Been doing similar for years; I usually make the return longer, glue in place using tape to fold into place, then trim and finish the stub to be flush with the back of the moulding. Easier than fiddling around with tiny (and fragile) pieces.
Recently bought a new house and have been doing some remodeling. I am an amateur but about 20 years ago some of my early jobs were construction so I have some skill. Anyway just wanted to say that I have found your videos very helpful for tips and bringing back some of that forgotten knowledge. Thanks.
Tip for using the super glue. You can use it without the activator initially for more working time. I oftentimes will put glue on, put the pieces together and hold for about 10 seconds, then spray the back side with the activator. With MDF especially, the activator will soak the material and activate the glue. Even without the activator, the cyanoacrylate glue will bond with a bit more time and be just as strong.
One tip I would add to this is putting a wood backer on your miter fence that will keep the piece from being kicked by the blade. This also has the added benefit of stopping tear out on the cut exit. I use two pieces of .25in x 1.5in x 12in on each side of my fence with a little double sided tape to hold it on. This makes those small cuts so much easier to do with far fewer messed up pieces. So many times I've had tiny pieces get grabbed by the miter saw blade and thrown at 100mph, but having that gap closed with the temporary wooden fence that closes the large gap of the permanent fence solves that issue.
There is actually another option thats a variant of your preferred self return. Instead of a 90 deg/square return, you can do a 45 degree version where the baseboard appears flows into the wall. It is particularly useful when you want to terminate at a thinner material such as tile. I can't take credit for this one - learned it from the legend Gary Katz
@@PhongNguyen-df9bt it's easy you just use 22.5 degrees for your miter and start with a 45 instead of a 90. This is the way I do it for every piece of shoe i have to end. Also crown that has to end, I don't do like in this video with a 90 degree return. I think you see the profile better when it's angled and that detail is very appealing to me
Used CA doing my baseboards and other trim. Works like a champ! Used it to apply the skins to my new kitchen cabinets as well. Thanks for reminding me to buy a new blade for the miter saw. 👍🏼
I would note, that I find it vastly easier not to cut all the way through on my return blocks. Those tiny little 45 degree triangles tend to get thrown all over when you cut them completely through, particularly if you are cutting them on the miter and not the bevel, as shown here, and often ruined when the blade catches them. I find it much easier just to leave the back bottom corner in place when cutting, and then you can break them off easily, and trim off anything you may need to with your utility knife. Also, when doing this at scale, I recommend building your returns and joins on the backside of another piece of baseboard from somewhere else in the install. This way, the extra glue doesn't get anywhere you care about, and you can use activator to neutralize any drip through, and not worry about messing up any part of the house you are working in. It's also flat, and long enough that you can force the baseboard flat when doing long joints to make sure the joint closes properly.
Excellent video. Few things that help me. Always keep a small cup of warm water and keep dipping your finger in the water. Also when you have caulk in your finger, just wipe it on the back of your opposite hand. It's my painter's pallette. I reuse in spots needed. Less waste also. Keep up the good work
To line them up for glueing, use a straight edge and butt the workpiece against it so when you add the other one just slide it down the straight edge then push into place. Perfect fit!
Great tip. But "no fancy tools required" . I'd say a sliding compound miter saw is a fairly fancy bit of kit. Best purchase I've made in awhile and it's paid for it'self many times over.
You can improvise an accurate miter box from scrap, a couple screws, and a combo square. That plus a hand saw, especially a tenon / back saw, will get equally good results, especially if you know how to sharpen and set a saw for fine work.
I built staircases, and usually got the millwork installation too. Before that, like most, I packed lumber and framed. Framers want to kill you in the winter, when they see through the windows in your stocking feet, ticky tackin up all of that beautiful light wood/mdf. I would tell them that “the instructions are in boxes that my parts are shipped to me in”. That’s how I learned, I taught several, friends for life. “Thank for teaching”. (The old ones, taught me the most.)
I really enjoy your videos and learn some great tips from them and reading the comments. Love your simple no hype style . Well done from an Australian 😊
Great video.. It took me a while to learn this technique; as DIY we don’t do it on the daily. However, if you do end up with a bit of a gap, I use DAP spackle and clean it up with a damp sponge.. It works well..
Excellent video! Except I have to respectfully disagree with the turn down return looking good at all. Never got that at all. Love your approach to safety for cutting the turn in return without over doing it. There are new folks watching and it’s important to help them keep their fingers intact. The gluing techniques are spot on! Your out takes at the end are MONEY! Especially the Minn-esotan one! 🤣🤣🤣Thanks for the info and the chuckle!
Tip: Don't worry about cutting the return piece to perfect length! Let it be a little bit long. Glue it to the main piece, trim to fit, possibly with a sander, then attach it to the wall.
