To eliminate any angle cutting errors (upside down, inside right…etc) I always make a little outside corner and inside corner samples and label them IR IL OR OL. No more angle mistakes.
I have two templates. L/R inside corners and L/R outside corners. I sometimes hold the templates up to the blade to confirm that I am cutting the correct angle.
One other thing. The way you two work together is refreshing to say the least. I think the secret is mutual respect for one another. That's what is missing today in our society. I love having my 19 year old grandson work with me as often as possible. My neighbour surprised me the other day and said he likes listening to us work together for the same reason you guys are a good fit. Thanks Gerry from Ontario Canada
@@DeeplyConcerned68 That’s the typical know-it-all attitude that leads to becoming stagnant in your trade. You can always learn something new and you can always get better and more efficient. 👍🏻
Very beautiful work guys! Just a thought: When I've done crown I find it helpful to not fasten a piece of crown all the way to the corner until I install the next piece. By leaving a few feet free, I can roll the crown up and down to adjust my miter joint in the corner. That way, I don't have to shim against the ceiling/wall like you did.
There are some master carpenters on RUclips who demonstrate their crown molding measure /cutting/hanging techniques. Amazing how skilled they are but they do it day in day out. Stud Pack demonstrate How to perform very precise techniques to those who might occasionally use. I too like these guys for practical techniques and advice. Literally everything they do they provide a great tips!
I stumbled on this channel looking for advice for my bathroom remodel and found it. Obviously Great work, but what impresses me even more is How Paul explains in EXTREME detail how he does a procedure and why...and the very small nuances of how to account for issues like crooked walls , figuring out old work that was hacked up, using make-shift tools when better ones aren't available and general problem solving all day every day. Paul is very thorough. Nothing is easy, (I was a mechanic, body man and painter for 40 years.) There's a ton of videos with very skilled contractors out there of explaining how to...,but Paul's teaching skills are by far the best (that I have come across). Just because a person is very skilled at what they do doesn't necessarily mean they can teach it very well. I like it when Jordan chimes in, he always has a good point to get across. I love watching your videos and coming away learning something. Also the editing, audio and camera work is up close, clear and dead on. That really matters. I don't know how you guys get anything done with all the precise filming. Lol. Stellar job Jordan and Paul !! Saints suck, go Ravens! Lol
Really need a 12” compound sliding miter box. I know you said that early on, but it would have saved you a lot of headaches. Also if I could make two suggestions.. one always glue all your miters regardless if it’s an inside or outside. Also when running rooms over 16 ft, I use CA GLUE and pre assemble my piece on the ground. That way if you need a 20ft length you can get your seam perfect using that glue. I also back it with a strip of luan like 16 inches long to support the seam. Works amazing and it’s damn near impossible to find the seam after it’s painted
In almost 50 years as a building professional in Australia, I have never seen crown molding used. We use a plaster cornice - available in a countless number of profiles. The end result is identical in appearance. Plaster cornices are installed using cornice adhesive which is a very fast setting plaster.
Moulding is overpriced in the US. Unfortunately they don't have the plaster moulding around me. Polestyrene and MDF moulding is barely cheaper than pine.
I do this day in day out, mostly restoration work on old English homes, but some residential work as well. A laser is far quicker and easier. Back in the day, before laser levels were affordable, our choice of method was the good old fashioned chalk line. Personally I would advise again caulk, especially for gaps that large, filler has so many more advantages, you will get a perfect finish with little or no shrinkage and there are amazing fillers on the market that are flexible and very sandable within 24 hours. It takes a little more time, but well worth the effort. I highly recommend using adhesive alongside nails. The nails will hold the moulding whilst the adhesive dries for a beautiful bond for decades to come and no worries about expansion and contraction weakening your mechanical fixings.
When coping, a Dremel tool with a sanding drum in it, is your best friend, especially with real wood that won't be painted. It helps you fine tune over cuts. Works great with MDF but it's dusty.
@@Titantitan001 it's very gentle and you can carve in tiny increments to your line. Since you're working up close and personal a mask might not be a bad idea.
CA glue: 1) Richard sells it on the RUclips channel “finish carpentry” 2) fast cap on line was one of the first with their 2-P10 system. I’ve been using that for years. You need that for any trim work. 3) Titebond “quick and thick” used to be known as trim glue. It’s not quite as good as the CA but I’ve used it in a pinch. Again nice work!!
Yep i actually found that out myself on accident.. i got the 2p10 activator aerosol spray to use for hydrodipping.. you lay the hydro dip sheet on the top of a bath of water then you spray the activator on tge film and dip the thing.. works great. But had a bunch left over and i just thought hey activator activates stuff, i wonder if itll speed up dry times on super glue and yep, instantly dries.. you just gotta watch what you spray the stuff on though.. it will instantly make a sheet of plexy glass go limp or craze the whole surface and that cant be sanded out…. Will melt certain plastics and instantly dissolve foams..
I’ve been a carpenter for 20 years and I still learn something new from your videos. Some very helpful tricks that could’ve saved me lots of time and frustration. Awesome work. Keep it up!
Wish this video was around when I did my whole house! The one trick I used, was a whole set of templates made from scrap crown. I marked each one "outside left", outside right", "Inside right", etc...kept them under the saw for reference, and as one who has had too many close calls....EYE PROTECTION....always..... Thanks for your awesome video's!
Been watching you folks for a while now and when i started i knew nothing about remodeling (old Army medic here). I just finished my first bathroom project and it was big. Designed and did the work myself. Don't think i would have even tried it if I hadn't seen how you two tackle projects bite by bite until it's done. Thanks for the videos and the motivation!
You guys rock. You may want to get a miter guage so you can measure the angle of the corners and set the saw angle to half of the measured angle. It helps get you closer to perfection. God bless you and yours.
A super useful trick when hanging a wider crown like that is to cut triangle blocks out of 2x4 and nail them up. The crown will self-align, not have any wave in it, and if you place the block 6" or so from each corner your corners come together super easy. An old-timer I worked with for years taught me that method and I haven't hung crown on drywall without doing it sense, you always have a good nailer, you don't have to worry about cupped drywall and it just takes all the fussing and nonsense out of it.
