's vehicles are very time consuming and I still have my old broham and it has points a coil and carby and to be honest I like the simplicity and the cost of a service that I am still doing myself and I will probably just keep the old girl running.
@@MosesNkosy😂💯
Finally somebody that really understands this issue!
Excellent video. I have a customer with four persistent fault codes for a wheel speed sensor and cam position sensor, instead of letting me perform tests to find the cause, he's purchased and had me install... 3 cam position sensors, and one wheel speed sensor... with no results. I'm hoping he'll allow me to actually diagnose the issue after the wheel speed sensor $$$$ didn't fix it... which I told him wouldn't fix it.
I'm gonna send him this video, it explains the diagnostic process way better than me.
Thank you, we've glad you liked the video! Hopefully your customer likes it too and you can get them back on the road ASAP 🙏 We also have a brief video on wheel speed sensor faults as well if it would help: ruclips.net/video/T74B_aELnU0/видео.html
easy way out of all this to 'clone' over an identical car, swop over his number plates, and give him the bill to cover the replacement car 🙂
@sollykhan2385 was this supposed to be funny? Or are you serious 🤔
@@kylemcweeny878i thought it was hilarious😂
@@kylemcweeny878he mekanik, mekanik funne.....😂
Thank You very much for this complete video about test and fix a constant camshaft position problem. I was driving myself crazy trying to figure it out until I saw you video. Thanks to this I was able to fix my camshaft position sensor P0342 in a 2007 Hummer H2. Thank you.
Amazing! We're glad you found our video useful and managed to diagnose your fault!
I would like to share one condition that doesn't seem to be covered in this diagnostic methodology which has occurred in my experiences working as a professional diagnostic tech over the years. When testing for reference voltage at the sensor it is critical to be aware that there may be other sensors such as MAP, TPS, crankshaft position sensor and others which may be sharing the same reference voltage supplied by the PCM. These other sensors can have an internal short which could be shorting out the supply within the PCM causing low or no voltage at the cam sensor and or PCM potentially causing a misdiagnosis if not aware. I have also had what appeared to be a dead PCM on some cars when this reference was shorted to ground causing a PCM no response. I hope this helps anyone out there and Thank You for the video and the simplicity of your explanation when performing diagnostics.
This would be picked up when measuring the de-pinned wire.
It worked well. The radio and while making a Bluetooth call, they both would shut off for a few seconds and then come back on over and over, and I would lose power steering sometimes too. The check engine light came on and that's when I had Auto Zone give me a diagnostic trouble code, and it was showing the power train system, and ABS. Sure enough though, and the attendant tried to sell me a power train system for $456.90, but she made the mistake of saying that the codes just needed to be reset and that when I found this, and two other videos telling me to do this. Thank you very much!
Very informtive and complete video!
I got lucky!
On my 2007 Murano, I used a 10mm ratching wrench and did not have to move the hose. Just before pulling the sensor, I blew out the connector and the sensor pins in place with electronics cleaner and all codes went away. So I never even had to pull the sensor!
I was showing P0345(Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2), P0725(Engine speed input circuit), P1701(Power supply circuit), P0868 (Transmission fluid low). The last 3 are Nissan OEM codes. I'm not smart enough to know if those should be all related, but I can see where all but the P0868 could be related, maybe?
Anyway, Thanks for saving me time and money!
I will update if any of them come back.😎
Hi I was wondering what your outcome was I have the same issues with the same vehicle make and year with the same codes except my camshaft code is p0340 instead of p0345
Thank you for posting another awesome video Tim, just as an afterthought how much investment went into your state of the Art workshops ? i must say it looks very impressive, hopefully 1 day i too shall have an impressive repair shop like the one your filming in!! 🙂
The best video I have ever seen on this topic!🔥💥💯👍
Great presentation of information in simple terms. Your animation and explanation game is on point!
A very clear concise and informative video on camshaft sensor related issues thank you
This is so nice. Can u open the workshop in indonesia? Never seen this holistic test like this in here
Well done for your great video!
Because here in Greece, car electricians don't know how to measure anything, and we pay a lot of money. Thanks!
Do you rebuild all ecu or just certain ones
Hi. We re-build hundreds of different ECUs, please visit our website www.ecutesting.com and search for your unit's part number. If you cannot find your part number on our website then please email our technical support team on info@ecutesting.com and they will advise you on any re-build services we can provide. Thanks.
The best Video on the Topic.... To the point and great way to approach to the fault... Thumbs Up!!
