For anyone doing this job, please read the video description. One thing I forgot to mention in the video was the fuel rail to cylinder head bolts. They are a a pain to remove. They are button head torx bolts, and you absolutely do not want to strip them. Same with the turbo outlet Allen head button head bolts. This is where experience, and mechanical aptitude come into play.
@@fersaccon I have some details on that in the video description. But basically a small torx bit driver with a long 1/4” wrench. Take your time and be careful not to strip out the bolt. It’s tricky, no doubt, and will test your patience. I always replace those bolts with regular hex head bolts. Thread size is M8-1.25 by maybe 20-25mm long or so.
I have a 2016 ram 1500 that had the emmissions recall VB1 done at 88K miles, bought truck from ram dealer right after they took it in trade and did the recall on the truck, guy most likely traded in because of no power, EGR completely clogged..... it's been in the shop numerous times for all kinds of sensors that went bad ...they were all covered under the recall warranty... now have 127,300 on truck for milage (truck is still covered under recall warranty ( 48 months or 48K miles from time recall was done) and there is a coolant leak at the rear of the engine. Brought truck to nearest ram dealer... Triano in Colchester, CT. they gave me a 3200$ estimate for a water pump and a 3 way valve that were supposedly both leaking.. soooo. I brought it to my local mechanic (in business for 25 years and works on diesels) bud, your water pump isnt leaking... and I see a small leak from overflow that has a crack... Sooo... Going to bring it back to Secor in Groton CT where I bought it... but 45 miles away. They have a very good diesel mechanic. MY QUESTION ???? Has the oring on the end of the water pump... at the rear of the water pump ( can only buy an OEM oring) ever been mistaken for the leak on the turbo coolant hose that has the two metal fittings with the rubber hose in the middle ?????? would the water pump Oring leak forward or towards the rear of the engine ... and this is while sitting still ??? thanks from Discouraged, pissed off, Ecodiesel owner. but not for long...
Sounds like you’ve been through hell over the truck. Your not alone. If that O-ring at the very rear of the water pump fails, it will flow back over the transmission. Not the front. And that O-ring practically never fails, but it has to be replaced when the water is. But the turbo coolant line is guaranteed to fail at some point.
Thanks for the quick reply... I'm going to have a "competent mechanic at the dealer in Groton CT. look at the truck... if the water pump seal failed, I have to pay for the repair... it will cost a small fortune for someone on Social Security...another ? ... would the water pump have to be taken out to do the EgR VB1 recall?... they replaced a shit ton of parts, EGR, intake, exhaust system, some fuel rails, exhuast cats, a bunch of sensors, coolant ect., ect. .... I'll have to see if the water pump seal was replaced on the invoice, because the dealer would replace under warranty "if they had to replace it when they did the vb1 recall... touchy touchy situation.. thanks for your valuable info. Preston.@@tadsworkshop
Well...went to original dealer I bought truck...have an appt to have truck looked at on Jan 3rd ...they have a very competent diesel mechanic. Annndð...the truck is still under the amended 48 month 48000 mile from date of vb1 emissions recall...if it's the tubo cooling hose leaking it's covered...if it's the O ring at the water pump I think I have to pay for the repair...RAM should just buy back these trucks and crush them.
@@prestonsymonds8005 I see. I hope things turn out in your favor. Just know that the dealer doesn’t know what’s going on half the time either. If it’s under warranty, great. If not, find a mechanic you can trust. If you were closer I’d be helping you out.
Hey, thanks for sharing your video. Very informative. I am gearing up to do this job soon as have a leak somewhere, (only under load). After some research maybe this could be it. I think I want to tackle it before it fully ruptures as it appears to have happened in this video. Also a good chance to clean the manifold (I might buy the banks replacement). It seems like with a lot of patience a novice could do this job. I am trying to put together a list of the specialty tools/supplies so I have everything before I get started. So far I am tracking the dorman replacement line, ball end allen key and I have read about a specialty torx tool to remove the fuel rail. Is there anything else you have found helpful ? Thanks in advance.
