I found a used assembly, latch and actuator along with the cable at the junk yard. Unfortunately after I installed, I found it to be very slow. My question is can I simply replace the motor with a new motor? Or keep the original motor shaft and simply replace the plastic back part that holds the brushes. I'm thinking that's where the problem lies. Thanks
I am so confused. I swapped the wafer for a piece of copper and the motor works fine, in both directions. When I click unlock i see the motor move in the correct direction, but the pin does not move up still. I can’t see any broken plastic on my end-any advice?
@@bradleyhovan9390 I opened both driver and passenger door and compaired the two. Looks like there is a small pin (on my car yellow) on the passenger that is missing/broken on the drivers door. I see a little bit yellow, but no pin. I've not taken the lock completly out of the door, so I don't know if it's broken or just missing. So I think I will have to replace/repair that lock first. And thanks for your reply!
so what equipment did you use to test this actuator with? what size battery, ect.,ect. I spent $35 on 3 actuators at the junkyard without a way to test them and they turned out to be all bad. now I'm out the money. your info could help me with that.
I wish you'd show us how to do the actual repair. I'm having this issue at the moment and already have my door panels off. I'd rather fix them if I can; rather than replace them. The front doors lock and unlock no problem but the back ones only work intermittently and are very slow. I just put the billet bezels and lock pins in, from IPD, hoping that less friction on the pins would help but the news ones, in spite of having a nylon sleeve, are actually tighter than the stock pulls and now the problem is even worse.
oh dear. just realised it got so many views. sorry. the locks are back in the car. but, basically. read the linked MVS article. you have to carefully open the housing of the lock (wide flat head screwdriver) - try to not to break too much plastic since you have to power glue it together later on. careful that the spring of the big gear does not pop out, its a bit fiddly to get it back in. when the housing is open, you see the motor and very close to it an about 1cm long, 1mm thick "metal plate". this is the thermal resistor. it normally protects the motor from pulling too much power if jammed etc. problem is that it weakens with the years. so the motor won't get enough juice to operate properly. (yes, i know its not a good idea to remove a safety mechanism - but it WONT make your car burn down or so) just pull the resistor out with a plier, clean the contacts in the housing (qTip with some WD40). then find a solid copper cable with roughly same diameter and cut it to same length and press it into the place where the resistor used to be. thats it. then put all back together. i did that with 3 of my 4 locks in my 2000 V70 and haven't had trouble since. does that help you enough?
random8or aftermath: i looked and my info was wrong. the little plate is INSIDE the motor. i simply forgot that. i made a few clips and will compose them to a video and hope that will help you
How do you find out which pins are for power and ground? mine has four pins
I found a used assembly, latch and actuator along with the cable at the junk yard.
Unfortunately after I installed, I found it to be very slow.
My question is can I simply replace the motor with a new motor?
Or keep the original motor shaft and simply replace the plastic back part that holds the brushes.
I'm thinking that's where the problem lies.
Thanks
I am so confused. I swapped the wafer for a piece of copper and the motor works fine, in both directions. When I click unlock i see the motor move in the correct direction, but the pin does not move up still. I can’t see any broken plastic on my end-any advice?
Same problem here. Did you find a solution?
@@adrianwilliams8572 i did not. Tore the whole thing apart, must be an electrical fault somewhere
@@bradleyhovan9390 I opened both driver and passenger door and compaired the two. Looks like there is a small pin (on my car yellow) on the passenger that is missing/broken on the drivers door. I see a little bit yellow, but no pin. I've not taken the lock completly out of the door, so I don't know if it's broken or just missing. So I think I will have to replace/repair that lock first.
And thanks for your reply!
My car i20 actuator plug sometimes has power and sometimes not. Please help...
so what equipment did you use to test this actuator with? what size battery, ect.,ect. I spent $35 on 3 actuators at the junkyard without a way to test them and they turned out to be all bad. now I'm out the money. your info could help me with that.
Any 12v power supply will do (I used a 12v 1a one)
Look at the other video of mine where I open the mechanism and explain how to fix
+random8or cool thanks
I wish you'd show us how to do the actual repair. I'm having this issue at the moment and already have my door panels off. I'd rather fix them if I can; rather than replace them. The front doors lock and unlock no problem but the back ones only work intermittently and are very slow. I just put the billet bezels and lock pins in, from IPD, hoping that less friction on the pins would help but the news ones, in spite of having a nylon sleeve, are actually tighter than the stock pulls and now the problem is even worse.
oh dear. just realised it got so many views. sorry.
the locks are back in the car.
but, basically. read the linked MVS article.
you have to carefully open the housing of the lock (wide flat head screwdriver) - try to not to break too much plastic since you have to power glue it together later on. careful that the spring of the big gear does not pop out, its a bit fiddly to get it back in.
when the housing is open, you see the motor and very close to it an about 1cm long, 1mm thick "metal plate". this is the thermal resistor. it normally protects the motor from pulling too much power if jammed etc. problem is that it weakens with the years. so the motor won't get enough juice to operate properly. (yes, i know its not a good idea to remove a safety mechanism - but it WONT make your car burn down or so)
just pull the resistor out with a plier, clean the contacts in the housing (qTip with some WD40). then find a solid copper cable with roughly same diameter and cut it to same length and press it into the place where the resistor used to be. thats it. then put all back together.
i did that with 3 of my 4 locks in my 2000 V70 and haven't had trouble since.
does that help you enough?
random8or aftermath: i looked and my info was wrong. the little plate is INSIDE the motor. i simply forgot that. i made a few clips and will compose them to a video and hope that will help you
have a look here
Volvo V S C 70 lock actuator motor fix
let me know if my mumbling makes any sense to you :D
how many volts?
Nicholas Emord 12V