I want to throw out a big thanks for this and the troubleshooting main board video. I will say that these helped me work on my DDT595SMJ2ES. My Main Board was putting out the 14volts, and the new universal replacement was exactly as described. The only difference was the door removal. Mine just lifted off at around 10-15 degrees and the spring assembly attached to the bottom of the hinges with a nylon clip that had a rope going to the springs. After removing, I discovered that the rope could be held in place in a notch that held enough tension and allowed the nylon clip to be put back on the hinges. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Doing this repair saved me hundreds of dollars.
You are a godsend for people like me who can't afford a technician. My GE is 1 year past it's warranty and now deader than a doornail. Thank you, thank you!
Everytime I see a comment on any RUclips video, I think "well that's someone they know trying to hype their friend's video up". I can honestly say THANK YOU! This is only the third or fourth I've felt a video was worth commenting on, but you have saved me so much time and money. Through this video, I was able to diagnose and fix the problem with my dishwasher. I hope you go places, man. You are really doing a service here and people like me truly appreciate it! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Change the board on the bottom and nothing changed. Then came back and changed this one and I am back in business. Saved me $450 and I got both boards brand new and the ability to fix mine or give family advice down the road. Thanks so much for all the videos on this.
Thank you! I suggest that (in the video) you remind people that they can support you by purchasing the parts through you... your videos are well paced and extremely helpful.
When a random person decides to do a fantastic video to help all of us non-electronic folks. I spent $90 for a new user interface board vs spending $600-$800 on a new washer. Bearded Appliance Repair is a bro to all. Thx for taking the time to make this video and upload it (and your previous one on how to troubleshoot). I'm pushing all the good juju in world your way! Thank you! Edit: Watch out buying from GE. I paid $90 for a new unit and they mailed it to me in a plastic bag with absolutely no padding of any type. The unit came crushed, jumper pins bent, digital readout destroyed, and even paint chipped off one of the IC chips. I will never buy another GE product (Yes, I know Bearded Appliance Repair likes them. And I like him. But him and I will have to agree to disagree on GE. My advice is save yourself the heartache and buy literally ANY other brand of dishwasher)
Thank you. One little tip for everyone is that right after replacing the UI PCB (before reassembling the door), carefully relocate the inner door to the dishwasher, plug the door harness back in, and then plug in the AC power for your dishwasher (being careful not to touch any exposed electricals of course). This way you can make sure that your new UI PCB turns on. This way you won't have to disassemble the door again to get the PCB back out in order to return it if it's a DOA. Another tip is that mine is the GDT655.... model, which has a different hinge/spring setup. No need for an allen wrench, and there's no hole anyways like in the video. There will be a diamond shaped spring retainer if you look at both left/right bottom outer edges of the dishwasher. Use that pick tool he shows in the video to pull the retainer up towards you, then down to hook onto a cable retainer on both sides. This releases spring tension on the door. Msg me if you would like more info. Good luck.
Used all 3 videos you supplied for solving this problem. Each is excellent! 1st time with a multi-meter, both voltages tested exactly as shown. 2nd vid showed how. 3rd- ordered Control and Display board and that fixed the problem perfectly. Thank you for your excellent work.
Thanks, "Bearded One"! If I had not watched your video, I would have had a horrible day trying to keep the tension wheel from retracting all the way! Turns out, my model of dishwasher does NOT have a "hole" where you can jam in a 10 gauge wire or allen wrench. However, there was a small instruction sheet jammed into the case showing how you can pull the diamond-shaped plastic connector off the hook and temporarily attach to a holder on the frame. And, yay! I was off and running with my repairs!!! Thanks again!!!!!!!!
Appreciate your video and the details to replace the user interface board on our dishwasher. The technical information was super helpful. The removal of the door on the GE DDT595SMJ2ES is a bit different. It has a plastic cconnector attached to a cable to a spring. It was easy to disconnect and reconnect without removing the dishwasher. I pulled on the spring just a bit by reaching under the dishwasher allowing me to disconnect the plastic connector from the door hinge. Reconnecting was just as easy by pulling the spring and then attaching the plastic peice to the hinge. I followed your video and set the personality as you referenced and voila - a working, repaired dishwasher. It's a bit unfortunately for service techs like you, but for me, it was both a learning experience and cost savings! Thanks.
Your video and instructions are A+. My model, GDT695SSJ2SS was slightly different but I found my answer in the comments below. My hinge does not have the locator holes but has the diamond shaped plastic clip. I also found the instructions for those on the included paper. With those hinges you do not need to remove the 2 screws in the first step. There are also 4 torx screws, (2 each side), on the door that need to be removed to take apart the door. Again A+
Omg, thank you so much for posting this! I was soooo sure those screws had nothing to do with anything. But they do indeed have everything to do with getting the door apart!
This helped 80%. My model is different so had trouble getting the circuit board out, be sure to order the "User Interface Control Panel" (not the Main Control Panel Board). Mine did not have the two long and two short screws, you just had to pry the cover off. The circuit board was held in place by four small screws but one of the screw plastic holders was broken. Luckily could glue that in place as that screw supported the on/off start button! Also replaced the yellow vent gasket as it split into pieces. Also did not have the personality configuration to address. You can probably do this but be flexible as I had to remove the unit to find the holes on the hinges (I could not see/find the hole on the inside until I found the one on the outside.)
