Are 37 yr old Alden Indy better than new $655 pair?
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
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TIMESTAMPS:
0:00 Intro
0:31 History
3:10 Boot Info
4:18 Leather
6:08 Inside
7:53 Sock Liner
8:37 Insole
9:52 Midsole
10:56 Heel Stack
11:42 Outsole
12:03 Construction
13:22 Cut In Half
15:12 Cut in Half Review
16:20 The Final Verdict
17:00 How Much Is It Worth
17:26 Best adventure boot tease?
#indianajones #alden #aldenindy 
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Why is it that if something is "Made in America" the price soars as if it's the most amazing thing there ever was?
My friend, I can't wait to see you tearing apart motorcycle boots, especially the "waterproof-breathable" kind, to see the comments section lighting up! 😁
Do a pair of adalante boots.
Rose Anvil giving us the ultimate refresher on Indy and his orthopedic situation.
That means deformities, doesn't it?
@@eadweard. Orthopedic means like how Indy's feet and body are holding up in his boots.
Apparently it means this:
'relating to the branch of medicine dealing with the correction of deformities of bones or muscles. e.g
"an orthopaedic surgeon"'
@@eadweard. I don't have time to argue with you--believe whatever you want dude.
@@GrandPotatoe Well I took that from the dictionary.
I have a pair of 405s made in 2005 I bought in maybe 2013-2014 second hand and the finishing is much closer to the older pair in terms of the stitching and the other cosmetic things you highlight. I paid about $300 for them, they seemed to have been worn MAYBE once or twice when I got them, and that feels about the right price for them to be honest. I have another pair of 403s I also bought second hand for $350 maybe 5-6 years ago. I find them very comfortable, but I'd be very, very hard pressed justifying their current price for new ones.
Maybe they cut quality after the 2008/2009 financial crisis. Seems to me that is when a lot of corners where cut in a lot of aspects in life.
Fair play to Alden for not throwing a hissyfit with your honest review… and we are really greatful as always 😊
Totally agree. Then again, it is kind of hard to dispute when your boot is cut in half and examined outright. For whatever reasons they make them as they do, or what elements they are employing to market them, there is no hiding from the truth in construction, build quality, or materials. Best to keep silent and hope no one notices or cares. If you note, even the fanboys and supporters have reasons OTHER than the makeup of the boot as their reasons for owning them. And that's fine. For those who care about value and the other things here, we are glad to see firsthand.
Alden doesn't care at all. They sell what they make and their customers like them
There will never be any improvement of any product if people keep buying them and paying a premium. Yes, I own Indy’s.
I've reconsidered my purchase plans based on this video. Pass.@@gnarl12
Split leather has looser fiber structure and isn't as strong as top grain. However that lower density could be leveraged to provide a more padded feel as an insole, where strength gives way to comfort as a design attribute. Pair that with thicker cork and the older shoe (when new) was more comfortable probably.
I’m an hvac tech and totally agree with flat sole or little lug to prevent bringing crap into a home. Totally love vibrant cristy for that very reason. I put them on all my work boots I make for myself
Its impressive how good those old boots still look on the outside. and while the split leather might be lower quality, seems to have held up really well in 30 years, so maybe on the inside there its just not needed.
The split grain leather was becoming more common in popular shoes like the nikes, converses, and adidas around 1987. So it makes sense that the boot itself is having that same treatment because every other shoe was going thru that next phase.
Except this is a boot, not a shoe, and other high end boot brands did not make a similar shift to using splits.
Piss poor excuse to use the business model of Taiwanese Nikes for $600 boots
One shoe that uses (always have?) split leather as part of the upper is Urban Shepherd. Their historic focus was work boots and using splits may have been normal for that usage and region. They are fully leather lined and generously waxed and by no means done on the cheap like adidas and Nike. Urban Shepherd's have impressive quality and workmanship. We also should remember that vegetable tanned leather, split or top grained, is tougher than soft chrome tanned leathers.
late 70's is when florsheim switched to leather board heels stacks and I'm told toe and heel stiffiners. The gunboats anyways stayed with a good quality leather sole all the way to the bitter end until they left for india.
