I’ve watched your video 3 times. Starting this tear down today. new Dorman steel braided line coming this afternoon and replacement intake tomorrow. 2014 deleted jeep grande Cherokee here 250k miles. Love my eco diesel.
Just finished mine. I appreciate the video. It’s very detailed and helped me enormously when it comes to finding some of the sensors to unplug for the wiring harness as well as location of some of the bolts and screws. Made my job so much easier. Great video.Thanks again.
And I thought a timing belt replacement on my 2006 LS430 was a deep dive! Don't know how you pros do this day in and day out and make it look so effortless when it's clearly not -- great job. Would trust you with my car, and believe me, that's saying a lot. 🙂
Not only that, but the calm vocal cadence and clarity of vocabulary honest to God instills confidence in my mediocre skill set. Learning from the best though, pretty sure anyway. AMD atCarCareNut, FordTechMaku, ScannerDanner, Schrodenger are the only competition, but I see yall as a team. Just Sayin
@@NutsandBoltswithTone can you tell me how far the glow plug connectors seat on the top of the post? It doesn’t seem all the way down but I don’t want to ham fist it and break one
Great video with all the necessary tips, tricks, and tools! One of the questions I had was why you would replace all of the hard steel fuel pressure lines? Gaskets and seals I would understand, are they prone to fail? I bought this Grand Cherokee used with 142k but the motor was factory replaced at 97k. Only reason I will be diving into this is because I purchased a Banks intake as part of a full delete Im working on in hopes to prolong the life and remove some fail points. Appreciate any help or additional guidance that I should pay attention to would be awesome. Thank you!
Thanks for the info on the pliers my Snap-on guy has those on the truck and I was telling him about your video I just want to make sure they were the right ones. I didn't mean air tool either I'm glad you knew what I meant. Autocorrect damn you
I have a 2015 Bighorn Eco diesel, I’m hoping it’s the same problem because it’s leaking from the exact position of that hoes. Thanks bro the video was very helpful.
Had a dealership do this for my Jeep gc 2015 eco diesel. Don’t have the mpg I had before the repairs. Now the dealership tells me the intercooler hoses were loose and want to replace them for $2200! Would they have touched any of the hoses for the intercooler? Should I be getting this labor on this hose swap for free? They did the high pressure fuel pump recall , all hoses and lines for turbo and water pump. Now back in shop for intercooler hoses which triggered an electronic throttle control warning and put Jeep into limp mode? Should the dealer never be used again and do you think they didn’t boost test the turbo after swapping all its lines and just pressure tested the coolant
So first thing is that yes the cac tubes would have been disconnected to do this. But if it was in for a cooling system issue there is no reason to test boost system. It is possible that something went wrong in the repair as the intake would have been removed a long with throttle body, egr, etc. But there is no way to know.
@@NutsandBoltswithTonethank you so much for the response. Yes it went in because of the turbo coolant line leak, like in this video. So we replaced everything we could while they were deep in there. Came back and had horrible gas mileage on my trip of 2000 miles, about 60 miles after I returned home to Georgia the etc failed. So from the day I recieved my vehicle after repairs. I had poor mpg and a whistle coming from what I thought was turbo but was most likely a boost leak all along. Thank you again for your response.
@@NutsandBoltswithToneone thing to note. Before the dealership worked on my vehicle I could drive from Savannah Georgia to the suburbs of Chicago on two tanks of gas. After dealership did repair . I had to stop 4 times within 1000 miles. So instead of getting 600 miles to my full tank , I got about 350 miles on a full tank on the highways . That right there , kinda tells me something wasn’t tightened to specs . But no at to really prove it
Stealership charged me 4k to do this job because they said they had to remove the whole cab to get it done. Still have a coolant leak. I think it might be the water pump. Good thing you do a video on that job.... I'll be doing it myself this time.
Yeah it is a very expensive and time consuming job. So the one I did lifting the cab was going to be way more work because of toolboxes and ladder racks and such. I only replaced the rubber part of the hose and the front part of the metal line. But to replace that hose assembly you are supposed to lift the cab. Depending on how long it has been since you had that work done take it back and say hey I still have a coolant leak and hopefully they will tell you what is wrong. Well if not here is a link to how to replace the water pump in that truck. ruclips.net/video/5Zc18c_4NQg/видео.html If you have any questions or need any help hit me up on Instagram. Thanks for watching.