So neat how well you guys work together and have a good time doing it. My Dad was smart and did a great job but also very hard to work with. Such a blessing to watch you two
CORNERS can be tricky, but here's the method I use that may help you. The first thing I do is cut a short piece of plywood that is the correct dimension for the crown placement on the wall from the ceiling corner. I do similar to what you did in marking the wall using my cut piece of plywood, but I only put a small mark every couple of feet. For me, the marks are not absolute but more of a general goal of where to place the crown. The true placement of the crown is derived from the corners of the room. If I'm installing crown in a left-to-right direction around the room, then I keep about a 3-foot piece of crown that is cut to mate with the piece being installed into the corner. I adjust both sides of the corner, making it higher or lower to achieve a tight fit of the miter. This is where I nail it. Sometimes it is dead-on the mark on the wall, or sometimes it's off by a 1/8th". Doesn't matter. Now I adjust and nail the crown along the wall using my marks as a guide, with the most important consideration being how well the crown mates up with the wall and ceiling. I find this process allows me to do a first-rate crown install on subpar framing, drywall hanging, or drywall finishing. Oh, and I generally install crown without a helper. I use a trim board cut just long enough to lean against the wall and support the other end of the crown at the approximate height. I've become very proficient with this method and can quickly install crown and be precise for a beautiful job.
Fantastic instructions for creating a crown jig and also for how to create a crown stop for the miter saw! Really great video. Haven't seen a better video on how to do this!
Attention to detail! I love it - from a fellow craftsman. If at all possible, I like to fill in the deepest low spots in the drywall prior to crown install. It minimizes the thickness of the caulking bead. Sometimes the joint is so big that it draws the eye. Not except-able to me. I've seen as much as 1/2" over only 3 studs. Unfortunately, this means refinishing to blend in the various areas that were filled in. Thus, the biggest down side is an added expense to the homeowner. It's all about communication and managing expectations.
I’m a 56 yo man who lost his dad at the age of 2.What I wouldn’t give to have had him around to do projects like this.I love the bond you two have with each other.And it just so happens you guys know what you are doing! I get to live vicariously through Stud Pack….and that’s okay with me.thanks guys.
Nice work guys. One thing I do is use a coping saw for most of the cut and finish off with a dremel and sanding drum on low speed to get perfect coped joints.
I found CA glue on Amazon and tried it for the first time. It's incredible, strong and easy to use. Glues anything to anything. I use it on door and window case moldings. Make your cuts, glue everything together then install it.
Great video, I did the exact same thing you did.....I made a sample of my crown and used that as a guide....worked like a charm. One other thing I did was before the installation of the crown I painted all the pieces I was going to use, so when I was done I didn't have to use a paint brush above my shoulder (my shoulders aren't what they used to be), all I had to do was caulk the few gaps that I had (one thing I really emphasize is-the less caulk you have to use, the better the job) and some touch ups on my nail holes.
Great explanation and hands on examples. You make it easy enough for woman like me who love to remodel understand your method. Great work. Thanks for sharing.
Your 90° jig might be rocking on the ceiling/wall because of the drywall mud build up. Could be skewing your lines slightly forcing you to roll the crown to get the miters right. Maybe try to clip the long 32" inside corner so it fits a little tighter. Awesome job!
That jig outer corner would be better to plane little off because corner where wall meet ceiling usually isn't chisel sharp so jig doesn't necessarily go far enough into corner.
I just LOVE how you work together and listen to eachother's inputs and really consider the other's insights and ideas!!!!! Wholesome and awesome. I had to get used to Jordan calling his father man and dude but he really does it with respect.
Looks great guys! I always wear eye protection now with a brad nailer or nail gun. A coworker hit a nail in a stud, and a brad bounced out into his cornea. The odds are very, very low for that to happen - but I can’t get his mismatched eye colors out of my head (cornea transplant from a cadaver!)
And here, although nails sometimes bounce out, getting hit with a run away air hose would be no fun. He was right in suspecting that the nail gun was dangerous from both ends.
Last time I did crown I actually used a protractor to measure the miter angle at each corner and wrote that on the wall and then adjusted my angles when cutting. Most were 44 or 46. But then again I have what must be the worst framed building in all of history, so it didn't do much good in the end. No studs were crowned in the making of my condo. The walls have waves for days, man. Nightmare.
Most walls after mudding are 44-46 degrees. That is so close a 45 will work without a gap showing. Especially on crown moulding where there is only one small contact point on the wall. The ceiling being level is the bigger problem with crown.
My house was built in 1955, I ran crown in most of it. The walls are wavy, the ceilings are not flat and the guys building it then used the worst of lumber material and probably drunk. Did it with a 10 inch running 3 x 3 crown. I found using dap caulking ( white ) in a squeeze tube works great at filling small gaps and helping to keep it in place. After you wipe away the excess, it looks like one piece.
Beautiful job guys! 1 little helpful tip. When measuring a long wall, instead of using a tape measure to measure the length of the wall. Make yourself a 100 inch stick. Put it on the wall at the ceiling, one end in the corner, mark the other end, measure the remaining length, and the to together
You guys do great work. Not sure if you know this but you can cut crown flat if you set your bevel to 33.9 and your swing to 31.6. That's how I do it now and it's so much faster and easier. Just a tip awesome work either way.
For super wavy walls and ceilings, I do a 3-piece crown by ripping base board and using the profiled part upside down as a nailer on the wall and the square part as a nailer on the ceiling. It helps give you a few extra places to hide the waviness.
Your tips are very helpful. As a homeowner that does a lot of my own work, you just made my next project much easier. Excellent job explaining and showing the specific details.
May i humbly make a suggestion? I'm 72 yr old and am a crown master. I measure, cut, cope and install by myself ... that's another story. I have come to discover that if i use a Japanese chalk line (very thin, with pin) and connect all the bottom references and install on said line, it becomes the line you see when you walk into a room and all potential waves disappear. After my corners are set and secure, i then push and fasten the top of the crown. I think you guys are "This Old House" on steroids! This old Dog has learned new tricks from Stud Pack, be safe and keep going!
Just a little tip for baseboards... I have installed a TON of baseboards and I VERY rarely have to cope a corner. Get yourself a Miter Saw Protractor. I have an aluminum one made by Saker...it was like $20. Gives you perfect angles with no gaps, everytime!!
Good stuff. My son had to go back to school after working with me over the summer. Miss him and the desire to go to work. Enjoy your time together guys! Love the videos!!
I snap lines instead of marking the wall and ceiling with a jig. That way the crown won’t follow a slightly wavy ceiling. I’ve seen crown that isn’t straight. It can be really obvious around casings below it.
Good clean, solid work, full of great tips, didn't learn anything new, but the attention to detail, and the father son relationship was just great. Finally youtube recommended something good. Tuning in for the next one. Subscribed.