I started with Red Wing Heritage boots years ago but every forum was touting the Alden boots. Ended up buying a dozen pairs in different leathers over a few years. Thought the Alden was the king of boots. Eventually ended up going for other brands as well in the same or more price range and was amazed at the build quality of the other brands. Now my Alden collection is a few pairs of Indy boots just for the nostalgia of the look. Got rid of the shell and others. Couple of issues for me was materials for the cost, the slipping around tongue, but the biggest for me was how the leather on the sides gradually stretched to where the eyelets are almost touching. Use tongue pads and wear thick merino socks with them and I did order the correct size.
Wow, and I thought cordovan wasn't supposed to stretch like cattle leather. Well now we know.
I bought a pair of 405s in San Fran back in 2006. They have the canvas inners. Absolutely love them. Wouldn't class them as an adventure boot but Alden has the 404 which is the same design with a full one piece Vibrim style sole and heal.
I'd certainly use then as adventure boots.
The lining in the video I think is a cotton duck. I’m pretty sure that the ones in 2006 had the Cambrelle linings. If not, they switched over around that time. (Mine are roughly that vintage and have the Cambrelle lining.)
I would love a series on the best Indy boot style alternatives
Really enjoyed the video! I got mine in 2002. Alden still referred to the boot as style No. 405 back then. Got them resoled by an independent cobbler in 2016.
Weston has arrived. You know you've succeeded when Reddit accuses you of selling out. F*ck the haters man, keep cutting them boots! For every grousing neckbeard there's six of me, new boot fan spending big money.
Rose Anvil bashing the split leather footbed but it’s held up pretty good for 30 years and quite a bit of wear. Seems like a non-issue. As others mentioned the looser fibers may provide better cushion and easier break-in. Also might have better breathability.
What is the 405 adventurer build going to be? Just slap a lug sole on an you’re good to go? Plenty of boots could be made to be dressier or more rugged just by the sole.
I like Rose Anvil but this Alden hate is a bit much at this point. I will agree they do seem overpriced though.
Yup that’s the irony. He doesn’t realize all these claims of inferior quality would affect durability yet look at how those shoes have held up 😂
The split leather might have to do with Alden's customer base. They are primarily a dress shoe company. Dudes who wear suits 5 days a week might not be willing to tolerate a hard-core break in period. Unlike Red Wings, Alden's are comfortable out of the box.... Alden can sell the "luxury" of instant comfort 🙄
If you're wearing suits you aren't wearing 405's five days a week. I don't own 405's but I do own a pair of 'indy's' in shell on the barrie last. I don't wear them with suits unless it's raining. Also for a dress shoe you want quality materials top to bottom, the same as a work boot. My Crockett and Jones handgrade shoes are top to bottom built with materials in many cases nicer than a PNW boot, with finishing that's ten times nicer.
I think the red wing would have been a much better adventure boot with its lug sole. Rather ironically the golden fox overlord at 147 bucks seems to be a better adventurer themed boot
@@matthewcaughey8898 Red Wing needs midsole. I took my IR's on flat hike and they had problems with sole and ankle support. They ace city streets, though.
@@matthewcaughey8898 The lug sole is new. They added it in like 2019. I think in the 1930's he likely would have worn some kind of boots with hobnails in them.
You don’t need to have split leather to have less of a break in period, not all full grain leather is stiff, it depends on the necessities of the client and what the tannery can do. It’s a decision only based on cost.
I’ve always loved the look of these boots. I really wish they were made to the $600 price point. Thanks for saving me from anticipointment of them not living up to my hopes…
Buy a used older pair
Yeah, thing is, I don't mind things being priced really high, as long as they're actually that value in quality. $2000, I'm okay with that, if I'm actually getting $2000 in value (factoring in profit margins, of course). Granted, I don't think I could ever afford actual $2000 boots, even if they are worth it. It's just a hypothetical. Plus, I'm not exactly the type of person who could get much value of a boot of that value anyway.
Be great to see you check out some top-tier European alternatives like Cheaney, Crockett & Jones, Tricker's, Carlos Santos, Carmina, Church's etc. There's a lot more out there than Red Wing & co.
In Meermins they use split leather insole. In my experience it molded to my feet super fast, and it was really comfy, flexible and broken in and it stayed the same next to Red wing insoles that take over half of the year to get to that state. After all Alden started as anatomical footware brand. Maybe that is it
Meermin is 1/3 of the price tho
Glad you did this follow up. Really cool to see how boots that have been around for awhile have changed over time.
Profit profit profit 😢
@@scottessery100 Indeed. Welcome to Capitalism!
