I learned that lesson the hard way.used the new improved seal the parts store recommended. It lasted less than a hour.had to take motor out.dissemble. bottom of motor. pull out crank.the seal looked too small.put in a rope seal old one too.nobody really knew how to put one in.this was before the internet.found a older mechanic that knew about it.i. put it in and no leaks.i have the jeep over 20 years and no leak.another story for the trans and transfer case.
Love the editing and close up shots, bravo! :0) ... When I was Millwrighting we still used rope seals in some industrial equipment, the old style rope seals have some advantages in severe use environments.
@@tileman17 thanks, very difficult to do edits like that without music, silent cuts dont work. I'm not a great fan of the music but it mostly fits the subject and what I am aiming for (and is copyright free) so it is what I've used. If you are able to find some suitable creative commons music then please let me know! Cheers matt
Rope seals are good. For a split seal they are light years ahead of neoprene ones, in my opinion. They still were using them on the Holden V8. And that is an engine that produces considerably more power and revs than a jeep. But they have to be really deeply seated in the groove. And, most importantly, the excess bits of the seal which stick out after the seal has been crushed down,should be trimmed off, otherwise, the cap will not seat down fully on the block, and this is usually not noticed. Oil will leak out the crack, no matter how small, and most importantly, the cap will not be fully seated, possibly causing failure down the line. Here is a video on fitting such a seal to a Holden V8. I personally, wouldn't dimple the inner surface, but on a high revving, high output engine these engineers obviously found it necessary. But note the heavy steel bar of crankshaft diameter used with a big hammer to fully seat the seal. ruclips.net/video/kSQWlnvAIbI/видео.html
Matt, a first rate video on the NOS rope RMS & it's installation.This original design is more than adequate for the L-134 engine. With timely oil changes-using conventional oil-it is safe to say they will not leak.Good job!
I do know that the rope seal is made of hemp fiber. The A-7 Corsair II had a few seals that could be modern synthetic, rope or leather seals. A few aircraft at the end got rope or leather seals.. Airframes were chuffed to actually get to use them.
I think most of the bad seals are gone these days so dont worry about using a newer style seal, if you have a more worn/damaged crank sealing surface then maybe a rope seal is the way to go but if it's nice then a modern seal will be no problem ;)
On the weight discrepancy of the connecting rods...would you maybe want to measure the weight with the pistons and rings connected? Maybe put the lightest pistons on the heaviest rods before you begin grinding?
Bob, I think it was ebay again, felpro provide them as standard in their gasket kits but I dont know how they compare with the originals as I've never used them. I have ever heard of anyone having a problem them with them however?
@@Greendot319 check it, mercedes especially in models like W126 use good quality ropes/seals... they dont leak, and no tear like classic ones. I use them in russian UAZ to avoid leaks from engine block
This is fascinating. I have heard of a similar situation. When you have an Oldsmobile 455 and need a rear main seal, most car parts catalogs don't give you many options. However, a Ford 460 seal does fit, and car part catalogs have a much larger number of options.
Im not sure if you are still responding to older videos but i was wondering if it is necessary to remove the engine or if it es feasible to replace the old seal with the engine still mounted?
you have to lower the crank up to get the block seal in...this would be impossible with the engine still connected to the transmission...you would have also remove the front timing cover...this is one of those jobs you have to take the engine out and flip over to do correctly.
Excellent - very interesting! Don't mean to get ahead of you but I have a question about my recently rebuilt 134L. I plan to drop it in this spring and will be starting for the first time. Do I need to "pre-oil" the engine prior to start up, or will the assembly lube be sufficient until the oil pressure builds? I want to do it right but don't have a "pre-oiler" and don't want to buy one. Thanks a lot!
You do need to pre-oil it in my opinion and I will cover that in one of my coming videos however just to cover it all you need to do is get an oil can and pump oil down the oil filter supply line until it comes out the top of the oil gauge line and then you are good to go! Pre-oiling costs nothing and ensures your engine has oil from the start so you have nothing to lose but lots to gain if you dont do it ;) cheers matt
I do have a small fluid transfer pump and was wondering if I hook it up to the port in the block for the oil pressure gauge and pump a quart or two of oil in there, maybe that would get me there? It is not high pressure by any means, but it will move the oil. What do you think?