I make a jig for outside and inside corners with the actual crown to avoid any confusion on measuring other stock to make a plywood jig, I rip 2x's desired depth 1/4 or so shy of depth of the belly of the crown and nail around the whole room being trimmed. No need to mark studs or joists or etc...solid blocking all the way around corner to corner and takes less time than any other way. I also use a 10 in dual bevel Dewalt and they are specifically designed to he able lay crown down and cut on a bevel and angle simultaneously when it's to tall to stand and cut on 45s and in turn no need for making a crown stop or excessive cuts to achieve 1 solid cut line using multiple attempts....lay it down for bevel and kick the saw, the Dewalt had presets near 33.6 I believe both ways...hope this helps
Learned slot. Anything coped => Dremel is your best friend. I usually write on either side of the blade “left inside/right outside” & “left outside/right inside” to help me remember which end I am cutting off. Because as Jordan said “it tough to think upside down.
We decided to redo all the molding in our house after repainting. And in doing so we decided we liked the rounded outside corners too. Installing base, chair-rail and crown takes on a whole new meaning. But it is doable if you take your time. Everything came out great...
I may never install a crown molding, but your video was well worth the time to view. I felt like I was watching one of the professionally produced DIY shows one might see on Saturday TV, and that is a complement. Well done on the editing, the videoing, the content, and dad you missed your calling as an on screen personality...all well done.
Nice work guys! Another way to get 100% nailing surface and not use adhesive is to rip a 2x4 or 2x6, depending on your crown/cove size diagonally to the crown spring angle making sure when nailed to the wall and ceiling you have about a 1/4" gap to adjust between crown back and 2x face. Chamfer 90% corners at wall/ceiling so you can secure tight. Nail or screw into the double or single top plate, studs & joists, now you have 100% solid wood for top and bottom nailing. Super tight joints especially with stain-grade where you can't hide imperfections with caulk. Been using this method over 40 years, have never had a call-back. Yes, it takes a bit longer but it's worth it. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
Great vid. Great tips. I have a 12" double swing miter saw that works well but, its a bear to carry and set up so i usually cut my crown on the flat from back using a batt' 5.5" circular saw set at proper bevel and cut at proper angle. Then i nail off with 18 ga batt' nailer, caulk and finish coat with satin sheen paint as i go so to only move scaffild once. I work alone and fly through it quickly. Been at this for 50 years and no plan to retire completely from the trade. The 2 part glue is a help sometimes but, so is power grab instant set glue sold at lowes & home depot.
Mine is on a folding cart with wheels. The 12” saw is still heavy but the cart is a great stand and makes moving the saw around easy. I have a Rigid that I got on sale at Home Depot that is perfect for my big DeWalt miter saw. It’s easy to fold and un-fold and roll around.
I’ve always just marked my saw fence and base with a pencil reference mark for cutting nested. I like being able to roll the nested cut for fine tuning the miters/ copes. I also miter and pre assemble as much of my inside miters as possible (if the crown is large enough, you can just use blind screws from the back side). Pre assemble the miter section on the ground and put it up as one big piece.
Some people do test cuts for mitering such as 44° of 46° other tricks are to move the corners up and down to fit. Instant thin CA glue will seep in to joint and dry in 5 seconds.
The marking jig is simply brilliant! I'm stealing that idea 😎 but I'm gonna relieve that outside corner because ceiling joints aren't always perfect. Thanks for the tip! Next time you do crown, or trim... pre-assemble as much as you can. It's the best way to get perfect joints, especially for outside corners and skirt joints. I take the time to assemble as much on the floor or workbench as I can, then nail it up and fill in the rest. Jordan, tell our dad to get a bigger saw! 😁😆 Great video as always!
I was wondering about that, as any ceiling to wall joints less than perfect would obstruct placement of the jig unless the tip of the jig was rounded off to allow for it-
I just use painters tape on both pieces and super glue between the painters tape. Yeah I have to hold it a few seconds, but it’s cheap and always available. Holds great! Great video, thanks!!
Just came across your channel/watched/subscribes. Nice work, good descriptions/demonstrations. Your smiles are an extra bonus. I’ve been a carpenter/contractor for 42 years.....in the trades for 50 years. On occasion one of my 3 daughters helps on a jobsite. Ditto grandsons/grand daughters. Recently my 20 year old grandson began as an apprentice electrician. He tried college and was immediately turned off by the leftest bullshit. He loves his job and he’s on his way to great success. It has been wonderful to see him grow and learn. He has observed and learned about vehicle repair and maintenance at my side and will save thousands of $ over his lifetime doing his own fixes. He’s already talking of buying land and building a tiny house or a derivation of same. Proud of that kid. Dave Heitman dba Dave The Carpenter in Omaha. (swamped with opportunity)
I like it when you show how to solve the problems you run into like shimming to align the trim when ceilings are uneven. Also your fixturing techniques and how to locate and mark your studs for nailing. Do you ever glue your joints?
Several years ago, I did a boardroom paneling job for a corporate office board room using walnut veneer plywood and walnut trim and custom milled walnut crown molding. Not wanting to have an expensive "oops", I did this exact thing for the crown molding and it worked perfectly. If you use that crown frequently, you can mark your jig for that crown profile. Large crown is one reason I use a 12" slider
Excellent video. I love hearing your narration; using the correct technical terms for everything really is helpful for someone like me who only knows a fraction of them. It helps me learn, in context! My only criticism is the fact that you didn't publish this video one month earlier, when I was doing my kitchen's crown molding. :-P
Go to hobby lobby or any big hobby shop is loaded with the CA glue and activator spray.. now I use the thin CA.. they make some thicker. I carry both but mostly use the quick thin CA .. I always put mine together on a good smooth concrete floor if your able the night before installing. Some of my glue up splices might be a 35 ft one piece . All sanded on the face to match and ready for paint. Easier to do on the floor . Might take 4 guys to install it or to tac it in place but it's worth the extra little bit . Its a flawless seam. That won't ever separate or crack if done correctly.. NOTE**. Always put a structural cap of a thin material over splice on the back and let it be at least 6 inches on each side of seam to really give that joint support. I use two part epoxy 30 or 45 min. On the bulk of the material I'm glueing on and then leave a few areas around the edges to quick stick it in place with CA and activator to kick it off quickly. I always keep a sheet or two of 1/6 inch marine ply.. 12" x 36"" sheets for hobby projects. Boat building material or airplane. It works perfect to strengthen that splice cut on crown.. little expencive but strong as hell for it's thickness.. Ok gang good luck. Great video. 💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸
Just did crown mouldings for my daughter in her house in Taiwan. Used a mitre box and hand saw. Most was brick or concrete so nail gun was useless. Had to glue and hold in place till dry. As mouldings were plastic extrusion and some walls and ceilings weren't straight so had some fun. Test fitted corners and adjusted, marked and glued to close gaps. Didn't have help.
