How To Prime Your Car With 2K Primer - UPOL DTM Primer Review
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- How To Prime Your Car With 2K Primer - UPOL DTM Primer Review
#primer #painting #car #diyautoschool
We use the UPOL DTM Primer to find out if it's as good as it's supposed to be. We use the Upol Primer 2253 and use it on a Classic Plymouth Roadrunner to find out if it's worth using. Watch this video and you'll see the results..
UPOL Primer 2253:
u-pol.com/en-u...
Make sure to check out the DIY AUTO SCHOOL STORE -- swrncdiy-auto-school-gear.creator-spring.com/ -- for some great stuff to help SUPPORT MY FRIEND PETE! THanks for watching..
Pete i am 71 years old and have never painted a car before. I bought a 1965 Mustang fastback in parts and after watching many of your videos I am going to try and paint the car myself. So far it is a lot of work but in 2K primer and looking good so far. Thanks for all of your hard work
Sounds like a fun project
Pete I'M SO DAMN HAPPY you did a review on this primer... we literally JUST YESTERDAY based and cleared one of my kids truck and it cleared like GLASS absolutely ZERO orange had 2 tiny runs in the corner tail lens area and there is ZERO defects! NO WET SAND POLISH it's road ready after cure and wax.
I attribute the quality of the job #1 learning from YOU the last 5+ years and some help from a few other fellas but no one GETS ME OFF MY ASS TO GET SHIT DONE LIKE MY FRIEND PETE!
I saw you had issues with dry blocking... I've used PPG in the past which sands a lil' easier but dude we just cannot afford it. I actually sanded off my first shot of FORD EBONY BLACK base on the bed of this 150 because I could see 400 dry block sand scratches in the base... ripped it off cause I wanted this BLACK BLASTARD to be perfect as possible... we re-sanded the entire truck primer coat for 2 days with 600 wet then again 800 wet, had to mix a lil' more UPOL 2K to shoot tiny sand through spots here and there. I gave all those lil' spots 30 min of IR, barely touched them with 800 wet wiped the bitch down re-shot the base and I knew right then and there it's was gonna be jam up. 3 light coats of shopline plus ebony black blastard base then 2 light 1 heavy of UPOL HS clear and NO FKN SANDPAPER OR POLISH will hit this truck its MIRROR GLASS SMOOTH straight as a fkn arrow.
Most valuable thing I've learned to date from MY FRIEND Pete is IT'S ALLLLLL IN THE PREP folks... if you get off your ass, BUST your ass in the body work + primer blocking, and spend the time to final shoot on a marble flat substrate YOU PRODUCED and be CLEAN as possible you will end up with far better than factory results that will last a lifetime I have the receipts my friends it's in our shop being final assembled.
THANKS for all you AND MINNIE do for us in the TRULY small business and DIY world to help US become better professionals from your 30 years of back, body, ball and KNEE busting experience! And thank you for actually sharing the TRUE good/bad/ugly of every situation.... it's hard af to find REAL folk that want to help their fellow man these days... you've been an enormous blessing to us ALL.
Hello to all the DIY auto school and my friend Pete family out there here and abroad from sunny central FLAWDUH, ya'll take it easy and let's GET UP OFF OUR ASS AND GET SOME SHIT DONE!!! 🤙🇺🇸🙏 -Joe
Ive used this upol primer for over 3 years now on all my products. Works very well. Tech tip: always put it on a shaker before use. Its thin because the materials settle at the bottom very quickly.
You ever use it as a sealer?
@@jeremywblanks Good question and yes! It was easy to find the TDS papers & 3 ways of mixing make what you want and tinting in gray tones is an option. Don't take my word but; Buy itself= high build, 4:1 w/hardener is primer, 4:1:2 w/urethane reducer is sealer...ready for color!
#2 Zahn cup (16-18 secs) has a hole 2.4mm / 0.11" Base. So, as Pete found out, it thickens with hardener and urethane reducer at 4:1:2 and 2-3 hr pot life and 2 year shelf if stored from 50-72 degrees F. So, good stuff!
Best of luck on your project!
Ive used it a few times as sealer on bright colors and havent had paint fall off yet
Was introduced to this 2253 in auto body school. The instructors swore by it and I can see why. I love using it on my projects. It is a good high build and sands very smooth. I wonder if it is better in our arid climate? I'm in Arizona and so it's not much different than Utah. Just hotter. The supply shops have a lot of it. You can tell what product is preferred locally by how much shelf space they give it.
