Hi Nils. You need a Quick Saw. Try renting one from the Home Depot next time you need to cut concrete. You can pull the cutout out in one solid piece and not have to resort to a sledge to finish the job. I've cut concrete with a Skilsaw before, and there is no comparison. The only consideration would be the fumes from running the engine in your basement.
Thanks for sharing. Just wondering if that diamond blade is some special type that doesn't require water to keep the blade cool when cutting. When the blade gets to hot (friction) the glue that adheres the diamonds to the blade lets go and the blade gets dull pretty quick.
I run my hypoid gear Skill Saw with water when I use a diamond blade on concrete or stone. The blades last lots longer and that dust is not thrown all over the place. The saw came set up for cutting stone veneer when I bought it used 24 years ago, and the saw is still running fine.
Nice video! Great idea setting up the shop vac. I'm not doing anything as complex as plumbing, but we have a bit of a problem with water seeping into our basement, and am trying to direct the water (for now anyway) to a drain, but it is piling up in an area about 2 - 3 feet from the drain, meaning there's a high spot that needs to be brought down a bit (probably 1/2" would do it).
I have the same problem, my sump pump is in a pit that has a raised edge, so the water level has to raise about 1 inch in the rest of my basement before it will flow into the sump pit and get pumped out. How did you end up solving this problem?
@@Vid_MasterAbout 5 or 6 years ago, I bit the bullet and had a perimeter drain installed, connected to a pump (about 2 feet down), which pumps it to drainage outside. Occasionally, there is still an issue, which probably could be fixed, but I haven't felt compelled to do so.
@@fiddlingglassblower Thanks for the reply!! that is a great idea. I have a perimeter french drain setup as well, ill see if its possible to install a pump in there.
Wonderful video. Can't wait to see the follow-up. I'm in the process of enlarging the hole through my basement wall, to accommodate a larger drain pipe.
I used Google Sketchup. It's free, pretty easy to learn and I used it to architect my whole basement before building it. As you'll see in the next video, I didn't end up following the plumbing plan I showed in this video because there was an easier way, but it helped me to visualize how to get to where I wanted. Thanks for watching!
You saved money but done it the hard way. Cut the Cement with a Cement Saw and break up with an Electric Jack hammer, the small one comes in a Carry Case. Home depot rents the Electric Jack Hammer for $40 @ 4 hours or $60 for 24 hours the Bits are $3 for 24 hours. The Cement Saw rents for approx. $40 plus $10 blade. Basically you will spend between $80 - $100. Cut the Cement into the square you desire then cut and 'X' into the Cement square to create smaller sections to break up and pull out the old cement, it will make the job much easier. Use vacuum for inside jobs to suck the dust and for outside jobs vacuum not really necessary. Hope this helps.
I have to do the same thing...thanks for the video..very simple...I do have a small cold chisel and small BFH, the little one..and that will come in handy...love the vacuum idea...
I realize this is an older video but to save yourself some hammering, a good sized masonry bit in a hammer drill to put a hole every 4-5 inches would have done wonders. Good video though, got me what I needed to know.
Great job man I'm a plumber and I understand how much that sucked lol. My only comment isn't the work just that you did. Because it came out great, just you could of saved time and energy with an electric chipping hammer. But there's no right or wrong way brother just different effort levels on this one lol
Cuevas, did you not think it problematic that he never exposed any plumbing whatsoever in which he could tie his shower drain into? I agree that he may have done a decent job cutting a hole in his concrete, but did doing so accomplish anything?
I have to do this next week but I am renting a jack hammer from Home Depot. I dont have a neighbor to help :-) I have to make a cut double of what you did.
Could you be so kind to give me a general idea of what a contractor would charge to cut a rough opening doorway through concrete block (garage location.. +no extra care for cleanliness, and I would install the new door...any information, much appreciated!
i'm no stranger to construction/home repair, and imo the performance of your skillsaw and blade is nothing short of remarkable please include a link to the blade you say you found at hd....i went there but didn't find anything close to it. there was a $60 Diablo diamond tip blade but you said you spent $15 thanks
Hey Wesley, I don't still have the blade I used in this project but I purchased another one soon after and I'm pretty sure it was this Skil Diamond saw blade. amzn.to/2b8uFYC
It seemed to do pretty well, really. I let it rest in between cuts but not really on purpose - that's just how it worked out while I prepped for the next cut. It did a great job and I still use that saw for woodworking and metal working.