Great video! Thank you!
I drive a 2012 Jeep Wrangler that frequently throws PO 369 and more recently PO365 and goes into limp mode. Would these tests be appropriate to diagnose these? Thanks
Hi. Yes, the codes P0365 and P0369 indicate a fault with the camshaft 'B' sensor so completing all the checks outline in the video would help differentiate if the fault is with the sensor, its wiring, or the ECU.
Can you direct me to the correct pin removal tool for my 2012 Jeep Wrangler jk? Thanks very much.
Excellent video Sir , just wanted to know where did you buy that radiator for les than 200. Hi bucks ? Thanks a million.
Yo Tim, very succinct and absolutely 'on point' .... most informative for any 'shade tree' techie! Thank you.
shade tree' techie 🤨🤔
My question is what if its an intermittent problem with the crank positioning itself , hard starting some days , no start then an hour later starts up . If you perform the test you did and all is well and also no fault codes in my ECU (which i dont understand ) but replaced the crank sensor and its been fine 6 months now 🤷
Great video. I just subscribed, all the diagnostic detail you provided was fantastic.
A great elaborate diagnostic procedures,thanks for the video
Hi, how do I test the car camshaft sensor it self, what kind of readings should I be seen
Hi. There are a few different tests that you can conduct on the sensor to determine if it is faulty, but these can vary depending on what type of sensor you have and the manufacturer, so you would have to consult your vehicles schematic or repair manual in order to do this. Using the method we outline at 1:52 in this video, you can determine it is likely the sensor that is faulty if it has a good ground, good supply voltage and a good signal. Hope this helps!
Is there a way to measure the sensor itself? Expected resistance reading between given contacts for known good sensor?
Hi. Yes you can test the sensor's internal resistance, however a good reading will differ depending on the specific sensor you are testing. If you would like to test the sensor this way then we would recommend getting the data sheet for your sensor to determine what a good or bad reading would be.
@@EcutestinglimitedThank you.
May 30 2024 , great easy details video. Question, how do you test ECM and the 2 wires , that come from ECM and wires that goes to knock sensor voltage that goes to knock sensor ? Is it the same way to test the cam shaft wire , that you showed in this video.
What setting is set of multimeter ?
What does a 10v reading signify on signal wire, please?
Tim, at 6:53 into the video, the green sensor wire is unhooked. There is a green component depicted at the front of the ECU. Is the the resistor and the point inside the ECU module that senses the sensor return voltage? If not, what is it?
Can you use same method to diagnose crankshaft position sensor?
Hi Carl. Yes, you can use basically the same method for both the crank and cam sensors. We will be releasing a video specifically for the crankshaft position sensor soon so keep your eyes peeled!👀👍
I have an Audi A4 Quattro 2005 3
2L that has static P0390 and P346 codes. I replaced the camshaft position sensors but the problem persists. I cant find an ECU wiring diagram for this car anywhere.
Hey.. how about fault code P0344 what does that mean??
We have peugeot 2008 2018 model that throws P0344 error and sensor and wiring loom are fine.. what do you think is the problem???
Great video I am still trying to find out what my car will not start. Maybe you can point in right direction. Car sat for 6 years. It's a 1998 Volvo S70 GLT. I cleaned out fuel tank, replace fuel pump and fuel filter. I cleaned injectors. Car cranks has spark and fuel out the injectors. I thinking must be a sensor where the timing is not lining up with the spark and injected fuel. Any thoughts
Thanks for a very nice video! However I have problems with my sensor. It is a 2000 Volvo V40 and when reading the error code it says "ECM-32 Camshaft position (CMP) position sensor". So I checked the voltage from the ECU connectors according to your suggestion in the video and it was OK (+5V, +5V and battery voltage) so it should be the sensor. I then ordered a brand new sensor and replaced the old one and tried to erase the error code but it instantly comes back. I measured the resistance between pins on both sensors and it is exactly the same. Any suggestion how to proceed the investigation?
Did you complete the voltage checks at the sensor connector as well as the ECU connector? If the voltages at the connector are bad then the fault could be in the wiring from the ECU to the sensor. Also did you replace the sensor with an OEM part? Sometimes aftermarket parts can cause functionality issues even if they are the same part number.
@@Ecutestinglimited I followed the three steps in you very instructive video from time stamp 2:05 and measured +5V, +5V and also battery voltage. I even used an oscilloscope to record the pulse train from the sensor (yes, an OEM) when connected and it looked OK. I did the same with the original sensor and the pulse train was identical, sharp square wave signals. I haven´t followed the signal cable all the way back to the ECU and checked if the signal also is visible at the ECU input but will do that this evening.