This was the first time I have used the dealership for work, I normally do all my own work. I appreciate you putting your content out there on this engine!! Glow plugs also don't look as easy as you would think they should be, 😂
I do this job often as a dealership dedicated diesel tech. I charge people the same amount of time as Alldata says but I pull the cabs still because I pull them fairly quickly and i feel I save time rather than fighting in the tight places. Often the 5mm Hexs can become an issue, but less of an issue if you already have thr cab up. Plus there is a small hose right above the transmission I replace too that i see rupture often. With my customers theres about 4 hard to reach hoses ill replace while the cab is up.
So are the clamps not already crimped on the new hose? Or did you have to remove one clamp and get a new clamp so you didn’t have to replace the rear metal half of that line?
The new hose assembly is all one piece rubber hose clamped to metal lines in front and rear. This truck was going to require a lot of extra work to lift the cab. So I only replaced rubber hose and front part of hose assembly. Technically to replace this line you have to remove the cab. Thanks for watching
@@dieseltechjoeok I gotcha. The one we did had the EGR removed so we were able to replace the complete hose assembly without too much of a hassle. It would definitely be easier to just replace the front half though.
I’m currently in the middle of replacing my water pump on a 2015 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel. I did notice some fluid back under the manifold is this a clear sign that the leak is coming from under the manifold? Also your video on how to remove the pump was extremely helpful thanks!!
Thank you. No it is not a for sure sign that it is under the intake, could be from an o ring at water pump running back or even water pump leaking and running back. It is kind of a crappy thing because once you put the water pump back on you cannot see. I would spray out from under the intake best you can and then monitor it. Thanks for watching.
Between the fuel rail on the left-hand passenger side, I have some long plastic tabs I can’t get off. How did you get yours off? They are some plastic with wires connected to the wire harness
Are you talking about the flow plug connectors? If so you just twist and pull up. Message me on Instagram if that's not it. Send a picture. Thanks for watching
How's the origin of all those "American" parts.... Thailand, Indonesia, Italy, Germany, etc. What a ridiculous situation, a vehicle struck down from a $2 hose in a place that costs $4000 to get too. Awesome detailed video mate Credit to you... and my condolences to anyone caught in this situation
Yeah it is a bummer to have to do so much work for something so small however this is how it is with vehicles. sometimes we just have huge jobs for something so small. Thanks for watching.
I think i currently have this problem with my EcoD. Where are you located? Also have the P0299 code. Replacing the map sensor with a new one and putting in a new air filter. Hopefully that will solve the underboost issue. Gotta get them corrected to sell the truck. Got a 2500 Cummins to replace it.
P0299 could be so many things, charge air piping, exhaust, turbo, etc. Good luck with the map sensor because otherwise it could be difficult to diagnose. Thanks for watching. Message me on Instagram if you need anymore help.
How far do the electrical connectors seat down on the top of the glow plugs? They were hard as hell to get off but I don’t want to ham fist it and break a post off
Usually they are not incredibly hard to get off. When putting them back on you will feel them click down on the glow plugs. Thank you for watching. Hit me up if you have any questions.
Do you know how many hours the book calls for to do this job on a 2014 Cherokee? I have one that was just dropped off and am trying to biuld the estimate.
I actually am not sure, I am out of work for about 4 more weeks from ankle surgery. The first Eco diesel I worked on was head gaskets on a jeep cherokee. I googled turbo remove on a jeep and some people were saying the dealer told them they were going to remove the body. I am not sure though. I did not remove the body to do the headgaskets but it was not fun. You can short cut the job but it is tough to give a warranty this way. If you message me on Instagram I will tell you what I have done on these. Thanks for watching.
I did this repair on my 2015 ram 1500 ecodiesel and my heater in the cab stopped working (it blows somewhat cool) it worked before repair. Also the truck takes a while now to heat up, I changed the thermostat and still takes a while to heat up, not sure what to do next
I would say that if it worked before and does not now and all the repairs were done correctly either you have air in the heater hoses or the heater core itself is clogged. I have had several different vehicles that after I repaired coolant hoses specifically heater hoses and the heater had a problem after it was the heater core. Most likely had buildup inside heater core and once coolant was drained and the crud in there was disturbed and then coolant entered the heater core it was plugged. Message me on Instagram if you have any further questions I can try to help you out with this. Thank you for watching.
@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks man! Keep up the work your doing for us, I greatly appreciate what you do, you ha e already saved me a few thousand bucks from watching what you do and how you do it!
Could be air but also could be that coolant 3-way valve located behind the right front wheel liner. Yup theres an electric valve that sends coolant flow to your heater core.
