The ecodiesel is very environmentally friendly because it stops emitting any CO2 at all after a few years. It also incentivises use of public transport or bicycles. Truly an incredible design.
Uh it is not physically or chemically possible to use a petroleum based fuel source and not produce CO2 that is the chemical equation for the reaction : (petroleum fuel molecule) + O2 => CO2 + H2O the amounts of each molecule differ depending on what fuel is used. So you CAN’T not produce CO2. So unless they have some sort of scrubber to not allow for the CO2 to come out tailpipe ( highly doubt that the cost of the vehicle would be double to triple) then what the F;):)k are you talking about?
I can't remember what it is, but I seem to remember something about how the bottom end is built cause catastrophic failure of multiple bearing spinning and one or more rods exiting the block
This engine ran reliably in Europe for a decade. It was destined for the European Cadillac SUV offering. That changed when Fiat bought many companies in its acquisition of Dodge/Ram. The Ecodiesel's downfall is attributed to US emissions on an engine that wasn't designed for them. I bought a 2015 Ram Ecodiesel brand new and used it as a work truck. There were several recalls and exhaust regen issues all due to the immissions. The truck drove like a car, even while pulling a trailer. It was really fun to drive. I did my research, and I knew the issues with the engine and purchased a factory extended warranty. I was getting 20mpg's pulling a light trailer. At 60k mile's, I started to hear a low end knock. I know what a main bearing failure sounds like. I took it to the dealer and had them check it out. They dropped the oil pan and found metal shavings. The dealer ordered me a replacement engine from Ram. This is a cab off repair, and at the end of six weeks, I had my truck back. The bill coveted by warranty was 26k, which included a rental truck the entire six weeks. I put another 50k on the truck and traded it in for a Ram 2500 with a Cummins in it. Lol...
Im a power train enginer from ram. were not that dumb we tald our higher upps about all the problems we had they didn't believe us and we were shocked when it actually made it in to production... But I just work here man idk we told them🤦♂
You are correct and it's the same for any newer US engine with new emission standards to support a lot of DEF. Solution is always to remove the emissions hardware and software. Many do it in US states that no longer do vehicle inspections for registration. They all run better without it reliably
@stlswagger I was researching doing that, but was waiting for my warranty to expire. The biggest thing I found was a need to do the work myself. In 2022, several shops in my area were fined out of business for doing this type of work. This made reprogramming the computer an issue for someone doing their own work. At the time, the only option was to remove the computer and send it to a company to reprogram. This wasn't an option because I needed the truck for work.
This is nearly exactly what happened to mine. Have a 2014 Jeep GC summit with ecodiesel- very well maintained with oil changed every ~6k miles. First time I had an issue was at ~70k miles, the engine started making a noise like an exhaust leak and had zero power. It was tough to keep the engine running at idle. Chrysler said that a piece of carbon had fallen off of the intake manifold and gotten stuck in the valve causing it to stick open and get mangled by the piston - exactly what you showed. They only replaced one cylinder head at that time- didn't touch the piston and claimed it was fine; repair was covered under third party warranty bought through Chrysler. The car made it about another 5k miles when the engine started making a horrible screeching/rattling noise and eventually cut out completely. Towed into Chrysler and it was exactly as you found here with a slipped crankshaft bearing and mangled connecting rod. (although the rod cap wasn't wedged in the block!). The determination this time was that another big flake of carbon had fallen off out of the intake manifold and into the valves causing the same as you found; piston smashes valves and ruins the connecting rod/crank. Ended up getting a brand new engine under the same warranty (best decision I ever made!) I think the moral of the story is that these engines would have probably been fine if the EGR was removed; the amount of crap that is put back into the intake with that system should be criminal and ultimately just dirties and destroys an engine that is otherwise in perfect shape.
Today a coworker and I tore down an old 350, we knew it was blown when we found 3 holes in the oil pan, it threw four rods, and broke the crank. I was thinking about these videos the entire time. Thank you for the entertainment.
When I see these videos it reminds me of back in 1981 when my friend and I tore down his 360 out of an old Hornet-X. I remember the pushrods looking like Candy Canes! He was racing a '67 Fairlane GTA, he side-stepped the clutch in the AMC @ 6500 rpms, we had the Fairlane GTA through 1st and most of 2nd gear, then "BOOM", the GTA roared past us and we coasted to a stop in total silence! This V6 Diesel has to be one of the worst engines to work on, no matter what kind of vehicle it's in.
My dad had a 2016 Eco Diesel, really was a great truck for him. His warranty ended last year and the last 3 months of his warranty involved the melted intake. He ended up trading it in and he’s never been more relieved lol
I lived off these vehicles for a while as an FCA tech. I did 13 engines within a year and a half of the release, most with blown rod, or main bearings. Did countless EGR coolers, until the recall. Also was one of the first techs to run into the magnets falling off the tone wheel ( mounted to the rear of the crank behind the flexplate). They would crank, build fuel pressure but wouldn't fire, they'd also show RPM, had to put a labscope on the crank signal to see that the signal would completely disappear.
Ah the damn tone wheel for crank sensor - what a great idea. Tranny out for a 20 min job. I would hang the designers of this engine for stupidity behind their design choices.
My local Chrysler dealership looks like a junkyard for Amazon delivery vans. If they can't competently fix those, I have no idea as to how they'd be able to work on one of these.
It's because the manufacturers chose the cheapest most destructive way to adhere to emission regulations. There's proof that dimpled pistons lower emissions and increase horsepower while increasing fuel economy by burning more of the diesel that is injected however this was discovered by an independent company. Why wasn't it discovered by one of the major manufacturers? One is since the corporate tax was lowered companies no longer have an incentive to spend money on R&D and use that as a write off. Two companies don't have an incentive to make their products last longer. The sooner a vehicle breaks down the sooner they can sell part to fix it and can charge you for the repairs, which is where most dealers actually make their money. Three this country was setup with a lack of public transportation, on purpose car companies lobbied congress back in the 20's to stop mass public transit systems, therefore we are stuck with needing a car if you want a job. So in the end the car manufacturers have a captive market which has no choice but to buy their products regardless of price all thanks to greed eliminating public transit.
I got over 700k miles on a 1980 Mercedes 240D . It was using a qt every 500 miles or so, and was really hard to start during the winter (even using the block heater). But it was still doing the job. Only thing that was every done to the engine besides oil changes, was valve adjustments every 50k, one timing chain replacement,one water pump, 2 vacuum pumps. The fuel pump and injectors were original (I always added 2 stroke oil or transmission fluid, or filtered used motor oil plus PowerService Diesel Kleen o the fuel at each fill up)
@@The_Lincoln_Penny Yep. That OM616 and OM617 were some of the most reliable engines ever made. It's a shame you can't buy a new car with one of them in it. Thanks EPA.....
@@chrisroberts5099 I only used about 2 qts per tank when using motor oil. I tried using lager quantities per tank but I noticed a slight loss of power in my 240D . With the 240D having just 77hp , a loss of a couple of horses is noticeable. I never noticed the power loss in my 300D and 300SD (both were turbocharged) but I still stuck with 2qts max. The injector pump needs just enough oil to make up for the lack lubricity caused by ultra low sulfur fuel.
Thanks for doing another one of these. I've had a 2nd gen one from 2016 which has a reputation for being a mechanical nightmare. I was "taken" by my local dealership for $5800 dollars because they claimed I had a completely contaminated fuel system and a 100% clogged fuel filter housing that caused it. They originally quoted me $15k for the repair, and my warranty repair was denied because they said the filter situation was "negligence." I literally owned the truck 10 weeks and was still on the shakedown of ownership with it. I brought it into them specifically telling them "I can't hear the fuel pump priming from the tank, start there." The day I picked it up after 3 months of back-and-forth with them, they replaced the lift pump, the filter housing, the high pressure pump and the fuse panel under the hood which is notorious for fuel pump relay failure, and a battery for the previously mentioned $5800. The truck still wouldn't start and I had it towed out of there fuming. Fast forward 13 months, a couple complaints to FCA in Detroit, the BBB, my local news channels, and just asking fellow forum people - my neighbor who works on diesels and heavy equipment for over 40 years had my Ram running in 30 minutes. Turns out the problem the entire time was *one* broken wire from the now new fuse panel (TIPM) to the fuel pump. $7 dollars worth of wire. These engines when they work are pretty amazing but like all emissions diesels - the EPA compromised their longevity and reliability - and ultimately the reputations of the designers and manufacturers by forcing gas-engine technology on an engine never intended to eat it's own s**t back down the intake. Since I live in a diesel-emissions exempt state and farm county, a delete was my first thought, but ultimately I went with an aftermarket tune that simply shut off all the parts that kill these engines. Additionally I added an oil catch-can on the PCV side of the system as well just as a precaution. I turned 110k miles yesterday and it's been solid ever since, though I hope I stopped the carnage before it became your next teardown video. :D
@@android584 This was a legit Dodge dealer .. and their tech was literally just out of UTI. I was a dealer mechanic for years, and I could see the ineptitude on his face when I came to pick it up and it wouldn't start.
Would really love to see a 3rd Gen 3.0 Eco diesel teardown.. One of the big selling points of the 3rd Gen was it was supposed to have 80% different new parts to improve the problems the 2nd gen had. I hope you can find one so we can see any differences!
80% new junk perhaps. I’m curious too. A friend of mine recently bought one of these after his first year 6.7 dodge was a continuous nightmare. He’s just a glutton for punishment I guess.
I had a 2019 grand cherokee , 75000 km and the crank shaft bearing has gone ! Precise official dealers maintenance but nothing 20000€ was the budget for repair from jeep official , the car has been disassembled and sold in pieces ! Totally unacceptable situation
There is NO improving ANYTHING until they are allowed to take the tailpipe back out of the intake. There's NOTHING that "new parts" are going fix when the engine is forced to breathe 25% of it's incoming air from out of the exhaust pipe. It's the bullshit emissions systems that are KILLING diesel engines, and WILL CONTINUE to do so until they are removed. Period.
Im on my 3rd eco diesel. I've had gen 1, 2 and now 3. I've had zero problems with my gen 3 up to 70K miles. Gen 1 was a nightmare. Still have it in my wife's 2015 WK. I was told by a friend that works at Stellantis that the Gen 1 was like frankenstein. They took a reliable Italian made engine and bolted on all the USA emissions crap. The Gen 3 was designed with all the emissions stuff in mind up front.
As a long-time diesel owner (and rebuilder) the EPA regulations for diesel engines seem to be almost expressly designed to cause the economic and mechanical failure of diesel engines. They make them run too cold to be powerful or efficient AND cause engines to self-destruct at less than 1/4 life of similar older engines. If I didn't have good older diesel equipment I would be looking for gas to avoid the higher cost of ownership that now accompanies these neutered POS's I am sure my son will keep our equipment as long as we can buy or make parts
I agree, I own 3 Cummins, 2- 24 valve, 1 12, and the 6.4 Ford Powerstroke that has a similar reputation to these Ecodiesels. My PS has 323,000 without any trouble except starter. Of course it was deleted when nearly new. These new ones can be made to live, but these EGR systems are choking and destroying these diesels and must be removed.
@@rondyechannel1399 The fine for me personally(as the tech) is 50k and for the business much more if we get caught deleting I would love to build the newer diesels to there capability BUT I can't afford to take the risk
He wasn't wrong in a way, but maybe not about these particular engines. In the 90's-early 2000's when I was still living in Europe I've owned 3 VM Motori turbodiesel Alfas, 2x 2.0 liters and 1x 2.5L. These were indirect-injected, pushrod, timing-geared (no timing belt or chain) engines, before diesel emissions were a thing (I think one of them might've had a cat, but nothing more). They were beyond reliable, one of them had almost 400k when I sold the engine out of a rusty car, so yes, VM Motori CAN make a reliable diesel engine, but this V6 definitely ain't one.
But this could be his experience. While i have heard of these engines blowing the people i know wi5h them consider them to be not only brilliant engined, but brilliant cars( Grand Cherokee). I had one but bailed out while it was going well some with over 400000ks
Most of the issues with this engine are caused by the emission systems. Diesels are meant to run much cooler but the mandates for "cleaner" vehicles takes all the byproduct and force feed it back to the engine. When you combine that with the fact that many people do not understand the necessity and frequency of regular maintenance, you have failure on a large scale. I have a 1st gen 2014 ecodiesel with 200,000 miles. It has failed twice and both were strictly related to emissions. Once you take care of that problem the issues go away.
Can't believe it failed TWICE on you! The first time it was the engines fault, the second time your fault for still owning the vehicle. ( guess I would think if it got a new motor it should run a long time)
@@OffTheBeatenPath_How is he a Karen? He not wrong, it’s true that diesel engines produce a lot of nasty pollutants into the air and why they have so much complex emissions control devices.
I have been garage DIY wrenching for most of my 70 years. I have rounded off many, but never broken a single socket, (even those from Pennsylvania)! And you did it more than once! Kudos to you! One more item off my bucket list.
You must live in one of those fair weather states or just pick and choose your battles, I have broke all brands of sockets in the last 25 or so years. But to be clear he didn't break sockets,he was using a ½ to ⅜ adapters and that's what failed.