Do you know what model you have? Mine is GDF 610. I'm having the same issue--no screws where I need to take the panel casing off the door. I've given prying it off a go, but don't want to break something. Any tips? Like where to pry it from?
Thank you for making this video. I really like that you showed how to replace the UI Board without taking the dishwasher out of the cabinet. Ours was randomly beeping every so often and occasionally I had to cycle power to get the UI light up. So far this seems to have fixed both problems.
Dead display after initially working intermittently. I followed your instructions and replaced both display and control boards and washing machine is working now. Thanks a lot for helping!!
I'm ordering my User Interface now, sounds like from the Amazon reviews you're sending plenty of people that way :) Really appreciate you taking the time to make these great videos! God Bless 🙏
Thank you my friend Not a fun job but I now have a working dishwasher! FYI-Found removing the spring and rope pulleys much easier than the finding the hole trick. Thanks again
This step-by-step video in absolutely priceless - thanks so much to Bearded Appliance Repair. The commentary on how to disassemble the DW door, and most importantly how to pin the lower hinges open prior to disassembly with a 10-gauge wire or small allen wrenches, and the discussion on setting the custom jumper settings on the replacement user interface circuit board are outstanding. I ordered a $99 user interface from amazon and was able to successfully replace a dead user interface on a GE model GDT545 dishwasher using this excellent video.
This video helped me replace the interface on my ge profile. Part no. WD21X22074. I found a burnt connection on the board, and the new board is the fix. Thanks a bunch, you saved us big bucks
Well explained. I changed mine and it worked perfectly. The best advice I got from the video is the allen key to hold the spring loaded hinges open to replace the door.
I definitely agree with all the other Thank You's below. My GE dishwasher is about 3 years old and intermittently is completely dead until I reset the AC power to it. Unfortunately, the main control board didn't quite match the one in your other video so I couldn't test for the 14V going to the UI board like you showed. I took a chance with replacing the main control board, but after several days, it was dead again. I just replaced the User Interface board last night. I definitely could not have done it without your video. Thank you so much!
Good videos. Thanks. Instead of replacing my UI board, I made a last attempt to fix the board. After taking it out, I used a multi meter to check the switches. They all behaved the same way when I checked the continuity between all the combinations of the four posts of each switch. Since they all tested the same way I assumed the switches were good. None of the tops of the capacitors were bulging, so I assumed there was a good chance they were ok. I didn't want to de-solder them to do more testing. So I figured since the board would need to be replaced, I decided to do one last thing that turned out to fix the board. I had recently learned a DIY technique to re-flow the solder. Professionals use an oven to heat the boards so that any cracked solder joint will flow back together. I saw a video where a guy used a heat gun to do the same thing. So I took out my hot air heating gun, heated both sides of the board, let it cool, and it worked. I heated it for about 4 minutes, but if you want to try this as a last resort, look up a video on how to DIY reflow a circuit board. What I noticed is that the chips get really hot, but the plastic and solder joints don't melt. I had tried this on a car stereo with a hair dryer and it didn't work. I redid it with a heat gun and it worked, so I got both my dishwasher and my daughter's car stereo fixed for only my time. Good luck
Thank you very much for posting this video. I had to replace the silicon light pipe for the control buttons. Awesome job explaining how to do remove and taking apart the door. Can't thank you enough. Keep up the great repair work videos, it is greatly appreciated!😁
This was very helpful! Helpful tip: my door didn’t need that 10awg wire to lock it in. I just simply had to pull off hooks that were on the door. They are attached to a rope and the other end of it is a spring. I also didn’t need to take out the two screws on the bottom of the door.
Thanks again, I didn't get to finish my note, not sure if it made it to you, so I'm sending another. Thank you for helping me save an enormous amount of time and energy in fixing my GE Dishwasher. Cheers, Jay👍
You are the man! I may be calling to order this part. Our control panel randomly goes dead even though we still have power to it/breaker is on. Flip the breaker and it seems to work for a while...
Thank you for your video! This is exactly what I need to complete the repair on my GE dishwasher. The control panel on mine went dead. Replaced the latch and control board but still no joy. Replacing the control panel is my next step and I’ll be sure to follow your video on how to do this step-by-step.
Thanks so much for taking the time to create this video. I wouldn't have been able to do this repair without it, which I was able to complete without incident.
Cannot thank you & commenters enough Good Sir! Wife had been saying couple of weeks she heard unknown chirping in kitchen. I thought it was Clark’s squirrel from Christmas Vacation. 😂 Tonight ge dishwasher died. Went through your steps. Plug unplug etc. darn thing started working! I’m still ordering the interface board. Who knows how long we can get this stuff with the dopes in gubmint???😮
Ours starting chirping then died as well. Dishwasher IS ONLY 2 years old ! Repair and part will be close to $300… half the price of the dishwasher. I am upset!!
great video. One tip, when grounding yourself out to discharge static buildup, it helps to touch something that's actually grounded like the chassis of the washer itself. Touching the detached door panel (which isn't grounded) isn't going to do much of anything.
I appreciate the vid! I have the same exact dishwasher and issue. Just replaced the same part and used your vid to take it apart and put it back together! Dishwasher is working now! Pretty easy fix.