I would imagine if you had a good one and new exactly what you were looking for and how to get access. I left cooling system together, pulled intake and pressure tested. You can see front of engine valley with intake on so maybe best option is to take air nozzle, blow all coolant to rear of valley, pressure test and if you see coolant at front of valley then probably water pump, if you see leaking down rear of engine but nothing in front of valley then probably hose. Thanks for watching.
I just answered a comment and he said he paid $4k. To do this job properly you have to lift the cab but on this truck lifting the cab was going to take a lot of extra time so I only replaced the rubber portion of the hose and the front metal end of the hose. It is a big job and to do it correctly lifting the cab has to happen. Thank you for watching.
That’s a huge pile of parts, just for a bad rubber hose. Thanks engineers.
Yes you are very correct. Thank you for watching Steve
I’ve watched your video 3 times. Starting this tear down today. new Dorman steel braided line coming this afternoon and replacement intake tomorrow.
2014 deleted jeep grande Cherokee here 250k miles.
Love my eco diesel.
Awesome good luck and thanks for watching.
Can u tell me please the name of the tools i want to do it by myself!
Seeing you do this job gives me the confidence to tack it myself. Wow you are very impressive, thanks.
Just finished mine. I appreciate the video. It’s very detailed and helped me enormously when it comes to finding some of the sensors to unplug for the wiring harness as well as location of some of the bolts and screws. Made my job so much easier. Great video.Thanks again.
Awesome, very happy to hear.
And I thought a timing belt replacement on my 2006 LS430 was a deep dive! Don't know how you pros do this day in and day out and make it look so effortless when it's clearly not -- great job. Would trust you with my car, and believe me, that's saying a lot. 🙂
Yeah this engine is always big job. Thanks for watching
It always amazes me how much knowledge you have. I looked at that and thought oh no way 👊🏻
Not only that, but the calm vocal cadence and clarity of vocabulary honest to God instills confidence in my mediocre skill set. Learning from the best though, pretty sure anyway. AMD atCarCareNut, FordTechMaku, ScannerDanner, Schrodenger are the only competition, but I see yall as a team. Just Sayin
@@radleybradford1356I'd add Eric O. at South Main Auto Repair to that list of pros too.
Thank you very much that is very kind. I felt that way the very first time I looked at one and I was doing head gaskets. Thanks for watching.
Those guys are all awesome, and back in my earlier days I learned form Scanner Danner. Thanks for watching
@@NutsandBoltswithTone can you tell me how far the glow plug connectors seat on the top of the post? It doesn’t seem all the way down but I don’t want to ham fist it and break one
Great video with all the necessary tips, tricks, and tools! One of the questions I had was why you would replace all of the hard steel fuel pressure lines? Gaskets and seals I would understand, are they prone to fail?
I bought this Grand Cherokee used with 142k but the motor was factory replaced at 97k. Only reason I will be diving into this is because I purchased a Banks intake as part of a full delete Im working on in hopes to prolong the life and remove some fail points.
Appreciate any help or additional guidance that I should pay attention to would be awesome. Thank you!
Complicate explain everything step-by-step. Good job.
Thank you
Great video. Wish u were in NC.
Thank you. If you ever find your self in Sacramento California hit me up.
Thanks for the info on the pliers my Snap-on guy has those on the truck and I was telling him about your video I just want to make sure they were the right ones. I didn't mean air tool either I'm glad you knew what I meant. Autocorrect damn you
Sweet. Those pliers are the best ones because they swivel
Cool vid! Your job certainly is not getting any easier. You just seem to make it look easy!
Well thank you Bill I appreciate that. I am clearly a great faker lol. Thanks for watching
I have a 2015 Bighorn Eco diesel, I’m hoping it’s the same problem because it’s leaking from the exact position of that hoes. Thanks bro the video was very helpful.
You are very welcome, and message me on Instagram if you need any help. Thanks for watching.
Hey dude what is that hose clamp removal and reinstall air tool called for European fuel lines
The clamps are called clic loc clamps. Here is a link to the swiveling pliers I use. They are awesome.
amzn.to/46d1Oeu
Thank you for watching
It's called click R
Had a dealership do this for my Jeep gc 2015 eco diesel. Don’t have the mpg I had before the repairs. Now the dealership tells me the intercooler hoses were loose and want to replace them for $2200!
Would they have touched any of the hoses for the intercooler? Should I be getting this labor on this hose swap for free?
They did the high pressure fuel pump recall , all hoses and lines for turbo and water pump. Now back in shop for intercooler hoses which triggered an electronic throttle control warning and put Jeep into limp mode? Should the dealer never be used again and do you think they didn’t boost test the turbo after swapping all its lines and just pressure tested the coolant
So first thing is that yes the cac tubes would have been disconnected to do this. But if it was in for a cooling system issue there is no reason to test boost system. It is possible that something went wrong in the repair as the intake would have been removed a long with throttle body, egr, etc. But there is no way to know.