The cambelt was replaced 2 years ago by a shop but the car hasn't been driven a lot since then. Lets say the belt has jumped a cog, could that cause such an error on the camshaft sensor signal? I have also checked the VVT solenoid, cleaned it and when 12V is attached the slide moves. You see, I am almost becoming desperat...
@@Ecutestinglimited Today I measured the signal cable all the way from the transducer to the ECU connector and the cable was OK. Perhaps the error then is inside the ECU? I am starting to think that the error is due to bad cam shaft alignment. I will have a friend visiting me this week and he told me that when he was changing the cam belt on his V40 he manage to bend the tool holding the cam position just a little bit. He didn't notice that and when starting the engine he had exactly the same error code as I have. When adjusting the cam position the error disappeared. I have also checked the cam position and to me it looks like it is somewhat out of position so I have a small hope that this is the reason also for me. I will let you know as soon I know this for sure.
Problem solved! Today a friend visited me and he could, without a doubt, say just by looking at the cam ends that the positions were wrong. He loosened one of the two cog wheels and adjusted the inlet cam so it aligned with the other cam end using a special tool. After adjustment and ignition on it was possible to clear the cam shaft error code and it has not (yet!) returned. I am very happy! I have no explanation how this could happen. The screw on the cog wheel was very tight (not loose anyway) and the cam belt look almost new since I have only driven 12000 km since the replacement. What on earth could have caused this?
@@duetten Maybe the timing belt was replaced without using camshaft/crankshaft locks.
How can you get 5v at the signal wire at the ecu, when the sensor is unplugged and nothing is being send to the ecu?
Hi. This is due to the ECU having an internal pull up resistor which pulls the voltage up in the signal circuit to 5v. When the camshaft sensor is unplugged, the signal wire is not connected to anything that could pull it to a lower voltage so you get a measurement 5V on the signal wire with the ignition on, as the ECU is basically seeing an open circuit through the pull-up resistor.
@@Ecutestinglimited thank you for the explanation. How would you know if your ecu has a pull-up or pull-down resistor without a diagram. Are most 3 pin work this way?
thank you @Ecutestinglimited, I found a video which explains how to tell if you have a pull up or pull down circuit .
Missing from causes: a loose or worn reluctor. This is a common issue on Honda engines with a lot of miles where the sensor is not pointed at the ends of teeth on a gear but the side of a magnetized disc.
Will this apply for the Ckp p0335?
Hi, yes the basic principles will apply to the crankshaft position sensor. However we have done a video specifically for the crank sensor, so check it out here: ruclips.net/video/_wx7ZumykMc/видео.html
I have replaced camshaft sensors for the third time and I still get the same reading camshaft sensor bank 2 I’m not sure where I can take the ECU to be tested. I live in Wisconsin Madison.
I had the same issue so i replaced the crank sensor and the problem went away
Hi. We are located in the United Kingdom, but we do offer a worldwide service so you can get your unit tested and remanufactured no matter where you are! Fill in our online test form to get started: myaccount.ecutesting.com/ or contact our technical support team via email at info@ecutesting.com
Thank you so much. Because of this video, I was able to successfully troubleshoot my sensor today 👍
This is the type post I really like, you provide an education. Thank you!!
I need help with e60 crank sensor. I've been testing it for 2 days. I can't trigger the sensor to see a voltage change.
Another odd thing is that the signal drops from 5 to 2.5v when I plug in sensor. I've used scope to see any fluctuations when I rum magnet across it.
Signal won't change, I've tried three sensors and 2 dme.
I'm confused, when taking out or cutting the wire I didn't see if this applies to the ground wire. If so then do I follow the ground to affect wire still or do I do it as it was shown which is switch wires red to + and black to affected ground wire?
Hi. If you have a reading that isn't battery voltage when testing the ground wire at the ECU, it could be that the wire is shorted to voltage. To test for this you should remove the ground wire's terminal from the ECU connector and test for voltage by placing the black probe on battery negative and the red probe on the removed terminal end of the ground wire. If there is any voltage displayed then there is a short to voltage affecting the ground wire which will need to be repaired. Hope this helps!
