THIS Piece of Wood Will Make Your Crown PERFECT
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Hey Gang! In today's video we run some crown and show you some tips and tricks along the way. We're all about eliminating human error, and this plywood jig is perfect for getting straight crown. Try it out and let us know what you think!
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To eliminate any angle cutting errors (upside down, inside right…etc) I always make a little outside corner and inside corner samples and label them IR IL OR OL. No more angle mistakes.
Great tip thx 👍
I have two templates. L/R inside corners and L/R outside corners. I sometimes hold the templates up to the blade to confirm that I am cutting the correct angle.
Really need a 12” compound sliding miter box. I know you said that early on, but it would have saved you a lot of headaches. Also if I could make two suggestions.. one always glue all your miters regardless if it’s an inside or outside. Also when running rooms over 16 ft, I use CA GLUE and pre assemble my piece on the ground. That way if you need a 20ft length you can get your seam perfect using that glue. I also back it with a strip of luan like 16 inches long to support the seam. Works amazing and it’s damn near impossible to find the seam after it’s painted
Cool thx 👍👊
Love watching this father and son. Reminds me of the days I was able to work with my father in construction, I miss him so! Thanks guys.
There are some master carpenters on RUclips who demonstrate their crown molding measure /cutting/hanging techniques. Amazing how skilled they are but they do it day in day out. Stud Pack demonstrate
How to perform very precise techniques to those who might occasionally use. I too like these guys for practical techniques and advice. Literally everything they do they provide a great tips!
Great tips in your video, I’ll be sure to use some of your suggested tips.
When coping, a Dremel tool with a sanding drum in it, is your best friend, especially with real wood that won't be painted. It helps you fine tune over cuts. Works great with MDF but it's dusty.
I’ve always used a fly wheel but I should try this for the more difficult ones
@@Titantitan001 it's very gentle and you can carve in tiny increments to your line. Since you're working up close and personal a mask might not be a bad idea.
Last time I did crown I actually used a protractor to measure the miter angle at each corner and wrote that on the wall and then adjusted my angles when cutting. Most were 44 or 46. But then again I have what must be the worst framed building in all of history, so it didn't do much good in the end. No studs were crowned in the making of my condo. The walls have waves for days, man. Nightmare.
Plumb and square people!
Most walls after mudding are 44-46 degrees. That is so close a 45 will work without a gap showing. Especially on crown moulding where there is only one small contact point on the wall. The ceiling being level is the bigger problem with crown.
Haha, my house is crooked and even the walls are wavy. I would be so glad to have even one wall be at 44-46 degrees
My house was built in 1955, I ran crown in most of it. The walls are wavy, the ceilings are not flat and the guys building it then used the worst of lumber material and probably drunk. Did it with a 10 inch running 3 x 3 crown. I found using dap caulking ( white ) in a squeeze tube works great at filling small gaps and helping to keep it in place. After you wipe away the excess, it looks like one piece.
Wavy wall call for mural of a lake or ocean. Everyone will love the 3d effect! Lol
Very beautiful work guys! Just a thought: When I've done crown I find it helpful to not fasten a piece of crown all the way to the corner until I install the next piece. By leaving a few feet free, I can roll the crown up and down to adjust my miter joint in the corner. That way, I don't have to shim against the ceiling/wall like you did.
Me too…. 20 years ago.
Agreed…. having the “roll” makes the corner fitting much easier..!!
Exactly...
What do you mean by "rolling" the crown?
@@erichsh58 not having the crown bedded on the back side FLAT against the ceiling and wall on the 45 ° profile
@6:27 your molding doesn't match your jig-scribed lines because mud build up in the corner. You could modify your L-jig by adding several angle braces and then removing about 1-2" from the inside of the L to provide clearance.
I prefer to just mark the ends and snap a line. That way I know I have a straight line on the bottom of the molding if the framing is uneven. (if there are high and low joists, a ripple in the bottom of the framing will be much more noticeable than an uneven ceiling line). Plus, it only takes 2 trips up the ladder.
You guys work well together. On large crown like that, I arrack blocking to the walls so I have good nailing. On larger crown, I use 2" or longer trim screws. I'm not a fan of using a finish gun especially on larger crown. I usually cut my crown on the flat with my 10 " slide. Keep up the good work. I'm been in business for 40 + years now. Not planning to retire. Like to see younger people learn the trade.