That was the best advice about 2k primer ever. I don't understand why you don't have a million viewers. ? You really know your stuff. Can't you get supplies over the internet? Keep up the good work. I always watch ever one of your videos, even when you lose you mind. Lol Neal
Pete is the real deal and shares what works and always does it right !
@B. Neal Lee >Matrix, PPG, Sherwin-Williams, BASF, AkzoNoble (Sikkens, Glasurit, Wanda) are sold thru dealer networks that product in dollars, training, color matching & sales all call on the collision industry. They will have stores to purchase product for most. But is a town or small city can only support 2 or 3 collision shops, they may not be there.
The key is the mixing bank or resins, dryers, pigments and training is required before it comes to town. Your local body shop may not sell you a gallon of product, hardener or reducer on request. Like real estate, it is location.
It is a strange world for manufacture, distribution, dealer, jobber and walk in prices. I get nervous it a store is in expensive part of town, leased property, high-end architecture, marble floors and granite counter tops. I want quality paint products, not a loan for a 42 foot boat.
I would prefer wood floors and a 60 year old building paid for that is away from the high rent district.
@@deankay4434 I kind of thought it was that way. Sad. Getting supplies would be that hard. Thanks for the information. Neal
@@lawncuttingplusdelta IF it's not right he does it over without any questions. Neal
@@b.neallee7042 As New York, Delaware and California are tighter than the national rule, it makes a company less likely to invest in this product to make a living is there is no consistency in the market place. I am sure the contract the companies have them enter allow or forbid any company from selling online. "The good & bad" The sales gal or guy is going to sell you what makes them money. Many have an entry label line and high end main line. Tell you the cheaper stuff does no cover as well as the other. Just used by used car lots to save money. But, even high-end color gets checked for coverage as it come to the painter. How many times they turn on their $400 "Sun Light" flashlight and booth lights off. Then look for thin area's! They all do. Pete has said before, that spraying your epoxy, then primer give you an idea of how to spray, where to spray and find the tricky areas. I see young guys do this... then I wonder, did they learn this from Pete 11 years ago painting fiberglass "Street Beast" kit cars? It's possible.
I am a tech, not a painter. But doing research to catch up to new chemistry in this industry because the one I am doing, is finally for me! Not the family car or sons project. So do it right, do it once, enjoy a long time! Best of luck as everything keeps changing!
DK.
I really like when she put you in your place and you don’t say nothing ha ha well, you missed it❤😂 bring tears to my eyes
Upol is an awesome company! I use many of there products. I recently switched from Evercoat rage gold filler to Upol gold filler and its awesome! And half the price!!!
Great video pete! Just finished an overall with this product this past weekend. Had the same results as you, I mixed it 4:1:1/2 with reducer. Layed down good, good build but yes its a little harder to block sand. For the price I was very pleased with it. P.S. this was on my everyday driver work truck it had this primer on it for 2 months outside rain or shine before I got it blocked and painted. It held up great to the elements.
I use and love the 2253. You really have to either shake it well, or open it up and stir up the bottom. It's pretty thick once done. It also sprays well as a sealer when reduced. Great stuff, great review!
Which reducer do you use?
@BriggsStratton11 I use slow 5 Star Xtreme urethane reducer. I'm in Florida so most times I'm spraying in warmer temps. Slow allows it to level a little better but I don't put expensive reducers in primer.
Another excellent video! Thank you Pete for all the time you spend on teaching us!👍🙏
I bought the exact same P2253 UPOL Primer at O'Reillys Auto Parts , Here where I live O'Reillys has a main warehouse and at the O"Reillys main warehouse they mix and sell automotive Paint supplies Data Sheet Information for Copy&Paste 1. High Build Primer Filler for spot repairs. (use at 4:1)2. Primer Surfacer for large areas. (use at 4:1:1 reducer)3. A Non Sand (wet on wet) primer sealer. (use at 4:1:2 reducer)4. Tintable with up to 10% with urethane mixing base 5. Can be applied direct to metal
I used a gallon of it a few years ago for priming to paint a truck cab inside and out. I was pretty happy with the results. You're correct that it cakes up the paper when blocking since it is so powdery when sanded.
