I agree with bad66. Tried that method multiple times and upon installation of the cap it shaves the outer parts of the seal to the point it relieves pressure where the seal meets the crank. I always install flush with a bit of silicone where they meet and also a bead of silicone at both sides where the top corners of the cap meet the block to make up for the 45 degree bevel on both sides of the top of the cap, the place where these engines always leak. Done hundreds with no leaks !!
@@bad66chevelles I have done it both ways ends butted and off set I've had them leak both ways and I've had them seal up both ways so who is right about how the seal is placed? Honestly I don't think it matters one bit I do know that Ford recommends a staggered seal set up but who really knows We have done a bunch of Big Block Chevy and Fords I think how you prepare the mating surfaces and the quality of seal is a far bigger issue when it comes to rear main sealing I will say the super glue thing is Genius those side gaskets have always been a big problem with the FE blocks. They are very hard to keep in place when installing the cap. I think he solved that with the super glue
I did mine on my 428 in the car with a Chinese finger and it worked but took me a few days to figure out how to do it. that was 30 years ago now. done plenty since then, every engine is a finiky little devil, good info here in the video good job!!!
Thankyou one of not many that talk about bearing surfaces and acid in your fingers or skin if more people would listen instead off being know alls.peace
i picked up a 73 390 for my 70 high boy free is a very good price still runs good but i am thinking on rebuilding it before i drop it in. i got the 70 high boy for 250 buck has tool box on side good clean body no rust at all dana 60/80 lockers top loader 4 speed had a 429 in it with bad head gasket, still have the 429 stands put in stock stands. have a tilt wheel out of a 72 Lincoln which bolts right in which has a 429 in it those are the stands to use in a 67 to 72 3/4 ton. most of my rigs are chevy all have big blocks. right now i am looking at a 65 ford 1/2 ton with tool box on side 2 wheel drive rust free the body on it is mint no dings full chrome 300 bucks with the factory 352 fe in it just need a tune up to drive. thinking on flipping it after getting it running worth a lot in the shape it is in . just to get more parts for my other projects
I have always put the seal in flush with the cap. Then I put a little gasket eliminator-anerobic at the mating surfaces. NOT silicone. I have yet to have one come back on me.
Hello, Mate have watched your videos for a while now great stuff,I don't have a 390 but was one of the newer videos that you have postered, but I have a serious question that I can not get some answers hope you may help with your experience. I have a new build Cleveland 302 with a slight cam, not a roller rocker I am at the end of the line with overheating on my 302 Cleveland, let me tell you what I have done at present 1. Rebuilt 302 Cleveland slight cam had a 3 core copper brass radiator installed with a 20 in thermo fan with a 160f thermostat trace boss and restrictor plate and it overheated. 2. replace 160f thermostats with 185 thermostat trace boss as suggested by all info I have read overheated 3. Replaced 3-core brass copper radiator with 4-core aluminium radiator with 17 in flex fan, a 3-inch shroud, and a 185f track boss thermostat overheated 4. Replaced 185f thermostat with a Ford recommended 195 f track boss with new restrictor plate still overheating The 302 has been just rebuilt with 50 miles on it do you have any ideas so I don't touch it. i have checked the head gaskets and they are on the correct way any ideas for a poor Aussie Cheers Shane
@@dtorr222 I don't deny that but on budget build if you don't have the exact head gasket where your block has been decked adjustable rockers can be quite handy
You really only need shaft mounted rocker in high RPM (7000 and higher) applications. Other that that they are only good for bragging points at car meets. Standard individual rocker are more than good enough for high performance applications below (7000RPM). Besides in extreme situations your pushing the standard rockers to the extreme they make girdles to tie them all together. Along with stud hardware from ARP, or Comp Cams, or any other good manufacturer, and you'll be fine. Then you'll be àble to push the standard style rocker setup pass 7000 RPM if you decide to.😉 Assuming that you have enough cam, and springs to support that range of course.
@@erikturner5073 my thing is if you decked the block or milled a little down off the heads you have to measure for new pushrods with that bar assembly that is non-adjustable that's why I like them individually adjustable
@@forestlawrencegrading9154 yeah I know. I was explaining my point because so many people get hung up on the shaft system being so called superior. Even people who have engines that stay under 6500 RPM with mild street cams. Like as if the shaft system will benefit them more than the standard individual style.😆 I see this argument in both the Ford, and Mopar communities.
Yup, nails mushroomed and bent first time, shaved my side seals down the 2nd time and the dang nails still bent right at the end. Gonna try and use my old nails the next go around. Could of had the block together a week ago if not for these.
Jesus christ what a pain in the arse. No wonder mines leaking.🤣 After watch this i'm going to keep putting oil in it till it's running out then pay someone to do it.
Got an old trick from Jim dove years ago put hy temp silicone in a sireng throw away those side gaskets put that cap in lose fill those voids torque the push a zip tie in that groove and watch magic happen let cure and cut off that tie it never leaks
Авто/Мото
I agree with bad66. Tried that method multiple times and upon installation of the cap it shaves the outer parts of the seal to the point it relieves pressure where the seal meets the crank. I always install flush with a bit of silicone where they meet and also a bead of silicone at both sides where the top corners of the cap meet the block to make up for the 45 degree bevel on both sides of the top of the cap, the place where these engines always leak. Done hundreds with no leaks !!