Finish Carpentry TV RUclips channel helps me with crown moulding but yours worked out good too!!!
One other thing.
The way you two work together is refreshing to say the least. I think the secret is mutual respect for one another. That's what is missing today in our society.
I love having my 19 year old grandson work with me as often as possible.
My neighbour surprised me the other day and said he likes listening to us work together for the same reason you guys are a good fit.
Thanks
Gerry from Ontario Canada
It's cozy and fun 😃
You guys rock. You may want to get a miter guage so you can measure the angle of the corners and set the saw angle to half of the measured angle. It helps get you closer to perfection. God bless you and yours.
The son with a dad joke "Mark WALLburg" 🤣
Looks great guys! I always wear eye protection now with a brad nailer or nail gun. A coworker hit a nail in a stud, and a brad bounced out into his cornea. The odds are very, very low for that to happen - but I can’t get his mismatched eye colors out of my head (cornea transplant from a cadaver!)
And here, although nails sometimes bounce out, getting hit with a run away air hose would be no fun. He was right in suspecting that the nail gun was dangerous from both ends.
Your attention to detail is top notch. I’m a carpenter/ remodeler for 30 + years and I always pick up little things from your videos.
Thanks RWCR 💪🏼 there are so many Finish Carpenters who we love learning from. Having the right tools for the job makes a huge difference.
Ok noob. If you been doing this 30+year you need to quit and get a new job bruhhh.
@@DeeplyConcerned68 That’s the typical know-it-all attitude that leads to becoming stagnant in your trade. You can always learn something new and you can always get better and more efficient. 👍🏻
if you allow blade to come to stop before raising it will lessen change of backside tear out.
Ain’t nuthin easy about crown. Some days it fights ya like a crappy and some days it’s like hookin an alligator.
Stained crown. Don’t get me started. Dark stain is bad enough but blonde wood is the bane of my existence. But the end result is worth the fight. Really dresses up a room.
Your just at the mercy of the framing. If framing is bad you just gotta have a good eye and float the high and lows. If you try to run everything in and out and keep your spacing the same it will only magnify bad framin. Crown is super easy if you don't overthink it and keep it simple, and you can make a jacked up wall and ceiling look straight If you know what you are doing, same goes for base or chair rail. Sometimes you just gotta float lol 🤷♂️
CA glue: 1) Richard sells it on the RUclips channel “finish carpentry” 2) fast cap on line was one of the first with their 2-P10 system. I’ve been using that for years. You need that for any trim work. 3) Titebond “quick and thick” used to be known as trim glue. It’s not quite as good as the CA but I’ve used it in a pinch. Again nice work!!
Saved my life installing crown on top of kitchen cabinets that were too close to ceiling!
Yep👍🏻 use fast cap 2p10 gel w/ activator (a fav) along with Ca glue thick etc… and not only does Rich sell it, but can get from Amazon usually.
Ur a good man big Bob.
also to add with regards to angle grinder and coping you can also just use a dremel tool. I find it much easier to use as well to cope
Yep i actually found that out myself on accident.. i got the 2p10 activator aerosol spray to use for hydrodipping.. you lay the hydro dip sheet on the top of a bath of water then you spray the activator on tge film and dip the thing.. works great. But had a bunch left over and i just thought hey activator activates stuff, i wonder if itll speed up dry times on super glue and yep, instantly dries.. you just gotta watch what you spray the stuff on though.. it will instantly make a sheet of plexy glass go limp or craze the whole surface and that cant be sanded out…. Will melt certain plastics and instantly dissolve foams..
Yo, Jordan... Safety googles...
A super useful trick when hanging a wider crown like that is to cut triangle blocks out of 2x4 and nail them up. The crown will self-align, not have any wave in it, and if you place the block 6" or so from each corner your corners come together super easy. An old-timer I worked with for years taught me that method and I haven't hung crown on drywall without doing it sense, you always have a good nailer, you don't have to worry about cupped drywall and it just takes all the fussing and nonsense out of it.
Jordan wear your safety glasses or I'll tell on you to your father 😂😂😂 ... Great video 👍👍👍
Teacher, you might want to try using masking tape to help prevent tear out when using the coping saw.
Your 90° jig might be rocking on the ceiling/wall because of the drywall mud build up. Could be skewing your lines slightly forcing you to roll the crown to get the miters right. Maybe try to clip the long 32" inside corner so it fits a little tighter. Awesome job!