Thanks for the video. I replaced the control panel and it worked for a few weeks, but now I’m having the same problem and it won’t come on at all. I used a multimeter and it’s getting the proper electricity to the dishwasher and panel. There’s even a green light illuminating on the panel. I don’t want to waste anymore more money or time for it to stop working again. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your expertise. It's such a well done video with easy to follow instruction. Thanks to you I was able to follow along and replace my interface control board. Much appreciated!
Great video! thanks so much. Quick question: If the User Interface intermittently turns on sometimes or the dishwasher shuts off mid wash, do you think its still a user interface issue? Mine is doing both
Great Video! Thanks a ton. Where do we find the case with the buttons that goes over the control panel ? My control panel is good just that the buttons came off as the rubber that connects to the case became goey and broke apart.
Thanks so much for these videos. I have to replace the UI board and have a model GDT695SSJ2SS dishwasher. I'm trying to pull off the door (removed both screws at the bottom corners, but I cannot get the door loose. Can lift both sides up about a quarter of an inch, but there is still quite a bit of resistance to my pulling. Can you recommend what I may be doing wrong? Thanks!
Hey bearded. My door is stuck. Any suggestions? I followed the video I got the wire set and my door wont release to be removed. My door is a little different, inside panel is stainless and had 4 torx 2 per side going through the brackets. It also has the 1/4 inch at the bottom corners. I wondering if it would be easier to unload the springs, take the entire door and brakets off ? I can get to the sides of my unit.
Very helpful video, thanks for sharing your experience! The repair was easy with your step-by step. Even so I had one issue: the 3-digit display is completely dark. I bought the replacement interface as an open box so I’m assuming that it was a problem when I got it, but I don’t know for sure. Any suggestions for what I could check to get those digits working?
Thanks for this it was very helpful. My unit (model ddt595ssj2ss ) however has a different way of unhooking the door. Mine didn't have The hinge mechanism is not the same as yours apparently. On each hinge, I had to unhook a plastic tab attached to a nylon string, held in by a hook that were use for the tension and place them in a holder just below made for that purpose. I was still able to remove the door without moving the whole unit out. Everything else was similar.
I changed out the interface (thank you for the stellar tutorial!) & unfortunately still not working but I literally cannot get the door seated back properly. Won’t close now! Feel like there is a lot of play in the hinges. Any tricks?
I have a GE Adora. I replaced the user interface a couple years ago. Recently, the dishwasher lost all power. I cut power to it at the breaker for a few hours and when I turned it back on, the dishwasher works. I also reset the control module via the start/select cycle. Now, the dishwasher will randomly chime. I'm sure the issue persists and tripping the breaker is a short term fix. Would it be safe to assume the control module needs to be replaced?
Both instructional videos very informative for diagnosing thank you. Unfortunately cannot get the UI here in Canada... grrrr. Looks like I'm in the market for a new dishwasher
On my GDT695 the Start button doesn’t work - it doesn’t ‘click’ when you press it. Do you think i might just need to replace the cover with the buttons rather then the control board?
what size screws did you remove from the underside of the door when you began to take the door off? The manual says 9/16 but that appears to be incorrect
Just watched both videos, although my washer is just a week old. Was hoping at the end I would see my problem fixed. My top control looks like yours. Problem…the clock display time is 4 hours off. Is there a way to adjust the clock ? Or am I even supposed to ?
Do you have to put the whole door back on for it to work? I've tried a new board but the jumper pins for my model PDT720ssh7ss does not come in the instructions. I've resorted to trying all combos but nothing works. Board model in wd21x22177 but no jumper pin combo is in instructions. GE Tech was no help as was local repair man.
I’ve been sliding the whole dishwasher out taking off springs etc lol thanks for this tip. Seems like a really common problem I’ve had a few of these repairs
I get these a handful of times a year. Got them wrong too before I found out the 14vdc going up to the control panel test. Have you seen the new hinges on the ones they make today? I'll have to make a video for those sometime soon. It is similar to the way you do it but you do not have to get take the dishwasher out to remove the string from the spring to the hinge. There is a hole at the end where it connects to the hinge and you just lift it up and off with an allen wrench or screwdriver and the hinges and all come off.
Great Video. This saved me from buying a new dishwasher!. so Thank you!. Quick question. i noticed the "Auto" feature time now displays 147 which was 227 before. I check to ensure i have the correct jumper settings and i do. Will the auto time adjust after the first time it washes?
Remove the capacitor right next to the connector on the UI board. 220mf 25v. YES remove it , replacing the bad cap does not fix the issue. For all of those who have a dead UI board try this. It's a smoothing capacitor I'm assuming. No harm removing it at your own risk. For some reason this solved a completely dead board. This dishwasher will still randomly come on but I can live with it. Below is a list of revisions for the board replacement GDF530PGM0CC WD21X24821 Original WD21X26182 (AP6985297) updated WD21X31909 new updated 220mf 25v capacitor You must lo
On some of these models there are four screws on the side of the door you have to remove to get the door apart. Not knowing that I destroyed the door on my GE dishwasher and had to buy a new one, went with a Samsung. Wife’s happy 😊
Wondering about the comment you made about having parts on the truck. My washer is a GDT655SSJ0SS and from searching a few different part sites it looks like the control board is either WD21X24799 or WD21X24901. Each of these have different prices online. Then there is a WD21X24899 and I don't see any reference to it and my units model number but did notice they look identical. For the control boards you purchase and have on the truck for a regular job, are the do the last three numbers matter?