I have a pair of Alden shoes that I bought in 1989 and which Alden today calls the Plain Toe Blucher. The leather is Black Cordovan and the shoes have been extremely comfortable and durable throughout the years. I have changed the soles twice (raw rubber) and the shoes still look good, but they need restoration especially at the topline/cuff where the leather is now disintegrating after 34 years despite good maintenance. In any case, I would say without a doubt that Harrison Ford has good taste when it comes to shoes/boots :)
Great video, I am glad i opted to buy my Iron rangers as my first MITUSA boot. When the time comes to resole, I'll upgrade them to have a leather midsole and that will put them over the top for me.
I love my Indy Boots, as the last (wide in the front, normal in the back) really fit my weird feet, and I love the look. But are they “worth” the price I paid? Absolutely not! “Luckily” I knew what I was getting into, though - but still. In general, I don’t recommend them to people. Or at least people need to know that they’re overpaying for a certain look and fit. Still very happy with mine, though! And will take good care of them for years. When it’s time to re-sole, I’ll go for something with some proper lugs.
So what the Alden enthusiasts told me is true. Not much has really changed in the boots. By your own words too, it's pretty negligible as well. Alden needs to up their QC though.
Very cool shot at 11:47, nice work on the production side of things!
I ordered a new pair of Alden Indy 401 boots today from the Shoe Mart. It says it’s calf leather like the 405, just painted black.
I always have to wear insoles on all my shoes because I get back pain if I don’t, hopefully these will be comfortable for a few years. Hopefully the arch support will help me.
I appreciate the video!
"Split grain is garbage!!" *Waves at perfectly fine 30 year old boot*
Do you think having a split leather insole would help in the summer for sweat absorption and help keep your foot from sliding around in there?
Not sure if anyone already mentioned, but I read a while back the boots for the fifth movie we’re actually made by a costume design company that does a lot of work for Disney.
Another reason why the 5th movie is trash
A knockoff Alden boot for a knockoff Indy movie. How fitting.
Slightly related, but just saw The Iron Snail’s most recent video on the Russell Moccasin Backcountry and loved the breakdown and immediately went to see a video where you cut it in half. It may be buried in with a bunch of Moc toe videos, but I just couldn’t find it! If it doesn’t exist yet, I’d love to see it. It sounds like a boot marvel on the inside!
The only observation I'll take issue with is the complaint about the pigment finish on the outer leather. You may not like it (and I might agree with you), but back in the day, pigment finish was a very common finish for leather that was being used to make working man's clothes. So it actually makes a lot of sense that Alden is using this leather. They've probably been buying it ever since they started getting leather from Horween.
This, look at almost any pair of vintage 1930s work boots and onward and you find lots of pigmented leather, including in brick red, like my vintage ‘40s Thorogoods. It was also common to see no midsole, just a cork full sole with a rubber top lift attached directly. I even have a ‘60s pair of Outdoorsman work boots with a plastic welt lol
Please do trickers stow and some of the other English boot makers. Also paraboot Michael would be cool to see too
+1
I have NEVER heard anyone complain about the heel liner in a pair of Indy’s. I have owned maybe a dozen Alden’s now and have never felt discomfort because of the heel liner.
Now you have twice, because I didn't like it either!
If they're so good how have you gone through 12 of them? What?
I have boots with synthetic cushioned insoles like San Joe Keens. Having 3 pairs of Thursday Captains with one pair with over 6500 hrs and two pairs of Allen Edmonds Daltons …the Thursday and AE’s both have the leather insoles…after wearing them for in most daily case 9hrs/day and upwards to 12hrs…my feet come out smelling like leather. The inside of the boots..smell like leather!
However the Keen San Jose ..even my Merrells or anything with the synthetic cushioned insoles…well, let’s just say…some significant airing out is required 😊
So…I am taking my Keens Merrells (full leather winter hiker) etc to my cobbler and going to ask them to customize a leather inlay over the synthetic insoles…Leather is KING!
By the way..those Thursday Captains…bang for buck, is by far one of the best boots I have purchased..yes the AE’s are beautiful, feel great…but at $700 you they’re not your normal daily driver as you are always concerned about marking them up, scuffs gouges etc. whereas for my line of work…and in both office and field settings…Business/business casual and the Thursdays are perfect for that. Little polish, some Saphir leather conditioner and these boots will look good from the field to the boardroom…
One thing I am I also want to do to my AE’s is add a Dainite sole ..the base leather sole though nice…is very very slippery on anything other than dry pavement 😱
You should review Allen Edmonds Normandy boot. They were originally made for soldiers in ww2
You should do a cut in half of the J-Crew Kenton Pacer to see how they compare to the 405. They are an affordable 405/carpenter boot made in china, which is under 300. Considering that is how much the 405s should cost should make for an interesting video.
