If you'd like to help me make better videos and you enjoy absurdly comfortable T-shirts:) check this out-> www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheFunnyCarpenter?ref=search_shop_redirect Thanks for watching!
I use superglue with accelerator like you did in this video. To get perfect alignment, use an old baseboard outside-edge trick. Line up the edges (without the glue) and then wrap a piece of masking tape around the outside of the corner. It will act as a hinge and allow you to open and close the two pieces in perfect alignment. Pivot the pieces open, apply the glue to one side and the hardner to the other, and then pivot the pieces closed. No guess-work and perfect alignment. :-)
Did every door/window casing in my recent remodel using this method and they all came out so nice it made me sad when we hung some of the window treatments and hid some of my miter work. Most of my friends aren’t DIY people and I take a lot pride in checking out the “professional” results they got from contractors and realizing mine came out much nicer. Too many “just slap it up fast and caulk it” cowboys out there pretending to be craftsmen.
I’m a retired woodworker and we used a similar method when work was being shipped across country, we would use print dimensions and using biscuits pre build trim like these (usually custom profiles in interesting species) , staple a cross brace on bottom, and in the truck they go. We never had any problems, and builders liked it because easy instal, we liked it because we controlled the quality of mitre as well as wood grain matching perfectly
In the UK, we use a sliding square set to your architrave/trim offset (usually 8-10mm) all the way around the frame, then cut the header to the lines on the inside mitre angles, fix the header, then cut the legs with mitres a little long, turn them upside down and offer them up one at a time, whether hard floor or carpet, the point of the mitre will show you the exact height. You mark the top of the header on the bottom of the leg, cut it off at 90° and voila, it's exactly right, I tend to use grab adhesive on the back now as just pins and caulk isn't enough in my opinion, I then spray both faces of the mitres with activator, put the super glue on the leg mitre face, slide it up carefully till it bonds in the right position, pin from the bottom up, works perfectly.
That’s why you should be thankful you don’t speak German. If Americans wanted tips from a Brit we would ask how to fix fucked up teeth or how to colonize, rape, and pillage entire continents of people and then disappear into obscurity when the colonialists decide to say fuck your taxation without representation. For more just the tip from an American just ask for the prom night special next time, and don’t start a sentence with “in the UK….” Unless you are talking about Led Zeppelin or Ozzy fucking Osborne we don’t give a fuck….. just kidding cheerio governor😂🤙🏼🔥🍆
Was his name Robert my brother law must have done your job , sounds like it, he usually gets some old fashioned polyfiller and apples it with his thumb and fingers what a nightmare you should have seen my fingers after sanding it down by hand the tips of my fingers were red raw and bleeding I couldn't eat my fish n chips by hand, ha ha 😂 I'm actually serious and he's a carpenter that's the funny thing.
This is a great method for MDF casings especially. For natural wood, hog ring clamps and wood glue is incredibly strong and less prone to breaking while maneuvering assemblies to the nailing location. Nice Job.
@@LarryBinFL I liked the 2P 10 method but cringed waiting for a corner to snap when nailing casings on. The hog ring and Titebond method allowed me to assemble casings one after another, lean them against the wall to set for a while, distribute and install while leaving the clamps on. I would remove the clamps after the glue was cured. I have never used the PUR glue or Clam Clamps but that combination seems like the ultimate system to me.
2P10 is amazing stuff... and strong. Even glued handle back on a belt sander (still on a few years later with everyday use) and other uses. Just have to watch where you place those fingers when lining pieces up or they may be stuck to the pieces. We use it for various mouldings including crown and light valances in kitchens etc. Even fix kids toys with it.
So very helpful dude! Your instructional videos speak my language. You have a perfectionist mentality, just as I do. (I know it's painful sometimes) perfection is essential for a finish carpenter. But, I love your techniques in all your videos.
