Chicago Local 1 Finish Carpenter. You cope because it adds not only strength but as you show in the video over time with wood movement coped inside corners wont open up like you demonstrate on your 45 degree cut inside corner
If you cope at 5 degrees the inside corners can be off by + or - five degrees. No need to figure the inside angle. Very important when doing crown moulding. You cut it a bit long and spring it.
Only if you leave the coped sticks long enough to snap into place. Too short and they don't look much better than miters. And there also is a methodology for selecting which pieces to cope to create the best look when you walk into a room.
@@BlackStang-gn1ij 'I' wouldn't, but some people don't know that copes should be cut a tad long to allow them to snap into place. That keeps the joints nice and tight. Copes should also have a slight back bevel on them to also allow them to fit tight against the intersecting baseboard.
If I could make a suggestion... when cutting miters for baseboard that aren’t a standard detent (like a 45) it’s better to cut the first piece on that 46 degree and then flip the other piece of base upside down and cut that piece on the same 46 rather than swinging the saw to the 46 on the opposite side. You’re guaranteed to get the same miter by flipping the one side upside and cutting it, rather than hoping you set your saw exactly the same on the other side.
Except you can get tear-out from the saw blade on the finished side of the baseboard by cutting it upside down. Take the time to accurately reset the saw to the other side for a clean cut on both pieces, it is worth it.
I agree. Learned this the hard way when working on my first house. It was a 1932 craftsman and I paid dearly for my mistakes. Sure learned a lot though.
@@jeffreyorgill3866 tenryu silencer 120T 12" blade will minimize blow out, but you could also ensure the blade runs through the material with no blow out, with even a dull blade, if you have a sliding miter saw.
I know I am late to the game on comments. I’ve built hundreds of houses. The reason I coped inside miters was: 1. It made a nice corner easy to finish. 2. It allowed the wood that was being coped to expand and contract without blowing the seams. 3. For crown moulding it would hold your trim in place while you nailed it. One of my favorite ways to fill holes was with some dry drywall compound and mixed with filling putty. It would stay pliable longer so you could fill a lot of holes before it dried and it was easy to sand in paint grade materials. Bondo is incredibly hard and hard to sand. I do not recommend doing that unless you need a level 5 finish. I have used bondo to fill seams in large outside trim moldings because you can sculpt it to match the profile and it prevents the seam separating. Great video.
For a guy who is an average DIY guy may be a touch below at some and a touch better at others, but actually build houses for a living as a general contractor one of the best trim videos I’ve ever seen
@@kgriff087 nah. Maybe at the molecular level. Think about the vector operating x: horizontal inertia y: vertical inertia . Over time S that develops to x*s*friction coefficient, y*10*s *s*friction coefficient (until terminal velocity). X never reaches 0
A tip on the paint grade nail hole filling: Bondo works but has a very short working time, meaning you will constantly be mixing small batches as you go along. Instead, use automotive glazing putty. As an example, 3M makes three grades of putty that come in large tubes and don't require mixing. My favorite is their "Acryl Blue Glazing Putty". I actually started using it as a filling putty for building scale models. The "Blue" goes on smoothly and sands to a feather edge. It does shrink slightly, but if you dab a little more on the hole, you're fine. It also sands much easier than Bondo.
This is a fantastic video. I'm a DIY/Homeowner and I'm redoing all the baseboard in my home because around these here parts you can't find a contractor (they're all very busy) and to be honest I'm looking forward to it. I purchased all the tools and the wood (hardwood baseboard) and I'm starting right after Thanksgiving holiday. Your video answered a ton of questions...and better still it was understandable and easy to follow. I swear, every issue you addressed is in my home. Thanks for the advice.
I painted for a while, we found that we'd have to fill nail holes, patch damage, and of course caulk the top seam and whatever other gaps so pre-painting the first coat was fine but we preferred to do the final coat once they were installed.
There is a time and place for inside miters, and that is when your installing economy grade painted mdf casings that will be caulked on the top. Cutting the inside miters at 44 will keep the face tight and a small gap at the top where you are caulking anyways. Properly nailed the joint won't move and you can install 40% faster with no visible difference. Definitely not for high quality installations or stain grade material, but there is a time and place. 25 years as a carpenter has taught me that sometimes the best value for a client is not spent coping cheap baseboards. I like your pre glued miters around the end wall, I will definitely try that, I usually only do that for small pieces like behind a bifold door
I like what you said about time and place. The other thing is that working professionally, there is a schedule to keep as well. That's not meant to be an excuse to do shoddy work, but you just have to know what circumstances require time and percision and then when its ok to just get it done.
I agree Randy. I learned a phrase years ago that "nobody is willing to pay for perfection". It taught me to balance my desire for perfection with efficiency. Scott
I wish I’d seen this a year ago. An outstanding furniture carpenter slips right into being a great finishing carpenter. Despite being disappointed with not having this for my basement, it is fun, even inspiring, to watch. Bravo Cam.
I greatly appreciate your patience. I thought I was patient until i saw you using a eye-glasses screwdriver to fill all your presumably thousands of brad holes. i am sure it looks incredible. i would lose my mind trying to do it.
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
If you want a perfect color match for filling nail holes grab some of the fine sawdust from the boards you were cutting, mix it with your adhesive (I use slightly diluted carpenter's glue and make a thick paste), fill and sand.
@@carpo719 I work with a lot of black walnut, cherry, several different types of mahogany, and rock maple. It works well for those. Which have you found it doesn't work for?
Can't believe I found this today. On my second stain grade molding project. So many friggin' vids for molding and crown molding, but this is the first video I've found with tips for stain grade. You made my day. I literally just levelled up right now. Subscription entered with a like on the side.
I'm not a pro, but have done a lot of baseboards for myself and for friends, and so have watched a lot of videos on it. This is THE BEST compilation I have seen! Thank you!
@@TheNottonight sorry. As a professional painter for 22 years. Blue tape is so pricey we try to use it as little as possible. Theory.....sounds good. In practice.....not so much. Sure for a home owner that has no idea what they are doing. May work. Also bondo for filling nail holes is way to over the top. I'd fire an employee for doing so. Want a better solution? Try hot mud.
@Jon Holmes There are times to use tape. Never said there wasn't. If you need to use tape to fill holes. You are not a professional, you're actually not even an apprentice. Those are just the facts.
@@glennlavalle9807 personally... I use non-shrinking spackle, but I don't usually have to fill trim holes. You must be doing a ton of trim to make hot mud worth the effort. Do you prime all those spots before painting? Because hot mud doesn't take paint the same way as anything else.
