How’s it going Pete, I have a question I bought a 1955 Chevy pickup bed side reproduction panel and it has electro galvanized coating on it. Can it be top coated? Or does it need to be stripped down? Ps keep up the good work been watching and subscribed for years 👍🏼
Excellent video Pete, thanks for helping people out there prevent a great deal of heartache down the road. I’ve learned this stuff the hard way over the years, and nothing is more frustrating than getting rust bubbles coming up years later-especially when you’ve taken a car to bare, done all the hard work, and yet the bodywork still fails because someone misled by telling you regular 2k primer on bare metal is a good enough foundation..🤦🏻♂️! There’s no substitute for an epoxy primer/sealer! Wish I had seen this video 30 years ago 😂
Pete you said you use PPG products have you ever used there 2050 high build Epoxy Primer this stuff is sandable and fills a lot of imperfection ,it's expensive but does a great job
What you did works well as long as you get 100% color coverage. If the color is a poor hider, it may require extra coats to cover. Some colors will allow the differences in the sealer and primer colors show through. Especially BCCC systems. Good info none the less!
Im not sure if have answered this question yet 69 corvette had som weather exposed fiberglass for years should i use or not some epoxy on the bare weather exposed glass or not. Is laying down a coat or two before i use the gen2 f/e high build set me straight ive done body work my whole life not alot of fiberglass prep what should i do I've learned alot from your videos thanks hope to hear from you
I always thought 2k urethane primer is urethane....hence not epoxy....and epoxy. Is what it says epoxy...ureathane and epoxy are two different things... What goes on is places tell people that you can reduce you 2k primer urethane and make it a sealer coat... But still it is not an epoxy sealer!.. They even tell you in the data sheets that you can thin epoxy primer for better leveling.... They also tell you how to prepare the surface you going to epoxy seal and not all epoxy sealers recommend the same prep some allow the use of phosphoric acid prepping the metal others do not... You must read the data sheet to be 100% sure...but still urethane and epoxy are two different chemicals... I'm old school and on metal that has some rust and has been stripped I do not like epoxy 1st... I like a 2k self etching primer and then a epoxy as the sealer with urethane as my sanding primer... On complete clean metal the epoxy is my first choice...but always read the material data sheet for whatever product your using they are free online.
Agree with you on bare metal epoxy as your corrosion protection and then urethane as a surfacer that’s what I was always taught….im a diesel mechanic who hung around a body shop after work and wanted to learn
Hey Pete, thank you for another great video! What is the part number of the Wyp-Alls you use please. They sell a confusing bunch of different wipes and not all are lint-free. Thank you!
I bought some epoxy after some research and first comment was: add reducer to your urethane primer and turns to an epoxy! This confusing is still out there. Different resin and mix ratios but always go with TDS for proper use, ask your supplier or website customer support for this type of questions.
Your correct people took it that way just like chrome moly piston ring there is no such thing there are moly faced rings and there are hard chrome faced ring but no chrome moly rings! People invented them in their head just like 134a is not Freon ..but people use the word Freon generically to cover all refrigerants...but it's not correct.
Awesome video, there are two types of primer 1. Sealer(epoxy) 2. Surfacing primer. People get confused because everyone says the word "primer" without specifying which primer😆 End of story!!
I'd curious to know what brand of 2K primer that claims if you add reducer it turns into epoxy. I use PPG JP35x primer surfacer. The data sheet says you can use it as a wet on wet sealer by adding some clear. Maybe the other stuff is magic LOL!
Pete,Enjoy your Channels,What Type Of After Market AirConditioning System Do You Recommend For A 1969 Mustang Mach-1 ?..Currently Rebuilding One.Thanks
Hey there Pete. I thought in one of your other videos, you implied, sealer had to cure for 15 hours… Am I mistaken? Just curious. I’m on a slow journey. Trying to gain enough knowledge to body work and paint my 69’ nova.
Pete can you show us the process on a small bare metal panel. From bare metal to colour including epoxy, body filler, hi fill, slick sand polyester, colour n clear.
