This is a great video... If anyone turned off before the end you missed the best part.. LOL.... I don't see too many videos on your page.. But I think you could get a good thing going doing more like this... Keep these coming...
I'm in bodywork 45 years and I always maintain that no matter how good you think you are , you never stop learning. Great video and informative approach. Thanks for sharing.
Being self taught and back in the day so to speak, late 70's - 90 I was at the Pebble Beach quality of work. I would have really liked to have some instruction on the craft. You did an excellent job on the instruction and explanation with the end goal in mind. Even tho I became a highly skilled craftsman in the auto body repair and restoration field I made most of the mistakes you talked about. Different times back then, no 2K primers in the 70"s at least to my knowledge but then I grew up in a small town where a guy wouldn't have heard about it. This is the first time I came across one of your vids and will return for sure. I'm 62 now and body is shot to hell, one thing I can't stress enough to the young guys is that you're not superman. Keep kneeling on that concrete without pads and see how you feel in 30 yrs. Be safety minded, I've seen a lot of shit over the years and things you think could never happen can. Deep down I would still like to paint just one more, basecoat was just coming in as I was going out. HVLP tech was just coming in also, with most shops being scared of them. I was a rep for Mattson HVLP spray guns and often worked with Roy Mattson who was a true pioneer in the development of the HVLP gun. For me at the end I was stuck in the middle of it all but my Binks no. 7 and Centari with a clear was like glass. Man, I still love the smell of that Centari , sorry so long, now for that subscribe button, thank you for your efforts. Rock On !!
I am not far behind you. Third generation in the trade and now am sensitized to the paints and isocyanates. Most aches and pains are treated with advil. Nothing worse and not being able to breathe. My reactions follow me home lasting for a couple hours. Nasal sprays and inhalers just aren’t cutting it now I need to move on. Not even a mask can prevent the exposure. I absorb the chemicals through my skin. Just life I suppose.
@@billbeckett1021 There are things to help. I have COPD. Their Holistic methods available. You tube natural ways to detox lungs, kidneys liver and subscribe to the ones you feel are helpful. Then keep going back and look for a continuity between them. I am 68.5. I now weigh the same 165-70 as I did when on swim team in high school. Blood pressure has leveled out stomach problems diminished and improving over this last year. Just with over the counter. Vitamins and personal behavioral changes i.e., everything in moderation. Not pushing anything just making good use of my You Tube during the B>S> IN the LAND.
@@billbeckett1021 sorry to hear about that Bill, I hope your condition improves. The trueth of the 2K spraying is that you need an exterior air supply...the mask cannot filter out all the isocyanates and most 3M masks on ebay are not even 3M they are counterfeit so how do we know if they are really working. I pointed it out to 3M in the UK and they agreed they were not 3M products. Wear covering from head to toe and even wear gloves. Use an Oil-less compressor for an air feed going to a good filtration system and use blue hose which is medical quality from the filter to the mask and has no silicone or rubber in it. You should also have two oil free compressors in case one fails and both feeding into the same Y junction.
$40k-$80k for body and paint is how it should be with the thousands in materials and hundreds if not thousands of man hours invested. I did restoration for 10 years before I went to general collision work because nobody wants to pay, when it’s all said and done it feels like your making $10hr. People go to a couple car shows and see some nice classic cars and remember when they were in high school and had their chevelle or something. They want another one and don’t realize that $100k is nothing for a quality classic. So they go buy some bucket out of a field that has been looked over and passed by for the last 40 years because of it condition, and think that they can get a full restoration for $20k. They don’t have a clue what stuff costs. They don’t realize that the body and paint is 40k, that custom chassis with tubular arms, coil overs, rack N pinion, boxed and gusseted, and 4 linked is 10k. That 9 inch rear is 5k, their big brakes on all 4 3k, that 600hp LS and built trans $15k, 5k for wheels and tires, 10k in interior. It all adds up and they have no idea the hours involved and what things actually cost. To top it off they think they can drop off a wrecked rusted turd and get it back in a couple of weeks fully restored and ready for their first car show.
@John Doe Exactly! But then, after polishing the turd, they STILL don't have what they had back in the day... There's just "something" about the experience of driving a car that's as close to "factory stock" as it can be. My folks had a restoration business back through the 80s and 90s... I grew up working for Dad. He's still kicking, but retired down in Daytona Beach now. He still does car maintenance and motorcycle projects for friends till this day. I guess I'm getting old, too... The prices mom n dad charged back then, are a DAMN SIGHT different than they are today! But one thing has never changed... Someone could dump X amount into a car, thinking they were gonna double or triple it when they eventually sell it.... Which we all know USUALLY never happens, even today. Cheers!
Stop watching the short videos, take the time and watch this. This has been the single best filler video i I have seen. I watched it the night before and the next day I restarted 3 days of work and finished in 3 hours. I now have new hope for my daunting projects. Don't think you can master it the first time, it takes time and practice but this will save you the strain on your elbows and wrist in the long run.
Wow, this is the best video on body filler I have ever seen. I've read countless books magazines watch videos and I still learned something almost every minute or two from this video. Do yourself a favor and watch this whole thing carefully.
I started as a painters helper when I was 15 I am 60 now and retired I did it all custom cars accident work restorations and I worked for some of the best people out there
I haven't really done bodywork in several years but you never quit learning this stuff and it is hard as hell to get a car super straight. You are showing the way to do it some of which I have never seen but it takes years of experience to get really good at it. Keep up the good work!
Hands down, this is the best RUclips video ever! I've watched all of them on this curriculum. All the information is correct, well spoken, and is spot on. This guy is a great instructor. I outta know, I've got over 45 years in the trade!:)👍👍
Hey I found this video in my frustration in waiting another few years on my "Someday I'm gonna learn..." project. I am an absolute beginner, and this video is just what I need to kickstart my process. 2nd owner 1959 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet, my Dad passed and now I'm 64 and l need to get this done. You are inspirational in your manner and I will keep coming back to your channel. Thanks and stay strong.
Probably the best demonstration video I've ever seen. You're a very good teacher. I've been doing this for a long time and you taught me some good stuff.
I have always been a bit rough with body work. I’m not a panel beater but after watching this I can see where I can improve a lot. Thanks this is a great video.
I’m a first time restorer of an MGB in the UK, and I’m 75 years old!! So I’ve been researching like hell on the latest methods. I settled on epoxy primer a while ago and filling afterwards so I got that bit right!
I've gotten pretty good at bodywork throughout the years. Now after watching this video there is no doubt I will be faster and more accurate. Thanks for the tips
Trevor: I am a retired automobile restoration technician , the majority of my carrier was in the body shop & Frame repair business until I decided to enter the restoration business. Most people would think that these businesses are the same, but time wise and work flow is quite different. Restoration of cars hang around for months sometimes a couple of years or more! Body shops are quite different so your work flow is or should be much more quicker, quicker but the focus has to be Quality! You exhibit and profess “teach” quality your patience and “thoroughness” is quite exemplary! At the end when you lost it was funny as hell! LOL 😂 when I was a body & frame man we tried to repair cars in and out within 3 days to three weeks depending on the damage and availability of parts . Back in the 80s this was the norm! Today since Covid it’s gone to hell in a hand basket! In one way I’m glad that I’m retired! On the other I really miss working on cars! Especially the restoration of everything from Muscle Cars to steam cars! I was blessed enough to work on many one off specialty automobiles! Cars that went to Pebble Beach to Amelia island even Lake Como and the Melia Melia in Europe. Most shops I worked in I became the shop manager. it was a very fulfilling and exciting career, I suppose that’s why I miss it! I do have a project at home that I tinker on. It’s a 1949 Plymouth business coupe that was turned into a street rod my plan is to pro street it! It needs lots of bodywork! So I’m catching up on the process by watching your videos, as the process has changed slightly from when I was “slinging mud”! So keep up the good work ethic! It is greatly appreciated! And as I said the ending was funny as hell! Regards Mike S. ………👍
Another video that's answers all my questions from the past 5 years in one video. I just couldn't find this level of quality info from other youtubers or on forums, even when trying to piece it together. You're providing priceless info here. I hope you continue to do so. Would love to see a series on how you spray paint for show-car finishes too i.e gun settings/technique tips. Thanks again for making me excited about my hobby again because i finally found answeRS!