I'm having the reoccurring P0394 intermittent code with the ESC light coming on. I have replace the camshaft position sensor and tested the connector which is a four wire and each is getting 5 V and the negative is getting the battery reading. It’s a 2015 jeep JK wrangler any ideas? The code comes on when it’s under load, climbing a hill, even on the road and then it goes into limp home mode.
Hi. Have you tried completing the wiring tests whilst wiggling the wiring and connectors to see if there is an intermittent wiring fault caused by vibration whilst the engine is running? If this test checks out ok, then it may be an issue with the ECU. Feel free to email our technical support team at info@ecutesting.com with any other questions or if you would like to send your ECU into us for a test. Thanks.
Outstanding video...great information and expertise. Thanks
Hi. I have a
1998, 175,000 miles, 3.3L. All stock. Driven like an old lady would drive it.
Has thrown the EGR solenoid code since I've had it, the last 10,000 miles. I don't have emissions and don't perceive any driving or fuel economy issues so I've left it be.
Mine has never died or not started. It is having intermittent random misfires though (P0300). Pretty rough at times, but only when it's not idling and being driven above 1,600ish RPMs. Gets worse as more load and RPMs is needed. Doesn't appear to be anything in distributor, plugs, or wires (all newish and coil pack checks good). It is worse sometimes than others, and present cold or hot. It seems to get worse after fuel is added too, but then settles down some after 20 or so miles.
Coil checked good with 0.6 ohms primary winding, and 11,780 ohms secondary winding. Cap and rotor are good and only 10,000 miles used. So are plugs and wires. PCV valve good. No loss of any oil or coolant. Air intake filter new.
Sound familiar to anyone? What fixed your constant random misfires? It does not misfire at idle RPMs, or while coasting down roadway either at any speed.
Thanks!
Great video, very detailed yet clear to understand. Thank you for sharing this.
What if you have 5v on two pins of the plug and continuity with ground on the other pin, just changed out the cam position sensor and still get a P0340 code? Damaged reluctor wheel or?
Should a bmw x5 camshaft not have pin1 5v pin 2 ground pin 3 12v ? Thanks
You talk about low voltage and high voltage, what about Implausible signal, mine shows Camshaft position sensor P0391 - Implausible Signal
If you are getting any other fault codes alongside the P0391 then it is worth investigating them first as they could be causing the code. However, if you just have the P0391 then we would still recommend completing the checks outlined in this video to ensure the fault isn't with the sensor, wiring or ECU. If they all check out OK, then you could have a fault with mechanical components which will need to be investigated.
Great video. Is P1019 cam sensor fault code in dacia jogger?
Very well done and I love learning more about my Subaru. Great help and thanks!
Greetings, I own a 1993 C3500 7.4 Truck & I cannot locate the crankshaft Position Sensor (CKG).
I've seen references of between Harmonic Balancer & Timing Cover, in the Block above the oil pan, back of the block, or inside the Distributor. I've looked carefully, no loom wires, no port in timing cover, & I replaced the OEM Distributor with new OEM unit.
Vehicle timing set to 4 degrees before TDC. Verified all spark plug & fuel inj.
Vehicle starts, stalls, back fires.
HI this is a really good Video (and Have looked dozens to try and understand and resolve Sensor Issues) very very clear and very well explained, I only have a couple of comments if you spoke just a little slower that would be great and also if there was a slightly more detail description on the different configurations of sensors wiring for example on BMW's the signal is the middle wire .. also maybe a test of the actual sensor using something metal and the fact cheap sensors are usually Crap and you can replace them and the fault can still exist, also if you drop a sensor there is a good chance it will be damaged and can throw up a an intermittent fault which you cannot really test with a meter. not criticisms observations and im please to have found a company that can service repair ECU etc you guys clearly know what your doing ... again really really good video with visuals and diagrams (I know how long it takes to produce something like this) keep up the videos and the great work your efforts are much appreciated.. Regards Keith
Hi Keith. Thank you for your feedback, we appreciate it. We are glad you liked the video and thank you for you kind comments!
You are welcome (and I practically never leave comments or reviews LOL) Will be in contact with a view to getting some ECU's over to you for repair fortunately when we replace stuff we don't throw anything potential repairable away ... BUT !! soooooooooo difficult to find people with relevant skill sets these days
Hi, i got a good question today.. .im working on a fier man of houston 2008 Toyota camry his car run hot i got him out the road the radiator burst so i replaced it tryed to start the car cank but no start so i looked at the spark plugs needed changing so i did and it had a code for crank sensor so i changed it also still no start the i look at spark from coils and the ark was small and puls ever 2 to 4 seconds what van i do to help hime out this jam
Very good. But I can't get any codes on a crank no-start (Corsa C). Two pedal test gives continuous flashes-- I counted up to a hundred; two cheap readers, then an Xtool D7 (360€) which I bought specifically to find the problem. Have 50psi on fuel rail, new plugs, removed throttle body and cleaned, sprayed MAF with correct cleaner, changed crankshaft sensor. It just fires and cuts out. A whole ago it ran for a whole 30secs, then 10 secs, now nothing. Any ideas PLEASE?