@@aboyandhisdog all you need to do is fill the line so the pressure doesnt matter. You could pour it in if you like! As long as it comes out the other end of the line e.g. the gauge line or the filter line then that means the gallery is full and your system is primed. Turn the engine over a few times to ensure the pump is primed too of you like. Cheers
Nice video, I’m fixing to put seals on a continental F140!!! Flathead 4 cylinder 👍🇺🇸
Thank you for telling me everything in detail :) I'm from Russia
Thanks for watching!
I learned that lesson the hard way.used the new improved seal the parts store recommended. It lasted less than a hour.had to take motor out.dissemble. bottom of motor. pull out crank.the seal looked too small.put in a rope seal old one too.nobody really knew how to put one in.this was before the internet.found a older mechanic that knew about it.i. put it in and no leaks.i have the jeep over 20 years and no leak.another story for the trans and transfer case.
I have never seen a rope seal installed, I'm sure it is now a lost art of installing one correctly. This was a good video!!!
Thanks for that I appreciate it, it's a simple process but rewarding when done properly ;)
Excellent series of videos. Please keep it up!
I helped my dad put those in a jaguar ss100 straight 6 many years ago, apparently he taught me the right way!
Awesome, did it leak??!
Greendot 319 it was oil tight while we had it, he sold it in the 90's tho.
Love the editing and close up shots, bravo! :0) ... When I was Millwrighting we still used rope seals in some industrial equipment, the old style rope seals have some advantages in severe use environments.
They suit the old applications they were designed for very well. Thanks for the comments on editing, I'll try and keep it up.
yes good editing good close-ups ,now just drop the music and its perfect, I just can't deal with bad editing music
@@tileman17 thanks, very difficult to do edits like that without music, silent cuts dont work. I'm not a great fan of the music but it mostly fits the subject and what I am aiming for (and is copyright free) so it is what I've used. If you are able to find some suitable creative commons music then please let me know! Cheers matt
@@tileman17 Music is a personal choice .. I liked it!
Rope seals are good. For a split seal they are light years ahead of neoprene ones, in my opinion.
They still were using them on the Holden V8. And that is an engine that produces considerably more power and revs than a jeep. But they have to be really deeply seated in the groove. And, most importantly, the excess bits of the seal which stick out after the seal has been crushed down,should be trimmed off, otherwise, the cap will not seat down fully on the block, and this is usually not noticed. Oil will leak out the crack, no matter how small, and most importantly, the cap will not be fully seated, possibly causing failure down the line.
Here is a video on fitting such a seal to a Holden V8. I personally, wouldn't dimple the inner surface, but on a high revving, high output engine these engineers obviously found it necessary. But note the heavy steel bar of crankshaft diameter used with a big hammer to fully seat the seal.
ruclips.net/video/kSQWlnvAIbI/видео.html
Great info many thanks!
Matt, a first rate video on the NOS rope RMS & it's installation.This original design is more than adequate for the L-134 engine.
With timely oil changes-using conventional oil-it is safe to say they will not leak.Good job!
Thanks much appreciated and good observations, they're a great seal, just need 5 minutes of work to fit properly!
I always put a little bit of sealer on the mating faces of the rope for extra guarantee
Rope seals are easy to install and have them not leak. I have done many of them
I do know that the rope seal is made of hemp fiber. The A-7 Corsair II had a few seals that could be modern synthetic, rope or leather seals. A few aircraft at the end got rope or leather seals.. Airframes were chuffed to actually get to use them.
Rope seals are typically the best
I have the rope in the 225 v6 engines and I like them also.
I bought a new rubber RMS on ebay that claimed to work. I will check tolerances as I'm pulling engine to work on things.
I think most of the bad seals are gone these days so dont worry about using a newer style seal, if you have a more worn/damaged crank sealing surface then maybe a rope seal is the way to go but if it's nice then a modern seal will be no problem ;)
A dab of Permatex #2 is good on the parting surfaces and rope seal ends.
Yes, I put a bit on ;)
I love the opening ok .ok ,hmm,WTF
They supposed to stick out a bit so they seal on corners
A truly excellent informative video 😊👍
Thanks much appreciated!