Subscribe guys.. this man will turn you into a pro.. he's giving you ALL the tips and none of the bullshit.. listen to everything, some of this stuff can take you years and heartache to figure out.. can't wait for the next one
Great info. Everyone always mixes way more than they need. What a waste of money. Or they try to use what they mix and then they spend way more time to remove all the extra! But so far so good on the training. Many good points especially for beginners. Always cover can to keep the filler from drying out even faster. As a body man who use to do 8 hours per day of body work, you don’t want to let this filler still be on your car overnight. That’s a nightmare! Also temp changes change everything about the process. It takes time to master the art. So don’t get frustrated- just keep trying to do a better job the next time. And think about what you are doing so you can self correct. The key to working filler is to start working it while it’s just setting up. It’s a huge difference compared to allowing it to harden for a half hour or more. If you take lunch and come back…it’s already too late! You can work it but it’s going to be a much tougher job to do. With any skill be prepared to research, learn and watch others doing the same skill set. What works for you may be a bit different from what you see others doing. But if you follow this guys tips you are better off. Most people do not like doing bodywork because it’s labor -intensive…or so they think. but it’s really not bad if you’re doing it correctly.
Thank you so much for a fantastic tutorial. This is exactly what I need to learn. I am now In fourth year of my trade work. My filler work is so frustrating that no matter how hard I work on it I still see either ripples or imperfections. But I can honestly say that you corrected me at lot of places. I am sure when I put your tutorials into practice i am going to improve my filler work. I will keep you posted. Thanks again.
In a couple of weeks I will be starting a restomod on a 1950 Chevrolet panel delivery truck. I have enough experience to be dangerous. I have been watching a lot of RUclips videos and yours is the first to explain blocking and step by step through paint. Thanks for the info and help. Looking forward to more videos.
I've watched 100s of bodywork videos at this point, and I found this to be one of the best in terms of clear and concise information. I really enjoyed watching. Thank you for posting, you've got a new subscriber 😁
This is a very well detailed explanation. He is very good at teaching others. Some are very good at doing the work but not good at showing or teaching others. Thanks for taking time we need people to get involved in this trade. Great Job!!!
OMG that was amazing. I have never seen such meticulous body work! I am just a hack that does minimal work on non show cars at home garage, but this was very enlightening on how to achieve better surfaces. Thanks
Really enjoy the walk through! I’ve been body working for years and always love learning new ways! Thank you ,it shows your a good teacher. Have a good one
Brilliant , educational video as always, Travis - my only humble addition is don't use brake cleaner to clean your board, buy carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner instead. Carb cleaner is 10x as effective. My best "How to clean your filler mixing tools/How to clean your spray-gun" Top Tip is to use carb cleaner for the final clean-up after using thinners. Carb cleaner really really gets stuff clean - brake cleaner kinda sucks tbh. Different properties. Once I started using carb cleaner to clean my sprayguns, it became a doddle as opposed to a pita - same goes for filler. Especially true for epoxies - I used to hate cleaning the gun after spraying those as it took forever - carb cleaner gets it off in a jiffy. My whole attitude to using filler has changed since watching your vids & I do it for a living, lol. Great improvements have happened.
I’m glad you clarified this because when I say break clean, I am specifically referring to the brand “brakleen” from crc it’s a carb cleaner where the red can is a brake cleaner. I have tried a few different brands and the CRC brand in the green can seems to be the best that I have use thus far. Thank you!!
Wow! I felt like I had a pretty good understanding of the basics of bodywork, but I learn a TON from your video that will make me better and make doing it much easier!
Thank you for the incredibly detailed and common sense lesson. The way you present it makes it very easy to understand. It has inspired me to get cracking on my next project!
Wow, wow!!! This the most intuitive bodywork video I’ve seen on RUclips. Thank you 🙏🏿. Your tone and body language is perfect for my absorption. You’re a natural teacher.
Thanx for such an informative video. I worked as a auto painter back in the late 70s ( lacquer paint days) and left the industry to go into aviation. Now that I am retired, I have had the time to work on my hot rods. Your video helped me get up to speed on the modern products and how they are used. I also picked up some techniques that I had not seen before.
Can't thank you enough for your timely tips. I'm an old retired fart trying my hand at bodywork and your videos are just what I needed. With each video I can see where I was doing it wrong. I don't mind doing things 3 or 4 times if I'm learning and not repeating mistakes. Chuck @ Temecula Valley Paint is a gem. Thx again. KW
I'm no expert but will be prepping and spraying my car this summer, so right now I'm watching loads of RUclips videos so I can learn as much as I can before I start. This one popped up as a recommendation, and of all the videos I've seen so far (and there have been lots!), this is by far the best explanation of the way to avoid the filler edge expanding further and further by making over-corrections, and to how avoid the over-filing/over-sanding cycle. Great work, I've subscribed and will be checking out the rest of your videos.
Thank you very much for subscribing we will be putting out some more videos here very soon on the next steps as well as some of the metal work stages and a lot more how to use to help the guys like yourself glad you enjoyed it
Great video and thank you for taking your time to explain stuff I learned the hard way with using sharpie markers I did a candy blue paint job and once it was out in the sun for awhile I could see black circles in the candy blue paint it was a bad bad day lol I only use pencil from now own
I've been a spray painter and panel beater for 50 years, and I've owned and ran 4 bodywork shops. I'd love to show you some of my tips that would save you so much time and effort. Tips that took me a lot of years to master. I've seen tradesman panel beaters with decades of experience spend days on 1 door. However, I can repair a door with dents all over it, with just minutes of actual work time. Roofs, Bonnets (hoods), Boots (trunks) Guards (fenders), it's all the same, saves so much time.
A good video , Thank you for all the pointers . I love doing body and paint work . I feel it is the most satisfying form of art that I have found . I really like the pencil mark tip . I can see how this would be a big help in letting you know that you've gone far enough .
I been keeping a look out for tips and tricks the last 3 years as I've been trying to learn body work as a hobby and this is the best video I've seen so far (weighing body filler & hardner, pencil outline, etc.) I don't know of anybody sharing these type of real world applications. A++
YOUR VIDEO ROCKS,only suggestion for speed is to use slick sand primers,it cuts the jobs down 45% on leveling,on really rough cars i use the 4 to 1,the primer filler actually grows,i no longer have to sand to 220 or 320 for adhesion,i sand to 100 and pour it on,it stinks,but it works,left it untouched for 2 years while i worked my bros duster,come back to my project and it didn't crack,shrink or fade out,it works,its the speed i've been waiting for,45 years in the trade
As others have said, great video and you are spot on! I'm not a pro as you are, just an extreme hobbiest I suppose and I picked up a lot of good hints. Never been a fan of the cheese grater, you showed me how it should be done! And agree with you on the powder guide coat, great stuff, doesn't clog your paper. Thanks for your time, great job.
