Question. But first, great video. You always produce fantastic content. After watching this video, it got me thinking. Have you ever seen a trim detail where the casings were meant to have these rolled miters? E.g., the window jambs are intentionally, say, 3/4" proud and you must use this technique because the designer/homeowner wanted the look that creates? It seems like if it were done tastefully it could look really good.
I have run lots of crown but never saw a crown fence. I love it! Last summer I was cutting aluminum cove with a lighting channel for up- lighting at a compound angle. Holding by hand (not a good idea), it came loose, hit my blade and I now have a wobble in the blade that I am now repairing. Had I known about a crown fence this would not have happened. 67 and still learning. Thank you!
This is an absolutely phenomenal video and you are an excellent teacher! I learned so much extremely valuable information and you explained everything so well! Im so grateful to have found your channel and content! Im feeling a bit more confident to cut and install all my crown molding and window trim and floor trim I am attempting to put in myself. Thank you so very much!!! 🎉 Yes,n this is absolutely essential information!
We used to back plane the jamb leaving and 1/8 flat, most sheetrock was 3/8 and a jamb of 4-9/16, this way has made life easier, I like the step gauge, time to order one.
This is just absolutely SO HELPFUL. Between you, RR Builders’s, Awesome Framer, Framing Beast and Gary Katz just to name a few, your videos help me immensely. Keep them coming great content.
Huge important video right here .... you do a superb job on these and hope more people see this .... this video shows the BEST tip. Bravo. Hope you had a delightful long Holiday Weekend. Thanks Spencer
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, I have been struggling with miter cuts for several years and I just recently found your video and I tried it at work and it worked great, you literally saved my job and now I feel confident that I will improve the quality of my work. Thank you so much
I really appreciate your time and effort to explain such vital technic to have perfect miter joint. Thanks for the best presentation and going thorough all the possible options of how could be the situation if it's proud off the dry wall or far from it. Specially using a drill bit was a game changer. I really thank you dear Spender.
This is going to be a big help on a remodel we're about to trim out. Great info as always from you Spencer. I'd love to come spend a week or two with you just learning.
It's a shame that the generation from 1970-80 worker they were given the wisdom they were taught by old timer. But had stick in there butt to not going help you make you better fu . Your not taking my job or I just don't care. I was taught this by guy 5 yrs ago he was his 70s
You are giving away my hard earned secrets, learned and over many years, drill bits are a good idea. This technique can help to account for ceiling slopes on crown, Great video... videos btw
I’ve used this many times but it does get squirrelly sometimes if the window is small and not a consistent gap all around. Then you’re twisting the trim the fit the next miter. Longer trim runs are fine usually.
Wholly crap! So simple yet brilliant. I enjoy all of your videos Spencer but this one had me swearing out loud ( in a good way). The drill bit tip, man, we’ve all got them with us and totally missed using. Great video
Very well explained sir. Back before the power miter saws were invented I used my block plane to doctor the joints. At that time streamline casing was being used and it seemed to work okay. Without access to air nailers at that time it was quite a chore and interesting to pound a joint together with a hammer. I bet a bunch of you Young bucks haven't ever done that , give it a try sometime. ha ha. Thank you for the video.
I've taken old casing apart that had the old bent, hand driven finish nail in the corner...but I've definitely never had to install with hand driven nails myself. LOL
Good video and excellent work. I've done a lot of trimming and haven't thought of this, utilizing the block plane instead. I like the idea of cutting the angles directly on the miter saw, but am a little leery of having a loose steel gauge or drill bit that close to the spinning blade . . .