I just used a regular (cheapest I could find) blade. I tried water at first but that just seemed to make things more difficult. Maybe it only worked because I had such a relatively small amount of cutting to do.
In the scene where you're breaking out the second section of concrete, I thought I was looking at your neighbor using the sludge. I saw his "grey" hair and thought, wow that's an old guy! Then I realized it was you with concrete dust in your hair, lol. But you were slugging it hard 😅.
Does anyone know the disadvantage of cutting concrete with the dust and potentially inhaling the concrete dust? Are you better of tunneling under the slab instead?
One or two more cuts down the middle would've made busting the concrete easier. The concrete would've hinged at the middle cuts and at the edges, thereby breaking easier.
Don't do this without having the concrete x-rayed for utilities. This exact scenario is why I do not do residential remodeling anymore. I worked for a contractor that asked me to use a demo saw to cut through the slab of a 3 story condo building and he assured me that there was no electrical lines running through the slab. I ran the demo saw with a normal drip 3-3/4' deep to make the scoring line then I brought out the 60 pound chipping hammer. After about 30 minutes of chipping I hit a 200 amp main and 1-1/4" of the hardened steel chipping bit turned into molten steel and shot straight up in front of my face and hit the ceiling in an explosion of sparks and slag. It turns out that when I was running the demo saw I had cut almost half way through six, 200 amp, unit mains. I was standing in water ungrounded the entire time. I could have died X times that day. Don't cut into slabs without knowledge please.
Good solid advice. If you're going to do it anyway without getting it checked at the very least kill your power first... at the MAIN .. big switch usually outside on side of house etc.
Michael Krzenski, it sounds like if it were the 200 amp main, then FYI (if you didn't already know) killing the power at the main panel wouldn't make a difference. You'd have to have the electric come out and shut you down at the meter, in order to protect yourself. James Perman, if you take a look at the main panel you should see whether the main line came in from down below, or up above. If you saw that the main panel was fed from below then that would have been a clue not to cut the slab while standing in water. And FYI, you should be glad you were ungrounded. Had you been grounded you may no be here today as the energy would have went through you the same as it would through a copper wire. Hope that helps ;)
On a single family home they do not run the power feed or ANY electrical wires in the slab. It comes in from the street underground and goes into the panel through PVC conduit that goes through the footing only. There is zero chance of hitting any electrical wires on a job like this.
I went through the same situation and I started breaking the concrete with a sledge hammer, until I discovered I could rent an electric small jackhammer for $20, best money ever spent, easy to use and a great way to save yoiur energy for something else...........
Your neighbor "with the muscles", looks like he could be your grandfather...you might wanna go lift weights with him or something...great video either way, very helpful :)
Ha ha! That was my Dad in the video, though he could probably outlift me too. My friend with the muscles wasn't in the video. I actually just did this again in my current house last week and used a larger hammer drill in addition to the saw and sledge and it went pretty quickly.
I have to do this exact thing, but only the hole for the drain, tomorrow...gonna use the diamond blade for sure. Send your dad over when Im done cutting! Hahaha
Jack hammer can compromise the integrity of the foundation all the way to the outer wall. Cracks pose a possibility of ants or other pests readily finding their way into your home if the extent of the cracks are beyond your ability to see or do a thorough repair of the tear out or concrete removal.
+A G make sure you have someone spray water on saw as you are spraying...and cover stuff up with like plastic sheets....dirty job...dust goes everywhere.
Oh boy! Looking at all that work to open up the floor makes me super happy I just bought the Milwaukee SDS MAX rotary hammer! I like the pre cut though to make a clean cut in the floor.... but the sledge hammer crap._ not for me anymore.... besides, one job, the first job will pay for the tool....
Not sure why a trap in the drain line was needed . And a combo tee/wye instead if the tee works a lot better and in some states a tee on it's side is illegal
jclbuxfan, yes a tee on it's side is a no no, however even a combo tee/wye wouldn;t do any good unless he exposed some actual plumbing in which he could tie into. If you watch again, he only exposes dirt beneath the foundation, which is not sufficient for drainage lines to tie into
For thicker concrete, you'll likely want to rent a larger concrete cutting saw. They are usually available from equipment rental companies like Ace Rents. I've seen some pretty huge saws so I'm sure you'll be able to find the right size for the job.