I make separate smaller pieces to mark top and bottom of crown projection on wall/ceiling and mark it laboriously. Your jig is much better idea! Gonna try it - thanks! The cordless oscillating tool is killer for the shims - love that thing - works so fast. 👍
PS that double beaded crown is pretty and I learned that the MDF will mess with the cope. Sucks. I miter the corners too. I pin nail (1-3/4”) the crown a few feet from the corners. Holds it up while allowing me to move the piece a bit to get that miter tight.
Great work guys. I just trimmed out my house. Not a Proffesional, but let me tell you, a lot of back-n- forth to the saw. 😂 Wife finally got to see what all is involved. Turned out not too bad for a weekend warrior. She’s happy and that’s what counts. Keep it up guys, love your videos. 👍🏼
8:13 the other thing about making your own crown jig; don’t have to deal/mess with the ones that come with miter saw…..which can be bad, really bad, usable, and ok😉. IMO, and think for most ppl who do crown often; they have their own jig and method “to the madness”😁 This entire job has turned out great, did awesome job on the beam, transitions, and the countertops 👍🏻👍🏻. Very nice✌🏻
These tips are great! That line/jig tip is also great because it helps you identify and correct slight imperfections in the material… you may not notice those imperfections while installing if you didn’t have a reference line. You’ll definitely notice them after having a chance to step back and look at it. Ever have problems with the sharp corner of that jig throwing off your line? I’ve installed a couple rooms of solid oak crown… solid wood is almost never perfectly straight. A laser level was helpful but your suggestions would have made this so much easier. A level doesn’t guarantee the ceiling is straight and level. The stud marks are also a great idea. Do you guys ever glue the joints on crown? I heard you talk about CA glue, but didn’t know if you used anything else currently. If not, ever have problems with joints pulling apart? Very well made video… I’m saving this one. Thanks for sharing!
Really enjoy your show its fun to watch people dont relize how hard it is to cut and fit that stuff i,ve done a lot but i aint no master at all . I think it takes a lifetime to get good at it .you guys are doing a bangup job now
I always enjoy your videos. The Father & Son comradeship & teamwork is great. Building a great relationship while building each project is awesome to watch. Respect ;). I wanted to tell your son to be cautious using any type of nailer whether finish or Brad nailer ricochets can happen & safety glasses would be a good idea when using any nail guns. I know a lot of carpenters do not like to wear them but wanted to at least bring up that ricochets can happen if a nail hits a hidden screw or framing nail or hidden metal behind drywall. I always feel like I should say something because if I don’t maybe I will regret it. ;). I definitely do not want that & with some do it yourselfers watching videos might be a good thing to mention to viewers of your videos. Continued success to you both 😁👍🏼👍🏼
I love the reality of this video . The hose pops off , the blade doesn’t go all the way through, the saw washer hits the material , it starts pouring rain . Just another day on the job . Great video , love the magnet trick. Whats missing is the lumps on the walls and ceiling that always messes with your pencil lines .
Good idea on your jig. I have used similar jigs marking the walls and ceilings but not at my saw area. Very seldom have I installed crown that is small enough to use it that way. Coping has been the norm for me. Good video.
I'm just a diy'er and updating a friend's old house built in the 50's or so. This house does not have a single straight, level, square or plumb wall in it, most are a combination of all 4. Non symmetrical Crown molding is very confusing (for me) on a straight, square wall. You have to really think and get creative especalially when you have to do it all by yourself, and you're a perfectionist. I appreciate the tips you give us, you are awesome!! subbed. Please show us your methods for accurately measuring for in/outside corners and where on the molding you put your cut marks. . . .
Great job guys! Just something that I picked up along the way. Sections of ceilings that don't have trusses to nail to. I put a nailer strip back behind the crown with a back chamfer to not interfere with crown. Although liquid nails is probably cheaper than a 2*4 these days haha.
Great tips, i like the block idea. I used to just measure down. Really need to carry a magnet with me. Just this week working on a kitchen install, crown on cabinets was different that crown on walls, would like to see your tips of bring two different profiles of crown together? I scribed and worked the pieces till they married well. But would love to see your take on it. Thanks Great channel. 56 been doing this my whole life, still learning. Thanks again
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
Love watching this father and son. Reminds me of the days I was able to work with my father in construction, I miss him so! Thanks guys.
To eliminate any angle cutting errors (upside down, inside right…etc) I always make a little outside corner and inside corner samples and label them IR IL OR OL. No more angle mistakes.
Great tip thx 👍
I have two templates. L/R inside corners and L/R outside corners. I sometimes hold the templates up to the blade to confirm that I am cutting the correct angle.
One other thing.
The way you two work together is refreshing to say the least. I think the secret is mutual respect for one another. That's what is missing today in our society.
I love having my 19 year old grandson work with me as often as possible.
My neighbour surprised me the other day and said he likes listening to us work together for the same reason you guys are a good fit.
Thanks
Gerry from Ontario Canada
It's cozy and fun 😃
Your attention to detail is top notch. I’m a carpenter/ remodeler for 30 + years and I always pick up little things from your videos.
Thanks RWCR 💪🏼 there are so many Finish Carpenters who we love learning from. Having the right tools for the job makes a huge difference.
Ok noob. If you been doing this 30+year you need to quit and get a new job bruhhh.
@@DeeplyConcerned68 That’s the typical know-it-all attitude that leads to becoming stagnant in your trade. You can always learn something new and you can always get better and more efficient. 👍🏻
Very beautiful work guys! Just a thought: When I've done crown I find it helpful to not fasten a piece of crown all the way to the corner until I install the next piece. By leaving a few feet free, I can roll the crown up and down to adjust my miter joint in the corner. That way, I don't have to shim against the ceiling/wall like you did.
Me too…. 20 years ago.
Agreed…. having the “roll” makes the corner fitting much easier..!!
Exactly...
What do you mean by "rolling" the crown?
@@erichsh58 not having the crown bedded on the back side FLAT against the ceiling and wall on the 45 ° profile
There are some master carpenters on RUclips who demonstrate their crown molding measure /cutting/hanging techniques. Amazing how skilled they are but they do it day in day out. Stud Pack demonstrate
How to perform very precise techniques to those who might occasionally use. I too like these guys for practical techniques and advice. Literally everything they do they provide a great tips!
Great tips in your video, I’ll be sure to use some of your suggested tips.