QUESTION: I have the GDT 635. Just the status light is out. Everything else works great. If I replace the UI controller, will that include the light or is that a different component? I've been looking at the close up images of sever pics of the UI controller and I can't see an LED light.
Why does the moisture keep getting into my User interface board? I already replaced it once because the moisture ruined the controls and it's full of moisture again in less than 6 months? why is it not keeping dry inside the control panel? Thank you for your videos!
Do you know why water is getting in there? How do you typically clean it? Is it possibly located in a spot that might have water drippage getting to it like from the counter?
Thx Bro for all details - u saved me good money. I like your 1st video on how to pinpoint issue i.e. if it was ui board or control board. I am going to try this on my dishwasher GDT655J0SS
Do you have 120vac from your ac supply coming from your house, and 13.5ish vdc at your main board on the pins for where the wiring harness that connect the main board to the ui board clips in? You might also check continuity for each wire in that wiring harness. Also, google “{xyz model number} GE technical service guide” for more troubleshooting, that’s a really helpful document. Try to get as new of a year for that guide as you can
I replaced the user interface panel, and the lights came back on and buttons work properly, but now the dishwasher won’t start. Any ideas?? I did pull the whole dishwasher out and tip it over instead of doing the repair from the bottom.
I know it’s 9mo old but for others may be reading, did you fix it? I’m assuming you didn’t set personally set correctly? The 4 blocks you have to reset on the board. Or also door latch sensor?
@@Oneklickmedia I checked the blocks a few times, and they were correct, but I replaced the door latch also, and it still didn’t help, so we just bought a new dishwasher
Did you by chance check continuity on each wire of your wiring harness? That might have been the problem. And did you have at least 120vac coming in from the power wires from your house?
I just bought mine. I hate the loud fan that runs for hours after a cycle is done. I'm using this video so I can do in and remove it! GE will barely and rarely admit the fan exists. I've been on their tech support numerous times, hoping for a software solution.
We replaced the circuit board and it worked a couple of times. Now the machine isn’t recognizing the door is classed and latched when I push the start button. It chimes and the light blinks like the door is still open. Any suggestions?
@@area1320 Haha thanks. I ended up finding that out after looking it over, after trying to separate the halves to no avail... ended up replacing the UI board, it worked 1x, then acted like the door wasnt shut. Had to replace the main board too. Now ((knocking on some wood!!)) its been working good for a few weeks.
Same here and the door slides out of the hinge after string spring is disconnected using your hands, very little tension. I learned about the hinge spring needing disconnect and the torx head screws needing removal form the .PDF Mini-Manual; mine is 31-30792 part number and found it on the web as "31-30792 GE GDT655SGJ0BB Mini Manual.pdf" you have to zoom way in on Adobe reader to read it but its awesome... And the Panel fixed ours !!!
Can you comment on the thermal fuse going out? Is that just something people have used to make videos or can it be possible that a thermal fuse could go out? A thermal fuse isn't expensive but why waste money?
I want to throw out a big thanks for this and the troubleshooting main board video. I will say that these helped me work on my DDT595SMJ2ES. My Main Board was putting out the 14volts, and the new universal replacement was exactly as described. The only difference was the door removal. Mine just lifted off at around 10-15 degrees and the spring assembly attached to the bottom of the hinges with a nylon clip that had a rope going to the springs. After removing, I discovered that the rope could be held in place in a notch that held enough tension and allowed the nylon clip to be put back on the hinges.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Doing this repair saved me hundreds of dollars.
You are a godsend for people like me who can't afford a technician. My GE is 1 year past it's warranty and now deader than a doornail. Thank you, thank you!
Everytime I see a comment on any RUclips video, I think "well that's someone they know trying to hype their friend's video up". I can honestly say THANK YOU! This is only the third or fourth I've felt a video was worth commenting on, but you have saved me so much time and money. Through this video, I was able to diagnose and fix the problem with my dishwasher. I hope you go places, man. You are really doing a service here and people like me truly appreciate it! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Change the board on the bottom and nothing changed. Then came back and changed this one and I am back in business. Saved me $450 and I got both boards brand new and the ability to fix mine or give family advice down the road. Thanks so much for all the videos on this.
Both videos in this series were a life saver. From letting me know to lock the hinges to setting a profile, you made this so easy. Thank you!
glad to help! thanks for the feed back!
Thank you!
I suggest that (in the video) you remind people that they can support you by purchasing the parts through you... your videos are well paced and extremely helpful.
When a random person decides to do a fantastic video to help all of us non-electronic folks.
I spent $90 for a new user interface board vs spending $600-$800 on a new washer.
Bearded Appliance Repair is a bro to all. Thx for taking the time to make this video and upload it (and your previous one on how to troubleshoot).
I'm pushing all the good juju in world your way! Thank you!
Edit: Watch out buying from GE. I paid $90 for a new unit and they mailed it to me in a plastic bag with absolutely no padding of any type. The unit came crushed, jumper pins bent, digital readout destroyed, and even paint chipped off one of the IC chips. I will never buy another GE product (Yes, I know Bearded Appliance Repair likes them. And I like him. But him and I will have to agree to disagree on GE. My advice is save yourself the heartache and buy literally ANY other brand of dishwasher)
Thank you. One little tip for everyone is that right after replacing the UI PCB (before reassembling the door), carefully relocate the inner door to the dishwasher, plug the door harness back in, and then plug in the AC power for your dishwasher (being careful not to touch any exposed electricals of course). This way you can make sure that your new UI PCB turns on. This way you won't have to disassemble the door again to get the PCB back out in order to return it if it's a DOA.