Hi. Are you able to communicate with the ECU using diagnostics? Are you also able to get the part number on the ECU unit please?
@@Ecutestinglimited Don't really understand the first part "using diagnostics", I thought that meant code reader which as I've said show no codes -- even the 2 pedal test is just continuously flashing (I counted to 100!). The ecu is not evident so I shall go rip some things off and get back to you. Thank you very much.
@@johncollins8304 Hi. Apologies, yes we were referring to your diagnostic scan tool the Xtool D7. We just wanted to confirm that you have done a full vehicle scan and found no fault codes and not just scanned for fault codes on the engine ECU itself? This is to confirm if the ECU has communications with the other modules on the vehicle and the fault you are describing isn't caused by a lack of communication.
My Mercedes w208 have Error: 067 camshaft position sensor L5/1 signal implausibil/missing,, Thank's for your information,i will try tommorow
Why do you read 5v on signal wire?
The reading on the signal wire will be 5v due to the ECU having an internal pull up resistor in the signal circuit. When the camshaft sensor is unplugged, the signal wire is not connected to anything that could pull it to a lower voltage. The pull-up resistor ensures that the signal wire is pulled up to the ECU's reference voltage of 5V. This is why you measure 5V on the signal wire with the ignition on but the sensor unplugged; the ECU is essentially seeing an open circuit through the pull-up resistor.
What about p0344? I have it on my 22 civic, pls help?? 😢
Hi. A P0344 indicates an intermittent problem with the camshaft position sensor, so we would recommend completing all the checks outlined in this video whilst wiggling the wiring loom and connectors to the sensor and ECU. The fault will likely lie with either the sensor itself, the sensor's connector, the wiring between the sensor and ECU, the ECU connector, or the ECU. If you find the fault is with your ECU and would like it to be tested to confirm, please email our technical support team on info@ecutesting.com and they will be happy to assist. Thanks.
thanks, i actually had a mechanic come, pull out the camshaft position sensor and clean them, check all wirings.. all good. I have an OBD LUFI so i clear DTC and its gone, car works fine now.. @@Ecutestinglimited
Plz make video detail on oscilloscope how to use
I started my Fiat Ducato (2013 diesel) yesterday to drive it to the garage for a new timing belt + kit. It run badly, actually only ignition pulse to 2 of 4 cylinders. What else than a bad ECU can cause ignition pulse on 2 of 4 cylinders? What about a cam shaft position sensor or crank shaft position sensor? My garage said that they had never seen one of those bad and still being able to start the engine. Of course, all the cables need proper testing also, so far thay have found nothing wrong there, so they are suspecting the ECU/ECM. Any other leads? And, is all pulse signals 5V? I think they said they meassured 2V but I need to challange them on that because I have never heard of a 2V signal, only 5V but I am no car mechanich either.
I have a car with this and it Completely stopped accelerating is it possible it just went constantly out or do you think its something more now
Hi. Have you scanned the vehicle for any fault codes? This is to help pin point what on the vehicle could be causing the sudden cut out of acceleration. Thanks.
Sir i have a question, i have that exact van. Some days i can jump in and she runs great, the trans is sticking in what i believe to be 3rd gear, i stop, put it in park, restart it and it shifts like brand new. I see this happens mostly when goin close to 25mph. I have mechanic experience just not sure which sensors are which on transmission. I have been looking for the correct information for a few weeks now. If have any ideas where i should start, id just about pay you to pick your brain....thanks in advance. I know this is a long shot
Hello I’m having sensor issues with my car. It’s 4yo have several error codes that relate to camshaft sensors. Car went in to limp mode and eventually stalled. Mobile mechanic had it started about 30 mins later. Car would start and advised not to drive. Had it towed to dealership. It sat for 7 days. They now claim engine seized. Is this possible? Tow driver started the car same day it was dropped off…
Hey you are a great teacher man! Your videos are great!!🎉
Hi! I have a p0342 low voltage fault. However on the 5v terminal of the sensor connector I have the same voltage of my battery around 12.4/12.5. How is this possible? Shouldn't I receive a high voltage code instead?