@@quicksilver8180 I have busted a number of 3/8 tool to 1/2 socket adaptors when i used them with my little 3/8 DeWalt 20volt impact driver. So far the Husky adaptors i got to replace the DeWalt adaptors have worked nicely. I do recall breaking the entire end off a 3/8 ratchet tool once without even using a cheater pipe...
I guess I caught Luigi on a good day. I have a 2017 EcoDiesel Ram, completely stock, I've got 134,000 mi on it, tow my camper everywhere, get twice the fuel mileage of my friends Silverado pickup.
Lots of improvements in the second and third generation of these engines. The problem I see is people do not get them up to temperature. It should be used for hauling more than short trips.
I so look forward to your teardown/autotopsy videos. They remind me of my younger days. It's really refreshing to see a genuine person doing genuine things that he genuinely enjoys. Keep it up 👍
I'm on my second 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 3.0 Ecodiesel... it's running just fine... I clobbered a deer with the first one at 180,000 miles...had zero Ecodiesel issues.... my #2 Grand Cherokee also has zero issues....I just keep the oil changes up to date...no extended intervals... Shell Rotella T6 5W -40 and don't use it as a heavy tow vehicle...and no tuners...all stock.
I have 260,000km (161,000miles) on my EcoDiesel and only issue with the engine so far is a glow plug. Proper preventative maintenance and not abusing it makes a world of difference
220,000km here, had a real main seal leak which cost like 2k to repair, other than that, just regular wear and tear repairs for the 10 years I've owned it. It's actually been a great truck to me.
I had a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Loved it. One of my favorite vehicles of all times. It took me to 22 different states as traveling around the northeast territory. 78,000? Something miles engines starting shaking something awful. Broken crank shaft. Jeep paid for that replacement. Haul bill's labor and parts. Just short of $15,000. They have to remove the engine from the bottom of the vehicle so it tied up a lift for so many days to get the parts they needed to repair. So that went towards the billing too. I drove the wheel off it again until it dropped the second crank shaft around 152,000. We sold it with a blown engine. It still ran and moved. With alot of pedal lol.
So I did a water pump and serpentine belt on one back in November. Water pump was leaking and the belt was shredded. Little did I know the thrust bearing was worn out and installing a new belt would cause the crank to fall a bit and wallar out the rear main seal and cause a severe oil leak. I've told my advisor I refuse to work on these engines when they come in on trade. The water pump, with labor is over $2500.
Huh?? The thrust bearing controls FORE and AFT movement of the crank. NOT up and down movement, and would NOT "wallar out the rear main seal". And even if it DID, a serpentine belt would NOT EVER hold a crankshaft up, and keep it from "wallaring" a front OR rear main seal out. NO way, NO how.... 😒 DON'T make bullshit up, because someone smarter than you will ALWAYS call you out on it. Edit: Also, if you told your "advisor" that you "refuse" to work on certain vehicles, you'd be FIRED on the SPOT. 💯% If I was your adviser, I'd have walked you OUT the door just for that bullshit story that you just told. If you think that COULD actually happen, I wouldn't want you TOUCHING ANY vehicle that came into my shop.
A difficult but very interesting teardown. Very much enjoyed it. The soot from the EGR emissions though is just scary to think that’s going back into the intake.
It would be nice to take the EGR flow from downstream of the DPF so it is soot free. Unfortunately that's more complicated to do, most diesels use the turbo backpressure to force the EGR gas back into the intake, if you want to take it from downstream of the DPF you need a throttle in the intake and other stuff.
I had one of these in a 2015 1500 RAM I deleted it when it had 28k on it because I could not keep it out of the dealership. It kept plugging up the Manifold Air Pressure sensor located at the back of the intake manifold. After it was deleted I would change the water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt and all the o-rings involved with the water pump every 90k miles. I put 385k on that engine and it was perfect. At around 250k the front end was SHOT and got completely replaced. When I got rid of it it was still getting 23-27 MPG on 33" michelin ATX's. It was a good truck. I ran Lubrimoly toptec 4200 oil with 1 qt Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. Truck never went over 8k on an oil change.
I like your name and that you like diesels.... I was thinking about buying one of these new and getting rid of all that after treatment stuff right away
@@wapiti4680 I see you when old school Indian with you Elk obsession. Very nice. You caught me at my computer. By the time I bought my Ecodiesel I was very financially independent. If you're not flush with cash or not crazy about parting with it to fix a truck I wouldn't own ANY of the new diesels outside of the factory warranty. It could be inviting financial disaster. Be careful. They are expensive to fix. It was a great truck, but I'm not sure my results were typical. I hope you remembered to apply for your Colorado Elk preference point if that's where you hunt. Take care.
Let's be less cynical here. 90% of car parts are recycled. Cars are one of the most if not the most recycled items in the modern world. One day it could be Jeep, a week later it could be bearing case for your chest of drawers
Had a 2014 JGC, just loved the power and fuel economy, 36mpg with average driving but the emission equipment was always failing, DEF injector, particulate matter filter, Cat, etc. Over the first 4 years, every time it would go into service, it would come back getting less fuel mileage to the point it was down to 20mpg on the hwy. When the check engine light would come on, we would take it in for service, pick it up in a couple of days and driving home, the engine light would come on again. Eventually the "Engine Regen" would come on every three or four days. We were in the shop so many times over 4 years that the dealership that sold us the JGC refused to do any more service on it. Chrysler's solution was to have us travel 30 miles to another dealership for service. The final straw was in 2023 when the vehicle went into limp mode when we were 50 miles from anywhere. Took us an hour and a half to get to the nearest small town. Service found that the whole top of the engine was full of carbon slag that looked like wet coffee grounds. The tech told us that Jeep had reprogrammed the engine over time to meet emissions, that it was running too cool and not burning off all the carbon as well as completely decimating out fuel mileage. A friend of mine bought a 2015 but removed ALL the emission equipment and had the computer flashed. He has never had any problems and gets almost 50 miles to the gallon. The emission control equipment on vehicles is a farce and lie put out by environmentalists. You tell me, is is better to double your fuel mileage and save 50% on emissions or have the equipment that saves 10% on emissions, lowers fuel mileage and is always breaking down?
It is a fair point but emissions are not a constant thing, depending on engine load and other variables the mix of chemicals being emitted can vary widely.
@@the1stvendettaJust as they can vary widely with emission control. You can get a constant 50+mpg average without emission equipment. I went from 36mpg to 20mpg over 4 years with it. Sounds like the environmental controls are what is most inconsistent. I thought about removing all the emission crap, researched it very heavy for quite a while but decided to just give up. Australia has the exact same JGC ecodiesel without all the emission equipment and owners there have told me they get a consistent 22km/l, which is over 50mpg. The whole environmental thing is a scam to make the vehicles cost more and to keep fuel prices up.
Jeep and Ram both reflash their ECUs all the time to try to stay in compliance without considering what telling the right equipment to perform in the wrong envelope is doing to the engine. While it probably makes it run "Cleaner", in the long run it's burning more fuel to do the same work less efficiently and emitting more than when it was new.
@@DarkAttack14I agree. The engine is very efficient minus the emission equipment. I was getting 36 mpg around my small town with everything working against fuel economy. So 45 - 50mpg without it, especially on open road is not that far fetched. On one trip from Daytona beach to Syracuse, NY, I filled up before I left, got fuel in Roanoke, Va. Drove around Syracuse for 4 days, filled up and drove South. Filled up again in Charlotte, NC and made it all the way back to Daytona with almost a 3rd of a tank left.
Just driving my 1997 Camry. Original engine, original transmission. Literaly no problems. 27 mpg highway, ~22mpg city. 302,700 miles. Spent 30 minutes changing the spark plugs a week before posting this comment. Simple. Reliable. Fuel efficient enough. Has saved me, and my father who owned it before me, boatloads in repairs that other brands would need by now.
I have owned a 2016 jeep grand Cherokee with the 3 L ecodiesel since new. Currently have 96,000 miles on the vehicle. It has gone through some re-flashes and some other fuel system warranty items but overall the vehicle has been very reliable. I do all of my own maintenance including Amsoil synthetic and fuel filter changes every time the oil gets done. An unfortunate dealer (corporate) experience was two out of the three bolts that connect the catalytic converter to the downpipe had sheared off and they would not fix them under warranty. Five hours later underneath the vehicle, I replaced it with OEM parts. Even though I have the extended emissions warranty through FCA, they claimed those parts were not covered. It became an argument, because I said they were part of the exhaust system, am I wrong? Are the bolts that connect the catalytic converter to the downpipe part of the braking system? Please read through the sarcasm. No more FCA products for me ever.
As someone whos a mechanic and due to skinny arms and dry skin ive got a hard time exerting enough force on electrical connectors ive got a few tips. #1 push the connector in or together before depressing the tab. This works a lot better than one would think. #2 buy a $15 pick set. Theres very few connectors i cant get apart by basically back picking the tab itself. #3 on super stubborn ones mist with a little water or in extreme cases rubber care or ome kind of armor all type product. Remember your spraying on the outside where most connectors are designed to keep out much more water than a mist bottle can do. On ram front and rear bumper harness i douche the outside completly clean with water before opening. Ihad to break more one and replace it before discovering this
This is why I still have my good old WJ 4.7L V8, easy to work with and the engine has never failed. I change the oil and filter every 5000 km and only use 95 grade RON fuel. With its HD242 center transfer case, I just love it,
Had a friend that bought a new ‘14 JGC with one of these engines in it. “Cool!” I thought. Less than a year later I was real surprised to hear he got rid of it. Asked why; he was nervous about the motor long term. Ran fine, no problems, just didn’t like some things about it. I was surprised and didn’t really understand. I guess now I do…
My guess (because it is fun to guess) is that the reason you didn't see much material around the upper parts of the engine was that the failure was relatively quick. Piston / bearing failure possibly loosened first and spun hard making a lot of heat, which contributed to the crank bearing failure, and the rod cap released and probably wedged really quickly, within a couple of rotations. That is why there isn't that much in the way to flailing damage and why there wasn't that much scrap metal and forbidden glitter anywhere except in the pan.
I work on these motors all the time as a diesel tech. The little coolant around the egr cooler is definitely an indication of them leaking. A lot of time you'll see it as an external leak on the exhaust side (not where coolant is supposed to be). I used to do coolers a lot, but now they are under a recall. I also used to do fuel systems a lot, timing failures, front cover leaks, intake manifolds, dpfs, tons of def issues (pumps, injectors, nox sensors) and a couple motors. The thing that gets me, is these motors don't even run as good as other similar motors. The 3.0 tdi runs better, the titan xd runs better, the baby "D" uramax runs better. These also have drivetrain issues with the diff and the transmission, tons of electrical issues. They are laggy turds with lazy transmissions, and no top end. I drove a lot of diesels and these are the worst.
My friend absolutely loves his 'minimax', only recurring issue was the dpf sensor. It ended up being cheaper to delete it than replacing it twice per year.
@hydrocarbon8272 I really like the baby D too. I'd never advocate deleting trucks, but just saying about 80% of all repairs I do on trucks is emissions sensors, or emissions related ;)
@smotpoker15 I'm aware it is also an Italian engine, it is different though. The 7.3 powerstroke and the 6.4 powerstroke were both made by international, yet one sucks and one is great. A lot of it is dodges antiquated electrical and shitty build quality. The worst part of a 6.7 cummins is the dodge that its bolted to. Edit to add, the engine was designed in Italy, but it was manufactured by GM. The eco diesel was designed and manufactured by VM
bought my 15 3.0 Eco at 110k, did the TSB just in time on the EGR cooler which was leaking, soon had the DEF sensor fail and had to rig up a push button start for a bit until it got a tune then lost the $20 crank reluctor wheel which just meant time to add a deeper trans pan time. Added intercooler pipes and cold air intake from AFE and ever since the delete and tune its been a great truck, oil changes at 10k, fuel filter every 20k and it gets 30 mpg still goin strong at 180k now. Getting ready to do the crank reluctor wheel again and swap trans fluid at 200k, still need to replace the intake from the 110k of emissions fueled soot build up too. If I had to pay labor I would get another truck, rumor has it turbo or engine replacement need to take the cab off.
I had a 2018 grand cherokee diesel and at 17k miles had $7000 of warranty repairs of replacing the exhaust manifold that blew. After that I purchased the Mopar extended warranty since I didn't trust the vehicle. At 37k miles the whole exhaust system blew up and was $11k in repairs that was covered under the extended warranty. After that I sold the jeep to carmax and bought a subaru
I was really impressed the way your office was laid out. It was so clean, you could get a lot of work done. You should keep the fridge and microwave in there too and serve lunch.
I used to work in the auto service business in the 80's & 90's -- and all the Jeep Cherokees that came in ALWAYS had expensive repair/maintenance bills. Stuff that would last 4 times as long in other cars would have to be replaced or would breakdown. They were always walking out with $800-$1000 bills when just coming in for an oil change & tire rotation. The vehicles were very nice otherwise, with good performance, great utility, nice style & comfort, it was just the maintenance that would wind up really tragic. I would never buy one of their vehicles -- even the old Wranglers had more problems than you would expect.