Another tip is that mine is the GDT655.... model, which has a different hinge/spring setup. No need for an allen wrench, and there's no hole anyways like in the video. There will be a diamond shaped spring retainer if you look at both left/right bottom outer edges of the dishwasher. Use that pick tool he shows in the video to pull the retainer up towards you, then down to hook onto a cable retainer on both sides. This releases spring tension on the door. Msg me if you would like more info. Good luck.
Thanks for this explanation...I have the same type of hinge as you and couldn't figure it out at first.
Top tier advice right there!!
Thx for gr8 tip
What do you mean by pick tool?
@@amibrigman5536if you watched this video he used pick tool and mentions how helpful it is. Watch the video. He uses pick tool to remove old UI panel.
I can't thank you enough! This video saved me hundreds of dollars and many weeks of waiting for a repair company to have the time to come out to me.
Used all 3 videos you supplied for solving this problem. Each is excellent! 1st time with a multi-meter, both voltages tested exactly as shown. 2nd vid showed how. 3rd- ordered Control and Display board and that fixed the problem perfectly. Thank you for your excellent work.
Thanks, "Bearded One"! If I had not watched your video, I would have had a horrible day trying to keep the tension wheel from retracting all the way! Turns out, my model of dishwasher does NOT have a "hole" where you can jam in a 10 gauge wire or allen wrench. However, there was a small instruction sheet jammed into the case showing how you can pull the diamond-shaped plastic connector off the hook and temporarily attach to a holder on the frame. And, yay! I was off and running with my repairs!!!
Thanks again!!!!!!!!
Appreciate your video and the details to replace the user interface board on our dishwasher. The technical information was super helpful. The removal of the door on the GE DDT595SMJ2ES is a bit different. It has a plastic cconnector attached to a cable to a spring. It was easy to disconnect and reconnect without removing the dishwasher. I pulled on the spring just a bit by reaching under the dishwasher allowing me to disconnect the plastic connector from the door hinge. Reconnecting was just as easy by pulling the spring and then attaching the plastic peice to the hinge. I followed your video and set the personality as you referenced and voila - a working, repaired dishwasher. It's a bit unfortunately for service techs like you, but for me, it was both a learning experience and cost savings! Thanks.
Your video and instructions are A+. My model, GDT695SSJ2SS was slightly different but I found my answer in the comments below. My hinge does not have the locator holes but has the diamond shaped plastic clip. I also found the instructions for those on the included paper. With those hinges you do not need to remove the 2 screws in the first step. There are also 4 torx screws, (2 each side), on the door that need to be removed to take apart the door. Again A+
Thank you I totally missed the torx screws on mine and was killing myself trying to open the door up XD
How do you get this door off? I have your same model. Do you have instructions?
Omg, thank you so much for posting this! I was soooo sure those screws had nothing to do with anything. But they do indeed have everything to do with getting the door apart!
This helped 80%. My model is different so had trouble getting the circuit board out, be sure to order the "User Interface Control Panel" (not the Main Control Panel Board). Mine did not have the two long and two short screws, you just had to pry the cover off. The circuit board was held in place by four small screws but one of the screw plastic holders was broken. Luckily could glue that in place as that screw supported the on/off start button! Also replaced the yellow vent gasket as it split into pieces. Also did not have the personality configuration to address. You can probably do this but be flexible as I had to remove the unit to find the holes on the hinges (I could not see/find the hole on the inside until I found the one on the outside.)
Do you know what model you have? Mine is GDF 610. I'm having the same issue--no screws where I need to take the panel casing off the door. I've given prying it off a go, but don't want to break something. Any tips? Like where to pry it from?
Thank you for making this video. I really like that you showed how to replace the UI Board without taking the dishwasher out of the cabinet. Ours was randomly beeping every so often and occasionally I had to cycle power to get the UI light up. So far this seems to have fixed both problems.
Dead display after initially working intermittently. I followed your instructions and replaced both display and control boards and washing machine is working now. Thanks a lot for helping!!
I'm a retired 'techie'. Excellent instructions. Thank you
I'm ordering my User Interface now, sounds like from the Amazon reviews you're sending plenty of people that way :) Really appreciate you taking the time to make these great videos! God Bless 🙏
Thank you my friend Not a fun job but I now have a working dishwasher! FYI-Found removing the spring and rope pulleys much easier than the finding the hole trick. Thanks again
This step-by-step video in absolutely priceless - thanks so much to Bearded Appliance Repair. The commentary on how to disassemble the DW door, and most importantly how to pin the lower hinges open prior to disassembly with a 10-gauge wire or small allen wrenches, and the discussion on setting the custom jumper settings on the replacement user interface circuit board are outstanding. I ordered a $99 user interface from amazon and was able to successfully replace a dead user interface on a GE model GDT545 dishwasher using this excellent video.
This video helped me replace the interface on my ge profile. Part no. WD21X22074. I found a burnt connection on the board, and the new board is the fix. Thanks a bunch, you saved us big bucks
Well explained. I changed mine and it worked perfectly. The best advice I got from the video is the allen key to hold the spring loaded hinges open to replace the door.