I have 405s that are marked 7K7. I bought them around 2014, so I'm guessing they were made in 2007 (possibly 1997 but i doubt it). They are almost completely like the older boots in this video except the leather is closer to that new orange color and the leather in-between the white laces on the toe is not beveled. They are in fantastic condition. The heel blocks on mine look way different from both boots in this video. They have a couple layers that look like wood but match other parts of the shoe. The heel blocks may have been replaced by the previous owner, but they look really good.
Interestingly, I recently had a reoccurrence of plantar fasciitis that was very bad.
I broke out my alden 405’s from their special storage place, put them on, & the pain almost instantly receded. A couple days in over the weekend, & it’s almost healed.
I can’t wear my aldens at work. However, if one has foot pain issues, they are amazing.
Lmao what happened at 7:00 my dude 😂
Split insoles adsorb sweat better so they conform to your foot quicker. They also wear out quicker.
Love these Videos,Old vs New Keep it up!
Drews boots $350 made in Mexico logger boot would be very interesting to cut 🪚🪚🪚
It would be interesting to see something like a Trenton & Heath collab about putting a Rose Anvil cut open boot BACK together :D
You should try to cut in half a pair of Skechers leather shoes, like Tom Cats, Alley Cats or Seargents Choice. I had a pair and they were super durable for the affordable price. I wonder how would they do on your test.
Sketchers leather boots are awesome value, but the soles are very slick on wet asphalt. A great deal at around $80.
I mean doesn’t the split leather insole on the thirty year old boot still being intact kinda show that split leather insoles work perfectly fine?
No way of knowing how long those boots were actually worn for. Could have been purchased from an estate sale and the guy only wore them for a couple years in the 80's before they went into storage. No way of knowing. Either way, they're overpriced by looking at materials in within the same price point
LOVE the honesty
They're worth $400 and that's what I paid for seconds. Aside from the pencil eraser rubber heel, they've been super durable and taken me up mountains and over rocky archaeological sites. Just watch out for slick rocks in creeks.
Are they though?
You can get brand new Iron Rangers for $350 & they're significantly better made with significantly better materials.
@@pewpewTN I love my Iron Rangers, but they don't have a midsole, which means I can't take them off-road without pain. And IR materials are not better than Indy. Sole and heel are durable synthetic rubber. Upper is good but no better than Horween CXL on my dark brown Indy. IR is a city boot. Indy is a city boot that can go off-road successfully.
@ 5:48 I like how the laces are crossed. :: I am new into the lingo of footwear ::
You know what brand I've been wanting to see on here? CABoots. From what I've heard, they seem pretty good. My Grandfather had an old pair from 25ish years ago, and he said they were his favorite boot. I'm planning to get a pair myself. I just haven't yet.
I'm still waiting on some Mephistos.
@@kcgunesq I actually haven't heard of that brand. Do you know anything about them?
I've never noticed any discomfort in any of my Alden's from the foam patch at the heel. You'd think if it was a common complaint, they would have done away with it after all these years.
It was pretty much the standard with all shoes for a long time.
Weston must have messed up heels
I love your videos and thank you for all the information pertinent to buying a $655 boot. Having said that, watching you cut a beautiful pair of boots in half is like witnessing and murder.
Great video! Can you do a review on Broken Homme boots? My current pair has lasted over 5 years. Thanks!
What would be a good quality less expensive (not inferior) version of this boot?
Whoever is editing these videos keeps stepping up and showing off with each new release! First off, amazing work! The details are noticed! Second off, take a break you busy bee!
I really need a nice looking boot with a wider toe like this, but not $655. I have Jim Green boots and they are my favorite, but i want that classic look while still not squishing my toes
I'd really love to see a breakdown of the "Austrian Meme Boots" from Steinkogler. They're quite popular in combat boot circles.
Be interesting to see a 70s Red Wing pair vs new
Such a shame the finishing and cost cutting have let the new boot down. But as they say you pay for the name great video 2x👍
Great video!
You have to cut the Parkhurst - Niagara boot in half! It is an Indy clone with better materials for $400
I beg to differ. The Parkhurst Niagara isn't a clone, it's a better made and better value moc toe boot, period.