Better off renting an actual concrete saw than using a SkilSaw. The motor can handle it if you only cut 1/2” per pass and work really straight and slow, otherwise its a great way to drastically shorten the life of the motor. I have however cut 1” granite with mine and I know tile cutter use them with a water attachment. But cutting concrete.. and dry.. uhhh no.
Am I the only one who noticed he never exposed any plumbing whatsoever in which to tie into? At 5:36 he imagines there will be pluming to tie into, but by the vids end, it shows there is only dirt where he thought there would be plumbing.
wow no rebar going through the concrete also i would recommend you use a angle grinder with a diamond tip disk it will not be as bulky to turn on those corners otherwise good job
Hi omgawdits fiona, I don't have a link, but I would just suggest: 1. to make sure that your old concrete is wet, before pouring your new concrete. New concrete will have a harder time bonding to existing dry concrete. 2. make sure your old concrete has a rough surface for new concrete to bond to, so use a rasp if it seems smooth or polished. 3. Follow manufacturer specs for pouring, such as pour depth, etc. Hope that helps! ;)
That's a good thought. I would make sure to cover the openings of the pipes so that no cement pours into them, as you might imagine that could cause a stubborn clog. ;) A cheap and effective way to do this is to just wrap the openings with a piece of plastic , then put a rubber band snugly over it or wrap with tape. This will keep sewer gases from entering the home as well. As for the outside of the pipes, no wrapping or protection is needed, as pvc and most other pipe material can remain embedded directly within the concrete for the life of the structure. Make sure those pipes are locked firmly in place though, as they can tend to move around during the pour, if they aren't secured. Good luck, and just let me know if you have any other questions :)
your video is just fine. you could have used a smaller chipping gun it would have made life simple. also soak concrete with water to cut down on dust and help with heat on the blade.One thing i noticed is that waste lines for toilets have no trap. yours showed a trap. this will cause a blockage in the future. all toilet have built in traps. 30 years in the business.
TuttleCreative, at some point that sewer line should surface above your finished floor line. Could you not just tie into it a higher point? IOW, some part of a sewer line can be 8' deep, but other parts won't be as they never should run in a horizontal manner, but rather a sloped or even vertical fashion. Hope that helps ;)
Gary, sure, but what would he tie into. If you watch the video again, at 5:36, he imagines where there will be plumbing in which he can tie into, but by the time he has completed the hole, there is only dirt. Would you say it was safe and within code to tie the shower drain into that dirt?
Dust from Cured Concrete is really bad for you , must use a better mask , not a respirator just a mask with filters, also try to make it wet so is not airborne
Seems like a lot of work and expensive going down to the home depot to buy empty paint cans just to shit in. If easy is your MO, then why not just shit in the register vents and blame the smell on whoever else is in the room? :D
![Plumbing a bathroom explained in 4 minutes. [You CAN do it!] #diy #plumbing](/img/1.gif)
Hi Nils. You need a Quick Saw. Try renting one from the Home Depot next time you need to cut concrete. You can pull the cutout out in one solid piece and not have to resort to a sledge to finish the job. I've cut concrete with a Skilsaw before, and there is no comparison. The only consideration would be the fumes from running the engine in your basement.
Pro tip, set your shop vac for wet pick up, fill it 1/5-1/4 full of water and it will catch dust better then any filter
This tip I definitely needed, and I can not for the life of me figure out why I never though of this with all the DIY sanding of drywall I have done!
MAKE SURE YOUR ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT IS DOUBLE INSULATED AGAINST WATER
Pro tip flyhound97, nobody cares. The idea is solid. That's what makes him educated. That's all that matters. smh
You stole that idea from Rainbow Vacuum! Those things are built like a tank and filter naturally, with water.
striker12300two Wrong! There are people who put pride into not sounding like a moron.
Thanks for sharing. Just wondering if that diamond blade is some special type that doesn't require water to keep the blade cool when cutting. When the blade gets to hot (friction) the glue that adheres the diamonds to the blade lets go and the blade gets dull pretty quick.
the placement of the wetdry vac is absolutely genius. man, youre a smart guy haha.