“Cut it off twice and it’s still too short” lol.
😆😅😆
Clipped baseboard drives me nuts. Put returns on the ends for a clean look
46 yrs contractor I agree, returns look professional
So neat how well you guys work together and have a good time doing it. My Dad was smart and did a great job but also very hard to work with. Such a blessing to watch you two
Thx 👊💪
Maybe you were the one who was hard to work with. 🤔
@@johnleach4703 Yes, maybe so
My FAV Home remodeling channel.. on RUclips or TV..... The amount of details and knowledge i have learned from watching is fantastic.
4-1/2 grinder with non-segmented diamond blade is the a dream for coping mdf.
Been watching you folks for a while now and when i started i knew nothing about remodeling (old Army medic here). I just finished my first bathroom project and it was big. Designed and did the work myself. Don't think i would have even tried it if I hadn't seen how you two tackle projects bite by bite until it's done. Thanks for the videos and the motivation!
We love to here that MSG! Congrats on the finished project and here’s to the next one! 🍻
Wish this video was around when I did my whole house! The one trick I used, was a whole set of templates made from scrap crown. I marked each one "outside left", outside right", "Inside right", etc...kept them under the saw for reference, and as one who has had too many close calls....EYE PROTECTION....always..... Thanks for your awesome video's!
I've been doing it for a few years and still have my cheater pieces to reference when I have a ton of stuff on my mind 😆
Next time 90° the long runs at each corner , then cope the next run to the 90°corner. That will take care of the gaps . No shims or caulking needed ! Once you go down that worm hole of shims your crow gets sloppy. Still giving you a thumbs up. Like the jig idea.
I install crown the same exact way. I do add some titebond in the miters though. Keeps them tight down the road as things expand and contract.
In almost 50 years as a building professional in Australia, I have never seen crown molding used. We use a plaster cornice - available in a countless number of profiles. The end result is identical in appearance. Plaster cornices are installed using cornice adhesive which is a very fast setting plaster.
Moulding is overpriced in the US.
Unfortunately they don't have the plaster moulding around me.
Polestyrene and MDF moulding is barely cheaper than pine.
CORNERS can be tricky, but here's the method I use that may help you.
The first thing I do is cut a short piece of plywood that is the correct dimension for the crown placement on the wall from the ceiling corner. I do similar to what you did in marking the wall using my cut piece of plywood, but I only put a small mark every couple of feet. For me, the marks are not absolute but more of a general goal of where to place the crown.
The true placement of the crown is derived from the corners of the room. If I'm installing crown in a left-to-right direction around the room, then I keep about a 3-foot piece of crown that is cut to mate with the piece being installed into the corner. I adjust both sides of the corner, making it higher or lower to achieve a tight fit of the miter. This is where I nail it. Sometimes it is dead-on the mark on the wall, or sometimes it's off by a 1/8th". Doesn't matter. Now I adjust and nail the crown along the wall using my marks as a guide, with the most important consideration being how well the crown mates up with the wall and ceiling.
I find this process allows me to do a first-rate crown install on subpar framing, drywall hanging, or drywall finishing.
Oh, and I generally install crown without a helper. I use a trim board cut just long enough to lean against the wall and support the other end of the crown at the approximate height. I've become very proficient with this method and can quickly install crown and be precise for a beautiful job.
My only negative comment- always wear glasses or safety glasses when operating any power equipment- especially saws- other than that , good video! Good info!
I got piece of knot into my eyes once when i was using table saw. Rest of day i saw everything double image with that eye luckily it went back to normal overnight. Since then i have never used table saw without safety glasses.
I do this day in day out, mostly restoration work on old English homes, but some residential work as well. A laser is far quicker and easier. Back in the day, before laser levels were affordable, our choice of method was the good old fashioned chalk line.
Personally I would advise again caulk, especially for gaps that large, filler has so many more advantages, you will get a perfect finish with little or no shrinkage and there are amazing fillers on the market that are flexible and very sandable within 24 hours. It takes a little more time, but well worth the effort.
I highly recommend using adhesive alongside nails. The nails will hold the moulding whilst the adhesive dries for a beautiful bond for decades to come and no worries about expansion and contraction weakening your mechanical fixings.
Another great video Paul and Jordan, we all know there is no perfection in anything or any person (only one), but you guys try to get it as close to perfect as possible. Great job the house is looking awesome, remain blessed and keep the video's coming!!!! :)
Thanks Javier! 💪🏼
I found CA glue on Amazon and tried it for the first time. It's incredible, strong and easy to use. Glues anything to anything. I use it on door and window case moldings. Make your cuts, glue everything together then install it.