@@bad66chevelles UTG isn’t always correct.
@@bad66chevelles I have done it both ways ends butted and off set I've had them leak both ways and I've had them seal up both ways so who is right about how the seal is placed? Honestly I don't think it matters one bit I do know that Ford recommends a staggered seal set up but who really knows We have done a bunch of Big Block Chevy and Fords I think how you prepare the mating surfaces and the quality of seal is a far bigger issue when it comes to rear main sealing I will say the super glue thing is Genius those side gaskets have always been a big problem with the FE blocks.
They are very hard to keep in place when installing the cap.
I think he solved that with the super glue
no one on this planet has done hundreds of engines with no leaks
Thank you sir!! Getting ready to rebuild a 390 FE real soon. THANK YOU for that advice!!
I did mine on my 428 in the car with a Chinese finger and it worked but took me a few days to figure out how to do it. that was 30 years ago now. done plenty since then, every engine is a finiky little devil, good info here in the video good job!!!
I hope you were at least nice enough to return the finger to the Chinaman so he could glue it back in place.
Good stuff as always man!
Thankyou one of not many that talk about bearing surfaces and acid in your fingers or skin if more people would listen instead off being know alls.peace
i picked up a 73 390 for my 70 high boy free is a very good price still runs good but i am thinking on rebuilding it before i drop it in. i got the 70 high boy for 250 buck has tool box on side good clean body no rust at all dana 60/80 lockers top loader 4 speed had a 429 in it with bad head gasket, still have the 429 stands put in stock stands. have a tilt wheel out of a 72 Lincoln which bolts right in which has a 429 in it those are the stands to use in a 67 to 72 3/4 ton. most of my rigs are chevy all have big blocks. right now i am looking at a 65 ford 1/2 ton with tool box on side 2 wheel drive rust free the body on it is mint no dings full chrome 300 bucks with the factory 352 fe in it just need a tune up to drive. thinking on flipping it after getting it running worth a lot in the shape it is in . just to get more parts for my other projects
I have always put the seal in flush with the cap. Then I put a little gasket eliminator-anerobic at the mating surfaces. NOT silicone. I have yet to have one come back on me.
What do you torque those bolts to?
Hello, Mate have watched your videos for a while now great stuff,I don't have a 390 but was one of the newer videos that you have postered, but I have a serious question that I can not get some answers hope you may help with your experience. I have a new build Cleveland 302 with a slight cam, not a roller rocker I am at the end of the line with overheating on my 302 Cleveland, let me tell you what I have done at present 1. Rebuilt 302 Cleveland slight cam had a 3 core copper brass radiator installed with a 20 in thermo fan with a 160f thermostat trace boss and restrictor plate and it overheated. 2. replace 160f thermostats with 185 thermostat trace boss as suggested by all info I have read overheated 3. Replaced 3-core brass copper radiator with 4-core aluminium radiator with 17 in flex fan, a 3-inch shroud, and a 185f track boss thermostat overheated 4. Replaced 185f thermostat with a Ford recommended 195 f track boss with new restrictor plate still overheating The 302 has been just rebuilt with 50 miles on it do you have any ideas so I don't touch it. i have checked the head gaskets and they are on the correct way any ideas for a poor Aussie Cheers Shane
when you say overheating what temp is it boiling over?
@@dtorr222 120c
Bit of oil on the bearing/crank
I love them old Fe I just wish they had individual studded rockers instead of that rocker bar
Shaft mounted rockers are much more stable and stronger than stud mounted
@@dtorr222 I don't deny that but on budget build if you don't have the exact head gasket where your block has been decked adjustable rockers can be quite handy
You really only need shaft mounted rocker in high RPM (7000 and higher) applications. Other that that they are only good for bragging points at car meets. Standard individual rocker are more than good enough for high performance applications below (7000RPM). Besides in extreme situations your pushing the standard rockers to the extreme they make girdles to tie them all together. Along with stud hardware from ARP, or Comp Cams, or any other good manufacturer, and you'll be fine. Then you'll be àble to push the standard style rocker setup pass 7000 RPM if you decide to.😉 Assuming that you have enough cam, and springs to support that range of course.
@@erikturner5073 my thing is if you decked the block or milled a little down off the heads you have to measure for new pushrods with that bar assembly that is non-adjustable that's why I like them individually adjustable
@@forestlawrencegrading9154 yeah I know. I was explaining my point because so many people get hung up on the shaft system being so called superior. Even people who have engines that stay under 6500 RPM with mild street cams. Like as if the shaft system will benefit them more than the standard individual style.😆 I see this argument in both the Ford, and Mopar communities.
No assembly lube on the bearing? Yikes!
if your going to run your engine shortly after building oil is all it needs
The old pins work great and dont bend. The new ones are crap steel and bend easy
Yup, nails mushroomed and bent first time, shaved my side seals down the 2nd time and the dang nails still bent right at the end. Gonna try and use my old nails the next go around. Could of had the block together a week ago if not for these.
Update: old nails worked great lol
Jesus christ what a pain in the arse. No wonder mines leaking.🤣 After watch this i'm going to keep putting oil in it till it's running out then pay someone to do it.
Almost as bad as a Pontiac
Got an old trick from Jim dove years ago put hy temp silicone in a sireng throw away those side gaskets put that cap in lose fill those voids torque the push a zip tie in that groove and watch magic happen let cure and cut off that tie it never leaks