I immediately sent the video to my wife and brother! The painters tape is huge! I think maybe the yellow tape would make spotting the holes afterward easier.
Another advantage of copes is that you don’t need to be as accurate, specifically on longer pieces. You can cut them 1/16” long or so and flex the board into place. If you tried that with a miter, it’s more likely to dig into the drywall and the insides of the miters won’t line up, resulting in an ugly joint.
Great video, thanks. Yes, walls are never straight. I install drywall screws about 1” up from the floor, about every 3’ and especially at the corners. Then I use a plastic straight edge and adjust the screws to the vertical plane of the wall. This keeps the bottom of the baseboard from being pulled in too far. When fitting the corners I will adjust the screws as I am fitting the baseboard for a perfect fit.
Excellent explanations. I had to convince my husband that we should paint the baseboards before installation, now I can SHOW him your video. Thanks so much!
My cope method is to do a 45 cut opposite of his you would normally do an inside miter, flip the piece upside down and remove the bulk of material with second cut (angle is opposite when you flip), trace profile with side of sharpened pencil, then dremel to the contour. Works awesome. I grew up in a finish carpenter shop and my dad did it more like in the video. I learned the new technique just a couple years ago and it works great, anybody can do it.
When you are rounding over those corners on the outside corner, get some normal wood glue in there first, then hit it with some 120 grit paper. That will fill the glue with saw dust to match the material you are using. Then use the larger radius screw driver to round over the corner as you did.. you wont see a thing and the glue will increase the strength of the bond.
I’d struggled also filling nail holes and finally came up with something I think works best. I fill a glue syringe with wood filler and just slightly over fill the hole. You can then go back with a chisel or sandpaper. Mostly I like the control the syringe affords me because it keeps the filler from spreading away from the nail hole.
I never nail skirting ( what we call base boards ) and haven’t for years I use plasterboard foam to stick them to the walls . It’s easier, quicker and far stronger. You would bust the plaster before you managed to get the board off . Plus there is no filling needed
@@plwadodveeefdv why would you want to remove a base board ? Plus you could say that about any building material that’s glued in . How about pipes or cables plastered into a wall ? You need to do damage if you need to repair them ! Well so what that’s what happens with remedial work .
@@paulbackhard6315 clearance, drywall repair, data cabling... if you buy big box baseboards and you're confident you can find an easy match then cool. everything else you mentioned isn't custom and not really equivalent to baseboards
I have many happy customers with basic mdf baseboards and basic 45 degree inside corner cuts. Regular dap is fine, it’s not a lazy approach. Only a bad approach if you apply to much over a small nail hole, or leave excessive dap on the baseboards. When using a small amount and blending in, then wait for dap to dry, and finish with new paint coat, all customers are amazed at how great the baseboards look and how the compliment the new beautiful flooring. I like Your approach and detail. After watching video, this reassures there is usually more than one way to get a job well done. It’s preference and available resources that often determine what approach or technique is used. Nice new baseboards and Happy New Year!
Use a heat gun to melt the wax then wipe clean. Or mix stain grade filler and stain used on wood. Good video for the the new comers. It’s far better to learn correct the first time then to try and brake bad habits!! Always a pleasure to watch your videos. Keep up the good work!!
Yeah, that happened the very first time I worked on a geometric stairwell ( I was very fortunate to be helping a well-respected local craftsman ). It had a 50meter long continuous Oak handrail spiraling up three stories and it looked beautiful. The Architect turned up and decided to have it painted black!
Heard one from a local carpenter. He got a gig for a local mansion and the guy wanted some insanely expensive imported wood. He did the install and it looked great. Few months later, the guy calls him back and hires him to paint it all black. Carpenter said every brush stroke made him physically ill.
Man, I wished I had watched this video before I did my baseboard a few months ago. Another thing. An old credit card (with NO raised numbers) worked well when applying Bondo or lightweight spackle to the hail holes.
Painting is actually my day job, before I was specialized specifically in paint tho, I was a builder/trim carpenter. Having done it both ways, finishing millwork Before & After installation I have to say, for a natural wooden looking trim I totally agree with youZ finish first. However, with a painted trim, Mdf or something similar I find it best to install raw. Then you putty nail holes and seams, and yes for painted millwork, Caulk it to the walls. Then I like to paint the top edge where I caulked with the wall color & comeback after that dries and make my line with frog tape and paper on Both top and bottom sides of the trim and spray it out. Then what your left with (assuming you’ve done everything correctly) is a flawlessly painted millwork package, completely seamless from end to end. Again, that is only for painted millwork. So I supposed I 1/2 agree with you lol
Regarding the feathery (breakable) little part of the cope in cases where the baseboard has a small roundover at top: a fairly easy alternate is a jack miter at top. After you make the vertical miter cut as usual to start the cope process, start your straight cope cut from the bottom of the work piece, but stop cutting just before you get to the roundover. Leave that short bit of the miter in place there. Next, drop the coped piece onto the baseboard it will butt to, so that the little mitered tab you left on the coped piece is sitting on top. Mark that miter line with a knife, and then use a chisel or knife to remove the bit of baseboard under the jack miter so the coped piece can drop down into place. Not very hard to do, and you get the overall benefits of a cope without fussing with or breaking the delicate top of the coped piece. (BTW, I picked up this finish carpentry technique and many more over the years from Gary Katz at This Is Carpentry. The guy is a virtual encyclopedia of pragmatic best practices.)
I've found that patching holes of any kind, nail or otherwise, in wooden and mdf trim is done best with stainable wood filler. Hint: sometimes they require sawdust, so save that after cutting.
To be honest I just took a job working as a "handyman helper" & he is attempting to teach me how to measure, cut & install baseboard and or quarter round. Im just not getting it. So I'm doing extra research in my free time. Thanks Cam. This sincerely helps me a great deal.
I’m a builder in nz and we use mostly paint grade skirtings (base boards) and for filling nail holes we use epoxy blended with micro balloons which makes it easily sandable, doesn’t shrink and is strong as hell !
@@BlacktailStudio Yikes! Just tell her it’s pressed cardboard compacted with cancer glue made at Fukushima. Possession or distribution of MDF for any reason should be punishable by a year in prison. It’s the Wiener meat of wood product. It’s only purpose is to humiliate anyone that uses it, and to destroy craftsmanship as we know it. As a cabinet and Millwork installer of 18 years, I approve this message!