With all your humor I am really entertained watching you dismantle engines. Standing on a breaker bar trying to rotate an engine! Dude you're going to get hurt if something should snap. Throwing parts across the shop is my favorite. My wife can sit and watch you dismantle an engine. We love your RUclips channel. Stay safe and see you next time!
The problem is taking the thing to Jiffy Lube or anywhere like that where they get it out of the service bay ASAP, and not giving enough time for the oil to make it into the pan. I believe there's a TSB about this that Fiat Chrysler released, but only a dealership would be aware of this. This is why I change my own oil, and have 170k of reliable operation, other than the EGR cooler recall which caused the truck to sit at the dealer for a month while waiting for the part! My father's wisdom still holds true regarding Dodge, "They build a good engine, it's everything around it that falls apart!" Tony didn't change a thing!
I read a story about 3 yrs ago of a person in South Africa that had one of these Jeeps with the eco diesel. Well he had the same problem with the main bearings but was not damaged to the point that he could not re-build it. He had it all taken apart and had all of the new parts but was unable to get main bearings for the engine. Apparently there were not produced for the public and if you wanted to have the engine rebuilt you would have to buy a short block (talk about up selling) Eventually he was able to find a bearing manufacturer that would build main bearing for this engine. It was repaired and then put for sale. Talk about poor customer service
🎩 hats off to Eric for keeping a lot of cars on the road with all the parts he makes available & helping people out with cheap vehicles & Keeping all the good miatas. In his collection. @ the end of the year he should be awarded an environmental. Award for. Recycling 😂😂
I currently have a 2015 BMW X5 335d with M package, 52K miles in the shop for a similar sounding issue. It is not locked up, just sounds like a rod(s) knocking. We also have an extended 3rd party warranty. It was in the shop for repairs late FEB, early MAR for EGR & SCR recalls. An injector was replaced and some front chassis parts. Let’s see what the diag is this coming week. The car spent half its life in Germany and the second half in TX’s infamous inferno heat. Love your channel. Learn so much from it.
Lifetime of vehicle is defined by the EPA, UAW, and UAIC. 3 years or 36 months for all vehicles below 3/4 ton trucks. 50k for everything else. Has been this way since 2003.
I don’t know if he addressed it but a lot of the bearing failures in these engines were due to the wrong oil spec. In 2016 FCA changed the specification of oil for all eco diesel to help the oil film on the bearings. This engine being a 2014 ran for years on the old specification oil before it should have been changed over. There are a lot of examples of these engines doing well over 300k miles, the highest documented was about 450k.
I had 2016 JGC High Altitude. Ecodiesel. Bot it CPO with 6500 miles. Bought extended warranty ( it’s a Jeep) similar to Chrysler Care. Long Story short the total warranty claims through 2021 was $12,455.00. Of that $6600 were engine related. Melted harness, exhaust manifold separation, egr failure, thermostat , def failure and Cam lifter timing failure ( engine rebuild necessary). The last two years I towed a 5000lbs boat down and back to ( 2x) Florida. So about 5500 miles total towing. I loved the fit and finish of the Jeep and towed like a champ. My overall mileage average ( never reset) was 27mpg. Wanted to love this truck but reality set it over time. The engine rebuild happened with 4 months left on warranty. I did some research about ( Ram 1500… mostly farmers) ecodiesel. Found that ecodiesel was pretty good unless you towed with it. Italian ecodiesel was just not robust enough. Damn shame. Traded it in for a used 21 Landcruiser. … last of the Mohicans.
I have a suspicion. You said it yourself, the top end of that engine was clean. It was immaculately clean. In a diesel engine you will never see an engine that clean in normal operation, not unless they were changing their oil every 100 miles. Diesel causes alot of soot loading in the oil, especially modern diesels with emissions. That’s why the oil turns black within a day of driving. Only reason for the engine to be that clean inside is diesel fuel dilution in the oil. Diesel acts as a solvent which washes the engine. It also provides poor lubrication causing the damage to the bearings and piston skirts. This was likely a prolonged failure until the final seconds. In this engines final moments, the worn main bearing spun. This immediately caused a full lack of lubrication to the corresponding rod bearing. The rod bearing was eaten away and the rod started knocking, the impact forces causing the one rod bolt to snap. The rod cap then hinged, bending and then breaking the second bolt. The rod cap fell between the block and crank where it immediately locked up the engine. I will say though, contrary to one of your comments, this was likely an idle failure. The driver may have command started the car or started it and went inside while waiting for it to warm up. While idling that main spun, and it sat there knocking until the rod cap let go. If it would have been any appreciable rpm, it would have just flung the rod and cap out the block. The operator probably came out and the car had stopped running, wouldn’t restart. Probably towed it to a dealer that pulled the pan and saw the damage.
Huh?? Not a chance this engine came apart at an idle. All the bluing evidence of heat on the crank and rods says this thing came apart at speed. It's obvious that the rod has broken because it seized to the crank and then was snapped off when the crank kept rotating. If the rod would have seized with the engine at an idle, it would have simply stalled the engine, as it wouldn't have had enough power to snap the rod off like that. The rod snapped at speed with some inertia behind it from the quickly rotating engine. The broken rod bolt is definitely evidence that the rod seized to the crank, and then was twisted off with much more force that what would have been if it were idling. Sure engines can toss rods at an idle, but when it happens at that low of an engine speed, the broken rod looks way different. It doesn't seize to the crank journal and twist the rod off the big end like we see here. When it breaks at an idle, it's usually the cap cracking or the rod is broken somewhere other than being twisted off the crank... such as it being broken in the beam somewhere from a crack or stress riser that finally gave way. I had a 500+ C.I. big block throw 2 rods at 7200 RPM's, and it did NOT punch a hole in the block, or EVEN the oil pan for that matter. An engine does not always poke holes thru the block or pan when it chucks rods. And usually not at an idle.
@aregeebee201 The low oil pressure light in most vehicles usually only comes on when the sending unit sees about 2-3psi. Much of the damage in that engine could have occurred before the light even came on, and once it did, it could have been all over in seconds before the driver even noticed it. When my big block chucked 2 rods, it STILL made enough oil pressure when cranking it afterwards to register 5 or so psi on my mechanical oil pressure guage. More than enough to keep an idiot light on a dash from even coming on at all.
When the journal diameter gets increased to create bearing surface, the surface speed between the crank and bearing increases. My 3.0 Duramax has much wider bearings since it's an inline so the journals are smaller in diameter. An Ecodiesel spinning 2k rpm has the same bearing surface speed as my 3.0 Dmax spinning at 3k.
Ha! I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee with this motor! 140K miles on it right now. Had holes melt through the intake manifold at 135. Luckily my brother in law is a master diesel mechanic and was able to replace it. It then had DEF issues and no dealer was able to figure it out. DEF pump replaced and it is no running well again but for how long. It honestly has been a great vehicle.
I own a 2018 Ram that I bought new with one of these engines. People ask me what I think of it, and the answer is always, "I like mine, but I wouldn't recommend getting one." On the fuel cost, I need diesel fuel to be no more than $0.70/gallon higher than gas to have better fuel cost than a Hemi powered truck. I had that for about my first year of ownership and after that it's rarely been close. Over its life this truck has cost me money on fuel. I've had to put an EGR cooler on it but overall it's not a "bad" truck. With the insane prices of vehicles, I'm planning to hang on to it. Thanks for the video Eric.
Very interesting and informative video. Due to the wear present on the majority of surfaces, I would say that the oil quality was not good enough for the job. Piston side skirt wear and camshaft bearing wear were dead giveaways to the lack of proper lubrication. Also, the coolant channels were corroded and crankcase breather was clogged which are more signs of poor maintenance. The impressive things about this engine, were the robustness of the build, the turbocharger, and the timing gear. These are major problem areas of many engines, and this engine passed that test with flying colors. I came away from this teardown thinking that this is a robust and good engine, but that one must be careful about oil change intervals.
I had no issues with my Eco diesel. Good power and fantastic MPG. Really wish we had more diesel engines as options here. Seeing a lot of these engines have issues I sold mine as soon as the dealer warranty was up. Could have used a second turbo but once it got off the line the transmission had plenty of gears.
If I had to guess what went wrong in this motor ...I'd say that for whatever reason, the Main Bearing on that journal spun a little, blocking off the Oil supply to that failed Rod. Thanks for the teardown Eric! Always enjoy watching them!
It's about like that, but also like running a marathon and trying to breather through a straw with the EGR and carbon buidup inside the intake. I deleted mine and replaced the intake manifold very early in it life.
@@robjacobs3369 Yeah I don’t blame you. The government screws everything up. I think I read a article somewhere and there is a compound turbo Eco Diesel that puts pushing 400HP and 600 ft Lbs torque at the wheels. That’s pretty good for a half ton with a 8spd auto. That would pull anything with easy for a half ton.
I only use winter diesel additive to prevent gelling, and nothing in the oil. Only Rotella T6 oil. Some good Ecodiesel forums out there with good maintenance advice.
@@LumbrJck I have a 2015 Ram Eco...I had hell out of it starting at about 45-50K miles. I deleted it and with the exception of a boost sensor it has been flawless since. Now at 203,000 miles.
I had a jeep wrangler JK with a factory fitted 2.8L VM Motori diesel engine, and engine wise it was bulletproof. 220,000km on the clock when it left my hands and it didn't have a hiccup. The same cant be said for all the other jeep Chrysler parts around it. My old man has this 3.0L VM Motori diesel in his 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee and its served him well so far. (Had it since new)
Please don't change a THING you do! And keep doing the things you do, and say, especially your little quips and humorous comments.eg. If I was to turn on your latest episode and did NOT hear " The first thing I'm going to do is see if this thing will turn over", I would be SO disappointed and for sure a little confused, and maybe very uncomfortable about possible other changes coming. When Elvis had a hit song he sang it the same way with the same band and we loved hearing it all again. Thank you.. thank you very much! :)
The Ecodiesel’s original design was for applications with none of the consumer EPA-type regulations. This is why those who have “deleted” their ecodiesels often see improved reliability. But despite the reputation for short life, there are actually many owners with many miles and relatively little trouble. And unsurprising, the most common issues are emissions related components (with DEF systems being the top component issue). The other catastrophic failure is the hpfp- which is a major issue across most makers- Bearing failures (particularly main bearings) are mostly connected to EGR and the soot then building up in the oil and crankcase. This also is an issue for the intake manifold- which literally gets blocked like an artery with heart disease. Again- emissions-related. And finally- the infamous tone wheel failures- where the crank position sensor reads- the magnets delaminate- and there is no redesigned part…
"Owners who have deleted their ecodoesels OFTEN see improved reliability"..... No.. Owners who have deleted their ecodiesels WILL 100% see greatly improved reliabilty.... There, fixed it for you.
Dieselbros are like Saturday morning cartoon villains... "We could have ALL the money, if only we were allowed to cause widespread health problems! Those pesky, meddling EPA guys, they're worse than the FAA!"
Your EPA regulations are ridiculous in Europe se had almost 60% diesel from city cars to cabrios and people are not exactly dropping dead for it. It is just a protection for your auto industry masquerade as "safety" standard. Anyway this engine is not one of the best.
@@davelowets You obviously don't spend much time in any of the major social media groups or message boards for Ecodiesel owners. There are still significant failures with deleted Ecodiesels - overall it does significantly improve your odds of not having some of the major failures. But it does not make these engines bulletproof, nor foolproof.
I own a 94 silverado with a 350 tbi with almost 220k miles. I think I’ll just hold on to it till it finally goes. Idk when that will be but I’m scared to own anything new.
Even to the casual observer the EPA regulations that are targeted specifically at diesels seem to be almost expressly designed to cause the failure of diesel engines as an alternative to gasoline-fueled ICEs in the US market. Incredible cost to implement and maintain emissions equipment that when it fails (and it will since some of it is consumable) leads to decreased performance and possible serious mechanical failure. It's almost like the EPA doesn't want "clean diesel" to be a thing by saddling both the manufacturers and consumers with unreasonable regulations, without which the environment would be just fine, and consumers would be enjoying highly efficient vehicles running on renewable fuels. Instead we're told that the future is giant, heavy slugs of lithium ion ground poison on wheels, with a service life of several years, at which point most owners will throw the entire vehicle away. We are being conned by our own government as well as the vehicle manufacturers. Everyone can see that the EPA at this point has outlived its usefulness as far as vehicles are concerned. The technology has already achieved the goals of pollution reduction as much as they reasonably could have, and at this point it appears that the EPA is pushing a political agenda that really doesn't make much sense, either to the environment or the consumer.
I agree that the diesel regulations are ridiculous. But I think most people have it wrong on Evs. An electric vehicle is mechanically very simple with few parts to go wrong and is virtually maintenance free. The only issue is the battery pack, but with the proper care (following recommended recharge intervals) the Lithium Ion battery cell(s) should last at least 15 years.
I owned a first gen Ecodiesel up until 2022. Had less than 60k on it before I sold it back to the dealer. I had it tuned, later deleted and never had 1 issue with it. I guess I was lucky. The thought of the CP4, DPF, regulations, cams, etc... led me to get rid of her. She was super fuel efficient unlike any other. We're talking 500-600 miles on a tank of fuel. I've switched to the old 5.9l trucks 1 being a 1st gen and 2 a 3rd gen pre emissions. And altough I've spent a great deal of money I've got reliable trucks with parts readily available and easy to get. The Ecodiesel if given time and refinement would be a great engine. It is light and powerful, but falls short in reliability. Which means literally spend the extra cash and get a cummins. Hell buy a powetstroke. But steer clear here 😢.