@@NutsandBoltswithTonethank you so much for the response. Yes it went in because of the turbo coolant line leak, like in this video. So we replaced everything we could while they were deep in there. Came back and had horrible gas mileage on my trip of 2000 miles, about 60 miles after I returned home to Georgia the etc failed. So from the day I recieved my vehicle after repairs. I had poor mpg and a whistle coming from what I thought was turbo but was most likely a boost leak all along.
Thank you again for your response.
@@NutsandBoltswithToneone thing to note. Before the dealership worked on my vehicle I could drive from Savannah Georgia to the suburbs of Chicago on two tanks of gas. After dealership did repair . I had to stop 4 times within 1000 miles. So instead of getting 600 miles to my full tank , I got about 350 miles on a full tank on the highways . That right there , kinda tells me something wasn’t tightened to specs . But no at to really prove it
@@Itsallhood yeah I agree that something didn't go right. Hopefully after you get it fixed everything works properly
Stealership charged me 4k to do this job because they said they had to remove the whole cab to get it done. Still have a coolant leak. I think it might be the water pump. Good thing you do a video on that job.... I'll be doing it myself this time.
Yeah it is a very expensive and time consuming job. So the one I did lifting the cab was going to be way more work because of toolboxes and ladder racks and such. I only replaced the rubber part of the hose and the front part of the metal line. But to replace that hose assembly you are supposed to lift the cab. Depending on how long it has been since you had that work done take it back and say hey I still have a coolant leak and hopefully they will tell you what is wrong. Well if not here is a link to how to replace the water pump in that truck.
ruclips.net/video/5Zc18c_4NQg/видео.html
If you have any questions or need any help hit me up on Instagram. Thanks for watching.
This was the first time I have used the dealership for work, I normally do all my own work. I appreciate you putting your content out there on this engine!! Glow plugs also don't look as easy as you would think they should be, 😂
I do this job often as a dealership dedicated diesel tech. I charge people the same amount of time as Alldata says but I pull the cabs still because I pull them fairly quickly and i feel I save time rather than fighting in the tight places. Often the 5mm Hexs can become an issue, but less of an issue if you already have thr cab up. Plus there is a small hose right above the transmission I replace too that i see rupture often. With my customers theres about 4 hard to reach hoses ill replace while the cab is up.
So are the clamps not already crimped on the new hose? Or did you have to remove one clamp and get a new clamp so you didn’t have to replace the rear metal half of that line?
The new hose assembly is all one piece rubber hose clamped to metal lines in front and rear. This truck was going to require a lot of extra work to lift the cab. So I only replaced rubber hose and front part of hose assembly. Technically to replace this line you have to remove the cab. Thanks for watching
The hoses are a Click style clamp. The use of a special pliers removes and installs them. They are reusable.
@@dieseltechjoeok I gotcha. The one we did had the EGR removed so we were able to replace the complete hose assembly without too much of a hassle. It would definitely be easier to just replace the front half though.
I’m currently in the middle of replacing my water pump on a 2015 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel. I did notice some fluid back under the manifold is this a clear sign that the leak is coming from under the manifold? Also your video on how to remove the pump was extremely helpful thanks!!
Thank you. No it is not a for sure sign that it is under the intake, could be from an o ring at water pump running back or even water pump leaking and running back. It is kind of a crappy thing because once you put the water pump back on you cannot see. I would spray out from under the intake best you can and then monitor it. Thanks for watching.
Yea its hard to locate the leak at this point but we'll keep at it, thanks for the response.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone
Did you disconnect the battery before unplugging any connections? I’m assuming I need to
All the service info always says to but I do not. Thank you for watching.
Between the fuel rail on the left-hand passenger side, I have some long plastic tabs I can’t get off. How did you get yours off? They are some plastic with wires connected to the wire harness
Are you talking about the flow plug connectors? If so you just twist and pull up. Message me on Instagram if that's not it. Send a picture. Thanks for watching
Hello man, where are you located ? How much is the cost of that leakage repair?
I am in Sacramento California. I'm not completely sure. I think it was over 20 hours. Technically you are supposed to pull the cab.
How's the origin of all those "American" parts....
Thailand, Indonesia, Italy, Germany, etc.
What a ridiculous situation, a vehicle struck down from a $2 hose in a place that costs $4000 to get too.