I stumbled on this channel looking for advice for my bathroom remodel and found it. Obviously Great work, but what impresses me even more is How Paul explains in EXTREME detail how he does a procedure and why...and the very small nuances of how to account for issues like crooked walls , figuring out old work that was hacked up, using make-shift tools when better ones aren't available and general problem solving all day every day. Paul is very thorough. Nothing is easy, (I was a mechanic, body man and painter for 40 years.) There's a ton of videos with very skilled contractors out there of explaining how to...,but Paul's teaching skills are by far the best (that I have come across). Just because a person is very skilled at what they do doesn't necessarily mean they can teach it very well. I like it when Jordan chimes in, he always has a good point to get across. I love watching your videos and coming away learning something. Also the editing, audio and camera work is up close, clear and dead on. That really matters. I don't know how you guys get anything done with all the precise filming. Lol. Stellar job Jordan and Paul !! Saints suck, go Ravens! Lol
Really need a 12” compound sliding miter box. I know you said that early on, but it would have saved you a lot of headaches. Also if I could make two suggestions.. one always glue all your miters regardless if it’s an inside or outside. Also when running rooms over 16 ft, I use CA GLUE and pre assemble my piece on the ground. That way if you need a 20ft length you can get your seam perfect using that glue. I also back it with a strip of luan like 16 inches long to support the seam. Works amazing and it’s damn near impossible to find the seam after it’s painted
Cool thx 👍👊
The son with a dad joke "Mark WALLburg" 🤣
In almost 50 years as a building professional in Australia, I have never seen crown molding used. We use a plaster cornice - available in a countless number of profiles. The end result is identical in appearance. Plaster cornices are installed using cornice adhesive which is a very fast setting plaster.
Moulding is overpriced in the US.
Unfortunately they don't have the plaster moulding around me.
Polestyrene and MDF moulding is barely cheaper than pine.
I do this day in day out, mostly restoration work on old English homes, but some residential work as well. A laser is far quicker and easier. Back in the day, before laser levels were affordable, our choice of method was the good old fashioned chalk line.
Personally I would advise again caulk, especially for gaps that large, filler has so many more advantages, you will get a perfect finish with little or no shrinkage and there are amazing fillers on the market that are flexible and very sandable within 24 hours. It takes a little more time, but well worth the effort.
I highly recommend using adhesive alongside nails. The nails will hold the moulding whilst the adhesive dries for a beautiful bond for decades to come and no worries about expansion and contraction weakening your mechanical fixings.
When coping, a Dremel tool with a sanding drum in it, is your best friend, especially with real wood that won't be painted. It helps you fine tune over cuts. Works great with MDF but it's dusty.
I’ve always used a fly wheel but I should try this for the more difficult ones
@@Titantitan001 it's very gentle and you can carve in tiny increments to your line. Since you're working up close and personal a mask might not be a bad idea.
CA glue: 1) Richard sells it on the RUclips channel “finish carpentry” 2) fast cap on line was one of the first with their 2-P10 system. I’ve been using that for years. You need that for any trim work. 3) Titebond “quick and thick” used to be known as trim glue. It’s not quite as good as the CA but I’ve used it in a pinch. Again nice work!!
Saved my life installing crown on top of kitchen cabinets that were too close to ceiling!
Yep👍🏻 use fast cap 2p10 gel w/ activator (a fav) along with Ca glue thick etc… and not only does Rich sell it, but can get from Amazon usually.
Ur a good man big Bob.
also to add with regards to angle grinder and coping you can also just use a dremel tool. I find it much easier to use as well to cope
Yep i actually found that out myself on accident.. i got the 2p10 activator aerosol spray to use for hydrodipping.. you lay the hydro dip sheet on the top of a bath of water then you spray the activator on tge film and dip the thing.. works great. But had a bunch left over and i just thought hey activator activates stuff, i wonder if itll speed up dry times on super glue and yep, instantly dries.. you just gotta watch what you spray the stuff on though.. it will instantly make a sheet of plexy glass go limp or craze the whole surface and that cant be sanded out…. Will melt certain plastics and instantly dissolve foams..
My FAV Home remodeling channel.. on RUclips or TV..... The amount of details and knowledge i have learned from watching is fantastic.
I’ve been a carpenter for 20 years and I still learn something new from your videos. Some very helpful tricks that could’ve saved me lots of time and frustration. Awesome work. Keep it up!
Awesome thx Bill 👊
Wish this video was around when I did my whole house! The one trick I used, was a whole set of templates made from scrap crown. I marked each one "outside left", outside right", "Inside right", etc...kept them under the saw for reference, and as one who has had too many close calls....EYE PROTECTION....always..... Thanks for your awesome video's!
I've been doing it for a few years and still have my cheater pieces to reference when I have a ton of stuff on my mind 😆
Been watching you folks for a while now and when i started i knew nothing about remodeling (old Army medic here). I just finished my first bathroom project and it was big. Designed and did the work myself. Don't think i would have even tried it if I hadn't seen how you two tackle projects bite by bite until it's done. Thanks for the videos and the motivation!
We love to here that MSG! Congrats on the finished project and here’s to the next one! 🍻
You guys rock. You may want to get a miter guage so you can measure the angle of the corners and set the saw angle to half of the measured angle. It helps get you closer to perfection. God bless you and yours.
A super useful trick when hanging a wider crown like that is to cut triangle blocks out of 2x4 and nail them up. The crown will self-align, not have any wave in it, and if you place the block 6" or so from each corner your corners come together super easy. An old-timer I worked with for years taught me that method and I haven't hung crown on drywall without doing it sense, you always have a good nailer, you don't have to worry about cupped drywall and it just takes all the fussing and nonsense out of it.
So neat how well you guys work together and have a good time doing it. My Dad was smart and did a great job but also very hard to work with. Such a blessing to watch you two
Thx 👊💪
Maybe you were the one who was hard to work with. 🤔
@@johnleach4703 Yes, maybe so
CORNERS can be tricky, but here's the method I use that may help you.
The first thing I do is cut a short piece of plywood that is the correct dimension for the crown placement on the wall from the ceiling corner. I do similar to what you did in marking the wall using my cut piece of plywood, but I only put a small mark every couple of feet. For me, the marks are not absolute but more of a general goal of where to place the crown.
The true placement of the crown is derived from the corners of the room. If I'm installing crown in a left-to-right direction around the room, then I keep about a 3-foot piece of crown that is cut to mate with the piece being installed into the corner. I adjust both sides of the corner, making it higher or lower to achieve a tight fit of the miter. This is where I nail it. Sometimes it is dead-on the mark on the wall, or sometimes it's off by a 1/8th". Doesn't matter. Now I adjust and nail the crown along the wall using my marks as a guide, with the most important consideration being how well the crown mates up with the wall and ceiling.
I find this process allows me to do a first-rate crown install on subpar framing, drywall hanging, or drywall finishing.
Oh, and I generally install crown without a helper. I use a trim board cut just long enough to lean against the wall and support the other end of the crown at the approximate height. I've become very proficient with this method and can quickly install crown and be precise for a beautiful job.
if you allow blade to come to stop before raising it will lessen change of backside tear out.