I been watching swrnc and diy auto school since the first episodes, I stopped in his shop in texas about four years ago, got to me meet him for a second but he had to run to take care of some business. I had to leave town but I would have loved to talk to him and see his projects in person. Glad to see him doing good after surgery.
hello Pete big thank you from France you are the best teacher ,the serie chevelle ist nice thank you very much for you and minnie you are teacher wild of speeches thru your job this is the real détails i beginer and 53 old , do it the job, Merci pete et Minnie
That primer is amazing i always used it. And very reasonable price aswell. Even their clear coat id amazing
I just used it yesterday, 2 coats of the final primer. I used it on my MGB, I really liked it. It sands very easy. I am glad you did a review on this and being able to see you spray it.
I have a gallon of this primer that I haven't tried yet. Price is right and reviews were good on it. I usually use Matrix, Catamount, and I like the House of Kolor KDA 3000 surfacer/sealer hybrid epoxy primer a lot. Only problem is those three brands are getting hard to afford as things get tight for me so I am excited to try the UPOL which I will be this Wednesday
Nice review video 👍 I've been using it because it's cheap ish and I can get upol online at descent price. I like how I can just use the same catalyst for just about everything in the product line as long as I don't get hot catalysts that kicks off just sitting around I don't waste my money as much for the home jobber,$ 🦄💕 love how much you still got it done 👍 respect 💞
I can tell by the way you did review your honest because I've used the product before not that I doubted it because you're a pretty honest from what I've seen on the video,s. Nice works hopefully all is well with y'all's 💕
Just used upol for the first time. It was great filled in all imperfections. My only recommendation is to only use if you are wet sanding, dry sanding on a block it clumps up like CRAZY.
UPOL makes Raptor Liner; I’m glad you did this video Pete as I am not a seasoned enough painter to always know which products to pick.
Also I use a siphon feed too, but because I’m familiar with from the occasional priming of industrial equiptment
Thanks for recommending cost saving products while being REAL on situations. God bless you and Minnie. If you’re coming to Canada come on by for visit.
I come and watch you cause I know you'll pull no punches and give and honest review...and I always learn something...good to see you working on a MOPAR....and I know your not a fan of them but you'll always do your best!!... Cause you take pride in your work.
Upol primer is a good high build, but I would still epoxy or acid any bare metal, the upol's adhesion to bare metal isn't amazing, say you go back in to do any blocking with 80 grit, the upol will be pulled off the bare steel, also, no corrosion protection.
This upol product is the only one i use ...... takes a day to set up to sand or u can same day it with heat lamps . upol clear is trash. 1-4-10% and u can go to 1-4-40% for super fast/thin coat to s-600 if u need - about 100$ a galon --- u should use NET paper 180-320-600 --- because it is hard - u can also use to fill old pitted metal 80 grit and respray.
I use this primer, I have found that if you let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes while stiring it four or five times abd add 10% reducer it sprays and covers just fine.
I was wondering how good this stuff was. Now, thanks to my friend Pete, I know for sure. Thanks for the informative review, you've always steered me in the right direction!!
Pete, watched some of your past recent vids and saw you were using it.... Thought I'd give er a try... It's good stuff.... Mix it with a metal house paint mixer with a drill for a couple minutes and it'll mix easier when your add your hardener. The hardener thins the primer if you add a lil too much. I agree that sanding takes more work than other primers... Other than that I'll keep er around. Hopefully they don't raise the price after this vid.
Take er easy dude..
Your the man pete,ben watchin you for years brother.i wish i had all your knowledge for this mini truck project we just started on my channel
Same here , the paint supply store only stocks what the big autobody shops use so I just by my primers online.
I use it as I restore old refrigerators. Your right it is harder to sand but that’s all I’m used to. Only do a couple fridges a year.
Good video Pete , old guy sells me Upol and it's not bad at all. He sells a lot to panel shops and if it was bad they wouldn't use it. Thanks for showing us this mate.
Thank you, Pete. Was looking at this for my project. I will be going with this primer as well. I have shallow pockets so I need the best bang for the buck. Thank you for the great video. 😀
Those deep scratches you're filling with primer will look good after you paint it, but after a year or less that primer in the scratches will shrink and you will see those scratches. Not knocking your work, but I've had it happen to me. Now I work my bondo down to 320 grit, and have a lot better luck.
I love your videos! Always straight up and to the point!👍🏾💪🏾
i was hoping you could review speedokote products.
Thank you for this video, I bought a gallon last month to use for my 55 Chevy project when I’m ready to primer. Look like I got me some good stuff
I just started using there products. (coming from Evercoat I like but getting too expensive) and I'm sold , easy to work with , and the price is good , I have my blow gun hanging on my hip and i blow the block off and away from me... having a fan behind me sometimes also. Thanks for sharing.