Just wanted to say that your production quality has gotten so damn high in the past few months. I'm constantly impressed by the graphics and engaging b-roll, as a video producer I gotta give you props on it!
I feel like pigmented finish is a fashion or tehnology of gone by era that we font really feel like they did. We have overdy and tee core leather to simulate that patina look, but original always seems to look way different in my eyes
They also used a synthetic Cambrelle lining at one point. That's the best one.
What is your recomendation for a alden replacement? Based on the quality and ortophedic last?
Funny, I'm wearing my shell Indys today.
I bought mine in 2001ish for $200 from Fritz in Thousand Oaks, CA. He sold Aldensto Ford. He said the pair I bought were old stock. Sounds like I may have a good pair.
The split insole is superior because it absorbs better and grips better and it never cracks.
Well that just cured me of considering Alden for any shoe/boot purchases, lol. I love watching cobbler videos but I get so much out of the simple act of you guys lopping a piece of footwear in half with a band saw and showing the internals and deep diving the materials and construction that it's really helped shape my upcoming purchases and narrow down the players.
My take: the price didn't used to be nearly as premium, so it made sense to use cheaper materials where you could (also the idea of using all the parts, in the suitable parts). The price shot up, but the mentality didn't change.
still BS
allen admonds are made the same exact way and RED wings, BS BS BS BS BS BS alden
Great video! Love to see some Indy content. If you ever dive back into barefoot shoes I'd love to hear your take on the Zaqq Expeq and the new Vivobarefoot Magna Lite SG
I really love my Alden Indy boots, they are the most comfortable boots I’ve ever owned, disappointed they let quality slip over the years, but I think they’re still a quality boot, just a bit over priced
Not a “bit.” These boots are massively overpriced for the level of build quality. This is a $250 boot, period. For $650, you should be getting a nicks or whites boot. Both are miles ahead of Alden in build quality. Even a red wing moc is way better built for $300.
@@whereRbearsTeethare you comparing it to other boots with all US components made with American labor?
@@whereRbearsTeethExactly! I am a PNW boots (specifically White's) fan and I wouldn't pay more than $200 for Alden Indy boots.
@@whereRbearsTeethRedwing moc toes were some of the most uncomfortable shoes I’ve ever had.
I appreciate you calling out Alden for making nice boots that also happen to be overpriced. I always considered mine to be a premium boot, so I was disappointed to see what you exposed 'under the hood.'
Fwiw, I bought my Indy 405s in late 2005 for $305 from the flagship boutique on Madison Avenue in NYC; that's only $477.00 in 2023, even with hideous current inflation. They had the orangey 'pumpkin' leather with canvas lining.
The Cork sole has held up extremely well, and I've just had my heels replaced for the fourth time (btw, Thomas heels are getting harder to find; my local cobbler installed a oversized heel and manually cut it down on the pinky side). The uppers are decent, with some cracking just starting around the outer toe joint areas. The speed hooks were a joke - they started bending, then breaking after just a few wears (I had them drilled out and replaced with simple brass hole eyelets). The canvas is not stinky (I alternate shoes, so no consecutive days' wear) but I finally wore a hole in the lining above the big toes. Totally agree about the inside heel area. I've had to re-glue the heel covering down a few times and yes, it has an uncomfortable transition since it's not skived.
Steve of Bedo's Leatherworks wears these boots a lot and does nice YT videos on rebuilding them to be worthy of their price. At a premium added cost, of cost!
Makes me love my Thursdays even more.
This is the one we've been waiting for.
Never thought I'd see Middleboro show up somewhere
I've worn the same pair since I bought them new in 2010. I did have them resoled 5 years ago, but that's it. I never went out of my way to beat on them, but I have worn the snot out of them. They've seen countless days at Disneyland as well. They're the only pair of boots I really wear, though I do have a pair of 403's for dressier boots that I got in 2021. My other footwear is all tennies.
The Aldens don't see nearly as much wear in the summer months, as I'm in California. So between about July and September they really only get worn in the evenings. But if I have jeans on, I'm certainly wearing the Aldens as well.
Other than the tongue on the right foot moving around (from driving, I quickly learned to force it over to the left when I put them on) and the crappy pair of laces that Alden sell them with, and seems like they always have, I really don't have any complaints. The heel patch has never bothered me, and the duck cotton on mine isn't discolored at all. As for the smell, well I'm blessed with minimal body odor apparently, and they don't seem to have any odor. I also should note I've had diabetic neuropathy for the last 15 years or so.