Unfortunately I only have an old Craftsman chop saw, but I got it for free from family, so can't complain. But I did get a diablo finish blade, 80 teeth I think, which does super clean cuts. Using painters tape over a cut can help prevent tear-out as well I think. I also had to try to calibrate my saw so it was square at to 0° mark. If either cut is off by the smallest amount the return will look like crap. I cut a ton of returns for door casing headers. CA glue + activator worked great, and any minor seams I filled with white wood filler, sanded, primed, painted. A lot of work for something no one will notice haha, but looks perfect to me! Baseboards next!
Great vid, would add that you can set your saw on a slight bevel to ensure that return piece sits nice and tight to the wall. Learned to use glue/activator from your for miter vid and haven't gone back!
So amazingly helpful! thank you. I am planning to make a semi complicated box to make our plant drape in a really pretty way and this will make it look beautiful!
I prefer a 45 degree angle finished end where the little piece is cut at an angle on both ends (22 1/2 and 45 degrees) and the main piece is backcut ( 22 1/2 degrees). Takes more attempts to get perfect but lots high end and works great for thicker baseboard terminating at thinner door trim. I do it a lot with the shoe molding since it often extends out more than the door trim.
I love watching your videos and the way you explain things! Have a home remodel project and I’ll be be referring back to quite a few of them as I go. Thank you so much for them! 😊❤️
As a contractor myself, I don’t know what cheap customer is going to pay for the time and money it takes to do a return like this. The easiest way I do returns is just using a palm sander to round the edge. I do have to repaint it but it’s just more cost effective. Sadly most customers don’t appreciate or want to pay for a nice return method like this in the video.
The video was 8 minutes long and obviously padded out because it is instructional. Let's guess at 5 minutes each. If you premake all your ends maybe less. If you've 20 to do in a house that less than 2 hours. If your customers can't stand an hour or two to make 20 skirting ends look classy instead of shit then you need new customers.
I love these returns, and use them as often as I can! For some reason I call / think of them as ‘blind returns’, don’t ask me why. I opt for the masking tape and wood glue method, works well usually, but nothing like as quick as CA granted
On site we cut the return 45 into the wall an inch or two bigger than it needs to be which makes it easier to hold and place whilst gluing it up. Once set just use a handsaw and run it flush down back of the skirting and cut the excess off. There is also a 4th option which is to return the mitre into the wall using 22.5 which gives a 3 piece return into the wall,it is more work and more fiddly but it does look the best .
When I cut the returns, I like to try to time shutting off the saw so that the blade is almost stopped as it finishes the cut and keep the blade below the surface of the cutting surface. That way the piece doesn't vibrate or slip into the blade and launch out. Then you're cutting a new piece and not having it possibly thrown back at you
Nice job. Two off and I go into a house and see somebody did it just a square cut absolutely unacceptable unless the homeowner Did it himself I myself don’t have the luxury of that nice slide saw but I manage I have been using wood glue and tape but the glue you’re using looks pretty slick thanks for posting
My #1 tip... don't do glue-ups on your router or table saw table tops. 😄 Yes it is tempting, but you get glue all over them you have to scrape off. Use a flat scrap piece of plywood or MDF (or a silicone mat is best with non-CA glues).
I use regular wood glue. The trick for a tight joint is using a quality masking tape. Not any of the kind available at Home Depot. Most paint supply stores carry it. It's thicker and has more stretchability before tearing. Line the pieces up flat and apply the masking tape. (Rub the tape to ensure a good surface bond) You can test close the joint before applying the glue. You will feel the tape pull and stretch as you close it (That's why you can't use cheap masking tape) If you're happy with the joint, apply a little wood glue and hold it closed with a little more tape. If you have slight gap or imperfections fix it with wood filler and not dap. Wood filler dries rock hard, so you can sand and shape it.
I like to use a piece of tape to hold the return to the saw surface so it doesn't fly away after cutting. And if your return is a little heavy, you can stand the piece up and run it through a table saw set to the thickness of the trim to cut the back edge of the return to proper thickness
On MDF I wet the joints with a damp sponge. This stops the glue and activator from soaking in. Always works, never had a problem and the joint is strong. You use less glue and activator. Its cleaner as well. Try it out on a scrap piece you will always use it.
“No fancy tools required” …uses a Festool chop saw. If your saw allows for the space I like to use a make to prevent the little piece getting flung across the room.
In situations where I need to be certain about placement of glued pieces I forgo using the accelerator. I do a test with the brand I have on hand to be sure it eventually hardens.
You could just plunge cut if you don’t have a slide. Don’t even need a fancy blade. Just a slow cut and some painters tape. But either way the technique is in the joining and sanding that makes it perfect
A headless pin nailer and standard wood glue work great as well. Make good cuts with a good blade and it won't look like an info-mercial. This seems a little overkill.
