GE Dishwasher - Troubleshooting a dead user interface
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2021
- In this video, I demostrate how to troubleshoot a dead user interface on a GE dishwasher, Model GDT695SMJ2ES. To watch my tutorial on replacing the user interface control board, click the following link:
• GE Dishwasher Repair ...
I am not a professional repair technician. This video is for educational purposes only, and I assume no responsibility for any repairs that you attempt on your own. Please only attempt repairs that you are comfortable performing, and always disconnect the power before working on any appliance.
Thanks for watching!
Music: www.bensound.com 
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Great video! But why are SO many of us having this same issue? Any class-action lawyers on here wanna get something going? Assuming the 65K views of this video (as of today Jan 3 2023) are people watching it multiple times to get all the details, that's still THOUSANDS of us apparently having this problem. And I am so FURIOUS that this issue only started for me EXACTLY after my 5 year extended warranty (yes, I am that sucker who buys warranties) expired. WTAF. Thank you Matt for your amazing videos.
I agree, too many with the same problem.
Max, I am having the same issues on a 2-yr old GE dishwasher. First I spent almost $300 with a local 4.8* rated tech who changed the control panel and then the mother board and then left frustrated. Now I am struggling with a GE authorized tech who already made two visits and I am still in limbo after paying another $150+ to him! We certainly think of a class-action lawsuit.
I have the exact same issue
Mine just did this also.
Me too
Great video. Our dishwasher is less than 3 years old and we encountered the same problem. Thanks to Matt I was able to identify the problem as the UI. Problem is, the part is on backorder at GE and they. kept pushing the ETA back by weeks and weeks. After waiting for over a month and with no confidence the part would EVER arrive, we bought a new Maytag. We will NEVER buy another GE appliance. The company is owned by the Chinese (Haier) and they are sourcing all these components from China. Enough said.
I have GE Model DDT595 and I just spent the past two hours reviewing your videos to figure out what my problem was. I was definitely not looking forward to attempting to remove the door and replace the UI board. Luckily, after turning the power off and on through the breaker, (which didn't seem to do anything) I decided to randomly hold the Cycle select and Start button. Light came on and displayed error code 817. I googled the code and discovered that I need to follow some steps to reset the computer module, and it WORKED! Hopefully, this will help some people with their GE issue. What a pain ! but i'm so glad I didn't need to go through all the steps in the two videos!
Great video. Helped me diagnose that our user interface board was bad. Saved us lots in buying a new dishwasher. Thanks
Great video! Your symptoms were identical to what our dishwasher was doing. Did the tests and sounds like I'm ordering a new User Interface board.
Your videos are great and very easy to follow. Thank you for making them. I have the exact same model and successfully changed the user interface with no problems.
Bought a replacement board on eBay for $60 and replaced my old one and it fixed the issue. Thanks for the video!
Update: now the user interface broke. Replacing that next.
Great set of videos (this troubleshooting one plus the repair one) for this problem. I have the same dishwasher (different color) and had the exact same problem at the 3-year mark, like so many other owners. As I was taking it apart, simply unplugging the cable that goes from the door to the main unit and then plugging it back in reset the UI and it lit up (at least temporarily). This will buy me some time to find the new board and replace the faulty one. I took the dishwasher all apart just to practice and am fully confident now with the repair once the part arrives. Thanks again for your help with this detailed tutorial.
Any updates? I am trying to troubleshoot mine....I turn off the breaker and unplug the power to the dishwasher control board and randomly it resets. I don't want to guess I want to be sure I am replacing the correct part that needs to be replaced.
Did it last?
Excellent step-by-step instructions. I successfully chnaged the control panel with your directions. Savings and total gratification satisfied. Thank you!
Great help. Thanks a bunch. Helped me realize it was the control board and not the User Interface control board.
@Matt Payne, thank you so much for these videos. I was able to avoid costly repairs and track down the issue in my dishwasher.
Great video. Best one after all of the things I have looked at but confirms the current condition of my dishwasher. I replaced the door switch already and that solved the problem for a day or so and then back to no power. Won’t even turn on now. It’s Xmas eve day so ain’t finding no parts today.