Been using this for a while, use an electric stirrer on it before mixing because all the solids rest at the bottom of the tin.
Never had a problem with the product.
Great review Pete! Going to look into that stuff for when I get around to painting my boy's first car.
thanks for the very informative video. working on painting a truck bed. your videos are very helpful.
I love their glaze... States where we make cars still sell twice the voc paints! Europe forced low voc long b4 us so they likely have an edge, I have used their epoxy last year, so far so good, claims a 7 day re-coat window!
WTH Pete! Moving out of Dallas made your hair go grey! Just watched a video from when you were a young whipper snapper in 2012 working on a "Friend Job" Harley fender. Watched all your videos about 7 years ago when I was painting a Miata in the garage. Getting ready to paint the tins on an old Harley and knew exactly where to go to brush up. No one that I can find around McKInney wants to paint a bike so I'm stuck doing it myself.
My friend pepe! Looks amazing great job once again. i have a mini siphon-fed spray gun love it for filler primer and single stage paint.
Thanks Pete and Minnie. I don't trust myself with my finishing palm sander yet to do primer so I still use blocks. Its alot of work but I will get the job done. You can find Upol up in the great white north as well.
Alot of the paint pete uses I can't find .I love this guy made me a better painter .the price of paint these days is bs .I also agree with him on no one needs 10 paint guns where I disagree with him is the harbor freight bs guns for primer to cheap to much sanding .I always leave gun cleaner out on primer in case something goes wrong
Just put it on my Chevy II using a Binks #7, good results. Wet sands very nicely. Topcoat will be very old Dupont Centari.
Pete thanks so much for these video they really help the por boy trying to make it
Great video Pete thanks for sharing on the primer. How is mini doing hope she getting well
Hey Pete, love all your videos. Have you ever tried TAMCO paint primers or epoxies?
European Genuine Coatings is their “premier automotive brand” and my mentor turned me onto the EGC21TT DTM high build fill primer, claims to be sealer as well if reduced. I’ve had amazing results using it out of just the Harbor Freight purple gun that I modified the fluid tip for primer. 2 full wet coats is all I almost ever need with it. $130 for a gallon with hardener from JerzeyAutoPaint. Can’t wait to see the results of this stuff!
Now seeing the mix, it is NOT the same as the EGC21TT haha. Waaay thinner looking so far. EGC claims “74% solids which is the most currently on the market”.
Came out a lot better than the mix looked! Might give it a try if I can find a good deal on it.
That's the kind of high build primer I use I reduce a little it works out really good my friend Pete
I would have long blocked it with 120 until I start to break through. Then reprime to finish sand without breaking through
awesome review pete... gonna pick up a gallon for my truck when comes time
Another great review Sir
We gave a brand named chameleon from Germany a try so far everything is great this is a white DTM primer surfacer sealer combination and so far I'm happy with it
I'm glad I can get pge in Idaho. I still miss the old lacquer paint. Nobody could mees that up unless they put it over enamal paint then look out. From Idaho dan
I been using this one for a while and I love it very very happy with it
Thanks for doing this review, I was on the fence about their primers
Thanks for your work ,great advice
Hi Pete love your videos can you please tell me does the plastic on the floor in your spray booth drive you nutty with it sticking to your boots or isn’t it a problem.
Thanks Phil from Australia 🇦🇺
i like the upol 2253 as a diy guy mainly because u can mix it 3 different ways, 4:1, 4:1:1 and 4:1:2 based on high buiild, medium build surfacer and sealer which means i only need to carry one product to do 3 different purposes and then its DTM
Excellent video pete
LOL Pete look a dent I have to fix ....Mini well YOU missed it lol great video Pete
Upol good primer , put on 2 wet coats to avoid orange peel , will be less sanding to get smooth
I have a Freightliner semi that I’m restoring it has a aluminum cab with a smc fiberglass hood also aftermarket regular fiberglass rear fenders what kind of resin/primer/paint combo do you recommend will stick to the smc and the rest of truck? Because it has recently been painted has blisters all over it !This is my first go at paint and body PLEASE ADVISE
Curious if you've ever tried the SPI line of primers and clears and your opinion of their products. I've used their 2k and it sands nicely.