Flat areas have always been difficult for me, I always think they a flush and fine only to find they are low by a few thousandths, enough to really jump out after being painted. Enjoyed and hopefully learned from the video. However I am only a DIY guy that likes to work in my own cars.
Coming from an older beginner , i cant say enuf good about your work! Excellent explanation in detail , its obvious your experience comes from pride in your work . A thousand thank yous !!!
You my friend have the best body work video on RUclips hands down! You’re a true pro! Dude wow... you’re on Point! Ty for taking the time and sharing to teach us. Hats off to you! Big THANK YOU! The word needs more ppl like you! Great delivery! Great EVERYTHING THANK YOU!!
I've been struggling to get a quarter panel on a '66 Mustang smoothed out. I watched your video and felt dumb as a stick!!! I was sanding areas that were already smooth to correct areas that weren't. I used the pencil method, applied a healthy layer of guide coat and BOOM! Thank you very much for a great tutorial.
Hey Trevor, just a big shout out to you for the first class video. Appreciate you taking the time to show us your amazing skills and show us how it's done right! Keep them coming Bro!
That guide coat: its great for teaching new people how to feel staright and get things straight. Dried clumpy filler: you are absolutely right. But if you are cheap or dont have fresh filler avalible you can take a compatable fiberglass resin and thin the filler out some to get a better consistency. Im not recommending it, but I've done it with good results. Pencil line visibility: a great pencil to use is a carpenters pencil the draw very dark and our tests showed it to not be any issues. Disposing of unused filler: putting uncured filler in the garbage can cause a fire risk when it exotherms...ask me how i know...
Damn. I'm a complete beginner and out of about 100 bodywork videos, this one is by far the most informative one! I appreciate y your information and guidance
Wow. I cannot stress the detail you are providing. I have done body work on a lot of cars, but you are sending me to next detail level and teaching me some techniques that I have not seen. This will help me on the 68 Corvette I am restoring. Great vids, keep em coming.
Just came across your channel and have to say I’m so glad I did, I’m working on an old Holden ute here in Australia and your videos will definitely help me along the way, by far the most informative and easy to follow and understand video I’ve watched so far, well done mate can’t wait to see more, definitely subscribed and 👍👍
Many thanks.. I always skip during the presenter talking but not here. The explanation very detailed throughout vast experiences. And it is free thanks. Done subscribed.
I appreciate the detail in your work. I am an armature at body work but people keep telling me I am being to meticulous with my body work. Everyone says "You can knock that out with high build and blocking. I try to start with straight, smooth and scratch free filler and panels before I shoot high build. I think the better base you start with the better finished product. this is excellent and makes me feel better about what I am doing. the block sanding video is also excellent. the details about little touch, and when to stop sanding is things I always question myself about. Thanks for sharing.
You are on the right track. Don’t listen to them they won’t excel with that mentality. We dropped a new video today and next week that is an updated version of this video 👍🏻
Great video I’m currently working on a 1967 gto its my first attempt at bodywork so far its going good I’ve made a few mistakes along the way but have been able to correct them i did take the body down to bare metal and then sprayed epoxy primer then I did the filler work over it. And blocked with 40 grit and 80 grit with the linear blocks there awesome!! the thing i wish now I didn’t do was the poly primer its s lot work to sand and I’m not sure i like the product. i’m going to block it down with 80 grit with the linear blocks and spray the whole car with tamco 5310 DTM do you think this would be a better substrate to work from then using the evercoat poly and a urethane primer ( the Eastwood) method well anyway thanks for your time take care
I personally don’t have any experience with tamco so I’m not sure. We use all ppg products. I’m personally not a fan of polyester we use vp2050 it’s a one size fits all epoxy/high build primer.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks for the reply in your opinion theres no real harm leaving the poly primer that I already sprayed and go ahead and prep it for a DTM primer like you mentioned and continue blocking the body till ready to seal and paint. Thank you for your time
I appreciate this video very much. I am starting a 1970 Tempest and will be doing the bodywork and paint myself. I am not a stranger to this, but it's been awhile. Most of my involvement was with motorcycles. Thank you very much! I'll be watching more videos, for sure!
Your taking chances with pencil lead as well. Using it in body work, it's a graphite lubricant powder that's being scratched off the pencil lead on to the surface your drawing on. It has no chemical fusion bond with paint, and lack of adhesion if you don't sand it all the way off. Your creating issues with top coats not adhering to the physical pencil line, as well it's creating a barrier to what's below the line...
@@gary24752 your working on it with your eyeballs, your identifying it with your eyeballs, then why not fill it with your eye balls, why does it have to be identified with any physical mark, your working it start to finish anyway why bring contamination into the mix period. Anything other than paint and fillers, should not hit the surface period by rights. Graphite, markers, dust, grease pencils, hand oils their all contaminates even paints are contaminantes if you spray on top to heavy, and then you have separtion and bleed to a certain point. Flashing is where all this is controlled and skills of an individual laying paint ! They chemically bond through fusion that's the reason for using two part compounds to control bleed through from curing processes that require a mechanical bound vs chemical solvent fusion bonds. Your good I just had a problem with graphite being used. I'm sure you guys turn out great results. Graphite is real detrimental to extreme hot areas of jet engines it causes cracks to develope right along a line that's drawn everytime. It embeds into pores in metal through heat expansion and cold contraction cycles until the metal separates creating cracks. But unrelated to what your doing but it does concentrate heat.
I used to use an old body file while the filler was still soft. I found it gave a much better finish than a cheese grater file. I did a lot of file finish when I was an apprentice back in the early 70`s as I did my time for a Jag dealership, and you needed a good reason to use filler. (bog, nickie) as it was locked up in the cupboard.
I love the detailedness of the action. When sailing catamarans, it took me ages to understand that it is all about minute changes in how you do something. When you do it right, then all is no problem, all is easy, when you do it wrong, you are bound for disaster and capsize. E.g. how you sit, so that you can move instantly, that you always have the mainsheet in your hand to be always able to react. Same here, with the right tools, adjusted correctly, the right movements, good checkpoints that all works out. Importtant is for all of us to watch out what we are doing, when it works out better and when not, and find out why. My experience is that as soon as I understood what was going on, what I did, then surprisingly my body very quickly does it almost on its own.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks for reading my babble. To come back to cars, my after-midlive-crisis toy is an Opel(Vauxhall) Calibra, V6 24V, 170 hp, red, 30 years old, 85,000 miles. Not yet needing your body filler methods - it got a body built in Finland, that rust way less than the german builds. And as a summer sunny weather car he will hopefully last quite a while longer. It was the lowest drag car of its time and still is - 24 mpg for 170 hp and 147 mph top speed is not that bad. Maybe have a look in the internet, GM (Opel is the german branch of GM) never bothered to import/build it in the US. I think it is one of the cleanest cars with the most consequential lines ever built. You can call it boring - for me it is elegant. In the US, it would be one of the rarest cars ever...