Oh, so your having the same experience as me on XMas. It’s not the door switch. I replaced mine a year ago and thought it was. Al you need is a basic electrical tester to check the switch. The one I removed is fine
People... killing the power by unplugging or tripping the circuit breaker is only a maybe and or temporary reset fix. It'll go dead again. So after a month with no 2 yr. old dishwasher, the GE repairman has replaced the power control board (the down below control panel) and wiring element but still no power. Dead in the water without a paddle...I think it's maybe the user interface control panel board. GE I've had it! It's not the space shuttle it's a friggin dishwasher. LG is in my future.
Same problem here
I’m having the same problem
Can you add detail on what it means if the light IS blinking on the main control board?
Were you able to get an answer on this? Having the same problem and also noticed that the main control is blinking... I unplugged everything, hooked it back up, the dishwasher worked once, and now, is dead again. Thank you for any information you may provide.
Same
If you still have your manual there should be a table for this on the service information sheet - "service LED" light. The status is indicated by the rate of blinking.
For my model, which is not the model in this video, but may still be true for your model:
•the first few rates are all normal operations and indicate whether it's running a cycle, paused, door open etc.
The error light patterns are:
• 7x per 3 sec: CSM (Current Sense Module) has tripped
• 1x per second: communications lost between control boards. Check connections, replace UI (User Interface) board if necessary
• If it's blinking more than 4x a sec (aka super fast) that indicates "software failure replace board"
@MultiSo3 @linglee5879
Your video was great and easy to follow .. I was able to fix my dishwasher with the same part (user interface board). Thanks!!
Thanks for the tips on diagnosing the problem… just finished fixing mine with the exact same issue👍
Ed E
I had the same problem at 4 years: sporadic music, then eventually total darkness of the display. Troubleshooting took some time, but it appears that I reached the solution. Turned out to be the plug inside the box where (the wires are connected to power). It was giving intermittent power to the panel, and when jiggled a bit in just the right way, would restore power to the view panel and the dishwasher.
However, this jiggling was not a permanent solution. Since half of the plug is built-in to the circuit board, and I could not detach one of the plugs to the board, I could not remove the board to work on that part. After closeup photos of each side of the plug (that on the circuit board, and the other which plugs into the circuit board) I could see nothing amiss with the either half. What tipped me off to both the original discovery of the bad plug and the final solution was seeing arching through the semi-transparent white plug when it was plugged in with power on. I reasoned that the intermittent arching over time had deposited metal oxide dust within the switch. What to do? I used the red flexible plastic tube on my WD-40 can and squirted the oil into each side of the switch multiple times. Hopefully the insulating dust particles are now washed from the plug, and it will be smooth sailing. The plug seems to restore the display immediately each time the plug is plugged in now. No arching visible at least. Everything works now (it still plays a tune every so often, but at least we can wash dishes without disassembly).
😊
Thanks for the awesome video it helped me fix my dishwasher for a fraction of what It would of cost . Thank u again bro .
But you said if it’s static led light then the chtr board is good. What about when is blinking ?
Thank you for these videos. I've got a GTC535 model and i checked the voltage my main control board was sending to the display UI and it was bouncing between 6 and 18 volts, so I bought a new control board and it was doing the same thing. Bought a new display UI and watched your video on that to replace it. As soon as I got the door back on and the connector plugged in I heard the most beautiful sound I've ever heard, the dishwasher beeped and powered up after months of being out of commission.
where is the video showing how to replace the display UI on diswasher door ?
Great tutorial TY !! Just lil added info check the latch as well , can give same symptoms.
Thanks for the video! I had the same problem, you saved me a few hundred $$$!!!!
Thank you for this video. You explain how to unlock the controls: something the manual fails to do.
My washer has had the same exact issue over the past 2 years. Finally stopped resetting w breaker flip about 6 months ago. Just came upon this video. I will have to try and see what results I get. Also same make/model i believe as yours.
Thanks a lot man. I have the same model, with the same problem. This just made life easier. Have a great day, and I really appreciate it.
Thanks a million for this Matt!
Amazing thanks facing same issue this willnhelp me attempt a repaire on my own again many thanks
I'm really glad to hear you found this video helpful! Thanks for watching!