Thanks for this great Miter tip! I'm about to install 3.5" baseboard in my bedrooms. I'm wondering if the same technique will apply to corner miters for baseboards? Might be tricky since the length of the boards are 3x the length of a typical door opening.
Another trick is to glue, join the pieces and spray on top. The spray will infiltrate an set the glue. It will take 5-10 seconds instead of 2. But if your hands are shaky...it's worth the wait. The spray won't really leave marks and you're going to paint it anyways.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter For sure. My luck I'd cut the miters at like 44 degrees and then by the time the vertical casing got to the bottom of the door I'd be way off. Or if the door jam isn't square.
Question: Wouldn't it be better to have a Square as a alignment tool to make sure the pieces are square while glueing together? I mean you only have a couple of seconds till the glue sets, right?
I love your calm and modest manner, Funny Carpenter. I've just subscribed 😊 Could I make a little request, however? For a certain portion of your viewers, it is very difficult indeed to hear the dialogue above the music. If the music is necessary, could you please tweet it down a bit so that we can hear your very pleasant voice? Many thanks and God bless 🙏🏻
Interesting point, I’ve found the 2p10 pretty sweet for this purpose. I’m sometimes amazed at how you can wrangle the hole set up through doorways and not break them.
He is using CA glue and that stuff is used in woodworking all the time; it is not as strong as wood glue but it is pretty strong. It is more brittle than wood glue, so it does not handle torque on a joint well.
It must be nice to have everything white. I have a 1960 house and all the casings and moldings are wood stained. Anytime I think of doing an upgrade on something involves having to match the wood stain and finish. Everything would look hodge-podge unless I did the entire house and I don't see that happening.
in production we would nail the casing to 1 side of the door and use that to hang the door in the opening, only shooting nails thru the casing to secure the hollow core pre hung door into the opening, lol......no its not the best way but was incredibly fast......also done high end homes in Laguna beach where we had doormaker on site and we made the moulding with a shaper on site......heavy ass interior mahogany doors.......2 completely different worlds
Note that superglue is basically just cyanoacrylate. That thing was originally designed to glue skin so make sure you don't get any on your skin and definitely not into your eyes. Even using safety glasses might be sensible.
Good video & tips! Like others - please cut the music. I rather hear you. Some mentioned out of square door frames. Can't I just nail the top, a foot or so down each side and then adjust the trim a little to the rest of the frame? Thanks again.
i like the ,assembly first idea , but while you have the C.A. glue out ,insted of using joint filler , put some C.A. glue on there and dust some baking soda over it, it dries instantly , and is much more durable and sticks better than fillers , so when you go to paint , you're not pulling your filler off with the brush or roller , i was shown that years ago at the ibanez guitar distributor , but it's just becoming popular lately, but ya man , we used it for everything , it was our duck tape
My brother and I work together. He hates when I pull out that glue to do my miters lol. He doesnt see the obvious value in this step like others in the comments. My opinion is 1. Its worth it as its one of the best ways to have a profressional perfect product. 2. If its not worth it for the pay on the job, then you priced the job incorrectly.....mike drop lol. Customer doesnt like the price for my perfect work, then they want someone else.
You should not use the activator in situations like this. The glue dries in about three minutes and the chances of you gluing it up un square greatly outweighs the three minutes you have to wait.seriously, a couple minutes….
Three comments: First, you could have made clear that what you have there is a standard CA glue and an activator. Starbond makes lots of versions for woodworkers. But even dollar store gel superglue works fine. Second, the risk of dripping onto the surface below is big, so you need to pay attention to what you are gluing it on top of, lest your work stick to it!. Third, your technique at 1:57 had you spraying the activator towards the glued surface, and even a little bit of overspray that reached that glue would have turned the whole thing hard in moments.
Your narration is hard to understand sometimes,like when you are looking down, and the annoying music. You don’t need the music. If you are doing a bunch of work without narration, yeah, then the music is fine.
