I know that you made this video 4 years ago so this comment will be 4 years old. I wanted to thank you for making this video because I have a 1979 John Deere 310-B with the same problem and I was going down the same road to try to fix it myself with no back ground in heavy equipment repair and I had reached a dead end until I watched your video. It fixed the problem for me and I am so glad about that.Again thank you and the mechanic that did the actual work. I too believe that they are simple machine if you know what you are doing.
I just wanted to take the time to give you a huge thank you for this video! My backhoe is currently stuck right in front of my machine shed where we drop off hey. I ran out of fuel there. It's actually in a very difficult place to work on but now that I know what to do it won't be so bad. Can't thank you enough!
Just to follow up on my previous comment... The source of the problem was indeed a clogged ball valve. The remedy of cleaning this out got me going and let me finish last year's work before winter. This year, it kept happening, to the point where it was clogging a couple times a day. After a year of being on the forums, the cause is the "flex ring" in the injector pump disintegrating, with little bits getting lodged in the ball valve. If this starts happening to you, then you will definitely need to have the pump rebuilt in the near future. I just pulled mine and sent it out to a noted "pump master" in SC on one of the heavy equipment forums. He will be replacing the plastic flex ring with an updated component, which should make it last much longer. On the forums, some noted that removing the ball valve is not at all a good remedy, though some have done so to keep them going for a while. I would be careful doing so, and consider joining one of the forums to get some free feedback. It was so good to know that it was not a number of other problems, e.g. the engine itself. This was a good diagnostic test, and enabled me to do extended research on the subject. I have no reservations at all sending mine out for rebuild. This is running me $760 including the updated "gooder" flex ring parts. I was not going to attempt to rebuild the pump myself. I have done quite a few semi-impressive repairs for someone with limited experience, e.g. front crankcase seal (oil was pouring out and getting everywhere in the engine compartment), replaced the hydraulic pump, repaired the radiatior and heater core+heater fan, and rebuilt both swing cylinders and both stabilizer cylinders. And learned a lot in the process.
I just started having this problem today and thanks for a great video on the repair. Mine is a 83 410B . New right away it was a fuel issue. Thanks for the help-Aaron’s yard
Omg. I own the same backhoe since 1995. You guys found the checkball. An extra trick is to blow air with air compressor and blow gun(rubber nipple) on that return line up into tank. Make sure the lid is off tank first. This will agitate debris loose that accumulated into bottom of tank against inlet/outlet. One more step beyond that is to take fuel tank out. Black plastic tank that deteriorates. I am about to do that to mine. One more issue beyond that is that a seal or component inside injector pump is deteriorated and is swallowing itself clogging that check ball. I would like to put an old fashioned glass inline debris trap/filter on the return line. Right now I’m diagnosing my 310c with an issue regarding weak hydraulics.... a 310c is efficient, tough and simple in the right hands. I think the negatives are short outriggers among a few other small issues.
Hi, I have same issue regarding power loss ... mine is actually stalling and dying. Fuel filter change didn't do anything at all. Today I sucked out a lot of gunk on the bottom of fuel tank and noticed that the filter/screen/mesh appears to be fully coated with gunk. How would I be able to get that mesh out? Can that be replaced?
hi, i would like to blow my return line out too. Just need some advcice. is there a video or something? wondering what size the rubber nipple would be, and where would you start blowing it out?
I had to stop by and say Thank You! This pointed to the exact source of problem I was having with my 310c. I changed the fuel filter (which did not fix) and this was all that was wrong. It was a 15 minute fix. Still getting used to heavy machinery repair,and this was very helpful. Thanks again!
Great video. The wifey explains and understands pretty good. You guys should make more videos like this. I just bought the same backhoe. Haven’t gotten it yet, but was told it stalls when trying to use the hydraulics. Found your video and have a feeling mine will have the same issue. Thanks for the education.
I want to thank you for this video. I had the exact problem driving it home from a friends house (no good deed goes unpunished). Replaced filter but the key was the regulating fittings. Back to as good as it was before. Big chunk hanging out of it. Now if you have any info on shifting linkage, that would be helpful. Can't get into 3rd and 4th, better much stuck in 2nd gear. Keep cool
I just purchased a 310B and this video was not only done with quality but with expertise that I very much appreciate! It really helps to get all the information possible on a particular tractor. I have other questions if I could ask. I'm just not sure if it's appropriate asking here. I'm a retired Veteran with much Aircraft experience but not diesel engines..lol.