Good video, I have been repairing appliances for 27yrs. I constantly see these issues. Usually a tech sheet underneath tells what the flashes mean. I have had 2 that flash rapidly which says not corresponding with UI.
I have GE Model# GDF640HSM2SS. After 2.5 year my dishwasher completely went dark. In the electrical junction box when I tighten black(hot) and gray wire, then lights come up back in UI board and dishwasher starts working. This tells me main control board and UI board are working fine. I wonder how wire would get loose especially dishwasher worked fine for 2.5 years. Issue has happening 3 times now but works after the wire is tightened. Any suggestions on wire tightening so it doesn't keep happening again?
So... I had all these symptoms, did all the power resets, and was getting ready to replace the UI board but held off until I got the old one out to verify p/n. In the meantime, I had a power outage and ran on my generator...lo and behold... the dishwasher comes back to life! It has been running for 2 months now... still showing the random lighting of the panel. My generator is from the 70's and I'm over speeding it for voltage drop and spiking the Hertz.
I see it's been a year since you put this video up but I have done every step that you've done and narrowed it down to the inner control on the door itself. Put a new one in hook everything back up and still now power to the controls on the door. Is it possible I could've gotten a bad one?
Very good video, Thank You Matt
Thanks so much-the lock button was the answer!!
Posting thia as a top level comment for others that find this vid.
If you still have your manual/original docs there should be a service manual sheet and there is a table that tells you what the different blinking patterns indicate (which board is the issue or if something has tripped etc)
If you dont have that you can probably search for your model's manual on the Internet or via GE's site
Nice explanation.
Very helpful !!!! Thank you !!!
Great video! Was about to order new user interface after checking some things. Disconnected 5 pin connector on the bottom and reconnected and is working good. Not sure if loose connection but is working good now. Every now and then will make random chime noise so will see how long it will last
These are great videos. Thanks!
Where did you find the meaning on the led on the main board? Having the same issue but I just replaced the user interface and it didn’t fix it…
I have no light on my main control board but i have power at the controls..just wont start
My GE dishwasher went quiet with no lights and just had service on it. The issue was remedied simply by unplugging the white connector from the harness and reconnecting it. The lights came back and the dishwasher is functioning again.
That will most likely be a short lived fix. The UI PCB is a weak link and fails routinely....Just FYI
Any updates? I am trying to troubleshoot mine....I turn off the breaker and unplug the power to the dishwasher control board and randomly it resets. I don't want to guess I want to be sure I am replacing the correct part that needs to be replaced.
Great video thanks for the help
Thank u for sharing. I powered mine up. Bought it used. At first no power like yours then , when I pushed it back in the cabinets it powered up. Started to run. Not sure what’s going on now I just get the beep sound now.
Great trouble shooting guider. Question: Disher washer now works, what fixes the occasional beeping,,,,
This worked! Thanks so much!!
So my issue started out exactly the same as you had described at the beginning of this video, and was temporarily resolved for a few more runs via power resets. However, during my most recent attempt to power reset, the UI board seemingly worked just fine, but the dishwasher was no longer working in response to it. That is to say, I could still set the wash cycle settings, enter error mode, and even correctly register if the door was shut or not, but the wash cycle never started. Error mode tests also yielded zero response or action. Granted, I never ran error mode tests before now, so I'm really hoping that my issue is also just replacing the UI board and nothing else. Will update this comment when my replacement UI board arrives.
EDIT: replaced the UI board. It works now!
Any word back if the new board worked?
@@brianshockley6429 good news, new board worked just fine! I only had to run an empty wash cycle afterwards so that my dishwasher reset/drained to its dry state properly.
I notice some brown stuff on the control board where the power is....specifically on the 2 hot connections...ground connection is only one that doesn't have it....I wonder what's up with this
I have 10 volts dc coming from the board. Is that enough voltage to run user interface? Please let me know thanks in advance.
Thank you so much sir
Would anyone know if it's possible for my main board to have a green light solid but not putting out 14 volts? That's what I'm looking at now
This dishwasher is junk especially for the price. New control board and door control and control out for the third time. Great video on how to service.