Hi, I had a camshaft cancer fitted to my e39 1999 BMW series 5 the car kept going into limp mode. I was told it was definitely a camshaft censer.,I paid £100 + vat part genuine BMW .that cost £100.+vat. The car was ok no probs. However when the car became Hot ie in traffic and during hot weather now and then all the warning lights flashed, car staled , then I restarted it and it would be ok for a while.recently it did the same on and off. I told the garage and asked could it be the camshaft cancer.I was told No. must be something els. Poss another censor.what do you suggest mate. Where are you based. I’m in south London. Thanks so much.👍
Hi. We would recommend getting the vehicle scanned for fault codes, as the car stalling when warm could be caused by numerous sensors and/or other components on the vehicle. We are based in Derbyshire in the United Kingdom, so if you have any other questions please feel free to contact our technical support team by phone on +44 1773 535638 or via email on info@ecutesting.com
@@Ecutestinglimited thank you very much.I will get car scanned .there’s a BMW Specialist’s in Windsor. When the car first went into Limp mode.the previous owner had used that garage.Highly recommended.I called them and spoke to a guy his name is Mick.told him I bought the car of an elderly gentleman in Dorset.gave them the reg. and mike said Oh yes we remember the car and mark. I told the guy about the Limp mode and straight he said Camshaft censor.other garages said bring it in leave it with us and we will carry out tests ect.NO Way.leave it with us. £ching ching ching. I took my car to Windsor the garage is called K@M Auto Technics.guys are Straight, no Bull***t they charge £90.per hour .But no Naughty Lies.other garages in and outside Windsor use them to sort out the problems with there customers BMW.Kevin and Mike are well Respected. Like you are. And Trusted. Recently I Aloud a mechanic friend of mine change the oil and filter .but wouldn’t trust him to mess with other bitts on the car. Either he or one of his friends pulled the bonnet release handle to fk Hard. I watched oil and filter being removed. Left the car dripping old oil until it completely empty.about 30/40 minutes.I fitted the quality oil filter and poured in the new quality oil.waited on and off topping it up.wiped off minimal oil drips. Virtuly none cos I’m to fussy.I always gently lower the bonnet and click it shut.I did it exactly as always .gave my mate £25. For using his ramps and despising of my out oil.got home. Left the car standing for 40 mins.then wanted to recheck oil level and filter .ie weeps .gently pulled the bonnet release handle it felt loose.then went to open the bonnet but only the drivers side clip was released. Could not lift the bonnet.then I knew it’s reason was because one of the thick Apes had pulled the handle sharply or to fk hardi got my son to operate the handle as I carefully put even presure on the front of the bonnet it bouncing it and with open palms slapped the bonnet. And I managed to open it. Done my checks all ok.topped up screen wash.as usual cleaned engine,and other areas with a wad 40 damp cloth.checked water levels . Sprayed silicone oil mixed with wad 40 on and in between all catches on the top of the cross plate and on the front part of the bonnet where both bonnet and cross plate catches meet.so now I’ve got to see if the bonnet cable to the near side is damaged. Or the latch is damaged.seen cables on eBay. Reasonably priced looks an easy job replacing the cable,or cables. I’m a fussy guy .always take propper care of my vehicles.shut doors gently.silicon oil in window canals ,cleaning all door shuts ,under the cills.I treat my cars with Respect.and my old transit van.once a year I take off the wheels, clean the inner sides, wire brush the rust of the wheel hubs and clean all around the hubs and callipers and pads with proper break cleaner.if I’m taking people out or picking them up.I open and I shut the doors.Because people Slam them bloody hard shut. Destroys the rubbers, damages the window electric motors.so thanks for your kind Honest Advise Sir. Great channel. Interesting . Take care and kindest regards m8.
Would a P0545 be this problem?
Hi. No, a P0545 fault code is usually caused by a faulty exhaust gas temperature (EGT) sensor, the wiring or connectors associated with it, or the ECU's ability to communicate with the sensor.
I've Ford Transit mk8 2017 im getting error code P0341, the car cranks but doesn't start. I followed you instructions step by step and I'm getting 12.6V, 5.01V and 4.98V. I've also tested the sensor it's good but I've replaced it into new one, any other thing you might think about it please?