I run my hypoid gear Skill Saw with water when I use a diamond blade on concrete or stone. The blades last lots longer and that dust is not thrown all over the place. The saw came set up for cutting stone veneer when I bought it used 24 years ago, and the saw is still running fine.
Nice job! Thx for sharing. You guys are tough doing that without a chipping hammer.
Nils you done a good job and shared your work, the thanks goes to you. The rented tools just make things easier and quicker. Take care.
Nice video! Great idea setting up the shop vac. I'm not doing anything as complex as plumbing, but we have a bit of a problem with water seeping into our basement, and am trying to direct the water (for now anyway) to a drain, but it is piling up in an area about 2 - 3 feet from the drain, meaning there's a high spot that needs to be brought down a bit (probably 1/2" would do it).
I have the same problem, my sump pump is in a pit that has a raised edge, so the water level has to raise about 1 inch in the rest of my basement before it will flow into the sump pit and get pumped out. How did you end up solving this problem?
@@Vid_MasterAbout 5 or 6 years ago, I bit the bullet and had a perimeter drain installed, connected to a pump (about 2 feet down), which pumps it to drainage outside. Occasionally, there is still an issue, which probably could be fixed, but I haven't felt compelled to do so.
@@fiddlingglassblower Thanks for the reply!! that is a great idea. I have a perimeter french drain setup as well, ill see if its possible to install a pump in there.
Wonderful video. Can't wait to see the follow-up. I'm in the process of enlarging the hole through my basement wall, to accommodate a larger drain pipe.
I used Google Sketchup. It's free, pretty easy to learn and I used it to architect my whole basement before building it. As you'll see in the next video, I didn't end up following the plumbing plan I showed in this video because there was an easier way, but it helped me to visualize how to get to where I wanted. Thanks for watching!
You saved money but done it the hard way. Cut the Cement with a Cement Saw and break up with an Electric Jack hammer, the small one comes in a Carry Case. Home depot rents the Electric Jack Hammer for $40 @ 4 hours or $60 for 24 hours the Bits are $3 for 24 hours. The Cement Saw rents for approx. $40 plus $10 blade. Basically you will spend between $80 - $100. Cut the Cement into the square you desire then cut and 'X' into the Cement square to create smaller sections to break up and pull out the old cement, it will make the job much easier. Use vacuum for inside jobs to suck the dust and for outside jobs vacuum not really necessary. Hope this helps.
That's helpful info. It's always nice to be able to rent some good tools to make the job easier. Thanks for sharing.
When you refill the hole with concrete, do you put rebar in the sides of the hole?
I have to do the same thing...thanks for the video..very simple...I do have a small cold chisel and small BFH, the little one..and that will come in handy...love the vacuum idea...
I realize this is an older video but to save yourself some hammering, a good sized masonry bit in a hammer drill to put a hole every 4-5 inches would have done wonders.
Good video though, got me what I needed to know.
Could you have made several cuts across the huge area to break up the parts in the middle of that rectangular more easily?
Nice Work .....only people want to know ....understanding what you do
I'm not sure, but I didn't see any tendons or cables so I'm assuming it is not.
Great job man I'm a plumber and I understand how much that sucked lol. My only comment isn't the work just that you did. Because it came out great, just you could of saved time and energy with an electric chipping hammer. But there's no right or wrong way brother just different effort levels on this one lol
Cuevas, did you not think it problematic that he never exposed any plumbing whatsoever in which he could tie his shower drain into? I agree that he may have done a decent job cutting a hole in his concrete, but did doing so accomplish anything?
I am interested to know how much such work costs. how much money is usually paid for 1 foot if the concrete slab is 8 inches?
I just uploaded the next video (finally) - check out the end of this video for the link.
Drill a couple of holes in the cut block. Get a mason art chisel will help
I have to do this next week but I am renting a jack hammer from Home Depot. I dont have a neighbor to help :-) I have to make a cut double of what you did.
Best of luck!
Could you be so kind to give me a general idea of what a contractor would charge to cut a rough opening doorway through concrete block (garage location.. +no extra care for cleanliness, and I would install the new door...any information, much appreciated!
no mention of post tension slab which is what I have. Need to xray for cables before cutting.