Some of the UI conditions may be resolved by removing each connector and spraying with an electrical contact cleaner. I might suggest connecting and removing each connector several times to clean the connector pins. If cleaning the bottom connectors don/t work you could try the same procedure on the UI board.
I can tell you why that works,. It is the same reason that MANY electronic parts are replaced needlessly on automobiles. Oxidation corrosion on the micro pins and couplers in the data cables. I took the dash apart on my 2009 International road tractor and pulled all the data links. Pulled them on and off several times then put computer connector grease on each one. Never another problem for the remaining 8 years I owned it. It was a high moisture environment from being closed up and sleeping in it every night.
This morning I watched a video of someone replacing the lower board in a GE dishwasher like mine (Mine is 3 YO) because it went dead. I pulled it back apart and just removed and replaced several times both the main power connector and the data cable going to the UI. Would be nice if these companies would either spend $5 on a tube of anti oxidant grease or used gold plated connectors. Just my 2 cents!!
What if I am getting 30.4 V across those two pins?
So checking with pins 2 and 5, what setting is the meter on and what color prob goes to what pin when checking for voltage?
DC volts and it shouldn't matter which probe you use. You might see a negative sign in front of the voltage if reversed.
Thank you for the great video, it gave me a lot of insight. Question though, if I'm pulling 30 volts from my number two and number five pin, what does that mean, is it the main control board, or is that acceptable voltage to be coming from it?
That's a crazy high voltage, and definitely not normal. Double check you're testing the right pins, but it sounds to me like your main board (which should be supplying 14 volts) is not working correctly.
Great vid man
Hi, @ 9:20 , how did you determine that the 2nd and 5th pin are the ones where you need to check the voltage ?
Great video! Do you know what it means if main control panel LED is blinking quickly?
Update…the board is dead again. The lights were on and shortly thereafter started beeping again, and went dark again only hours later. Not the fix I had hoped for.
I had GE Service and they replaced the control board. Fortunately, I had purchased the extended warranty and the repair was completely covered.
Thank you for the troubleshooting advice. I went through all the steps and when I voltage tested the pins on control board I found it was sending voltage to the UI. I was about to start looking for a UI until I put it all back together and plugged the white five pin connector back in. The green light on my control board began steadily blinking, my DW came back to life, and now is running the cycle my wife tried to run yesterday when the UI went dark. Hoping this solves the problem, but I am not optimistic my troubles are over based on several comments to this video.
Any updates? I am trying to troubleshoot mine....I turn off the breaker and unplug the power to the dishwasher control board and randomly it resets. I don't want to guess I want to be sure I am replacing the correct part that needs to be replaced.
@@macknumber9 yesterday the UI went blank again so I disconnected the main connector a few times and it didn't come back on so I went and reset the breaker then disconnected and reconnected and voila the UI came back to life and we ran a dishwasher cycle with no problems and it still working. This has worked for me twice and I hope it never happens again but if it does I'll continue this route until it finally dies if it does I will replace the UI and whatever else needs replacing.
@@tedh7543 I wonder what is wrong and what causes this...if it is bad UI or bad control board
@@macknumber9 No idea, I just know it is common with GE Dishwashers.
I feel like once you start to have these problems no matter how many times you reset the breaker or disconnect the connectors the UI board will eventually need to be replaced. This is such a common problem! GE should be sending out these replacement boards for free since they are terrible!!!
Any advice if there is no voltage across the pins? Yes, it’s plugged in and there is a green LED light on.
I have the same issue. Were you able to get an answer on this or figure this issue out? Thank you for any information you may provide.
Did this help? Was it the interface? I have a flashing green light and when I googled it, it said it was my interface not the control board.
Thanks for posting. You have the drain hose in the worst place imaginable. Every time the door opens it will rub against the drain hose and eventually rub a hole in it. The board thing with GE tips and trick though is appreciated.
Awesome Video! I'm facing the same problem on a different model. Where did you find the info on what pins send voltage and what the lights on the control board mean?
Thanks for the kind words! And sorry for my slow response...it's tough to keep up with all the comments these days. I believe I found most of the information I needed in the following forum thread:
www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/gdt695smj2es-ge-dishwasher-control-panel-is-dead.65692/
Thanks for watching!