Add tightbond 2 also then it will last forever
Just get some super glue(cyanoacrylate) and then dissolve Baking soda in water for you activation spray. Works like a charm. They upsell you on the activation spray, and it’s so much cheaper to make on your own.(1/2teaspoon of soda to 1/4cup of water)
The marking jig is simply brilliant! I'm stealing that idea 😎 but I'm gonna relieve that outside corner because ceiling joints aren't always perfect. Thanks for the tip!
Next time you do crown, or trim... pre-assemble as much as you can. It's the best way to get perfect joints, especially for outside corners and skirt joints. I take the time to assemble as much on the floor or workbench as I can, then nail it up and fill in the rest.
Jordan, tell our dad to get a bigger saw! 😁😆
Great video as always!
I was wondering about that, as any ceiling to wall joints less than perfect would obstruct placement of the jig unless the tip of the jig was rounded off to allow for it-
Hey studs, why does your plasterer bother taping and joining the internal joints where the walls meet the ceiling if your installing crown moulding? Seems like a huge waste of time and money
fantastic!! June 7, 2021. 574 thumbs up and 1 thumb down. 81.1K subscribers.
Put returns on that base at the jamb for pocket door!
No that leaves a little spot on the wall hard to get wall paint without getting it on base
There’s only a handful of real trade man who take their work to the next level you’re one of them 🙌🙌🙌
That jig outer corner would be better to plane little off because corner where wall meet ceiling usually isn't chisel sharp so jig doesn't necessarily go far enough into corner.
I stumbled on this channel looking for advice for my bathroom remodel and found it. Obviously Great work, but what impresses me even more is How Paul explains in EXTREME detail how he does a procedure and why...and the very small nuances of how to account for issues like crooked walls , figuring out old work that was hacked up, using make-shift tools when better ones aren't available and general problem solving all day every day. Paul is very thorough. Nothing is easy, (I was a mechanic, body man and painter for 40 years.) There's a ton of videos with very skilled contractors out there of explaining how to...,but Paul's teaching skills are by far the best (that I have come across). Just because a person is very skilled at what they do doesn't necessarily mean they can teach it very well. I like it when Jordan chimes in, he always has a good point to get across. I love watching your videos and coming away learning something. Also the editing, audio and camera work is up close, clear and dead on. That really matters. I don't know how you guys get anything done with all the precise filming. Lol. Stellar job Jordan and Paul !! Saints suck, go Ravens! Lol
I snap lines instead of marking the wall and ceiling with a jig. That way the crown won’t follow a slightly wavy ceiling. I’ve seen crown that isn’t straight. It can be really obvious around casings below it.
I sure do love my compound miter saw for cutting crown. Makes jigs obsolete for me.
If the wall and or ceiling is wavy those lines don’t work
For the air hose. Cut about an inch of hose off, slide it back in and zip tie it.
Exactly what we did 👍
Next time lay it flat and cut it if it’s too big. You just need to figure out the appropriate bevel and angle for whatever the spring angle is
I like it when you show how to solve the problems you run into like shimming to align the trim when ceilings are uneven. Also your fixturing techniques and how to locate and mark your studs for nailing. Do you ever glue your joints?
Sometimes I would cut a piece of crown that was a true angle and use that as a test please see what it looks like at the koppen in the corner and then it's just from there like 2 or 3 ft long piece of scrap rather than shim down with shims some Builders don't like that the new construction is good about a good trip tricks man thank you
Excellent video. I love hearing your narration; using the correct technical terms for everything really is helpful for someone like me who only knows a fraction of them. It helps me learn, in context! My only criticism is the fact that you didn't publish this video one month earlier, when I was doing my kitchen's crown molding. :-P
Thx 👍👍
8:13 the other thing about making your own crown jig; don’t have to deal/mess with the ones that come with miter saw…..which can be bad, really bad, usable, and ok😉. IMO, and think for most ppl who do crown often; they have their own jig and method “to the madness”😁
This entire job has turned out great, did awesome job on the beam, transitions, and the countertops 👍🏻👍🏻.
Very nice✌🏻
Since your mitering your insides you could lay that crown doen flat and comoound cut and the washer wouldnt hit
If the Lord had expected us to be perfect he wouldn't have given us DAP.