I install crown the same exact way. I do add some titebond in the miters though. Keeps them tight down the road as things expand and contract.
Fantastic instructions for creating a crown jig and also for how to create a crown stop for the miter saw! Really great video. Haven't seen a better video on how to do this!
There’s only a handful of real trade man who take their work to the next level you’re one of them 🙌🙌🙌
Attention to detail! I love it - from a fellow craftsman. If at all possible, I like to fill in the deepest low spots in the drywall prior to crown install. It minimizes the thickness of the caulking bead. Sometimes the joint is so big that it draws the eye. Not except-able to me. I've seen as much as 1/2" over only 3 studs. Unfortunately, this means refinishing to blend in the various areas that were filled in. Thus, the biggest down side is an added expense to the homeowner. It's all about communication and managing expectations.
I’m a 56 yo man who lost his dad at the age of 2.What I wouldn’t give to have had him around to do projects like this.I love the bond you two have with each other.And it just so happens you guys know what you are doing! I get to live vicariously through Stud Pack….and that’s okay with me.thanks guys.
Nice work guys. One thing I do is use a coping saw for most of the cut and finish off with a dremel and sanding drum on low speed to get perfect coped joints.
I found CA glue on Amazon and tried it for the first time. It's incredible, strong and easy to use. Glues anything to anything. I use it on door and window case moldings. Make your cuts, glue everything together then install it.
Add tightbond 2 also then it will last forever
For us newbies I'm glad you had in perfections and show how to normally correct them.
Looks good.
Great video, I did the exact same thing you did.....I made a sample of my crown and used that as a guide....worked like a charm. One other thing I did was before the installation of the crown I painted all the pieces I was going to use, so when I was done I didn't have to use a paint brush above my shoulder (my shoulders aren't what they used to be), all I had to do was caulk the few gaps that I had (one thing I really emphasize is-the less caulk you have to use, the better the job) and some touch ups on my nail holes.
Cool thx 👍
Great explanation and hands on examples. You make it easy enough for woman like me who love to remodel understand your method. Great work. Thanks for sharing.
Our pleasure Felicia 👍
Your 90° jig might be rocking on the ceiling/wall because of the drywall mud build up. Could be skewing your lines slightly forcing you to roll the crown to get the miters right. Maybe try to clip the long 32" inside corner so it fits a little tighter. Awesome job!
That jig outer corner would be better to plane little off because corner where wall meet ceiling usually isn't chisel sharp so jig doesn't necessarily go far enough into corner.
I'm watching this one year later and still loving it. Great lighting, resolution, and music!
Your videos really promote common sense approaches, techniques and soltions to projects. Good verbal descriptions and dialog. Thank You!
I just LOVE how you work together and listen to eachother's inputs and really consider the other's insights and ideas!!!!!
Wholesome and awesome.
I had to get used to Jordan calling his father man and dude but he really does it with respect.
Looks great guys! I always wear eye protection now with a brad nailer or nail gun. A coworker hit a nail in a stud, and a brad bounced out into his cornea. The odds are very, very low for that to happen - but I can’t get his mismatched eye colors out of my head (cornea transplant from a cadaver!)
And here, although nails sometimes bounce out, getting hit with a run away air hose would be no fun. He was right in suspecting that the nail gun was dangerous from both ends.
The cuts are so good, there's nothing that caulk won't fix. Learned so much as usual... so grateful...
Last time I did crown I actually used a protractor to measure the miter angle at each corner and wrote that on the wall and then adjusted my angles when cutting. Most were 44 or 46. But then again I have what must be the worst framed building in all of history, so it didn't do much good in the end. No studs were crowned in the making of my condo. The walls have waves for days, man. Nightmare.
Plumb and square people!
Most walls after mudding are 44-46 degrees. That is so close a 45 will work without a gap showing. Especially on crown moulding where there is only one small contact point on the wall. The ceiling being level is the bigger problem with crown.
Haha, my house is crooked and even the walls are wavy. I would be so glad to have even one wall be at 44-46 degrees
My house was built in 1955, I ran crown in most of it. The walls are wavy, the ceilings are not flat and the guys building it then used the worst of lumber material and probably drunk. Did it with a 10 inch running 3 x 3 crown. I found using dap caulking ( white ) in a squeeze tube works great at filling small gaps and helping to keep it in place. After you wipe away the excess, it looks like one piece.
Wavy wall call for mural of a lake or ocean. Everyone will love the 3d effect! Lol
hey sir i have been doing interion trim for about 15 years and never seen or herd of anything like this. this is so cool i love it thanks
Beautiful job guys! 1 little helpful tip. When measuring a long wall, instead of using a tape measure to measure the length of the wall. Make yourself a 100 inch stick. Put it on the wall at the ceiling, one end in the corner, mark the other end, measure the remaining length, and the to together
I used the two part CA on all of my kitchen base board trim and it turned out perfect. Good stuff.
You guys do great work. Not sure if you know this but you can cut crown flat if you set your bevel to 33.9 and your swing to 31.6. That's how I do it now and it's so much faster and easier. Just a tip awesome work either way.
Finally someone who does it the right way
I don't do crown molding very often . Im doing some today and a lot early next year. THANK YOU for the video Very helpful!
For super wavy walls and ceilings, I do a 3-piece crown by ripping base board and using the profiled part upside down as a nailer on the wall and the square part as a nailer on the ceiling. It helps give you a few extra places to hide the waviness.
Your tips are very helpful. As a homeowner that does a lot of my own work, you just made my next project much easier. Excellent job explaining and showing the specific details.
Thank you very much Bob 👊👍
May i humbly make a suggestion?
I'm 72 yr old and am a crown master. I measure, cut, cope and install by myself ... that's another story.
I have come to discover that if i use a Japanese chalk line (very thin, with pin) and
connect all the bottom references and install on said line, it becomes the line you
see when you walk into a room and all potential waves disappear. After my corners
are set and secure, i then push and fasten the top of the crown.
I think you guys are "This Old House" on steroids!
This old Dog has learned new tricks from Stud Pack, be safe and keep going!
Just a little tip for baseboards... I have installed a TON of baseboards and I VERY rarely have to cope a corner. Get yourself a Miter Saw Protractor. I have an aluminum one made by Saker...it was like $20. Gives you perfect angles with no gaps, everytime!!
Good stuff. My son had to go back to school after working with me over the summer. Miss him and the desire to go to work. Enjoy your time together guys! Love the videos!!
Thx 👊
As a meticulous jack of all trades master of none... I love the attention to detail you boys put in all your work. Great job!