Even preassembled miters will crack at the joint over time. It’s better to shim out the back on 1/16 to an 1/8 and let the caulk to the wall handle the rest. This is especially essential on profiled casing. Either way I love the rolled miter technique. Keep up the great craftsmanship
Old school back in the day we were used to take a shim and stick it back there that's what the old timers used to do. And then when they came out with the compound miter saw you would adjust the compound. I like old school because it teaches you how to use your compound miter saw to its full potential. A lot of guys do not, do not know how to use their compound miter saw to its full potential for sure
The problem with using the compound miter saw is that you don't know the angle you need to set it at. Cutting it nested solves that problem and really doesn't take much time once you've done it a few times.
This is awesome! I just trimmed a door yesterday where the jamb was shy the face of the drywall. I usually tweak the header trim, and get less than perfect results.
I am a retired carpenter stuck in the old ways. All the windows that I trimmed Had a stool or sill. Running crown molding, The first piece should be square cut and butt into the corner. The next piece should be coped to fit. I prefer to compound cut the piece that I cope. The coped corner won't open later after the heat and air is turned on and the house dries. We also kept flour on our hands when the trim got stained. The flower prevented the oil on our hands from getting on the wood.
As far as the flat casing/ no profile (approx at 15:35) installed on a window jamb thats proud(usually due to someone not ordering the right size windows, or when someone was/was not expecting 2 layers of sheetrock-maybe sound proofing)... rather than use a hand plane on the window jamb why would you not rip some material on the table saw to use as an extension for the back side of the casing(just like a jamb extension). You can add an extension to the outer edge of the back side of the casing with glue or by using short pins shot through the extension into the back of the casing and all the holes would be covered too. If your talking 1/2" or more it's near certainly going to be an issue around multiple or all new windows/doors and it's going to be pretty close to the same throughout.
Awesome video. I would have shimmed the casing off the wall and let the painters calk the crap out of the gap. Not saying I’m a hack but the builder wouldn’t pay what it’s worth to do it right
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Here is the amazon affiliate link to the "Stepped Pipe Gauge" - amzn.to/3q7tZIR
Thanks for your support!
That tiny wedge is $100 for what it is that seems a bit pricy
One of the best trick i have leared today. thanks you lot.
Aquarium⁷q 11th qq
Question. But first, great video. You always produce fantastic content.
After watching this video, it got me thinking. Have you ever seen a trim detail where the casings were meant to have these rolled miters? E.g., the window jambs are intentionally, say, 3/4" proud and you must use this technique because the designer/homeowner wanted the look that creates? It seems like if it were done tastefully it could look really good.
Immediately bought both tools!
This is why I love RUclips! Just learned something awesome
I have run lots of crown but never saw a crown fence. I love it! Last summer I was cutting aluminum cove with a lighting channel for up- lighting at a compound angle. Holding by hand (not a good idea), it came loose, hit my blade and I now have a wobble in the blade that I am now repairing. Had I known about a crown fence this would not have happened.
67 and still learning.
Thank you!
I literally used this trick today on a old bay window that had a proud jamb on one corner and it worked like a charm!! Thanks for the tip!
Wow words can't describe how much this changes my work. Thank you
This is excellent instruction. Thank you for all the great tips and meticulous demonstration. Teaching is a lot of work- you do it well.
This is an absolutely phenomenal video and you are an excellent teacher! I learned so much extremely valuable information and you explained everything so well! Im so grateful to have found your channel and content! Im feeling a bit more confident to cut and install all my crown molding and window trim and floor trim I am attempting to put in myself. Thank you so very much!!! 🎉 Yes,n this is absolutely essential information!
Really money tip! 20 year carpenter…never heard of this. Super slick.
Just amazingly simple. I’d never come across this tip before. Thanks so much.
We used to back plane the jamb leaving and 1/8 flat, most sheetrock was 3/8 and a jamb of 4-9/16, this way has made life easier, I like the step gauge, time to order one.
This was one of the most detailed moldings. It was very well explained. WOW
Been doing this for many years. Only i would use a slither of wood or a shim under the casing when i cut it. That gauge is cool.
Wow! What a super hack this is! What a great tip and trick!!! Brilliant!