Love it!!! That’s the goal learn something then go try it realize there’s more to it go through the struggle and rewatch it …… over and over till you perfect it
I am a car sprayer and I can tell this is the most informative video about filler on RUclips. I came here because kindy forgot the filler game I was spraying on the construction site scratches or domestic uPVC with don't need to know how to do big panel filler with is a completely different skill putting a small amount of filler mostly 1k filler big ass panel require true skill with takes time. WHAT BRAND AND SIZE YOU HAVE SPREADERS I NEVER SEEN BIG LIKE THIS BUT I LIKE THEY GOT NOT SHARP EGDE?
Amazing video!!!! Your an amazing and patient teacher. Not like all those other videos that skips steps just to make a video and get likes. I learned more in this hour then i did for a year on the job lol. Wish I had an amazing teacher like you to learn from on the floor. Great job. Looking forward to seeing ALL your vids!!!!!
You are the best! No kidding. Not only do you take everything into consideration, but you have a talent of explanation. Maybe we have been over this before, but I’m old and forget things. I’m restoring my 1968 Southbend heavy 10L lathe. Cast iron with lots of pits and sheet metal in the stand. I’m thinking of sanding to bare metal, then two part epoxy primer (Eastwood aerosol). Let cure and scuff with 80 grit. Then use body fill and sand. Afterwards, maybe another layer of epoxy primer. Scuff and then use a 2k high fill primer (Eastwood aerosol). Then a top coat. But I don’t know what to use. Acrylic enamel? Maybe go to Sherwin Williams and get a quart made with the color I want. Then followed by a 2k clear top coat. Can you do me a favor and tell me what steps you would use and what products? I would appreciate it. Thanks, Paul
Wow! This is, by far, the best video that I have ever seen on filler and the process of leveling. Very easy to follow along and understand. I learned a bunch here today. Great teaching skills. Thank you for sharing your time, talent and knowledge. I am now sub'd and following. 😎👍
Also if u mix too much harder be careful for plastic clean up,not to put in trash with paper, can start a fire when gone home etc, fiberglass is bad too, love your detail explanation
Awesome video thanks for sharing this with us I done body work for my self and learned that you sand it before it turns to concrete but didn't know to sand the guide coat out of the low spots before adding filler now I know to do so I used the pencil teckneek and I also need to get one of those long boards for sanding thanks again for an awesome video
Excellent presentation and very informative. We especially like a monument of good teaching which demonstrates details in a repetition without hesitation that only know-how makes possible and which thanks to the naturalness thus acquired by Sylvester allows us to acquire the best possible understanding of this technique. Excellent attitude Sylvester you are the best. Cheers from Genenva Switzerland
A TRUE Master.. Beautifully detailed in explanation and valued outcome.. Your presentation covered the most important.."the WHY". Hugely appreciated.. Thank you
First time doing body work and now i know why i was chasing my tail on 2 similar sized spots. Wasted about a gallon of bondo then i picked up some acrylic blocks and worked it all down flatter and thinner to where it all shoulve been all along. Then i guied coated the whole bed and found all the inconsistancies my disk sander left.
Your learn how to block lessons are in depth I was always trying to look for someone in you tube in depth blocking you explain well thank you my friend stay safe
I am a plasterer and I can relate to keeping your material clean and keep any foreign or material from a former batch out of the material you are working with and also to throw out and clean up tools before the material is starting to set up,I have a 73 charger that has a lot of body work and I am going to try and tackle it my self. I hope I don't have to use much body filler but I realize that it will need a skim coat on the whole car because I have to remove all the paint
Great video, it's been almost 30 years since paint and body school & it's been about 10 years since my last car I restored. I'm getting ready pretty soon to do a drag car I'm building and I'm glad I found your videos, I needed the reminders on a lot of this stuff. Thank you. The car is a 70 dart by the way, a lot of straight lines and it's a tough car to get right.
This is a great video... If anyone turned off before the end you missed the best part.. LOL.... I don't see too many videos on your page.. But I think you could get a good thing going doing more like this... Keep these coming...
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I'm in bodywork 45 years and I always maintain that no matter how good you think you are , you never stop learning.
Great video and informative approach.
Thanks for sharing.
Couldn’t agree more. Thank you🙌🏻
Absolutely!
You are so right, been in it for 35 years. It changes yearly.
Being self taught and back in the day so to speak, late 70's - 90 I was at the Pebble Beach quality of work. I would have really liked to have some instruction on the craft. You did an excellent job on the instruction and explanation with the end goal in mind. Even tho I became a highly skilled craftsman in the auto body repair and restoration field I made most of the mistakes you talked about. Different times back then, no 2K primers in the 70"s at least to my knowledge but then I grew up in a small town where a guy wouldn't have heard about it. This is the first time I came across one of your vids and will return for sure. I'm 62 now and body is shot to hell, one thing I can't stress enough to the young guys is that you're not superman. Keep kneeling on that concrete without pads and see how you feel in 30 yrs. Be safety minded, I've seen a lot of shit over the years and things you think could never happen can. Deep down I would still like to paint just one more, basecoat was just coming in as I was going out. HVLP tech was just coming in also, with most shops being scared of them. I was a rep for Mattson HVLP spray guns and often worked with Roy Mattson who was a true pioneer in the development of the HVLP gun. For me at the end I was stuck in the middle of it all but my Binks no. 7 and Centari with a clear was like glass. Man, I still love the smell of that Centari , sorry so long, now for that subscribe button, thank you for your efforts. Rock On !!
Thank you very much. Sounds like some awesome stories.
I am not far behind you. Third generation in the trade and now am sensitized to the paints and isocyanates. Most aches and pains are treated with advil. Nothing worse and not being able to breathe. My reactions follow me home lasting for a couple hours. Nasal sprays and inhalers just aren’t cutting it now I need to move on. Not even a mask can prevent the exposure. I absorb the chemicals through my skin. Just life I suppose.
@@billbeckett1021 There are things to help. I have COPD. Their Holistic methods available. You tube natural ways to detox lungs, kidneys liver and subscribe to the ones you feel are helpful. Then keep going back and look for a continuity between them. I am 68.5. I now weigh the same 165-70 as I did when on swim team in high school. Blood pressure has leveled out stomach problems diminished and improving over this last year. Just with over the counter. Vitamins and personal behavioral changes i.e., everything in moderation. Not pushing anything just making good use of my You Tube during the B>S> IN the LAND.
@@billbeckett1021 sorry to hear about that Bill, I hope your condition improves. The trueth of the 2K spraying is that you need an exterior air supply...the mask cannot filter out all the isocyanates and most 3M masks on ebay are not even 3M they are counterfeit so how do we know if they are really working. I pointed it out to 3M in the UK and they agreed they were not 3M products. Wear covering from head to toe and even wear gloves. Use an Oil-less compressor for an air feed going to a good filtration system and use blue hose which is medical quality from the filter to the mask and has no silicone or rubber in it. You should also have two oil free compressors in case one fails and both feeding into the same Y junction.
Please listen to this man. Isocynates must be respected. Supplied air is the ONLY way anyone should spray iso. Just a respirator mask is NOT enough!
This guy makes things really easy to understand. A natural teacher.