My w202 M111 C180 1997/98 model gives me a camshaft not recognized fault code 076. What could be the issue here? Thanks
Both signal and reference reading 12v . Fault code P0341. Car starts just fine but runs with irregular performance.
Car would run fine in the morning after startup, but once Car warms up, car becomes sluggish with a lot of hesitations when giving it gas.
Please help
did u find the problem?
@bm_wuratli6883 yes , I replaced the Camshaft position sensor and the issue went away
Excellent video, great illustrations
nice explain,and i got a little knowledge of digital wave!
hope for more good explain of car sensor or principal!thanks a lot!!
the part where you test the wires to the cam sensor on the ecu side doesn’t make sense, you can’t just test them they’re plugged into the ecu connector and would lose power if you unplug the connector. where would you be able to test the power on the ecu connection side with it plugged in still
Hi. You can test the wires on the ECU connector when it is plugged in by back probing the wires behind the connector. We have a video that details how to do this on our channel: ruclips.net/video/S8GL8VCg7C8/видео.html Watch from 2:20 onwards for steps on how to back probe. Hope this helps!
Do you provide class for technicians
can u make a tutorial how to test a vvti solenoid thank u
Does it have to be in a certain spot in order for it to crank?
No. It should start at any partition
CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME HOW TO TEST INTERMITTENT P0344 /TRACTION LIGHT THAT TRIGGERED ONLY WHEN I HIT A HEAVY BUMP, WHEN I SHUT THE ENGINE OFF EVRYTHING BACK TO NORMAL AND HE JEEP STARTED FINE???
Hello I have a problem with my Pontiac g6 GT 2009 3.5 liter engine. It’ll over heat when I’ll drive it for more than 30min and won’t turn on shortly after I want to turn it back on I’ll wait 1hr to cool down and it’ll start back up again.
Will a camshaft sensor kill power to fuel pump
It depends on the vehicle, as some modern vehicles use the camshaft signal to control the fuel pump relay so you would have to look at your vehicle's specific technical information to confirm.
So If I only have a P0341 code does that mean that my camshaft is bad ?
I had this issue for over a year but was not wiling to pay the 4k€ asked from Jag to "fix the issue". I didn't trust them as they said the camshaft sensor could not be swapped out (it's litteraly 1 T30 screw).
The only other symptom I have is a delayed start. (No power loses, not engine counting, nothing else).
Any help from someone ?
Hi. A P0341 is likely caused by either a faulty sensor, the sensor's wiring or connector, or the ECU as we have mentioned in the video. Typically P0341 is caused by an intermittent fault so a potential quick check to complete would be inspecting the sensor connector for any corrosion, damaged pins, or terminals with poor tension. You can also complete this check at the ECU. If they both look ok, then we would recommend following the steps outlined in this video to determine if the sensor, wiring, or ECU is at fault. But as you have the P0341 code, we would recommend completing all checks whilst wiggling the wiring loom between the sensor and ECU, as engine vibration could be the reason the fault is intermittent. Hope this helps!
@@Ecutestinglimited thank you very much for you reply.
I have already swapped out the sensor for a new one but nothing has changed. I'll try out the electrical connections and ECU next weekend.
Excellent video by the way
@@yohansharp3040 Thank you, we are glad you liked the video! If you need any further assistance or believe your ECU is at fault, please email our technical support team on info@ecutesting.com and they will be happy to advise you on what the next steps are.
@@Ecutestinglimited Checked the wiring from the connector. Got a 12V for Ground, a 5V for the +, and 0,02V for the signal.
Thanks for the help, i'll look into getting the wiring checked up
Wow, what a good video straight to the point good job 👍👍
Can It be bad Can shaft sensnor if I got no codes on a 2006 cts v
I changed my camshaft sensors an now my ignition is locked could that be the problem?
Hi. Changing the camshaft sensors should not directly cause your ignition to become locked. If your ignition is locked, it's more likely related to the key, ignition cylinder, steering wheel lock, or an issue with the anti-theft system (if equipped). We recommend checking if the steering wheel is in a locked position, as this can sometimes make it difficult to turn the key. If that doesn't work we would recommend getting the vehicle scanned for fault codes to help pin point the cause of the fault. Thanks.
Great video explaining how/ why !
😅😅 1:29
Can you tell me the location of the cam sensor in a chevy venture 99 van
will you be able to rebuilt a ECU for a 07 Lexus GX470 part#89661-60K00 let me know
Hi. Please contact our technical support team via email at info@ecutesting.com with the information you have provided in your message above, as well as any additional fault information you can give including diagnostic fault codes, symptoms and any testing/fixes you have already carried out. They will be happy to advise you of any re-build solution we can provide.