Hey Matt, yes a novice with patience and good sense can handle this job. Allow yourself as much time as you can spare. To add to your list: 1) performance tools W30978 on amazon for those torx bits. I’ve also down the job with a 1/4” wrench and trimmed down 1/4” drive T40 bits! Would recommend the specialty tool though. 2) consider saving yourself the aggravation and just buy a new mopar manifold. All things considered, I still can’t justify the banks, unless your building a purpose built race car like what was done for pikes peak. 3) consider buying a radiator pressure tester and pressurize the cooling system to see where that leak is coming from. Very useful when you have the manifold off, and you can verify 100% where it is coming from. 3) Feel free to post a comment here if you have any trouble. I’ll help as best I can.
Thanks a lot! Good to know. I will likely take your advice as its about half the price for the mopar intake and just do the mod from your other video. Would you recommend changing the water pump out of an abundance of caution since its all apart? its a 2015 with 137K and we haul a lot in the summer. I'm trying to get another 7- 10 years out of it. @@tadsworkshop
Hello from the UK - mine hasn’t gone yet but no doubt it will - mine has the euro 6 adblue/def solution. Does anyone know If there is more than one pipe to replace or just this one that causes problems
@@CaptainMavHi Mate, The one this guy is doing is the Front coolent hose for Turbo and there another rubber Coolent hose that fits right behind the turbo , you better replace that hose too.. On my car it started to leak at about 115,000 kms. Best of Luck.
Just curious. I never see anyone walnut blasting the intake runners when the intake is replaced. Have you ever considered buying a unit? I believe they are around $400.
To do it in the vehicle would be an absolute mess in my opinion. If the cylinder heads were removed for any reason, I could justify doing it then. But to do it in the vehicle…..even if using walnut media, I don’t think this is practical. Certainly nothing I would ever offer to do on someone else’s vehicle. And even in my own vehicle, until the day the cylinder heads are removed, I would never bother with blasting. Careful, manual, mechanical removal, maybe.
No I do not drew, but I will say the Dorman replacement line comes with new banjo bolts. I’ve since changed my approach for replacing this leak, as now I like to replace that rubber line by itself, as undoing the turbocharger banjo bolt is a pain.
That bottom banjo bolt is kicking my butt , got the old one out just fine, any tips on installing the new one. Keep dropping the second washer can't seem to get the threads started 🤔🤔
It’s a royal pain for sure. I don’t remember exactly what I had to do…but I remember struggling with the washers, trying not to drop them and lose them. I remember setting the washer on the turbo, guiding it into place with a pick, and carefully putting the hose and banjo bolt over it while trying my best not to knock the bottom washer down. Might’ve used grease or something to help it stay. My approach towards this job has changed since then; now I just replace the hose itself with a high quality piece and clamps, and avoid the turbo banjo bolt, but that doesn’t help you now. Just keep at it. If you feel the old banjo bolt might be better, use it. Be careful tightening the bolt after. Use good common sense; you certainly don’t want to break it.
Got one of these in the shop right now for a coolant leak. Coolant leaking down both sides of the bell housing and looks like it'll be this exact issue as I've seen a couple different vids/posts about it. Is there any way to verify this is the leak before tearing down and pulling the intake? I tried to get a mirror between the intake and the firewall but I couldn't see that hose.
Not really. The swirl valve electrical motor sits under that intake as well, and it is almost impossible to put any kind of borescope in there to see it directly. If it’s dripping down the bellhousing, from the turbo area, I would count on that turbo coolant hose leaking.
@@biggestbog there ya go. Be ready for those fuel rail bolts as well - you’ll need a low profile torx bit tool because they are so tight against the intake manifold. You might be able to get by with a 1/4” drive bit and a 1/4” wrench. I forgot what size torx head it is.
Intake manifold was never replaced, or removed for cleaning. The soot there existed before the delete. When the coolant line burst, that was the opportune time to replace the manifold.
@@basilistitieh5862 exactly, absolutely no more soot clogging up the intake. On most trucks, there will still be residual soot in the intake runners of the cylinder heads. It takes a lot of effort to clean than up, and is a tough job, but if you take off the intake manifold, that’s the time to do it.
I torqued it using my best judgement and experience. Same as a banjo bolt on a caliper. Too tight, and you’ll have the nightmarish scenario of it breaking. Better to error on the loose side. So I do not know torque specs on it. I do it by feel.
@@tadsworkshop thanks, that's what i usually do too, a buddy of mine was telling me to figure out all of the specs before getting started. great video, thanks for all the help
@@morenoja22 appreciate the kind words. My approach has changed since this video; I now just replace the hose by itself using some high pressure/temp silicone hose and quality clamps. But either way works.