This is just absolutely SO HELPFUL. Between you, RR Builders’s, Awesome Framer, Framing Beast and Gary Katz just to name a few, your videos help me immensely. Keep them coming great content.
Outstanding craftsmanship and quality tip. Thank you, from an extreme amateur.
Huge important video right here .... you do a superb job on these and hope more people see this .... this video shows the BEST tip. Bravo. Hope you had a delightful long Holiday Weekend. Thanks Spencer
Such a good carpenter!
Such a good teacher!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, I have been struggling with miter cuts for several years and I just recently found your video and I tried it at work and it worked great, you literally saved my job and now I feel confident that I will improve the quality of my work. Thank you so much
I really appreciate your time and effort to explain such vital technic to have perfect miter joint. Thanks for the best presentation and going thorough all the possible options of how could be the situation if it's proud off the dry wall or far from it. Specially using a drill bit was a game changer. I really thank you dear Spender.
This is going to be a big help on a remodel we're about to trim out. Great info as always from you Spencer. I'd love to come spend a week or two with you just learning.
ahhhh.....you made me smile. That's magic for finish carpenters. Thanks for sharing that one.
Simply, easy, smart...subscribed. Thanks for sharing.
Man this is going to save me some time. No more compound cuts on the saw just you a depth gage thanks
Cue the music… I just leveled up!! Thanks for the video. Great job!!!
Excellent tip! Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge! God bless you!
I've got 46 years as a carpenter under my belt and never thought of this and none of the people I have worked with brought it up. Thanks for the tip.
Same here. So simple!
My mind is blown!
Me 3
It's a shame that the generation from 1970-80 worker they were given the wisdom they were taught by old timer. But had stick in there butt to not going help you make you better fu . Your not taking my job or I just don't care.
I was taught this by guy 5 yrs ago he was his 70s
@@danbob1650 I'm 66 and I hope to show a young carpenter this some day.
You are giving away my hard earned secrets, learned and over many years, drill bits are a good idea.
This technique can help to account for ceiling slopes on crown,
Great video... videos btw
Quality craftsman work . Little adjustments go a long ways .
I ve always used a shim and marked it. This is a cool thing man!
Also works great with doors. Your the best at sharing our trades secrets
Simply brilliant. Thanks for sharing.
You certainly have a knack for teaching. I'm sure your Bible study students appreciate it as well!
Wish I’d seen this a week ago Spencer! :) You would have saved me a lot of work/time.
Thank you!
Now that's a nice tip. Thanks for posting.
I think the 200k subs is only the beginning much respect to you young man!
Thanks so much. Pure genius to solve a common problem.
thank you for making this. God bless.
I’ve used this many times but it does get squirrelly sometimes if the window is small and not a consistent gap all around. Then you’re twisting the trim the fit the next miter. Longer trim runs are fine usually.
I tried this trick on a door trim today-magnificent!
Wholly crap! So simple yet brilliant. I enjoy all of your videos Spencer but this one had me swearing out loud ( in a good way). The drill bit tip, man, we’ve all got them with us and totally missed using. Great video
Thank you sooooooo much for sharing this trick.
Very well explained sir.
Back before the power miter saws were invented I used my block plane to doctor the joints.
At that time streamline casing was being used and it seemed to work okay.
Without access to air nailers at that time it was quite a chore and interesting to pound a joint together with a hammer.
I bet a bunch of you Young bucks haven't ever done that , give it a try sometime. ha ha.
Thank you for the video.
I've taken old casing apart that had the old bent, hand driven finish nail in the corner...but I've definitely never had to install with hand driven nails myself. LOL
Good video and excellent work. I've done a lot of trimming and haven't thought of this, utilizing the block plane instead. I like the idea of cutting the angles directly on the miter saw, but am a little leery of having a loose steel gauge or drill bit that close to the spinning blade . . .
I’ve been running into this lately. Thank you so much!!
