Really enjoying your video series. I'm working on my 53 Packard's engine, in frame, and your videos have been very helpful as I think about my project. Thank you!!!
So... I searched EVERYWHERE in the Dallas/Fort Worth area for a machine shop that could/would do the job. Nada... NONE ... they all said that they don't touch the old stuff, or they only do stuff for the racing circuit or 'it all has to be custom' and so really really expensive. Upshot- I gotta go with what I got or pay shipping a 250 lb block half way across the country... So thanks Brian and be happy you retain abilities no one else has!
I hear that same thing from people all around the country. I guess that is why I rebuild engines and ship them to all 50 states and beyond. If you need any help with your engine just let me know. Brian
Stellar work as always Brian. Sent my crank out to be welded and ground next state over since no shops here do welding anymore. They say the metal has porosity issues and pinholes and will take lots of welding to bring it to .335. Its an MB crank. Here's hoping.
Do it right the first time, and your rebuild will be better than the factory product. Those extra hours spent getting everything perfect equal years extra service you'll enjoy from the engine. Our host may never get a "best cinematography" oscar, but he KNOWS these engines, and his expertise will never lead you astray.
Metalshaper, thanks for this valuable and accurate advice. Have you posted anything on methods to restore factory cam bearing clearances on the rearward (non-replaceable) cam journals? I've had problems maintaining factory-spec oil pressure due to excess cam clearances, despite tight clearances everywhere else. It's worse on the 161 sixes (L and F head) which have one more non-replaceable cam bearing than the 134 fours.
Hi Brian, do you have some advice according to repairing broken thread inside the L134 engine block? One of mij threads, for the studs of the head, is damaged inside the engine block. Which kind of material do you advice? Thanks a lot. Greetings from Belgium.
Ok, blocks flat, now what about piston slap (high revs stretching the bearing clearance to a minimum) Had an engine die due to previous shop shaving the block but not addressing the revised piston clearance, ran with 'ping' until the bearing wore enough to become a slap and self destruct. Solutions? Shave piston heads as well to maintain clearance, or is there another remedy to this trouble?
The block can be decked with no problem. The pistons on these engines are well below deck height so there is never a problem with decking. You can take these blocks all the way to "zero deck" height and still have no trouble. If you had a "ping" with your engine you should check your timing, carburetor, and valve adjustment, etc... I don't know about your rebuild but there are lots of other factors that contribute to a good, long lasting engine.
@@metalshaperJeep The "Ping" was what it sounded like when I bought the jeep, sounded like a valve...multiple adjustments of valves to try to reduce it, without luck, lived with it for 5 years until a friend drove it and the piston slapped the head at speed, resulting in a cracked piston, bent rod. Shame, as it was a Ford block too. You do very nice machine work, appreciate the tips and tricks.
Are there any reasons to not rebuild a pre-war willys L-134? Block number 440-21763. Parts issues? I am not worried about being period correct. It's just the engine that is in my mb/gpw mash up.
The pre war engines are similar to the normal L head engine but the cylinders are exposed and they don't cool as well as the later engines that had coolant around the cylinders. Parts are available but if you have a WW2 jeep I think it is worth it to put in the correct engine.
This isn't any different than anything you do, either you do it right from the start or it will never be right. There is no excuse for not doing it right and it will never be right if you don't start out doing it right. I like the way you work because you are a craftsman.
![Tee Grizzley - Robbery 8 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34_vkNV6wrU/mqdefault.jpg)
I love watching this level of precision! I could never replicate this at home but I learn so much every time you post one of these videos
Glad you enjoy the videos. I get so many questions about engines, so I am trying to show the correct way to get a quality rebuild.
Brian you use lots of common sense yet loving attention to detail, and the combination yields benefits.
Really enjoying your video series. I'm working on my 53 Packard's engine, in frame, and your videos have been very helpful as I think about my project. Thank you!!!
thanks for watching, check out my many other engine videos as well.
So... I searched EVERYWHERE in the Dallas/Fort Worth area for a machine shop that could/would do the job. Nada... NONE ... they all said that they don't touch the old stuff, or they only do stuff for the racing circuit or 'it all has to be custom' and so really really expensive. Upshot- I gotta go with what I got or pay shipping a 250 lb block half way across the country... So thanks Brian and be happy you retain abilities no one else has!
I hear that same thing from people all around the country. I guess that is why I rebuild engines and ship them to all 50 states and beyond. If you need any help with your engine just let me know.
Brian
Stellar work as always Brian. Sent my crank out to be welded and ground next state over since no shops here do welding anymore. They say the metal has porosity issues and pinholes and will take lots of welding to bring it to .335. Its an MB crank. Here's hoping.