@@lucastigou I feel your pain. You have to make damn sure that is seated perfectly, you don’t want to strip out that hex. If you feel like you may have partially stripped out the hex, stop using the ball end and find another means of putting a regular straight Allen key into that bolt. Tap that Allen driver into the bolt to make sure it is seated 100%.
@@tadsworkshopyou’re an awesome guy that was exceptional help you gave him. I just bought a 2015 eco diesel with 89k on it. The price was too good to pass up it was the only truck on the lot with a crew cab, decent trim level and under 100k miles. I figured ram makes nice diesel trucks why would this be any different lol I’m caught in a pickle now. Do I get rid of it? Or do I prepare to go to war with it in the not so distant future?
@tadsworkshop im doing this work rn and how do you remove the banjo bolt thats underneath the oil line? Some kind of low profile socket? And could you include link on where to get this tool?
That banjo bolt is tough to get to, but not impossible. Unbolt that oil line, and gently bend it to the side. You won’t be able to move it much, but that little amount does help. I actually cut down a spare socket I had in that size (I believe it was 19mm?). I cut down the socket with an angle grinder and cut off wheel to make a custom shallow socket. Be careful not to get dirt into the oil inlet of the turbo. Be mindful of the copper washers too. Don’t lose or drop them. It’s tricky, and will test your patience.
@@alenrodarte7505 it’s a pain for sure. It gets easier with time. Thankfully after you get that turbo line replaced, you really won’t have a need to go back in there again.
@@alenrodarte7505 not a big deal, you’ve got air in the cooling system. There is a small air bleeder on the thermostat housing/outlet, use that to your advantage. Keep topping off your coolant in the coolant reservoir. Drive it around to try and work out the air in the lines. If it persists, try disconnecting a heater hose at the heater core under the hood, but this shouldn’t be necessary.
It looks as though you arent replacing the disconnected fuel tubes. I read elsewhere they are single use, im assuming because its a compression fit? Have you had any issues reusing existing tubes?
I also reused the fuel tubes on my 2014 Ecodiesel. Had to replace this same small hose under the manifold. This job takes a bit of time. Crazy design to have a hose under the manifold like that.
I typically allow myself 2 to 3 hours on this job. But this depends on your skill level and ability. This could also take someone three days to finish if a complication comes up, such as the socket cap bolt head stripping on the compressor outlet if someone wasn’t being mindful of it.
@@tadsworkshop I have no external leaks I can’t find on my 2015 . Loosing coolant just trying to narrow it down . Probably the egr cooler wasn’t much soot just a wet soot what there was of it thanks
Like anything else today, no thought or care given to serviceability. As long as it will last the warranty period, nothing else matters. The real truth is, automotive manufacturing is all for profit, not for the benefit of the consumer.
![Tee Grizzley - Robbery 8 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34_vkNV6wrU/mqdefault.jpg)
For anyone doing this job, please read the video description. One thing I forgot to mention in the video was the fuel rail to cylinder head bolts. They are a a pain to remove. They are button head torx bolts, and you absolutely do not want to strip them. Same with the turbo outlet Allen head button head bolts. This is where experience, and mechanical aptitude come into play.
Which tool did you use to remove those fuel line torx bolts? I can't get anything to fit in there, it's so tight with the intake on.
@@fersaccon I have some details on that in the video description. But basically a small torx bit driver with a long 1/4” wrench. Take your time and be careful not to strip out the bolt. It’s tricky, no doubt, and will test your patience. I always replace those bolts with regular hex head bolts. Thread size is M8-1.25 by maybe 20-25mm long or so.
@@tadsworkshopthanks for the quick reply ❤. I forgot to check the video description, my bad. Cheers!
@@fersaccon no worries and best of luck with the repair!