@@apiratetew8476 most epoxies have a decently long topcoat window time. I spray two wet coats of epoxy and let them set up for several hours, then come in and spray three heavy coats of 2k to block out. This will immediately show the areas that need attention (lows-rough up and skim) (highs-tap down) then prime spots heavy 2 coats of 2k, and coat everything with one last coat. Block down again.. etc. once everything blocks out with 36-40grit, jump to 80 grit. Once it’s straight with 80… it’s straight! Jump to 180, 320, etc.. for surface prep, seal and shoot
If you're referring to these parts he just spot-primed with epoxy sealer, I expect he's going right to paint after removing any dry overspray with a WypAll. If you read the technical data sheet (TDS) for the brand of Epoxy you are using, you will see there is a "window" of time where you can paint right over the unsanded/unscuffed epoxy and the paint will adhere. My advice is to stay on the shorter end of that window, because things like temperature can lessen it a bit.
@jeff666p I don't apply filler over epoxy. Pete doesn't either. I know some folks do, and the TDS might say you can, but is it good practice? I like a good mechanical bond, and if you hit the epoxy with 36 grit (or even 80) to get that good bond, the epoxy is coming off. I do use epoxy to protect, when I can't get back to something for a while, but then grind it off and fill. Hope this helps
Long time listener first time caller. Taking a truck to bare metal. Whole truck had bedliner on it Once truck is bare metal I’ll need to epoxy the whole truck correct? Also some parts I’ve got have what look to be good paint Is it needed or worth it to take them to bare metal or can I trust the paint that’s on it and go over it with a 2k ? Another dumb question is how much epoxy is a good base line to mix up for spraying hood and fenders and doors?
If the existing paint is just one type as in the original paint you don't have to epoxy it. But if its laquer or has multiple colors you should epoxy. If it had laquer i would make sure to remove it down to metal. If your panels prepped to 180 grit you can reduce the epoxy ( you don't have to reduce) and spray the entire thing as a sealer then add your high build primer on top and block it down. If it's a restoration you would remove all the paint. But for average paint job you seal over final prep. If you decide not to seal you may end up using more paint. Sealer is cheaper than paint....remember there are many ways to paint your stuff.
If i apply 2k epoxy primer (sealer) to a bare metal panel (dtm) to seal it and then return to apply a 2k high fill primer or polyester over the sealer so that i have a surface to block sand, the tds says the high fill and polyester should be applied to a sanded surface. Which means i have to sand the sealer??????
As I understand it, if you are applying the high fill and polyester during "the window" period, which can be as much as 7(?) days, depending on the epoxy sealer you used, then no sanding is required because that period allows chemical bonding to take place. I'm not a professional, that's just my understanding, so don't take my word as final and absolute. After the window, the sealer needs to be sanded to create a mechanical bond with whatever goes on top of it.
Pete, Excellent. You can teach. Been so long since you have done this. Most of the time this venue is your steam outlet for stuff that upsets you and I have my own issues so watching someone having a hissy fit is not my thing. I did learn a couple tips and thank you. If you can stay like this, I guarantee your views will go up.
I remember wayyy back when my boss tried this new stuff.i couldn't sand it off no matter how hard i tried.he was so angry he let a salesman sell this to him.i believe it was a sealer.he never tried it again.peace....
So much contraversy over what epoxy primer is and how to use it.. I hope this clears things up.. Leave a comment and tell me what you think.
Love from Bangladesh ❤❤❤
How’s it going Pete, I have a question I bought a 1955 Chevy pickup bed side reproduction panel and it has electro galvanized coating on it. Can it be top coated? Or does it need to be stripped down? Ps keep up the good work been watching and subscribed for years 👍🏼
Thank you Pete for clearing up some of the confusion out there.
Excellent video Pete, thanks for helping people out there prevent a great deal of heartache down the road. I’ve learned this stuff the hard way over the years, and nothing is more frustrating than getting rust bubbles coming up years later-especially when you’ve taken a car to bare, done all the hard work, and yet the bodywork still fails because someone misled by telling you regular 2k primer on bare metal is a good enough foundation..🤦🏻♂️! There’s no substitute for an epoxy primer/sealer! Wish I had seen this video 30 years ago 😂
Thanks MO Restorations..