Thank you very much
$40k-$80k for body and paint is how it should be with the thousands in materials and hundreds if not thousands of man hours invested. I did restoration for 10 years before I went to general collision work because nobody wants to pay, when it’s all said and done it feels like your making $10hr. People go to a couple car shows and see some nice classic cars and remember when they were in high school and had their chevelle or something. They want another one and don’t realize that $100k is nothing for a quality classic. So they go buy some bucket out of a field that has been looked over and passed by for the last 40 years because of it condition, and think that they can get a full restoration for $20k. They don’t have a clue what stuff costs. They don’t realize that the body and paint is 40k, that custom chassis with tubular arms, coil overs, rack N pinion, boxed and gusseted, and 4 linked is 10k. That 9 inch rear is 5k, their big brakes on all 4 3k, that 600hp LS and built trans $15k, 5k for wheels and tires, 10k in interior. It all adds up and they have no idea the hours involved and what things actually cost. To top it off they think they can drop off a wrecked rusted turd and get it back in a couple of weeks fully restored and ready for their first car show.
@John Doe
Exactly!
But then, after polishing the turd, they STILL don't have what they had back in the day...
There's just "something" about the experience of driving a car that's as close to "factory stock" as it can be.
My folks had a restoration business back through the 80s and 90s... I grew up working for Dad.
He's still kicking, but retired down in Daytona Beach now. He still does car maintenance and motorcycle projects for friends till this day.
I guess I'm getting old, too... The prices mom n dad charged back then, are a DAMN SIGHT different than they are today!
But one thing has never changed... Someone could dump X amount into a car, thinking they were gonna double or triple it when they eventually sell it.... Which we all know USUALLY never happens, even today.
Cheers!
Hate to say it but they also think Biden didn't steal the election. People aren't to smart.
With all that you included I wouldn’t touch that for less than 150,000
You forgot the Taxes 😞
@@johnfairchild3421 150k is right on. The shops that are actually making money and doing good are charging these numbers.
I've been doing body work for 40 years this man knows what he's talking about
Thank you!!
Stop watching the short videos, take the time and watch this. This has been the single best filler video i I have seen. I watched it the night before and the next day I restarted 3 days of work and finished in 3 hours. I now have new hope for my daunting projects. Don't think you can master it the first time, it takes time and practice but this will save you the strain on your elbows and wrist in the long run.
So glad to hear!!
I highly recommend watching Sylvester customs videos he explains everything in detail and dosent half step or take shortcuts
Thank you so much mike
You took the words right out of my mouth
Wow, this is the best video on body filler I have ever seen. I've read countless books magazines watch videos and I still learned something almost every minute or two from this video. Do yourself a favor and watch this whole thing carefully.
Glad it was helpful!
Well I've been doing this off and on for 40 plus years and this is the best explanation I've ever seen.
Great to share your knowledge with us.😊
Thank you for watching and the great comment. Hope you stay with us for future content.
thank you !!! you made my day sir !!!
I learned more from this video than I have in 6 months of working in a body shop
Very glad to hear!! Thanks for watching!
I started as a painters helper when I was 15 I am 60 now and retired I did it all custom cars accident work restorations and I worked for some of the best people out there
I haven't really done bodywork in several years but you never quit learning this stuff and it is hard as hell to get a car super straight. You are showing the way to do it some of which I have never seen but it takes years of experience to get really good at it. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!!
Very refreshing to finally find an autobody-related video on YT that isn't full of hack "tips". Good stuff.
Thank you
The most comprehensive bodywork tutorial I've seen. Thank you!
Thank you Chris, appreciate it.
Excellent video. I started body work in 1985. Became a production painter 8 cars a day
Right on
Hands down, this is the best RUclips video ever! I've watched all of them on this curriculum. All the information is correct, well spoken, and is spot on. This guy is a great instructor. I outta know, I've got over 45 years in the trade!:)👍👍
Amazing compliment from someone with 45 years in. Thank you for checking us out. Hope you come back and watch some of our new videos.
Hey I found this video in my frustration in waiting another few years on my "Someday I'm gonna learn..." project. I am an absolute beginner, and this video is just what I need to kickstart my process. 2nd owner 1959 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet, my Dad passed and now I'm 64 and l need to get this done. You are inspirational in your manner and I will keep coming back to your channel. Thanks and stay strong.
Thank you very much for the kind words we will be teaching so much more soon. Thank you for watching 🙌🏻
Probably the best demonstration video I've ever seen. You're a very good teacher. I've been doing this for a long time and you taught me some good stuff.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks mate great informative session loved it 💪🏾💪🏾
Thank you so much !!!!
I have always been a bit rough with body work. I’m not a panel beater but after watching this I can see where I can improve a lot. Thanks this is a great video.
You’re welcome, more videos on there way.
I’m a first time restorer of an MGB in the UK, and I’m 75 years old!! So I’ve been researching like hell on the latest methods. I settled on epoxy primer a while ago and filling afterwards so I got that bit right!
Awesome!!
I've gotten pretty good at bodywork throughout the years. Now after watching this video there is no doubt I will be faster and more accurate. Thanks for the tips
You got it, thanks for watching!!
Trevor: I am a retired automobile restoration technician , the majority of my carrier was in the body shop & Frame repair business until I decided to enter the restoration business. Most people would think that these businesses are the same, but time wise and work flow is quite different. Restoration of cars hang around for months sometimes a couple of years or more! Body shops are quite different so your work flow is or should be much more quicker, quicker but the focus has to be Quality! You exhibit and profess “teach” quality your patience and “thoroughness” is quite exemplary! At the end when you lost it was funny as hell! LOL 😂 when I was a body & frame man we tried to repair cars in and out within 3 days to three weeks depending on the damage and availability of parts . Back in the 80s this was the norm! Today since Covid it’s gone to hell in a hand basket! In one way I’m glad that I’m retired! On the other I really miss working on cars! Especially the restoration of everything from Muscle Cars to steam cars! I was blessed enough to work on many one off specialty automobiles! Cars that went to Pebble Beach to Amelia island even Lake Como and the Melia Melia in Europe. Most shops I worked in I became the shop manager. it was a very fulfilling and exciting career, I suppose that’s why I miss it! I do have a project at home that I tinker on. It’s a 1949 Plymouth business coupe that was turned into a street rod my plan is to pro street it! It needs lots of bodywork! So I’m catching up on the process by watching your videos, as the process has changed slightly from when I was “slinging mud”!
So keep up the good work ethic! It is greatly appreciated! And as I said the ending was funny as hell! Regards Mike S. ………👍
Thank you very much. I’m glad you enjoyed it. Good luck on your project.
Another video that's answers all my questions from the past 5 years in one video. I just couldn't find this level of quality info from other youtubers or on forums, even when trying to piece it together. You're providing priceless info here. I hope you continue to do so. Would love to see a series on how you spray paint for show-car finishes too i.e gun settings/technique tips. Thanks again for making me excited about my hobby again because i finally found answeRS!
Thank you!! We will be continuing these in depth tutorials on every step as each project progresses.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS really glad to hear that! By the way, do you know of any alternatives to VP2050? I can’t get it here in the U.K. it seems.
Agreed 🏴
Subscribe guys.. this man will turn you into a pro.. he's giving you ALL the tips and none of the bullshit.. listen to everything, some of this stuff can take you years and heartache to figure out.. can't wait for the next one
Great info. Everyone always mixes way more than they need. What a waste of money. Or they try to use what they mix and then they spend way more time to remove all the extra! But so far so good on the training. Many good points especially for beginners. Always cover can to keep the filler from drying out even faster. As a body man who use to do 8 hours per day of body work, you don’t want to let this filler still be on your car overnight. That’s a nightmare! Also temp changes change everything about the process.