Nice vid. Same way I do it. Although, I did not laugh 1 time watching. One thing…. Home Depot does not sell the activator. I think it may make some people grow tails.
I would recommend watching the other 150 vids I’ve made. I’m sure somewhere along the line you will laugh… even if it’s just a slight smirk that still counts!
A lot easier in a workshop. Where as on price work with a pencil sqr a ruler and handsaw. Then either no nails, hitting nails or a drill plugs and screws to fit it to the wall. Plus a saw bench. Or lugging a cross cut saw around the site. It's a good idea to carry a tub of putty to fill gaps in the joint. Otherwise the painter will just use caulk.
This works on decent size mouldings and on MDF. We use 11mm thick skirt and arch. It would still be possible but return is tiny. Plus CA glue not so good on pine. Which is our most common material. It is neat on what you use though.
Such a great video bud! Here in the Netherlands its not usual to use moulding because the walls are made of brick or gyporock but i always love the look of moulding and i really wanna start using it in projects, some great tips as always bud! Expecially the CA glue i really need that. Have a great weekend bud🍻🍻
I just stand the base up and make the cut. To keep it from flying away you have to let off the trigger early. I always glue them on with wood glue. If it doesn't stay in tight enough you can use blue masking tape to hold it long enough for the glue to dry. If you cut it too long, just toss it and cut another piece, don't even think about trying to cut that piece again. Also don't nail the end of the board to the wall until you put the piece in place. Sometimes the baseboard can be sucked in so tight that the little piece doesn't want to fit in there right. If that happens you can pry it out but still.
Jeez. The contractors that did the trim on my house didn't even do a 90 degree cut. All of them are cut at the same 45 as the ones in the corner like they were too lazy to even change the angle on their saw. I knew it didn't look right but I never knew how to fix it until now.
Man, I love this channel. It always reminds me of my 20-yo self. So many cringe moments! But, hey when there's no one to show you the right way, you must learn the hard way.
Make your return piece long by an inch or two, it really doesn’t matter. Next put tape sticky side up on a good flat surface and your work piece on top so the tape sticks to its face. Now put your return piece so that butts up right next to your trim piece. You’ve probably seen this done with other 45° cuts to make boxes. Brush and a light coating of wood glue and fold the two pieces together so they make a perfect fit. Use a little extra tape to help make sure the whole length stays clamped together and set it aside. After the glue has dried, remove your tape, set your trim piece face side down and take a trim saw designed to cut flat against the surface and cut off the excess on the return, similar to trimming dowels with a little saw. Sand as needed then paint it and easy Peezy perfect return. Just saying there’s more than one way to accomplish the same thing.
I've always used this method for returns in conspicuous places; a poor-man's alternative to the 2 part glue is to simply use Elmer's or some other PVA glue, hold it until it's just tacky enough to not fall off, then put a drop of super glue into each end of the seam to hold it until the PVA dries. Also, in inconspicuous places, particularly aprons under window sills, you can often get way with using a straight cut for the flat portion, an angled cut to get as close as possible to the shape of the routered edge, then use a file to perfect the routered part.
I don’t miter the ends and glue a little piece on. If it’s being painted, I do an inside corner cope at both ends of about a 10” piece of the molding then use that to trace the profile onto the face of the molding where it’s to be returned. I then cope the end of the molding holding my coping saw 90° to the face of the molding creating the return with no small piece to cut or glue on. This only works however if the molding is painted because if not you would see the end grain of the wood.
Hi, I love your videos. You are incredibly informative and you make it entertaining. I had a quick question. I have a bunch of french doors with very short runs of baseboard in between. I was wondering if it would be lame to just use the router to 1/4 round off the edge of the baseboard as a return instead of cutting 1000 little pieces for returns. Thanks
Would you ever cut a return on a flat glossy panel. I have some ikea gable stock that needs to be cut but since it is glossy I won't be able to just paint the end. My trim carpenter did a mitre on two panels and was able to join them to a not horrible result but certainly far from perfect. I've tried the return cut but man handling the panel through my 8.25" dewalt table saw using blue tape still resulted in some chip out and while I'll be able to line up and probably glue the return I am not sure how to fix the chip out look on a glossy white panel. The pro answer is likely just order a panel to size and pay for the full paint up and not muck around with the return. In this case the return is the end of panel that butts up to the side of the drawer faces on an island so probably the only one who notices will be me. Thanks for reading! Your finish videos are always excellent, I frequently watch and re-watch each time I am doing a similar task and I love seeing how to achieve the perfect look even if my execution is rarely up to your skill level !