Thanks Pete for this video i was confused about this myself.
Pete you said you use PPG products have you ever used there 2050 high build Epoxy Primer this stuff is sandable and fills a lot of imperfection ,it's expensive but does a great job
Thanks for the tips, Pete.
What you did works well as long as you get 100% color coverage. If the color is a poor hider, it may require extra coats to cover. Some colors will allow the differences in the sealer and primer colors show through. Especially BCCC systems. Good info none the less!
Thanks for clarifying my friend Pete
Great video! Very informative 👏. Thank you
Im not sure if have answered this question yet 69 corvette had som weather exposed fiberglass for years should i use or not some epoxy on the bare weather exposed glass or not. Is laying down a coat or two before i use the gen2 f/e high build set me straight ive done body work my whole life not alot of fiberglass prep what should i do I've learned alot from your videos thanks hope to hear from you
I always thought 2k urethane primer is urethane....hence not epoxy....and epoxy. Is what it says epoxy...ureathane and epoxy are two different things... What goes on is places tell people that you can reduce you 2k primer urethane and make it a sealer coat... But still it is not an epoxy sealer!.. They even tell you in the data sheets that you can thin epoxy primer for better leveling.... They also tell you how to prepare the surface you going to epoxy seal and not all epoxy sealers recommend the same prep some allow the use of phosphoric acid prepping the metal others do not... You must read the data sheet to be 100% sure...but still urethane and epoxy are two different chemicals... I'm old school and on metal that has some rust and has been stripped I do not like epoxy 1st... I like a 2k self etching primer and then a epoxy as the sealer with urethane as my sanding primer... On complete clean metal the epoxy is my first choice...but always read the material data sheet for whatever product your using they are free online.
Agree with you on bare metal epoxy as your corrosion protection and then urethane as a surfacer that’s what I was always taught….im a diesel mechanic who hung around a body shop after work and wanted to learn
Thank you.
Great information 👍
Hey Pete, thank you for another great video! What is the part number of the Wyp-Alls you use please. They sell a confusing bunch of different wipes and not all are lint-free. Thank you!
They never claimed urethane primer reduced to be an epoxy sealer. They claimed it to be a urethane sealer which it is and works fine.
I bought some epoxy after some research and first comment was: add reducer to your urethane primer and turns to an epoxy! This confusing is still out there. Different resin and mix ratios but always go with TDS for proper use, ask your supplier or website customer support for this type of questions.
Your correct people took it that way just like chrome moly piston ring there is no such thing there are moly faced rings and there are hard chrome faced ring but no chrome moly rings! People invented them in their head just like 134a is not Freon ..but people use the word Freon generically to cover all refrigerants...but it's not correct.
Awesome video
Thanks Pete! 👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome video, there are two types of primer 1. Sealer(epoxy) 2. Surfacing primer. People get confused because everyone says the word "primer" without specifying which primer😆 End of story!!
What about etch primer?
Good afternoon Pete. Quick question. If I was to buy an epoxy sealer can I use a hardener from another manufacturer or from the same manufacturer?
You are the best!
I'd curious to know what brand of 2K primer that claims if you add reducer it turns into epoxy. I use PPG JP35x primer surfacer. The data sheet says you can use it as a wet on wet sealer by adding some clear. Maybe the other stuff is magic LOL!
Pete,Enjoy your Channels,What Type Of After Market AirConditioning System Do You Recommend For A 1969 Mustang Mach-1 ?..Currently Rebuilding One.Thanks
Is it ok to spray over 2 different colors I guess what I'm saying is the 2k is lighter color than the epoxy paint cover will be ok?
I’ve been told it’s needed to do different colors so when sanding you can see the epoxy before you get to metal again
Hey there Pete.
I thought in one of your other videos, you implied, sealer had to cure for 15 hours… Am I mistaken?
Just curious. I’m on a slow journey. Trying to gain enough knowledge to body work and paint my 69’ nova.
Pete can you show us the process on a small bare metal panel. From bare metal to colour including epoxy, body filler, hi fill, slick sand polyester, colour n clear.