I'm a retired joiner of 45 yrs....I can't imagine taking all this extra unnecessary time to fix architrave to houses on site....I wouldn't make any bonus pay!....just cut it right first time and fix it direct to the door casing!...simple..👍🏻
I agree it is quicker to nail the head on then the legs adding a bit of PVA but this gives a better finish. Whatever method you use you certainly only need to mark and cut once, non of this rechecking nonsense.
I cant imagine taking this long on caseing a white finger jointed pine caseing that is getting filler and painted. Not hating. Miters look great. But dang that a lot of fiddling around. For fjp.
Хобби
If you'd like to help me make better videos and you enjoy absurdly comfortable T-shirts:) check this out-> www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheFunnyCarpenter?ref=search_shop_redirect
Thanks for watching!
I use superglue with accelerator like you did in this video. To get perfect alignment, use an old baseboard outside-edge trick. Line up the edges (without the glue) and then wrap a piece of masking tape around the outside of the corner. It will act as a hinge and allow you to open and close the two pieces in perfect alignment. Pivot the pieces open, apply the glue to one side and the hardner to the other, and then pivot the pieces closed. No guess-work and perfect alignment. :-)
sounds like an extra un necessary operation to me Brian.
@@stevehallam6495 You added two unnecessary words to your sentence Steve. extra and un.
Did every door/window casing in my recent remodel using this method and they all came out so nice it made me sad when we hung some of the window treatments and hid some of my miter work. Most of my friends aren’t DIY people and I take a lot pride in checking out the “professional” results they got from contractors and realizing mine came out much nicer. Too many “just slap it up fast and caulk it” cowboys out there pretending to be craftsmen.
No doubt! The average finish “carpenter” takes very little pride in their work. It’s all about speed and easy.
I’m a retired woodworker and we used a similar method when work was being shipped across country, we would use print dimensions and using biscuits pre build trim like these (usually custom profiles in interesting species) , staple a cross brace on bottom, and in the truck they go.
We never had any problems, and builders liked it because easy instal, we liked it because we controlled the quality of mitre as well as wood grain matching perfectly
In the UK, we use a sliding square set to your architrave/trim offset (usually 8-10mm) all the way around the frame, then cut the header to the lines on the inside mitre angles, fix the header, then cut the legs with mitres a little long, turn them upside down and offer them up one at a time, whether hard floor or carpet, the point of the mitre will show you the exact height. You mark the top of the header on the bottom of the leg, cut it off at 90° and voila, it's exactly right, I tend to use grab adhesive on the back now as just pins and caulk isn't enough in my opinion, I then spray both faces of the mitres with activator, put the super glue on the leg mitre face, slide it up carefully till it bonds in the right position, pin from the bottom up, works perfectly.
That’s why you should be thankful you don’t speak German. If Americans wanted tips from a Brit we would ask how to fix fucked up teeth or how to colonize, rape, and pillage entire continents of people and then disappear into obscurity when the colonialists decide to say fuck your taxation without representation. For more just the tip from an American just ask for the prom night special next time, and don’t start a sentence with “in the UK….” Unless you are talking about Led Zeppelin or Ozzy fucking Osborne we don’t give a fuck….. just kidding cheerio governor😂🤙🏼🔥🍆
From the US here what's a mm LOL! just kidding around!😊
The UK went metric in the late 90's /early 00's. That being said I believe it's still miles for distance and speed?
This makes so much more sense. Too bad my trim guys didn’t see this two weeks ago, I’m pretty sure I have more caulk and filler than actual trim
🙃
Was his name Robert my brother law must have done your job , sounds like it, he usually gets some old fashioned polyfiller and apples it with his thumb and fingers what a nightmare you should have seen my fingers after sanding it down by hand the tips of my fingers were red raw and bleeding I couldn't eat my fish n chips by hand, ha ha 😂 I'm actually serious and he's a carpenter that's the funny thing.