I have a 2016 ram 1500 that had the emmissions recall VB1 done at 88K miles, bought truck from ram dealer right after they took it in trade and did the recall on the truck, guy most likely traded in because of no power, EGR completely clogged..... it's been in the shop numerous times for all kinds of sensors that went bad ...they were all covered under the recall warranty... now have 127,300 on truck for milage (truck is still covered under recall warranty ( 48 months or 48K miles from time recall was done) and there is a coolant leak at the rear of the engine. Brought truck to nearest ram dealer... Triano in Colchester, CT. they gave me a 3200$ estimate for a water pump and a 3 way valve that were supposedly both leaking.. soooo. I brought it to my local mechanic (in business for 25 years and works on diesels) bud, your water pump isnt leaking... and I see a small leak from overflow that has a crack... Sooo... Going to bring it back to Secor in Groton CT where I bought it... but 45 miles away. They have a very good diesel mechanic. MY QUESTION ???? Has the oring on the end of the water pump... at the rear of the water pump ( can only buy an OEM oring) ever been mistaken for the leak on the turbo coolant hose that has the two metal fittings with the rubber hose in the middle ?????? would the water pump Oring leak forward or towards the rear of the engine ... and this is while sitting still ??? thanks from Discouraged, pissed off, Ecodiesel owner. but not for long...
Sounds like you’ve been through hell over the truck. Your not alone. If that O-ring at the very rear of the water pump fails, it will flow back over the transmission. Not the front. And that O-ring practically never fails, but it has to be replaced when the water is. But the turbo coolant line is guaranteed to fail at some point.
Thanks for the quick reply... I'm going to have a "competent mechanic at the dealer in
Groton CT. look at the truck... if the water pump seal failed, I have to pay for the repair... it will cost a small fortune for someone on Social Security...another ? ... would the water pump have to be taken out to do the EgR VB1 recall?... they replaced a shit ton of parts, EGR, intake, exhaust system, some fuel rails, exhuast cats, a bunch of sensors, coolant ect., ect. .... I'll have to see if the water pump seal was replaced on the invoice, because the dealer would replace under warranty "if they had to replace it when they did the vb1 recall... touchy touchy situation.. thanks for your valuable info. Preston.@@tadsworkshop
Well...went to original dealer I bought truck...have an appt to have truck looked at on Jan 3rd ...they have a very competent diesel mechanic. Annndð...the truck is still under the amended 48 month 48000 mile from date of vb1 emissions recall...if it's the tubo cooling hose leaking it's covered...if it's the O ring at the water pump I think I have to pay for the repair...RAM should just buy back these trucks and crush them.
@@prestonsymonds8005 I see. I hope things turn out in your favor. Just know that the dealer doesn’t know what’s going on half the time either. If it’s under warranty, great. If not, find a mechanic you can trust. If you were closer I’d be helping you out.
Hey, thanks for sharing your video. Very informative. I am gearing up to do this job soon as have a leak somewhere, (only under load). After some research maybe this could be it. I think I want to tackle it before it fully ruptures as it appears to have happened in this video. Also a good chance to clean the manifold (I might buy the banks replacement).
It seems like with a lot of patience a novice could do this job. I am trying to put together a list of the specialty tools/supplies so I have everything before I get started. So far I am tracking the dorman replacement line, ball end allen key and I have read about a specialty torx tool to remove the fuel rail. Is there anything else you have found helpful ? Thanks in advance.
Hey Matt, yes a novice with patience and good sense can handle this job. Allow yourself as much time as you can spare. To add to your list:
1) performance tools W30978 on amazon for those torx bits. I’ve also down the job with a 1/4” wrench and trimmed down 1/4” drive T40 bits! Would recommend the specialty tool though.
2) consider saving yourself the aggravation and just buy a new mopar manifold. All things considered, I still can’t justify the banks, unless your building a purpose built race car like what was done for pikes peak.
3) consider buying a radiator pressure tester and pressurize the cooling system to see where that leak is coming from. Very useful when you have the manifold off, and you can verify 100% where it is coming from.
3) Feel free to post a comment here if you have any trouble. I’ll help as best I can.
Thanks a lot! Good to know. I will likely take your advice as its about half the price for the mopar intake and just do the mod from your other video. Would you recommend changing the water pump out of an abundance of caution since its all apart? its a 2015 with 137K and we haul a lot in the summer. I'm trying to get another 7- 10 years out of it. @@tadsworkshop
Hello from the UK - mine hasn’t gone yet but no doubt it will - mine has the euro 6 adblue/def solution. Does anyone know
If there is more than one pipe to replace or just this one that causes problems
@@CaptainMavHi Mate, The one this guy is doing is the Front coolent hose for Turbo and there another rubber Coolent hose that fits right behind the turbo , you better replace that hose too.. On my car it started to leak at about 115,000 kms. Best of Luck.