Yep like the guy was saying below there's another self return that you can do I don't have my saw on me or know the exact angles but it's 2:22 and 1/2 cuts inside cuts of course and then a 45 and you return it into the wall instead of the capped end look. It looks good in some situations when you cuz it lets you display the profile of the base instead of terminating it square cut more.
Why does anybody use MDF for baseboard or door casing???? ANY bit of moisture wicking up from the unfinished bottom and that crap swells up and starts looking NASTY. I look forward to hearing opinions on that. Haven't seen the turning down 90 deg to the floor option before, I'll have to try that. Something I like is a 45 deg return on base, chair rail and crown, cutting both pieces on a 22 1/2 deg instead of a 45 deg. Thanks. Everybody take care. I did enjoy the video.
Same blade 10 years,cutting roofing shingles . Lol I wish, I cut aluminum porch posts and exhaust pipes. Then I make really ugly baseboard cuts. And sometimes the stuff shatters if it's too small of a piece. Never did find those missing carbide tooth tips! On to my random orbital sander. Never realized you could actually change the blade.
Question for the master of this channel. When you have to splice a piece in because it's longer than the length of material when you're doing a long run I always 22 and a half. And I've come out with splices that pretty much look you can't even see them but of course you got to burn your inch or whatever material length to burn when you make those cuts. I was just working on a job recently and I quit on these guys it sucked I was just lame but anyways I shouldn't quit but they were trying to put me on the siding and believe me to fix all their jacked up miters. No worries but it's my first day with the company so anyways I left them but they were doing a 33.6 or 33.8 or whatever that other miter that's already on the saw and using that splice method and their slices look like crap so would 22 1/2 always work for you too? Thanks for all these videos that really help perfecting carpentry there's always more to learn as my attitude.
Been doing similar for years; I usually make the return longer, glue in place using tape to fold into place, then trim and finish the stub to be flush with the back of the moulding. Easier than fiddling around with tiny (and fragile) pieces.
Recently bought a new house and have been doing some remodeling. I am an amateur but about 20 years ago some of my early jobs were construction so I have some skill. Anyway just wanted to say that I have found your videos very helpful for tips and bringing back some of that forgotten knowledge. Thanks.
Tip for using the super glue. You can use it without the activator initially for more working time. I oftentimes will put glue on, put the pieces together and hold for about 10 seconds, then spray the back side with the activator. With MDF especially, the activator will soak the material and activate the glue. Even without the activator, the cyanoacrylate glue will bond with a bit more time and be just as strong.
I find that CA glue is great at transferring my finger prints to my work piece...:)
😂 Me too!
I always manage to forget not to scratch wherever I itch when I get CA glue on my fingers. It can get pretty embarrassing.
😂💯
Most times I forget and pick my nose. Hate it when THAT happens . Butt this one time....
After a couple screw-ups I won't open a bottle of CA without gloves on.
One tip I would add to this is putting a wood backer on your miter fence that will keep the piece from being kicked by the blade. This also has the added benefit of stopping tear out on the cut exit.
I use two pieces of .25in x 1.5in x 12in on each side of my fence with a little double sided tape to hold it on. This makes those small cuts so much easier to do with far fewer messed up pieces. So many times I've had tiny pieces get grabbed by the miter saw blade and thrown at 100mph, but having that gap closed with the temporary wooden fence that closes the large gap of the permanent fence solves that issue.
Excellent point on the sacrificial fence
That is what I always do. Especially useful when cutting small pieces of oak trim, as the blade kick them out much more often than softer materials.
There is actually another option thats a variant of your preferred self return. Instead of a 90 deg/square return, you can do a 45 degree version where the baseboard appears flows into the wall. It is particularly useful when you want to terminate at a thinner material such as tile. I can't take credit for this one - learned it from the legend Gary Katz
Is there a video on how to do it that way?
@@PhongNguyen-df9bt "Installing Baseboard: Program 4, with Gary Katz" on RUclips. 49 minute mark.
@@Reflekt3D Thanks a lot, I now have a new series of carpentry videos to watch
@@PhongNguyen-df9bt it's easy you just use 22.5 degrees for your miter and start with a 45 instead of a 90. This is the way I do it for every piece of shoe i have to end. Also crown that has to end, I don't do like in this video with a 90 degree return. I think you see the profile better when it's angled and that detail is very appealing to me
ruclips.net/video/R6FDzusxkx8/видео.html
You've got great content, and a great on-camera demeanor. Thanks for your contribution to the repair/remodel youtube realm.