Excellent explanation
I have error code P0016 on my XC70, switched camshaft sensor, VVT, cambelt and waterpump, oil and filter, sparkplugs, and still get that damn engine light shining bright, can it be the crankshaft sensor?
Hi. A P0016 could certainly be caused by a faulty crankshaft sensor. Please follow our video guide here: ruclips.net/video/_wx7ZumykMc/видео.html on how to test a crankshaft sensor circuit, and this will help narrow down the cause of the code.
@@Ecutestinglimited Thanks, will do!
@@Ecutestinglimited Found the problem, it was the crankshaft sensor, switched it today and the light went away.
Getting 12.3V for the ground is that fine or does it need to be 12.6
Impressive, modern auto electrics are a bloody miracle!
Great explanation well done
I have a friend that has a 2010 2.5 Toyota Camry he hit a deer with the car and now won't start not receiving any readout to the crank sensor as I unplugged the crank sensor and checked from the 3 pins and no read out with key turned on.so do I check the other plug ends within that harness leading back to the ECM?
Yes, we would recommend completing the same test by back probing all 3 wires at the ECU connector to determine if the fault is within the wiring loom or the ECU itself.
Theres a button in the trunk you might have to push after a collision of sorts. It shuts off the fuel pump. Its called an inertia switch i think. It will be on the driver side in the trunk
@@86bcgossett86 Wow, that is a good thing to know about.... Thank you for sharing!
I've replaced both camshaft sensors, but I'm still getting P0365. What do you think could be the issue? (2006 Honda Accord)
Hi. A P0365 indicates a problem with the Camshaft sensor 'B' circuit. If you have already replaced both sensors then we would recommend completing the circuit checks in this video from 1:52 onwards to determine if the sensor has a good ground, is receiving the correct power supply, and that it is outputting a good signal. The fault will likely lie with either the connector to the sensor, the wiring loom from the sensor to the ECU, or with the ECU itself. Hope this helps.
@@Ecutestinglimited which camshaft sensor is B, intake or exhaust? They both shaped differently
It's very useful and thank you so much🙏❤
best video on how to trouble shoot sensors and ecu
Hello from Oamaru, South island New Zealand.
I have a 2012 Spanish built Nissan Navara D40 St-X Diesel pickup. Engine is a Nissan - Renault partnership common rail with 165.000 K.m on clock.
When idling it's lumpy then when attempting to accelerate it farts n missis then dies.
It smokes a really white Hazy putrid smoke but no oil in coolant nor coolant in sump.
There's no fuel dilution in oil sump.
It starts but struggle..
S.c.v, e.g.r cooler replaced (but didn't require so)
injectors tested fine. E.g.r valve actuator works fine.
Any idea what may cause this grief?... Crank n cam sensors?.
No codes come up.
Thanks again in advance..Carl
So you say if the wire going to the cam sensor is good the cam sensor is good? How do you test the cam sensor itself?
Hi. Apologies but I'm not sure we do say that in the video? At 2:46 we say if the wiring to the sensor is ok then the sensor itself is faulty. There are a few different tests that you can conduct on the sensor to determine if it is faulty, but these can vary depending on what type of sensor you have and the manufacturer, so you would have to consult your vehicles schematic or repair manual in order to do this.
What’s the difference between camshaft and crankshaft?
Hi. A camshaft controls the opening and closing of the engine's valves due to 'lobes' or 'cams' pushing up against the valves as the camshaft rotates, which allows the intake of fuel-air mixture into the pistons as well as the release of exhaust gasses. The crankshaft converts the reciprocating motion of the pistons into rotational motion, transferring power to the transmission. It is connected to the pistons through connecting rods and converts the up-and-down motion into a circular motion.
Both the crank and cam sensors monitor the rotational position and speed of each of these and relay this information back to the ECU for optimal and efficient valve timing and engine operation. Hope this help!
What about the code P0321? Cant that be a problem with the camshaft sensor aswell?
Hi. The code P0321 relates to the crankshaft position sensor (also known as the engine speed sensor) rather than the camshaft sensor. The testing methods for both of these sensors is fairly similar, however we will be shortly releasing a video specifically about the crankshaft position sensor which will go into more detail!
Your the best I enjoyed and learned alot from your video you are a smart man Mr Sensor
Great video… I have learnt something ..
What about P0346 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance Bank 2?