Heat shield was the easiest thing on this job so far lol just cut it screws don't break loose
Just curious. I never see anyone walnut blasting the intake runners when the intake is replaced. Have you ever considered buying a unit? I believe they are around $400.
To do it in the vehicle would be an absolute mess in my opinion. If the cylinder heads were removed for any reason, I could justify doing it then. But to do it in the vehicle…..even if using walnut media, I don’t think this is practical. Certainly nothing I would ever offer to do on someone else’s vehicle. And even in my own vehicle, until the day the cylinder heads are removed, I would never bother with blasting. Careful, manual, mechanical removal, maybe.
Do you have a part number for the banjo bolts, i can find the one for the turbo but not the cylinder head. Much appreciated
No I do not drew, but I will say the Dorman replacement line comes with new banjo bolts. I’ve since changed my approach for replacing this leak, as now I like to replace that rubber line by itself, as undoing the turbocharger banjo bolt is a pain.
To remove the turbo you need to remove anything else ? Only the intake manifold??
@@Guaiyaru you did not watch the video. You have to remove the transmission, or lift the truck cab from the frame.
That bottom banjo bolt is kicking my butt , got the old one out just fine, any tips on installing the new one. Keep dropping the second washer can't seem to get the threads started 🤔🤔
It’s a royal pain for sure. I don’t remember exactly what I had to do…but I remember struggling with the washers, trying not to drop them and lose them. I remember setting the washer on the turbo, guiding it into place with a pick, and carefully putting the hose and banjo bolt over it while trying my best not to knock the bottom washer down. Might’ve used grease or something to help it stay. My approach towards this job has changed since then; now I just replace the hose itself with a high quality piece and clamps, and avoid the turbo banjo bolt, but that doesn’t help you now. Just keep at it. If you feel the old banjo bolt might be better, use it. Be careful tightening the bolt after. Use good common sense; you certainly don’t want to break it.
Thanks again
use your old bolt, for me the threads were not the same
Got one of these in the shop right now for a coolant leak. Coolant leaking down both sides of the bell housing and looks like it'll be this exact issue as I've seen a couple different vids/posts about it. Is there any way to verify this is the leak before tearing down and pulling the intake? I tried to get a mirror between the intake and the firewall but I couldn't see that hose.
Not really. The swirl valve electrical motor sits under that intake as well, and it is almost impossible to put any kind of borescope in there to see it directly. If it’s dripping down the bellhousing, from the turbo area, I would count on that turbo coolant hose leaking.
@@tadsworkshop That's what I figured. Thanks for the response, gonna recommend teardown tomorrow lol
@@biggestbog there ya go. Be ready for those fuel rail bolts as well - you’ll need a low profile torx bit tool because they are so tight against the intake manifold. You might be able to get by with a 1/4” drive bit and a 1/4” wrench. I forgot what size torx head it is.
that is it, the improved replacement from Dorman is steel braid, factory is just a rubber hose
you said the truck is deleted, so why the old intake filled with soot?
Intake manifold was never replaced, or removed for cleaning. The soot there existed before the delete. When the coolant line burst, that was the opportune time to replace the manifold.
@@tadsworkshop thanks for explaining,. so once deleted it should stay clean?
@@basilistitieh5862 exactly, absolutely no more soot clogging up the intake. On most trucks, there will still be residual soot in the intake runners of the cylinder heads. It takes a lot of effort to clean than up, and is a tough job, but if you take off the intake manifold, that’s the time to do it.
@@tadsworkshop Thank you for taking the time to explain! looking at a delete now and gotta do some clean up
what did you torque the banjo bolt to, the one on the turbo? the one on the head is 26 l
bs right?
I torqued it using my best judgement and experience. Same as a banjo bolt on a caliper. Too tight, and you’ll have the nightmarish scenario of it breaking. Better to error on the loose side. So I do not know torque specs on it. I do it by feel.
@@tadsworkshop thanks, that's what i usually do too, a buddy of mine was telling me to figure out all of the specs before getting started. great video, thanks for all the help
@@morenoja22 appreciate the kind words. My approach has changed since this video; I now just replace the hose by itself using some high pressure/temp silicone hose and quality clamps. But either way works.