"Caulk and paint make it what it aint" is something I was told a long time ago.
@@dmacarthur5356 My personal favorite is "Do your best and caulk the rest".
"Clamp" is one of my professional nicknames. "Roach Clamp" was an early version, 'cause I said it before. Kept a roach clamp in my front right pouch.
Have you ever done floating crown with LED lights behind it? I did this in our master bedroom and it turned out awesome. Plan on doing it in our basement build, and was looking for a good tips and tricks video..
No we haven’t but I’m DYING to try that. 🙏🏼
I’m a 56 yo man who lost his dad at the age of 2.What I wouldn’t give to have had him around to do projects like this.I love the bond you two have with each other.And it just so happens you guys know what you are doing! I get to live vicariously through Stud Pack….and that’s okay with me.thanks guys.
Baseboard installed before the flooring install. Interesting choice. What is the flooring material
In the last video it was stated that they were using "spacer blocks" when installing the baseboard and that they would explain how they used them. But I don't recall seeing that being covered.
@@mjdamato Still curious how one will tuck the flooring under the base. I will wait to see.
I’d rather make 3 trips to the saw than 2 trips to the store.
Have you guys tried the battery pin and brad nailers? So convenient for moulding. I love mine. Lugging around hose and compressors suck! A 2AH battery gets me a full day of nailing.
Also, Ace and similar stores like that should sell super glue activator. Should work with pretty much any cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue), which I am pretty sure accounts for most "instant bond super glues". The california prop 65 warning on the back probably will say "contains cyanoacrylates which are known in the state of CA to cause cancer" or something like that.
Nice work guys.... I cut my crown flat... miter or cope my crown with a coping saw.... and I hang my crown by myself with the two by four propping up the tail end........ I can crown four room to your one you guys are slow..... good work though....
You must do commercial work vs residential with that speed.
I’ve been a carpenter for 20 years and I still learn something new from your videos. Some very helpful tricks that could’ve saved me lots of time and frustration. Awesome work. Keep it up!
Awesome thx Bill 👊
Fantastic instructions for creating a crown jig and also for how to create a crown stop for the miter saw! Really great video. Haven't seen a better video on how to do this!
Nice work guys. One thing I do is use a coping saw for most of the cut and finish off with a dremel and sanding drum on low speed to get perfect coped joints.
I've been running Crown moulding for 40 years I have one question if your Crown is the same both ways how do you know when you have it upside down lol
You have to use a mirror 🤣🤣👍👊
Great job as per your usual efforts. Crown is never easy especially if you’ve never done it before. Some great tips in this one too.
You guys do great work. Not sure if you know this but you can cut crown flat if you set your bevel to 33.9 and your swing to 31.6. That's how I do it now and it's so much faster and easier. Just a tip awesome work either way.
Finally someone who does it the right way
Subbed to channel today! Nice work
The reason for coping inside miters is to stop joints from opening when nailed to wall and ceiling. Outside miters naturally tighten when nailed. However, this was a bigger problem when crown was hand nailed. I had a old school amazing craftsman as a teacher He would whack me upside the head if I used caulk to hide sins in joinery. I still believe the best tools for this is a high end hand powered miter box, sharp block plane, Coping saw, a rasp/file. Air nailer and a power miter box is a new school advantage though.
Thx Mark 👍
Mark WALLburg
NICE play.
Good jobs love the way father and son. Work together. Eric from Canada montreal
Learned slot. Anything coped => Dremel is your best friend. I usually write on either side of the blade “left inside/right outside” & “left outside/right inside” to help me remember which end I am cutting off. Because as Jordan said “it tough to think upside down.
ok i have a question when you have a 44 degree angle using the protractor do you go to 44 degrees on the miter saw or do you set it to 22 degrees on the miter saw?
i am confused about this question help me with this Stud Pack thanks
Check out next level carpentry for the ca glue
Just a little tip for baseboards... I have installed a TON of baseboards and I VERY rarely have to cope a corner. Get yourself a Miter Saw Protractor. I have an aluminum one made by Saker...it was like $20. Gives you perfect angles with no gaps, everytime!!
Love the painting refference at 16:24 !! Great job as always guys!
I had to scroll waaay to far to find someone else that noticed this :-)
"Mark Walberg" is one of the greatest puns of all time. Good Job.
You are very easily amused.
That might have been one of the lamest puns I've ever heard.
