I have a question. I have no idea what I'm doing so bear with me. 98 Volvo v70 GLT. Door locks actuate, buttons go up and down both electronically and also with the key, however the door does not actually lock. I'm not sure what is wrong or why door won't lock.
The lid/hood/bonnet keeps the gears together! I needed to tie it and glue it into place (the 2nd time...). The thermal fuse has a perfect replacement. A 10A fuse yields 2 of them after breaking free from the (red) plastic and folding each half in 2. (I didn't need to cut the electric fuse between the 2 blades because mine was already blown ♻)
Thanks for the great video. All the steps seem clear, but opening the solenoid is difficult, I am struggling to bend back those little metal tabs. They're really strong!
Richard Orme thanks. Really, use a small screwdriver crank it in a flat angle under the tab and lever it up with the screwdriver. Just fiddle a bit with it, not difficult
I found a used assembly, latch and actuator along with the cable at the junk yard. Unfortunately after I installed, I found it to be very slow. My question is can I simply replace the motor with a new motor? Or keep the original motor shaft and simply replace the plastic back part that holds the brushes. I'm thinking that's where the problem lies. Thanks
Crisuz if you can find a motor with the same spec and mount for sure - however a good cleanup AND removing the thermal resistors (and replacing them with copper wire) as shown here may do the trick.
Basically, the main failure mode is the contacts becoming corroded? And the fuse becomes too resistive and that is why you replaced it with copper wire slice?
No. As far as i know (there used to be a thread on MVS) the material the thermal is made of simply ages and changes its properties. Doors are still working fine btw, now rest of the car falls apart....
I've been replacing the motor with motors from the front doors, since those never seem to fail. I haven't opened one to confirm that they don't have the thermal fuse, but I've never seen an S70 with a non opening front door when it gets hot. Maybe people just replace those more often? Anyway it's easier to pull one from a front door junkyard donor than do this fix.
The thing is, the junkyard donors are on their way out, too. This fix seems to last more than a couple years. I replaced mine 2 years ago with a donor part and now they're already failing. This fix seems to be a longer-lasting one. Tedious, but worth it imo :)
@@wrybread I'm glad to hear that! I opened up the motor today and the thermal fuse in it seemed like plastic that's been covered with a tiny layer of aluminium. Honestly surprised it has been holding up for 20 some years! Replacing it with solid copper did the trick for me, so if yours do go out one day I recommend this fix wholeheartedly!
I followed this tutorial, pulled the motor out, and put copper wire in place of the heat sensor. The electric motor still doesn't work. I think the electric motor itself may be broken. Do you know where I could order a brand-new replacement electric motor for the door latch?
Alguien que me pueda ayudar tengo una volvo 2006 xc70 el problema ke tengo con ella es ke en lo electrónico la mitad del interior no funciona y las luces de afuera no me hace flashee un lado y a veces prende y en otros días no kiere prender ke puedo hacer
Then take the lock out, open it and have a look. Might be one of these gears worn out. Or get an L/R replacement lock from a breaker. Shorting the fuse helps when the motor appears "too weak"
+random8or maybe some cleaning and greasing will help. Some other brands, these are cheap parts, but the best price on the Volvo one is $130, so really worth giving DIY a try!
+Rod R I got some from eBay for 10 euros each - from breakers ALL is worth a try but if yours sound like "fast motor running out of steam till stop" then removing the thermal resistor will do the trick ALL is worth trying ;)
Volvo makes some good stuff, but placing the thermo-overload component in a non-serviceable location is crazy. Some companies places thermo-overload inside a circuit breaker enclosure (distro panel).
Thank you so much for taking your time to share and make this video. I found this to be very helpful!
This worked on my C70 boot release, different mechanism same motor problem. Thanks
Jay Artz glad if it’s helping someone. Thanks a lot and keep (c70) it running !
I have a question. I have no idea what I'm doing so bear with me. 98 Volvo v70 GLT. Door locks actuate, buttons go up and down both electronically and also with the key, however the door does not actually lock. I'm not sure what is wrong or why door won't lock.