Yup, I'm done with MDF. Total wasted effort trying to make something nice last. Poplar or maple for me. Though, only once, I got to do the most beautiful 3 stepped facia, with rabbits and dados, and frieze board for a 11 000 sq ft house out of Mohogany. I took a picture before they painted it. It was a stone house. Anyway, MDF is junk. Cant glue it cause it can just pull the rest of its sawdust structure away from the glue, way to unstable. And now for the price, you can actually get paint grade hardwoods for less
Vinyl/rubber base installer here. I occasionally dip my toes in millwork base and that corner tool/“glue before applying” tip are awesome, wish I knew about those before. Great video. Also bad walls are the bane of my existence.
Hey cam one last comment tonight I just skip back to the baseboard tricks for everybody.. I am a professional trim Carpenter/cabinet maker.. all the advice you gave was pretty damn good. the one tiny bit of advice I would give for coping.. is once you cut your angle take a mechanical pencil and just run it very lightly sideways on that sharp edge so you can see it better.. other than that let's pretty much how I do my coping anymore I used to use a coping saw but a Dremel really works good! All the detail you can possibly put into stained hardwood trim is worth every second to make it look as perfect as you can!! just like everything else you do amazing attention to detail is why you're so successful!!!
Doesn't even need to be vinyl version. Just any hard spackle is great. quick, no issue with clean up or working time like bondo. Don't even need to sand in most spots, just use a razor blade scraper and cut off excess after it dries.
REALLY useful video! Being new to "woodworking" and trying to restore a 115-year old Arts & Crafts mountain lodge-style home in the middle of a PacNW forest (with no competent contractors within 150 miles), I've probably watched at least 20 videos on this subject-and yours was the most informative to what I want to accomplish. Most if not all, were videos on baseboards that were to be painted. I'm installing 1" x 6" (flat stock) baseboards as well as 1" x 5.5" wall trim (level with door frame tops) BUT naturally stained. My challenges are 1). How to cut the joints- i.e., butt on the inner corners and 45's on the outer? 2). How to ensure no gaps on the 45's? and 3). What to use as a nail /gap filler that best mimics/appears "wood-like" that can be stained? I bought all the necessary tools and equipment...I just lack the knowledge. I guess we're all newbies at one time.
Mike. For filling brad holes in my white baseboards & casings, I use a white wax stick from Lee Valley. I soak it in warm water first, then “smush” it into the hole, followed by a wipe with a towel. Works like a charm.
I remember years ago, my husband had to help his boss with the remodel of the store he worked in. He came home one night complaining about how he had to crawl on the floor painting the baseboards. I said “Why the hell weren’t the baseboards painted before you guys put them on the walls? You just made that job SO much harder for yourselves!” They should’ve consulted with the wife who worked at Home Depot for a couple of years & asked questions & paid attention. Lol
You can paint them white before installing but then you are caulking all cracks and filling all holes. Possibly sanding any spackle you put in the holes. Another full coat will be required anyway. This man's stained trim is the way to go. Outstanding workmanship
Brooks although someone has already guessed it. Just wanted to give you a shout to let you know that your time and effort to make these helpful tips and tricks video is much appreciated.
Barton… of all the great info you provide… the thing I always enjoy the most is your responses to hecklers/detractors. The ‘free epoxy’ one at the end of this video has to be my favorite. Thanks for your videos.
Actually the best way to finish nail holes with paint grade trim is painters putty. Roll a ball up and push it into the hole and break it off then smoothen it out. I did it for years. No need for sanding and it holds paint with no problem 👍. Great video I really like how you explained getting the correct angle. Seen so many people go back and forth trying to figure it out on the saw lol.
So when making a transition for a different floor thickness, it’s best to use a stop block in my opinion which allows you to have a different base board height. Great tips 👍
If the table is smaller, you can use 5/4 if your using a hardwood. I’ve used 5/4 for many smaller/medium tables with no long term problems, but they are usually made from some sort of hardwood. The last one was cherry and it was beautiful. Just make sure it’s braced well (bottom decorative trim helps to hold things together better) and it’s built solid. Glue and nails (or staples), and solid joints. Good luck. 👍
Most table tops are less than an inch thick. The key to success is securing the table top to the base in a way that allows for seasonal wood movement. If you're not familiar with wood movement yet, it's essential knowledge for woodworking. I hope that helps. Scott
Blacktail videos are the only videos I press the like for, he never asks for a like or sub without giving something first, I'll always give a like now just cause it doesn't feel like he forced us to drop a like
depends on how much the customer is willing to pay if i do miters or cope, production builders want it done fast so you do miters, it all depends on the job
"For the big budget....I went and spend $6 of my OWN money...." oh, brother I love it. You've definitely spent plenty of time in aviation, where earning a small fortune started with a large one.
Hey there, I'm a trim carpenter out of the Dallas area. Coping, though not as commonly seen in homes anymore is useful in achieving a high amount of strength in what would be an otherwise weak miter joint. This not only adds strength to a inside corner but also allows a bit of play for the angle and can help creat a surprisingly tight fit when the piece that is coped is just a tiny bit longer that what it measures at. The reason for this is that the cope is allowed to push into the uncoped piece ever so slightly. There are other ways of achieving a tight inside corner with a miter but they may not hold up as well over time, causing the bottoms of the miters to push further inward into the gap between the sheetrock and the slab. Copes are also excellent when you need to join two different profiles like you may see in remodels where that run of material may be different or just not exist anymore. You can create a cope through a variety of methods, from using a cope saw, or a jigsaw or similar to the method used in this video, it's mostly dependant upon the material used. For instance MDF is very soft and can easily be ground out with the step bit as shown but if you have something like oak, you may want to use a jigsaw with a sharp scrolling blade. On another note, the cap is always a great idea, especially when using base that is flat on top there are other profiles that have a cap integrated into them like B11, but they look cheap. Typically when we do a "flat trim" style (where all base and casing is made from 3/4" material and is made to look like a seamless flat surface) we will also run a panel moulding (or PM for short, typically PM5 or PM6) on top of the base and sometimes around all the casing. This really adds some fine detail to an otherwise basic edge and makes it pop. Cool video though man, your base looks great!
Brooks (because why not?). As others have said, I've just purchased my first home and am going to attempt to finish the basement. So I'm absorbing as many videos and learning resources as I can to make that happen. I love the tips / tricks in this video and will likely even get to put a few of them to use. Thanks!
As a finished carpenter in the Southwest I can tell you that many many finished carpenters use mitered inside corners on stained grade materials. Specifically, we glue and counternail inside corners in the same manner as outside corners, ie: prior to nailing to the wall.