I use exact same process for crown molding on cabinets.works great
This is a great method for MDF casings especially. For natural wood, hog ring clamps and wood glue is incredibly strong and less prone to breaking while maneuvering assemblies to the nailing location. Nice Job.
I have no idea what a hog ring clamp has to do with this, but wood glue sets up way too slowly to be of much use.
@@LarryBinFL I liked the 2P 10 method but cringed waiting for a corner to snap when nailing casings on. The hog ring and Titebond method allowed me to assemble casings one after another, lean them against the wall to set for a while, distribute and install while leaving the clamps on. I would remove the clamps after the glue was cured. I have never used the PUR glue or Clam Clamps but that combination seems like the ultimate system to me.
2P10 is amazing stuff... and strong. Even glued handle back on a belt sander (still on a few years later with everyday use) and other uses. Just have to watch where you place those fingers when lining pieces up or they may be stuck to the pieces. We use it for various mouldings including crown and light valances in kitchens etc. Even fix kids toys with it.
Just discovered you- you're awesome 💥 Thanks v much for caulking tips, hanging doors and architrave tips 👍👍👍I like your no-waffle style xox
So very helpful dude! Your instructional videos speak my language. You have a perfectionist mentality, just as I do. (I know it's painful sometimes) perfection is essential for a finish carpenter. But, I love your techniques in all your videos.
Thank you for all the knoledge you are spreading!🙏👏🤝
Congratulations on busting over 100 subs,that was a beautiful tight corner my friend 😉👍🍻
Thanks Tim!
Very simple and effective. Thank you for sharing such a quality method, with a quality outcome.
Thanks for this great Miter tip! I'm about to install 3.5" baseboard in my bedrooms. I'm wondering if the same technique will apply to corner miters for baseboards? Might be tricky since the length of the boards are 3x the length of a typical door opening.
Another trick is to glue, join the pieces and spray on top. The spray will infiltrate an set the glue. It will take 5-10 seconds instead of 2. But if your hands are shaky...it's worth the wait. The spray won't really leave marks and you're going to paint it anyways.
Great instructions!
I'm not sure why I never thought of this. Awesome tip, Dude!
For profiled casings it's the way go, bit of a learning curve but once you get the hang of it, it's pretty majestic!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter For sure. My luck I'd cut the miters at like 44 degrees and then by the time the vertical casing got to the bottom of the door I'd be way off. Or if the door jam isn't square.
Definitely giving this a try👏👏
Question: Wouldn't it be better to have a Square as a alignment tool to make sure the pieces are square while glueing together? I mean you only have a couple of seconds till the glue sets, right?
I'm a painter no carpenter but there's a shortage so thanks I need all the help I can get.
the way you seem most comfortable spraying the activator, start with the right leg and work counter clockwise would be more efficient.
I love your calm and modest manner, Funny Carpenter. I've just subscribed 😊
Could I make a little request, however? For a certain portion of your viewers, it is very difficult indeed to hear the dialogue above the music. If the music is necessary, could you please tweet it down a bit so that we can hear your very pleasant voice?
Many thanks and God bless 🙏🏻
Good call buddy! This was an older video before I realized how to properly mix the audio:)
What dry dex product is that?
Sneaky awesome!
Cool video
I just finished my trim around doors and windows should I caulk my miters wit caulk or should I use wood filler?
Thanks
Definitely wood filled. Caulk is not meant for mitre faces. It can be used though for inside baseboard and crown joints.
Is there a video on how to measure them?
the 45* angle where do you do it to on the frame,
Can u use this method on PVC brick mould?
I love 2p10, but I still prefer wood glue and Hartford clamps for my casings. I find the 2p10 a tad brittle
Interesting point, I’ve found the 2p10 pretty sweet for this purpose. I’m sometimes amazed at how you can wrangle the hole set up through doorways and not break them.
Can't find the glue and activator in New Mexico. I don't believe it work's
Do think the glue is strong enough to keep the miters from separating with seasonal weather changes?