Roughly how much would this cost if you'd contracted this to be done?
i'm no stranger to construction/home repair, and imo the performance of your skillsaw and blade is nothing short of remarkable
please include a link to the blade you say you found at hd....i went there but didn't find anything close to it. there was a $60 Diablo diamond tip blade but you said you spent $15
thanks
Hey Wesley, I don't still have the blade I used in this project but I purchased another one soon after and I'm pretty sure it was this Skil Diamond saw blade. amzn.to/2b8uFYC
+Nils Rasmusson many thanks for taking time to respond
That T intersection did you end up making that A Y intersection
How did the Skil handle the heat from the blade? Did you need to let it rest at all? Pretty impressive really.
It seemed to do pretty well, really. I let it rest in between cuts but not really on purpose - that's just how it worked out while I prepped for the next cut. It did a great job and I still use that saw for woodworking and metal working.
I just used a regular (cheapest I could find) blade. I tried water at first but that just seemed to make things more difficult. Maybe it only worked because I had such a relatively small amount of cutting to do.
I've done it both ways, hammer and jackhammer. All I can say is I'll never not use a jackhammer ever again. Well worth the price of rental.
In the scene where you're breaking out the second section of concrete, I thought I was looking at your neighbor using the sludge. I saw his "grey" hair and thought, wow that's an old guy! Then I realized it was you with concrete dust in your hair, lol. But you were slugging it hard 😅.
You also needed to chase it with a *chisel* , Buddy... What's his name? Mike or Dennis? LOL - 5:49
Does anyone know the disadvantage of cutting concrete with the dust and potentially inhaling the concrete dust?
Are you better of tunneling under the slab instead?
Do not breathe in silicone dust
One or two more cuts down the middle would've made busting the concrete easier. The concrete would've hinged at the middle cuts and at the edges, thereby breaking easier.
If you put the front of the saw down first and then lower the back its easier to dig in.
How do I know how deep your blade should cut?
Concrete seems are lot harder than the concrete they have today?
That breaks out nice but why didn't you just shutter that shape in the first place so there was no concrete where the pipes were going to go.?
It’s always best to do concrete work ungloved and wearing a fine wrist watch and ring!
Don't do this without having the concrete x-rayed for utilities. This exact scenario is why I do not do residential remodeling anymore. I worked for a contractor that asked me to use a demo saw to cut through the slab of a 3 story condo building and he assured me that there was no electrical lines running through the slab. I ran the demo saw with a normal drip 3-3/4' deep to make the scoring line then I brought out the 60 pound chipping hammer. After about 30 minutes of chipping I hit a 200 amp main and 1-1/4" of the hardened steel chipping bit turned into molten steel and shot straight up in front of my face and hit the ceiling in an explosion of sparks and slag. It turns out that when I was running the demo saw I had cut almost half way through six, 200 amp, unit mains. I was standing in water ungrounded the entire time. I could have died X times that day. Don't cut into slabs without knowledge please.
Good solid advice. If you're going to do it anyway without getting it checked at the very least kill your power first... at the MAIN .. big switch usually outside on side of house etc.
Michael Krzenski, it sounds like if it were the 200 amp main, then FYI (if you didn't already know) killing the power at the main panel wouldn't make a difference. You'd have to have the electric come out and shut you down at the meter, in order to protect yourself.
James Perman, if you take a look at the main panel you should see whether the main line came in from down below, or up above. If you saw that the main panel was fed from below then that would have been a clue not to cut the slab while standing in water. And FYI, you should be glad you were ungrounded. Had you been grounded you may no be here today as the energy would have went through you the same as it would through a copper wire. Hope that helps ;)
All i want to know is how
Much trouble that jack ass contractor got i to.
On a single family home they do not run the power feed or ANY electrical wires in the slab. It comes in from the street underground and goes into the panel through PVC conduit that goes through the footing only. There is zero chance of hitting any electrical wires on a job like this.
hell of a story thx
I am doing the same project. Thanks for the vid! I want to see the plumbing next!
I just did this. It sucked! Good video.
I went through the same situation and I started breaking the concrete with a sledge hammer, until I discovered I could rent an electric small jackhammer for $20, best money ever spent, easy to use and a great way to save yoiur energy for something else...........
Where from? Home depot?