@@Greendot319 You're Welcome 😊
On the weight discrepancy of the connecting rods...would you maybe want to measure the weight with the pistons and rings connected? Maybe put the lightest pistons on the heaviest rods before you begin grinding?
I'm not going to be grinding Tom. I dont think you can remove over 100grams from a rod and piston of this size. It's a lot of weight!
I enjoyed the video and it's looking good!
Thanks!
Excellent ! good job
Thanks, glad you like it
Great job
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Matt, where did you find the NOS rope seals? I've got a '46 that will need engine repair as I restore it.
Bob, I think it was ebay again, felpro provide them as standard in their gasket kits but I dont know how they compare with the originals as I've never used them. I have ever heard of anyone having a problem them with them however?
Where did you find the valve spring compressor tool?
Ebay ;) reproductions are made too available from spares suppliers, ;)
Hi Greendot, may I ask what your bare metal block has been prepared/painted with?
It's been wire wheeled and then coated in oil so it doesnt rust further. The painted bits are painted with red oxide enamel, cheers
@@Greendot319 Cheers, thanks. I'm at a similar stage with my 46' CJ2A. I've enjoyed following your build. Keep it up!
Nice Argention to details but in Europe most of ppls changes ropes to mercedes benz 300d seals... They fit and last much longer xd
Thanks for that, never heard of that seal but looks good 👍
@@Greendot319 check it, mercedes especially in models like W126 use good quality ropes/seals... they dont leak, and no tear like classic ones. I use them in russian UAZ to avoid leaks from engine block
@@Greendot319 just find matching one from mercedes parts catalog. They produce them to this day
This is fascinating. I have heard of a similar situation. When you have an Oldsmobile 455 and need a rear main seal, most car parts catalogs don't give you many options. However, a Ford 460 seal does fit, and car part catalogs have a much larger number of options.
Im not sure if you are still responding to older videos but i was wondering if it is necessary to remove the engine or if it es feasible to replace the old seal with the engine still mounted?
you have to lower the crank up to get the block seal in...this would be impossible with the engine still connected to the transmission...you would have also remove the front timing cover...this is one of those jobs you have to take the engine out and flip over to do correctly.
Do you soak it in oil so it will expand?
Rope seals,,, well how about that! I blew a seal once but that’s a personal issue I thank you.
Think that's more of an o ring problem
Good morning 319, I think you mean lbs ft. Not ft lbs. ft lbs is work done lbs ft is torque. Roger in Norfolk.
After market one's are junk
Excellent - very interesting! Don't mean to get ahead of you but I have a question about my recently rebuilt 134L. I plan to drop it in this spring and will be starting for the first time. Do I need to "pre-oil" the engine prior to start up, or will the assembly lube be sufficient until the oil pressure builds? I want to do it right but don't have a "pre-oiler" and don't want to buy one. Thanks a lot!
You do need to pre-oil it in my opinion and I will cover that in one of my coming videos however just to cover it all you need to do is get an oil can and pump oil down the oil filter supply line until it comes out the top of the oil gauge line and then you are good to go! Pre-oiling costs nothing and ensures your engine has oil from the start so you have nothing to lose but lots to gain if you dont do it ;) cheers matt
Sorry 'do do it'
I do have a small fluid transfer pump and was wondering if I hook it up to the port in the block for the oil pressure gauge and pump a quart or two of oil in there, maybe that would get me there? It is not high pressure by any means, but it will move the oil. What do you think?
@@aboyandhisdog all you need to do is fill the line so the pressure doesnt matter. You could pour it in if you like! As long as it comes out the other end of the line e.g. the gauge line or the filter line then that means the gallery is full and your system is primed. Turn the engine over a few times to ensure the pump is primed too of you like. Cheers
I got a 455 buick engine cant stop the roap seal from leaking
Proably needs re-doing, they don't last forever :/
Nice job - very informative , keep up the good work! OIIIIIIO
Thanks! Glad you appreciate it, Matt
👍 👍 👍
Why the asbestos rope seals. That's not very safe
I think its called packing seal...😁
Very informative and Great editing, but the Japanese music??? Maybe keep that for a Mazda rebuild😂😉
Ha thanks, think of it as aiming for the japanese ideal of engine building as being an art form ;)
@@Greendot319 They lost......
😂🤣😂🤣😂✌️