I'm from Australia, I have 2014 Eco Grand Cherokee with 87,000 miles from new. A TSB was bought out here to up grade the oil to 5W-40. I change the oil at 6,200 mile (10,000k). The only issue I've had is a "Service Electronic Throttle Control" warning on the EVIC which I traced to a clogged MAP sensor. I fitted a catch can @ 40,00 miles and I've no more problems, but I do clean the MAP sensor at every oil change. The bit that worries me now is the Turbo coolant hose, the little one under the inlet manifold is 10yo and a lot of guys here have had issues around 110,000 miles I love my GC but the cost of repairs now I'm retired worries me. Thanks for a great video by the way..👍
These (and any diesel) give much better service if deleted or at least flashed with an emissions intact tune that turns off EGR. Alas, the EPA put a stop to all that, because failed engines don't emit NOX or CO2 and are more environmentally friendly than running engines 😆 The conspiracy theorist in me thinks diesels are under particular government scrutiny and regulation as they are efficient and the government wants all of us to be in EVs. It is notable that when a gas powered engine has an emissions system, the driver gets a check engine light and can keep driving. If a diesel has an emissions issue, the driver gets a check engine light and the countdown to rapid disablement of the vehicle begins. Just something that makes me go hmm...
Imagine all the headaches trucking companies have…those engines have all of this crap installed also, even in the railroad industry they cant escape it.
No, heavy vehicles are still largely exempt for emissions, etc. That's because there is no better alternative where large outputs are required. However, for smaller vehicles like where this engine came from, there is no logical reason why slow, inefficient, complicated and costly diesels shouldn't be required to meet the same standards as what other engine types need to meet.
@@johncoops6897 wrong the OTR industry has been dealing with this also since 2007 and it's even worse there. Imagine a 15 liter Cummins that eats it's egr cooler and turns itself into a bomb. Or a Def system that freezes up derating the engine trying to climb mountain. Oh it gets worse like regeneration fires that have killed drivers. The railroads saw the trouble that the OTR industry was having and basically stopped ordering anything new they are now rebuilding anything and everything possible to stay away from EGR which is on the current regulation. Those engines that were ordered when that egr cooler fails it tends to make a 450k pound locomotive into a flame thrower as it shatters oil and fuel everywhere on hot engine parts.
@@haroldbenton979 - yeah, but whatever. Why should diesel light vehicles be exempted from the emissions standards that other vehicles must comply with? I am certainly not defending emissions laws, and in fact I don't believe in most of the climate crisis carp. However, if it was a level playing field, then a diesel engine would make zero sense for passenger vehicles like this engine was installed in.
@johncoops6897 in a diesel engine unlike a car engine with EGR you end up with massive amounts of unburned carbon from the fuel. This fuel is holding a bigger problem. It's called sulphuric acid that there engines create as a byproduct of using egr. The sulphuric eats about everything and the carbon sandblasts it wearing out the valves and coolers. When they fail you get oil and coolant mixing instant massive problem.
@@haroldbenton979 - despite what the fanbois say, diesel engines are pretty much rubbish. Pointless, boring, expensive, noisy, unreliable, smelly things that are unsuitable for the pickup trucks that Americans think are the best kind of vehicle to drive to the local Wal-Mart to get the weekly shopping. 🤣
VM Motori Diesels are used in European Jeeps since the eighties. The light-duty diesels are known to wear and break early. Their boat diesels are fine.
had one in my 2012 wrangler. 220,000km when it left my hands and the only problem that little 2.8L gave me was a blown turbo hose. The rest of the jeep was a disaster from new.
I have this engine in one of our pickup trucks. It works reasonably well. The only problem was the EGR cooler leak, which I caught early. The EGR cooler has been a problem on several brands of pickups up to tractor trailers. Diesels are different than gas engines. Both the Ecodiesel and the Cummins powered pickups we have, need fuel additives and an operating procedure different than gas engines. I have noticed that many people overrev the engines and shut the engines down while hot. Both behaviors will cause crankshaft and connecting rod issues. Any vehicle today is very expensive, and needs to be operated in a way to get the most longevity.
This engine reminds me of my rather frustrating experience with a Maxxforce 13 in a 2012 International dump truck. The engine itself designed and built originally by MAN was a great running quiet engine in Europe. But Navistar designed their own twin turbo , twin EGR, 4 radiator disaster for it to avoid going to DEF , like the others. They were a disaster , though I ran synthetic oil and went by the hour meter , and avoided idling. Helped a bit. I got more miles out of a 93 Chevy 1500 6.2 diesel than a supposedly million mile lasting 13L maxxforce .. lol
At the beginning of the air intake stroke, the piston is seized at the top of the cylinder by the carbon deposits. The rod end cap and bearing would have had much greater forces to pull down piston free of the carbon deposits. As a result, the cap end bearing would have experienced a lot of excess wear/fatigue, resulting in premature bearing failure, followed by cap bolt failure. The rate of bearing deterioration is amplified by the wrong oil type. Everything is otherwise clean, suggesting good oil change intervals. The wear to the cam bearing surfaces, suggests the wrong oil type.
A friend almost bought a Ram with this in it, good thing he kept his old Toyota. Still running after a warranty frame replacement. Many people think this is a cummins, but it aint!
I had the 2015 Jeep GC with that engine. Loved it for towing and road trip. Did cross country drive and averaged 32mpg. Went downhill after the software update due to the settlement. Less power, more regens. Traded it in at 71k
I have 139,000 miles on a 2015 Big Horn Ecodiesel. I experienced many issues with the Turbo EGR Waterpump. The last major problem was the DEF SCR which caused the dreaded See dealer engine won’t start in 200 miles. Lucky for me the EPA lawsuit covered most of the repairs. The diesel tech said that preventative maintenance is crucial. He recommended Hot Shot’s Extreme every 6,000 miles with oil change and to follow up with every fill up with one ounce of EDT with 20 gallons of Diesel. So far I haven’t noticed any Regeneron like before. I have noticed the better acceleration with using the Diesel Extreme. Could be it’s cleaning the fuel injectors and soot in the EGR.
i have ZERO problem with this engine had run 150K on it , and friend of mine already pass 260K . Now i am on latest version of ecodiesel with 120 k for 4 years >>> ZERO ISSUES , i do oilchange by myself every 10K km
It depends. You talking km or miles. Some would say, a diesel engine is only broken in at 100k km. At 120k or 150k km a diesel shouldn't have had any problems. That's expected. A maintained diesel engine should run at least 250k to 300k. At 400k it is a reliable engine. Of course, it depends on what your expectations from a car are and what you would call 'relieable'.
This was a fascinating tear down, but if I had one, I would seriously question my life choices if I attempted to fix anything major on it. It is insane how much crap is bolted onto that thing...
Love my ecodiesel. 30mpg and plenty of smiles per mile. Purchased used with 40,000 miles it now has 120,000 no troubles in 6 years. That said the first owner did get a new engine. I immediately did the upgrades. Wink. Plus larger capacity AFE oil pan. Amsoil 10w30 HDD non-epa oil with ceratec additive. Oil tested at every oil change when the OLM says to change. No early changes. Just use good oil. If it dies. I will break even. It’s paid for and should last many more years. Every year is more money saved from a new truck payment. Also wait 60-90 seconds before shut off. If on a trip when fueling up or using restroom I just let it idle. Let the oil flow and maintain temperature
The ecodiesel is very environmentally friendly because it stops emitting any CO2 at all after a few years. It also incentivises use of public transport or bicycles. Truly an incredible design.
I lol'd. Current state of the auto industry is a complete dumpster fire
🤣
Uh it is not physically or chemically possible to use a petroleum based fuel source and not produce CO2 that is the chemical equation for the reaction : (petroleum fuel molecule) + O2 => CO2 + H2O the amounts of each molecule differ depending on what fuel is used. So you CAN’T not produce CO2. So unless they have some sort of scrubber to not allow for the CO2 to come out tailpipe ( highly doubt that the cost of the vehicle would be double to triple) then what the F;):)k are you talking about?
@@charlesbell4530You didn't pick up on the sarcasm?
@@melrobinson6919Right over his head. 😂
Chrysler tech here. I cannot express enough how I very much hate, and I do mean hate these engines! I really wish they would stop making them.
A good friend of mine was floating getting a Ram with one of these a few years back. I quickly convinced him to stop thinking about it.
RAM/Dodge is no longer selling vehicles with this engine. 2022 was the last year
They DID- discontinued in all FCA vehicles (USA).
As a diesel tech, I couldn't agree more. Absolute garbage
I can't remember what it is, but I seem to remember something about how the bottom end is built cause catastrophic failure of multiple bearing spinning and one or more rods exiting the block
I am always blown away by how complex the emissions controls are on diesels, it's just completely insane.
and that is a big reason why they are not as reliable now as the pre-emissions diesels. Except the 6.0/6.4!
My '04 LB7 Duramax has no emissions controls whatsoever. The engine also has 520,000 plus miles on it.
Blame the "rolling coal" crowd ...
Thank your EPA that for a less than 2 percent overall reduction in CO2 and other emissions destroyed the reliability of this engine style.
@@williamjones4483 Diesel bros, so proud of creating widespread health problems!
This engine ran reliably in Europe for a decade. It was destined for the European Cadillac SUV offering. That changed when Fiat bought many companies in its acquisition of Dodge/Ram. The Ecodiesel's downfall is attributed to US emissions on an engine that wasn't designed for them. I bought a 2015 Ram Ecodiesel brand new and used it as a work truck. There were several recalls and exhaust regen issues all due to the immissions. The truck drove like a car, even while pulling a trailer. It was really fun to drive. I did my research, and I knew the issues with the engine and purchased a factory extended warranty. I was getting 20mpg's pulling a light trailer. At 60k mile's, I started to hear a low end knock. I know what a main bearing failure sounds like. I took it to the dealer and had them check it out. They dropped the oil pan and found metal shavings.
The dealer ordered me a replacement engine from Ram. This is a cab off repair, and at the end of six weeks, I had my truck back. The bill coveted by warranty was 26k, which included a rental truck the entire six weeks.
I put another 50k on the truck and traded it in for a Ram 2500 with a Cummins in it. Lol...
Im a power train enginer from ram. were not that dumb we tald our higher upps about all the problems we had they didn't believe us and we were shocked when it actually made it in to production... But I just work here man idk we told them🤦♂
You are correct and it's the same for any newer US engine with new emission standards to support a lot of DEF. Solution is always to remove the emissions hardware and software. Many do it in US states that no longer do vehicle inspections for registration. They all run better without it reliably
@stlswagger
I was researching doing that, but was waiting for my warranty to expire. The biggest thing I found was a need to do the work myself. In 2022, several shops in my area were fined out of business for doing this type of work. This made reprogramming the computer an issue for someone doing their own work. At the time, the only option was to remove the computer and send it to a company to reprogram. This wasn't an option because I needed the truck for work.
I've got a 3500 Ram and it was put on a weight loss program. Works like a diesel should. No problems either.
They also fucked up the hemis-lifter failure
This is nearly exactly what happened to mine. Have a 2014 Jeep GC summit with ecodiesel- very well maintained with oil changed every ~6k miles. First time I had an issue was at ~70k miles, the engine started making a noise like an exhaust leak and had zero power. It was tough to keep the engine running at idle.
Chrysler said that a piece of carbon had fallen off of the intake manifold and gotten stuck in the valve causing it to stick open and get mangled by the piston - exactly what you showed. They only replaced one cylinder head at that time- didn't touch the piston and claimed it was fine; repair was covered under third party warranty bought through Chrysler.
The car made it about another 5k miles when the engine started making a horrible screeching/rattling noise and eventually cut out completely. Towed into Chrysler and it was exactly as you found here with a slipped crankshaft bearing and mangled connecting rod. (although the rod cap wasn't wedged in the block!). The determination this time was that another big flake of carbon had fallen off out of the intake manifold and into the valves causing the same as you found; piston smashes valves and ruins the connecting rod/crank. Ended up getting a brand new engine under the same warranty (best decision I ever made!)
I think the moral of the story is that these engines would have probably been fine if the EGR was removed; the amount of crap that is put back into the intake with that system should be criminal and ultimately just dirties and destroys an engine that is otherwise in perfect shape.
Back in the day engines were so well made that it would be a waste buying the warranty, now its a different story cars are disposable!
24 minutes to get to the valve covers. Gotta be a record!
Today a coworker and I tore down an old 350, we knew it was blown when we found 3 holes in the oil pan, it threw four rods, and broke the crank. I was thinking about these videos the entire time. Thank you for the entertainment.
As a friend of mine once said, "You fart too hard and you're gonna blow something out". That 350 farted too hard.
When I see these videos it reminds me of back in 1981 when my friend and I tore down his 360 out of an old Hornet-X. I remember the pushrods looking like Candy Canes!