Will you go to 2k primer right away or will you allow this to cure and sand before the primer
@@apiratetew8476 most epoxies have a decently long topcoat window time. I spray two wet coats of epoxy and let them set up for several hours, then come in and spray three heavy coats of 2k to block out. This will immediately show the areas that need attention (lows-rough up and skim) (highs-tap down) then prime spots heavy 2 coats of 2k, and coat everything with one last coat. Block down again.. etc. once everything blocks out with 36-40grit, jump to 80 grit. Once it’s straight with 80… it’s straight! Jump to 180, 320, etc.. for surface prep, seal and shoot
If you're referring to these parts he just spot-primed with epoxy sealer, I expect he's going right to paint after removing any dry overspray with a WypAll. If you read the technical data sheet (TDS) for the brand of Epoxy you are using, you will see there is a "window" of time where you can paint right over the unsanded/unscuffed epoxy and the paint will adhere. My advice is to stay on the shorter end of that window, because things like temperature can lessen it a bit.
@@lcar9871 the 1k epoxy I’m using says through cure 20 min at 68f. Would I be able to apply filler after that or should I wait a day or two?
@jeff666p I don't apply filler over epoxy. Pete doesn't either. I know some folks do, and the TDS might say you can, but is it good practice? I like a good mechanical bond, and if you hit the epoxy with 36 grit (or even 80) to get that good bond, the epoxy is coming off. I do use epoxy to protect, when I can't get back to something for a while, but then grind it off and fill. Hope this helps
@@lcar9871 I'm watching a video of him putting bondo on a primer surface
Long time listener first time caller. Taking a truck to bare metal. Whole truck had bedliner on it Once truck is bare metal I’ll need to epoxy the whole truck correct? Also some parts I’ve got have what look to be good paint Is it needed or worth it to take them to bare metal or can I trust the paint that’s on it and go over it with a 2k ? Another dumb question is how much epoxy is a good base line to mix up for spraying hood and fenders and doors?
Dont mix up a big batch, small batches, if you mix up big batch, it will harden up on you in no time
If the existing paint is just one type as in the original paint you don't have to epoxy it. But if its laquer or has multiple colors you should epoxy. If it had laquer i would make sure to remove it down to metal. If your panels prepped to 180 grit you can reduce the epoxy ( you don't have to reduce) and spray the entire thing as a sealer then add your high build primer on top and block it down. If it's a restoration you would remove all the paint. But for average paint job you seal over final prep. If you decide not to seal you may end up using more paint. Sealer is cheaper than paint....remember there are many ways to paint your stuff.
If i apply 2k epoxy primer (sealer) to a bare metal panel (dtm) to seal it and then return to apply a 2k high fill primer or polyester over the sealer so that i have a surface to block sand, the tds says the high fill and polyester should be applied to a sanded surface. Which means i have to sand the sealer??????
As I understand it, if you are applying the high fill and polyester during "the window" period, which can be as much as 7(?) days, depending on the epoxy sealer you used, then no sanding is required because that period allows chemical bonding to take place. I'm not a professional, that's just my understanding, so don't take my word as final and absolute. After the window, the sealer needs to be sanded to create a mechanical bond with whatever goes on top of it.
Wussup my guy Pete
2K Epoxy primer every time here😁
Pete, Excellent. You can teach. Been so long since you have done this. Most of the time this venue is your steam outlet for stuff that upsets you and I have my own issues so watching someone having a hissy fit is not my thing. I did learn a couple tips and thank you. If you can stay like this, I guarantee your views will go up.
Have you ever used SPI Epoxy Primer? It's supposed to be sandable.
I usually just sand my epoxy primer to deal with orange peel.
I remember wayyy back when my boss tried this new stuff.i couldn't sand it off no matter how hard i tried.he was so angry he let a salesman sell this to him.i believe it was a sealer.he never tried it again.peace....
Shoulda mentioned that epoxy is a sealer.
Damn auto body is a real shitty career
I think they mean wet on wet bro,
Look into spi products!! Use them!! Forget the rest of the other bullshit and move on with your life.