It takes time to master the art. So don’t get frustrated- just keep trying to do a better job the next time. And think about what you are doing so you can self correct. The key to working filler is to start working it while it’s just setting up. It’s a huge difference compared to allowing it to harden for a half hour or more. If you take lunch and come back…it’s already too late! You can work it but it’s going to be a much tougher job to do. With any skill be prepared to research, learn and watch others doing the same skill set. What works for you may be a bit different from what you see others doing. But if you follow this guys tips you are better off. Most people do not like doing bodywork because it’s labor -intensive…or so they think. but it’s really not bad if you’re doing it correctly.
I’ve done collision repair for 25yrs. This fella is EXACLY right!
Thank you so much for a fantastic tutorial. This is exactly what I need to learn. I am now In fourth year of my trade work. My filler work is so frustrating that no matter how hard I work on it I still see either ripples or imperfections. But I can honestly say that you corrected me at lot of places. I am sure when I put your tutorials into practice i am going to improve my filler work. I will keep you posted. Thanks again.
Very glad you enjoyed them 👍🏻
A light touch and good guide coat with epoxy primer i can build it up to where I can massage a panel straight quite qwickly
In a couple of weeks I will be starting a restomod on a 1950 Chevrolet panel delivery truck. I have enough experience to be dangerous. I have been watching a lot of RUclips videos and yours is the first to explain blocking and step by step through paint. Thanks for the info and help. Looking forward to more videos.
Thank you very much. Glad they are helping you. We will have one drop every Friday 👍🏻
very good. I have been doing bodywork for almost 50 years. you did an awesome job explaining it
Thank you very much appreciate it
I've watched 100s of bodywork videos at this point, and I found this to be one of the best in terms of clear and concise information. I really enjoyed watching. Thank you for posting, you've got a new subscriber 😁
Wow, thank you!
This is a very well detailed explanation. He is very good at teaching others. Some are very good at doing the work but not good at showing or teaching others. Thanks for taking time we need people to get involved in this trade. Great Job!!!
Thank you so much
OMG that was amazing. I have never seen such meticulous body work! I am just a hack that does minimal work on non show cars at home garage, but this was very enlightening on how to achieve better surfaces. Thanks
Glad you liked it! Thank you
Really enjoy the walk through! I’ve been body working for years and always love learning new ways! Thank you ,it shows your a good teacher. Have a good one
Thank you!!
Brilliant , educational video as always, Travis - my only humble addition is don't use brake cleaner to clean your board, buy carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner instead. Carb cleaner is 10x as effective. My best "How to clean your filler mixing tools/How to clean your spray-gun" Top Tip is to use carb cleaner for the final clean-up after using thinners. Carb cleaner really really gets stuff clean - brake cleaner kinda sucks tbh. Different properties.
Once I started using carb cleaner to clean my sprayguns, it became a doddle as opposed to a pita - same goes for filler. Especially true for epoxies - I used to hate cleaning the gun after spraying those as it took forever - carb cleaner gets it off in a jiffy.
My whole attitude to using filler has changed since watching your vids & I do it for a living, lol. Great improvements have happened.
I’m glad you clarified this because when I say break clean, I am specifically referring to the brand “brakleen” from crc it’s a carb cleaner where the red can is a brake cleaner. I have tried a few different brands and the CRC brand in the green can seems to be the best that I have use thus far. Thank you!!
Wow! I felt like I had a pretty good understanding of the basics of bodywork, but I learn a TON from your video that will make me better and make doing it much easier!
Very glad to hear 🙌🏻
I just had to watch it over and over again, because this was so well narrated and well presented
Thank you!!
Thank you for the incredibly detailed and common sense lesson. The way you present it makes it very easy to understand. It has inspired me to get cracking on my next project!
That’s awesome, stay tuned more videos coming to help you on that project.
Been doing this for over 40 years now and I can tell you that he’s doing it the right and best way... Many thanks...👍
Thank you very much!
Wow, wow!!! This the most intuitive bodywork video I’ve seen on RUclips. Thank you 🙏🏿. Your tone and body language is perfect for my absorption. You’re a natural teacher.
Thank you for the compliment. Hope you come back and watch more as we release them.
Thanx for such an informative video. I worked as a auto painter back in the late 70s ( lacquer paint days) and left the industry to go into aviation. Now that I am retired, I have had the time to work on my hot rods. Your video helped me get up to speed on the modern products and how they are used. I also picked up some techniques that I had not seen before.
Right on! That’s awesome
Easily one of the best body work videos out there. Disciplined and super clean work. Outstanding. Gary
Thank you Gary.
The absolute best video that I have ever seen pertaining to this particular subject! Thank you, Sir!
Thank you very much!
Can't thank you enough for your timely tips. I'm an old retired fart trying my hand at bodywork and your videos are just what I needed. With each video I can see where I was doing it wrong. I don't mind doing things 3 or 4 times if I'm learning and not repeating mistakes. Chuck @ Temecula Valley Paint is a gem. Thx again. KW
That’s awesome glad they help you. Chuck is the best!!
I'm no expert but will be prepping and spraying my car this summer, so right now I'm watching loads of RUclips videos so I can learn as much as I can before I start. This one popped up as a recommendation, and of all the videos I've seen so far (and there have been lots!), this is by far the best explanation of the way to avoid the filler edge expanding further and further by making over-corrections, and to how avoid the over-filing/over-sanding cycle. Great work, I've subscribed and will be checking out the rest of your videos.
Thank you very much for subscribing we will be putting out some more videos here very soon on the next steps as well as some of the metal work stages and a lot more how to use to help the guys like yourself glad you enjoyed it
Great video and thank you for taking your time to explain stuff I learned the hard way with using sharpie markers I did a candy blue paint job and once it was out in the sun for awhile I could see black circles in the candy blue paint it was a bad bad day lol I only use pencil from now own
Good thing you weren’t drawing graphic pictures with sharpie 🤣
I've been a spray painter and panel beater for 50 years, and I've owned and ran 4 bodywork shops. I'd love to show you some of my tips that would save you so much time and effort. Tips that took me a lot of years to master. I've seen tradesman panel beaters with decades of experience spend days on 1 door. However, I can repair a door with dents all over it, with just minutes of actual work time. Roofs, Bonnets (hoods), Boots (trunks) Guards (fenders), it's all the same, saves so much time.
Come on down! I’m down for anyone to show me faster ways
A good video , Thank you for all the pointers . I love doing body and paint work . I feel it is the most satisfying form of art that I have found . I really like the pencil mark tip . I can see how this would be a big help in letting you know that you've gone far enough .
You will be surprised how much work that pencil will save you. Come back and let us know how it works for you.
I been keeping a look out for tips and tricks the last 3 years as I've been trying to learn body work as a hobby and this is the best video I've seen so far (weighing body filler & hardner, pencil outline, etc.) I don't know of anybody sharing these type of real world applications. A++
Thank you very much. Next video will be up hopefully this week thx for watching
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Subsribed...I'm ready. :-)
hands down 1 of the better videos I've seen, lots of knowledge and straight to the point👍👍👍
Thank you very much!!!
YOUR VIDEO ROCKS,only suggestion for speed is to use slick sand primers,it cuts the jobs down 45% on leveling,on really rough cars i use the 4 to 1,the primer filler actually grows,i no longer have to sand to 220 or 320 for adhesion,i sand to 100 and pour it on,it stinks,but it works,left it untouched for 2 years while i worked my bros duster,come back to my project and it didn't crack,shrink or fade out,it works,its the speed i've been waiting for,45 years in the trade
As others have said, great video and you are spot on! I'm not a pro as you are, just an extreme hobbiest I suppose and I picked up a lot of good hints. Never been a fan of the cheese grater, you showed me how it should be done! And agree with you on the powder guide coat, great stuff, doesn't clog your paper. Thanks for your time, great job.