He was racing a '67 Fairlane GTA, he side-stepped the clutch in the AMC @ 6500 rpms, we had the Fairlane GTA through 1st and most of 2nd gear, then "BOOM", the GTA roared past us and we coasted to a stop in total silence!
This V6 Diesel has to be one of the worst engines to work on, no matter what kind of vehicle it's in.
That sounds like donation material to Eric and the channel 😅
My dad had a 2016 Eco Diesel, really was a great truck for him. His warranty ended last year and the last 3 months of his warranty involved the melted intake. He ended up trading it in and he’s never been more relieved lol
Doesn't seem like that great a truck if he was relieved to be rid of it.
Insane they used a plastic intake on an EGR diesel. My 2012 Passat fortunately stuck with a metal intake manifold.. but I am deleted regardless
@@davecrupel2817saying that it was great until it broke😂
I lived off these vehicles for a while as an FCA tech. I did 13 engines within a year and a half of the release, most with blown rod, or main bearings. Did countless EGR coolers, until the recall. Also was one of the first techs to run into the magnets falling off the tone wheel ( mounted to the rear of the crank behind the flexplate). They would crank, build fuel pressure but wouldn't fire, they'd also show RPM, had to put a labscope on the crank signal to see that the signal would completely disappear.
Ah the damn tone wheel for crank sensor - what a great idea. Tranny out for a 20 min job. I would hang the designers of this engine for stupidity behind their design choices.
Well, WHERE was it getting the signal to show RPM'S then??
Just been through the tone wheel saga
8 hours of work to change
Speaking as a mechanic from the seventies, I don't know how you guys cope with this stuff today.
Not well. There is a mechanic shortage.
Another mechanic from the 70s here. Who would want to work on this pos ? Nothing about it looks or seems easy to work on. So much to go wrong .
@@PatHelbert Agree
@@swamp-yankeewell depends on where you are located.
the more failure points the more gravy for dealerships. That said mechanics never get paid enough thanks to greedy dealership owners.
I can’t imagine being a tech at a dealership and having to work on one of these. I really feel for those guys.
Yup it sucks.. there plagued with issues.. most of the time it resulted it pulling the cab.. nothing but headache engines
My local Chrysler dealership looks like a junkyard for Amazon delivery vans. If they can't competently fix those, I have no idea as to how they'd be able to work on one of these.
You are so right about this engine. This is one difficult diesel engine to work on. This is absolutely amazing.
They do not fix these engines. They just throw them away and make you buy a new one.
You're right, it sucks 😂
I'm sad to say I remember a time where 100k on a diesel was the break-in. Nowadays it's the breakout.
It's because the manufacturers chose the cheapest most destructive way to adhere to emission regulations. There's proof that dimpled pistons lower emissions and increase horsepower while increasing fuel economy by burning more of the diesel that is injected however this was discovered by an independent company. Why wasn't it discovered by one of the major manufacturers? One is since the corporate tax was lowered companies no longer have an incentive to spend money on R&D and use that as a write off. Two companies don't have an incentive to make their products last longer. The sooner a vehicle breaks down the sooner they can sell part to fix it and can charge you for the repairs, which is where most dealers actually make their money. Three this country was setup with a lack of public transportation, on purpose car companies lobbied congress back in the 20's to stop mass public transit systems, therefore we are stuck with needing a car if you want a job. So in the end the car manufacturers have a captive market which has no choice but to buy their products regardless of price all thanks to greed eliminating public transit.
I got over 700k miles on a 1980 Mercedes 240D . It was using a qt every 500 miles or so, and was really hard to start during the winter (even using the block heater). But it was still doing the job. Only thing that was every done to the engine besides oil changes, was valve adjustments every 50k, one timing chain replacement,one water pump, 2 vacuum pumps. The fuel pump and injectors were original (I always added 2 stroke oil or transmission fluid, or filtered used motor oil plus PowerService Diesel Kleen o the fuel at each fill up)
@The_Lincoln_Penny how much oil you put in the fuel? I put two gallons every time, wondering if it's too much.
@@The_Lincoln_Penny Yep. That OM616 and OM617 were some of the most reliable engines ever made. It's a shame you can't buy a new car with one of them in it. Thanks EPA.....
@@chrisroberts5099 I only used about 2 qts per tank when using motor oil. I tried using lager quantities per tank but I noticed a slight loss of power in my 240D . With the 240D having just 77hp , a loss of a couple of horses is noticeable. I never noticed the power loss in my 300D and 300SD (both were turbocharged) but I still stuck with 2qts max. The injector pump needs just enough oil to make up for the lack lubricity caused by ultra low sulfur fuel.
Thanks for doing another one of these. I've had a 2nd gen one from 2016 which has a reputation for being a mechanical nightmare. I was "taken" by my local dealership for $5800 dollars because they claimed I had a completely contaminated fuel system and a 100% clogged fuel filter housing that caused it. They originally quoted me $15k for the repair, and my warranty repair was denied because they said the filter situation was "negligence." I literally owned the truck 10 weeks and was still on the shakedown of ownership with it. I brought it into them specifically telling them "I can't hear the fuel pump priming from the tank, start there." The day I picked it up after 3 months of back-and-forth with them, they replaced the lift pump, the filter housing, the high pressure pump and the fuse panel under the hood which is notorious for fuel pump relay failure, and a battery for the previously mentioned $5800. The truck still wouldn't start and I had it towed out of there fuming. Fast forward 13 months, a couple complaints to FCA in Detroit, the BBB, my local news channels, and just asking fellow forum people - my neighbor who works on diesels and heavy equipment for over 40 years had my Ram running in 30 minutes. Turns out the problem the entire time was *one* broken wire from the now new fuse panel (TIPM) to the fuel pump. $7 dollars worth of wire. These engines when they work are pretty amazing but like all emissions diesels - the EPA compromised their longevity and reliability - and ultimately the reputations of the designers and manufacturers by forcing gas-engine technology on an engine never intended to eat it's own s**t back down the intake. Since I live in a diesel-emissions exempt state and farm county, a delete was my first thought, but ultimately I went with an aftermarket tune that simply shut off all the parts that kill these engines. Additionally I added an oil catch-can on the PCV side of the system as well just as a precaution. I turned 110k miles yesterday and it's been solid ever since, though I hope I stopped the carnage before it became your next teardown video. :D
I think someone was wheeling with this one at an angle and starved the lower end for oil not a dry sump or no baffles in there
Sean, you’re a fan of this channel too, bro! Right on!
@@travisp11 If I lived near there, I'd work for that guy in a heartbeat.
Who did they have working on your car if they couldn't diagnose the problem?
@@android584 This was a legit Dodge dealer .. and their tech was literally just out of UTI. I was a dealer mechanic for years, and I could see the ineptitude on his face when I came to pick it up and it wouldn't start.
Would really love to see a 3rd Gen 3.0 Eco diesel teardown.. One of the big selling points of the 3rd Gen was it was supposed to have 80% different new parts to improve the problems the 2nd gen had. I hope you can find one so we can see any differences!
80% new junk perhaps. I’m curious too. A friend of mine recently bought one of these after his first year 6.7 dodge was a continuous nightmare. He’s just a glutton for punishment I guess.
I had a 2019 grand cherokee , 75000 km and the crank shaft bearing has gone ! Precise official dealers maintenance but nothing 20000€ was the budget for repair from jeep official , the car has been disassembled and sold in pieces ! Totally unacceptable situation
@@swamp-yankee lol "a friend..." liar
There is NO improving ANYTHING until they are allowed to take the tailpipe back out of the intake. There's NOTHING that "new parts" are going fix when the engine is forced to breathe 25% of it's incoming air from out of the exhaust pipe. It's the bullshit emissions systems that are KILLING diesel engines, and WILL CONTINUE to do so until they are removed. Period.
Im on my 3rd eco diesel. I've had gen 1, 2 and now 3. I've had zero problems with my gen 3 up to 70K miles. Gen 1 was a nightmare. Still have it in my wife's 2015 WK. I was told by a friend that works at Stellantis that the Gen 1 was like frankenstein. They took a reliable Italian made engine and bolted on all the USA emissions crap. The Gen 3 was designed with all the emissions stuff in mind up front.
As a long-time diesel owner (and rebuilder) the EPA regulations for diesel engines seem to be almost expressly designed to cause the economic and mechanical failure of diesel engines. They make them run too cold to be powerful or efficient AND cause engines to self-destruct at less than 1/4 life of similar older engines. If I didn't have good older diesel equipment I would be looking for gas to avoid the higher cost of ownership that now accompanies these neutered POS's
I am sure my son will keep our equipment as long as we can buy or make parts
I agree, I own 3 Cummins, 2- 24 valve, 1 12, and the 6.4 Ford Powerstroke that has a similar reputation to these Ecodiesels. My PS has 323,000 without any trouble except starter. Of course it was deleted when nearly new. These new ones can be made to live, but these EGR systems are choking and destroying these diesels and must be removed.
@@rondyechannel1399 The fine for me personally(as the tech) is 50k and for the business much more if we get caught deleting
I would love to build the newer diesels to there capability BUT I can't afford to take the risk
I remember when someone with this engine on a ram called it "tried and true italian deasel" my eyes went so wide
He wasn't wrong in a way, but maybe not about these particular engines. In the 90's-early 2000's when I was still living in Europe I've owned 3 VM Motori turbodiesel Alfas, 2x 2.0 liters and 1x 2.5L. These were indirect-injected, pushrod, timing-geared (no timing belt or chain) engines, before diesel emissions were a thing (I think one of them might've had a cat, but nothing more). They were beyond reliable, one of them had almost 400k when I sold the engine out of a rusty car, so yes, VM Motori CAN make a reliable diesel engine, but this V6 definitely ain't one.
“Deasel”? Seriously lmao
But this could be his experience. While i have heard of these engines blowing the people i know wi5h them consider them to be not only brilliant engined, but brilliant cars( Grand Cherokee). I had one but bailed out while it was going well some with over 400000ks
@@raoulrr True. Those engines of VM were bullitproof.
Most stuff from Italy IS junk
850 views in 7 minutes......
You are a bonafide superstar Eric.
Actually he's a RUclips sensation 😮
It's like automotive dopamine seeing these modern engines torn apart
As a depressed person u look forward to your videos every week. Thank you
I feel for you. I'm there but it's not like it used to be when I was using. Definitely don't miss those years.
Keep your head up. It always gets better, even when it feels like it can't. 🙂
Be Encourage that you will overcome this!!
Focus on the straight line
I wish you strength and please know that tomorrow will be the first day of the rest of your life.
I find the sound of the wrenches, cracking of bolts and sounds of the power impact soothing. Not sure why, but it’s relaxing to hear.
Yeah not sure what it is about a tear down video that is fun to watch. His just a normal guy humor and knowledge makes for a great video.
Most of the issues with this engine are caused by the emission systems. Diesels are meant to run much cooler but the mandates for "cleaner" vehicles takes all the byproduct and force feed it back to the engine. When you combine that with the fact that many people do not understand the necessity and frequency of regular maintenance, you have failure on a large scale. I have a 1st gen 2014 ecodiesel with 200,000 miles. It has failed twice and both were strictly related to emissions. Once you take care of that problem the issues go away.
Finally a logical unemotional commentary. Its the emisions not the diesel. Diesel run over a million miles. Look at the 18 wheelers.
Can't believe it failed TWICE on you! The first time it was the engines fault, the second time your fault for still owning the vehicle. ( guess I would think if it got a new motor it should run a long time)
Emissions controls destroyed the legendary durability and reliability of diesels.
Goes to show how nasty diesel engines are in the first place when you have to do all this to be meeting the standard.
@@scott8919 Next Up: Ignoring emissions standards because those John Deer fellers caught on already.
@@scott8919 Ok, Karen
@@OffTheBeatenPath_How is he a Karen? He not wrong, it’s true that diesel engines produce a lot of nasty pollutants into the air and why they have so much complex emissions control devices.
Diesel engine is nearly 50% efficient. Gasoline engine is 15% efficient.
I just spit my beer when you called the oil pump "the bearing pump". Always entertaining.
Yes a person might just think Eric accidentally said the wrong term until you think a bit about the situation.
Well in truth I guess that's what it is. A slip of the tongue speaks the truth!!
I have been garage DIY wrenching for most of my 70 years. I have rounded off many, but never broken a single socket, (even those from Pennsylvania)! And you did it more than once!
Kudos to you!
One more item off my bucket list.
You must live in one of those fair weather states or just pick and choose your battles, I have broke all brands of sockets in the last 25 or so years. But to be clear he didn't break sockets,he was using a ½ to ⅜ adapters and that's what failed.
My sockets date back to the lae 60's Thorsen never broke one .
It's really common to break adapter reducers.
@@quicksilver8180 I have busted a number of 3/8 tool to 1/2 socket adaptors when i used them with my little 3/8 DeWalt 20volt impact driver. So far the Husky adaptors i got to replace the DeWalt adaptors have worked nicely.
I do recall breaking the entire end off a 3/8 ratchet tool once without even using a cheater pipe...
Well, than you haven't tried hard enough....
I guess I caught Luigi on a good day. I have a 2017 EcoDiesel Ram, completely stock, I've got 134,000 mi on it, tow my camper everywhere, get twice the fuel mileage of my friends Silverado pickup.