I do.
He is using CA glue and that stuff is used in woodworking all the time; it is not as strong as wood glue but it is pretty strong. It is more brittle than wood glue, so it does not handle torque on a joint well.
It must be nice to have everything white. I have a 1960 house and all the casings and moldings are wood stained. Anytime I think of doing an upgrade on something involves having to match the wood stain and finish. Everything would look hodge-podge unless I did the entire house and I don't see that happening.
Ya that can be overwhelming!
The new carpentry style “Bob Ross”l right here.
in production we would nail the casing to 1 side of the door and use that to hang the door in the opening, only shooting nails thru the casing to secure the hollow core pre hung door into the opening, lol......no its not the best way but was incredibly fast......also done high end homes in Laguna beach where we had doormaker on site and we made the moulding with a shaper on site......heavy ass interior mahogany doors.......2 completely different worlds
Great video... almost. Filler, mood music is such a pain. I think guys that need this must have a radio station on 24/7.
Note that superglue is basically just cyanoacrylate. That thing was originally designed to glue skin so make sure you don't get any on your skin and definitely not into your eyes. Even using safety glasses might be sensible.
Uh, I use super glue on cuts on my fingers all the time. 😂
Do you have a set back when you measure?
I usually leave a 3/16" reveal on my door trims.
Bro, where were you this weekend
May I ask that how many nails do you need to fix the casing on the door frame?
20-28 ish. Depends on the casing and how wonky the walls are.
PUR glue is good, also you could use corrugated nails.
what happens if the head off your frame is 1/8 off level .......your margins will be off......
I saw that canon m50 autofocus on your head not the miter😂! You know how I know!!
Ahhh yes! Disrespect manual focus and it will always find a way to shin kick you at a critical point🤣!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter 😂😭
Dammit tooooo blurrrrrryyyyy! Cool though. Glad to learn about this product. Nicely done! Better than randomly nailing corners any which way
Good video & tips! Like others - please cut the music. I rather hear you. Some mentioned out of square door frames. Can't I just nail the top, a foot or so down each side and then adjust the trim a little to the rest of the frame? Thanks again.
This was back in my bad music mixing days🙃
@@TheFunnyCarpenter ~ Great presentations don't need musical accompaniments and you certainly qualify. :-)
The way the light falls on the corner at 3:43 it looks like its two different casings.
Nice
this method only works if jambs are straight and square, trim must be straight as well otherwise you end up with widely varying reveals
I do that mostly on cabinet crowns..
Definitely works well for that
i like the ,assembly first idea , but while you have the C.A. glue out ,insted of using joint filler , put some C.A. glue on there and dust some baking soda over it, it dries instantly , and is much more durable and sticks better than fillers , so when you go to paint , you're not pulling your filler off with the brush or roller , i was shown that years ago at the ibanez guitar distributor , but it's just becoming popular lately, but ya man , we used it for everything , it was our duck tape
only works if your walls and jams are level/square and not proud or recessed.
There's tricks to make this work for almost all scenarios just takes a bit of practice.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter , yeah you roll the miter.
My brother and I work together. He hates when I pull out that glue to do my miters lol. He doesnt see the obvious value in this step like others in the comments. My opinion is 1. Its worth it as its one of the best ways to have a profressional perfect product. 2. If its not worth it for the pay on the job, then you priced the job incorrectly.....mike drop lol. Customer doesnt like the price for my perfect work, then they want someone else.
You should not use the activator in situations like this. The glue dries in about three minutes and the chances of you gluing it up un square greatly outweighs the three minutes you have to wait.seriously, a couple minutes….
After that sinka trim screw in top corners
This works only if your door/window is level and plumb.
Printable caulk
this is a great video. But the background music is loud enough to be foreground music.
💯👍👍
Next video: how to make perfect in focus videos.
big spray and small glue bottle. Reverse that.