Strange Pete if it "Feather Fill G2 Polyester" hard after a cure. But, if it doesn't shrink, little to no orange peel, maybe good stuff. I used some primer / sealer 12 years ago on sons project car and came out great. But, everything changes as I heard U-Pol has changed. But I won't be buying PPG Vibrance VB2050, DTM Epoxy High Build because a set of "Z-Rated tires" are cheaper.
Great video and interesting. Thanks again My Friend Pete & Minnie the body shop girl!
Its not as high build as the spray on white stuff, but there is a lot less texture when I tried it. Easy to wet sand too. Good stuff.
BTW this primer is 4to1 for high build and 4to1to1 for surfacer. the surfacer doesn't spray as thick and is meant for after blocking the high build coat down .. adding 10% reducer doesn't just "thin it out" to spray it "easier"...
Gonna try it out on my restoration after I apply feather fill G2 corvette 1980 C3
That Primer is Good Stuff... U-Pol Im in Nor Cali I use it all the time...
Spraying this as a sealer today at 11am in dallas! Wish me luck on the green vette..it was way too thick after I mixed it too long.
I’ve noticed a lot of the good stuff you can’t get anymore
I’m going to be stuck using Upol or the Prime ppx-55 high build here from our local supplier R&E Paint Supply
Love ya my brother... always !!! .... and Minnie to...thanks for sharing this video... cuz I have to use this product also... thanks man!
This is my first time trying it 2 I think it works well 2. SO far so good 👍
love that u pol primer can be mixed 4:1 as high build and 4:1:2 as sealer i manly use it as sealer and hardly as high build
I bought some because it can also be used as a sealer. Although I have not used it as of yet.
I personally prefer their Rapid primer as its more flexible/faster/blah blah.. We can get sod all except Upol stuff here as well. None of the other brands seem to want to sell stuff here. I also quit going anywhere near bodywork using a D.A without first chucking an interface pad on - it changes the amount of goof-ups when sanding so much that I'd now not go near a car without using one. Just better/
No problem on the confusion part. is the solvent fume from the primer :)
Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
That primer is what I have used for about year now it's good, pete need to try the speedokote ss2790g primer it's pretty good to. The speedokote epoxy primer/sealer is awesome too,been using it for about 3 years with no problems.
Why did you DA sand the door out instead of block it? Wouldn’t it be wavy?
I always block it with guide coat then DA finish sand it to get the scratch out
I was thinking the exact same thing. That panel is going to wave at you
In my experience with this primer it’s a lot easier to wet sand it than it is dry, weather you’re 320 and sealing or 600 or whatever you’re using it seems to sand easier with water
Have used upol primer for 15 years best you can buy metal to metal use the epoxy on youre gate or fence. Thunder road auto body.
WOW, this is 2022, they ship everywhere nowadays, its a new thing check it out :)
I'm gonna try a ASTRO pro. Amazon paint gun any bad reveus thanks Pete. God strings to the heart buddy.
T P Tools has a DTM high build that works well that I use and it comes in three different colors.
I'm looking for ways to Rust Belt proof cars , still.......
I've never used that upol primer but I've used lots of k36 primer and never liked how hard it was to sand .Lately I've been using the Evercoat Super build 4:1 sands easy but it's 228$ a gallon .
Great video Pete
Good look at the Upol primer. Things have got out of hand, and a guy has to look for a deal that works
you should try there high solids clear,its priced right and in my experiance it out lasted even concept line in the southern california sun
I was just looking at the shelves full of primer and seen the matrix just yesterday and I was thinking to myself holy mosses which one ?? They have both. Upol and matrix. Plus a couple others.. I’ve got a lot to learn…. 🤦♂️
You have to drive an hour and a half west into Colorado , grand junction has paint stores bro
I couldn't afford G2 for Gamora the green vettes newest paint job so I bought this primer will spray it soon. Wml
I did learn one thing about body work stick to what works best
Thank you Pete good info😊
UPOL is from england. very good affordable products. I like their euro clear...
Pete. Can you tint a urethane sealer with a urethane base paint? I have a white sealer I want to make it pink as I am painting the car red.?
for those of you who have used this as a primer and as a sealer... what is that process for both? Do you use it as a high build primer then block it down and re spray it as a sealer and then block that as well before painting? What's the purpose of spraying as a sealer? About to attempt a big paint project and want it to look good and last!
Using it as a sealer makes it a uniform color for your base and locks everything down. Sealer has to be sprayed right before your base coat. Sealer shouldn’t let sit without top coat or you won’t get the chemical adhesion for base. Then you would have to scratch it again for a mechanical adhesion. Just an extra step you don’t need to do.