The way I look at ill save 7k a year on fuel went from 7-10 to 18-23 pulling my trailer. I have 2022 Rebel no complaints yet
This is more common than the bad stories.
Lots of improvements in the second and third generation of these engines. The problem I see is people do not get them up to temperature. It should be used for hauling more than short trips.
Agree with that 100%. My wife drove one and constant problems, rarely was getting it on highway.
I so look forward to your teardown/autotopsy videos. They remind me of my younger days. It's really refreshing to see a genuine person doing genuine things that he genuinely enjoys. Keep it up 👍
Well said!
I'm on my second 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 3.0 Ecodiesel... it's running just fine... I clobbered a deer with the first one at 180,000 miles...had zero Ecodiesel issues.... my #2 Grand Cherokee also has zero issues....I just keep the oil changes up to date...no extended intervals... Shell Rotella T6 5W -40 and don't use it as a heavy tow vehicle...and no tuners...all stock.
What's stock drain interval? Thanks for sharing.
T6 is 5w40, not 15w40
@@benzlover55well. A wee bit of research show Shell makes that in 0W-40, 5W-40, 15W-40 and 10W-30.
One lucky guy!
@@ebutuoyebutouy interesting, I've only seen the 5w40 variant.
Great video! The correct response in the bathroom is, "I'm BEHIND on my paperwork!". Now I need to look up the first video on this engine.
I have 260,000km (161,000miles) on my EcoDiesel and only issue with the engine so far is a glow plug. Proper preventative maintenance and not abusing it makes a world of difference
220,000km here, had a real main seal leak which cost like 2k to repair, other than that, just regular wear and tear repairs for the 10 years I've owned it. It's actually been a great truck to me.
Yup have 125k on mine only had to replace a coolant temp sensor and regular oil changes
Luck has a lot to do with it… most of these junk eco diesels are unreliable and plagued with issues…
Get rid of EGR system right away, problem solved
Liar
I had a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Loved it. One of my favorite vehicles of all times. It took me to 22 different states as traveling around the northeast territory. 78,000? Something miles engines starting shaking something awful. Broken crank shaft. Jeep paid for that replacement. Haul bill's labor and parts. Just short of $15,000. They have to remove the engine from the bottom of the vehicle so it tied up a lift for so many days to get the parts they needed to repair. So that went towards the billing too. I drove the wheel off it again until it dropped the second crank shaft around 152,000. We sold it with a blown engine. It still ran and moved. With alot of pedal lol.
It’s your personality that makes this channel great! You take a boring yet informative subject and make it highly entertaining!
If Adam Sandler had a son who was a great mechanic
So I did a water pump and serpentine belt on one back in November. Water pump was leaking and the belt was shredded. Little did I know the thrust bearing was worn out and installing a new belt would cause the crank to fall a bit and wallar out the rear main seal and cause a severe oil leak.
I've told my advisor I refuse to work on these engines when they come in on trade. The water pump, with labor is over $2500.
Huh?? The thrust bearing controls FORE and AFT movement of the crank. NOT up and down movement, and would NOT "wallar out the rear main seal".
And even if it DID, a serpentine belt would NOT EVER hold a crankshaft up, and keep it from "wallaring" a front OR rear main seal out. NO way, NO how.... 😒
DON'T make bullshit up, because someone smarter than you will ALWAYS call you out on it.
Edit: Also, if you told your "advisor" that you "refuse" to work on certain vehicles, you'd be FIRED on the SPOT. 💯%
If I was your adviser, I'd have walked you OUT the door just for that bullshit story that you just told. If you think that COULD actually happen, I wouldn't want you TOUCHING ANY vehicle that came into my shop.
@@davelowetsSettle down Dave. How do you know the belt tension wasn't keeping the crankshaft from slipping back?
A difficult but very interesting teardown. Very much enjoyed it. The soot from the EGR emissions though is just scary to think that’s going back into the intake.
Imagine what it does to your lungs when you breathe it
Almost want to have some means of settling it out?
It would be nice to take the EGR flow from downstream of the DPF so it is soot free. Unfortunately that's more complicated to do, most diesels use the turbo backpressure to force the EGR gas back into the intake, if you want to take it from downstream of the DPF you need a throttle in the intake and other stuff.
I had one of these in a 2015 1500 RAM I deleted it when it had 28k on it because I could not keep it out of the dealership. It kept plugging up the Manifold Air Pressure sensor located at the back of the intake manifold. After it was deleted I would change the water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt and all the o-rings involved with the water pump every 90k miles. I put 385k on that engine and it was perfect. At around 250k the front end was SHOT and got completely replaced. When I got rid of it it was still getting 23-27 MPG on 33" michelin ATX's. It was a good truck. I ran Lubrimoly toptec 4200 oil with 1 qt Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. Truck never went over 8k on an oil change.
I like your name and that you like diesels.... I was thinking about buying one of these new and getting rid of all that after treatment stuff right away
@@wapiti4680 I see you when old school Indian with you Elk obsession. Very nice. You caught me at my computer. By the time I bought my Ecodiesel I was very financially independent. If you're not flush with cash or not crazy about parting with it to fix a truck I wouldn't own ANY of the new diesels outside of the factory warranty. It could be inviting financial disaster. Be careful. They are expensive to fix. It was a great truck, but I'm not sure my results were typical.
I hope you remembered to apply for your Colorado Elk preference point if that's where you hunt.
Take care.
I'm surprised you only have 307,000 subscribers. Simple, straightforward, honest and interesting.
Those emissions controls are saving the environment with all of the cars they cause to be thrown away.
It's all part of the plan.
Let's be less cynical here. 90% of car parts are recycled. Cars are one of the most if not the most recycled items in the modern world. One day it could be Jeep, a week later it could be bearing case for your chest of drawers
I love that Adam sandlerhas a side hustle tearing down engines. So cool.
So surprised I haven't seen more "Adam Sandler Remarks."
I enjoy the running commentary but keep seeing Adam Sandler and "It's Ok."
LOL
Not even close...
Had a 2014 JGC, just loved the power and fuel economy, 36mpg with average driving but the emission equipment was always failing, DEF injector, particulate matter filter, Cat, etc. Over the first 4 years, every time it would go into service, it would come back getting less fuel mileage to the point it was down to 20mpg on the hwy. When the check engine light would come on, we would take it in for service, pick it up in a couple of days and driving home, the engine light would come on again. Eventually the "Engine Regen" would come on every three or four days. We were in the shop so many times over 4 years that the dealership that sold us the JGC refused to do any more service on it. Chrysler's solution was to have us travel 30 miles to another dealership for service. The final straw was in 2023 when the vehicle went into limp mode when we were 50 miles from anywhere. Took us an hour and a half to get to the nearest small town. Service found that the whole top of the engine was full of carbon slag that looked like wet coffee grounds. The tech told us that Jeep had reprogrammed the engine over time to meet emissions, that it was running too cool and not burning off all the carbon as well as completely decimating out fuel mileage. A friend of mine bought a 2015 but removed ALL the emission equipment and had the computer flashed. He has never had any problems and gets almost 50 miles to the gallon. The emission control equipment on vehicles is a farce and lie put out by environmentalists. You tell me, is is better to double your fuel mileage and save 50% on emissions or have the equipment that saves 10% on emissions, lowers fuel mileage and is always breaking down?
It is a fair point but emissions are not a constant thing, depending on engine load and other variables the mix of chemicals being emitted can vary widely.
@@the1stvendettaJust as they can vary widely with emission control. You can get a constant 50+mpg average without emission equipment. I went from 36mpg to 20mpg over 4 years with it. Sounds like the environmental controls are what is most inconsistent. I thought about removing all the emission crap, researched it very heavy for quite a while but decided to just give up. Australia has the exact same JGC ecodiesel without all the emission equipment and owners there have told me they get a consistent 22km/l, which is over 50mpg. The whole environmental thing is a scam to make the vehicles cost more and to keep fuel prices up.
Jeep and Ram both reflash their ECUs all the time to try to stay in compliance without considering what telling the right equipment to perform in the wrong envelope is doing to the engine. While it probably makes it run "Cleaner", in the long run it's burning more fuel to do the same work less efficiently and emitting more than when it was new.
That mpg is impressive, I hit 50 mpg in my 2012 2.0 Diesel passat. To see that a 3 liter can pull it off is something else
@@DarkAttack14I agree. The engine is very efficient minus the emission equipment. I was getting 36 mpg around my small town with everything working against fuel economy. So 45 - 50mpg without it, especially on open road is not that far fetched. On one trip from Daytona beach to Syracuse, NY, I filled up before I left, got fuel in Roanoke, Va. Drove around Syracuse for 4 days, filled up and drove South. Filled up again in Charlotte, NC and made it all the way back to Daytona with almost a 3rd of a tank left.
Just driving my 1997 Camry. Original engine, original transmission. Literaly no problems. 27 mpg highway, ~22mpg city.
302,700 miles. Spent 30 minutes changing the spark plugs a week before posting this comment.
Simple. Reliable. Fuel efficient enough. Has saved me, and my father who owned it before me, boatloads in repairs that other brands would need by now.
Similar story with my 1999 Honda Accord with 2.3l 4 cylinder. Love this car.
@@paulbunyon6324 Can't kill em!
Gotta love it!
Sold a 04 corolla with over 500k a couple years ago. Ran like a dream, still regret selling it
Is it diesel camry?
@@DeMonisererno
I have owned a 2016 jeep grand Cherokee with the 3 L ecodiesel since new. Currently have 96,000 miles on the vehicle. It has gone through some re-flashes and some other fuel system warranty items but overall the vehicle has been very reliable. I do all of my own maintenance including Amsoil synthetic and fuel filter changes every time the oil gets done. An unfortunate dealer (corporate) experience was two out of the three bolts that connect the catalytic converter to the downpipe had sheared off and they would not fix them under warranty. Five hours later underneath the vehicle, I replaced it with OEM parts. Even though I have the extended emissions warranty through FCA, they claimed those parts were not covered. It became an argument, because I said they were part of the exhaust system, am I wrong? Are the bolts that connect the catalytic converter to the downpipe part of the braking system? Please read through the sarcasm. No more FCA products for me ever.
Part of exhaust
LIVE from Importapart St Louis it's SATURDAY NIGHT !!!
Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrssssssssss Johnny!!!
This engine went to 0 rpm at ludicrous speed.
the rod cap was literally dark helmet after crashing into the control panel
LOL!!!!!!!! GREAT REFERENCE
As someone whos a mechanic and due to skinny arms and dry skin ive got a hard time exerting enough force on electrical connectors ive got a few tips.
#1 push the connector in or together before depressing the tab. This works a lot better than one would think.
#2 buy a $15 pick set. Theres very few connectors i cant get apart by basically back picking the tab itself.
#3 on super stubborn ones mist with a little water or in extreme cases rubber care or ome kind of armor all type product. Remember your spraying on the outside where most connectors are designed to keep out much more water than a mist bottle can do.
On ram front and rear bumper harness i douche the outside completly clean with water before opening. Ihad to break more one and replace it before discovering this
This is why I still have my good old WJ 4.7L V8, easy to work with and the engine has never failed. I change the oil and filter every 5000 km and only use 95 grade RON fuel. With its HD242 center transfer case, I just love it,
That is also garbage, should have got the 4.0L
Had a friend that bought a new ‘14 JGC with one of these engines in it. “Cool!” I thought. Less than a year later I was real surprised to hear he got rid of it. Asked why; he was nervous about the motor long term. Ran fine, no problems, just didn’t like some things about it. I was surprised and didn’t really understand. I guess now I do…
My guess (because it is fun to guess) is that the reason you didn't see much material around the upper parts of the engine was that the failure was relatively quick. Piston / bearing failure possibly loosened first and spun hard making a lot of heat, which contributed to the crank bearing failure, and the rod cap released and probably wedged really quickly, within a couple of rotations. That is why there isn't that much in the way to flailing damage and why there wasn't that much scrap metal and forbidden glitter anywhere except in the pan.
What a packaging nightmare!
I work on these motors all the time as a diesel tech. The little coolant around the egr cooler is definitely an indication of them leaking. A lot of time you'll see it as an external leak on the exhaust side (not where coolant is supposed to be). I used to do coolers a lot, but now they are under a recall. I also used to do fuel systems a lot, timing failures, front cover leaks, intake manifolds, dpfs, tons of def issues (pumps, injectors, nox sensors) and a couple motors. The thing that gets me, is these motors don't even run as good as other similar motors. The 3.0 tdi runs better, the titan xd runs better, the baby "D" uramax runs better. These also have drivetrain issues with the diff and the transmission, tons of electrical issues. They are laggy turds with lazy transmissions, and no top end. I drove a lot of diesels and these are the worst.
My friend absolutely loves his 'minimax', only recurring issue was the dpf sensor. It ended up being cheaper to delete it than replacing it twice per year.
@hydrocarbon8272 I really like the baby D too. I'd never advocate deleting trucks, but just saying about 80% of all repairs I do on trucks is emissions sensors, or emissions related ;)
You guys realize the baby duramax is literally a VM motor rebranded, lol
@smotpoker15 I'm aware it is also an Italian engine, it is different though. The 7.3 powerstroke and the 6.4 powerstroke were both made by international, yet one sucks and one is great. A lot of it is dodges antiquated electrical and shitty build quality. The worst part of a 6.7 cummins is the dodge that its bolted to.