Patrick Hastings Feel free to ask away! If you want to message privately, you can reach me on Facebook messenger under the same name ‘Desert Hava Garden.’
Thanks so much for the replies! As i mentioned, my JD 310B runs great. My issue is it wont move fwd or back when the lever near the steering column is put in fwd or revrse. Theres a lot of slack there. Some say it may be a clutch. That being the case, when the BH attempts to move forward or backwards all the hydraulic components like the shovel tend to not respond. Im perplexed in that is the clutch dependent on hydraulics or is it mechanical? Crackin the case im sure is a job but nothing compared to pullin a motor from an F4e Phantom. Lol. Thanks in advance for any help!!
All attachments are hydraulic in addition to the drive and clutch. There is a hydraulic fluid dip stick for the clutch on the passenger side center of the tractor just behind the hydraulic tank that you can check. It has a t-handle on it that you loosen and it pulls out to check the fluid level. Low fluid or a bad clutch could be the problem. There is a sight glass on the side of the hydraulic fluid tank and the fluid needs to be at least visible on the glass. Hope that helps!
My 310C had the same problem. Went to JD shop and they told me to just knock out the glass ball in that fitting and expect it to last for a long time. If filter was the problem the injectors would plug up long before this ball valve would.
Thanks! I had the same problem w/ my 1984 John Deere 310B. I was able to take apart and clean just like you did. I was wondering if you can remove the glass bead and clean that part that holds the bead and install the bead. I couldn’t figure that part out.
Don’t know how old your video is but it’s difficult to find videos on 310C models. I just resealed my swing cylinders and outriggers. Do you have any specs for the accelerator/engine control linkage located just below the accelerator pedal? My springs broken. Just would like to see a video. May make one myself.
did your tractor continue to run strong after repair? i am working on a 210c that has a powe loss. seems the fuel tank stainer is not allowing fuel to flow as well as it should. i will replace it tommorrow. already replced filter and i will check the fuel pressure regulator,thanks for the video.
Carrie Schultz Because a bunch of debris got in the system prior to the repair, we’ve had to clean it out a couple more times. But after clearing it out, it works well again. Good luck!
This video is superb ! Very well done, clear and concise. Thanks. My friend has just bought a 1986 J. Deere 310A. The left rear wheel is driving the unit, but the right rear wheel is not. We've been told there is a half shaft that is possibly out on the right side. Any ideas on what it may be, and how to check it?
Could be a half shaft or a planetary set in the hub. They can use the stabilizers and buckets to lift the tractor off the ground and remove the wheel that won’t spin. Then put it on blocks or large jack stands. Then pull the hub assembly apart to get the axle out. Might get lucky and just slide a new shaft in....
@@DesertHavaGarden thanks so much. We have a digital manual for the 310A, and it says that the rear bucket must be removed to replace the axle shaft. I believe the rear bucket weighs over 3000 pounds, so removal seems like a bit of a nightmare. We certainly hate to remove it if not necessary.
Rick isn’t sure if it would need to come off without looking at it. We have sold the ranch and the tractor as part of the package so we can’t currently reference ours. 😞
Thanks so much for this video. I have a 310b. My problem is the tractor will start up and stay running for about 15 seconds and then abruptly dies out. While running the gas pedal/ throttle will raise the rpm. I've got to the point of checking the return line and checking that part you cleaned at the end of your video. Which is the glass check valve with a little glass bb sized ball in it. I didn't know that came apart!! So I will try that tommorow. I see you had the problem/ symptom was loss of power. So I was wondering if you had any ideas to help me with my symptoms. I'm leaning towards it's sucking air from somewhere. Also when I take the return line off I don't have a stream of fuel like you did? I will have to watch the video again. Maybe there's a way I can blow out my return line? I honestly have never had this problem and I've owned the backhoe for 8 years. I've gone over alot of the machine and love it. So I'm willing to do whatever it takes to get it going strong again.
I had the same problem.. it started to have fuel knock after running it like that while trying to fix it. Ended up needing to get the injector pump rebuilt. Don’t go cheap on it and make sure to get the damn ring replaced.