Thx Lorenzo 👍💪
I snap lines instead of marking the wall and ceiling with a jig. That way the crown won’t follow a slightly wavy ceiling. I’ve seen crown that isn’t straight. It can be really obvious around casings below it.
Good clean, solid work, full of great tips, didn't learn anything new, but the attention to detail, and the father son relationship was just great. Finally youtube recommended something good.
Tuning in for the next one. Subscribed.
Welcome Chuck! 👊🏼
Just did my first crown job this past weekend using your jig and, yeah, this is the way. Thanks.
I make a jig for outside and inside corners with the actual crown to avoid any confusion on measuring other stock to make a plywood jig, I rip 2x's desired depth 1/4 or so shy of depth of the belly of the crown and nail around the whole room being trimmed. No need to mark studs or joists or etc...solid blocking all the way around corner to corner and takes less time than any other way. I also use a 10 in dual bevel Dewalt and they are specifically designed to he able lay crown down and cut on a bevel and angle simultaneously when it's to tall to stand and cut on 45s and in turn no need for making a crown stop or excessive cuts to achieve 1 solid cut line using multiple attempts....lay it down for bevel and kick the saw, the Dewalt had presets near 33.6 I believe both ways...hope this helps
Great job as per your usual efforts. Crown is never easy especially if you’ve never done it before. Some great tips in this one too.
Learned slot. Anything coped => Dremel is your best friend. I usually write on either side of the blade “left inside/right outside” & “left outside/right inside” to help me remember which end I am cutting off. Because as Jordan said “it tough to think upside down.
Nice to see the experience being shared with the younger gentleman and how attuned to care and detail the younger dude is showing.
Thx Bob 👍
Best Video you guys ever did, been in construction over 40 years, learned a lot from this video.
We decided to redo all the molding in our house after repainting. And in doing so we decided we liked the rounded outside corners too. Installing base, chair-rail and crown takes on a whole new meaning. But it is doable if you take your time. Everything came out great...
4-1/2 grinder with non-segmented diamond blade is the a dream for coping mdf.
I may never install a crown molding, but your video was well worth the time to view. I felt like I was watching one of the professionally produced DIY shows one might see on Saturday TV, and that is a complement. Well done on the editing, the videoing, the content, and dad you missed your calling as an on screen personality...all well done.
Finish Carpentry TV RUclips channel helps me with crown moulding but yours worked out good too!!!
Nice work guys! Another way to get 100% nailing surface and not use adhesive is to rip a 2x4 or 2x6, depending on your crown/cove size diagonally to the crown spring angle making sure when nailed to the wall and ceiling you have about a 1/4" gap to adjust between crown back and 2x face. Chamfer 90% corners at wall/ceiling so you can secure tight. Nail or screw into the double or single top plate, studs & joists, now you have 100% solid wood for top and bottom nailing. Super tight joints especially with stain-grade where you can't hide imperfections with caulk. Been using this method over 40 years, have never had a call-back. Yes, it takes a bit longer but it's worth it. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
Good to see a real-world video where things aren't perfect so the viewers can see how to tackle those issues.
Great vid. Great tips.
I have a 12" double swing miter saw that works well but, its a bear to carry and set up so i usually cut my crown on the flat from back using a batt' 5.5" circular saw set at proper bevel and cut at proper angle. Then i nail off with 18 ga batt' nailer, caulk and finish coat with satin sheen paint as i go so to only move scaffild once. I work alone and fly through it quickly.
Been at this for 50 years and no plan to retire completely from the trade.
The 2 part glue is a help sometimes but, so is power grab instant set glue sold at lowes & home depot.
Mine is on a folding cart with wheels. The 12” saw is still heavy but the cart is a great stand and makes moving the saw around easy. I have a Rigid that I got on sale at Home Depot that is perfect for my big DeWalt miter saw. It’s easy to fold and un-fold and roll around.
I’ve always just marked my saw fence and base with a pencil reference mark for cutting nested. I like being able to roll the nested cut for fine tuning the miters/ copes.
I also miter and pre assemble as much of my inside miters as possible (if the crown is large enough, you can just use blind screws from the back side). Pre assemble the miter section on the ground and put it up as one big piece.
I enjoy watching the youth learn from a master. Oh how he is blessed 🙌
Some people do test cuts for mitering such as 44° of 46° other tricks are to move the corners up and down to fit. Instant thin CA glue will seep in to joint and dry in 5 seconds.
Love the painting refference at 16:24 !! Great job as always guys!
I had to scroll waaay to far to find someone else that noticed this :-)
The marking jig is simply brilliant! I'm stealing that idea 😎 but I'm gonna relieve that outside corner because ceiling joints aren't always perfect. Thanks for the tip!
Next time you do crown, or trim... pre-assemble as much as you can. It's the best way to get perfect joints, especially for outside corners and skirt joints. I take the time to assemble as much on the floor or workbench as I can, then nail it up and fill in the rest.
Jordan, tell our dad to get a bigger saw! 😁😆
Great video as always!
I was wondering about that, as any ceiling to wall joints less than perfect would obstruct placement of the jig unless the tip of the jig was rounded off to allow for it-
I just use painters tape on both pieces and super glue between the painters tape. Yeah I have to hold it a few seconds, but it’s cheap and always available. Holds great! Great video, thanks!!
Just came across your channel/watched/subscribes. Nice work, good descriptions/demonstrations. Your smiles are an extra bonus. I’ve been a carpenter/contractor for 42 years.....in the trades for 50 years. On occasion one of my 3 daughters helps on a jobsite. Ditto grandsons/grand daughters. Recently my 20 year old grandson began as an apprentice electrician. He tried college and was immediately turned off by the leftest bullshit. He loves his job and he’s on his way to great success. It has been wonderful to see him grow and learn. He has observed and learned about vehicle repair and maintenance at my side and will save thousands of $ over his lifetime doing his own fixes. He’s already talking of buying land and building a tiny house or a derivation of same. Proud of that kid. Dave Heitman dba Dave The Carpenter in Omaha. (swamped with opportunity)
I like it when you show how to solve the problems you run into like shimming to align the trim when ceilings are uneven. Also your fixturing techniques and how to locate and mark your studs for nailing. Do you ever glue your joints?
Several years ago, I did a boardroom paneling job for a corporate office board room using walnut veneer plywood and walnut trim and custom milled walnut crown molding.
Not wanting to have an expensive "oops", I did this exact thing for the crown molding and it worked perfectly.
If you use that crown frequently, you can mark your jig for that crown profile.
Large crown is one reason I use a 12" slider
Great vid. I’ve tried numerous times that resulted in worthless srap wood. Finally got it viewing this vid. 😊
I've been doing construction a long time now, but I never quit learning, thanks for the info.