Albert, these are actually done new tips I haven't heard before. I have a floor level transition that's been kicking my butt. I'm hopeful I can do it now!
I’ve been a painter and do base boards all the time. If your painting them prime them before putting the baseboard In then paint them installed. Caulk your joints fill the nail holes. They make a putty that works great.
Amazing how people still use baseboards and casings . Great tips for those homes with existing baseboards to repair and keep that old classic look...as well as other woodwork! Btw, that wood type looks great.
I always cope, inside joint look perfect, even 100 years later. I spent a couple years in the seventies making moldings for a 50 man cabinet shop. There are wonderful methods, using several sticks, to build beautiful moldings. Apply moldings as a set.
for the coping portion of the video, seeing him cut just one piece of the mdf sent some serious memories flooding back of my dad showing me how to do this when i was growing up
I found the Starret angle finder about 10yrs ago I think. It's been an integral part of my kit ever since. I would recommend it to anyone that regularly needs to find an angle. I still use my Bevel from time to time but the angle finder has become my go-to tool! Also, I've found that while using a screwdriver to close up external miters is handy on close grain hardwoods or even (God Forbid) MDF, Using something with a bigger diameter like a 12mm or 1\2" drill bit on a softwood with a wide grain gives better results. Nice work by the way!
This is a great video, and very helpful advice. My only critique is the paint grade nail hole filling advice. Using Bondo is too labor intensive. Many years ago, an old time finish carpenter gave me the tip to use glazing putty with your finger. There is no sanding. If it isn’t perfect you can add more (or remove some), and it is ready for paint immediately. It will never shrink or crack either. Thanks for making this tutorial.
Holy cow. I hope to fix up an older house one day, and I know that baseboards can make a huge difference in how the house looks. I'm definintly going to come back to this video, because these tips seem awesome. Thanks for putting it together!
Finish carpenter from Seattle/Bellevue Washington! The main reason you should cope is because wood shrinks linearly so if you use the 45 method you’ll be dealing with both pieces shrinking ending up with a considerably sized gap. But when coped the gap is much smaller and sometimes non existent depending how well your material was dried
This was a great fine on New Year's Day thank you I've been a carpenter for specialized again remodels for about 30 years I have probably ran tens of thousands of feet of trim and I picked up some great nuggets
Great video. Takes a skilled carpenter to install varnish grade trim in a house. Hardwood is always used. Very different from paint grade poplar both in material cost and in skill set needed. Been doing this for close to 50 years and without a doubt you cannot do a good job without using a #49 Nicholson rasp and backing screws put behind baseboard in all those places where a perfect fit is needed. No caulking ever allowed here. Cannot ever cover up or fill in any bad fits doing this type of install using a much harder wood and all fits have to be crisp and clean. Don't overpay for paint grade jobs. Know what you are getting. Edit to say that burr on your drill did a good job on that particle board type base. I gacmve tried those on hardwood and did not do a good job. Too many sharp transitions. One thing I did see someone use was a finger sander. That worked great but I cannot find a cheap one anywhere. It did seem to be the ticket for coped joints though.Alot faster than a rasp but you can really dual in your fit with that #49. Also #50 works too but a little too smooth for me. It also has come to my understanding that all Nicholson files are no longer made in USA. Guys who bought newer ones did not like the quality of them at all. There are other manufacturers who make hand stitched models but they are very expensive, but oh so nice to use.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Chicago Local 1 Finish Carpenter. You cope because it adds not only strength but as you show in the video over time with wood movement coped inside corners wont open up like you demonstrate on your 45 degree cut inside corner
Thanks buddy!
If you cope at 5 degrees the inside corners can be off by + or - five degrees. No need to figure the inside angle. Very important when doing crown moulding. You cut it a bit long and spring it.
Only if you leave the coped sticks long enough to snap into place. Too short and they don't look much better than miters. And there also is a methodology for selecting which pieces to cope to create the best look when you walk into a room.
@@Mike-In-O-Town why would you cut it too short
@@BlackStang-gn1ij 'I' wouldn't, but some people don't know that copes should be cut a tad long to allow them to snap into place. That keeps the joints nice and tight. Copes should also have a slight back bevel on them to also allow them to fit tight against the intersecting baseboard.
If I could make a suggestion... when cutting miters for baseboard that aren’t a standard detent (like a 45) it’s better to cut the first piece on that 46 degree and then flip the other piece of base upside down and cut that piece on the same 46 rather than swinging the saw to the 46 on the opposite side. You’re guaranteed to get the same miter by flipping the one side upside and cutting it, rather than hoping you set your saw exactly the same on the other side.
Agreed
Except you can get tear-out from the saw blade on the finished side of the baseboard by cutting it upside down. Take the time to accurately reset the saw to the other side for a clean cut on both pieces, it is worth it.
@@jeffreyorgill3866 his method is better in some cases, cheap saws usually aren't calibrated to the degrees they show.
I agree. Learned this the hard way when working on my first house. It was a 1932 craftsman and I paid dearly for my mistakes. Sure learned a lot though.
@@jeffreyorgill3866 tenryu silencer 120T 12" blade will minimize blow out, but you could also ensure the blade runs through the material with no blow out, with even a dull blade, if you have a sliding miter saw.
I know I am late to the game on comments. I’ve built hundreds of houses. The reason I coped inside miters was: 1. It made a nice corner easy to finish. 2. It allowed the wood that was being coped to expand and contract without blowing the seams. 3. For crown moulding it would hold your trim in place while you nailed it.
One of my favorite ways to fill holes was with some dry drywall compound and mixed with filling putty. It would stay pliable longer so you could fill a lot of holes before it dried and it was easy to sand in paint grade materials. Bondo is incredibly hard and hard to sand. I do not recommend doing that unless you need a level 5 finish. I have used bondo to fill seams in large outside trim moldings because you can sculpt it to match the profile and it prevents the seam separating. Great video.
For a guy who is an average DIY guy may be a touch below at some and a touch better at others, but actually build houses for a living as a general contractor one of the best trim videos I’ve ever seen
Wow, that great to hear man! I attribute it to the fact that I tried and most more talented people on RUclips don’t try that hard on the video
Agreed. Ditto.
90 degree angles don't exist in nature or in my house, great video.
They exist in a lot of crystals. Table salt for eg
A more obsevable example would be a waterfall....
@@thomaswalsh287 isn't it a continuous curve? If the water has horizontal inertia
@@dougsteel7414 for a short period of time it is a curve, then a straight fall downward...