Thanks Stephen, that’s great if you to say🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter ❤
Used CA doing my baseboards and other trim. Works like a champ! Used it to apply the skins to my new kitchen cabinets as well. Thanks for reminding me to buy a new blade for the miter saw. 👍🏼
Cheers Harry. It’s always nice to have a couple blades and then when you’re cutting roof shingles you can put the old one back on😂
I would note, that I find it vastly easier not to cut all the way through on my return blocks. Those tiny little 45 degree triangles tend to get thrown all over when you cut them completely through, particularly if you are cutting them on the miter and not the bevel, as shown here, and often ruined when the blade catches them. I find it much easier just to leave the back bottom corner in place when cutting, and then you can break them off easily, and trim off anything you may need to with your utility knife.
Also, when doing this at scale, I recommend building your returns and joins on the backside of another piece of baseboard from somewhere else in the install. This way, the extra glue doesn't get anywhere you care about, and you can use activator to neutralize any drip through, and not worry about messing up any part of the house you are working in. It's also flat, and long enough that you can force the baseboard flat when doing long joints to make sure the joint closes properly.
Nice tips, thanks
Good tips
An extra piece of wood behind the base will stop the small return from slingshotting into the atmosphere.
This man is the woodworking version of Bob Ross his voice is both educational and soothing
This guy is absolutely on of the best in his craft. Explained perfectly well. I am confident I can try and attempt this at home now.
Thanks Glenn, I appreciate the praise.
Excellent video. Few things that help me. Always keep a small cup of warm water and keep dipping your finger in the water. Also when you have caulk in your finger, just wipe it on the back of your opposite hand. It's my painter's pallette. I reuse in spots needed. Less waste also. Keep up the good work
I've used a hot glue gun since the 1970s for all trim returns . Thanks for Your insights . Good info for Us all .
To line them up for glueing, use a straight edge and butt the workpiece against it so when you add the other one just slide it down the straight edge then push into place. Perfect fit!
Nice tip!
Great tip. But "no fancy tools required" . I'd say a sliding compound miter saw is a fairly fancy bit of kit. Best purchase I've made in awhile and it's paid for it'self many times over.
You can improvise an accurate miter box from scrap, a couple screws, and a combo square. That plus a hand saw, especially a tenon / back saw, will get equally good results, especially if you know how to sharpen and set a saw for fine work.
I built staircases, and usually got the millwork installation too. Before that, like most, I packed lumber and framed.
Framers want to kill you in the winter, when they see through the windows in your stocking feet, ticky tackin up all of that beautiful light wood/mdf. I would tell them that “the instructions are in boxes that my parts are shipped to me in”. That’s how I learned, I taught several, friends for life.
“Thank for teaching”. (The old ones, taught me the most.)
I really enjoy your videos and learn some great tips from them and reading the comments. Love your simple no hype style . Well done from an Australian 😊
Great video.. It took me a while to learn this technique; as DIY we don’t do it on the daily. However, if you do end up with a bit of a gap, I use DAP spackle and clean it up with a damp sponge.. It works well..
Great tip!
Excellent video! Except I have to respectfully disagree with the turn down return looking good at all. Never got that at all. Love your approach to safety for cutting the turn in return without over doing it. There are new folks watching and it’s important to help them keep their fingers intact. The gluing techniques are spot on! Your out takes at the end are MONEY! Especially the Minn-esotan one! 🤣🤣🤣Thanks for the info and the chuckle!
You're a highly skilled man, both in terms of doing the work, but also explaining it. THANK YOU!!!
Tip: Don't worry about cutting the return piece to perfect length! Let it be a little bit long. Glue it to the main piece, trim to fit, possibly with a sander, then attach it to the wall.
Unfortunately I only have an old Craftsman chop saw, but I got it for free from family, so can't complain. But I did get a diablo finish blade, 80 teeth I think, which does super clean cuts. Using painters tape over a cut can help prevent tear-out as well I think. I also had to try to calibrate my saw so it was square at to 0° mark. If either cut is off by the smallest amount the return will look like crap. I cut a ton of returns for door casing headers. CA glue + activator worked great, and any minor seams I filled with white wood filler, sanded, primed, painted. A lot of work for something no one will notice haha, but looks perfect to me! Baseboards next!
Best wishes on the baseboards🍻
Great vid, would add that you can set your saw on a slight bevel to ensure that return piece sits nice and tight to the wall. Learned to use glue/activator from your for miter vid and haven't gone back!
good tip
We carpenters call that a "relief" cut.
So amazingly helpful! thank you. I am planning to make a semi complicated box to make our plant drape in a really pretty way and this will make it look beautiful!
I prefer a 45 degree angle finished end where the little piece is cut at an angle on both ends (22 1/2 and 45 degrees) and the main piece is backcut ( 22 1/2 degrees). Takes more attempts to get perfect but lots high end and works great for thicker baseboard terminating at thinner door trim. I do it a lot with the shoe molding since it often extends out more than the door trim.