Edit to add, the engine was designed in Italy, but it was manufactured by GM. The eco diesel was designed and manufactured by VM
In other words, these are complete GARBAGE.....
🗑 👈 - Place engine here
bought my 15 3.0 Eco at 110k, did the TSB just in time on the EGR cooler which was leaking, soon had the DEF sensor fail and had to rig up a push button start for a bit until it got a tune then lost the $20 crank reluctor wheel which just meant time to add a deeper trans pan time. Added intercooler pipes and cold air intake from AFE and ever since the delete and tune its been a great truck, oil changes at 10k, fuel filter every 20k and it gets 30 mpg still goin strong at 180k now. Getting ready to do the crank reluctor wheel again and swap trans fluid at 200k, still need to replace the intake from the 110k of emissions fueled soot build up too. If I had to pay labor I would get another truck, rumor has it turbo or engine replacement need to take the cab off.
I had a 2018 grand cherokee diesel and at 17k miles had $7000 of warranty repairs of replacing the exhaust manifold that blew. After that I purchased the Mopar extended warranty since I didn't trust the vehicle. At 37k miles the whole exhaust system blew up and was $11k in repairs that was covered under the extended warranty. After that I sold the jeep to carmax and bought a subaru
i love the little skits you do with your coworkers
I completely lost it when the guy in the crapper got hit with flying parts! Off the graph!😆
I was really impressed the way your office was laid out. It was so clean, you could get a lot of work done. You should keep the fridge and microwave in there too and serve lunch.
I find it funny you uploaded this today. I saw a white dodge eco diesel being put on a tow truck steaming.
I used to work in the auto service business in the 80's & 90's -- and all the Jeep Cherokees that came in ALWAYS had expensive repair/maintenance bills. Stuff that would last 4 times as long in other cars would have to be replaced or would breakdown. They were always walking out with $800-$1000 bills when just coming in for an oil change & tire rotation. The vehicles were very nice otherwise, with good performance, great utility, nice style & comfort, it was just the maintenance that would wind up really tragic. I would never buy one of their vehicles -- even the old Wranglers had more problems than you would expect.
With all your humor I am really entertained watching you dismantle engines. Standing on a breaker bar trying to rotate an engine! Dude you're going to get hurt if something should snap. Throwing parts across the shop is my favorite. My wife can sit and watch you dismantle an engine. We love your RUclips channel. Stay safe and see you next time!
The problem is taking the thing to Jiffy Lube or anywhere like that where they get it out of the service bay ASAP, and not giving enough time for the oil to make it into the pan. I believe there's a TSB about this that Fiat Chrysler released, but only a dealership would be aware of this. This is why I change my own oil, and have 170k of reliable operation, other than the EGR cooler recall which caused the truck to sit at the dealer for a month while waiting for the part!
My father's wisdom still holds true regarding Dodge, "They build a good engine, it's everything around it that falls apart!" Tony didn't change a thing!
I read a story about 3 yrs ago of a person in South Africa that had one of these Jeeps with the eco diesel. Well he had the same problem with the main bearings but was not damaged to the point that he could not re-build it. He had it all taken apart and had all of the new parts but was unable to get main bearings for the engine. Apparently there were not produced for the public and if you wanted to have the engine rebuilt you would have to buy a short block (talk about up selling) Eventually he was able to find a bearing manufacturer that would build main bearing for this engine. It was repaired and then put for sale. Talk about poor customer service
🎩 hats off to Eric for keeping a lot of cars on the road with all the parts he makes available & helping people out with cheap vehicles & Keeping all the good miatas. In his collection. @ the end of the year he should be awarded an environmental. Award for. Recycling 😂😂
You’re absolutely right, you should never delete one of these diesels. Because that would necessitate owning one!
I currently have a 2015 BMW X5 335d with M package, 52K miles in the shop for a similar sounding issue. It is not locked up, just sounds like a rod(s) knocking. We also have an extended 3rd party warranty. It was in the shop for repairs late FEB, early MAR for EGR & SCR recalls. An injector was replaced and some front chassis parts. Let’s see what the diag is this coming week. The car spent half its life in Germany and the second half in TX’s infamous inferno heat. Love your channel. Learn so much from it.
9:01 I’m really glad you edit “penetrator” in every video, please don’t stop
Dislodged - Def. The act of being banned from your local Elks Lodge for to many dad jokes.
I always thought it meant that you were DIssed so hard, that it stuck inside your mind forever.
Engineers never have a clear answer towards "Lifetime"
Same schooling as politicians apparently.
Because it’s not the engineers it’s the accountants and the marketing people who say that lifetime BS
Lifetime of the warranty
For FCA a lifetime is 80-100k miles
Lifetime of vehicle is defined by the EPA, UAW, and UAIC. 3 years or 36 months for all vehicles below 3/4 ton trucks. 50k for everything else. Has been this way since 2003.
I don’t know if he addressed it but a lot of the bearing failures in these engines were due to the wrong oil spec. In 2016 FCA changed the specification of oil for all eco diesel to help the oil film on the bearings. This engine being a 2014 ran for years on the old specification oil before it should have been changed over. There are a lot of examples of these engines doing well over 300k miles, the highest documented was about 450k.
I had 2016 JGC High Altitude. Ecodiesel. Bot it CPO with 6500 miles. Bought extended warranty ( it’s a Jeep) similar to Chrysler Care. Long Story short the total warranty claims through 2021 was $12,455.00. Of that $6600 were engine related. Melted harness, exhaust manifold separation, egr failure, thermostat , def failure and Cam lifter timing failure ( engine rebuild necessary). The last two years I towed a 5000lbs boat down and back to ( 2x) Florida. So about 5500 miles total towing. I loved the fit and finish of the Jeep and towed like a champ. My overall mileage average ( never reset) was 27mpg. Wanted to love this truck but reality set it over time. The engine rebuild happened with 4 months left on warranty. I did some research about ( Ram 1500… mostly farmers) ecodiesel. Found that ecodiesel was pretty good unless you towed with it. Italian ecodiesel was just not robust enough. Damn shame. Traded it in for a used 21 Landcruiser. … last of the Mohicans.
I have a suspicion.
You said it yourself, the top end of that engine was clean. It was immaculately clean. In a diesel engine you will never see an engine that clean in normal operation, not unless they were changing their oil every 100 miles. Diesel causes alot of soot loading in the oil, especially modern diesels with emissions. That’s why the oil turns black within a day of driving.
Only reason for the engine to be that clean inside is diesel fuel dilution in the oil. Diesel acts as a solvent which washes the engine. It also provides poor lubrication causing the damage to the bearings and piston skirts. This was likely a prolonged failure until the final seconds.
In this engines final moments, the worn main bearing spun. This immediately caused a full lack of lubrication to the corresponding rod bearing. The rod bearing was eaten away and the rod started knocking, the impact forces causing the one rod bolt to snap. The rod cap then hinged, bending and then breaking the second bolt. The rod cap fell between the block and crank where it immediately locked up the engine.
I will say though, contrary to one of your comments, this was likely an idle failure. The driver may have command started the car or started it and went inside while waiting for it to warm up. While idling that main spun, and it sat there knocking until the rod cap let go. If it would have been any appreciable rpm, it would have just flung the rod and cap out the block. The operator probably came out and the car had stopped running, wouldn’t restart. Probably towed it to a dealer that pulled the pan and saw the damage.
@@davecrupel2817 I guess my only question is why you’re asking about a question 🤣
Huh??
Not a chance this engine came apart at an idle. All the bluing evidence of heat on the crank and rods says this thing came apart at speed. It's obvious that the rod has broken because it seized to the crank and then was snapped off when the crank kept rotating.
If the rod would have seized with the engine at an idle, it would have simply stalled the engine, as it wouldn't have had enough power to snap the rod off like that.
The rod snapped at speed with some inertia behind it from the quickly rotating engine. The broken rod bolt is definitely evidence that the rod seized to the crank, and then was twisted off with much more force that what would have been if it were idling.
Sure engines can toss rods at an idle, but when it happens at that low of an engine speed, the broken rod looks way different. It doesn't seize to the crank journal and twist the rod off the big end like we see here. When it breaks at an idle, it's usually the cap cracking or the rod is broken somewhere other than being twisted off the crank... such as it being broken in the beam somewhere from a crack or stress riser that finally gave way.
I had a 500+ C.I. big block throw 2 rods at 7200 RPM's, and it did NOT punch a hole in the block, or EVEN the oil pan for that matter.
An engine does not always poke holes thru the block or pan when it chucks rods. And usually not at an idle.
@aregeebee201 The low oil pressure light in most vehicles usually only comes on when the sending unit sees about 2-3psi. Much of the damage in that engine could have occurred before the light even came on, and once it did, it could have been all over in seconds before the driver even noticed it.
When my big block chucked 2 rods, it STILL made enough oil pressure when cranking it afterwards to register 5 or so psi on my mechanical oil pressure guage. More than enough to keep an idiot light on a dash from even coming on at all.
This engine is what convinced me to leave the dealership and go into automotive testing. Best decision I ever made, and I've never looked back.
When the journal diameter gets increased to create bearing surface, the surface speed between the crank and bearing increases. My 3.0 Duramax has much wider bearings since it's an inline so the journals are smaller in diameter. An Ecodiesel spinning 2k rpm has the same bearing surface speed as my 3.0 Dmax spinning at 3k.
“A fine city in Pennsylvania”
….A socket from Pittsburgh 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Made from the finest Chinesium
"Bearing pump." ... Best unexpected giggle I had for months. Thanks.
Ha! I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee with this motor! 140K miles on it right now. Had holes melt through the intake manifold at 135. Luckily my brother in law is a master diesel mechanic and was able to replace it. It then had DEF issues and no dealer was able to figure it out. DEF pump replaced and it is no running well again but for how long. It honestly has been a great vehicle.
I kept the intake manifold as a souvenir.
I own a 2018 Ram that I bought new with one of these engines. People ask me what I think of it, and the answer is always, "I like mine, but I wouldn't recommend getting one."
On the fuel cost, I need diesel fuel to be no more than $0.70/gallon higher than gas to have better fuel cost than a Hemi powered truck. I had that for about my first year of ownership and after that it's rarely been close. Over its life this truck has cost me money on fuel.
I've had to put an EGR cooler on it but overall it's not a "bad" truck. With the insane prices of vehicles, I'm planning to hang on to it.
Thanks for the video Eric.
@nathanwoods758 delete it I did mine and its been great I did it at 60,000 km
The recirculation of the exhaust is a horrible thing to do to an engine I think if you doubled down on the oil changes it might survive longer
Very interesting and informative video. Due to the wear present on the majority of surfaces, I would say that the oil quality was not good enough for the job. Piston side skirt wear and camshaft bearing wear were dead giveaways to the lack of proper lubrication. Also, the coolant channels were corroded and crankcase breather was clogged which are more signs of poor maintenance. The impressive things about this engine, were the robustness of the build, the turbocharger, and the timing gear. These are major problem areas of many engines, and this engine passed that test with flying colors. I came away from this teardown thinking that this is a robust and good engine, but that one must be careful about oil change intervals.
I had no issues with my Eco diesel. Good power and fantastic MPG. Really wish we had more diesel engines as options here. Seeing a lot of these engines have issues I sold mine as soon as the dealer warranty was up. Could have used a second turbo but once it got off the line the transmission had plenty of gears.
If I had to guess what went wrong in this motor ...I'd say that for whatever reason, the Main Bearing on that journal spun a little, blocking off the Oil supply to that failed Rod. Thanks for the teardown Eric! Always enjoy watching them!
'why do these always fail?' Duh! You try going through your entire life being forced to eat your own excrement ! and see how successful you are.
It's about like that, but also like running a marathon and trying to breather through a straw with the EGR and carbon buidup inside the intake. I deleted mine and replaced the intake manifold very early in it life.
The Eco Diesel is a great engine without all that DEF and emissions BS. Those motors are lasting over 500k miles in Europe and Canada.
Diesel is dead booster.
TY sir
Yeah I’m deleting mine
@@robjacobs3369 Yeah I don’t blame you. The government screws everything up. I think I read a article somewhere and there is a compound turbo Eco Diesel that puts pushing 400HP and 600 ft Lbs torque at the wheels. That’s pretty good for a half ton with a 8spd auto. That would pull anything with easy for a half ton.
310,000 kms om my 2014 Ram, so they don't ALL fail. Proper maintenance is everything on these engines.
What fuel additive are you using? I just bought a 2021 EcoDiesel with 50K mikes on it. I’m going with Hot Shot Secrets both fuel additives and oil.
I only use winter diesel additive to prevent gelling, and nothing in the oil. Only Rotella T6 oil. Some good Ecodiesel forums out there with good maintenance advice.
@@bobstaff419 thanks for the reply. I decide to do some extra additive wise, since I didn’t have it from new.
How are the deleted ones running?
@@LumbrJck I have a 2015 Ram Eco...I had hell out of it starting at about 45-50K miles. I deleted it and with the exception of a boost sensor it has been flawless since. Now at 203,000 miles.