Even preassembled miters will crack at the joint over time. It’s better to shim out the back on 1/16 to an 1/8 and let the caulk to the wall handle the rest. This is especially essential on profiled casing. Either way I love the rolled miter technique. Keep up the great craftsmanship
Brilliant! Thanks Spencer!
Gold always. God Bless young man! Thanks
Thank you so much for this great video. It helped me out alot.
Hi Spencer, glad your back mate
Wow I must say I’m really impressed with this tip iv never seen this b4 thanks for sharing mate 🪚👍
Absolutely amazing thank you for the info.
Old school back in the day we were used to take a shim and stick it back there that's what the old timers used to do. And then when they came out with the compound miter saw you would adjust the compound. I like old school because it teaches you how to use your compound miter saw to its full potential. A lot of guys do not, do not know how to use their compound miter saw to its full potential for sure
The problem with using the compound miter saw is that you don't know the angle you need to set it at. Cutting it nested solves that problem and really doesn't take much time once you've done it a few times.
Brilliant tip and so simple
Okay. I’m sold.
dude! you changed my life.
Well done!
This is awesome!
Great trick! I had the same experience, you are a great teacher! Thank you so much.
Good advice. As a DIYer I would have planed the wood flush or added wood
Love it great presentation
You rock man. Great video.
golden trick ! RESPECT!!!😀
Great video. It's been a big help. Thanks for sharing. God Bless.
The best on the Internet
This is awesome! I just trimmed a door yesterday where the jamb was shy the face of the drywall. I usually tweak the header trim, and get less than perfect results.
Outstanding video
The best Pro tip ever!
Super helpful, thanks
Thank you!
Love your channel !!!
So cool ! All this networking is awesome ...
love that tip thank you so much
I am a retired carpenter stuck in the old ways. All the windows that I trimmed Had a stool or sill. Running crown molding, The first piece should be square cut and butt into the corner. The next piece should be coped to fit. I prefer to compound cut the piece that I cope. The coped corner won't open later after the heat and air is turned on and the house dries. We also kept flour on our hands when the trim got stained. The flower prevented the oil on our hands from getting on the wood.
Never though of that, thanks for shairing
This is brilliant.
Wow just wow 👌 👏 👍
Wow, this was a great video. Thanks.
Good Job man , thank you for your help I do appreciate it
Thank you for the wonderful tip .
Awesome tip! Always an issue. Gonna save me a ton of $ in complimentary tubes of caulking 😉
As far as the flat casing/ no profile (approx at 15:35) installed on a window jamb thats proud(usually due to someone not ordering the right size windows, or when someone was/was not expecting 2 layers of sheetrock-maybe sound proofing)... rather than use a hand plane on the window jamb why would you not rip some material on the table saw to use as an extension for the back side of the casing(just like a jamb extension). You can add an extension to the outer edge of the back side of the casing with glue or by using short pins shot through the extension into the back of the casing and all the holes would be covered too.
If your talking 1/2" or more it's near certainly going to be an issue around multiple or all new windows/doors and it's going to be pretty close to the same throughout.
Good info.
Golden tip!
dude you rock ! awesome tips and thanks for the videos 👍🏻
Thanks!
Excellent...........
Awesome love your videos
Very nice tech
If the drywall is proud of the jam I either install extension jams or shave the drywall back.
New sub here, your tricks and techniques are awesome, thank you!
Impressive as always 👍🏼
That was good. Really Coo!
Nice ideas 😊
Cheers bro good wisdom
Astounding
Thanks for the tip.
Nice tip
Brilliant
Electric Planer for the jamb would be my answer. Bad jamb install is bad.
Great advice, thank you... I'm now a little more intelligent 🤣👍🏻....🇬🇧
Awesome video. I would have shimmed the casing off the wall and let the painters calk the crap out of the gap. Not saying I’m a hack but the builder wouldn’t pay what it’s worth to do it right