Excellent video. I love hearing your narration; using the correct technical terms for everything really is helpful for someone like me who only knows a fraction of them. It helps me learn, in context! My only criticism is the fact that you didn't publish this video one month earlier, when I was doing my kitchen's crown molding. :-P
Thx 👍👍
Go to hobby lobby or any big hobby shop is loaded with the CA glue and activator spray.. now I use the thin CA.. they make some thicker. I carry both but mostly use the quick thin CA .. I always put mine together on a good smooth concrete floor if your able the night before installing. Some of my glue up splices might be a 35 ft one piece . All sanded on the face to match and ready for paint. Easier to do on the floor . Might take 4 guys to install it or to tac it in place but it's worth the extra little bit . Its a flawless seam. That won't ever separate or crack if done correctly.. NOTE**. Always put a structural cap of a thin material over splice on the back and let it be at least 6 inches on each side of seam to really give that joint support. I use two part epoxy 30 or 45 min. On the bulk of the material I'm glueing on and then leave a few areas around the edges to quick stick it in place with CA and activator to kick it off quickly. I always keep a sheet or two of 1/6 inch marine ply.. 12" x 36"" sheets for hobby projects. Boat building material or airplane. It works perfect to strengthen that splice cut on crown.. little expencive but strong as hell for it's thickness..
Ok gang good luck. Great video. 💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸
Protractor is the way to go...did mine a few years ago...for a novice, it came out pretty good. Great job Stud Pack!
Just did crown mouldings for my daughter in her house in Taiwan. Used a mitre box and hand saw. Most was brick or concrete so nail gun was useless. Had to glue and hold in place till dry. As mouldings were plastic extrusion and some walls and ceilings weren't straight so had some fun. Test fitted corners and adjusted, marked and glued to close gaps. Didn't have help.
I make separate smaller pieces to mark top and bottom of crown projection on wall/ceiling and mark it laboriously. Your jig is much better idea! Gonna try it - thanks! The cordless oscillating tool is killer for the shims - love that thing - works so fast. 👍
PS that double beaded crown is pretty and I learned that the MDF will mess with the cope. Sucks. I miter the corners too. I pin nail (1-3/4”) the crown a few feet from the corners. Holds it up while allowing me to move the piece a bit to get that miter tight.
Great work guys. I just trimmed out my house. Not a Proffesional, but let me tell you, a lot of back-n- forth to the saw. 😂 Wife finally got to see what all is involved. Turned out not too bad for a weekend warrior. She’s happy and that’s what counts. Keep it up guys, love your videos. 👍🏼
8:13 the other thing about making your own crown jig; don’t have to deal/mess with the ones that come with miter saw…..which can be bad, really bad, usable, and ok😉. IMO, and think for most ppl who do crown often; they have their own jig and method “to the madness”😁
This entire job has turned out great, did awesome job on the beam, transitions, and the countertops 👍🏻👍🏻.
Very nice✌🏻
For the air hose. Cut about an inch of hose off, slide it back in and zip tie it.
Exactly what we did 👍
Very nice job outstanding craftsmanship.
Thank You for passing on your tools of your craft.
These tips are great!
That line/jig tip is also great because it helps you identify and correct slight imperfections in the material… you may not notice those imperfections while installing if you didn’t have a reference line. You’ll definitely notice them after having a chance to step back and look at it. Ever have problems with the sharp corner of that jig throwing off your line?
I’ve installed a couple rooms of solid oak crown… solid wood is almost never perfectly straight. A laser level was helpful but your suggestions would have made this so much easier. A level doesn’t guarantee the ceiling is straight and level. The stud marks are also a great idea.
Do you guys ever glue the joints on crown? I heard you talk about CA glue, but didn’t know if you used anything else currently. If not, ever have problems with joints pulling apart?
Very well made video… I’m saving this one. Thanks for sharing!
Really enjoy your show its fun to watch people dont relize how hard it is to cut and fit that stuff i,ve done a lot but i aint no master at all . I think it takes a lifetime to get good at it .you guys are doing a bangup job now
I always enjoy your videos. The Father & Son comradeship & teamwork is great. Building a great relationship while building each project is awesome to watch. Respect ;). I wanted to tell your son to be cautious using any type of nailer whether finish or Brad nailer ricochets can happen & safety glasses would be a good idea when using any nail guns. I know a lot of carpenters do not like to wear them but wanted to at least bring up that ricochets can happen if a nail hits a hidden screw or framing nail or hidden metal behind drywall. I always feel like I should say something because if I don’t maybe I will regret it. ;). I definitely do not want that & with some do it yourselfers watching videos might be a good thing to mention to viewers of your videos. Continued success to you both 😁👍🏼👍🏼
I love carpentry! Really cool to see father son collaborations! Great work guys!
I sure do love my compound miter saw for cutting crown. Makes jigs obsolete for me.
I love the reality of this video . The hose pops off , the blade doesn’t go all the way through, the saw washer hits the material , it starts pouring rain . Just another day on the job . Great video , love the magnet trick. Whats missing is the lumps on the walls and ceiling that always messes with your pencil lines .
Good idea on your jig. I have used similar jigs marking the walls and ceilings but not at my saw area. Very seldom have I installed crown that is small enough to use it that way. Coping has been the norm for me. Good video.
Brilliant video! I cannot wait to start my project. Needs to be cooler in Texas first. Thank you for posting. Stay healthy. 😀🙀
Love watching you two work together.
I'm just a diy'er and updating a friend's old house built in the 50's or so. This house does not have a single straight, level, square or plumb wall in it, most are a combination of all 4.
Non symmetrical Crown molding is very confusing (for me) on a straight, square wall. You have to really think and get creative especalially when you have to do it all by yourself, and you're a perfectionist. I appreciate the tips you give us, you are awesome!! subbed.
Please show us your methods for accurately measuring for in/outside corners and where on the molding you put your cut marks.
.
.
.
Usually 1 of the supply houses for fine trim will usually have it. In our area there is only 1 place in a 45 mile range to get it from. Its CA glue!
Great job guys! Just something that I picked up along the way. Sections of ceilings that don't have trusses to nail to. I put a nailer strip back behind the crown with a back chamfer to not interfere with crown. Although liquid nails is probably cheaper than a 2*4 these days haha.
Cool idea thx 👍👍
Great tips, i like the block idea. I used to just measure down. Really need to carry a magnet with me. Just this week working on a kitchen install, crown on cabinets was different that crown on walls, would like to see your tips of bring two different profiles of crown together? I scribed and worked the pieces till they married well. But would love to see your take on it. Thanks Great channel. 56 been doing this my whole life, still learning. Thanks again
Now I know. I learn something new every time I watch!