I love watching your videos and the way you explain things! Have a home remodel project and I’ll be be referring back to quite a few of them as I go. Thank you so much for them! 😊❤️
Thanks for watching!
God dammit! All these years running trim and I didn’t think of this cut! Thanks dude
Brand new subscriber here from Fall River, Massachusetts! I often wondered how to do those returns! Thanks a lot for your video! 🇺🇦🇺🇸🤜
Great tip. I have so many really bad moulding returns in our home. Sometimes I just wonder what they were thinking.
This was so helpful. I wish I could havre irked with someone like you years ago. You are an excellent instructor.
I made good experience with acrylic caulking for glue. It takes a day to cure, but it looks nice and doesn't stick my finger to the wall.
Great teacher, the way you describes the working process is really relaxing and crystal clear good stuff，，👍👍👍
As a contractor myself, I don’t know what cheap customer is going to pay for the time and money it takes to do a return like this. The easiest way I do returns is just using a palm sander to round the edge. I do have to repaint it but it’s just more cost effective. Sadly most customers don’t appreciate or want to pay for a nice return method like this in the video.
The video was 8 minutes long and obviously padded out because it is instructional. Let's guess at 5 minutes each. If you premake all your ends maybe less. If you've 20 to do in a house that less than 2 hours.
If your customers can't stand an hour or two to make 20 skirting ends look classy instead of shit then you need new customers.
I’ve always just coped mine. Draw a line, cope it as close as you can, then finish it up with find rasps, or files.
If your a carpenter doing finish trim invest in a "Hot Glue" gun,,that works great and no need for nails,,perfect joint every time
I love these returns, and use them as often as I can! For some reason I call / think of them as ‘blind returns’, don’t ask me why.
I opt for the masking tape and wood glue method, works well usually, but nothing like as quick as CA granted
I think they are also called blind returns.
On site we cut the return 45 into the wall an inch or two bigger than it needs to be which makes it easier to hold and place whilst gluing it up. Once set just use a handsaw and run it flush down back of the skirting and cut the excess off. There is also a 4th option which is to return the mitre into the wall using 22.5 which gives a 3 piece return into the wall,it is more work and more fiddly but it does look the best .
When I cut the returns, I like to try to time shutting off the saw so that the blade is almost stopped as it finishes the cut and keep the blade below the surface of the cutting surface. That way the piece doesn't vibrate or slip into the blade and launch out. Then you're cutting a new piece and not having it possibly thrown back at you
Nice job. Two off and I go into a house and see somebody did it just a square cut absolutely unacceptable unless the homeowner Did it himself I myself don’t have the luxury of that nice slide saw but I manage I have been using wood glue and tape but the glue you’re using looks pretty slick thanks for posting
My #1 tip... don't do glue-ups on your router or table saw table tops. 😄
Yes it is tempting, but you get glue all over them you have to scrape off. Use a flat scrap piece of plywood or MDF (or a silicone mat is best with non-CA glues).
I like to place grease proof paper under my glue joints. It won't stick and make a mess.
I use wax paper
Nicely, clearly explained. No nonsense, nicely videos. Thank you
I use regular wood glue. The trick for a tight joint is using a quality masking tape. Not any of the kind available at Home Depot. Most paint supply stores carry it. It's thicker and has more stretchability before tearing. Line the pieces up flat and apply the masking tape. (Rub the tape to ensure a good surface bond) You can test close the joint before applying the glue. You will feel the tape pull and stretch as you close it (That's why you can't use cheap masking tape) If you're happy with the joint, apply a little wood glue and hold it closed with a little more tape. If you have slight gap or imperfections fix it with wood filler and not dap. Wood filler dries rock hard, so you can sand and shape it.
I like to use a piece of tape to hold the return to the saw surface so it doesn't fly away after cutting. And if your return is a little heavy, you can stand the piece up and run it through a table saw set to the thickness of the trim to cut the back edge of the return to proper thickness
On MDF I wet the joints with a damp sponge. This stops the glue and activator from soaking in. Always works, never had a problem and the joint is strong. You use less glue and activator. Its cleaner as well. Try it out on a scrap piece you will always use it.
This is pretty much exactly how I do them too, you hit the important points!
Thanks for checking out the vid
“No fancy tools required” …uses a Festool chop saw.
If your saw allows for the space I like to use a make to prevent the little piece getting flung across the room.
In situations where I need to be certain about placement of glued pieces I forgo using the accelerator. I do a test with the brand I have on hand to be sure it eventually hardens.
Will need this tip when I redo the living room as it leads to the hallway. Love the details. Keep ‘em coming.
You could just plunge cut if you don’t have a slide. Don’t even need a fancy blade. Just a slow cut and some painters tape. But either way the technique is in the joining and sanding that makes it perfect
Definitely can work.