@@ladyrenaissance2026 No, I avoid big box american outfits...I like to support my local businesses, I went to my local tool rental place
Your neighbor "with the muscles", looks like he could be your grandfather...you might wanna go lift weights with him or something...great video either way, very helpful :)
Ha ha! That was my Dad in the video, though he could probably outlift me too. My friend with the muscles wasn't in the video. I actually just did this again in my current house last week and used a larger hammer drill in addition to the saw and sledge and it went pretty quickly.
I have to do this exact thing, but only the hole for the drain, tomorrow...gonna use the diamond blade for sure. Send your dad over when Im done cutting! Hahaha
just did a similar project like this today...only a lot bigger. Instead of the sledgehammer....go rent a jackhammer. Alot easier.
Jack hammer can compromise the integrity of the foundation all the way to the outer wall. Cracks pose a possibility of ants or other pests readily finding their way into your home if the extent of the cracks are beyond your ability to see or do a thorough repair of the tear out or concrete removal.
Yeah...we used a saw and jack hammer....saw it out first than jack hammer
Jason Boeken Looks good!
Where's the link to the follow-up vid?
+A G make sure you have someone spray water on saw as you are spraying...and cover stuff up with like plastic sheets....dirty job...dust goes everywhere.
Does everybody have that one *muscle* neighbor they call in for backup? *I do.*
There's better ways to do much of this. But at the end of the day it worked I like to remind people.
If you hate the dirt, you can try spray water when you cuttingn
Oh boy! Looking at all that work to open up the floor makes me super happy I just bought the Milwaukee SDS MAX rotary hammer! I like the pre cut though to make a clean cut in the floor.... but the sledge hammer crap._ not for me anymore.... besides, one job, the first job will pay for the tool....
nice what kind of blade is that and where did you buy it from? I need to do cut the slab in my garage
It's just a concrete cutting diamond blade from Home Depot or Lowes. I think they run around $15.
That circular saw went deeper than i thought it could
You turned forty years older during the filming with that grey hair
i see dirt underneat , do they use post tension systems at ground level?
Attila, I used Google Sketchup.
L
Mathuranthagan Senthilrajah
Not sure why a trap in the drain line was needed . And a combo tee/wye instead if the tee works a lot better and in some states a tee on it's side is illegal
jclbuxfan, yes a tee on it's side is a no no, however even a combo tee/wye wouldn;t do any good unless he exposed some actual plumbing in which he could tie into. If you watch again, he only exposes dirt beneath the foundation, which is not sufficient for drainage lines to tie into
Good Safety Practice
Thanks for sharing. I'm putting in a check valve.
How do I saw through concrete that's thicker than this ?
For thicker concrete, you'll likely want to rent a larger concrete cutting saw. They are usually available from equipment rental companies like Ace Rents. I've seen some pretty huge saws so I'm sure you'll be able to find the right size for the job.
Someone buy this man some gloves
Nice Keens.
Better off renting an actual concrete saw than using a SkilSaw. The motor can handle it if you only cut 1/2” per pass and work really straight and slow, otherwise its a great way to drastically shorten the life of the motor. I have however cut 1” granite with mine and I know tile cutter use them with a water attachment. But cutting concrete.. and dry.. uhhh no.
Lmao I admit this video gets me anxious over how he plunge cuts.
Never lift the front edge of the table up when plunge cutting
That was great thx
This looks like the hard way
Am I the only one who noticed he never exposed any plumbing whatsoever in which to tie into? At 5:36 he imagines there will be pluming to tie into, but by the vids end, it shows there is only dirt where he thought there would be plumbing.
Possabilities United nah dude it's there open your eyes bud, it's in the dirt bottom right corner of the second cut.
Hello: I have a question. What software did you use for the piping 3D simulation? thanks
wow no rebar going through the concrete also i would recommend you use a angle grinder with a diamond tip disk it will not be as bulky to turn on those corners otherwise good job
Heck with renting the proper tools. Buy them on Craigslist and then turn around and sell them for the same price.
Can somebody give me a link to how we put the concrete back over a pipe 🙃 for some reason I can't seem to find a vid for it
Hi omgawdits fiona, I don't have a link, but I would just suggest:
1. to make sure that your old concrete is wet, before pouring your new concrete. New concrete will have a harder time bonding to existing dry concrete.