Rick I have a IH 3616 loader with a 3141 backhoe that keeps stalling when I put power to the backhoe. Loader seems fine but backhoe keeps stalling the tractor when trying to use it. Did complete tune up, replaced fuel, put hydraulic fluid in and changed fuel filter but it keeps stalling the motor and killing the battery. Moving backhoe up and bucket use always stalls it?
My John Deere Backhoe 310C goes into reverse right away, but hesitates and doesn't want to go into reverse for a minute or two. I never had this issue before. If I pump the throttle, while in gear, it will finally begin to go forward. Any ideas why I have this problem?
The engine is worn out. When they get old the compression drops making it harder to start, but they’ll still run fine. Using the starting fluid is actually bad for it. It damages the engine and makes the problem worse.
I see you are using red tacky grease. My 1988 510C loader/backhoe specifies 3-5% MoSo2 grease. Tractor supply has3% cheap! Molybdenum disulfide does not come out of fabrics so wear beat up clothing. Look for joints that purge water, rusty water is indicative of possibly serious corrosion on pins,etc. and requires inspection..
Развлечения
I know that you made this video 4 years ago so this comment will be 4 years old. I wanted to thank you for making this video because I have a 1979 John Deere 310-B with the same problem and I was going down the same road to try to fix it myself with no back ground in heavy equipment repair and I had reached a dead end until I watched your video. It fixed the problem for me and I am so glad about that.Again thank you and the mechanic that did the actual work. I too believe that they are simple machine if you know what you are doing.
I just wanted to take the time to give you a huge thank you for this video! My backhoe is currently stuck right in front of my machine shed where we drop off hey. I ran out of fuel there. It's actually in a very difficult place to work on but now that I know what to do it won't be so bad. Can't thank you enough!
Just to follow up on my previous comment... The source of the problem was indeed a clogged ball valve. The remedy of cleaning this out got me going and let me finish last year's work before winter. This year, it kept happening, to the point where it was clogging a couple times a day.
After a year of being on the forums, the cause is the "flex ring" in the injector pump disintegrating, with little bits getting lodged in the ball valve. If this starts happening to you, then you will definitely need to have the pump rebuilt in the near future. I just pulled mine and sent it out to a noted "pump master" in SC on one of the heavy equipment forums. He will be replacing the plastic flex ring with an updated component, which should make it last much longer.
On the forums, some noted that removing the ball valve is not at all a good remedy, though some have done so to keep them going for a while. I would be careful doing so, and consider joining one of the forums to get some free feedback.
It was so good to know that it was not a number of other problems, e.g. the engine itself. This was a good diagnostic test, and enabled me to do extended research on the subject. I have no reservations at all sending mine out for rebuild. This is running me $760 including the updated "gooder" flex ring parts.
I was not going to attempt to rebuild the pump myself. I have done quite a few semi-impressive repairs for someone with limited experience, e.g. front crankcase seal (oil was pouring out and getting everywhere in the engine compartment), replaced the hydraulic pump, repaired the radiatior and heater core+heater fan, and rebuilt both swing cylinders and both stabilizer cylinders. And learned a lot in the process.
I just started having this problem today and thanks for a great video on the repair. Mine is a 83 410B . New right away it was a fuel issue.
Thanks for the help-Aaron’s yard
i built golf course for landscapes unlimited in late 80s , this vid is likely just what i needed for my JD410 thanks
Omg. I own the same backhoe since 1995. You guys found the checkball. An extra trick is to blow air with air compressor and blow gun(rubber nipple) on that return line up into tank. Make sure the lid is off tank first. This will agitate debris loose that accumulated into bottom of tank against inlet/outlet. One more step beyond that is to take fuel tank out. Black plastic tank that deteriorates. I am about to do that to mine. One more issue beyond that is that a seal or component inside injector pump is deteriorated and is swallowing itself clogging that check ball. I would like to put an old fashioned glass inline debris trap/filter on the return line. Right now I’m diagnosing my 310c with an issue regarding weak hydraulics.... a 310c is efficient, tough and simple in the right hands. I think the negatives are short outriggers among a few other small issues.