@@mattpayne4087 yep that’s a link I found the best info on. With link to a manual.
@@mattpayne4087 yep that’s a link I found the best info on. With link to a manual.
So what do I do if it’s blinking and still not getting power to my door controls? I have power to everything.
I have the same problem as you and everyone else. Pulled control board checked for voltage and almost no volts. Plugged back life came on, so pulled connection and checked for voltage and still almost nothing for volts. Thinking ordering the interface board.
I just did the test on my GE with the exact same problems and symptoms. Everything looked exactly the same and came apart the same way as well. Only problem was there was no led light at all on the main board. I checked the voltage to the interface and got 14 volts on pins 2&5. I have a totally dead everything. I went ahead and ordered the interface thinking there may be slight variations in models.
After checking the video again I unplugged the wire to the interface before turning breaker back on. Thus the test was not accurately done.
Pin 2 and 5 give me 6 to 8 volt insted 14v. What those it mean?
My board's led is flashing, very quickly, all the time. Currently the breaker reset fixes the power to the buttons.
I tested the main control board and it has power and pulling 14 volts at pin 2&5. The green light is blinking every couple seconds. You think my issue is the user interface board? (I saw your video on how to replace, but wondering if that’s my issue).
The dishwasher shuts off completely few seconds after I start a cycle, and won’t turn back on till I unplug it and plug it back on.
How do I check if power is coming to the junction box?
Thank you!
What does it mean when the led has a continuous blink?
What was causing the beeping noise
How did you know to read 14V dc ..?? Why not 50V or 5V or AC voltage ??
If it's at 6-8v then I'd assume I would need a new main circuit board ?
Remove the capacitor right next to the connector on the UI board. 220mf 25v.
YES remove it , replacing the bad cap does not fix the issue. For all of those who have a dead UI board try this. It's a smoothing capacitor I'm assuming. No harm removing it at your own risk. For some reason this solved a completely dead board. This dishwasher will still randomly come on but I can live with it. Below is a list of revisions for the board replacement GDF530PGM0CC
WD21X24821 Original
WD21X26182 (AP6985297) updated
WD21X31909 new updated
220mf 25v capacitor
You must lo
Same problem, dead user interface but confirmed the main board had 14v coming out. Tried your comment about the capacitor since I was going to replace the user interface board anyway.
Interface powers on now without the capacitor. Capacitor has no visible bulge, but after removing it my multimeter shows it was definitely bad. Big thanks to your comment and the original video.
Thanks to @stevemaxell7741, I removed (desoldered) the capacitor right next to the connector on the UI board. 220mf 25v. Plugged in the harness from the main control board, plugged in my GE dishwasher and the UI board came back to life.
I was able to run a wash cycle as well. As noted, the UI board still randomly turns on/off, even during the wash cycle, but it retains the status and time and continues the wash cycle where it left off.
If you have 14v from the main board, I suggest trying this hack before replacing the UI board.
Mine just needs a quick polish of the ground bolt on the main board. Have done it twice now in a few years. First it starts randomly beeping, then the display does dead and it won't turn on for anything. I just drop the panel and polish the ground bolt. And it's magically back. Have never replaced any part of it.
Can you take a picture of this ground bolt such that I might locate it? And how did you polish it? With what?
there are a few boards in my piece of over engineered crap. do you mean the one he with green led - which tested 2 and 5 of?
Has anyone ever had an issue with just the Start button dying? My Start and Steam buttons don't respond, but everything else does. Problem being, I can't turn the dishwasher on. Not sure if replacing the whole interface is worth it, or what.
My board was square and LED was rapidly blinking which indicated new circuit control board needed.
Thanks, I have the same problem! Where did you find the info for what the light condition means?
@@AM-py5vg
I got lucky and found in the comments on a different video
I just replaced my circuit board and it’s still blinking rapidly. No power to the user interface either by testing the pins. Waste of money buying a new circuit board. Will be getting a different dishwasher, preferably not by GE
FYI
I read of the light is solid underneath
It’s the UI in the Door..