I agree they are overpriced.
Are they at least comfy while you walk around your shop?
I really hope you get the time to look at the RM Williams Rigger Commando Boot, their premium hard use boot. We know they can make a good Chelsea, but I really am curious about how much they rely on their name for their rugged boots.
And what about the leather used in Lacoste shoes? I'd love to see the test.
and that is why change is not always for the better. this apply to everythings
I've been looking for some indie-alikes, do you have any suggestions in the 200-250 range that these should be?
Could you do a Trickers derbys review or in general any models from this brand ?
Another great video. Thanks!$
@RoseAnvil how do you feel about the prices of USA made boots and with what you get from them? Is there certain brands that are latching onto high prices just because other makers are getting those prices? Seems like the prices are extremely inflated.
Could you do a video on the wested leather co Indy boots?
Where did you find these boots and what size did you buy? If it’s 10.5D I’m going to be super bummed…
Would Love a comparisson to the wested leather boots beacuse they are very affordable
*_I love this channel because even though I don't agree on some of his opinions I still love his more thorough brake down of shoe construction. I personally believe anyone could do a better job at making shoes but the smarter people aren't blessed with any re money to start a shoe company. KENYA WE NEED YOU BUDDY AMERICA NEEDS YOU TO BUY THE EQUIPMENT AND FACTORIES NEEDED TO MAKE BETTER SHOES!!!_*
That factory would be taken over by warlords in one month.
@@danlutter8061By the Nigerian Princesses.
Can you cut apart the whites moc toes again? I heard they changed the insides since you cut them apart and they’ve increased in price
you should check out some spingle move shoes from japan, super interesting shoe, I think it would make for an interesting review
what happened at 7:00?
Came here to say this 🤣
Seems like there are LOADS of American-made boot companies today -- perhaps more than before? In addition to Alden, there's Red Wing, Thorogood,, and all those great PNW companies.
So that “sub par” split leather insole on the 30 year old boot. How did it hold up? From the side angle it seems to still be doing it’s job just fine. Perhaps for a footbed the extra durability of a full grain leather is unnecessary? Might be like using some titanium alloy compound for the eyelets. Stronger than brass, but providing no practical advantage.
Always soo funny that you never talk about the actual service from manufacture's not to mention the style that "Big Spender's" love. Alden's has impeccable reconditioning and service w/ actual wood lasts, plus you only like "Box of Awesome".
How do we know whether the differences are not from a resole?
Could this be done with an rm williams comfort craftsman boot? Might be a good video, it hasn't been covered but there's so many anecdotes of how new boots are now lower quality. Also would be a nice look into how manufacturing and materials has changed since LVMH bought RM Williams and then the Investment company buying it back to Australia
Can you please do some Allen Edmonds videos? Preferably their boots.
Could you analyse the Wested leather Indy boots?
How do these compare to the Thursday's President, Cadet, or Captain boot?
Jim Green AR8 are the ultimate adventure boot!!! I've tested and its proven 👍
The standards for "adventure," especially to the unrealistic extremes of Dr. Jones, would basically be identical to the standards for service boots. Light weight, durability, ankle support, grip. If staying contemporary to the original movies (not recent heresies!) This basically means either actual service boots at the time, especially some coming out of England during WWII, or the early dedicated work boots like Redwing.
The main upshot in allowing for modern styles/materials would be a huge advantage to weight, grip, and comfort concerns at a likely loss of durability (unless you're spending way more than is a fair comparison to the original cost of the older boots.)
For instance, lugged rubber soles are extremely recent. For Indy's time, he would basically have either a smooth leather sole, or a smooth sole studded with hobnails. And the nails didn't really increase traction so much as retard wear for soldiers on the march. They would help on sand, dirt, small rocks, but would actually be even worse than smooth leather on hard, flat surfaces where they could almost be like ice-skates. Imagine climbing onto a Nazi U-boat at sea! So, rubber soles would be the most useful innovation that one might bring in from the more modern period. Which is obviously something service boots did immediately irl. Actually, survice boots have been at the forefront of development in these areas. So, I don't really see any difference between an ideal "Indiana Jones style" adventure boot and an ideal service boot.
I agree. For the period, the 405 flat cork sole fits with the standard boots men had access to at the time. Lugged rubber soles really didn't become a standard until the 60s.