Awesome detailed video mate
Credit to you... and my condolences to anyone caught in this situation
Yeah it is a bummer to have to do so much work for something so small however this is how it is with vehicles. sometimes we just have huge jobs for something so small. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone Italian Enginneering 🤣
I think i currently have this problem with my EcoD. Where are you located? Also have the P0299 code. Replacing the map sensor with a new one and putting in a new air filter. Hopefully that will solve the underboost issue. Gotta get them corrected to sell the truck. Got a 2500 Cummins to replace it.
P0299 could be so many things, charge air piping, exhaust, turbo, etc. Good luck with the map sensor because otherwise it could be difficult to diagnose. Thanks for watching. Message me on Instagram if you need anymore help.
How far do the electrical connectors seat down on the top of the glow plugs? They were hard as hell to get off but I don’t want to ham fist it and break a post off
Usually they are not incredibly hard to get off. When putting them back on you will feel them click down on the glow plugs. Thank you for watching. Hit me up if you have any questions.
Why can’t the rubber that degrades & blows out be replaced with a braided steel line ? That would be much more reliable right ?
I guess you could but I would just replace with OEM hose assembly. Too much work to do it twice
Dorman do a braided steel replacement hose you would have been better using one
Oh I did not know that but to be honest Dorman is my very last option always. Thanks for watching.
Great tutorial....thumbs and subbed
Thank you very much I appreciate that, and thank you for watching.
Do you know how many hours the book calls for to do this job on a 2014 Cherokee? I have one that was just dropped off and am trying to biuld the estimate.
I actually am not sure, I am out of work for about 4 more weeks from ankle surgery. The first Eco diesel I worked on was head gaskets on a jeep cherokee. I googled turbo remove on a jeep and some people were saying the dealer told them they were going to remove the body. I am not sure though. I did not remove the body to do the headgaskets but it was not fun. You can short cut the job but it is tough to give a warranty this way. If you message me on Instagram I will tell you what I have done on these. Thanks for watching.
Can you list tools used for this job? Thank you
Message me on Instagram and I can try to help you out. Thanks for watching.
I did this repair on my 2015 ram 1500 ecodiesel and my heater in the cab stopped working (it blows somewhat cool) it worked before repair. Also the truck takes a while now to heat up, I changed the thermostat and still takes a while to heat up, not sure what to do next
I would say that if it worked before and does not now and all the repairs were done correctly either you have air in the heater hoses or the heater core itself is clogged. I have had several different vehicles that after I repaired coolant hoses specifically heater hoses and the heater had a problem after it was the heater core. Most likely had buildup inside heater core and once coolant was drained and the crud in there was disturbed and then coolant entered the heater core it was plugged. Message me on Instagram if you have any further questions I can try to help you out with this. Thank you for watching.
@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks man! Keep up the work your doing for us, I greatly appreciate what you do, you ha e already saved me a few thousand bucks from watching what you do and how you do it!
@alenrodarte7505 awesome brotha I got a lot more in store for this year. Cheers
Could be air but also could be that coolant 3-way valve located behind the right front wheel liner. Yup theres an electric valve that sends coolant flow to your heater core.
@dieseltechjoe I checked it out but the thing is the valve doesn't get hot coolant going into it hose is cool,
What size rubber hose?
why you take the fuel rail out ?
@@davidbrazier1795 to get intake out
Did you walnut blast that intake manifold?
No
@@NutsandBoltswithTone would you mind telling what the customer was billed? I think I need this and would like a reference point.
@@kayvonmansouri intakes manifolds labor time plus 1.5 to 2 hours but can vary
Can you see the hose without removing everything by using an endoscope?
I would imagine if you had a good one and new exactly what you were looking for and how to get access. I left cooling system together, pulled intake and pressure tested. You can see front of engine valley with intake on so maybe best option is to take air nozzle, blow all coolant to rear of valley, pressure test and if you see coolant at front of valley then probably water pump, if you see leaking down rear of engine but nothing in front of valley then probably hose. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone Appreciate taking the time to reply and thanks for the tip, Tone!
@@flyingjoed yw keep me posted on what u find
Thank you!
Your welcome, thanks for watching.
6:52 What does the other end of the little hose go to?
I am not sure what hose you are talking to. shoot me a message on Instagram and I can try to help you out.
What does a job like this charge?
I just answered a comment and he said he paid $4k. To do this job properly you have to lift the cab but on this truck lifting the cab was going to take a lot of extra time so I only replaced the rubber portion of the hose and the front metal end of the hose. It is a big job and to do it correctly lifting the cab has to happen. Thank you for watching.
Casi $4,000 dólares me cobraron en el dealer de la ram por este trabajo
Thank u
Your welcome