May i humbly make a suggestion?
I'm 72 yr old and am a crown master. I measure, cut, cope and install by myself ... that's another story.
I have come to discover that if i use a Japanese chalk line (very thin, with pin) and
connect all the bottom references and install on said line, it becomes the line you
see when you walk into a room and all potential waves disappear. After my corners
are set and secure, i then push and fasten the top of the crown.
I think you guys are "This Old House" on steroids!
This old Dog has learned new tricks from Stud Pack, be safe and keep going!
For traditional crowns, most compound miter saws have the settings for both angles so you can lay the material flat. Unless you have done the framing, you can only template like that at each corner then snap a line and roll with the ceiling. I always cope, it's more forgiving.
Want something simpler and easier to install? We offer an alternative crown molding and eliminates much of your time, tools, and headaches to install traditional crown molding. We love the opportunity to speak to anyone and explain the benefits of our crown molding vs traditional wood. Even to the Stud Pack guys, we'd love the opportunity to work with you on your next project!
Where are you guys located? How long have you been doing this? Also what's your favorite thing to renovate or fix?
Ditch the compressor, battery powered nailers are the bees knees
Attention to detail! I love it - from a fellow craftsman. If at all possible, I like to fill in the deepest low spots in the drywall prior to crown install. It minimizes the thickness of the caulking bead. Sometimes the joint is so big that it draws the eye. Not except-able to me. I've seen as much as 1/2" over only 3 studs. Unfortunately, this means refinishing to blend in the various areas that were filled in. Thus, the biggest down side is an added expense to the homeowner. It's all about communication and managing expectations.
what i learned here is, use symmetrical crown.
Can I work with you to learn.
I was thinking you guys were having a joke about your hose fitting to the air nailer. use a Nitto fitting. I have them on all my tools and you can swap your hoses and tools as required.
Great work guys. I just trimmed out my house. Not a Proffesional, but let me tell you, a lot of back-n- forth to the saw. 😂 Wife finally got to see what all is involved. Turned out not too bad for a weekend warrior. She’s happy and that’s what counts. Keep it up guys, love your videos. 👍🏼
Some people do test cuts for mitering such as 44° of 46° other tricks are to move the corners up and down to fit. Instant thin CA glue will seep in to joint and dry in 5 seconds.
I used the two part CA on all of my kitchen base board trim and it turned out perfect. Good stuff.
Maybe consider making the bumper jamb thicker, so base can terminate into it cleanly, rather than nipping off the end cuts. Little F.O. lost by allowing the jamb to emulate the function of a traditional plinth. Just a thought.
my only complaint is you guys not wearing ear protection with loud equipment.
as one who suffers tinnitus from the same, it's not a pleasant injury to live the rest of your life with.
please use earplugs.
11:41 AND SAFETY GLASSES for the love of life! PLEASE! ~face palm~ having had to have a steel splinter taken out of my eye ball, IT'S NOT WORTH IT! WEAR SAFETY GEAR PLEASE.
Amazon has Starbond and accelerator..
It won't let me post a link so search for this
Starbond 2 oz. Thin CA Glue, 2 oz. Medium CA Glue, 2 oz. Thick CA Glue, 6 oz. Aerosol Accelerator Bundle, Cyanoacrylate Adhesive Super Glues for Woodworking, Woodturning, Guitar, Hobby
Use the grinder, you'll NEVER go back. With a 12" sliding compound miter, you'll slay it every time
You guys make a great team! So positive. I’ve bee a general contractor for 40 1/2 years and great help is hard to find.
I have 4 sons, all in their 20s and early thirties. Unfortunately, 😂they all (and 2 daughters) , are college grads and none to take over the corporation 😢.
I’m a college grad too but I guess they’re smarter than dad.😅
Anyway, I suspect that your miter saw needs a tiny bit of adjustment because your crown was consistently open at the top.
But great job and keep trucking guys!
I like all your tutorials!
The only time I use MDF mouldings is when I install larger crowns that don't come in solid wood such as poplar. They are too sensitive in every way. You should look into getting a quality blade for your saw to much flex with those thin curf diablos. Forrest is one.
Hi, Good Video and Beautiful Crown Molding
Where You Got This Crown Molding Sorry And Measures ?
Do You Have The Link Or Model ?
Thank You.
Battery powered guns....
Great job Gang. FYI I buy my CA glue and activator from Amazon.