And if your door jambs are out of square your shit out of luck.
if the door shuts, this will work.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter has nothing to do with the door though.
You have to be seriously out of square for this method to not work. The architrave flexes enough to cater for being a bit out of square
Man you better hope your cuts are right on! 😳
I used to use Drydex...now I use a product called Shur...much better finish
Three comments:
First, you could have made clear that what you have there is a standard CA glue and an activator. Starbond makes lots of versions for woodworkers. But even dollar store gel superglue works fine.
Second, the risk of dripping onto the surface below is big, so you need to pay attention to what you are gluing it on top of, lest your work stick to it!.
Third, your technique at 1:57 had you spraying the activator towards the glued surface, and even a little bit of overspray that reached that glue would have turned the whole thing hard in moments.
You announced the product too quickly. Should have held it up to camera so we could clearly see the glue product.
Great point. The glue is a CA glue with an activator. The stuff I use is made by FastCap called 2P-10.
Good vid but the music is very distracting.
Good video, but the music is a distraction. Too loud, and doesn't contribute to the message.
Good tip, Good video, pointless music detracting from commentary.
Noted
@@TheFunnyCarpenter i liked the music
Where is your eye protection when using your power nailer? Its hard to go do good miters when you are blind...
Lol . Reminds me of Wylie Coyote's acme pack. Maybe time is more important. Caulk anyone?
I will say this trick is nice but this is probably a newer house. Try doing this in a house 100 years or older with original plaster lmao
Pretty blurry.
You are great Carpenter- communicator. Ditch that annoying music!
Great channel, but the music should be dropped. It persistently overrides your voice. 👍
Good Criticism, I made this video before I knew how to mix audio.
Do not fit architraves like this ,love to see this technique on a frame thats not square ,especially in an old house
Your narration is hard to understand sometimes,like when you are looking down, and the annoying music. You don’t need the music. If you are doing a bunch of work without narration, yeah, then the music is fine.
🙃this was one of first few videos. Work in progress, thanks for the feedback.
No good if it's a old frame that's not square then you have to fit them individually.
If I can’t even get them to line up perfect who gives a shit about spray and glue. Cutting 45 each side won’t line up
How strange we don't glue Architraves in Australia, we just cut them to fit properly..
Exactly!...
@@frankhornby6873 I have never seen a Carpenter in Australia that does not glue their mitres.
I'm a retired joiner of 45 yrs....I can't imagine taking all this extra unnecessary time to fix architrave to houses on site....I wouldn't make any bonus pay!....just cut it right first time and fix it direct to the door casing!...simple..👍🏻
I agree it is quicker to nail the head on then the legs adding a bit of PVA but this gives a better finish. Whatever method you use you certainly only need to mark and cut once, non of this rechecking nonsense.
I cant imagine taking this long on caseing a white finger jointed pine caseing that is getting filler and painted. Not hating. Miters look great. But dang that a lot of fiddling around. For fjp.
Must be a union guy.
He said easiest, not fastest. This is for people who do this a few times in their life, not professionals
@@jedadiahsmith6003 you’re going to spend more time filling and sanding a joint than using mitre glue
Your music it’s too loud, sorry
Takes to long.
it doesnt if you dispense with the rechecking bit
Wayyyyyyy to much time..just cut your miters right and with good saw and you don't have to go threw all that sill crap
This is absolutely the way to lose money who has time for this
3:05 "Bring The Tip In" that's what she said lol
get rid of the music, it makes it hard to hear you
Get rid of the music
Why is there overbearing music? I can't watch it, man.
Your previous videos were very good. THIS ONE IS NOT! NO NEED FOR ANY ANNOYING LOUD BACKGROUND MUSIC! THUMBS DOWN
1
*Why do we need dingly “music” louder than the voice? FAIL!*
Who wears sneakers to work that very safe
annoying loud crap music..christ
now do a video on how to get perfect blur on your videos