@@kgriff087 nah. Maybe at the molecular level. Think about the vector operating x: horizontal inertia y: vertical inertia . Over time S that develops to x*s*friction coefficient, y*10*s *s*friction coefficient (until terminal velocity). X never reaches 0
A tip on the paint grade nail hole filling: Bondo works but has a very short working time, meaning you will constantly be mixing small batches as you go along. Instead, use automotive glazing putty. As an example, 3M makes three grades of putty that come in large tubes and don't require mixing. My favorite is their "Acryl Blue Glazing Putty". I actually started using it as a filling putty for building scale models. The "Blue" goes on smoothly and sands to a feather edge. It does shrink slightly, but if you dab a little more on the hole, you're fine. It also sands much easier than Bondo.
Oh really?? I do hate the bondo mixing
Wow ! I've been a finish carpenter for over 7 years and I actuality learn some tips from your video, thank you, I'll be using them for sure 😊
@@joseph7105 nah that's cabinet carpenters. Finish is base, trim, crown, setting doors etc. Occasionally cabinet guys will do crown on their cabinets
This is a fantastic video. I'm a DIY/Homeowner and I'm redoing all the baseboard in my home because around these here parts you can't find a contractor (they're all very busy) and to be honest I'm looking forward to it. I purchased all the tools and the wood (hardwood baseboard) and I'm starting right after Thanksgiving holiday. Your video answered a ton of questions...and better still it was understandable and easy to follow. I swear, every issue you addressed is in my home. Thanks for the advice.
I painted for a while, we found that we'd have to fill nail holes, patch damage, and of course caulk the top seam and whatever other gaps so pre-painting the first coat was fine but we preferred to do the final coat once they were installed.
I second that, so many reasons to install first then paint or stain.
The tape trick for wood filler is great. 40 years as a carpenter and still learning. Thx
There is a time and place for inside miters, and that is when your installing economy grade painted mdf casings that will be caulked on the top. Cutting the inside miters at 44 will keep the face tight and a small gap at the top where you are caulking anyways. Properly nailed the joint won't move and you can install 40% faster with no visible difference. Definitely not for high quality installations or stain grade material, but there is a time and place. 25 years as a carpenter has taught me that sometimes the best value for a client is not spent coping cheap baseboards. I like your pre glued miters around the end wall, I will definitely try that, I usually only do that for small pieces like behind a bifold door
That’s a good point Randy
I like what you said about time and place. The other thing is that working professionally, there is a schedule to keep as well. That's not meant to be an excuse to do shoddy work, but you just have to know what circumstances require time and percision and then when its ok to just get it done.
Nobody inside miters paint grade speed base.
Just butt the corners in and caulk
There. I just saved you hours of extra unnecessary work.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 wow.. keep up the good work.
I agree Randy. I learned a phrase years ago that "nobody is willing to pay for perfection". It taught me to balance my desire for perfection with efficiency. Scott
I wish I’d seen this a year ago. An outstanding furniture carpenter slips right into being a great finishing carpenter. Despite being disappointed with not having this for my basement, it is fun, even inspiring, to watch. Bravo Cam.
I greatly appreciate your patience. I thought I was patient until i saw you using a eye-glasses screwdriver to fill all your presumably thousands of brad holes. i am sure it looks incredible. i would lose my mind trying to do it.
Painters tape over the baseboard before nailing & hole filling is BRILLIANT!!! Love it thanks for the share
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
If you want a perfect color match for filling nail holes grab some of the fine sawdust from the boards you were cutting, mix it with your adhesive (I use slightly diluted carpenter's glue and make a thick paste), fill and sand.
That works well for certain types of wood but I found that it's not always the best method for Hardwoods
@@carpo719 I work with a lot of black walnut, cherry, several different types of mahogany, and rock maple. It works well for those. Which have you found it doesn't work for?
Can't believe I found this today. On my second stain grade molding project. So many friggin' vids for molding and crown molding, but this is the first video I've found with tips for stain grade. You made my day. I literally just levelled up right now. Subscription entered with a like on the side.
Love it man! Glad I can help
Been a finish carpenter since 2003 and avid RUclips enjoyer since 2011! Great video sir! Respect 🙌
AMAZING!!!! I’m super OCD about stuff like this as well and i was always told no one cares about the details. I always told them I care!
I'm not a pro, but have done a lot of baseboards for myself and for friends, and so have watched a lot of videos on it. This is THE BEST compilation I have seen! Thank you!
Thanks Larry!
Oliver or Taylor. I like the blue tape and filling in nail holes. Genius.
Would get pretty pricey in a whole house install.
@@glennlavalle9807 not really. You can save so much more time and time equals more money in your pocket.
@@TheNottonight sorry. As a professional painter for 22 years. Blue tape is so pricey we try to use it as little as possible. Theory.....sounds good. In practice.....not so much. Sure for a home owner that has no idea what they are doing. May work. Also bondo for filling nail holes is way to over the top. I'd fire an employee for doing so. Want a better solution? Try hot mud.
@Jon Holmes There are times to use tape. Never said there wasn't. If you need to use tape to fill holes. You are not a professional, you're actually not even an apprentice. Those are just the facts.
@@glennlavalle9807 personally... I use non-shrinking spackle, but I don't usually have to fill trim holes. You must be doing a ton of trim to make hot mud worth the effort. Do you prime all those spots before painting? Because hot mud doesn't take paint the same way as anything else.
Brooks,
The idea of using painters tape before shooting the nails in was genius . Thanks
Ya man!
I immediately sent the video to my wife and brother! The painters tape is huge! I think maybe the yellow tape would make spotting the holes afterward easier.
Another advantage of copes is that you don’t need to be as accurate, specifically on longer pieces. You can cut them 1/16” long or so and flex the board into place. If you tried that with a miter, it’s more likely to dig into the drywall and the insides of the miters won’t line up, resulting in an ugly joint.
Great video, thanks. Yes, walls are never straight. I install drywall screws about 1” up from the floor, about every 3’ and especially at the corners. Then I use a plastic straight edge and adjust the screws to the vertical plane of the wall. This keeps the bottom of the baseboard from being pulled in too far. When fitting the corners I will adjust the screws as I am fitting the baseboard for a perfect fit.
Excellent explanations. I had to convince my husband that we should paint the baseboards before installation, now I can SHOW him your video. Thanks so much!
Yup! Unless it’s new construction with no paint or flooring
My cope method is to do a 45 cut opposite of his you would normally do an inside miter, flip the piece upside down and remove the bulk of material with second cut (angle is opposite when you flip), trace profile with side of sharpened pencil, then dremel to the contour. Works awesome. I grew up in a finish carpenter shop and my dad did it more like in the video. I learned the new technique just a couple years ago and it works great, anybody can do it.