2. make sure your old concrete has a rough surface for new concrete to bond to, so use a rasp if it seems smooth or polished.
3. Follow manufacturer specs for pouring, such as pour depth, etc.
Hope that helps! ;)
That's a good thought. I would make sure to cover the openings of the pipes so that no cement pours into them, as you might imagine that could cause a stubborn clog. ;) A cheap and effective way to do this is to just wrap the openings with a piece of plastic , then put a rubber band snugly over it or wrap with tape. This will keep sewer gases from entering the home as well. As for the outside of the pipes, no wrapping or protection is needed, as pvc and most other pipe material can remain embedded directly within the concrete for the life of the structure. Make sure those pipes are locked firmly in place though, as they can tend to move around during the pour, if they aren't secured. Good luck, and just let me know if you have any other questions :)
The link below to the follow-up video is where?
making more cuts in the middle would have made breaking out that concrete easier.
What program did you use
Google Sketchup
Thanks
What kind of blade die you use to cut the concrete. Was it a standard diamond blade or something more heavy duty?
Just a standard diamond blade.
Electric jackhammers are a thing😉
your video is just fine. you could have used a smaller chipping gun it would have made life simple. also soak concrete with water to cut down on dust and help with heat on the blade.One thing i noticed is that waste lines for toilets have no trap. yours showed a trap. this will cause a blockage in the future. all toilet have built in traps. 30 years in the business.
didnt see that it was a shower. right on . dig it..
I thought they put rebar in those foundations?
What blade did you use? I want to pick up the same one. I used a 3 dollar blade today that didn't work very well
Just found out my sewer line is encased in a 36" solid block.... What now???
TuttleCreative, at some point that sewer line should surface above your finished floor line. Could you not just tie into it a higher point? IOW, some part of a sewer line can be 8' deep, but other parts won't be as they never should run in a horizontal manner, but rather a sloped or even vertical fashion. Hope that helps ;)
i cant believe that saw made it.
just use water its way cheaper and will stop all the dust and dangers not just from the guy cutting it but everyone else in the house
Looks like a two inch thick slab with no mesh......Tell me how to do a tight for space 8 inch thick slab in an existing bathroom...…………?
I am interested to know how much such work costs. how much money is usually paid for 1 foot if the concrete slab is 8 inches?
thank you for the video.dont mind the trolls ;)
Way too much work. Jackhammer, hepa filter. Would have liked to see the hookup phase. Good video, thanks for the share.
Should be wye not tee connections. Imagine flow and also using a snake?
Gary, sure, but what would he tie into. If you watch the video again, at 5:36, he imagines where there will be plumbing in which he can tie into, but by the time he has completed the hole, there is only dirt. Would you say it was safe and within code to tie the shower drain into that dirt?
I would have used a tool to dig that out and some water
Nice job, cool video. We have some similar videos on our channel too
Your connections are not to code! on the 3D video should be sweep Y's and 90s and 45s...not hard 90's
Fuck the code
Dude, he's an expert handyman
He knows best
Workin at night to dodge the inspector eh
Should have used a combo instead of a tee. Nice cut work though.
Dust from Cured Concrete is really bad for you , must use a better mask , not a respirator just a mask with filters, also try to make it wet so is not airborne
Bathroom for new house
I got one word for you... jack hammer
Wow, you literally have no rebar in that foundation... How's that even considered safe?
Yo, Borislav, the slab could have fiber reinforcement, which is far better then rebar for numerous reasons. Hope that helps ;)
I have the same saw :)
Working in your Google T shirt
much easier to over cut it by 4" and remove in larger chunks........
I am surprised no one made a comment of how he will probably get silicosis from wearing a $1 dust mask during this whole operation....
Seems like a lot of work. I just buy empty paint cans from Home Depot and shit in them. Seal them up and throw them out.
onjoFilms same here, only I don't throw them out.
I saved the full cans to give away on Christmas
Scatitus is a serious condition......Get help!
lol way cool man but too much info
Seems like a lot of work and expensive going down to the home depot to buy empty paint cans just to shit in. If easy is your MO, then why not just shit in the register vents and blame the smell on whoever else is in the room? :D
Jackhammer!
Cold chisle
wrong kind of mask dude
so i see you did not vent it properly very wrong . also something tells me there was no permits pulled for this. lol