Honestly the bottom straight 90 cut in the thumbnail looks just fine and the best to me.
Great instructional video, for those who don’t know how to do this.
A headless pin nailer and standard wood glue work great as well. Make good cuts with a good blade and it won't look like an info-mercial. This seems a little overkill.
Nice vid. Same way I do it. Although, I did not laugh 1 time watching. One thing…. Home Depot does not sell the activator. I think it may make some people grow tails.
I would recommend watching the other 150 vids I’ve made. I’m sure somewhere along the line you will laugh… even if it’s just a slight smirk that still counts!
I use wood glue (Pattex D3 ). Works like a charm, allows for corrections and dries within half an hour.
A lot easier in a workshop. Where as on price work with a pencil sqr a ruler and handsaw. Then either no nails, hitting nails or a drill plugs and screws to fit it to the wall. Plus a saw bench. Or lugging a cross cut saw around the site. It's a good idea to carry a tub of putty to fill gaps in the joint. Otherwise the painter will just use caulk.
I would love to hang out with this man for a week.
What a brilliant video and exactly what I need for a job I have to do.
This works on decent size mouldings and on MDF. We use 11mm thick skirt and arch. It would still be possible but return is tiny. Plus CA glue not so good on pine. Which is our most common material. It is neat on what you use though.
Such a great video bud! Here in the Netherlands its not usual to use moulding because the walls are made of brick or gyporock but i always love the look of moulding and i really wanna start using it in projects, some great tips as always bud! Expecially the CA glue i really need that. Have a great weekend bud🍻🍻
Thanks buddy. I would recommend messing around with the ca glue. It’s handy for a lot of different things.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thanks bud! I will do tgat 4 sure !!
I prefer wood glue and a couple really short 23ga, and yeah, assemble on a flat surface before putting on the wall.
Great tip. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Kid must be back in school. Your "Funny" coefficient has gone back up.
It was a glorious week!
I just stand the base up and make the cut. To keep it from flying away you have to let off the trigger early. I always glue them on with wood glue. If it doesn't stay in tight enough you can use blue masking tape to hold it long enough for the glue to dry.
If you cut it too long, just toss it and cut another piece, don't even think about trying to cut that piece again. Also don't nail the end of the board to the wall until you put the piece in place. Sometimes the baseboard can be sucked in so tight that the little piece doesn't want to fit in there right. If that happens you can pry it out but still.
Jeez. The contractors that did the trim on my house didn't even do a 90 degree cut. All of them are cut at the same 45 as the ones in the corner like they were too lazy to even change the angle on their saw. I knew it didn't look right but I never knew how to fix it until now.
Good video. I actually like the 2nd option you showed for the application by the stairs. Just my opinion. Thanks.
Fine finishing work is difficult for me. Thanks for the secrets. Subbed
Thanks Andy🍻
Man, I love this channel. It always reminds me of my 20-yo self. So many cringe moments! But, hey when there's no one to show you the right way, you must learn the hard way.
Make your return piece long by an inch or two, it really doesn’t matter. Next put tape sticky side up on a good flat surface and your work piece on top so the tape sticks to its face. Now put your return piece so that butts up right next to your trim piece. You’ve probably seen this done with other 45° cuts to make boxes. Brush and a light coating of wood glue and fold the two pieces together so they make a perfect fit. Use a little extra tape to help make sure the whole length stays clamped together and set it aside. After the glue has dried, remove your tape, set your trim piece face side down and take a trim saw designed to cut flat against the surface and cut off the excess on the return, similar to trimming dowels with a little saw. Sand as needed then paint it and easy Peezy perfect return. Just saying there’s more than one way to accomplish the same thing.
I've always used this method for returns in conspicuous places; a poor-man's alternative to the 2 part glue is to simply use Elmer's or some other PVA glue, hold it until it's just tacky enough to not fall off, then put a drop of super glue into each end of the seam to hold it until the PVA dries. Also, in inconspicuous places, particularly aprons under window sills, you can often get way with using a straight cut for the flat portion, an angled cut to get as close as possible to the shape of the routered edge, then use a file to perfect the routered part.
I use painters tape to hold the pieces together while the glue dries.
What a great teacher!
Nicely done, or as I used to do mitre the end then with a coping saw cut following the profile, then a light sand up , no dangerous tiny slithers.
If you need more working time with the CA, just don't use the activator. Just takes longer to set then without.
CA glue is amazing…I can’t believe I only learned about it recently.
You're making it more complicated than it needs to be.
I don’t miter the ends and glue a little piece on. If it’s being painted, I do an inside corner cope at both ends of about a 10” piece of the molding then use that to trace the profile onto the face of the molding where it’s to be returned. I then cope the end of the molding holding my coping saw 90° to the face of the molding creating the return with no small piece to cut or glue on. This only works however if the molding is painted because if not you would see the end grain of the wood.