I definitely agree with all the other Thank You's below. My GE dishwasher is about 3 years old and intermittently is completely dead until I reset the AC power to it. Unfortunately, the main control board didn't quite match the one in your other video so I couldn't test for the 14V going to the UI board like you showed. I took a chance with replacing the main control board, but after several days, it was dead again. I just replaced the User Interface board last night. I definitely could not have done it without your video. Thank you so much!
James I have the same problem, the dishwasher is dead, you unplug it, it resets sometimes in a few minutes or a few hours. What is the problem? Thanks
Thanks for the video. I performed the diagnostics to make sure the control panel was faulty and followed your instructions step by step. Good stuff.
Good videos. Thanks. Instead of replacing my UI board, I made a last attempt to fix the board. After taking it out, I used a multi meter to check the switches. They all behaved the same way when I checked the continuity between all the combinations of the four posts of each switch. Since they all tested the same way I assumed the switches were good. None of the tops of the capacitors were bulging, so I assumed there was a good chance they were ok. I didn't want to de-solder them to do more testing. So I figured since the board would need to be replaced, I decided to do one last thing that turned out to fix the board. I had recently learned a DIY technique to re-flow the solder. Professionals use an oven to heat the boards so that any cracked solder joint will flow back together. I saw a video where a guy used a heat gun to do the same thing. So I took out my hot air heating gun, heated both sides of the board, let it cool, and it worked. I heated it for about 4 minutes, but if you want to try this as a last resort, look up a video on how to DIY reflow a circuit board. What I noticed is that the chips get really hot, but the plastic and solder joints don't melt. I had tried this on a car stereo with a hair dryer and it didn't work. I redid it with a heat gun and it worked, so I got both my dishwasher and my daughter's car stereo fixed for only my time. Good luck
Thank you! The best manual ever! No need to mess with the washer disconnection or moving.
So easy from this educational video. Thank you! saved at least $150 in labor.
Thank you very much for posting this video. I had to replace the silicon light pipe for the control buttons. Awesome job explaining how to do remove and taking apart the door. Can't thank you enough. Keep up the great repair work videos, it is greatly appreciated!😁
Thank you. I could not separate the outer panel. Did not know how to remove that vent cap. You are a life saver.
This was very helpful! Helpful tip: my door didn’t need that 10awg wire to lock it in. I just simply had to pull off hooks that were on the door. They are attached to a rope and the other end of it is a spring. I also didn’t need to take out the two screws on the bottom of the door.
Thanks again, I didn't get to finish my note, not sure if it made it to you, so I'm sending another.
Thank you for helping me save an enormous amount of time and energy in fixing my GE Dishwasher.
Cheers, Jay👍
Best video ever when repairing dishwasher. Thank you so much! Now I know what part to order😊 between the ui and control board.
You are the man! I may be calling to order this part. Our control panel randomly goes dead even though we still have power to it/breaker is on. Flip the breaker and it seems to work for a while...
Thank you for your video! This is exactly what I need to complete the repair on my GE dishwasher. The control panel on mine went dead. Replaced the latch and control board but still no joy. Replacing the control panel is my next step and I’ll be sure to follow your video on how to do this step-by-step.
Thanks so much for taking the time to create this video. I wouldn't have been able to do this repair without it, which I was able to complete without incident.
After watching another video, I wiggled the wired at the UI plug and the DW came back to life. Not permanent, but it did work.
Thank you for all the info. I followed your instructions and it worked perfectly. You saved me from buying a new dishwasher.
Thanks for the video. I replaced my UI Board on my GE dishwasher, and it works now! I appreciate the info.
Thx again, and God bless!
Cannot thank you & commenters enough Good Sir! Wife had been saying couple of weeks she heard unknown chirping in kitchen. I thought it was Clark’s squirrel from Christmas Vacation. 😂
Tonight ge dishwasher died. Went through your steps. Plug unplug etc. darn thing started working! I’m still ordering the interface board. Who knows how long we can get this stuff with the dopes in gubmint???😮
Ours starting chirping then died as well. Dishwasher IS ONLY 2 years old ! Repair and part will be close to $300… half the price of the dishwasher. I am upset!!
great video. One tip, when grounding yourself out to discharge static buildup, it helps to touch something that's actually grounded like the chassis of the washer itself. Touching the detached door panel (which isn't grounded) isn't going to do much of anything.
I appreciate the vid! I have the same exact dishwasher and issue. Just replaced the same part and used your vid to take it apart and put it back together! Dishwasher is working now! Pretty easy fix.
Great tutorial! Easy to follow, was able to fix my dishwasher with a $100 part!
Thanks for the video. I replaced the control panel and it worked for a few weeks, but now I’m having the same problem and it won’t come on at all. I used a multimeter and it’s getting the proper electricity to the dishwasher and panel. There’s even a green light illuminating on the panel. I don’t want to waste anymore more money or time for it to stop working again. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Wow this video was amazing. Thanks so much for the in-depth process. 10/10
Excellent instructions, was having trouble getting the door apart and this made it happen.
Your video was perfect. I watched it many times while doing my install. Saved me a fortune doing it myself. Keep up the good work.
Found the harness where it plugs into UI loose. Mine works now. Saved me a $200 part…new dirt bike parts for me now!!!
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your expertise. It's such a well done video with easy to follow instruction. Thanks to you I was able to follow along and replace my interface control board. Much appreciated!