Which state are you in?
Thanks Brian, enjoyed as always! Taker easy, Will
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you Brian, great info for all classic's
You're welcome!
Excelente serviço muito bom no capricho parabéns
Do it right the first time, and your rebuild will be better than the factory product. Those extra hours spent getting everything perfect equal years extra service you'll enjoy from the engine. Our host may never get a "best cinematography" oscar, but he KNOWS these engines, and his expertise will never lead you astray.
Brain just love these engines.
thanks for watching.
Metalshaper, thanks for this valuable and accurate advice. Have you posted anything on methods to restore factory cam bearing clearances on the rearward (non-replaceable) cam journals? I've had problems maintaining factory-spec oil pressure due to excess cam clearances, despite tight clearances everywhere else. It's worse on the 161 sixes (L and F head) which have one more non-replaceable cam bearing than the 134 fours.
The bores will have to be bored oversize and a cam bearing installed. I have done it before but didn't film it.
Interesting learning alo
I can't wait for some paint booth action!!
coming very soon
Hi perfect job..please is a video with valve adjustment on a l 134 engine?
Yes! Yes! Pls. Do you use the threads / inch - turns method?
Goosebumps seeing an L head come back to life haha....
I could tell by the sound of the straight edge when it hit the block it was straight.
Thanks for sharing. I can't say I've seen all your videos. I haven't seen anything about grinding valves. Do you use all new valves?
I always use new valves when available. I only grind valves when they can not be found new or NOS.
Thanks again Brain, go well.
Thank you, appreciate you watching
Great work. What's the rough cost on a rebuild like this?
Every engine is different, depending what it needs.
Hi Brian, do you have some advice according to repairing broken thread inside the L134 engine block? One of mij threads, for the studs of the head, is damaged inside the engine block. Which kind of material do you advice? Thanks a lot. Greetings from Belgium.
Good job
Thankfully mine shows pretty flat. I'm at .060 over on cylinders though and #3 hole isn't impressive. Still not sure where I'm going w this build. sub
How do you pressure test that L head?
Im in the philippines, and have a willys, i need help getting this engine back to life. Do you have a book? Or any way i can get info?
Ok, blocks flat, now what about piston slap (high revs stretching the bearing clearance to a minimum) Had an engine die due to previous shop shaving the block but not addressing the revised piston clearance, ran with 'ping' until the bearing wore enough to become a slap and self destruct. Solutions? Shave piston heads as well to maintain clearance, or is there another remedy to this trouble?
The block can be decked with no problem. The pistons on these engines are well below deck height so there is never a problem with decking. You can take these blocks all the way to "zero deck" height and still have no trouble. If you had a "ping" with your engine you should check your timing, carburetor, and valve adjustment, etc...
I don't know about your rebuild but there are lots of other factors that contribute to a good, long lasting engine.
@@metalshaperJeep The "Ping" was what it sounded like when I bought the jeep, sounded like a valve...multiple adjustments of valves to try to reduce it, without luck, lived with it for 5 years until a friend drove it and the piston slapped the head at speed, resulting in a cracked piston, bent rod.
Shame, as it was a Ford block too. You do very nice machine work, appreciate the tips and tricks.
Talk about engine porn. G'day Brian. As always great video. I hope you and the family are all ok and side steped the covid19. 👍🍻
Glad you enjoyed the video. We are healthy and doing well but the world sure is different now. Hope all is well in your corner of the world. Brian
@@metalshaperJeep All good here Brian thanks.
How do I get a hold of metalshaper to see about a L134 block?
you can reach me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
Whatever happened to the crank that you sent out that you thought was going to have to be turned down quite a bit
Crank came back and was installed in the last engine I rebuilt and has been delivered and is driving around now.
just out of curiosity on average what do you get for a complete engine rebuild like this
Every engine is different and priced accordingly.
Are there any reasons to not rebuild a pre-war willys L-134? Block number 440-21763. Parts issues? I am not worried about being period correct. It's just the engine that is in my mb/gpw mash up.
The pre war engines are similar to the normal L head engine but the cylinders are exposed and they don't cool as well as the later engines that had coolant around the cylinders. Parts are available but if you have a WW2 jeep I think it is worth it to put in the correct engine.
@@metalshaperJeep how to talk to @metalshaper
This isn't any different than anything you do, either you do it right from the start or it will never be right. There is no excuse for not doing it right and it will never be right if you don't start out doing it right. I like the way you work because you are a craftsman.
thanks for the comment and watching my videos.