When you are rounding over those corners on the outside corner, get some normal wood glue in there first, then hit it with some 120 grit paper. That will fill the glue with saw dust to match the material you are using. Then use the larger radius screw driver to round over the corner as you did.. you wont see a thing and the glue will increase the strength of the bond.
I’d struggled also filling nail holes and finally came up with something I think works best. I fill a glue syringe with wood filler and just slightly over fill the hole. You can then go back with a chisel or sandpaper. Mostly I like the control the syringe affords me because it keeps the filler from spreading away from the nail hole.
I never nail skirting ( what we call base boards ) and haven’t for years I use plasterboard foam to stick them to the walls . It’s easier, quicker and far stronger. You would bust the plaster before you managed to get the board off . Plus there is no filling needed
@@paulbackhard6315 this sucks ass when they need to be temporarily removed
@@plwadodveeefdv why would you want to remove a base board ? Plus you could say that about any building material that’s glued in . How about pipes or cables plastered into a wall ? You need to do damage if you need to repair them ! Well so what that’s what happens with remedial work .
@@paulbackhard6315 clearance, drywall repair, data cabling... if you buy big box baseboards and you're confident you can find an easy match then cool. everything else you mentioned isn't custom and not really equivalent to baseboards
I have many happy customers with basic mdf baseboards and basic 45 degree inside corner cuts.
Regular dap is fine, it’s not a lazy approach. Only a bad approach if you apply to much over a small nail hole, or leave excessive dap on the baseboards.
When using a small amount and blending in, then wait for dap to dry, and finish with new paint coat, all customers are amazed at how great the baseboards look and how the compliment the new beautiful flooring.
I like Your approach and detail. After watching video, this reassures there is usually more than one way to get a job well done. It’s preference and available resources that often determine what approach or technique is used.
Nice new baseboards and Happy New Year!
Use a heat gun to melt the wax then wipe clean. Or mix stain grade filler and stain used on wood. Good video for the the new comers. It’s far better to learn correct the first time then to try and brake bad habits!! Always a pleasure to watch your videos. Keep up the good work!!
Jeremy! I love watching base board install. I'd like to see a future video going over other tough install spots.
What I learned watching this video is as a finish carpenter I'm really, really good at what I do.
That’s not a compliment Boran.
@@BlacktailStudio I'm dying over here! haha
That's what I was thinking as I watched, lol
The sad part is that no matter how beautiful that baseboard looks now, in a few years someone will have the brilliant idea of painting it white...
Yeah, that happened the very first time I worked on a geometric stairwell ( I was very fortunate to be helping a well-respected local craftsman ). It had a 50meter long continuous Oak handrail spiraling up three stories and it looked beautiful. The Architect turned up and decided to have it painted black!
I know my silly wife is painting our whole house white. I miss my wood tones
Need something to go with my Ikea artwork.
Heard one from a local carpenter. He got a gig for a local mansion and the guy wanted some insanely expensive imported wood. He did the install and it looked great.
Few months later, the guy calls him back and hires him to paint it all black. Carpenter said every brush stroke made him physically ill.
@@CLove511 the mansion owner lost the president election so he wanted to paint black to remind him that black people didn’t vote for him…LOL
Man, I wished I had watched this video before I did my baseboard a few months ago. Another thing. An old credit card (with NO raised numbers) worked well when applying Bondo or lightweight spackle to the hail holes.
Painting is actually my day job, before I was specialized specifically in paint tho, I was a builder/trim carpenter. Having done it both ways, finishing millwork Before & After installation I have to say, for a natural wooden looking trim I totally agree with youZ finish first. However, with a painted trim, Mdf or something similar I find it best to install raw. Then you putty nail holes and seams, and yes for painted millwork, Caulk it to the walls. Then I like to paint the top edge where I caulked with the wall color & comeback after that dries and make my line with frog tape and paper on Both top and bottom sides of the trim and spray it out. Then what your left with (assuming you’ve done everything correctly) is a flawlessly painted millwork package, completely seamless from end to end. Again, that is only for painted millwork. So I supposed I 1/2 agree with you lol
Regarding the feathery (breakable) little part of the cope in cases where the baseboard has a small roundover at top: a fairly easy alternate is a jack miter at top. After you make the vertical miter cut as usual to start the cope process, start your straight cope cut from the bottom of the work piece, but stop cutting just before you get to the roundover. Leave that short bit of the miter in place there. Next, drop the coped piece onto the baseboard it will butt to, so that the little mitered tab you left on the coped piece is sitting on top. Mark that miter line with a knife, and then use a chisel or knife to remove the bit of baseboard under the jack miter so the coped piece can drop down into place. Not very hard to do, and you get the overall benefits of a cope without fussing with or breaking the delicate top of the coped piece. (BTW, I picked up this finish carpentry technique and many more over the years from Gary Katz at This Is Carpentry. The guy is a virtual encyclopedia of pragmatic best practices.)
Omg! That painter’s tape trick for mdf is perfect! I have a whole house worth of trim to do and nail holes are always the worst part!
Thank you! - G
I'm not sure whybhe didn't use that for the saddle and colored fillers. Works just as well.
Bob, nice job. I’ve been a carpenter for 40 years and I have to say I’ve learned from your video. I really like the tape on the mdo trick
Wallace .
Filling nail holes is the bane of my existence . I absolutely love that painters tape trick .
The painters tape trick is great. My least favorite part, especially w crown, is filling the nail holes. I'll have to remember that in the future!
Great eye for detail. There are a lot of “good enough guys” out there.
Thanks Matt!
I've found that patching holes of any kind, nail or otherwise, in wooden and mdf trim is done best with stainable wood filler. Hint: sometimes they require sawdust, so save that after cutting.
To be honest I just took a job working as a "handyman helper" & he is attempting to teach me how to measure, cut & install baseboard and or quarter round. Im just not getting it. So I'm doing extra research in my free time. Thanks Cam. This sincerely helps me a great deal.
I’m a builder in nz and we use mostly paint grade skirtings (base boards) and for filling nail holes we use epoxy blended with micro balloons which makes it easily sandable, doesn’t shrink and is strong as hell !
Fantastic tips. I learned so much from this. Would love to see a follow up explaining how to finish with caulk.
Loved you response to this weeks troll. "Got the epoxy for free"
😂 😆
Sapiel base boards is amazing in a world cursed with MDF everything.
My wife wanted me to replace these with mdf...