Great video! thanks so much. Quick question: If the User Interface intermittently turns on sometimes or the dishwasher shuts off mid wash, do you think its still a user interface issue? Mine is doing both
Ty. very uncomplicated. May your beard grow long and healthy
This was awesome and extremely helpful for me to fix my dishwasher. Thank you for posting it!
Thanks Bearded One! My machine had a whole lot more going on to get it apart but I made it through it and she’s working again! ☮️
Great Video! Thanks a ton. Where do we find the case with the buttons that goes over the control panel ? My control panel is good just that the buttons came off as the rubber that connects to the case became goey and broke apart.
Great video thanks. I’ll do control boards no problem but if the darn door needs to come off screw that I’m replacing the entire machines f that
Thanks so much for these videos. I have to replace the UI board and have a model GDT695SSJ2SS dishwasher. I'm trying to pull off the door (removed both screws at the bottom corners, but I cannot get the door loose. Can lift both sides up about a quarter of an inch, but there is still quite a bit of resistance to my pulling. Can you recommend what I may be doing wrong? Thanks!
Hey bearded. My door is stuck. Any suggestions? I followed the video I got the wire set and my door wont release to be removed. My door is a little different, inside panel is stainless and had 4 torx 2 per side going through the brackets. It also has the 1/4 inch at the bottom corners. I wondering if it would be easier to unload the springs, take the entire door and brakets off ? I can get to the sides of my unit.
This video was so incredibly useful and helped my repair be successful.
I really appreciate your time and thank you for making this educational learning video.
Very helpful video, thanks for sharing your experience! The repair was easy with your step-by step. Even so I had one issue: the 3-digit display is completely dark. I bought the replacement interface as an open box so I’m assuming that it was a problem when I got it, but I don’t know for sure. Any suggestions for what I could check to get those digits working?
Thanks for this it was very helpful. My unit (model ddt595ssj2ss ) however has a different way of unhooking the door. Mine didn't have The hinge mechanism is not the same as yours apparently. On each hinge, I had to unhook a plastic tab attached to a nylon string, held in by a hook that were use for the tension and place them in a holder just below made for that purpose. I was still able to remove the door without moving the whole unit out. Everything else was similar.
Fixed mine! Appreciate your help with troubleshooting!!!
I changed out the interface (thank you for the stellar tutorial!) & unfortunately still not working but I literally cannot get the door seated back properly. Won’t close now! Feel like there is a lot of play in the hinges. Any tricks?
Can you do a service van tour on all you tools and parts???? Thanks
Thank you very much for your helpful videos. It gave me the confidence and knowledge to fix my dishwasher. It's working now. Yay!
I have a GE Adora. I replaced the user interface a couple years ago. Recently, the dishwasher lost all power. I cut power to it at the breaker for a few hours and when I turned it back on, the dishwasher works. I also reset the control module via the start/select cycle. Now, the dishwasher will randomly chime. I'm sure the issue persists and tripping the breaker is a short term fix. Would it be safe to assume the control module needs to be replaced?
Both instructional videos very informative for diagnosing thank you. Unfortunately cannot get the UI here in Canada... grrrr. Looks like I'm in the market for a new dishwasher
On my GDT695 the Start button doesn’t work - it doesn’t ‘click’ when you press it. Do you think i might just need to replace the cover with the buttons rather then the control board?
what size screws did you remove from the underside of the door when you began to take the door off? The manual says 9/16 but that appears to be incorrect
Just watched both videos, although my washer is just a week old. Was hoping at the end I would see my problem fixed. My top control looks like yours. Problem…the clock display time is 4 hours off. Is there a way to adjust the clock ? Or am I even supposed to ?
Video usefulness level: GOD!
JUst ordered my UI. Hope it works.
Do you have to put the whole door back on for it to work? I've tried a new board but the jumper pins for my model PDT720ssh7ss does not come in the instructions. I've resorted to trying all combos but nothing works. Board model in wd21x22177 but no jumper pin combo is in instructions. GE Tech was no help as was local repair man.
I’ve been sliding the whole dishwasher out taking off springs etc lol thanks for this tip. Seems like a really common problem I’ve had a few of these repairs
I get these a handful of times a year. Got them wrong too before I found out the 14vdc going up to the control panel test. Have you seen the new hinges on the ones they make today? I'll have to make a video for those sometime soon. It is similar to the way you do it but you do not have to get take the dishwasher out to remove the string from the spring to the hinge. There is a hole at the end where it connects to the hinge and you just lift it up and off with an allen wrench or screwdriver and the hinges and all come off.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair I do have that string/spring hinge. I did find 10v on the power board, so trying to replace the UI.
Great Video. This saved me from buying a new dishwasher!. so Thank you!. Quick question. i noticed the "Auto" feature time now displays 147 which was 227 before. I check to ensure i have the correct jumper settings and i do. Will the auto time adjust after the first time it washes?
Thanks man. Your thorough videos helped me with my issue. Great job
Remove the capacitor right next to the connector on the UI board. 220mf 25v.