Hi, I have same issue regarding power loss ... mine is actually stalling and dying. Fuel filter change didn't do anything at all. Today I sucked out a lot of gunk on the bottom of fuel tank and noticed that the filter/screen/mesh appears to be fully coated with gunk. How would I be able to get that mesh out? Can that be replaced?
It will usually pop out, but you may have to back flush it. Sometimes it is attached to the fitting that will unscrew from the tank. Good luck!
hi, i would like to blow my return line out too. Just need some advcice. is there a video or something? wondering what size the rubber nipple would be, and where would you start blowing it out?
I had to stop by and say Thank You! This pointed to the exact source of problem I was having with my 310c. I changed the fuel filter (which did not fix) and this was all that was wrong. It was a 15 minute fix. Still getting used to heavy machinery repair,and this was very helpful. Thanks again!
BTW, the Fuel Filter had a lot of crap inside, and it needed it. I also changed engine oil, which really needed it.
So glad it helped! Thanks for letting me know!
Great video. The wifey explains and understands pretty good. You guys should make more videos like this.
I just bought the same backhoe. Haven’t gotten it yet, but was told it stalls when trying to use the hydraulics. Found your video and have a feeling mine will have the same issue. Thanks for the education.
Good luck!
This video literally saved the day for me!!! Very good video and worked perfectly for me thank you!!
One of the more helpful videos out there. Great job! Thanks for asking so many questions for clarification.
Fixed my loss of power by cleaning ball valve. Thanks
I want to thank you for this video. I had the exact problem driving it home from a friends house (no good deed goes unpunished).
Replaced filter but the key was the regulating fittings. Back to as good as it was before. Big chunk hanging out of it.
Now if you have any info on shifting linkage, that would be helpful.
Can't get into 3rd and 4th, better much stuck in 2nd gear.
Keep cool
I just purchased a 310B and this video was not only done with quality but with expertise that I very much appreciate! It really helps to get all the information possible on a particular tractor. I have other questions if I could ask. I'm just not sure if it's appropriate asking here. I'm a retired Veteran with much Aircraft experience but not diesel engines..lol.
Patrick Hastings Feel free to ask away! If you want to message privately, you can reach me on Facebook messenger under the same name ‘Desert Hava Garden.’
My husband was an aviation mechanic in the Marine Corps many years ago too 😉
Thanks so much for the replies! As i mentioned, my JD 310B runs great. My issue is it wont move fwd or back when the lever near the steering column is put in fwd or revrse. Theres a lot of slack there. Some say it may be a clutch. That being the case, when the BH attempts to move forward or backwards all the hydraulic components like the shovel tend to not respond. Im perplexed in that is the clutch dependent on hydraulics or is it mechanical? Crackin the case im sure is a job but nothing compared to pullin a motor from an F4e Phantom. Lol. Thanks in advance for any help!!
All attachments are hydraulic in addition to the drive and clutch. There is a hydraulic fluid dip stick for the clutch on the passenger side center of the tractor just behind the hydraulic tank that you can check. It has a t-handle on it that you loosen and it pulls out to check the fluid level. Low fluid or a bad clutch could be the problem. There is a sight glass on the side of the hydraulic fluid tank and the fluid needs to be at least visible on the glass. Hope that helps!
My 310C had the same problem. Went to JD shop and they told me to just knock out the glass ball in that fitting and expect it to last for a long time. If filter was the problem the injectors would plug up long before this ball valve would.
Your injection pump is bad. That is fiber from a washer inside pump that plugs up glass ball in check valve.
Thanks! I had the same problem w/ my 1984 John Deere 310B. I was able to take apart and clean just like you did. I was wondering if you can remove the glass bead and clean that part that holds the bead and install the bead. I couldn’t figure that part out.
Good day, I have a 310sg that is not going into 4wd do you have any recommendations?
Don’t know how old your video is but it’s difficult to find videos on 310C models. I just resealed my swing cylinders and outriggers. Do you have any specs for the accelerator/engine control linkage located just below the accelerator pedal? My springs broken. Just would like to see a video. May make one myself.
did your tractor continue to run strong after repair? i am working on a 210c that has a powe loss. seems the fuel tank stainer is not allowing fuel to flow as well as it should. i will replace it tommorrow. already replced filter and i will check the fuel pressure regulator,thanks for the video.