@@BlacktailStudio Yikes! Just tell her it’s pressed cardboard compacted with cancer glue made at Fukushima. Possession or distribution of MDF for any reason should be punishable by a year in prison. It’s the Wiener meat of wood product. It’s only purpose is to humiliate anyone that uses it, and to destroy craftsmanship as we know it.
As a cabinet and Millwork installer of 18 years, I approve this message!
Yup, I'm done with MDF. Total wasted effort trying to make something nice last. Poplar or maple for me. Though, only once, I got to do the most beautiful 3 stepped facia, with rabbits and dados, and frieze board for a 11 000 sq ft house out of Mohogany. I took a picture before they painted it. It was a stone house. Anyway, MDF is junk. Cant glue it cause it can just pull the rest of its sawdust structure away from the glue, way to unstable. And now for the price, you can actually get paint grade hardwoods for less
@@NickFortier painted over mahogany?!?! Madness
@@BlacktailStudio did you ask for a divorce? HAHAHA
Vinyl/rubber base installer here. I occasionally dip my toes in millwork base and that corner tool/“glue before applying” tip are awesome, wish I knew about those before. Great video.
Also bad walls are the bane of my existence.
Hey cam one last comment tonight I just skip back to the baseboard tricks for everybody.. I am a professional trim Carpenter/cabinet maker.. all the advice you gave was pretty damn good. the one tiny bit of advice I would give for coping.. is once you cut your angle take a mechanical pencil and just run it very lightly sideways on that sharp edge so you can see it better.. other than that let's pretty much how I do my coping anymore I used to use a coping saw but a Dremel really works good! All the detail you can possibly put into stained hardwood trim is worth every second to make it look as perfect as you can!! just like everything else you do amazing attention to detail is why you're so successful!!!
A better way on small outside miters is to tape them first. Then you can fold them together like a hinge
Vinyl spackle is the way to go for paint grade nail holes
I’m with this too. Don’t get me wrong, Bondo is great but I really like the lack of shrink, working time and ease of sanding you get w/ spackle.
Doesn't even need to be vinyl version. Just any hard spackle is great. quick, no issue with clean up or working time like bondo. Don't even need to sand in most spots, just use a razor blade scraper and cut off excess after it dries.
Great video. Helping someone do some renovations on an old home and this had me asking them questions I would never think to ask.
REALLY useful video!
Being new to "woodworking" and trying to restore a 115-year old Arts & Crafts mountain lodge-style home in the middle of a PacNW forest (with no competent contractors within 150 miles), I've probably watched at least 20 videos on this subject-and yours was the most informative to what I want to accomplish. Most if not all, were videos on baseboards that were to be painted.
I'm installing 1" x 6" (flat stock) baseboards as well as 1" x 5.5" wall trim (level with door frame tops) BUT naturally stained. My challenges are 1). How to cut the joints- i.e., butt on the inner corners and 45's on the outer? 2). How to ensure no gaps on the 45's? and 3). What to use as a nail /gap filler that best mimics/appears "wood-like" that can be stained?
I bought all the necessary tools and equipment...I just lack the knowledge. I guess we're all newbies at one time.
Mike. For filling brad holes in my white baseboards & casings, I use a white wax stick from Lee Valley. I soak it in warm water first, then “smush” it into the hole, followed by a wipe with a towel. Works like a charm.
I’ll have to try those
I remember years ago, my husband had to help his boss with the remodel of the store he worked in. He came home one night complaining about how he had to crawl on the floor painting the baseboards. I said “Why the hell weren’t the baseboards painted before you guys put them on the walls? You just made that job SO much harder for yourselves!” They should’ve consulted with the wife who worked at Home Depot for a couple of years & asked questions & paid attention. Lol
Agreed!
You can paint them white before installing but then you are caulking all cracks and filling all holes. Possibly sanding any spackle you put in the holes. Another full coat will be required anyway. This man's stained trim is the way to go. Outstanding workmanship
We aren't building a piano lol I'm going to use that one. New sub👷👍
Thanks Jose!
If you are doing your own trim, you can take all the time you need and get it perfect. If you do it professionally, that’s not always an option
Brooks although someone has already guessed it. Just wanted to give you a shout to let you know that your time and effort to make these helpful tips and tricks video is much appreciated.
Barton… of all the great info you provide… the thing I always enjoy the most is your responses to hecklers/detractors. The ‘free epoxy’ one at the end of this video has to be my favorite. Thanks for your videos.
Actually the best way to finish nail holes with paint grade trim is painters putty. Roll a ball up and push it into the hole and break it off then smoothen it out. I did it for years. No need for sanding and it holds paint with no problem 👍. Great video I really like how you explained getting the correct angle. Seen so many people go back and forth trying to figure it out on the saw lol.
So when making a transition for a different floor thickness, it’s best to use a stop block in my opinion which allows you to have a different base board height. Great tips 👍
Wayne. No idea, that guess just popped into my head. 🤞
Thomas, what is the minimum thickness you would comfortably make a table from?
1.5” or so
If the table is smaller, you can use 5/4 if your using a hardwood. I’ve used 5/4 for many smaller/medium tables with no long term problems, but they are usually made from some sort of hardwood. The last one was cherry and it was beautiful. Just make sure it’s braced well (bottom decorative trim helps to hold things together better) and it’s built solid. Glue and nails (or staples), and solid joints. Good luck. 👍
Most table tops are less than an inch thick. The key to success is securing the table top to the base in a way that allows for seasonal wood movement. If you're not familiar with wood movement yet, it's essential knowledge for woodworking. I hope that helps. Scott
I really like the taping over the nail spot. Brilliant!
Blacktail videos are the only videos I press the like for, he never asks for a like or sub without giving something first, I'll always give a like now just cause it doesn't feel like he forced us to drop a like
John, that reply to the troll is priceless lmao 😂
Cheers 🍻
Literally priceless.. lol
depends on how much the customer is willing to pay if i do miters or cope, production builders want it done fast so you do miters, it all depends on the job
cope some more. You'll get faster. and no time spent fixing inside miters.
"For the big budget....I went and spend $6 of my OWN money...." oh, brother I love it. You've definitely spent plenty of time in aviation, where earning a small fortune started with a large one.
I know right??