Doing the job rn. The f hex bolt is driving me nuts. It doesn’t come off! In case it gets screwed, what would you suggest to do to remove it?
Lucas what hex bolt are you taking about? Are you talking about the torx bolt for the fuel rail?
@@tadsworkshop the one we can remove with the hex ball wrench. Over the turbine
@@lucastigou I feel your pain. You have to make damn sure that is seated perfectly, you don’t want to strip out that hex. If you feel like you may have partially stripped out the hex, stop using the ball end and find another means of putting a regular straight Allen key into that bolt. Tap that Allen driver into the bolt to make sure it is seated 100%.
@@lucastigouwe’re you able to get that bolt out? Sounds like the hex in the socket cap bolt was stripping out?
@@tadsworkshopyou’re an awesome guy that was exceptional help you gave him. I just bought a 2015 eco diesel with 89k on it. The price was too good to pass up it was the only truck on the lot with a crew cab, decent trim level and under 100k miles. I figured ram makes nice diesel trucks why would this be any different lol I’m caught in a pickle now. Do I get rid of it? Or do I prepare to go to war with it in the not so distant future?
@tadsworkshop im doing this work rn and how do you remove the banjo bolt thats underneath the oil line? Some kind of low profile socket? And could you include link on where to get this tool?
That banjo bolt is tough to get to, but not impossible. Unbolt that oil line, and gently bend it to the side. You won’t be able to move it much, but that little amount does help. I actually cut down a spare socket I had in that size (I believe it was 19mm?). I cut down the socket with an angle grinder and cut off wheel to make a custom shallow socket. Be careful not to get dirt into the oil inlet of the turbo. Be mindful of the copper washers too. Don’t lose or drop them. It’s tricky, and will test your patience.
Thanks man, this job is a mother trucker dude!!
@@alenrodarte7505 it’s a pain for sure. It gets easier with time. Thankfully after you get that turbo line replaced, you really won’t have a need to go back in there again.
@tadsworkshop After this fix my heater in cab stopped working, it blows cold, thermostat works and water pump works just cant figure out what else
@@alenrodarte7505 not a big deal, you’ve got air in the cooling system. There is a small air bleeder on the thermostat housing/outlet, use that to your advantage. Keep topping off your coolant in the coolant reservoir. Drive it around to try and work out the air in the lines. If it persists, try disconnecting a heater hose at the heater core under the hood, but this shouldn’t be necessary.
It looks as though you arent replacing the disconnected fuel tubes. I read elsewhere they are single use, im assuming because its a compression fit? Have you had any issues reusing existing tubes?
No issue whatsoever.
I also reused the fuel tubes on my 2014 Ecodiesel. Had to replace this same small hose under the manifold. This job takes a bit of time. Crazy design to have a hose under the manifold like that.
@segstron ya with the rest being steel stupid I'm in one right now lol pray for me 😂😂
How many hours did this job take you to complete. Just to gauge what I should expect.
I typically allow myself 2 to 3 hours on this job. But this depends on your skill level and ability. This could also take someone three days to finish if a complication comes up, such as the socket cap bolt head stripping on the compressor outlet if someone wasn’t being mindful of it.
I'm in about 16 hours and just got my intake back in
book calls for 9-12 hours ..... i am already 20 into it
Does that leak actually show up externally like fluid you can actually see dripping from the truck ?
Yes, typically it flows towards the rear of the engine, flows down the transmission and drips from the transmission fluid pan, etc.
@@tadsworkshop I have no external leaks I can’t find on my 2015 . Loosing coolant just trying to narrow it down . Probably the egr cooler wasn’t much soot just a wet soot what there was of it thanks
Hello man, how much is cost of the repair of that leakage?
Your going to have to call around to your local repair shops to get a feel for it. Varies widely.
if l do anymore, it will be 1200 minimum
do you have a link to order this from?
amzn.to/3SxmQAK
Can you tell me what’s the dorman part number?
667-562, it’s in the video description.
@@tadsworkshop thank you so much for info
Them 3.0 ecodiesel are a nightmare to work on and break easy
Like anything else today, no thought or care given to serviceability. As long as it will last the warranty period, nothing else matters. The real truth is, automotive manufacturing is all for profit, not for the benefit of the consumer.
Garbage of a truck