I had a jeep wrangler JK with a factory fitted 2.8L VM Motori diesel engine, and engine wise it was bulletproof.
220,000km on the clock when it left my hands and it didn't have a hiccup. The same cant be said for all the other jeep Chrysler parts around it.
My old man has this 3.0L VM Motori diesel in his 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee and its served him well so far. (Had it since new)
Please don't change a THING you do! And keep doing the things you do, and say, especially your little quips and humorous comments.eg. If I was to turn on your latest episode and did NOT hear " The first thing I'm going to do is see if this thing will turn over", I would be SO disappointed and for sure a little confused, and maybe very uncomfortable about possible other changes coming. When Elvis had a hit song he sang it the same way with the same band and we loved hearing it all again. Thank you.. thank you very much! :)
The Ecodiesel’s original design was for applications with none of the consumer EPA-type regulations. This is why those who have “deleted” their ecodiesels often see improved reliability.
But despite the reputation for short life, there are actually many owners with many miles and relatively little trouble.
And unsurprising, the most common issues are emissions related components (with DEF systems being the top component issue).
The other catastrophic failure is the hpfp- which is a major issue across most makers-
Bearing failures (particularly main bearings) are mostly connected to EGR and the soot then building up in the oil and crankcase. This also is an issue for the intake manifold- which literally gets blocked like an artery with heart disease. Again- emissions-related.
And finally- the infamous tone wheel failures- where the crank position sensor reads- the magnets delaminate- and there is no redesigned part…
"Owners who have deleted their ecodoesels OFTEN see improved reliability".....
No..
Owners who have deleted their ecodiesels WILL 100% see greatly improved reliabilty....
There, fixed it for you.
Dieselbros are like Saturday morning cartoon villains... "We could have ALL the money, if only we were allowed to cause widespread health problems! Those pesky, meddling EPA guys, they're worse than the FAA!"
Your EPA regulations are ridiculous in Europe se had almost 60% diesel from city cars to cabrios and people are not exactly dropping dead for it. It is just a protection for your auto industry masquerade as "safety" standard. Anyway this engine is not one of the best.
@@davelowets You obviously don't spend much time in any of the major social media groups or message boards for Ecodiesel owners. There are still significant failures with deleted Ecodiesels - overall it does significantly improve your odds of not having some of the major failures. But it does not make these engines bulletproof, nor foolproof.
I own a 94 silverado with a 350 tbi with almost 220k miles. I think I’ll just hold on to it till it finally goes. Idk when that will be but I’m scared to own anything new.
I'm in the same boat with you. I have a '96 powerstroke. I'm terrified of buying a newer truck.
@@texasslingleadsomtingwong8751 you should be able to get well over 500k miles on that engine. No worries!
Even to the casual observer the EPA regulations that are targeted specifically at diesels seem to be almost expressly designed to cause the failure of diesel engines as an alternative to gasoline-fueled ICEs in the US market. Incredible cost to implement and maintain emissions equipment that when it fails (and it will since some of it is consumable) leads to decreased performance and possible serious mechanical failure.
It's almost like the EPA doesn't want "clean diesel" to be a thing by saddling both the manufacturers and consumers with unreasonable regulations, without which the environment would be just fine, and consumers would be enjoying highly efficient vehicles running on renewable fuels.
Instead we're told that the future is giant, heavy slugs of lithium ion ground poison on wheels, with a service life of several years, at which point most owners will throw the entire vehicle away.
We are being conned by our own government as well as the vehicle manufacturers. Everyone can see that the EPA at this point has outlived its usefulness as far as vehicles are concerned. The technology has already achieved the goals of pollution reduction as much as they reasonably could have, and at this point it appears that the EPA is pushing a political agenda that really doesn't make much sense, either to the environment or the consumer.
I agree that the diesel regulations are ridiculous. But I think most people have it wrong on Evs. An electric vehicle is mechanically very simple with few parts to go wrong and is virtually maintenance free. The only issue is the battery pack, but with the proper care (following recommended recharge intervals) the Lithium Ion battery cell(s) should last at least 15 years.
These children want you out of your car! Period.
gas and diesel have to meet the same emissions in the u.s. Euro 7 which comes out next year also make european diesels meet the same emissions as gas
@@JD-yx7be That's awful. Previously they had separate standards in Europe, which was smart. So this will now be the death of European diesels as well.
I owned a first gen Ecodiesel up until 2022. Had less than 60k on it before I sold it back to the dealer. I had it tuned, later deleted and never had 1 issue with it. I guess I was lucky. The thought of the CP4, DPF, regulations, cams, etc... led me to get rid of her. She was super fuel efficient unlike any other. We're talking 500-600 miles on a tank of fuel.
I've switched to the old 5.9l trucks 1 being a 1st gen and 2 a 3rd gen pre emissions. And altough I've spent a great deal of money I've got reliable trucks with parts readily available and easy to get.
The Ecodiesel if given time and refinement would be a great engine. It is light and powerful, but falls short in reliability. Which means literally spend the extra cash and get a cummins. Hell buy a powetstroke. But steer clear here 😢.
I'm from Australia, I have 2014 Eco Grand Cherokee with 87,000 miles from new. A TSB was bought out here to up grade the oil to 5W-40. I change the oil at 6,200 mile (10,000k). The only issue I've had is a "Service Electronic Throttle Control" warning on the EVIC which I traced to a clogged MAP sensor. I fitted a catch can @ 40,00 miles and I've no more problems, but I do clean the MAP sensor at every oil change.
The bit that worries me now is the Turbo coolant hose, the little one under the inlet manifold is 10yo and a lot of guys here have had issues around 110,000 miles
I love my GC but the cost of repairs now I'm retired worries me.
Thanks for a great video by the way..👍
These (and any diesel) give much better service if deleted or at least flashed with an emissions intact tune that turns off EGR. Alas, the EPA put a stop to all that, because failed engines don't emit NOX or CO2 and are more environmentally friendly than running engines 😆
The conspiracy theorist in me thinks diesels are under particular government scrutiny and regulation as they are efficient and the government wants all of us to be in EVs. It is notable that when a gas powered engine has an emissions system, the driver gets a check engine light and can keep driving. If a diesel has an emissions issue, the driver gets a check engine light and the countdown to rapid disablement of the vehicle begins.
Just something that makes me go hmm...
Imagine all the headaches trucking companies have…those engines have all of this crap installed also, even in the railroad industry they cant escape it.
No, heavy vehicles are still largely exempt for emissions, etc. That's because there is no better alternative where large outputs are required.
However, for smaller vehicles like where this engine came from, there is no logical reason why slow, inefficient, complicated and costly diesels shouldn't be required to meet the same standards as what other engine types need to meet.
@@johncoops6897 wrong the OTR industry has been dealing with this also since 2007 and it's even worse there. Imagine a 15 liter Cummins that eats it's egr cooler and turns itself into a bomb. Or a Def system that freezes up derating the engine trying to climb mountain. Oh it gets worse like regeneration fires that have killed drivers. The railroads saw the trouble that the OTR industry was having and basically stopped ordering anything new they are now rebuilding anything and everything possible to stay away from EGR which is on the current regulation. Those engines that were ordered when that egr cooler fails it tends to make a 450k pound locomotive into a flame thrower as it shatters oil and fuel everywhere on hot engine parts.
@@haroldbenton979 - yeah, but whatever. Why should diesel light vehicles be exempted from the emissions standards that other vehicles must comply with?
I am certainly not defending emissions laws, and in fact I don't believe in most of the climate crisis carp.
However, if it was a level playing field, then a diesel engine would make zero sense for passenger vehicles like this engine was installed in.
@johncoops6897 in a diesel engine unlike a car engine with EGR you end up with massive amounts of unburned carbon from the fuel. This fuel is holding a bigger problem. It's called sulphuric acid that there engines create as a byproduct of using egr. The sulphuric eats about everything and the carbon sandblasts it wearing out the valves and coolers. When they fail you get oil and coolant mixing instant massive problem.
@@haroldbenton979 - despite what the fanbois say, diesel engines are pretty much rubbish. Pointless, boring, expensive, noisy, unreliable, smelly things that are unsuitable for the pickup trucks that Americans think are the best kind of vehicle to drive to the local Wal-Mart to get the weekly shopping. 🤣
VM Motori Diesels are used in European Jeeps since the eighties. The light-duty diesels are known to wear and break early. Their boat diesels are fine.
had one in my 2012 wrangler.
220,000km when it left my hands and the only problem that little 2.8L gave me was a blown turbo hose.
The rest of the jeep was a disaster from new.
I have this engine in one of our pickup trucks. It works reasonably well. The only problem was the EGR cooler leak, which I caught early. The EGR cooler has been a problem on several brands of pickups up to tractor trailers. Diesels are different than gas engines. Both the Ecodiesel and the Cummins powered pickups we have, need fuel additives and an operating procedure different than gas engines. I have noticed that many people overrev the engines and shut the engines down while hot. Both behaviors will cause crankshaft and connecting rod issues. Any vehicle today is very expensive, and needs to be operated in a way to get the most longevity.
This engine reminds me of my rather frustrating experience with a Maxxforce 13 in a 2012 International dump truck. The engine itself designed and built originally by MAN was a great running quiet engine in Europe. But Navistar designed their own twin turbo , twin EGR, 4 radiator disaster for it to avoid going to DEF , like the others. They were a disaster , though I ran synthetic oil and went by the hour meter , and avoided idling. Helped a bit. I got more miles out of a 93 Chevy 1500 6.2 diesel than a supposedly million mile lasting 13L maxxforce .. lol
At the beginning of the air intake stroke, the piston is seized at the top of the cylinder by the carbon deposits.
The rod end cap and bearing would have had much greater forces to pull down piston free of the carbon deposits.
As a result, the cap end bearing would have experienced a lot of excess wear/fatigue, resulting in premature bearing failure, followed by cap bolt failure. The rate of bearing deterioration is amplified by the wrong oil type.
Everything is otherwise clean, suggesting good oil change intervals. The wear to the cam bearing surfaces, suggests the wrong oil type.
Unfortunately, for MY14 FCA called for 5w-30 and by MY16 a TSB was put out calling for Rotella T6 5w-40.
A friend almost bought a Ram with this in it, good thing he kept his old Toyota. Still running after a warranty frame replacement. Many people think this is a cummins, but it aint!
If he got a frame done it’s a keeper. Just gotta keep them oiled and drill out the barely existent stamped drain holes
I’ve seen first hand how amazingly terrible these engines are. The fuel economy is fantastic….. when it runs.
With the price premium, the expensive fuel, the poor performance, the excessive pollution, how is the fuel economy even relevant?
@@PistonAvatarGuy Have to look on the bright side!
How good would it be with no emissions control equipment?
Pretty good I bet
I suspect the fuel economy is even better when they don’t run.
@@mnije There is no bright side of diesel engines. Heck, just have a look at this thing's insides, so bright and shiny!
I had the 2015 Jeep GC with that engine. Loved it for towing and road trip. Did cross country drive and averaged 32mpg. Went downhill after the software update due to the settlement. Less power, more regens. Traded it in at 71k
I have 139,000 miles on a 2015 Big Horn Ecodiesel. I experienced many issues with the Turbo EGR Waterpump. The last major problem was the DEF SCR which caused the dreaded See dealer engine won’t start in 200 miles.
Lucky for me the EPA lawsuit covered most of the repairs. The diesel tech said that preventative maintenance is crucial. He recommended Hot Shot’s Extreme every 6,000 miles with oil change and to follow up with every fill up with one ounce of EDT with 20 gallons of Diesel. So far I haven’t noticed any Regeneron like before. I have noticed the better acceleration with using the Diesel Extreme. Could be it’s cleaning the fuel injectors and soot in the EGR.
Want to know why this guy has never down a tear down on a 3rd gen ecodiesel? Because they fixed all the problems.
i have ZERO problem with this engine had run 150K on it , and friend of mine already pass 260K . Now i am on latest version of ecodiesel with 120 k for 4 years >>> ZERO ISSUES , i do oilchange by myself every 10K km
It depends. You talking km or miles. Some would say, a diesel engine is only broken in at 100k km. At 120k or 150k km a diesel shouldn't have had any problems. That's expected.
A maintained diesel engine should run at least 250k to 300k. At 400k it is a reliable engine. Of course, it depends on what your expectations from a car are and what you would call 'relieable'.
@@momowas км , iam in canada
Why everyone talking about emissions? The EPA didn't regulate a weakass bottom end!
This was a fascinating tear down, but if I had one, I would seriously question my life choices if I attempted to fix anything major on it. It is insane how much crap is bolted onto that thing...
Love my ecodiesel. 30mpg and plenty of smiles per mile. Purchased used with 40,000 miles it now has 120,000 no troubles in 6 years. That said the first owner did get a new engine. I immediately did the upgrades. Wink. Plus larger capacity AFE oil pan. Amsoil 10w30 HDD non-epa oil with ceratec additive. Oil tested at every oil change when the OLM says to change. No early changes. Just use good oil.
If it dies. I will break even. It’s paid for and should last many more years. Every year is more money saved from a new truck payment.
Also wait 60-90 seconds before shut off. If on a trip when fueling up or using restroom I just let it idle. Let the oil flow and maintain temperature