Carrie Schultz Because a bunch of debris got in the system prior to the repair, we’ve had to clean it out a couple more times. But after clearing it out, it works well again. Good luck!
This video is superb ! Very well done, clear and concise. Thanks. My friend has just bought a 1986 J. Deere 310A. The left rear wheel is driving the unit, but the right rear wheel is not. We've been told there is a half shaft that is possibly out on the right side. Any ideas on what it may be, and how to check it?
Could be a half shaft or a planetary set in the hub. They can use the stabilizers and buckets to lift the tractor off the ground and remove the wheel that won’t spin. Then put it on blocks or large jack stands. Then pull the hub assembly apart to get the axle out. Might get lucky and just slide a new shaft in....
@@DesertHavaGarden thanks so much. We have a digital manual for the 310A, and it says that the rear bucket must be removed to replace the axle shaft. I believe the rear bucket weighs over 3000 pounds, so removal seems like a bit of a nightmare. We certainly hate to remove it if not necessary.
Rick isn’t sure if it would need to come off without looking at it. We have sold the ranch and the tractor as part of the package so we can’t currently reference ours. 😞
@@DesertHavaGarden It is okay. Thanks so much !
@@DesertHavaGarden got some questions. Any other way to contact you? I've never made a comment on a video before. Not sure how or if it work
Just had my injector pump and injectors replaced. But my tractor dies when I press the break in forward. I’m stumped
Thanks so much for this video. I have a 310b. My problem is the tractor will start up and stay running for about 15 seconds and then abruptly dies out. While running the gas pedal/ throttle will raise the rpm. I've got to the point of checking the return line and checking that part you cleaned at the end of your video. Which is the glass check valve with a little glass bb sized ball in it. I didn't know that came apart!! So I will try that tommorow. I see you had the problem/ symptom was loss of power. So I was wondering if you had any ideas to help me with my symptoms. I'm leaning towards it's sucking air from somewhere. Also when I take the return line off I don't have a stream of fuel like you did? I will have to watch the video again. Maybe there's a way I can blow out my return line? I honestly have never had this problem and I've owned the backhoe for 8 years. I've gone over alot of the machine and love it. So I'm willing to do whatever it takes to get it going strong again.
I had the same problem.. it started to have fuel knock after running it like that while trying to fix it. Ended up needing to get the injector pump rebuilt. Don’t go cheap on it and make sure to get the damn ring replaced.
Rick I have a IH 3616 loader with a 3141 backhoe that keeps stalling when I put power to the backhoe. Loader seems fine but backhoe keeps stalling the tractor when trying to use it. Did complete tune up, replaced fuel, put hydraulic fluid in and changed fuel filter but it keeps stalling the motor and killing the battery. Moving backhoe up and bucket use always stalls it?
Does the loader struggle to lift if the bucket is full?
@@DesertHavaGarden I just purchased it and haven't tried it with the bucket full.
Just been working to get the backhoe operating. Bucket lifts fine but never had it full.
That would tell you if the engine is low on power. It is difficult to diagnose from afar.
My John Deere Backhoe 310C goes into reverse right away, but hesitates and doesn't want to go into reverse for a minute or two. I never had this issue before. If I pump the throttle, while in gear, it will finally begin to go forward. Any ideas why I have this problem?
Sounds like low pressure, so either low fluid, plugged filter, or hydrostatic pump going bad.
There’s a screen inside the solenoid on the gearbox that needs cleaning. It fixes that
I have a backhoe 410 jd I always need spray to starter what you think is the problem
The engine is worn out. When they get old the compression drops making it harder to start, but they’ll still run fine. Using the starting fluid is actually bad for it. It damages the engine and makes the problem worse.
have you ever watched hamvillie farms trying to start A John Deere 310G backhoe will not start
I have not.
go help Hank from Hamilton farms he can't get a john deere 310 backhoe run only runs on starting fluid
Ok
I see you are using red tacky grease. My 1988 510C loader/backhoe specifies 3-5% MoSo2 grease. Tractor supply has3% cheap! Molybdenum disulfide does not come out of fabrics so wear beat up clothing. Look for joints that purge water, rusty water is indicative of possibly serious corrosion on pins,etc. and requires inspection..
Clean out fuel tank and screen