Totally followed your method on my project, Worked out great! I have been able to feel the low spots now...
Awesome!!!!
Flat areas have always been difficult for me, I always think they a flush and fine only to find they are low by a few thousandths, enough to really jump out after being painted. Enjoyed and hopefully learned from the video. However I am only a DIY guy that likes to work in my own cars.
We get the message, but have you actually measured the "few" thousandths to know it was a just few. And how many are a few?
Coming from an older beginner , i cant say enuf good about your work! Excellent explanation in detail , its obvious your experience comes from pride in your work . A thousand thank yous !!!
Thank you so much !
That was the best hour I have ever spent watching a video! You are an incredible teacher and I thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!!
With over 45 years in the trade I would highly recommend this,very detailed
Thank you
Wow finally an awesome how to channel on body work! Love how you explain each step. Very interested in more
Thank you very much. There will be way more tutorials coming soon 👊🏻👍🏻
Not a fan of bad Chad method ???ha,ha,ha
@@futureliner 🤣🤣🤣 no he seems like a hack lol
You my friend have the best body work video on RUclips hands down! You’re a true pro! Dude wow... you’re on Point! Ty for taking the time and sharing to teach us. Hats off to you! Big THANK YOU! The word needs more ppl like you! Great delivery! Great EVERYTHING THANK YOU!!
Thank you very much for the kind words! 🙌🏻
Great video. As a 30 year auto collision tech I learned a lot. Give wax and grease remover a try to clean your spreaders.
I’ll do that thank you!
Every minute of this video was so helpful! I didn't think I needed a 50 minute how to haha. I wish I had seen this before starting on my project
Right on glad you enjoyed it
I've been struggling to get a quarter panel on a '66 Mustang smoothed out. I watched your video and felt dumb as a stick!!! I was sanding areas that were already smooth to correct areas that weren't. I used the pencil method, applied a healthy layer of guide coat and BOOM! Thank you very much for a great tutorial.
So awesome!! Glad it helped ya 👍🏻
Hey Trevor, just a big shout out to you for the first class video. Appreciate you taking the time to show us your amazing skills and show us how it's done right! Keep them coming Bro!
Thank you! It’s travis 👍🏻
That guide coat: its great for teaching new people how to feel staright and get things straight.
Dried clumpy filler: you are absolutely right. But if you are cheap or dont have fresh filler avalible you can take a compatable fiberglass resin and thin the filler out some to get a better consistency. Im not recommending it, but I've done it with good results.
Pencil line visibility: a great pencil to use is a carpenters pencil the draw very dark and our tests showed it to not be any issues.
Disposing of unused filler: putting uncured filler in the garbage can cause a fire risk when it exotherms...ask me how i know...
Damn. I'm a complete beginner and out of about 100 bodywork videos, this one is by far the most informative one! I appreciate y your information and guidance
Thank you very much
Wow. I cannot stress the detail you are providing. I have done body work on a lot of cars, but you are sending me to next detail level and teaching me some techniques that I have not seen. This will help me on the 68 Corvette I am restoring. Great vids, keep em coming.
Thank you!! Glad they are helping ya out👍🏻
this video exemplifies how a craft is turned into an ART -
Just came across your channel and have to say I’m so glad I did, I’m working on an old Holden ute here in Australia and your videos will definitely help me along the way, by far the most informative and easy to follow and understand video I’ve watched so far, well done mate can’t wait to see more, definitely subscribed and 👍👍
Thank you very much. More to come soon.
Many thanks.. I always skip during the presenter talking but not here. The explanation very detailed throughout vast experiences. And it is free thanks. Done subscribed.
Much appreciated!
I appreciate the detail in your work. I am an armature at body work but people keep telling me I am being to meticulous with my body work. Everyone says "You can knock that out with high build and blocking. I try to start with straight, smooth and scratch free filler and panels before I shoot high build. I think the better base you start with the better finished product. this is excellent and makes me feel better about what I am doing. the block sanding video is also excellent. the details about little touch, and when to stop sanding is things I always question myself about. Thanks for sharing.
You are on the right track. Don’t listen to them they won’t excel with that mentality. We dropped a new video today and next week that is an updated version of this video 👍🏻
Great video I’m currently working on a 1967 gto its my first attempt at bodywork so far its going good I’ve made a few mistakes along the way but have been able to correct them i did take the body down to bare metal and then sprayed epoxy primer then I did the filler work over it. And blocked with 40 grit and 80 grit with the linear blocks there awesome!! the thing i wish now I didn’t do was the poly primer its s lot work to sand and I’m not sure i like the product. i’m going to block it down with 80 grit with the linear blocks and spray the whole car with tamco 5310 DTM do you think this would be a better substrate to work from then using the evercoat poly and a urethane primer ( the Eastwood) method well anyway thanks for your time take care
I personally don’t have any experience with tamco so I’m not sure. We use all ppg products. I’m personally not a fan of polyester we use vp2050 it’s a one size fits all epoxy/high build primer.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks for the reply in your opinion theres no real harm leaving the poly primer that I already sprayed and go ahead and prep it for a DTM primer like you mentioned and continue blocking the body till ready to seal and paint. Thank you for your time
@@jamespowers8142 Yeah most use polyester primer you should be fine doing that
I appreciate this video very much. I am starting a 1970 Tempest and will be doing the bodywork and paint myself. I am not a stranger to this, but it's been awhile. Most of my involvement was with motorcycles. Thank you very much! I'll be watching more videos, for sure!
Thank you
Your taking chances with pencil lead as well. Using it in body work, it's a graphite lubricant powder that's being scratched off the pencil lead on to the surface your drawing on. It has no chemical fusion bond with paint, and lack of adhesion if you don't sand it all the way off. Your creating issues with top coats not adhering to the physical pencil line, as well it's creating a barrier to what's below the line...
@@gary24752 your working on it with your eyeballs, your identifying it with your eyeballs, then why not fill it with your eye balls, why does it have to be identified with any physical mark, your working it start to finish anyway why bring contamination into the mix period. Anything other than paint and fillers, should not hit the surface period by rights. Graphite, markers, dust, grease pencils, hand oils their all contaminates even paints are contaminantes if you spray on top to heavy, and then you have separtion and bleed to a certain point. Flashing is where all this is controlled and skills of an individual laying paint ! They chemically bond through fusion that's the reason for using two part compounds to control bleed through from curing processes that require a mechanical bound vs chemical solvent fusion bonds. Your good I just had a problem with graphite being used. I'm sure you guys turn out great results. Graphite is real detrimental to extreme hot areas of jet engines it causes cracks to develope right along a line that's drawn everytime. It embeds into pores in metal through heat expansion and cold contraction cycles until the metal separates creating cracks. But unrelated to what your doing but it does concentrate heat.
Per the manufacturer of the filler do not use a graphite pencil as it will contaminate the surface. They said to use a sharpy.
I will sometimes use simply a piece of tape where a hidden low is in my mud.....very easy just to remove real quick and mud.
great video, no stupid music, no bs...just straight to the point !