YES remove it , replacing the bad cap does not fix the issue. For all of those who have a dead UI board try this. It's a smoothing capacitor I'm assuming. No harm removing it at your own risk. For some reason this solved a completely dead board. This dishwasher will still randomly come on but I can live with it. Below is a list of revisions for the board replacement GDF530PGM0CC
WD21X24821 Original
WD21X26182 (AP6985297) updated
WD21X31909 new updated
220mf 25v capacitor
You must lo
On some of these models there are four screws on the side of the door you have to remove to get the door apart. Not knowing that I destroyed the door on my GE dishwasher and had to buy a new one, went with a Samsung. Wife’s happy 😊
Thanks so much! Saved me hundreds of dollars 👍🏼
Wondering about the comment you made about having parts on the truck. My washer is a GDT655SSJ0SS and from searching a few different part sites it looks like the control board is either WD21X24799 or WD21X24901. Each of these have different prices online. Then there is a WD21X24899 and I don't see any reference to it and my units model number but did notice they look identical. For the control boards you purchase and have on the truck for a regular job, are the do the last three numbers matter?
This sound like asmr so relaxing
QUESTION: I have the GDT 635. Just the status light is out. Everything else works great. If I replace the UI controller, will that include the light or is that a different component? I've been looking at the close up images of sever pics of the UI controller and I can't see an LED light.
Why does the moisture keep getting into my User interface board? I already replaced it once because the moisture ruined the controls and it's full of moisture again in less than 6 months? why is it not keeping dry inside the control panel? Thank you for your videos!
Do you know why water is getting in there? How do you typically clean it? Is it possibly located in a spot that might have water drippage getting to it like from the counter?
Great video. Problem solved. Thanks 🙏🏻
Thanks! Appreciate the good content.
What do you do when you have 14 volts between pin 2 & 5 on control board and you replace the UI control panel and the washer still doesnt work?
I have a GE GDT655SBL4TS will is part fit my dishwasher? and do you have a link to where I can get it please? Thank you
Thanks for this! Easy to replace, and saved me $$$!
Thx Bro for all details - u saved me good money.
I like your 1st video on how to pinpoint issue i.e. if it was ui board or control board.
I am going to try this on my dishwasher GDT655J0SS
Thank you, very helpful. I got everything installed and some buttons and the display aren’t working. Any ideas?
Do you have 120vac from your ac supply coming from your house, and 13.5ish vdc at your main board on the pins for where the wiring harness that connect the main board to the ui board clips in? You might also check continuity for each wire in that wiring harness. Also, google “{xyz model number} GE technical service guide” for more troubleshooting, that’s a really helpful document. Try to get as new of a year for that guide as you can
I replaced the user interface panel, and the lights came back on and buttons work properly, but now the dishwasher won’t start. Any ideas?? I did pull the whole dishwasher out and tip it over instead of doing the repair from the bottom.
I know it’s 9mo old but for others may be reading, did you fix it? I’m assuming you didn’t set personally set correctly? The 4 blocks you have to reset on the board. Or also door latch sensor?
@@Oneklickmedia I checked the blocks a few times, and they were correct, but I replaced the door latch also, and it still didn’t help, so we just bought a new dishwasher
Did you by chance check continuity on each wire of your wiring harness? That might have been the problem. And did you have at least 120vac coming in from the power wires from your house?
We have 3 GE appliances. The microwave died. The dishwasher died, and the fridge had a warranty call. no more for us
Is every hinge setup the same or am I just crazy? I don’t have anywhere to put this #10 wire.
This GE product is absolute junk. Never again GE.
Yep already changed 2 other parts on this crap and jts only 3 years old
@@davidfernandez876 Same thing with mine. It is both unbelievable and a shame.
I just bought mine. I hate the loud fan that runs for hours after a cycle is done. I'm using this video so I can do in and remove it! GE will barely and rarely admit the fan exists. I've been on their tech support numerous times, hoping for a software solution.
Funny to hear it’s been the same with others. We just moved in and our GE dishwasher just randomly won’t turn on now. Only 2 years old
Agreed. This particular model SUCKS! no door screws. You have to take the whole door off!
Great video now I can fix mine. Thanks😊
Great Video Very Informative ! THANKS!
We replaced the circuit board and it worked a couple of times. Now the machine isn’t recognizing the door is classed and latched when I push the start button. It chimes and the light blinks like the door is still open. Any suggestions?
I had 17 volts on the power board. Does that still mean I need to replace the user interface. Great video's too. Thanks.
Mine would sometimes come back on after unplugging the harness to the circuit board and plugging it back in . Is that still a user interface issue ?
What is the part number of the replacement board? Thanks!
My door shell won’t separate like yours did… I have the stainless tub. I’ve tried EVERYthing, any tips??
Torx on the side of the tub
@@area1320 Haha thanks. I ended up finding that out after looking it over, after trying to separate the halves to no avail... ended up replacing the UI board, it worked 1x, then acted like the door wasnt shut. Had to replace the main board too. Now ((knocking on some wood!!)) its been working good for a few weeks.
Yeah i did both boards. Mine works great again.
Same here and the door slides out of the hinge after string spring is disconnected using your hands, very little tension. I learned about the hinge spring needing disconnect and the torx head screws needing removal form the .PDF Mini-Manual; mine is 31-30792 part number and found it on the web as "31-30792 GE GDT655SGJ0BB Mini Manual.pdf" you have to zoom way in on Adobe reader to read it but its awesome... And the Panel fixed ours !!!
Can you comment on the thermal fuse going out? Is that just something people have used to make videos or can it be possible that a thermal fuse could go out? A thermal fuse isn't expensive but why waste money?
i have 14 volts. but my green LED is flickering. Does that sound like it's the U.I. that needs to be replaced?