Amazing how many videos and articles there are about this piece of crap ge dishwashers
Awesome Video! I'm facing the same problem on a different model. My model is GE-GDF640 (three years old) no led & no key function. Checked the main control board 13.5Vdc volt to UI board correct, replaced UI board, but the problem kept the same, then replaced control board, but still can't fix the issue. Give up, never buy ge anymore. Very bad quality.
What does it mean if the green led is flashing?
I have same question as you. Did you figure it out
What if the green light is blinking?
I think solid green is good. I was wrong. According to manual ever 3 seconds it should blink if there is no cycle. I kept fiddling with mine and finally the board woke up. Also found 2 shards of glass in the drain pump. 😢
I have no led on my board and none of the cycle tests work. Drain pump water valve circ pump heater detergent. None of these turn on.
I get 14 volts with the 1st and fifth pins, not the 2nd and fifth. Also when you unplug the th harness to the door control board wouldn’t the green light come on? Mine doesn’t. I already replaced this board here your working on back in May 2021 . GE put out another model of board which is the one I got but I’ve still
Had nothing but problems with this dishwasher. Should be a class action lawsuit
I replaced this user interface part twice, about $100 each time. This fixed the dishwasher for 2 months before it would crapped out again. So now im $200 into it. Im to the point now, do I junk it and buy a new DW, or pay someone to figure out, what is causing this user interface to keep going bad.
@@TwinTurboRamAir sounds like you're not the only one unfortunately. Try to get GE to send you a new one at no cost. This is ridiculous! They haven't been happy about it, but so far I've gotten them to send repairmen and parts at their cost. Thankfully, because 3 parts into and its quit again 10 days after the last repair.
dc current?
Bingo! Same problem here
I changed the main board and it worked for 1 wash cycle and died again. I unplugged the interface from the main board and it worked for another wash cycle then died again. I’m giving up and buying a new one but not a GE.
Mines been doing this. It won’t even turn on now. Second time it’s dead again
I have the same problem - around the 3 year mark dishwasher stopped turning on. Had to turn on/off the fuse box and it'd buy me a few days until it died again. After a few months of doing this, me flicking the fuse switch no longer works.
I've tried replacing the control board under the unit once and this didn't fix the issue....ordered a user interface board to see if this will help - thanks for the info! Wasn't aware of the LED light giving a clue to what part needs replacing!
Happy to report that replacing the UI Board did the trick. Although there's a bunch of steps, its not complicated to do. Took about 45 minute to do myself and running as we speak :) thanks a ton Matt Payne this did this trick! Everyone told me to just buy another unit as trying to get a handyman in will cost about half the price of just buying a new unit.
Saved me from buying another 500+ dollar dishwasher!
The control board at the bottom of the dishwasher is now blinking green, which means it has communication with the user interface board!
I had the same issues and experiences. These dishwasher displays will shut off on their own. I’m wondering if their is a flaw with that. I have no light on the control board. What does that mean?
@@lesliechow7286 try replacing either the control board or UI board
@@WillTech105 , these dishwashers are lemons. A class action lawsuit needs filed
@@lesliechow7286 I agree seems way too many people are getting these issues around the 3-4 year mark
Well. It’s probably working because the board was working at the time. Unless you verified that you still didn’t have any readout on the interface when you checked the board indicator light and pin voltage, you could be getting a false reading. The light is only going to be flashing when the board is in failure mode. Once the board is working during intermittent random power-on moments, the indicator light will be solid. It’s almost always the power board that is the problem in these situations. But if you were 100% certain it didn’t suddenly start working, then yes, it’s the wiring harness or the UI.
Before you all go this far fown the rabbit hole, please try unplugging the connector from the bottom of the control panel that leads to the upper touch panel. Clean with CRC electronic spray cleaner (both male and femsle ends) and replug it in. This connection leads to intermittent power issues with this model.
mine gives me all 8 and lights are on
I got distracted by all the orbs flying around.
Manufacturers: Why sell an appliance that last 20 years when people will accept one that requires them to buy new parts from us every 3 or 4 years?
Same exact diagnosis on my GE dishwasher at 2 years and 5 months.
Prime example of planned obsolesce by GE.
Either buy an (overpriced) mass produced GE control board or a new dishwasher.
Well I’m back. Now the user interface board is bad it seems.