Hey there, I'm a trim carpenter out of the Dallas area. Coping, though not as commonly seen in homes anymore is useful in achieving a high amount of strength in what would be an otherwise weak miter joint. This not only adds strength to a inside corner but also allows a bit of play for the angle and can help creat a surprisingly tight fit when the piece that is coped is just a tiny bit longer that what it measures at. The reason for this is that the cope is allowed to push into the uncoped piece ever so slightly. There are other ways of achieving a tight inside corner with a miter but they may not hold up as well over time, causing the bottoms of the miters to push further inward into the gap between the sheetrock and the slab. Copes are also excellent when you need to join two different profiles like you may see in remodels where that run of material may be different or just not exist anymore. You can create a cope through a variety of methods, from using a cope saw, or a jigsaw or similar to the method used in this video, it's mostly dependant upon the material used. For instance MDF is very soft and can easily be ground out with the step bit as shown but if you have something like oak, you may want to use a jigsaw with a sharp scrolling blade.
On another note, the cap is always a great idea, especially when using base that is flat on top there are other profiles that have a cap integrated into them like B11, but they look cheap. Typically when we do a "flat trim" style (where all base and casing is made from 3/4" material and is made to look like a seamless flat surface) we will also run a panel moulding (or PM for short, typically PM5 or PM6) on top of the base and sometimes around all the casing. This really adds some fine detail to an otherwise basic edge and makes it pop.
Cool video though man, your base looks great!
Appreciate the feedback from someone with experience, thanks man!
Best video I have seen on the internet regarding this subject. Best!!!!!
Wow, thanks so much!
paint grade trim use paint grade spackle, automotive bound is fine but they make stuff for nail holes.
Thanks for the feedback!
Yup. Bondo is definitely overkill. And gnarly in the chemical exposure department. Spackle is perfect for nail holes in paint grade.
Not a fan it shrinks and you can always see the nail holes
Middle name...🤔. I'm going guess "Wood Stallion".
Phillip??? This was the best trim video I ever saw! Awesome tips in a short amount of time!!!
Damn. This is approachable and achievable. Super appreciated
One of the nicest finish trim video I've see. Great tips!
Brooks (because why not?). As others have said, I've just purchased my first home and am going to attempt to finish the basement. So I'm absorbing as many videos and learning resources as I can to make that happen. I love the tips / tricks in this video and will likely even get to put a few of them to use. Thanks!
As a finished carpenter in the Southwest I can tell you that many many finished carpenters use mitered inside corners on stained grade materials. Specifically, we glue and counternail inside corners in the same manner as outside corners, ie: prior to nailing to the wall.
Albert, these are actually done new tips I haven't heard before. I have a floor level transition that's been kicking my butt. I'm hopeful I can do it now!
There ya go!
I’ve been a painter and do base boards all the time. If your painting them prime them before putting the baseboard In then paint them installed. Caulk your joints fill the nail holes. They make a putty that works great.
Amazing how people still use baseboards and casings . Great tips for those homes with existing baseboards to repair and keep that old classic look...as well as other woodwork! Btw, that wood type looks great.
Thank you for not being selfish with your knowledge
McCarthy, great video! Very helpful, I work as a full time production carpenter, and we use sapele for about 50% of our products, beautiful wood!
I've done a lot of baseboards in my day, and I've never seen the screwdriver trick. Brilliant!
Oh nice!
great tips- glad you included the last one with painters tape!
I always cope, inside joint look perfect, even 100 years later. I spent a couple years in the seventies making moldings for a 50 man cabinet shop. There are wonderful methods, using several sticks, to build beautiful moldings. Apply moldings as a set.
Rupert. There are some great tips there, stuff I'd never thought of! Thanks!
I recently tried your method to superglue your outside mitre joints and man why didn't I think of that, what a great suggestion, thanks
Your videos are so easy to understand, precise and simple
Thanks bud
Alexander and I love those baseboards. Beautiful work.
for the coping portion of the video, seeing him cut just one piece of the mdf sent some serious memories flooding back of my dad showing me how to do this when i was growing up
I found the Starret angle finder about 10yrs ago I think. It's been an integral part of my kit ever since. I would recommend it to anyone that regularly needs to find an angle. I still use my Bevel from time to time but the angle finder has become my go-to tool!
Also, I've found that while using a screwdriver to close up external miters is handy on close grain hardwoods or even (God Forbid) MDF, Using something with a bigger diameter like a 12mm or 1\2" drill bit on a softwood with a wide grain gives better results.
Nice work by the way!
I'm just here to admire that beautiful ribbon Sapele!!
This is a great video, and very helpful advice. My only critique is the paint grade nail hole filling advice. Using Bondo is too labor intensive.
Many years ago, an old time finish carpenter gave me the tip to use glazing putty with your finger. There is no sanding. If it isn’t perfect you can add more (or remove some), and it is ready for paint immediately. It will never shrink or crack either.
Thanks for making this tutorial.
One of the truest things youve ever said, inside miters is the work of an amateur, professionals cope. 👍👏
We're in the process of redoing our kitchen, so perfect timing on this video... :)
Holy cow. I hope to fix up an older house one day, and I know that baseboards can make a huge difference in how the house looks. I'm definintly going to come back to this video, because these tips seem awesome. Thanks for putting it together!
Finish carpenter from Seattle/Bellevue Washington!
The main reason you should cope is because wood shrinks linearly so if you use the 45 method you’ll be dealing with both pieces shrinking ending up with a considerably sized gap. But when coped the gap is much smaller and sometimes non existent depending how well your material was dried
This was a great fine on New Year's Day thank you I've been a carpenter for specialized again remodels for about 30 years I have probably ran tens of thousands of feet of trim and I picked up some great nuggets
Great video. Takes a skilled carpenter to install varnish grade trim in a house. Hardwood is always used. Very different from paint grade poplar both in material cost and in skill set needed.
Been doing this for close to 50 years and without a doubt you cannot do a good job without using a #49 Nicholson rasp and backing screws put behind baseboard in all those places where a perfect fit is needed.
No caulking ever allowed here. Cannot ever cover up or fill in any bad fits doing this type of install using a much harder wood and all fits have to be crisp and clean. Don't overpay for paint grade jobs. Know what you are getting.
Edit to say that burr on your drill did a good job on that particle board type base. I gacmve tried those on hardwood and did not do a good job. Too many sharp transitions. One thing I did see someone use was a finger sander. That worked great but I cannot find a cheap one anywhere. It did seem to be the ticket for coped joints though.Alot faster than a rasp but you can really dual in your fit with that #49. Also #50 works too but a little too smooth for me. It also has come to my understanding that all Nicholson files are no longer made in USA. Guys who bought newer ones did not like the quality of them at all. There are other manufacturers who make hand stitched models but they are very expensive, but oh so nice to use.
I never comment or even like & sub but this video deserves all 3! excellent work and tips. thank you from one home builder to another.