The lid/hood/bonnet keeps the gears together! I needed to tie it and glue it into place (the 2nd time...). The thermal fuse has a perfect replacement. A 10A fuse yields 2 of them after breaking free from the (red) plastic and folding each half in 2. (I didn't need to cut the electric fuse between the 2 blades because mine was already blown ♻)
Thanks for the great video. All the steps seem clear, but opening the solenoid is difficult, I am struggling to bend back those little metal tabs. They're really strong!
Richard Orme you mean on the back of the motor to open it? Small screwdriver and bend it up. Lever it up
No, I got the motor out. It is the little latches you mention at 2'15". (thanks so much for replying!)
Richard Orme thanks. Really, use a small screwdriver crank it in a flat angle under the tab and lever it up with the screwdriver. Just fiddle a bit with it, not difficult
I found a used assembly, latch and actuator along with the cable at the junk yard.
Unfortunately after I installed, I found it to be very slow.
My question is can I simply replace the motor with a new motor?
Or keep the original motor shaft and simply replace the plastic back part that holds the brushes.
I'm thinking that's where the problem lies.
Thanks
Crisuz if you can find a motor with the same spec and mount for sure - however a good cleanup AND removing the thermal resistors (and replacing them with copper wire) as shown here may do the trick.
@@random8or Okay,I will try it.
This fellow is great to listen to!!!! Hilarious! Uses Blah Blah Blah all the time, making me laugh again and again. What a wonderful goofy guy!!
Basically, the main failure mode is the contacts becoming corroded? And the fuse becomes too resistive and that is why you replaced it with copper wire slice?
No. As far as i know (there used to be a thread on MVS) the material the thermal is made of simply ages and changes its properties. Doors are still working fine btw, now rest of the car falls apart....
I've been replacing the motor with motors from the front doors, since those never seem to fail. I haven't opened one to confirm that they don't have the thermal fuse, but I've never seen an S70 with a non opening front door when it gets hot. Maybe people just replace those more often? Anyway it's easier to pull one from a front door junkyard donor than do this fix.
The thing is, the junkyard donors are on their way out, too. This fix seems to last more than a couple years. I replaced mine 2 years ago with a donor part and now they're already failing. This fix seems to be a longer-lasting one. Tedious, but worth it imo :)
@@fveafsw probably right. My junkyard donors are luckily still going strong.
@@wrybread I'm glad to hear that! I opened up the motor today and the thermal fuse in it seemed like plastic that's been covered with a tiny layer of aluminium. Honestly surprised it has been holding up for 20 some years! Replacing it with solid copper did the trick for me, so if yours do go out one day I recommend this fix wholeheartedly!
I followed this tutorial, pulled the motor out, and put copper wire in place of the heat sensor. The electric motor still doesn't work. I think the electric motor itself may be broken. Do you know where I could order a brand-new replacement electric motor for the door latch?
jimmy 57 nope, sorry. Did you try measuring the resistance of the motor?
Alguien que me pueda ayudar tengo una volvo 2006 xc70 el problema ke tengo con ella es ke en lo electrónico la mitad del interior no funciona y las luces de afuera no me hace flashee un lado y a veces prende y en otros días no kiere prender ke puedo hacer
curious if your was not working at all. Mine goes Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr when the doors are opening or closing, so it is trying!
Then take the lock out, open it and have a look. Might be one of these gears worn out. Or get an L/R replacement lock from a breaker.
Shorting the fuse helps when the motor appears "too weak"
+random8or maybe some cleaning and greasing will help. Some other brands, these are cheap parts, but the best price on the Volvo one is $130, so really worth giving DIY a try!
+Rod R I got some from eBay for 10 euros each - from breakers
ALL is worth a try but if yours sound like "fast motor running out of steam till stop" then removing the thermal resistor will do the trick
ALL is worth trying ;)
Does it have to be copper or could I use a piece of a paperclip?
Funckinnutcase any conducting material will do. Paper clip may be a bit thin tho
Volvo makes some good stuff, but placing the thermo-overload component in a non-serviceable location is crazy.
Some companies places thermo-overload inside a circuit breaker enclosure (distro panel).
Accent was not surprising but was reassuring... haha
•slap•
Haha
Mine were "sometimes" working - once - specially when cold. If opend repeatedly they would "try" to move the knob but be too weak to get it fully up
well done good job.
I like the blaa, blaa :-) Remind me of my german friend.
Help me true with life please
Just get some second hand locks from eBay if you can't fix it yourself.
Hello
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