Yes, and I thought that was the way he was going to do it.
@@dociledeer3818 me too Haha.
LOVE THE DETAIL ................ COVERING ALL THE DO AND DON'TS . most others only generalize THANK YOU !!!!!!
Hi, I love your videos. You are incredibly informative and you make it entertaining. I had a quick question. I have a bunch of french doors with very short runs of baseboard in between. I was wondering if it would be lame to just use the router to 1/4 round off the edge of the baseboard as a return instead of cutting 1000 little pieces for returns. Thanks
I never even though about this. Nice video, a detail I've never noticed
Love the turn down idea....never seen that before.
Thanks for the advice. Please tell me what brand slide miter saw you have in this video. I prefer the pistol grip. Thanks!
Thanks. My wife mentioned the walls that need trim in our home....Now I have no excuse.
Great knowledge. TFC is a master of his trade
Would you ever cut a return on a flat glossy panel. I have some ikea gable stock that needs to be cut but since it is glossy I won't be able to just paint the end. My trim carpenter did a mitre on two panels and was able to join them to a not horrible result but certainly far from perfect. I've tried the return cut but man handling the panel through my 8.25" dewalt table saw using blue tape still resulted in some chip out and while I'll be able to line up and probably glue the return I am not sure how to fix the chip out look on a glossy white panel. The pro answer is likely just order a panel to size and pay for the full paint up and not muck around with the return. In this case the return is the end of panel that butts up to the side of the drawer faces on an island so probably the only one who notices will be me. Thanks for reading! Your finish videos are always excellent, I frequently watch and re-watch each time I am doing a similar task and I love seeing how to achieve the perfect look even if my execution is rarely up to your skill level !
It's easy he says, it'll be fine he says... while using a $1600 chop saw. J/P, great tips!
It is easy. I’ve done it on the cheapy ones too.
“Same blade for the last 15 yrs!” Cracked me up! 😂. Ummm yeah
Or pretty close lol 😉Thanks!!
If it’s a rectangle baseboard is this necessary?
I agree and nicely demonstrated 🙏
Thanks buddy🍻
Great video Thx! White glue is a heck of a lot safer if you don't have adequate ventilation.. read the warnings on the activator can Bro!
good video. ith the gluing whats the spray applicator actually do?
Yep like the guy was saying below there's another self return that you can do I don't have my saw on me or know the exact angles but it's 2:22 and 1/2 cuts inside cuts of course and then a 45 and you return it into the wall instead of the capped end look. It looks good in some situations when you cuz it lets you display the profile of the base instead of terminating it square cut more.
Why does anybody use MDF for baseboard or door casing???? ANY bit of moisture wicking up from the unfinished bottom and that crap swells up and starts looking NASTY. I look forward to hearing opinions on that. Haven't seen the turning down 90 deg to the floor option before, I'll have to try that. Something I like is a 45 deg return on base, chair rail and crown, cutting both pieces on a 22 1/2 deg instead of a 45 deg. Thanks. Everybody take care. I did enjoy the video.
good video. would like to see one on the different glues you use.
Same blade 10 years,cutting roofing shingles . Lol I wish, I cut aluminum porch posts and exhaust pipes. Then I make really ugly baseboard cuts. And sometimes the stuff shatters if it's too small of a piece. Never did find those missing carbide tooth tips! On to my random orbital sander. Never realized you could actually change the blade.
Wow 🤩
I have never come across this method before
Awesome 💪
Question for the master of this channel.
When you have to splice a piece in because it's longer than the length of material when you're doing a long run I always 22 and a half. And I've come out with splices that pretty much look you can't even see them but of course you got to burn your inch or whatever material length to burn when you make those cuts. I was just working on a job recently and I quit on these guys it sucked I was just lame but anyways I shouldn't quit but they were trying to put me on the siding and believe me to fix all their jacked up miters. No worries but it's my first day with the company so anyways I left them but they were doing a 33.6 or 33.8 or whatever that other miter that's already on the saw and using that splice method and their slices look like crap so would 22 1/2 always work for you too?
Thanks for all these videos that really help perfecting carpentry there's always more to learn as my attitude.
Sweet! Making pros out of us amateurs!
Excellent tip as usual! Fatty’s Garage approved!
🍻thanks for checking out the vid
I’ve been doing this for years in the field. We normally just use some pl 400 got to work fast.
A top bearing flush cut router bit (small) with a profile sled is faster and easier. The same applies for all the window aprons. No gluing needed :)
A couple times I made the return too long but with a small moulding with a good flat on the face I could trim it flush with the back at the table saw.
Really good tips! Thank you.🙂