Great vid! Answered some more questions we had. Loved that ending! 🤘🏼
🤣🤣🤣🤣 damn jack!!!
I like the pencil idea, so I tried it and it works thank you. I've never tried to go this far with body work so I'm giving it my best shot. Thank you
Awesome very glad to hear!!
I used to use an old body file while the filler was still soft. I found it gave a much better finish than a cheese grater file. I did a lot of file finish when I was an apprentice back in the early 70`s as I did my time for a Jag dealership, and you needed a good reason to use filler. (bog, nickie) as it was locked up in the cupboard.
I've been doing body work for 50 years and I still learned things from this video.
Very glad to hear!! Thank you we’re all still learning 🙌🏻
I love the detailedness of the action. When sailing catamarans, it took me ages to understand that it is all about minute changes in how you do something. When you do it right, then all is no problem, all is easy, when you do it wrong, you are bound for disaster and capsize.
E.g. how you sit, so that you can move instantly, that you always have the mainsheet in your hand to be always able to react.
Same here, with the right tools, adjusted correctly, the right movements, good checkpoints that all works out.
Importtant is for all of us to watch out what we are doing, when it works out better and when not, and find out why. My experience is that as soon as I understood what was going on, what I did, then surprisingly my body very quickly does it almost on its own.
Well said 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks for reading my babble.
To come back to cars, my after-midlive-crisis toy is an Opel(Vauxhall) Calibra, V6 24V, 170 hp, red, 30 years old, 85,000 miles.
Not yet needing your body filler methods - it got a body built in Finland, that rust way less than the german builds.
And as a summer sunny weather car he will hopefully last quite a while longer.
It was the lowest drag car of its time and still is - 24 mpg for 170 hp and 147 mph top speed is not that bad.
Maybe have a look in the internet, GM (Opel is the german branch of GM) never bothered to import/build it in the US.
I think it is one of the cleanest cars with the most consequential lines ever built. You can call it boring - for me it is elegant.
In the US, it would be one of the rarest cars ever...
No matter how many times I REwatch your videos, I learn something new each time. Thx for sharing 💪👊
Love it!!! That’s the goal learn something then go try it realize there’s more to it go through the struggle and rewatch it …… over and over till you perfect it
I am a car sprayer and I can tell this is the most informative video about filler on RUclips. I came here because kindy forgot the filler game I was spraying on the construction site scratches or domestic uPVC with don't need to know how to do big panel filler with is a completely different skill putting a small amount of filler mostly 1k filler big ass panel require true skill with takes time. WHAT BRAND AND SIZE YOU HAVE SPREADERS I NEVER SEEN BIG LIKE THIS BUT I LIKE THEY GOT NOT SHARP EGDE?
They are made by coster they sell all different sizes. 👍🏻
Two things I learned, top notch work takes patience and knowledge, also that there is always a floor jack where it shouldn't be.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 always!! Damn floor jack
What a wonderful teacher. I have blocked back to bare metal more than once, never knew about the pencil idea.
Hope it helps ya!
Amazing video!!!! Your an amazing and patient teacher. Not like all those other videos that skips steps just to make a video and get likes. I learned more in this hour then i did for a year on the job lol. Wish I had an amazing teacher like you to learn from on the floor. Great job. Looking forward to seeing ALL your vids!!!!!
Thank you very much for the kind words
You are the best! No kidding. Not only do you take everything into consideration, but you have a talent of explanation.
Maybe we have been over this before, but I’m old and forget things.
I’m restoring my 1968 Southbend heavy 10L lathe. Cast iron with lots of pits and sheet metal in the stand.
I’m thinking of sanding to bare metal, then two part epoxy primer (Eastwood aerosol). Let cure and scuff with 80 grit. Then use body fill and sand. Afterwards, maybe another layer of epoxy primer. Scuff and then use a 2k high fill primer (Eastwood aerosol).
Then a top coat. But I don’t know what to use. Acrylic enamel? Maybe go to Sherwin Williams and get a quart made with the color I want. Then followed by a 2k clear top coat.
Can you do me a favor and tell me what steps you would use and what products? I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Paul
A spray can epoxy is not going to fill in the pits. If you use vp2050 it will. Or if you don’t care spray epoxy after it flashes paint it
Wow! This is, by far, the best video that I have ever seen on filler and the process of leveling. Very easy to follow along and understand. I learned a bunch here today. Great teaching skills. Thank you for sharing your time, talent and knowledge. I am now sub'd and following. 😎👍
Thank you very much!
Also if u mix too much harder be careful for plastic clean up,not to put in trash with paper, can start a fire when gone home etc, fiberglass is bad too, love your detail explanation
Thank you
Awesome video thanks for sharing this with us I done body work for my self and learned that you sand it before it turns to concrete but didn't know to sand the guide coat out of the low spots before adding filler now I know to do so I used the pencil teckneek and I also need to get one of those long boards for sanding thanks again for an awesome video
Thank you very much we’re glad you like them!
Nice job I don’t have a 55 Chevy but do have a 1971 nova. I really liked your presentation
Fun is fun right👍
Excellent presentation and very informative. We especially like a monument of good teaching which demonstrates details in a repetition without hesitation that only know-how makes possible and which thanks to the naturalness thus acquired by Sylvester allows us to acquire the best possible understanding of this technique.
Excellent attitude Sylvester you are the best. Cheers from Genenva Switzerland
Thank you kindly!
A TRUE Master.. Beautifully detailed in explanation and valued outcome.. Your presentation covered the most important.."the WHY". Hugely appreciated.. Thank you
Thank you very much
First time doing body work and now i know why i was chasing my tail on 2 similar sized spots. Wasted about a gallon of bondo then i picked up some acrylic blocks and worked it all down flatter and thinner to where it all shoulve been all along. Then i guied coated the whole bed and found all the inconsistancies my disk sander left.
Awesome 👌🏻👍🏻
I have learned more watching your videos than any others. Very detailed. Love it!
Thank you very much!
Best video ever.I really enjoyed and learned from it.I would attend one of his classes. Absolutely. Thanks for your video. Keep them coming.
Thank you very much.
Love your attention to detail which is the difference between “good” and “great”. Thank you.
Appreciate it, Thanks for watching!
Your learn how to block lessons are in depth I was always trying to look for someone in you tube in depth blocking you explain well thank you my friend stay safe
Will do, thank you for watching. Many more videos to come.
I am a plasterer and I can relate to keeping your material clean and keep any foreign or material from a former batch out of the material you are working with and also to throw out and clean up tools before the material is starting to set up,I have a 73 charger that has a lot of body work and I am going to try and tackle it my self. I hope I don't have to use much body filler but I realize that it will need a skim coat on the whole car because I have to remove all the paint
💯💯💯
Great video, it's been almost 30 years since paint and body school & it's been about 10 years since my last car I restored. I'm getting ready pretty soon to do a drag car I'm building and I'm glad I found your videos, I needed the reminders on a lot of this stuff.
Thank you.
The car is a 70 dart by the way, a lot of straight lines and it's a tough car to get right.
Those are a challenge we just did a 69 couple years ago. Watch the video on body lines a tape measure works killer on the darts
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you I definitely will.
Very good video, patience, patience, patience... the foundation is just that, a foundation. I loved this.Thx.
Thank you!
I train professional painters for shipyards, this is top notch training. Thanks!!
Thank you!
Excellent video - I've lost count of the number of things I've done wrong - can't wait to start another respray !! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!